Citation
Captain Cook's three voyages round the world

Material Information

Title:
Captain Cook's three voyages round the world with a sketch of his life
Cover title:
Captain Cook's voyages
Creator:
Low, Charles Rathbone, 1837-1918 ( Editor )
George Routledge and Sons ( Publisher )
S. Cowan and Co. ( printer )
Place of Publication:
London ;
Manchester ;
New York
Publisher:
George Routledge and Sons
Manufacturer:
Cowan & Co.
Publication Date:
Language:
English
Edition:
New ed.
Physical Description:
512 p., [12] leaves of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 20 cm.

Subjects

Subjects / Keywords:
Adventure and adventurers -- Juvenile literature ( lcsh )
Ship captains -- Juvenile literature ( lcsh )
Seafaring life -- Juvenile literature ( lcsh )
Voyages around the world -- Juvenile literature ( lcsh )
Voyages and travels -- Juvenile literature ( lcsh )
Discovery and exploration -- Juvenile literature -- Oceania ( lcsh )
Publishers' catalogues -- 1895 ( rbgenr )
Biographies -- 1895 ( rbgenr )
Bldn -- 1895
Genre:
Publishers' catalogues ( rbgenr )
Biographies ( rbgenr )
individual biography ( marcgt )
Spatial Coverage:
England -- London
England -- Manchester
United States -- New York -- New York
England -- Perth
Target Audience:
juvenile ( marctarget )

Notes

Statement of Responsibility:
edited by Charles R. Low ; with twelve plates in colours from designs by Gordon Browne and twenty-eight illustrations.

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University of Florida
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This item is presumed to be in the public domain. The University of Florida George A. Smathers Libraries respect the intellectual property rights of others and do not claim any copyright interest in this item. Users of this work have responsibility for determining copyright status prior to reusing, publishing or reproducing this item for purposes other than what is allowed by fair use or other copyright exemptions. Any reuse of this item in excess of fair use or other copyright exemptions may require permission of the copyright holder. The Smathers Libraries would like to learn more about this item and invite individuals or organizations to contact The Department of Special and Area Studies Collections (special@uflib.ufl.edu) with any additional information they can provide.
Resource Identifier:
002391240 ( ALEPH )
ALZ6129 ( NOTIS )
12932074 ( OCLC )

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CAPTAIN COOK’S
THREE VOYAGES ROUND THE
WORLD







CAPTAIN COOK’S

THREE VOYAGES ROUND
THE WORLD

WITH A SKETCH OF HIS LIFE

EDITED BY

LIEUTENANT CHARLES R. LOW

(Late) H.M. Indian Navy, Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, and
Member of the Royal United Service Institution

A NEW EDITION

WITH TWELVE PLATES IN COLOURS FROM DESIGNS BY GORDON BROWNE,
; “AND
TWENTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, LIMITED
BROADWAY, LUDGATE HILL
MANCHESTER AND. NEW YORK
1895



CAPTAIN COOK’S
THREE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD.



INTRODUCTION.

Amonc the most remarkable voyages of discovery of which we
have record, those made by the celebrated Captain Cook hold in
popular estimation, and deservedly so, the first place. This is
due as much to the magnitude and importance of his discoveries
as to the interest of the incidents he details; the graphic and
accurate, yet simple, descriptions of the people and places he
visited ; and the sad fate that ultimately overtook him, which has
cast around his name a halo of romantic interest as one of the
martyrs of scientific exploration.

James Cook was born in November, 1728, at Marton, in
Cleveland, near Great Ayton, in Yorkshire. He was of. humble
parentage, and, when only two years of age, his father, who was
a day labourer to a farmer, removed to Great Ayton, where he
was employed in the same capacity by Mr. Thomas Scottowe,

At first young Cook assisted his father in the different branches
of husbandry, but, at thirteen, was placed under the care of Mr.
Pullen, the village schoolmaster at Ayton, where he learned
arithmetic and. book-keeping, and is said to have displayed a
remarkable aptitude for figures.

About January, 1745, when James Cook was seventeen years
of age, his father bound him apprentice to learn the grocery and



6 COOK’S VOYAGES.

haberdashery business, at Snaith, about ten miles from Whitby ;
but after a year and a half’s servitude, having contracted a strong
predilection for the sea, his master was willing to indulge him in
following the bent of his inclination, and agreed to cancel the
indentures. Accordingly, in July, 1746, the future circum-
navigator was bound apprentice to Mr. J. Walker, of Whitby, for
the term of three years, which he served to the full satisfaction of
his employer. He first sailed on board the Sreelove, chiefly
employed in the coal trade between Newcastle and London ; and
in May, 1748, was employed in assisting to rig and fit out for sea
the Three Brothers, a ship of 300 tons, thus acquiring that
intimate knowledge of the rigger’s art which forms so important
an element in the education of a sailor. After performing two
coaling voyages in this ship, she was chartered by the Govern-
ment as a transport, and conveyed troops to Dublin, thence em-
barking other soldiers to Liverpool. Cook continued to serve in
her, in the Norway trade, until the expiration of his apprentice-
ship, and, in the spring of 1750, we find him shipping as a seaman
on board the Maria, under the command of Captain Gaskin; in
her he performed some voyages in the Baltic trade. In 1752,
Mr. Walker, of Whitby, was glad to avail himself of his services
as mate of one of his ships, called the Friendship, and he gave so
much satisfaction to the owner that, it is said, he was offered the
post of master of the vessel, which, however, he declined. Hence-
forth his services were devoted to his country.

In the spring of 1755, hostilities broke out between this country
and France, and strenuous efforts were made to man the ships of
war. As press-warrants had been issued, Mr. Cook, whose ship
then lay in the Thames, afraid of being pressed, at first resolved
to conceal himself ; but afterwards, reflecting on the difficulties of
doing so, he adopted the resolution of entering the navy as a
volunteer, “having a mind,” as he expressed himself, “to try his
fortune that way.” In pursuance of this design he repaired to a
house of rendezvous in Wapping, and entered on board the Eagle,
of 60 guns, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer ; on the
appointment, in the following October, of Captain (afterwards Sir
Hugh) Palliser to the command of this ship, Cook’s diligence and
attention to the duties of his profession, although in the humble



INTRODUCTION. . 7



capacity of a foremast hand, attracted the notice of that discern-
ing and intelligent commander, and he afforded him every en-
couragement. Cook’s meritorious conduct also came to the ears
of his friends in his native county, and representations were made
to his captain by the Member for Scarborough, which resulted in
his being recommended for a master’s warrant on board one of
His Majesty’s ships. After some delay he was appointed master
of the Mercury, and proceeded in her to North America, and was
of signal service during the reduction of Quebec by the combined
military and naval expedition under General Wolfe and Admiral
Sir Charles Saunders ; as is well known, the chief credit of that
famous exploit fell to the lot of the sister service, which covered
itself with glory, though at the sad cost of the loss of Wolfe, whose
death dimmed the lustre of even so great a victory.

At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his
charge the execution of services of the first importance in the
naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Mont-
morency, conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham,
and examined the passage, and laid buoys for the security of the
large ships in proceeding up the river. He was employed for
several nights taking soundings opposite the French camp at
Montmorency, until at length he was discovered by the enemy,
who sent a number of canoes, filled with Indians, to surround
him ; and he narrowly escaped capture by pulling for the Isle of
Orleans, the Indians seizing the stern of his boat as he sprang
ashore. The courage and address with which he acquitted him-
self in these services, and the admirable completeness of the plan
of the channel and its soundings, which he furnished to the ad-
miral, gained him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders
and his successor, Lord Colville, who continued his zealous
patrons during the remainder of their lives.

After the conquest of Canada, Mr. Cook was appointed, on
the 2nd of September, 1759, master of the orthumberland, bear-
ing the broad pennant of Lord Colville, which lay, during the
ensuing winter, at Halifax. But Cook, whose chief anxiety was
to rise in his profession, resolved to qualify himself for promotion,
and counteract the deficiencies of his early education by applica-
tion to those sciences and branches of knowledge which are



8 ‘ COOK’S VOYAGES.



essential to success. Inspired by this noble ambition, instead of
devoting his spare time to amusements, he was engaged in im-
proving his mind. During the hard winter of 1759 he first read
Euclid, and applied himself to the study of mathematics and
astronomy, without any other assistance than was afforded him by
a few books and his own industry.

Mr. Cook’s commission as lieutenant was dated the 1st of
April, 1760. In September, 1762, we find him assisting at the
recapture of Newfoundland ; and subsequently, while the British
fleet lay at Placentia, he was engaged surveying the heights and
harbour in order that it might be put into a state of defence, a
task which he performed with such marked ability, as to attract
the favourable notice of the Governor of Newfoundland, Captain
(afterwards Admiral) Graves. Towards the close of the year,
Lieutenant Cook returned to England, and, on the 21st of
December, was married at Barking to Miss Batts, whose god-
father he was said to have been, although, it should be added,
there was only a difference of fourteen years in their ages. For
this lady, by whom he had six children, he entertained a tender af-
fection through life ; but, like all great seamen, he placed the requir-
ments of the public service before his personal predilections, and was
ever ready at the call of duty to resign the solace of her society for
years. In 1763 Lieut. Cook accompanied Captain Graves when he
went out for the second time as Governor of Newfoundland, and he
carried out a survey of its coasts, as well as of the islands of
Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded to this country by
France in the treaty of peace. He again returned to England,
but, early in the following year, accompanied his former captain,
Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been appointed Governor of New-
foundland and Labrador, and continued the prosecution of his
surveys of those coasts and of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. His
charts were considered admirable and most trustworthy, while he
did not confine his labours to marine surveying alone, but ex-
plored the interior of Newfoundland. In 1765 he was with Sir
William Burnaby on the Jamaica station ; he was employed by
the Admiral in carrying despatches to the Governor of Yucatan,
relative to the wood-cutters in the Bay of Honduras, and a record
of this mission, which he performed in an eminently satisfactory



INTRODUCTION. 9



manner, was published in 1769. Returning to Newfoundland, he
observed an eclipse of the sun on August 5th, 1766, an account
of which appears in the seventh volume of the Philosophical
Transactions of the Royal Society.

Lieutenant Cook returned to England, in 1767, when much in-
terest was felt by the astronomical and scientific world at the ap-
proaching transit of Venus over the sun’s disc in 1769. Acting
on the advice of Captain Wallis, who had just returned from his
voyage round the world, it was decided that Otaheite, in the
Society Islands, would be the most convenient spot for carrying
out the observations ; and, after some delay, Lieutenant Cook
was selected to command the expedition, which was fitted out
under the auspices of the Royal Society and the patronage of his
Majesty King George the Third and the Board of Admiralty,
whose instructions to him embraced the prosecution of discoveries
in those seas, which had been already partially explored by our
countrymen, Captains Wallis, Carteret, and Byron. These
officers, by their discoveries, had greatly contributed towards in-
creasing our knowledge of the islands in Polynesia ; but how far
the Pacific Ocean extended to the west, by what lands it was
bounded on that side, and the connection of those lands with
former discoveries, remained unknown until Cook, on his return
from his first voyage, brought back a solution of these points.

After Lieutenant Cook’s return from his first voyage, he was
promoted to Commander on the 19th August, 1771; and on the
gth of August, 1775, ten days after his arrival in England from
his second voyage, he was raised to the rank of Post-Captain in
the Royal Navy.

For the species of enterprise on which he was engaged during
these years, Captain Cook appears to have been eminently
qualified. The earliest habits of his life, the course of his
service, and the constant application of his mind, all conspired to
fit him for it, and gave him a degree of professional knowledge
which few officers had then or have since attained.

His frame and constitution were robust, inured to labour and
capable of undergoing the severest hardships. When necessity
required it, he could submit, uncomplainingly, to the coarsest and
most unpalatable food; and, indeed, temperance in him was



10 COOK’S VOYAGES.

scarcely a virtue, so great was the indifference with which he sub-
mitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his mind
were of the same hardy, vigorous kind as those of his body. His
understanding was strong and_ perspicuous ; his judgment,
especially in professional matters, quick and sure. His designs
were bold, and, both in the conception and in the mode of
execution, bore evident marks of original genius. His courage
was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable
presence of mind in the moment of danger. His manners were
plain and unaffected ; his temper, it was said, was open to blame
on the score of hastiness and passion, but on the other hand he
was generous, benevolent, and humane.

Such was the outline of Captain Cook’s character; but its
most distinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance in
the pursuit of his object, which was superior to the opposition of
dangers, difficulties, and hardships. During the long and tedious
voyages in which he was engaged, his eagerness and activity were
never in the least abated. No incidental temptations could de-
tain him for a moment; even those intervals of recreation which
sometimes unavoidably occurred, were submitted to by him with
a certain impatience whenever they could not be employed in
making further provision for the more effectual prosecution of his
designs. It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in
which these qualities were displayed, as his whole life bore wit-
ness that he was the possessor of them ; but we will briefly state
the results of the great and important enterprises in which he was
engaged.

Perhaps no man ever made greater additions to our knowledge
of the twin sciences of geography and navigation than Captain
Cook. In his first voyage to the South Seas he discovered the
Society Islands ; determined the insularity of New Zealand ; dis-
covered the straits called after his name, which separate the two
islands, and made a complete survey of both.

With wonderful skill and perseverance, amidst perplexities,
difficulties, and dangers, he explored the eastern coast of Australia,
hitherto unknown, for an extent of twenty-seven degrees of lati-
tude, or upwards of 2,000 miles.

In his second expedition he traversed the southern hemisphere,



INTRODUCTION. II



between the fortieth and sixty-seventh degrees of latitude, having
sailed nearer to the South Pole than any previous navigator ; and
it was not until 1823, just fifty years later, that Weddell penetrated
214 miles further south, though it was reserved for the late Sir
James Clark Ross, in his memorable voyage in 1841, in Her
Majesty’s ships Hrebus and Terror—the same that carried Franklin
and his associates on their-last voyage—to prove the existence of
an antarctic continent, 450 miles in length, in 78° 4’.

During this voyage Captain Cook discovered New Caledonia,
one of the largest islands in the South Pacific, the island of
Georgia, and other islands, besides settling the situations of the
old and making several new discoveries.

But the third and last voyage was distinguished above the
others by the extent and importance of its results. Although he
had richly earned repose by reason of his great services in the
two former voyages, Cook voluntarily quitted the comfortable
quarters he had been allotted in Greenwich Hospital by the
bounty of the King, and once more embarked on the dangers
inseparable from the navigation of unknown seas, the dealing
with savage races, and the search for the mysterious .“ north-west
passage,” which had baffled so many of our most experienced
navigators, and which, seventy years later, was destined to engulf
the great Franklin and upwards of 100 gallant officers and seamen
at the moment when the secret was yielded up to their energetic
research.

Besides several smaller islands in the South Pacific, he dis-
covered, to the north of the equinoctial line, the group called the
Sandwich Islands, which, from their situation and productions,
have attained a position of importance not yet assumed by other
groups in Polynesia. He afterwards explored what had hitherto
remained unknown of the western coast of America, from the
latitude of 43° to 702 44’ north, containing an extent of 3,500

1 Strictly speaking, Cook was engaged in discovering the ‘‘ north-east ”
passage, from which point he attacked the great problem of Arctic navigation.
On this side Captain Beechey reached as far as 71° 25’, by which means a space
of about 150 miles only remained unexplored between Point Barrow, the N.E.
point reached by Captain Beechey, and Point Beechey, the N.W. limit of Sir

John Franklin’s land expeditions from the mouth of McKenzie’s River. This
interval was surmounted by the late Sir Robert McClure.



12 COOK’S VOYAGES.

miles, ascertained the proximity of the two great continents of
Asia and America, passed the straits between them, and surveyed
a considerable extent of coast on each side; and it was not until
1826 that Captain Beechey passed Cook’s farthest, and again,
many years later, Sir Robert McClure and Sir Richard Collinson.

But Cook was destined never to return to England, and, on
the 14th of February, 1779, on the shores of an island he had
given to the civilised world, this great mariner perished by the
daggers of a horde of savages whom it had been his utmost
endeavour to conciliate by kind and friendly treatment.

Those who are conversant with naval history need not be told
at how dear a rate the scientific advantages which are sought to
be attained through the medium of long voyages at sea have
always been purchased. Scurvy, that dreadful disorder which
is peculiar to this service, and whose ravages have marked the
tracks of discoverers, as witness the records of the voyages of
Lord Anson and other navigators, must have proved an insuper-
able obstacle to the prosecution of such enterprises, unless the
preservation of the lives of our seamen were deemed a matter of
no moment. It was reserved for Captain Cook to show the
world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be protracted to the
unusual length of three or even four years, in unknown regions,
and under every change and rigour of climate, not only without
affecting the health, but even without diminishing the probability
of life in the smallest degree. The method he pursued was fully
explained by himself in a paper which was read before the Royal
Society, in the year 1776, a few months after he quitted England
on his last voyage, on which occasion Sir Godfrey Copley’s gold
medal was awarded him ; and he also noted in his journal, up to
the time of his death, whatever improvements were suggested by
experience.

With respect to his professional abilities, Captain King, his
able lieutenant, well observes, “I shall leave them to the judg-
ment of those who are best acquainted with the nature of the
services in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge
that to have conducted three expeditions of so much danger and
difficulty, of so unusual a length, and in such a variety of situation,
with uniform and invariable success, must have required not only



INTRODUCTION. 3



a thorough and accurate knowledge of his business, but a power-
ful and comprehensive genius, fruitful in resources, and equally
ready in the application of whatever the higher and inferior calls
of the service required.”

Owing to the great care taken by Captain Cook of his men, and
the sanitary precautions he adopted, his voyages were distin-
guished among those of the century for the small loss incurred in
their prosecution. But the last was destined to be fatal to many
of the officers who sailed in the two ships, the Resolution and Dis-
covery. In addition to Captain Cook, killed on the rath of
February, 1779, Captain Clerke, who succeeded to the chief com-
mand, succumbed, at the age. of thirty-eight, to consumption,
from which he had suffered before he left England, on the 22nd
of August in the same year ; and Captain King, the accomplished
historian of the voyage after the death of Cook, died, at Nice, in
the autumn of 1784, of disease caused by the hardships and
vicissitudes of climate to which he had been exposed. King
George the Third was not forgetful of the services of his great
subject, whose discoveries shed no less glory on his reign than the
victories by sea and land, which we Englishmen regard with so
much pride and satisfaction. He settled a pension of £25 per
annum on each of the three surviving sons of the great circum-
navigator, and a pension of £200 a year on the widow.

This lady had soon cause to deplore the loss, in their country’s
service, of others only less dear to her than her gallant and
lamented husband. In October, 1780, the month when, by the
return of the Resolution and Discovery, Mrs. Cook was first made
aware of the irreparable loss she had sustained, her second son,
Nathaniel, sixteen years of age, was lost on board the Thunderer
man-of-war, which foundered in a gale of wind. The youngest
son, Hugh, a student at Christ’s College, Cambridge, died of
fever at the early age of seventeen, on the 21st of December, 1793 ;
and, on the 25th of January in the following year, the eldest son,
aged thirty-one, who bore his father’s name, and commanded the
Spitfire sloop-of-war, was driven to sea while attempting to board
his ship off Poole in a heavy gale, and perished, together with
the boat’s crew. His body was afterwards recovered, and con-
veyed to Spithead on board his own ship, whence it was removed to



14 COOK’S VOYAGES.

Cambridge, and buried by the side of his youngest brother, whose
funeral he had attended only six weeks before. Mrs. Cook was
herself brought to the brink of the grave by these accumulated
bereavements, but she recovered her health, and lived to the
extraordinary age of ninety-three, having survived her husband
fifty-six years. She died on the 13th of May, 1835, at her resid-
ence at.Clapham, to the poor of which she left a charitable be-
quest, and was buried in the middle aisle of St. Andrew’s the Great,
Cambridge, by the side of her two sons. Within the communion
rail of that church is a tablet, having an appropriate design de-
scriptive of naval discovery sculptured at the top, and below, a
shield, the device of a globe and a star, with the motto,
‘* Nil intentatum reliquit.”

On the tablet is the following inscription to the memory of
Captain Cook :—

IN MEMORY OF
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,
Of the Royal Navy,
One of the most Celebrated Navigators that this or former ages can boast of ;
Who was killed by the natives of Owyhee in the Pacific Ocean,
On the 14th day of February, 1779, in the fifty-first year of his age.

In continuation of the above, is an inscription to his widow
and their sons, with the names and ages of three children who
died in infancy; and, on the slab in the middle aisle, beneath
which lie Mrs. Cook and her sons, is a brief record of their names
and ages at the date of decease.

But though it is a meet and proper thing that this country,
even by a cenotaph, should record its sense of the services and
devotion to duty of one of the noblest of its sons, yet more in-
terest attaches to the memorials that have been raised to our
great countryman on the scene of his labours and of his death.
Until within the past year, however, no suitable monument to the
memory of Captain Cook had been raised in the Sandwich
Island, though this remissness did not extend to the officers of
the Royal Navy, who have ever been proud of numbering the
name of James.Cook among the most distinguished in the long
roll of naval worthies. About 100 yards from the beach, where
he was so cruelly murdered, stands a portion of the trunk of a



INTRODUCTION. 15



cocoa-nut tree, set in a bed of loose stones and broken lava, and
bearing four plates of copper, upon which appear the following
inscriptions, rudely stamped, apparently with a punch. On
the largest of these, the following is the only portion that is now
decipherable :—-
‘“‘ This bay was visited by Her Majesty’s ship Carrysford, Right Honourable
Lord George Paulet.”
A second plate bears the following inscription :—
‘*This tree having fallen, was replaced on this spot by Her Majesty’s steam

vessel Cormorant, G. T. Gordon, Esq., Captain, which visited this spot, May
18, 1846.”

The third plate has the following inscription :—

“ This sheet and capping were put on by the Sparrow Hawk, September 16,
1839, in order to preserve this monument to the memory of Cook. Give this
a coat of tar.”

On the fourth plate the following may be deciphered :—

“Near this spot fell Captain James Cook, R.N., the renowned navigator,
who discovered this island 4.D. 1778 His Majesty’s ship, Zmogene, October
17th, 1837.”

Yet another rude memorial, supposed to be by the officers of
the Blonde, attests the estimation in which the name of Cook is
held by the Navy. About a mile from the bay, and at an
elevation of some 500 feet above the level of the sea, is a post,
about ten feet in height, set in rude blocks of lava, enclosed
within a wall of the same material, and bearing the following in-
scription upon a plate of copper :—

IN THE MEMORY OF
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N.,
Who discovered this island A.D. 1778,
This humble monument is erected by his fellow-countrymen, A.D. 1825.

These memorials to Cook displayed a just appreciation on the
part of our naval officers, but the means at their disposal were
limited ; and it was not until 1874 that a suitable monument was
erected to his memory. The “Honolulu Gazette,” of the 25th
of November of that year, records the circumstances under which
this was effected. The chief credit is due to Mr. Wodehouse,
the British Commissioner, who obtained the co-operation of the
Hawaiian Government, and Captain Cator, of Her Majesty’s ship



16 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Scout, who conveyed the architect and men and materials to the
spot in Karakakooa Bay where Captain Cook fell.

The monument is a plain obelisk, standing on a square base,
the whole being 27 feet in height, and constructed throughout of
a concrete composed of carefully screened pebbles and cement.

t stands on a level platform of lava, only a few feet distant
from and above high-water mark, and fifteen or twenty yards
from the stone or lava slab on which the great seaman stood
when struck down. ‘The site is the gift of the native Princess Like-
like, and the expense of the erection is partly borne by sub-
scribers in England, among whom are Admiral Richards, late
Hydrographer at the Admiralty, several officers who served under
him when he commanded H.M.S. Hecate, on this station, and
Lady Franklin, who it was natural should feel a peculiar interest
in one who, like her great husband, at the call of duty, left a
competence, a loving wife, and admiring friends, to perish in the
prosecution of nautical exploration.

On the seaward base of the obelisk is deeply cut the following
inscription :—

IN MEMORY OF THE GREAT CIRCUMNAVIGATOR
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N.,

Who discovered these islands on the 18th of January, 1778, and fell near
this spot on the 14th of February, 1779.

This monument was erected in November, A.D. 1874,
By some of his fellow-countrymen.

The unveiling of the monument, which will be surrounded by
a fence or railing, took place on the 14th of November, 1874, in
presence of Mr. Wodehouse, Mr. Lischman, the architect, Captain
Cator and the officers of the Scout, and many foreign and native
visitors and residents.

But no monument is needed to the fame of the discoverer of
the Sandwich group, of New Caledonia, of Georgia, and other in-
ferior islands ; the explorer of the unknown coasts of New Zea-
land, of Australia, and of the West Coast of America as far as Icy
Cape. Among the names most cherished by his countrymen, is
that of the greatest navigator of all time, Captain James Cook,
whose unassuming, genuine character obtained for him the
honourable title of “ Orbis investigator acerrimus.”



THE FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK.

Durinc the past year the governments and scientific men of all
civilised nations were vying with each other as to which should
contribute most to the observation of one of the rarest and most
interesting of astronomical phenomena. Numberless expeditions
were organised under the auspices, and at the expense, of govern-
ments, learned societies, and munificent private individuals, and
were despatched to some of the most remote and inaccessible
spots and islands on the face of the globe, for the purpose of ob-
serving the transit of Venus over the sun’s disc.

Much more humble were the efforts made a century ago to
observe the same phenomenon, though it was the furthering of
this scientific end that brought before the world ‘the name of that
great man, whose memory his countrymen will not willingly per-
mit to die; and, indeed, of few, if any, of our worthies, have so
many biographical sketches been written, while the narrative
of his voyages has been edited by numerous hands, and never so
well as when the original text of Captains Cook and King has
been most closely adhered to. This course we have adopted,
abbreviating freely, and, where necessary, throwing into modern
language the somewhat antiquated phraseology of the early
editions.

Calculations having been made that the planet Venus would pass
over the sun’s disc in 1769, the Royal Society, under the patron-
age of King George the Third, presented a memorial to Govern-
ment, requesting that a vessel might be fitted out to convey proper
persons to observe the transit, either in the Marquesas or Friendly
Islands, though, on the recommendation of Captain Wallis, who
at this time returned from his voyage round the world, it was
ultimately decided that the observers should proceed instead to
Otaheite, in the Society Islands. Accordingly, Sir Hugh Palliser,

B



18 COOK’S VOYAGES.

a captain in the Royal Navy, under whom Cook had served on
board the Eagle, of 60 guns, was commissioned to provide a
proper vessel; and after examining a great number, fixed on the
Endeavour, a vessel of 370 tons, which had been built for the
coal trade. Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, having
recommended Mr. Cook, and this recommendation being
strengthened by the testimony of Sir Hugh Palliser, he was ap-
pointed to the distinguished post of Commander of the expe-
dition by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, and
promoted to the rank of Lieutenant in the Royal Navy, on the
2sth of May, 1768, being then nearly 40 years of age. Mr.
Charles Green, the coadjutor of Mr. Bradley, the Astronomer
Royal, was nominated to assist him in the astronomical part of
the undertaking ; he was also accompanied by Mr. (afterwards Sir
Joseph) Banks, President of the Royal Society, who took with
him two draughtsmen, and had likewise a secretary and four
servants. Dr. Solander, an ingenious and learned Swede, who
held a place in the British Museum, and was an adept in natural
history and philosophy, also joined the expedition. The comple-
ment of the Endeavour consisted of eighty-four persons. She was
victualled for eighteen months, and ten carriage and twelve swivel
guns, with abundance of ammunition, and all manner of stores,
were taken on board. Her principal officers were :—Lieutenants
Hicks and Gore; Mr. Molineux, master, who died the 15th of
April, 1771, and was succeeded by Mr. Pickersgill; Mr. Charles
Clerke, mate; Mr. Monkhouse, surgeon, who died the 5th of
November, 1770, and was succeeded by Mr. Perry,

Captain Cook sailed from Deptford on the 30th of July, 1768,
and on the 18th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound, from
which, in a few days, he proceeded to sea. On the 2nd of
September they made the first land after leaving the Channel, and
on the 13th arrived at Madeira, where they unfortunately lost
Mr. Weir, the master’s mate, who fell overboard and was drowned.
They left Madeira on the roth of September, and on the 23rd
sighted the Peak of Teneriffe, which, from its great elevation, is
visible a vast distance at sea. On the 29th, Bona Vista, one of
the Cape de Verd islands, was passed, and on October the 25th.
they crossed the line with the usual ceremonies. Provisions





THE FIRST VOVAGE. 19



falling short, it was determined to put into Rio Janeiro, where

mh ,, they arrived on the 13th of November, and having procured the

necessary supplies, weighed anchor on the 8th December. On
the 22nd they were surrounded by a great number of porpoises,

lee sof a singular species, about 15 feet in length, and of an ash

colour. On the following day they observed an eclipse of the
moon; and at seven o’clock in the morning a small white cloud
appeared in the west, from which a train of fire issued, followed
by a distinct explosion, when the cloud disappeared. The year

‘1768 closed without any noteworthy incident.

On the 4th of January, 1769,.they saw an appearance of land,

aA which they mistook for Pepy’s Island, and bore away for it; but

it proved one of those deceptions which sailors call a “ fog bank.”
On the 14th they entered the straits of Le Maire, but were driven
out again with great violence, the tide being against them. At
length they got anchorage at the entrance of a little cove, which
Captain Cook called St. Vincent’s Bay. Dr. Solander and Mr.
Banks went on shore, and returned about nine in the evening
with upwards of a hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto
unnoticed by European botanists.

On Sunday, the r5th, they came to anchor off this part of
Terra_del_Fuego, in twelve fathoms of water, upon coral rocks,
before a small cove, at a distance of about a mile from the shore.
Two of the natives came down upon the beach, as if they ex-
pected the strangers would land; but as there was no shelter, the
ship got under weigh again and the natives retired. The same
afternoon they came to an anchor in the Bay of Good Success.
The captain went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander, to search for a watering-place and confer with the
natives. These gentlemen proceeded above a too yards in ad-
vance of Captain Cook, when two of the natives who had seated
themselves, rose up, and, as a token of amity, threw away a small
stick or boomerang which they had in their hands. They after-
wards returned to their companions, who had remained some
distance behind, and made signs to their guests to advance.
' They received the Englishmen in a friendly manner, and in return
for their civility, some buttons and beads were distributed among
them. Thus confidence was established, and the rest of the



20 COOK’S VOYAGES.

English party joined and conversed with them in an amicable
manner. Captain Cook and his friends took three of the natives
to the ship, clothed them, and gave them provisions, part of
which they carried on shore. They, however, refused to drink
rum or brandy, after tasting it, intimating by signs that it burned
their throats. None of these people exceeded 5 feet 10 inches in
height, but their bodies appeared large and robust, though their
limbs were small. They had broad flat faces, high cheeks, noses
inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths,
small but indifferent teeth, and straight black hair falling down
over their ears and foreheads, the latter being most generally
smeared with brown and red paints; and, like all the original
inhabitants of America, they were beardless. Their garments
were the skins of seals and guanicos, which they wrapped round
their shoulders. The men likewise wore on their heads a bunch of
yarn, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind with
the sinews or tendons of some animal. Many of both sexes were
painted in different parts of their bodies with ‘red, brown, and
white colours, and had also three or four perpendicular lines
pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women had a smak
string tied round each ankle, and each wore a flap of skin fastened
round the middle. They carried their children upon their backs,
and were generally employed in domestic labour and drudgery.
Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Buchan, and attendants, set out
with a design of going into the country and returning the same even-
ing. The morning had been very fine, but the weather afterwards
became cold and disagreeable, the blasts of wind were piercing,
and the snow fell very thick; nevertheless, they pursued their
route, in the hope of finding a better road, as that which they had
crossed was swampy. An accident now happened that greatly
disconcerted them all. Mr. Buchan was attacked with a fit.
Such as were fatigued remained to assist him; but Mr. Banks,
Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhouse proceeded on further, and
found a great variety of plants that amply repaid their toil. When
they returned to the company amidst the snow, which now fell in
great abundance, they found that Mr. Buchan was much recovered.
It was now about eight in the evening, and Dr. Solander, knowing
from experience that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue,

























































































































































































































































FUEGIAN WIGWAMS,











THE FIRST VOYAGE. 23



occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted, entreated his
friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to
them. His words were, “ Whoever sits down will sleep, and who-
ever sleeps will wake no more.” Accordingly, everyone now
seemed armed with resolution ; but, on a sudden, the cold became
so very intense as to threaten the most dreadful effects. It was
remarkable that the doctor himself, who had so forcibly ad-
monished his party, was the first person who insisted on repose.
In spite of their earnest entreaties, he lay down amidst the snow,
and it was with the greatest difficulty they kept him awake. One
of the black servants became also weary and faint, and was on
the point of following his example. Mr. Buchan was therefore
detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot
they could find; Mr. Banks and four more remained with the
doctor and Richmond, the black servant, who with the utmost
difficulty were persuaded to proceed ; but when they had traversed
the greater part of the swamp, they expressed their inability to go
any further. When Richmond was told that if he remained there
he would soon be frozen to death, his-reply was that he was so
exhausted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Dr.
Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first
take some sleep, acting contrary to the opinion which he himself
had so lately delivered. Thus resolved, they both sat down, sup-
ported by some bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. In-
telligence now came from the advanced party that a fire was kindled
about a quarter of a mile in advance. Mr. Banks then awakened
the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs, though it
was but a few minutes since he sat down; nevertheless, he con-
sented to go. Every measure, however, taken to relieve Rich-
mond proved ineffectual; he remained motionless, and they were
obliged to leave him to the care of a sailor and the other black
servant who appeared to be the least affected by the cold, and
they were to be relieved as soon as two others were sufficiently
warmed to supply their places. The doctor, with much difficulty,
was got to the fire, but the party who were sent to relieve the
companions of Richmond returned without having been able to
find them.

A fall of snow continuing for nearly two hours, there now re-



24 COOK’S VOYAGES.

mained no hopes of seeing the three absent persons again. About
twelve o’clock, however, a great shouting was heard at a distance,
when Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the sailor,
who had just strength enough left to walk. He was immediately
taken to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the other two.
They found Richmond upon his legs, of which, however, he had
lost the use, and the other black was lying senseless upon the
ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless :
nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the
snow that had fallen and was still falling, so there remained no
alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate
negroes to their fate, after they had made them a bed of the
boughs of some trees, and covered them over thick with the same.
As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move these
poor fellows to the fire, and had been exposed to the cold for near
an hour and a half in the attempt, some of them began to be
afflicted in the same manner as those whom they went to relieve.
Briscoe, another servant of Mr. Banks, in particular, began. to
lose his sensibility. At last they reached the fire, and passed the
night in a very disagreeable manner. \,

The party that set out from the ship consisted of twelve; two
were already judged to be dead, and it was doubtful whether a
third would be able to return on board; Mr. Buchan, a fourth,
seemed to be threatened with a return of his fits. They reckoned
that the ship was distant a long day’s journey through an unfre-
quented wood, and having been equipped only for a journey of a
few hours, they had not a sufficiency of provisions left to afford
the company a single meal.

At daybreak on the 17th nothing presented itself to view but
snow, and the blasts of wind were so frequent and violent that
their journey seemed to be impracticable. However, about six in
the morning they had a dawn of hope, by discerning the sun
through the clouds, and as they proposed to set out on their
return journey to the ship, messengers were despatched to the
unhappy negroes, but they returned with the melancholy news of
their death. They then started about ten in the morning, and to
their great astonishment and satisfaction, in about three hours
found themselves on the shore, and much nearer the ship than



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 25

their most sanguine expectations could have suggested, for, instead
of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle
almost round the country.

On the goth Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander again proceeded on
shore, and collected a number of shells and plants hitherto un-
known. After dinner they went to visit an Indian town, about
two miles up the country, situated on a small hill covered with
wood, and consisting of about a dozen huts, constructed without
art or regularity, composed of a few poles, inclining to each other
in the shape of a sugar loaf; these poles were covered: on the
weather side with grass and boughs, and on the lee side a space
was left open which served at once for a fireplace and a door.
A little grass formed their only beds and chairs; their utensils
were a basket for the hand, a satchel to hang upon the back, and
a bladder of water, out of which they drink through a hole in the
top. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty men,
women, and children. Their bows and arrows were constructed
with neatness and ingenuity, being made of wood highly polished,
and the point, which was either glass or flint, was very skilfully
fitted. These latter substances were observed among them un-
wrought, as also cloth, rings, buttons, etc., from whence it was
concluded that they sometimes travelled to the northward, as no
ship, for years past, had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego.
They did not show any surprise at the sight of arms, but appeared
to be well acquainted with their use. They seemed to be of a
very low type of humanity, passing their lives in wandering in a
forlorn manner over dreary wastes ; their only food was shell-fish,
nor had they the rudest implements of art—not even so much as
was necessary to dress their food. —

On the 2oth of January Captain Cook took his departure from
Cape Horn; and the weather being very calm, Mr. Banks pro-
ceeded in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed some shear-
waters and some large albatrosses. The latter proved very good
food. Notwithstanding that the doubling of Cape Horn was re-
presented by voyagers of that date as fraught with danger, and it
was generally thought that passing through the Straits of Magellan
was less perilous, yet the Endeavour doubled “the Horn,” as
sailors call it, with as little danger as she would the North Fore-





26 COOK’S VOYAGES.



land on the Kentish coast. The heavens were fair, the wind
temperate, the weather pleasant, and, being near shore, they had
a very distinct view of the coast. Captain Cook surveyed the Bay
of Good Success and traced the coast. The former charts of this
part of Terra del Fuego were nearly useless, they having been formed
from the rude sketches of Hermite, the Dutch Admiral, in 1624,
and those still worse of the discoverers Schouten and Le Maire.

On the 25th a marine, about twenty years of age, being falsely
charged with theft, took the accusation so much to heart that, in
the dusk of the evening, he threw himself into the sea and was
drowned.

On the 4th of April, about ro o’clock, Peter Briscoe, servant to
Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, at the distance of about
three or four leagues. Captain Cook immediately gave orders to
sail for it, when they found an island of an oval form, having a
lagoon or lake in the centre, whence he gave it the name of
Lagoon Island. The surrounding border of the land was low and
narrow in many places, especially towards the south, where the
beach consisted of a reef of rocks. Three places on the north
side had the same appearance, so that, on the whole, the land
seemed to resemble several woody islands. When within a mile
of the north side, no bottom could be found at 130 fathoms, nor
any good anchorage. Several of the natives were discovered on
shore; they appeared to be tall, with heads remarkably large,
which probably some bandage might have increased. Their com-
plexion was copper colour and their hair black. Some of these
people were seen abreast of the ship, holding poles or pikes of
twice their own height. ‘They appeared also to be naked, but
when they retired, on the ship’s passing by the islands, they put on
a light covering; some clumps of palm trees served them for
habitations.

The Endeavour, on the sth, continued her course with a favour-
able wind, and about three o’clock land was discovered to the
‘westward. It was low, in form resembling a bow, and in circum-
ference seemed to be ten or twelve leagues. Its length was about
three or four leagues, and its width about 200 yards. This island,
from the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be inhabited,
and was named Bow Island.























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































VIEW OF TAHITI,

























THE FIRST VOYAGE. ZG

On the roth of April, after.a tempestuous night, the Lindeavour
came in sight of Osnaburg Island, called by the natives Maitea.
This island is circular, about four miles in circumference, partly
rocky and partly covered with trees.

On the i1th they made Otaheite, or, as Captain Wallis had
named it, “ George the Third’s Island.” This island, the largest
and most important of the Society group, was first discovered by
Quiros, a Spaniard, as early as the year :6o6, and called Sagit-
taria. The next European to visit it was Captain Wailis, in 1767;
and it had been so ill described by the Spanish navigator, that
our countryman was unable to recognise it as the island discovered
by him. The third visitor was Captain Cook, on the occasion
under notice.

The society group consists of five islands and numerous small
islets. The former are called Qtaheite, Eimeo, Meatia, (or
Maitea), Maiaviti, and Tituaro ; and they all lie between 16° 30’
and 17° 54’ South lat., and 148° 153’ West long. At the present
time the island of Otaheite is the seat of the native government,
as well as that of the French, since its subjugation. This island

is formed by two distinct mountains, rising to the height of from

_ 6,000 to 8,000 feet, and divided from each other by a low isthmus

some three miles in width. The circumference of Otaheite is be-
tween 110 and 113 miles, and its coasts are girded by a coral reef.
Its geological formation is volcanic, though the valleys and _hill-
sides are of great fertility. The climate is temperate, the tempera-
ture ranging in summer between 68° and 86°. At the date of
the arrival of the first missionaries in 1797, the population is said
to have been under 20,000, and twenty years later it had actually
decreased to 5,000. Since 1820, owing to the abolition of infanti-
cide and the influence of the new religion upon the morals of the
natives, the population has attained the level of 1797, and again
numbers 20,000.

The calms prevented the Endeavour approaching Otaheite till
the morning of the 12th of April, when a breeze sprang up, and
several canoes were seen making towards the ship. Few of them,
however, would come near, and the occupants of those that did
could not be persuaded to come on board. They brought with
them young plantains and branches of trees, which were handed



30 COOK’S VOYAGES.



up the ship’s side; and by their desire were stuck in conspicuous
parts of the rigging as tokens of peace and friendship. After this,
the crew purchased their commodities, consisting of cocoa-nuts,
bananas, bread-fruit, apples, and figs, which were very acceptable.

They lay “off and on” all night, and in the morning of the
13th entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, and
anchored within half a mile of the shore. Many of the natives
came off immediately in their canoes, and brought with them
bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and some hogs, which they bar-
tered for beads and other trinkets with the ship’s company. The
tree which bears the bread-fruit is about the size of a horse chest-
nut; its leaves are nearly a foot anda half in length, in shape
oblong, and very much ‘resembling those of the fig-tree. The
fruit is enclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a man’s
thumb. The substance of this fruit is somewhat like that of new
bread, and as white as the blanched almond. It should be
roasted, and has a sweetish taste to the palate.

Amongst those who came on board the #ndeavour was an
elderly man named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore and others who
had visited the island with Captain Wallis, and as he was con-
sidered a very useful personage, they studied to please him and to
gratify all his wishes.

Captain Cook drew up several necessary rules to be observed
by every person on board, for the better establishment of a regular
trade with the natives. The substance of the rules were, ‘That
in order to prevent quarrels and confusion, every one of the ship’s
crew should endeavour to treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with
humanity, and by all fair means to cultivate a friendship with
them. That no officer, seaman, or other person belonging to the
ship, excepting such only as were appointed to barter with the
natives, should trade or offer to trade for any kind of provision,
fruit, or other produce of the island, without having express leave
so to do. That no person should embezzle, trade, or offer to
trade with any part of the ship’s stores ; and that no sort of iron
or anything made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful
articles in the ship, should be given in exchange for anything but
provisions.” These necessary rules were signed by Captain Cook,
and to the non-observance of them were annexed certain penalties,



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 31



besides the punishment accorded in the navy to the infraction of
the captain’s orders.

When the ship was properly secured, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks,
and Dr. Solander went on shore, with an armed party and their
friend Owhaw. They were received with awe and reverence by
some hundreds of the natives, who exchanged the tokens of peace,
and offered to conduct them to a spot of ground which would be
more convenient for them to occupy than where they landed.
They now took a circuit of about four miles, through groves of
the bread-fruit and cocoa trees. Intermingled with these were
the dwellings of the natives, which consisted of huts without walls.
In the course of their journey they found but few fowls or hogs,
and understood that none of their conductors, nor any of the
people they had hitherto seen, were persons of rank in the island.
Those of the crew who had before been at Otaheite, in the
Dolphin, were likewise of opinion that the queen’s residence had
been removed, as no traces of it were now to be discovered.

Next morning, before they could leave the ship, several canoes
came about her, filled with people, whose dress denoted them to
be of the superior class. Two of these came on board, and each
fixed on a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks and the other
Captain Cook. The ceremonial of investiture, if it may be so
called, consisted in taking off their clothes in a great part and
putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was
returned by the gentlemen presenting them with some trinkets.
They then made signs for their new friends to go with them to
the place of their abode, and the latter, desirous of being acquainted
with the people, and finding out a more convenient harbour,
accepted the invitation and went with them. Mr. Banks, Dr.
Solander, and others, landed in two boats at a distance of about
three miles from the ship, among a great number of the natives,
who conducted them to a large habitation, where they were intro-
duced to a middle-aged man, named Tootahah. When they were
seated, he presented to Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of
perfumed cloth, which compliment was returned by a present
from Mr. Banks. They were conducted to several other large
dwellings, wherein they walked about with great freedom. Walk
ing afterwards along the shore they met another chief, named



32 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Tubourai Tamaide, with whom they settled a treaty of peace in
the manner before described. . The chief gave them to understand
that he had provisions at their service, if they chose to eat, which
he produced, and they dined heartily upon bread- fruit, plantains,
and fish. In the course of this visit, Dr. Solander having missed
an opera-glass, complaint was made to the chief, which interrupted
the convivial party. This complaint was enforced by Mr. Banks
starting up and striking the butt-end of his musket against the
ground, which alarmed the Indians so much that all of them ran
precipitately out of the house, except the chief and a few others
of the superior class. The chief observed, with an air of probity,
that he would endeavour to recover it, adding that if this could
not be done he would make compensation, by giving as much
new cloth as should be thought equal to the value, The case,
however, was brought in a short time, and the glass itself soon
after. After this adventure was amicably terminated, they re-
turned to the ship about,six o’clock in the evening.

On Saturday, the °f Path, in the morning, several of the chiefs
came on board, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other
refreshments, for which they received linen, beads, and other
trinkets. The captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some officers,
went on shore to select a suitable spot for the erection of a fort
for their defence during their stay, and the ground was marked
out for the purpose, a great number of the natives looking on, and
behaving in the most peaceable manner.

Mr. Banks and his friends having seen few hogs and poultry in
their walks, suspected that they had been driven up the country,
for which reason they determined to penetrate into the woods, the
tent being guarded by a petty officer and a party of marines. On
this excursion several of the natives accompanied them. While
on their march they were alarmed by the report of two pieces,
fired by the guard of the tent. Owhaw, calling together the
captain’s party, dispersed all the Indians except three, who, in
token of their fidelity, broke branches of trees, according to their
custom, and whom it was thought proper to retain. When they
returned to the tent they found that an Indian had snatched
away one of the sentries’ muskets, and a young midshipman, who
commanded the party, was so imprudent as to give the marines.



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 33

orders to fire, and many of the natives were wounded ; but as the
offender had not fallen, they pursued him and shot him dead.
Mr. Banks was much displeased at this conduct; but as what had
passed could not be recalled, nothing remained but to endeavout
to accommodate matters with the Indians. Accordingly, through
the mediation of an old man, several of the natives were pre-
vailed to come over to them, and to give the usual tokens of
friendship. The next morning, however, they saw but few of the
natives on the beach, and none on board, from whence it was
concluded that the treatment they had received the former day
was not yet forgotten; and the English were confirmed in this
opinion by Owhaw’s having left them. In consequence of these
circumstances the captain brought the ship nearer to the shore,
and moored her in such a manner as to make her broadside bear
on the spot which they had marked out for erecting the fort. In
the evening, the captain and some of the gentlemen going on
shore, the Indians came round them and trafficked with them as
usual.

On the 17th they had the misfortune to lose Mr. Buchan. The
same day they received a visit fror: Tubourai Tamaide and
Tootahah, who brought with them some plantain branches, and
till these were received they would not venture on board. The
erection of the fort commenced on the 18th,

Some of the ship’s company were employed in throwing up in-
trenchments, whilst others were busied in cutting fascines, in
which work the Indians assisted them. The natives brought
down such quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts this day that it
was necessary to refuse them, and to let them know that none
would be wanting for two days. Mr. Banks slept for the first
time on shore this night. None of the Indians attempted to ap-
proach his tent ; he had, however, taken the precaution to place
sentries about it for his defence.

A sort of market was now established without the lines of the
fort, which was tolerably well supplied, and Tubourai Tamaide
was a frequent guest of Mr. Banks and the other English gentle-
men. He was the only native that attempted to use a knife and
fork, being fond of adopting European manners. Mr. Monkhouse,

the surgeon, being abroad on his evening walk, reported that he
c



34 COOK’S VOVAGES.



had seen the body of the man who had been shot from the tent.
It was deposited in a shed close to the house where he had re-
sided when alive. The body lay on a bier, the frame of which
was wood, supported by pillars about 5 feet high, and covered
with a mat, over which lay a white cloth; by its side lay a wooden
mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells. Towards the
feet was a bunch of green leaves and small dried boughs tied to-
gether, and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone about
the size of a cocoa-nut; here were also placed a young plantain
tree, and on the stem of a palm tree, which was placed upright
outside of it, was placed a cocoa-shell, filled with water. At the
side of one of the posts there hung a little bag with some roasted
pieces of bread-fruit. The natives were not pleased at his ap-
proaching the body, their jealousy appearing plainly in their
countenances and gestures.

On the 22nd they were entertained by some of the musicians
of the country, who performed on an instrument somewhat re-
sembling a German flute, but the performer blew through his
nostrils instead of his mouth, and others accompanied this instru-
ment, singing only one tune. Some of the Indians brought their
axes to grind-and repair, most of which they had obtained from
Captain Wallis and the crew of the Dolphin ; but a French axe
occasioned a little speculation, and at length, upon inquiry, it
appeared to have been left here by M. De Bougainville.

On the 25th, several knives being missed, Mr. Banks, who had
lost his among the rest, accused Tubourai Tamaide of having
taken it, upon which the chief, with tears in his eyes, made signs
that if he had been guilty of such a theft as had been imputed to
him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. But though he was
innocent, it was plain that the natives in general were very much
addicted to thieving, as though Mr. Banks’ servant had mislaid
the knife in question, yet the rest were produced in a day by one
of the natives.

On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted on the fort, which
alarmed the Indians, and several of the fishermen removed, fear-
ing that the guns would open fire on them. The next day,
Tubourai Tamaide came with three women and a friend to dine
at the fort, and after dinner returned to his own house. Ina



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 35

short time after he came back to complain of a butcher, who had
threatened to cut his wife’s throat because she would not barter a
stone hatchet for a nail. It appearing clearly that the offender
had infringed one of the rules enjoined by the captain for trading
with the natives, he was flogged on board, in their sight. When
the first stroke had been given, they interfered, and entreated that
the culprit might be untied; but when this favour was denied
them, they appeared greatly concerned, and burst into tears.

Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman whose
name was Oberea, he declared she was the same person whom he
judged to be queen of the island when he was there with Captain
Wallis. The eyes of everyone were now fixed on her, of whom so
much had been said by the crew of the Dolphin, and in the
account given of her by the captain. In person she was tall and
rather large made; she was about forty years of age, her skin
white, and her eyes had great expression in them; she had been
handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. An offer
was made to conduct her on board the ship, which she accepted.
Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which
she viewed very attentively. Captain Cook accompanied her on
shore, and when they landed, she presented him with a hog and
some plantains in return for his presents, which were carried to
the fort in procession, Oberea and the captain bringing up the
rear. On the way they met Tootahah, who, though not king,
seemed at this time invested with sovereign authority. He no
sooner saw the doll than he discovered strong symptoms of
jealousy, nor could any method be found of conciliating his friend-
ship but that of presenting him with one also.

On the goth, Tomio came in great haste to the tents, and tak-
ing Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that Tubourai Tamaide was
dying, owing to something which had been given him by our
people, and entreated him instantly to go to him. Accordingly
Mr. Banks did so, and found the Indian very sick. He had been
vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf which they said contained
some of the poison. Mr. Banks having examined the leaf, found
that it was tobacco, which the Indian had begged from some of
the ship’s company. He ordered him to drink cocoa-nut milk,
which soon restored him.



6 COOK’S VOYAGES.

fo



On the rst of May,.a chief, who had dined with the captain
sometime before, accompanied by some of his women, who used
to feed him, came on board alone. At dinner the captain helped
him to some victuals, supposing that he would have dispensed
with the ceremony of being fed, but the chief never attempted to
eat, and would have gone without his dinner if one of the servants
had not fed him. The officers took the astronomical quadrant
and other instruments on shore that afternoon, but when they
wanted to make use of the quadrant next day, it was missing. A
strict, search was made in and about the fort, and a considerable
reward was offered for it; but all proving fruitless, Mr. Banks,
accompanied by Mr. Green and some others, set out for the
woods, where they thought they might probably hear some tidings
of what was stolen. On their way they met with Tubourai
Tamaide and some of the natives, who were made to understand
that they had lost the quadrant, and that, as some of their coun-
trymen must have taken it, they insisted upon being shown the
place where it was concealed. After some inquiry, the instru-
ment was recovered, and it was found that it had received no real
injury, though it had been taken to pieces.

When they returned in the evening, they were much surprised
to find Tootahah under confinement in the fort, while a crowd of
the natives surrounded the gate, discovering marks of the greatest
anxiety for the fate of their chief. The occasion of his detention
originated from the conduct of the Indians, who, alarmed at
Captain Cook’s having gone up the country with an armed party,
left the fort that evening, and one of the canoes attempted to quit
the bay. The lieutenant who commanded on board the ship,
having received orders not to suffer any canoes to: depart, sent a
boat to detain her, but she no sooner approached than the
Indians jumped into the sea. Tootahah being of the number,
was taken and sent to the officer who commanded at the fort, who
concluded he should do right to detain him prisoner. The poor
chief expected to be put to death, until Captain Cook caused him
to be liberated, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the
natives entertained a sense of injury, and, as a proof of it, they
neglected to supply the market with provisions.

On the 3rd_of May provisions were extremely scarce, and it



THE FIRST VOYAGE. a7



was not without difficulty that Mr. Banks got a few baskets of
bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide. Tootahah, on the 4th, sent
for an axe and a shirt, in return for the hogs he had left behind ;
and accordingly, early in the morning of the 5th, Captain Cook,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and the doctor, set out in the pinnace,
taking with them one of Tootahah’s people, and soon reached
Eparre, where he resided. When they arrived, they found a
number of natives waiting for them on shore, and were conducted
directly to the chief, the people, notwithstanding the offence they
had so lately taken, shouting out in their language, “ Tootahah is
your friend.” He was sitting under a tree, and some old men
were standing about him. Having made signs for them to be
seated, he asked for the axe, which was then given him by
Captain Cook, as also the shirt, and a broad-cloth garment, which
latter he put on, and was well pleased with the present. They
were afterwards conducted to a large court-yard on one side of the
chief’s house, where they were entertained with wrestling, after
the manner of the country. He himself sat at the upper end of
the arena, having on each side of him several of his principal men
as judges of the sport, which was conducted as follows :—

Ten or twelve combatants entered the arena, and, after many
simple ceremonies of challenging, engaged, each endeavouring to
throw his antagonist by mere strength : they seized each other by
the hand, or other parts of the body, and without the least art,
till one, by having a greater hold, or stronger muscular force,
threw his antagonist on his back. The conquest was applauded
by the old men with a few words, repeated in a kind of tune, and
with three huzzas. After one engagement another succeeded : if
the combatants could not throw each other in the space of a
minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intervention of
their friends. A man with a stick officiated as master of the cere-
monies, keeping order among the people, and those of them who
pressed forward he struck with his stick very smartly. During
these athletic sports, another party of men performed a dance for
the space of a minute, but neither of these parties took the least
notice of each other, their attention being wholly fixed on their
own endeavours to please and conquer. - At the conclusion of
this entertainment, not unlike the wrestling matches of remote



38 COOK’S VOYAGES.



antiquity, they were told that some hogs and a quantity of bread-
fruit were preparing for dinner ; but their host, instead of setting
his two hogs before them, ordered one of them to be carried into
the boat. Here they thought to have enjoyed their good cheer,
but, at the desire of Tubourai Tamaide, they proceeded to the
ship. However, they were at last gratified with the promised re-
past, of which the chiet and his friends had a liberal share. This
friendly reconciliation operated on the natives like a charm, for it
was no sooner known that Tubourai Tamaide was on board, than
provisions of all kinds were brought to the fort in great plenty.

By this time the forge was set up and at work, which afforded
a new subject of admiration to the natives, and to Captain Cook
an additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by
permitting the smith, in his leisure hours, to convert the old iron
which they were supposed to have procured from the Dolphen into
various kinds of tools.

On the roth they sowed, in ground properly prepared, seeds of
melons and other plants, but none of them came up except
mustard. Mr. Banks thought the seeds were spoiled by a total
exclusion of fresh air, they having all been put into small bottles,
and sealed up with rosin. They learnt this day that the Indians
called the island Otaheite, the name by which it is now distin-
guished. They were not so fortunate in endeavouring to teach
them their names; and after repeated attempts to pronounce
them, which proved fruitless, the natives had recourse to new
names of their own invention. Captain Cook they named Toote ;
Mr. Hicks, Hete; the master they called Boba, from his Chris-
tian name, Robert; Mr. Gore, Toarro; Dr. Solander, Toano ;-
Mr. Banks, Tapane; and so on with the greater part of the ship’s
crew.

On the 13th, Tubourai Tamaide offended Mr. Banks by snatch-
ing his gun out of his hand, and firing it in the air, an action
which much surprised that gentleman, as he imagined him totally
ignorant of the use of it. As consideration for their safety im-
peratively required that these people should not acquire the use
of firearms, Mr. Banks made a serious matter of what probably
the other meant only as a joke; and, not without threats, gave
him to understand that to touch the piece was a great insult.

























































































































































































































































































































MATAVIA BAY, TAHITI.



THE FIRST VOYAGE. At



The offender made no reply, but set out Siedintely sw with his
family for Eparre. Great inconvenience being apprehended from
this man, and as in many instances he had been particularly use-
ful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him. He set out the same
evening from the fort, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, and found
him in the middle of a large circle of people, the picture of ex-
treme grief, which was also visible in the countenances of his at-
tendants. Mr. Banks lost no time in effecting a reconciliation
with the chief, and a double canoe being got ready, they all re-
turned together to the fort before supper, and as a pledge of
reconciliation both he and his wife passed the night in the tent of
Mr. Banks.

' On Monday, the r5th, Tubourai Taninide was detected in a
theft. Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but a basket
of nails, left in the corner of the tent, proved irresistible. He
confessed the fact of having stolen four nails, but when restitu-
tion was demanded, Tamaide said the nails were at Eparre.
High words passed, and the Indian produced one of the nails,
and was to be forgiven on restoring the rest; but his virtue was
not equal to the task, and he withdrew himself as usual when he
had committed an offence.

On the 27th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and
some others, set out in the pinnace to visit Tootahah, who had
again removed to a place called Atahouro, six miles from his last
abode. Having presented him with a yellow stuff petticoat and
other trifling articles, they were invited to supper and to pass the
night there. The party consisted of six only, but the place was
crowded with a greater number than the houses and canoes
could contain. Among the guests was Oberea, with her train of
attendants. Mr. Banks, having accepted of a lodging in Oberea’s
canoe, left his companions in order to retire to rest. Oberea had
the charge of his clothes; but, notwithstanding her care, they
were stolen, as were also his pistols, his powder-horn, and several
other things out of his waistcoat pockets. An alarm was given
to Tootahah, in the next canoe, who went with Oberea in search
of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches and waist-
coat on, and his musket uncharged. They soon returned, but
without success, and Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with





42 COOK’S VOYAGES.



the loss at present, and he then proceeded to find his companions.
He found the hut where Captain Cook and three other gentlemen
slept, and they told him that they had lost their stockings and
jackets. In effect, Dr. Solander, who joined them the next
morning, was the only one that escaped being robbed, and he
had slept at a house that was a mile distant.

Preparations were now made for viewing the transit of Venus,
and two parties were sent out to make observations from different
spots, so that in case of failing at Otaheite, they might succeed
elsewhere. They employed themselves in preparing their
instruments, and instructing in the use of them those gentlemen
who were to go out: and on Thursday, the rst of June, they seni
the long boat, with Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse (the two observers),
and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks, with proper instruments
to Eimayo. Others were sent out to find a spot that might
answer the purpose, at a convenient distance from their principal
station.

The party that went towards Eimayo, after rowing the greater
part of the night, having hailed a canoe, were informed by the
Indians of a place which was judged proper for their observatory.
On this rock, which rose out of the water, about 140 yards from
the shore, they fixed their tents.

On Saturday, the 3rd, the day of the transit, Mr. Banks, as

soon as it was light, left them in order to go and get fresh
provisions on the island, and had the satisfaction of seeing the
sun rise without a cloud. The king, whose name was Tarrao,
came to pay him a visit, and brought with him Nuna, his sister.
As it was customary for the people to be seated at their con-
ferences, Mr. Banks spread his turban of Indian cloth, which he
wore as a hat, upon the ground, and they all sat down. Then
the king’s presents, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-
nuts and bread-fruit, were brought, and Mz. Banks presented in
return an adze, a shirt, and some beads, which his Majesty re-
ceived with apparent satisfaction. The king, his sister, and
three good-looking young women, their attendants, then ac-
companied Mr. Banks to the observatory, where he showed them
the transit of Venus over the sun’s disc, and informed them that
his sole object in undertaking a voyage from remote regions was



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 43



to view the planet in that situation. Both the parties that were
sent out to make observations on the transit met with good
success, though they differed more than might have been ex-
pected in their records of the contact. Mr. Green’s account was
as follows :—

Morninc.
Hours. Min. Sec.
The first external contact or appearance of Venus on

the Sun : : : TO eer? Steed
The first internal contact, or iin immersion nO) 4A A!
AFTERNOON.
The second internal contact, or ee of the
immersion ; eA Oe
The second external contact, or ean immersion . 3 32 10
Latitude of the Observatory,
17° 209/157.

Longitude, 149° 32’ 30” W.
of Greenwich.

While the gentlemen and officers were busied in viewing the
transit, some of the ship’s company broke into the store-room
and stole a quantity of spike nails. After a strict search the
thief was discovered, and was ordered to receive two dozen
lashes.

On account of the absence, on the 4th of June, of the two
parties sent out to observe the transit, Captain Cook deferred
keeping the birthday of King George the Third to the next day,
the sth, when it was celebrated, and several of the Indian chiefs
partook of the entertainment, and drank his Majesty’s health in
the name of Kihiargo, the nearest imitation they could produce
of King George. On the 12th, complaint was made that the
Indians had lost some of their bows and arrows and strings of
plaited hair; the affair was inquired into, and being well attested,
the offending sailors each received two dozen lashes, which
appears to have been the limit of the corporal punishment ever
inflicted by Captain Cook, whose humanity appears in marked
contrast to that of naval commanders of his time, when frequently



ak COOK’S VOYAGES.

many hundred lashes were adjudged for offences that would now
be punished by two dozen, or fifty lashes at the outside.

On the roth, in the evening, Oberea and several of her
attendants paid the Zndeavour a visit. She came from Tootahah’s
palace in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-
fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog. Tupia under-
took to kill and dress the dog, which he did by making a hole in
the ground and baking it, and it was esteemed a very good
dish.

On the 21st they were visited by many of the natives, who
brought with them various presents. Among the rest was a chief
named Oamo, accompanied by a boy and a young woman.
Oberea and some of the Indians went from the fort to meet
them, bareheaded, and uncovered as low as the waist, which the
English judged to be marks of respect usually shown to persons
of high rank. When Oamo entered the tent, the young woman,
though seemingly very curious, could not be prevailed upon to
accompany him. The youth was introduced by Dr. Solander,
but as soon as the Indians saw him, they took care to have him
sent out. ;

Curiosity being raised by these circumstances, they made in-
quiry concerning the strangers, and were informed that Oamo
was the husband of Oberea, but that by mutual consent they
had been for a considerable time separated, and the boy and
girl were their children. The former was called Terridiri; he
was heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the islands, and when he
attained the proper age was to marry his sister.

On the 23rd, in the morning, one of the crew being missing,
they were told he was at Eparre, Tootahah’s residence in the
wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back. On his
return, he said that he had been taken from the fort and carried
to the top of the bay by three men, who forced him into a canoe,
after having stripped him, and conducted him to Eparre, where
he received some clothes from Tootahah, who endeavoured to
prevail on him to continue there. There was reason to conclude
this account true, for the natives were no sooner acquainted
with his return than they left the fort with precipitation.

On June the 26th, early in the morning, Captain Cook setting



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 43



out in the pinnace with -Mr. Banks, sailed to the eastward, with
a view to circumnavigating the island. Coming to a large bay,
they mentioned their design of going to the other side; but
their Indian guide, whose name was Titubaolo, said he would not
accompany them, and also endeavoured to dissuade them from
going, observing “that the country was inhabited by people who
were not subject to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.”
They resolved, however, to put their design into execution, and
on loading their pieces with ball, Titubaolo ventured to go with
them,

Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow isthmus
which divided the island into two parts, which formed distinct
governments. They landed in the district of a chief called
Maraitata, a name which signifies the burying place of men; his
father was called Pahairede—that is, a stealer of boats. The
people, however, gave the captain a very good reception, sold
them a hog for a hatchet, and furnished them with provisions.

A crowd of the natives came round the English gentlemen, who
continued to advance until they reached a district under the
government of Waheatua. They proceeded on their journey for
a considerable way along the shore, till at last they were met by
the chief, who had with him an agreeable woman of about twenty-
two years of age, who was called Toudiddi.

The parts which they now passed appeared to be better culti-
. vated than any of the rest, and the burial-places, which were neat
and ornamented with carvings, were more numerous.

A little further to the eastward they landed again, and were met
by Mathiabo, a chief, with whom they were unacquainted. He
supplied them with bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, and they purchased
a hog for a glass bottle, which he chose in preference to all the
other articles presented for his acceptance. A turkey and a goose
were seen here, which were much admired by the natives, and
were supposed to have been left by Captain Wallis’s people.
When they left the place the chief piloted them over the shoals.
In the evening, on their arrival at a bay on the north-west side of
the island, they met with a very friendly reception from the chief,
whose name was Wiverou, with whom they supped, in company
with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to sleep



46 COOK’S VOYAGES.



in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. The thieving pro-
pensities of these people, from the chiefs downward, were incor-
rigible, and again received an illustration in the conduct of
Mathiabo, who, having borrowed a cloak from Mr. Banks, to
serve as a coverlét when he lay down, made off with it. News of
the robbery was brought them by one of the natives, and they set
out in pursuit of Mathiabo, but had proceeded only a little way
before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which
this person had given up through fear.

On their return they found the house entirely deserted, and
about four in the morning the sentry gave the alarm that the boat
was missing. Their situation now was extremely disagreeable.
The party consisted of only four, with one musket and two pocket
pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remain-
ing a considerable time in a state of anxiety, the boat, which had
been driven away by the tide, returned; and Mr. Banks and his
companions had no sooner breakfasted than they set out on their
return.

On Friday, the 3oth, they arrived at Otahorou, where they
found their old acquaintance Tootahah, who received them with
great civility, and provided them with a good supper and con-
venient lodgings; and though they had been so shamefully
plundered the last time they slept with this chief, they spent the
night in the greatest security, none of their clothes nor any article
being missing the next morning. ‘They arrived at the fort at Port
Royal Harbour on the ist_of July.

After their return from this tour, they were very much in need
of bread-fruit, but their Indian friends soon supplied their wants.

On the 3rd Mr. Banks made an excursion in order to trace the.
river up the valley to its source, and to note the condition of the
country along its banks. He took some Indian guides with him,
and after passing houses for about six miles along its course, came
to one which was said to be the last that could be met with. The
master presented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and they
proceeded on their walk. In the course of their journey they
often passed through vaults, formed by rocky fragments, in which,
as they were told, benighted travellers sometimes took shelter.
Pursuing the course of the river about six miles further, they found



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 47



it banked on both sides by rocks almost 1oo feet in height, and
nearly perpendicular. Mr. Banks sought in vain for minerals
among the rocks, which, though bare on almost all sides, were
destitute of such substances. The stones everywhere exhibited signs
of having been burnt, which was the case with alf the stones that
were found while they stayed in Otaheite ; and both there and in
the neighbouring islands the traces of fire were evident in the clay
upon the hills.

On the 4th a great quantity of the seeds of the water-melon,
oranges, limes, and other plants, brought from Rio de Janeiro,
were planted on each side of the fort by Mr. Banks, who also
plentifully supplied the Indians with them, and planted many of
them in the woods. Some melons, the seeds of which had been
sown on their first arrival on the island, grew up and flourished
before they left it.

Preparations were now made to depart. The carpenters being
ordered to take down the gates and palisades of the fort, to be
converted into firewood for the Endeavour, dne of the natives
stole the staple and hook of the gate; he was pursued in vain,
but the property was recovered and returned by Tubourai
Tamaide.

Between the 8th and _gth two young marines one night with-
drew themselves from the fort, their absence being discovered in
the morning. Notice having been given the next day that the
ship would sail on that or the ensuing day, Captain Cook began
to suspect that they designed to remain on shore; but as no
means could be taken to recover them without running a risk of
destroying the harmony that subsisted with the natives, he resolved
to wait a day, in hopes of their returning. But as they were still
missing on the roth, an inquiry was made after them, when the
Indians declared that they did not purpose to return, having
taken refuge among the mountains, where it was impossible for
them to be discovered, and that each of them had taken a wife.
In consequence of this, it was intimated to several of the chiefs
who were in the fort, with the women, among whom were
Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not
be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. They did
not show any signs of fear or discontent, but assured the captain



48 COOK’S VOVAGES.



that the marines should be sent back. In the meantime Mr.
Hicks was despatched in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board
the ship, and he executed his commission without giving any
alarm. Night coming on, Captain Cook thought it imprudent to
let the people whom he had detained as hostages remain at the
fort; he therefore gave orders to remove them on board, which
greatly alarmed them all, especially the females, who testified
their fears by floods of tears.

In the evening one of the marines was brought back by some
of the natives, who reported that the other, and two of our men
who went to recover them, would be detained till Tootahah was
released. Upon this Mr. Hicks was immediately sent off in the
long boat, with a strong body of men, to rescue the prisoners ; at
the same time the captain told Tootahah that it was incumbent
on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders,
in his name, that the men should be set at liberty, for that he
would be held answerable for the event. Tootahah immediately
complied, and the party recovered the men without opposition.
On examining the deserters, it appeared that the Indians had told
the truth, they having associated with the females, with whom
they intended to have remained in the island. Tupia, who had
been prime minister to Oberea when she was supreme, and being
also chief priest, was well acquainted with the religion of the
country, and often expressed a desire to go with them whenever
they continued their voyage.

On the morning of the rath of July he came on board, with
a boy about 12 years of age, his servant, named Taiyota, and
earnestly requested permission to accompany them, As it was
thought he would be useful to them, his request was complied
with. Tupia then went on shore for the last time, to bid farewell
to his friends, to whom he gave several small tokens of remem-
brance.

Mr. Banks, being desirous of obtaining a drawing of the Morai,
which Tootahah had in his possession at Eparre, Captain Cook
accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr.
Solander. Immediately upon landing they repaired to Tootahah’s
house, where they were met by Oberea and several others. A
general good understanding prevailed. Tupia came back with



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 49





them, and they promised to visit the gentlemen early the next
day, as they were told the ship would then sail.

On the 13th these friendly people came very early on board,
and the ship was surrounded with a vast number of canoes, filled
with Indians of the lower sort. Between eleven and twelve they
weighed anchor, and took their leave of the natives, who could
not restrain their tears. Tupia supported himself through the
scene with a becoming fortitude, and though tears flowed from
his eyes, the effort he made to conceal them did him additional
honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, and waving
his hand, took a last farewell of his country. Thus they departed
from Otaheite, after a stay of just three months.

According to Tupia’s account, this island could furnish above
6,000 fighting men. The produce is + bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts,
bananas, sweet potatoes, yams, sugar-canes, the paper mulberry,
several sorts of figs, with many other plants and trees, all which
the earth produces spontaneously or with little culture. They
have no European fruits, garden stuffs, pulse, nor grain of any
kind. The tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry: there are
also wild ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds. The
only quadrupeds are rats, and_not_a_serpent.is to be seen. In
the sea is a great variety of excellent fish, which constitute their
greatest luxury.

The people in general are of larger make than the Europeans.
The males are mostly tall, robust, and finely shaped; the women
of the higher class are about the size of our English ladies, but
those of inferior rank are below our standard, and some of them
very short. Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive,. or
what we call a brunette. Their skins are delicately smooth and
agreeably soft; their faces in general are handsome, and their
eyes full of sensibility. Their teeth are remarkably white and
regular, and their hair for the most part black. The men, unlike
the aboriginal inhabitants of America, have long beards, which
they wear in various shapes. Their motions are easy and grace-
ful, and their behaviour, when unprovoked, affable and courteous.
Contrary to the custom of most other nations, the women of this
country cut their hair short, whereas the men wear it long, some-

times hanging loose upon their shoulders, at other times tied in
D



50 - COOK'S VOVAGES.



a knot on the crown of the head, in which they stick the feathers
of birds of various colours. A piece of cloth, of the manufacture
of the country, is frequently tied round the heads of both sexes in
the manner of a turban, and the women plait their human hair
into long strings which are tied on the forehead by way of
ornament.

They stain their bodies by indenting or pricking the flesh with
a small instrument of bone, cut into short teeth, which indentures
they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture prepared from the
smoke of an oily nut and water. This operation, called by the
natives tattaowing, whence we derive the term tattooing, is ex-
ceedingly painful, and leaves an indelible mark on the skin. It
is usually performed when they are about ten or twelve years of
age, and on different parts of the body; the instrument employed
has twenty teeth, and at each stroke the blood issues; both
males and females are compelled to undergo the operation.
They clothe themselves in cloth and matting of various kinds ;
the first they wear in fine, the latter in wet weather. The
garments are in different forms, no shape being observed in the
pieces, nor are they sewed together. The women of the superior
class wear three or four pieces; one, which is of considerable
length, they wrap several times round the waist, and it falls down
to the middle of the legs. Two or three other short pieces, with
a hole cut through the middle of each, are placed one on another ;
and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang
before and behind, while both sides being open, they have the
free use of their arms.

The dress of the men is very similar, differing only in this,
that one part of the garment, instead of falling below the knees,
is brought between the legs. This dress is worn by all ranks of
people, the only distinction being quantity in the superior class.
At noon both sexes appear almost naked, wearing only a piece of
cloth tied round the waist. Their faces are shaded from the sun
with small bonnets made of cocoa-nut leaves or matting, which
they construct in a few minutes. The men sometimes wear a
sort of wig of human or dog’s hair, or of cocoa-nut strings, woven
ona single thread, and hanging down behind. Both men and
women wear ear-rings on one side, consisting of shells, stones,



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 51





berries, or small pearls; but they soon gave the preference to the
beads brought by the Endeavow’s company. The boys and
girls go quite naked; the first till they are seven or eight years
old, the latter till they are about five.

The natives of Otaheite seldom use their houses but to sleep
in or to avoid the rain, and they eat their meals under the shade
of atree. Their clothes serve them for covering at night. There
are no divisions or apartments ; the master and his wife repose in
the middle, next the unmarried females, then the unmarried men,
and in fair weather the servants sleep in the open air. The
houses of the chiefs, however, differ in some particulars. There
are some very small and so constructed as to be carried in
canoes; all sides of them are enclosed with the leaves of the
cocoa-nut; the air nevertheless penetrates. In these the chief
and his wife only sleep. There are also houses which are general
receptacles for the inhabitants of a district, many of them being
more than 200 feet in length, 40 in breadth, and 70 or 80 feet
high. They are constructed at the common expense, and have
an area on one side, surrounded with low palisades, but, like the
others, without walls.

The cookery consists chiefly in baking. When a chief kills a
hog, which is seldom, he divides it equally among his vassals.
Dogs and fowls are more common food. When the bread-fruit
is not in season, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, etc., are sub-
stituted in its stead. They bake their bread-fruit in a manner
which renders it somewhat like a mealy potato. Of this three
dishes are made by beating them up with bananas, plantains, and
sour paste, which is called by them mahie. Their drink is
generally confined to water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut; some
of them would drink so freely of the English liquors as to become
quite intoxicated, though they were never known to practise a
debauch of this kind a second time. It was said that their chiefs
sometimes became inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant
called ava, but of this not a single instance occurred during the
time the Lndeavour remained at the island.

Chiefs eat generally alone, unless when visited by a stranger,
who is permitted sometimes to be a mess-mate. They sit on the
ground, with leaves of trees spread before them as a table-cloth.



52 COOK’S VOYAGES.

Their attendants, who are numerous, having placed a basket
before the chiefs, containing their provisions, and cocoa-nut shells
of fresh and salt water, seat themselves around them; they then
wash their mouths and hands; after which they eat a handful
of bread-fruit and fish, dipped in salt water, alternately, till the
whole is consumed, taking a sip of salt water between almost
every morsel. The bread-fruit and fish is succeeded by a second
course, consisting of either plantains or apples, which they never
eat without being pared. During this time a soft fluid of paste is
prepared from the bread-fruit, which they drink out of cocoa-nut
shells. This concludes the meal, and they wash their hands and
mouths again as at the beginning. They eat an astonishing
amount of food at a meal. Mr. Banks and others saw one of
them devour three fish of the size of a small carp, four bread-fruits
as large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains seven
inches long, and about half as big round, to all which was added
a:quart of paste to wash down and digest the whole.

The inhabitants of this island, though apparently fond of the
pleasures of society, have yet an aversion to holding any inter-
course with each other at their meals, and they are so rigid in
the observance of this custom, that even brothers and sisters
have their separate baskets of provisions, and génerally sit some
yards apart, when they eat with their backs to each other, and
without exchanging a word. The middle-aged of superior
rank usually take a siesta after dinner, but older people are not
so indolent.

Music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow con-
stitute the greatest part of their-diversions. Flutes and drums
are the only musical instruments among them. Their drums are
formed of a circular piece of wood, hollow at one end only, which
is covered with the skin of a shark, and beaten with the hand
instead of a stick. Their songs are extempore and frequently in
rhyme, but consisting only of couplets, which are often sung by
way of evening amusements, between sunset and bed-time;
during this interval they burn candles made of an oily nut, fixing
them one above another upon a small stick, which is run through
the middle. Some of these candles will burn a long time and
afford a good light.



THE FIRST VOYAGE. "53

Personal cleanliness is much esteemed among these Indians.
Both sexes are particular in washing three times a day—when
they rise, at noon, and again before they go to rest. They are
also cleanly in their clothes, so that no disagreeable effluvia are
found to arise in the largest assemblies,

Cloth is the chief manufacture of Otaheite, and of this there
are three sorts, which are made out of the bark of different trees,
namely, the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a tree which bears
some resemblance to the West Indian wild fig-tree. The first of
these produces the finest cloth, which is seldom worn but by
those of the first rank. The next quality is made of the bread-
fruit tree, and the coarsest of that which resembles the wild-fig
tree. This last sort, though the coarsest, is manufactured only in
small quantities. :

Matting of various kinds is another manufacture, in which in
many respects they excel Europeans. They make use of the
‘coarser quality to sleep upon, and in wet weather they wear the
finer. They excel in basket and wicker-work, and both men and
women employ themselves in working them in a great variety of
patterns. ‘They make ropes and lines in all sizes of the bark of
the poerou, and theirnets for fishing are made of these lines.
‘They make thread of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, with which they
fasten together the several parts of their canoes, the forms of
which are various, according to the use to which they are applied.
The fishing lines are esteemed the best in the world, made of the
bark of the erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains.
They are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous
fish, such as bonetas and albicores.

The tools which these people make use of for building houses,
constructing canoes, hewing stones, and for felling, cleaving,
carving, and polishing timber, consist of nothing more than an
adze of stone and a chisel of bone, most commonly that of a
man’s arm ; and for a file, or polisher, they make use of a rasp of
coral and coral sand. The blades of their adzes are extremely
tough, but not very hard ; they are of various sizes, those for fell-
ing wood weigh six or seven pounds, and others, which are used
for carving, only a few ounces.

Some of the smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree,



cA. = COOK’S VOYAGES.



which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a light spongy
nature. Instead of planes, they use their adzes with great dex-
terity. Their canoes are all shaped with the hand, the Indians
not being acquainted with the method of warping a plank. Of
these they have two kinds, one used for short trips, and the other
for longer voyages. These boats are in no degree proportionate,
being from 60 to 70 feet in length, and not more than a thirtieth
part in breadth. The ivahahs, or war-boats, are fastened together
side by side when they go to sea, at the distance of a few feet, by
strong wooden poles, which are laid across them and joined to

“each side. A:stage or platform is raised on the forepart, about

ro or 12 feet long, upon which stand the fighting men, whose
missile weapons are slings and spears. Beneath these stages the
rowers sit, who supply the place of those who are wounded. The
pahies, er sea-going boats, in going from one island to another,
are out sometimes a month, and often a fortnight or twenty days,
and if they had convenience to stow more provisions, they could
keep the sea much longer. These vessels are very useful in land-
ing, and putting off from the shore in a surf, for by their great
length and high stern they land dry, when the Endeavour’s boats
could scarcely land at all.

The care of the sick belongs to the priests, whose office is
hereditary, and whose method of cure consists generally of
prayers and ceremonies which are repeated till the patients re-
cover or die. ;

The religion of these islanders appears to be very mysterious.
The Supreme Being they style “The Causer of Earthquakes.”
They suppose that the chiefs and principal people will have the
preference to those of lower ranks in a future state, and that the
Deity takes no particular cognisance of their actions.

Their weapons consist of slings, in the use of which they are
extremely dexterous, and of long clubs, remarkably hard, with
which they fight obstinately and cruelly, giving no quarter to their
enemies in battle.

On the 13th of July, 1769, the Hndeavour quitted Otaheite.
Captain Cook was informed by Tupia that four islands, which he

tance of about one or two days’ sail, and that hogs, fowls, and























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































VALLEY IN HUAHEINE.








THE FIRST VOYAGE. 57



other refreshments, which had been very scarce, were to be got
there in abundance.

On the 16th they sounded near the north-west part of the
island of Huaheine, but found no bottom at seventy fathoms.
Several canoes put off, but the Indians seemed fearful of coming
near the ship, till the sight of Tupia removed their apprehensions.
They then came alongside, and the king of the island, with his
queen, came on board. They seemed surprised at whatever was
shown them, but made no inquiries after anything but what was
offered to their notice. The king, whose name was Oree, as a token
of amity, proposed exchanging names with Captain Cook, which was
readily acceded to.

Having anchored in a small but convenient harbour on the
west side of the island (called by the natives Owparre), the captain
went on shore, acconipanied by Mr. Banks and some officers,
with the king and Tupia. The moment they landed, Tupia un-
covered himself as low as the waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse
to follow his example. Being seated, he began a speech which
lasted about twenty minutes ; the king, who stood opposite to
him, answering him in what seemed set replies. During this
harangue, Tupia delivered, at different times, a handkerchief, a
black silk neckcloth, some plantains and beads, as presents to
their Eatua or Deity; and in return received a hog, some young
plantains, and two bunches of feathers, all which were carried
on board. These ceremonies were considered as a kind of rati-
fication. of a treaty between the English and the King of Hua-
heine.

On the roth, in exchange for some hatchets, they obtained three
very large hogs. As they intended to sail in the afternoon, King
Oree and others of the natives went on board to take their leave.
Captain Cook presented to Oree a small pewter plate, stamped
with this inscription, “‘ His Britannic Majesty’s Ship Lndeavour,
Captain Cook, Commander. July 16th, 1769.” They gave him
also some medals or counters, resembling English coins, and
other trifles, which he promised to keep. From Huaheine, which
is about sixty miles from Otaheite, they sailed for the island of
Ulietea, distant seven or eight leagues.

On the 2oth the Hndeavour anchored in a bay on the north



58 COOK'S VOYAGES.



side of that island. ‘Iwo canoes soon came off from the shore,
and the natives brought with them two small hogs, which they
exchanged for some nails and beads. The captain, Mr. Banks,
and other gentlemen now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia,
who introduced them with the same kind of ceremonies that had
taken place on their landing at Huaheine; after this Captain
Cook took possession of this and the adjacent islands, in the
name of his Britannic Majesty.

On the 24th they put to sea, and steered northward within the
reef, towards an opening about five or six leagues distant, in
effecting which’ they were in danger of striking on a rock, the
soundings suddenly deepening to “two fathoms,” supposed to be
the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of
these islands, are as steep as a wall.

On the 25th, they.were within a league or two of the island of
Otaha, but could not get near enough to land, the wind being
contrary until the morning, when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander
went in the long-boat with the master, to sound a harbour on the
east side of the island, which they found safe and convenient.
They then went on shore and purchased a large quantity of plan-
tains and some hogs and fowls.

They made sail to the northward, and finding themselves to
windward of a harbour on the west side of Ulietea, on the 2nd of
August, they moored in twenty-eight fathoms. Many of the
natives came off and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, which
were purchased upon very moderate terms. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander went on shore and spent the day very agreeably, the
natives showing them very great respect. Being conducted to the
houses of the chief people, they found those who had run hastily
before them, standing on each side of a long mat spread upon the
ground, and the family sitting at the further end of it.

In one of the houses they were entertained with a dance, differ-
ent from any they had yet seen. The performer put upon his
head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylin-
drical form, covered with feathers, and edged round with shark’s
teeth. With this head-dress he began to dance with a slow
motion, frequently moving his head so as to describe a circle with
the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the









































































































































































































































































































































































A NATIVE DANCE.







THE FIRST VOYAGE. : 61



faces of the bystanders as to make them jump back. This they
considered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always pro-
duced a hearty laugh when practised upon any of the English
gentlemen. On the 3rd they met with another company of
dancers, consisting of six men and two women. ‘The dancers
were some of the principal people of the island, and though they
were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling parties of
Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the bystanders. ‘The women
wore a considerable quantity of plaited hair, ornamented with
flowers, which were stuck in with taste, and made an elegant head-
dress. They advanced sideways, keeping time with great exact-
ness to the drums, which beat quick and loud ; soon after they
began to shake themselves in a very whimsical manner, and put
their bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes sitting
down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and
resting on their knees and elbows, moving their fingers at the
same time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. Between
the dances of the women a kind of dramatic interlude was per-
formed by the men, consisting of dialogues as well as dancing ;
but they could not learn the subject of this interlude.

Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen were
present at a more regular dramatic entertainment the next day.
The performers, who were all men, were divided into two parties,
one dressed in brown, the other in white, by way of distinction.
Tupia being present, informed them that the party in brown acted
the parts of a master and his servants, and the party in white a gang
of thieves. The master having produced a basket of meat, which
he gave in charge to his servants, the party in white exhibited a
variety of expedients in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the
brown as many in preventing the accomplishment of the design.
After some time had been spent in this manner, those to whom
the basket was intrusted, laying themselves on the ground round
it, pretended to fall asleep; the other party availed themselves of
this opportunity, and carried off their booty; the servants awaking
soon after, discovered their loss, but made no search after the
basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before.

On Saturday, the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large
pieces of cloth, many of them from forty to sixty yards in length,



62 COOK'S VOYAGES.

‘with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain
Cook asa present from the king of the neighbouring island of
Bolabola, with a message to the effect that he was then on the
island, and intended waiting on the captain. He, however, did
not visit them according to his promise, but sent three young
women to demand something in return for his present. After
dinner they set out to visit the king on shore, since he did not
think proper to come on board. As he had conquered Bolabola,
and was the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were
greatly surprised at finding a poor feeble old dotard, half blind,
and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received
them without that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met
with among the other chiefs. On the gth, having stopped a leak,
and taken on board a fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of
the harbour, and flattered themselves that the fowls and hogs
would be a sufficient supply for the voyage, but in this they were
disappointed, for the hogs could not be brought to eat European
grain, or any provender that the ship afforded, and they were
under the necessity of killing them immediately. The fowls also
all died of a disease in the head, with which they were seized
soon after they had been brought on board. Being detained
longer at Ulietea in repairing the ship than they expected, they
did not go on shore at Bolabola, but after giving the general name
of “Society Islands” to the whole group, they pursued their
course, standing to the southward, for an island to which they
were directed by Tupia, at about 100 leagues distant, which they
discovered on the 13th, and were informed by him that it was
called Ohiterea. On the 14th of August they stood in for the
land, and as they approached observed that the Indians were
armed with long lances. A number of them wére soon drawn
together on the beach, and two jumped into the water, endeavour-
ing to gain the boat, but she soon left them, and some others who
had made the same attempt, far behind.

Having doubled the point where they intended to land, they
saw another party of natives standing at the end of it, armed like
those whom they had seen before. Preparations being made for
landing, a canoe full of Indians came off towards them. Tupia
was desired to acquaint them that the English did not intend to





LVHE FIRST VOYAGE. 63





offer violence, but meant to traffic with them for nails, which were
produced. Upon this they came alongside the boat, and accepted
some nails which were given them, appearing well pleased with
the present. In a few minutes, however, several of these people
boarded the boat, designing to drag her on shore; but some
muskets being discharged over their heads, they leaped into the
sea, and having reached the canoe, joined their countrymen, who
stood ready to receive them. The boat pursued the fugitives, but
the crew finding the surf extremely. violent, did not land, but
coasted along shore, to find a more convenient place. After this
it was proposed that the people of the Endeavour should go on
shore and trade with the natives if they would lay aside their
weapons ; but to this they would not agree unless the English
would do the same. As treachery was anticipated, the proposal
was not complied with; and since neither the bay which the
Endeavour entered, nor any other part of the island, furnished a
good harbour or anchorage, it was resolved to proceed to the
southward.

On the rsth, they sailed with a fine breeze, and on the 25th
celebrated the first anniversary of their leaving England. A large
Cheshire cheese, which had been preserved for this festive occa-
sion, was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved

,p,y to be in sound condition.

Land was discovered on Thursday, the 7th of October, and on
the morning of the 8th they came to an anchor opposite the
mouth of a small river, not above half a league from the shore,
Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some others, went
‘on shore in the evening, and proceeded to a few small houses in
the neighbourhood. Some of the natives, who had concealed
themselves, took’ advantage of their absence from the boat, and
rushed out, advancing and brandishing their long wooden lances.
‘The coxswain fired a musket over their heads, but it did not ap-
pear to intimidate them, in consequence of which he levelled his
piece and shot one of them dead on the spot. Struck with
astonishment at the death of their companion, they retreated to
the woods with great precipitation. The report of the gun
brought the advanced party back to the boats, and they returned
immediately to the ship.



64 COOK’S VOYAGES.





On the gtha great number of the natives were seen near the
place where the Englishmen landed the preceding evening, and
the greater part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-
boat, pinnace, and yawl being manned with marines and sailors,
Captain Cook, with the rest of the gentlemen and Tupia, went on
shore, and landed on the opposite side of the river, over against a
spot where several Indians were sitting on the ground. They im-
mediately started up and began to handle their weapons, each
producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of
stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted
round their wrists. Tupia was directed to speak to them in his
language ; and they were agreeably surprised to find that he was.
understood. Their intention at first appeared to bé hostile,
brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner ; upon |
which a musket was fired at some distance from them, and the
ball happening to fall into the water they appeared terrified, and
desisted from their menaces, Tupia informed them the English
desired to traffic with them for provisions, to which they con-
sented, provided the English crossed over to them to the other
side of the river. This was agreed to, upon condition that the
natives would quit their weapons; but the most solemn assur-
ances of friendship could not prevail with them to comply. Not
thinking it prudent, therefore, to cross the river, the English in
turn entreated the Indians to come over to them, and after some
time one of them did so. He was presently followed by several
others. They did not value the beads and iron that were offered
in the way of barter, but proposed to exchange weapons, which
being objected to, the Indians endeavoured to snatch the arms,
but in this attempt they were frustrated, and Tupia gave them to
understand that any further offers of violence would be punished
with instant death. One of them, nevertheless, had the audacity
to snatch Mr. Green’s dagger when his back was turned to them,
and retiring a few paces, flourished it over his head; but his
temerity cost him dear, for Mr. Monkhouse fired 2 musket loaded
with ball, and shot him dead. Soon after the natives retreated
slowly inland, and the English returned to their boats. This be-
haviour of the Indians; added to the want of fresh water, induced
Captain Cook to continue his voyage round the bay, with a hope





THE FIRST VOYAGE. 65,



of inducing some of the natives to come on board, so that by
kind treatment he might establish a good understanding with
them. An event occurred, which, though attended with disagrec-
able circumstances, promised to facilitate this design. Two
canoes appeared, making towards land, and Captain Cook pro-
posed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear
off ; but the Indians in the other, finding it impossible to escape,
began to attack them with their paddles. This compelled the
Endeavour’s people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians
were killed, and the other three, who were young men, jumped
into the water and endeavoured to swim to shore; they were,
however, taken up and conveyed on board. At first they were
greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but Tupia, by
repeated assurances of friendship, removed. their apprehensions.
Having retired to rest in the evening, they slept very quietly.
The next morning preparations were made for sending them to |
their countrymen, at which they expressed great satisfaction ; but
finding the boat approaching Captain Cook’s first landing-place,
they intimated that the inhabitants were foes. The captain,
nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near this spot, resolving
at the same time to protect the youths from any injury that might
be offered them. They had scarcely departed on their return to
their friends when two large parties of Indians advanced hastily
towards them, upon which ‘they again flew to the English for
protection. When the Indians drew near, one of the boys dis-
covered his uncle among them, and a conversation ensued across
the river, in‘which the boy gave a just account of our hospitality,
and took great pains to display his finery. After this the uncle
swam across the river, bringing with him a green bough, a token
of friendship, which was received as such, and several presents
were made him. The three youths, by their own desire, returned
to the ship ; but as the captain intended to sail the next morning
he sent them ashore in the evening, though much against their
inclination.

Captain Cook, on the 11th, set sail in hopes of finding a better
anchoring-place, and in the afternoon the #ndeavour was be-
calmed. - Several canoes, full of Indians, came off from the shore,

who received many presents, and bartered their clothes and some
EB



66 COOK'S VOYAGES.



of their paddles for European commodities. Having finished
their traffic, they returned in such a hurry, that they forgot three
of their companions, who remained on board all night. These
testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia
took great pains to convince them that they were in no danger,
and about seven o’clock the next morning a canoe came off, with
four Indians on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians
in the ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come hear
them, and not till after the former had assured them that the
English did not eat men.

On the rath several Indians came off in a canoe ; they were
disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sang, and at times
appeared peaceably inclined, but at others, to menace hostilities.
Notwithstanding Tupia earnestly invited them to come on board,
none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was
getting clear of the shoals, five canoes, full of Indians, came off,
and seemed to threaten the people on board by brandishing their
lances, and other hostile gestures. A 4-pounder, loaded with
grape-shot, was therefore fired over their heads, which made them
drop astern. Two more canoes came off whilst the Lndeavour
lay at anchor, but the Indians behaved very peaceably, and re-
ceived several presents, but would not come on board.

On Friday, the 13th, they pursued their course. The next
morning they had a view of the inland country. Nine canoes,
full of Indians, came off from the shore, and five of them, after
having consulted together, pursued the ndeavour, apparently
with a hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaiit them that
immediate destruction would ensue if they persevered in their at-
tempts; but words had no influence, and a 4-pounder, with
grape-shot, was fired to give them some notion of the arms of
their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning,
and paddled hastily away. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and
acquainted them that if they came in a peaceable manner, and
left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them, upon
which one of the canoes, submitting to the terms, came alongside
the ship, and recetved many presents.’

a} Lt) 4, On the rsth, in the afternoon, a canoe with a number of armed
Indians came up, and one of them, who was clothed with a black





THE FIRST VOYAGE. 67

skin, found means to defraud the captain of a piece of red _baize,
under pretence of bartering the skin for it. As soon as he had
got the baize into his possession, instead of giving the skin in re-
turn agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them together and ordered
the canoe to put off from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the re-
peated remonstrances of the captain. After a short time, this
_canoe, together with the fishing-boats which had put off at the
same time, came back to the ship, and trade was again began.
During this second traffic with the Indians, one of them unex-
pectedly seized Tupia’s little boy, Taiyota, and pulling him into
his canoe, instantly put off and paddled away with: the utmost
speed ; several muskets were immediately fired at them, and one
of them receiving a wound, they let go the boy, who before was
held down in the bottom of the canoe. ‘Taiyota, taking advant-
age of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea and
swam back towards the Hndeavour. He was taken on board
without receiving any harm, but his strength was so much ex-
hausted with the weight of his clothes, that it was with great
difficulty he reached the ship. In consequence of this attempt to
carry off Taiyota, Captain Cook called the cape off which it
happened, Cape Kidnappers.

The #ndeavour now passed a small island, which was named
Bare Island. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape
Turnagain to a headland, and on the 19th named a peculiar-look-
ing cape, Gable-end Foreland. On Friday, the 2oth, they anchored
ina bay about two leagues further to the northward, to which they
were invited by some natives in canoes, who behaved very amic-
ably, and pointed to a place where they said they would find
plenty of fresh water. Two chiefs came on board; they were
dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers,
the other with dog-skin. .They were presented with linen and
some spike-nails, though they did not value the last so much as
the inhabitants of the other islands. The rest of the Indians
traded without the least attempt at imposition, and Tupia was
directed to acquaint them with the views of the English in coming
hither, and promised that they should receive no injury if they
offered none. In the afternoon the chiefs returned, and towards
evening the captain, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks went on shore,



638 COOK’S VOVAGES.



They were courteously received by the inhabitants, who did not
appear in numerous bodies, and in many instances were scrup-
ulously attentive not to give offence. They made an agreeable
tour round the bay, and had the pleasure of finding two streams
of fresh water. They remained on shore all night, and the next
day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander discovered several birds, among
which were quails and large pigeons. Many stages for drying fish
were observed, and some houses with fences. They saw dogs
with pointed ears, and very ugly. Sweet potatoes were found
also. The cloth-plant grew wild. In the neighbouring valleys
the lands were laid out in regular plantations ; and in the bay
they caught plenty of crabs, cray-fish, and horse-mackerel, larger
than those upon the English coasts.

The women paint their faces with a mixture of red ochre and
oil, which, as they were very plain, rendered them even less pre-
possessing. The faces of the men were not in general painted,
but they were daubed with dry red ochre from head to foot, their
apparel not excepted. Though in personal cleanliness they were
inferior to those of Otaheite, yet in some particulars they surpassed
them.

-On the evening of Sunday, the 22nd, they weighed anchor and
put to sea, but the wind being contrary, they stood for another
bay a little to the south. They found a watering-place in a small
cove a little within the south point of the bay, distant about a
mile.

On Monday, the 23rd, in the afternoon, they went on shore,
and found the water extremely good, also plenty of wood; and
the natives showed them much civility. In a valley, between two
very high hills, they saw a curious rock that formed a large arch.
This cavern was 70 feet in length, 30 in breadth, and nearly 50
in height, and commanded a view of the bay and the hills on the
other side.

On their return they met an old man, who entertained them
with the military exercise of the natives, which he performed with
the patoo-patoo and the lance. The former is used as a battle-
axe; and the latter is 18 or 20 feet in length, made of hard wood,
and sharpened at each end. A stake was substituted for a sup-
posed enemy. The old warrior first attacked him with his lance,

—





THE FIRST VOYAGE. 69

advancing with a most furious aspect. Having pierced him, the
patoo-patoo was used to demolish his head, at which he struck
with a force which would at one blow have split any man’s skull.
At the watering-place the Indians sang their war song, which was
a strange medley of sighing, shouting, and grimace, at which’the
women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and other gentle-
men went upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met
with a canoe which was 67 feet in length, 6 in breadth, and 4 in
height ; her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of
trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved.

They also came to a large unfinished house; the posts which
supported it were ornamented with carvings that. did not appear
to have been done upon the spot, though the people seemed to
have a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and the tops of
walking-sticks evinced. Their favourite figure is a volute or spiral,
which is sometimes single, double, or triple, and is done with
great exactness, though the only instruments were an axe, made
of stone, and a chisel. Their taste is extremely whimsical and
extravagant, scarcely ever imitating nature. Their huts are built
under trees, in the form of an oblong square; the door low on
the side, with the windows at the ends. Reeds covered with
thatch compose the walls ; the beams of the eaves, which come to
the ground, being also covered with thatch.

On the 29th of October the Zndeavour quitted the bay, and
sailing to the northward, came to a small island about a mile
distant from the north-east point of the mainland ; and this being
the most eastern part of it, the captain named it East Cape, and
the island, East Island. Continuing under sail, they came to an

_ island which he named White Island. On the tst_of November
forty canoes came off as before, threatening to attack the

Lindeavour. One of their chiefs flourished his pike and made
several harangues, seeming to bid defiance to those on board the
vessel. At last, after repeated invitations, they came close along-
side; but instead of showing a disposition to trade, the harangu-
ing chief took up a stone, which he threw against the ship, and
they immediately after seized their arms. They were informed by
Tupia of the dreadful consequences of commencing hostilities,
but this admonition remained unheeded. A piece of cloth, how-







70 COOK?S VOYAGES.



ever, happening to attract their eyes, they began to be more mild
and reasonable. A quantity of cray-fish, muscles, and conger-eels
were now purchased. No fraud was attempted by this company
of Indians, but some others that came after them took goods
from the vessel without making proper returns. As one of them,
who had rendered himself remarkable for these practices, and
seemed proud of his skill in them, was putting off with his canoe,
a musket was fired over his head, which circumstance produced
good order for the present; yet when they began to traffic with
the sailors they renewed their frauds, and one of them was bold
enough to seize some linen that was hung to dry, and run away
with it. In order to induce him to return, a musket was fired
over his head, but this not answering the end, he was shot in the
back with small shot, yet he still persevered in his design. This
being perceived by his countrymen, they dropped astern and set
up the song of defiance. In consequence of their behaviour,
though they made no preparations to attack the vessel, the captain
gave orders to fire a 4-pounder, and its effects on the water so
terrified them that they retreated with precipitation.

On the 4th, at daybreak, no less than twelve canoes made their’
appearance, containing nearly 200 men, armed with spears, lances,
and stones, who seemed determined to attack the ship, and would
have boarded her had they known which quarter was most suit-
able for attack. While they were paddling round her, the
crew meantime being on the watch in the rain, Tupia, at the
request of the captain, used a number of dissuasive arguments to
prevent their carrying their designs into execution; but nothing
could pacify them till some muskets were fired. They then laid
aside their hostile intentions, and began to trade ; yet they could
not refrain from their fraudulent practices, for, after they had fairly
bartered two of their weapons, they would not deliver up a third,
for which they had received cloth, and only laughed at those who
demanded an equivalent. The offender was wounded with small
shot, but his countrymen took not the least notice of him, and
continued to trade without any discomposure.

On the morning of the fifth the Indians came off to the ship
again, and behaved much better than they had done the preced-
ing day. An old man in particular, named Tojava informed



THE FIRST VOVAGE. 91





them that they were often visited by freebooters from the north,
who stripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and at
times made captives of their wives and children, and that being
ignorant who the English were after their first arrival, the natives
had been much alarmed, but were now satisfied of their good in-
tentions. He added that for their security against those plunderers,
their houses were built contiguous to the tops of the rocks, where
they could better detend themselves. Having despatched the
long-boat and pinnace into the bay to haul and dredge for fish
with little success, the Indians testified their friendship, and
brought for sale great quantities of fish dressed and dried ; they
also supplied them with wood and good water. While the English
were out with their guns, the people who stayed by the boats saw
two of the natives fight. The battle was begun with their lances,
but some old men taking these away, they were obliged to decide
the quarrel, like Englishmen, with their fists.

On the 9th the Indians brought a prodigious quantity of mac-
kerel, which they sold at a low rate, and the cargoes purchased
were so great that the ship’s company cured as many as would
serve for a month’s provision.
some of the gentlemen to observe the transit of Mercury. The
observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, and
Captain Cook took the sun’s altitude to ascertain the time. While
the observation was making, a canoe, with various commodities
on board, came alongside the ship, and Mr. Gore, the officer who
had then the command, being desirous of encouraging them to
traffic, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than
any they had yet seen, which was immediately seized by one of

_the Indians, who obstinately refused either to return it or give
anything in exchange. He paid dearly, however, for his temerity,
being shot dead on the spot. His death alarmed all the rest ;
they fled with great precipitancy, and could not be induced to
renew their traffic. But when the Indians on shore had heard
the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the
conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited
his fate.

The weather being favourable, the transit of Mercury was viewed



72 COOK’S VOYAGES.



without a cloud intervening. In consequence of this observation
being made here, this bay was called Mercury Bay.

The Indians sup before sunset, when they eat fish and birds,
baked or roasted on a stick planted in the ground near the fire.
A female mourner was present at one of their suppers. She sat
on the ground and wept incessantly, at the same time repeating
some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not
explain. At the termination of each period she cut herself with
a shell upon her breast, her hands, or her face. Notwithstanding
this spectacle greatly affected the gentlemen, all: the Indians who
sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved.

Abundance of oysters were procured from a bed which had
been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day
the ship was visited by two canoes, who bartered with honesty.
Captain Cook sailed from this island, having, on the 15th of
November, taken possession of it in the name of his sovereign.

On the morning of the 18th, the Endeavour steered between
the mainland and an island, which seemed very fertile, and as ex-
tensive as Ulietea. Several canoes, filled with Indians, came
alongside, and they sang their war-song, but the Hndeavour’s
people paying them no attention, they threw a volley of stones
and then paddled away; however, they presently returned and
renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, but they answered
by brandishing their weapons, intimating that they would destroy
them all. The Z#ndeavour cast anchor in the evening, and early
the next morning sailed up an inlet. Soon after the canoes
paddled off, and some of the Indians came on board. ‘They
knew Tojava, and called Tupia by his name. Having received
some presents they returned peaceably, and apparently highly
gratified.

On Monday, the 2oth, after having run five leagues, they came
to anchor in a bay called by the natives Ooahaouragee, which
Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, set off in the
pinnace to examine. They landed on the west side to inspect
the lofty.trees that adorned its banks; at the entrance of a wood
they met with a tree 98 feet high from the ground, quite straight,
and 19 feet in circumference; and as they advanced they found
others still larger, Captain Cook gave to this river the name of





THE FIRST VOYAGE. 73



Thames, it having a resemblance to the river of that name in
England. . ;

They made sail early on the 22nd, and kept under weigh till
the flood obliged them once more to come to an anchor. The
captain and Dr. Solander went on shore to the west, but made no
observations worth relating. After these gentlemen departed, the
ship was surrounded with canoes, and Mr. Banks remained on
board, that he might trade with the Indians, who bartered their
arms and clothes for paper; but though they were in general
honest in their dealings, one of them took a fancy to a half-minute
glass, and being detected in secreting it, he was punished with the
cat-o-nine tails. The Indians attempted to interfere, and they
got their arms from their canoes, but being informed of the nature
of the intended punishment, they appeared satisfied, and the
criminal not only received a dozen, but afterwards a good drub-
bing from an old man who was thought to be his father. On the
24th they kept steering along the shore, anchoring between the
tides. No inhabitants were visible, but from the fires perceived
at night, it was concluded to be inhabited.

On the 26th, towards night, seven large canoes paddled off with
about 200 men, some of whom came on board. ‘These were
followed by two -larger canoes, adorned with carving. The
Indians, after holding a conference, came alongside the vessel.
They were armed with various weapons, and seemed to be of the
higher order. Their patoo-patoos were made of stone and
whalebone, ornamented with dogs’ hair, and were held in high
estimation.

On the 2gth, having weathered a point of land which the captain
named Cape Brett, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large
bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands,
and the ship was soon surrounded by thirty-three large canoes,
containing nearly 300 Indians, all armed. Some of them were
admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broadcloth
to one of the chiefs and some small presents to the others. They
traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the firearms,
with the effects of which they were not unacquainted ; but whilst
the captain was at dinner, on a signal given: by one of the chiefs, all
the Indians quitted the ship and attempted to tow away the buoy.



74 COOK'S VOYAGES.



A musket was first fired over them, but without effect, and then
small shot was fired at them, but it fell short. A musket, loaded
with ball, was, therefore, ordered to be fired, and a son of the
chief was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them im-
mediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their con-
fusion, a round shot was fired which reached the shore, and as
soon as they landed they ran to search for it. If they had been
under any kind of discipline they might have proved a formidable
enemy.

Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander landed in a small
cove in the island, and were presently surrounded by nearly 400
armed Indians ; but the captain, not suspecting any hostile design
on the part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The
Englishmen marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that
they were not to pass it. They did not infringe upon this boun-
dary for some time; but at length they sang the song of defiance,
and began to dance, whilst a party endeavoured to drag the:
Findeavour’s boat on shore; these signals for an attack being.
followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen
judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly the captain
fired his musket, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by
Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed
his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they
retreated, but were rallied again by one of their chiefs, who
shouted and waved his patoo-patoo. The doctor now pointed
his musket at this hero, .and hit him, when he took flight with
the other Indians. They were now at too great a distance for a
ball to reach them ; but these operations being observed from the
ship, she brought her broadside to bear, and by firing over them
soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of
their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being again re-
stored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs, but
suspecting that some of the natives were lurking about with evil
designs, they repaired to the cave, where they found the chief who
had that day received a present from the captain. He came forth
with his wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It ap-
peared that one of the wounded Indians was a brother to this
chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove:



THE FIRST VOVAGE. 45



mortal; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he
was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and
ball; and he was also assured that upon any further hostilities
being committed, ball would be used. This interview terminated
very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the chief
and his companions.

Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the
island, when landing, and gaining an eminence, they had a very
agreeable and romantic view of a great number of small islands,
well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent
village approached unarmed, and testified great humility and sub-
mission. Some of the seamen on-shore, having forced their way
into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes, the captain
showed strict justice in punishing each offender with lashes 3 one
of them being refractory upon this occasion, and complaining of
the hardship of an Englishman being flogged for plundering an
Indian, received six additional lashes.

On Tuesday, the 5th of December, they weighed anchor, but ‘

were soon becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the
shore, were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every
moment to run upon breakers, which appeared above water not
more than a cable’s length distance. Indeed, they were so near
the land that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held
a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach:
They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation
by a fresh breeze suddenly springing up from the shore.

On the 7th, several canoes put off and followed the Zndeavour,

but a light breeze springing up they did not wait for them. On d,
the 17th, they came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, ,

which Captain Cook named North Cape. On the 27th, it blew a
gale from the east, accompanied with heavy showers of rain which
compelled them to bring the ship to, under her mainsail. The
gale continued till the 28th, when it fell about two o’clock in the
morning, but at eight increased to a hurricane, with a prodigious
sea ; at noon the gale somewhat abated, but with heavy squalls. |

January the Ist, 1770, at six in the morning, they tacked and
stood to the eastward, and on the 3rd they saw land, trending
away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It.is

CUM AhYyY

xe

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ay
vv

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76 COOK’S VOYAGES.



remarkable that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten
leagues to the westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues,
the distance they were now from Cape Brett.

On the gth they saw high land to the east-north-east, which the
captain named Albatross Point. At about two leagues distance
from this point, to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable
high mountain, equal in height to that of Teneriffe. Its summit
was covered with snow, and it was named Mount Egmont. At
this place Captain Cook proposed to careen the ship, and also
to take in a fresh supply of wood and water; accordingly, on the
rth, at daybreak, they steered for an inlet, when, it being almost
a calm, the ship was carried by a current or the tide within a
cable’s length of the shore, but she got clear by the assistance of
the boats. At two they anchored in a safe cove on the north-west
side of the bay, and moored in eleven fathoms of water, with a
soft bottom. Four canoes came off for the purpose, as we
imagined, of reconnoitring ; for none of the Indians would venture
on board except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank. His
countrymen expostulated with him, laid hold of him, and took
great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not
divert him from his purpose. He was received with the utmost
hospitality. Tupia and the.old man joined noses, according to
the custom of the country, and having received several presents,
he returned to his associates, who began to dance and laugh, and
then retired to their fortified village.

Captain Cook and other gentlemen now went on shore, where
they met with plenty of wood, and a fine stream of excellent water,
and on hauling the seine were very successful, having caught
three hundredweight of fish in a short time.

On the 16th the crew were employed in careening the ship,
when three canoes came off with a number of Indians, and
brought several of their women with them, a circumstance which)
was thought to be a favourable presage of their peaceable dis-
position ; but they soon gave proofs to the contrary by attempting
to stop the long-boat, when Captain Cook had recourse to the
old expedient of firing shot over their heads, which intimidated
them for the present. Tupia asked them if they had ever before
seen a ship so large as the Zndeavour, to which they replied in



THE FIRST VOVAGE. 77



the negative; nor had they heard that such a vessel had ever
been on their coast. The inhabitants catch their fish, which are
plentiful here, in cylindrical nets, extended by several hoops at
the bottom and contracted at the top. The fish going in to feed
upon the bait are caught in great abundance. There are also
birds of various kinds, and in great numbers.

Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander visited another
cove, about two miles from the ship. They found here a family
of Indians, who appeared greatly alarmed at their approach;
these people were cannibals, there being several human bones
that had lately been dressed and picked. They made no secret
of this abominable custom, but, with great composure, answered
Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, that his conjectures
were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by
signs that they thought human flesh delicious food. There was a
woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking
manner, and it appeared that she had thus wounded herself be-
cause her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.

Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which
they rated at a very high price. They seemed to pride them-
selves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a particular
pleasure in showing the manner in which they killed their enemies.
This was done by first knocking them down with their patoo-
patoos, and then ripping up their bellies.

On the 20th, in the morning, Mr. Banks purchased of the old
Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very unwilling to part
with. The skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains
were extracted, and, like the others, it was preserved from putre-
faction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and
the reluctance with which they bartered any, they were considered
as trophies of war and testimonials of their valour. Some of the
ship’s company, in their excursions, met with fortifications that
had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were sur-
rounded by two or three wide ditches, with a drawbridge, such as,
though simple in its construction, would answer every purpose
against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence
made with stakes fixed in the earth.

On the 24th they visited a hippah, or fort, which was situated



78 COOK’S VOYAGES.



on a, very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a very fine
natural arch, one side of which joined the land and the other rose
out of the sea. The inhabitants received them with great civility,
and very readily showed everything that was curious.

On the 25th the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on
shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were
among the creeks catching fish; they behaved very civilly, and
received some trifling. presents from the gentlemen, who were
loaded, by way of return, with the kisses and embraces of both
sexes, young and old. The next day, being the 26th, they made
another excursion, in order to survey, from the summit of a hill,
the strait which passes between the eastern and western seas.
Before their departure from this hill they erected a pyramid of
stones, and left some musket balls, small shot, and beads, as
memorials that this place had been visited by Europeans. On
the 27th and 28th they were engaged in making necessary repairs,
catching fish, and refitting the Hndeavour for her voyage.

On Tuesday, the 30th, some of the people who were sent out
early in the morning to gather celery, met with about twenty
Indians, among whom were five or six women whose husbands
had lately been made captives. They sat down upon the ground
together and cut many parts of their bodies in a most shocking
manner with shells and sharp stones, in testimony of their exces-
sive grief. In the meantime their male companions paid not the
least attention to them, but with the greatest unconcern imagin-
able employed themselves in repairing their huts.

The carpenter having prepared two posts, they were set up as
memorials, being inscribed with the date of the year, and the month,
and the ship’s name. One of them was erected at the watering-place,
with the union jack hoisted at the top, and the other in the island
that lies nearest the sea, called by the natives Motuara; and the
inhabitants being informed that these posts were set up to acquaint
other adventurers that the Zxdeavour had touched this place, they
promised never to destroy them. Captain Cook named this inlet
Queen Charlotte’s Sound, and took possession of it in the name
> of his sovereign.

On the 5th of February they got under weigh, but the wind
soon falling, came to anchor a little above Motuara.





YE FIRST VOYAGE. 79

f



On the following morning the Zndeavour sailed out of the bay,
which, from the savage custom of eating human flesh common to
its people, the ship’s company called Cannibal_Bay. The in-
habitants, who numbered about 400, are scattered along the coast,
and upon any appearance of danger retire to their hippahs, or
forts. They are poor, and their canoes are without ornaments.
The traffic with them was wholly for fish; but they had some
knowledge of iron, which the natives of other parts had not.

The Lndeavour stood over to the eastward, and was carried by
the current close to one of the islands at the entrance of Queen
Charlotte’s Sound. They were every moment in danger of being
dashed to pieces against the rock, but after having veered out 150
fathoms of cable, the ship was brought up, when the rocks were
not more than two cables’ length distant. In this situation they
remained, being obliged to wait for the tide’s ebbing, which did
not take place till after midnight.

On the 7th, at eight o’clock in the morning, they weighed
anchor, and a fresh breeze, with an ebb tide, quickly bore them
through the strait.

The next morning they were off Cape Palliser, and found that
the land stretched away to the north-eastward of Cape Turnagain.
In the afternoon three canoes, ornamented. like those on the
northern coast, put off from the shore. There was no difficulty
in persuading the Indians to come on board, and they demeaned
themselves very civilly, a mutual exchange of presents taking
place. Their dress resembled that of the natives of Hudson’s
Bay. One old man was tattooed in a very peculiar manner, and
had likewise a red streak across his nose, while his hair and beard
were remarkable for their whiteness. His upper garment was
made of flax, and had a wrought border, and underneath he wore
a sort of cloth petticoat. Teeth and green stones decorated his
ears, and it was concluded, from his deportment, that he was a
person of distinguished rank among his countrymen.

On the 14th about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came
Within a stone’s throw of the ship. As they surveyed her with
surprise, Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to come nearer,
but this they could not be prevailed upon todo. On this account
the place was denominated the island of Lookers-on.



80 COOK’S VOVAGES.



On the 4th of March several whales and seals were seen. On
the gth they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon after another ledge,
at three leagues distance from the shore, which they passed in the
night to the northward, and at daybreak observed the others
under the bows. Proceeding northward, the next day they fell
in with a barren rock about fifteen miles from the mainland, of
great height, and apparently about a mile in circumference; this
was named Solander’s Island.

On the 13th they discovered a bay, containing several islands,
where, if there was depth of water, shipping might find shelter
from all winds. Dusky Bay was the appellation given to it by
the captain, and five high-peaked rocks, for which it was remark-
able, gave to a point the name of Five Fingers. They had now
passed the whole north-west coast of Tovy Poenamoo,. which had
nothing worthy of observation but a ridge of naked and barren
rocks covered with snow. As far as the eye could reach the
prospect was wild, craggy, and desolate. Having sailed round
the whole. of this inhospitable shore by the 27th, Captain Cook
determined to depart. He accordingly went on shore in the
long-boat, and having found a place suitable for mooring the
ship, and a good watering-place, the crew began to fill their
casks, while the carpenter was employed in cutting wood. The
captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went in the pinnace to
examine the bay and the neighbouring country. J.anding there
they found several plants of a species which was before unknown
to them. No inhabitants appeared, but they saw several huts,
which seemed to have been long deserted. Sufficient wood and
water having ‘been taken on board, the vessel was ready to sail by
the time that they returned in the evening, and it was resolved to
steer for the coast of New Holland, and return by the way of the
East Indies,

On the 31st March they took their departure from an eastern
point they named Cape Farewell; the bay from which they sailed
was called Admiralty Bay, and the two capes, Cape Stephens and
Cape Jackson, after the two secretaries of the Board of Admiralty.
They called a bay between the island and Cape Farewell, Blind
Bay, which was supposed to have been the same that was called
Murderer’s Bay by Abel Jansen Tasman, who first discovered New



-) THE FIRST VOYAGE. 81

sv,
a —

* ~ Zealand in L December, 10425 but though he named it Staten Island,
~ 4) wishing to take possession of it for the States- -General, yet, being

“attacked by the Indians, he never went on shore to effect his pur-
pose. The coast being now more accurately examined, was
discovered to consist of two islands (now known as New Zealand),
which were before thought to be a part of the southern continent
so much sought for. They are situated between the 34th and
48th degrees of south latitude, and between the 18rst and 194th
degrees of west longitude. The northern island is called by the
, The former, th though oGnnons in some olde is well Wooded:
_and in every valley there is a rivulet. The soil in those valleys is
light but fertile, and well adapted for the plentiful production of
all fruits, plants, and corn of Europe.

The sea that washes these islands abounds with delicate and
wholesome fish. Wherever the vessel came to anchor, enough
were caught with hook and line only to supply the whole ship’s
company ; and when they fished with nets, every man in the ship
salted as much as supplied him for several weeks. There were
many sorts of fish here which they had never before seen, and
which the sailors named according to their fancies.

About 400 species of plants were found, all of which are un-
known in England, except garden night-shade, sow thistle, two or
three kinds of ferns, and one or two sorts of grass. They found
wild celery and a kind of cress in great abundance on the sea-
shore; and of eatable plants, raised by cultivation only, cocoas,
yams, and sweet potatoes, of which there were large plantations.

There is only. one shrub or tree which produces fruit, a kind of
almost tasteless berry; but there grows on the islands a plant
which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two
kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow and the
other a deep red, and both resembling the leaves of flags. Of
these the natives make lines and cordage much stronger than
anything of the kind in Europe. They likewise split these leaves
into breadths, and by tying slips together form their fishing nets.
Their common apparel, by a simple process, is also made from
them, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from the
fibres.





82 COOK’S VOYAGES,



The natives are as large as the finest races of Europe. Their
complexions are brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard,
and they are stout and well-shaped. As the dress of both sexes
is similar, the voice chiefly distinguishes the women from the
men. The latter are active in a high degree; their hair is black
and their teeth white and even. They appear to be of a gentle
disposition, and treat each other with the utmost kindness; but
they are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity
with the rest. Notwithstanding the custom of eating their
enemies, the circumstances and temper of these people is in
favour of those who might wish to become settlers.

These Indians anoint their hair with oil melted from the fat of
fish or birds. The poorer people use that which is rancid, so that
they have a very disagreeable smell ; but those of superior rank use
fresh oil. . They have combs made of bone and wood, which are
considered as an ornament when stuck upright in the hair. The
men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and
adorn it with the feathers of birds, which they also sometimes
place on each side of the temples. The hair of the women is
worn either flowing over the shoulders or cut short.

Both sexes, but the men more frequently, mark their bodies
with black stains, called amoco. In general the women only
stain the lips, but sometimes mark other parts with black patches.
The men, on the contrary, put on additional marks from year to
year, so that the bodies of those who are very old are almost
covered. Exclusive of the amoco, they mark themselves with
furrows. These furrows make a hideous appearance, the edges
being indented and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the
face are drawn in the spiral form, both cheeks being marked ex-
actly alike, while the paintings on their bodies resemble filigree
work and the foliage in old chased ornaments ; but no two faces
or bodies are painted exactly after the same model. The people
of New Zealand likewise paint their bodies, by rubbing them with
red ochre, either dry or mixed with oil. Their dress is formed of
the leaves of the flags, split into slips, which are interwoven and
made into a kind of matting, the ends, which are seven or eight
inches in length, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of
this matting, being tied over the shoulders, reaches tothe knees ;































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































NEW ZEALAND pag.









THE FIRST VOYAGE. 85



the other piece, wrapped round the waist, falls almost to the
ground. The men wear the lower garment only at particular
times.

They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting or
shag above mentioned, one of which is as coarse, but beyond all
comparison stronger than the English canvas ; the other, which is
formed of the fibres of the plant, drawn into threads, which cross
and bind each other, resembles the matting on which our dishes
are placed at table.

They have a few dresses ornamented with feathers, and one
man was seen covered wholly with those of the red parrot.

The women never tie their hair on the top of their heads, nor
adorn it with feathers, and are less anxious about dress than the
men ; their lower garment is bound tight round them, except
when they go out fishing, and then they are careful that the men
shall not see them.

The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched so as
to admit a man’s finger. The ornaments of their ears are
feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood ; a great many
of them made use of the nails given them by the English for this
purpose ; and the women sometimes adorn their ears with the
white down of the albatross. They likewise suspend to their ears
chisels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of
their deceased friends. The arms and ankles of the women are
adorned with shells and bones, or anything else through which
they can pass a string. The men wear slung round the neck, by
a string, a piece of green talc or whalebone, with the representa-
tion of a man carved on it. One man had the gristle of his nose
perforated, and a feather passing through it projected over each
‘cheek.

These people show less ingenuity in the structure of their
houses than in anything else belonging to them. ‘They are from
16 to 24 feet long, ro or 12 wide, and 6 or 8 in height. The
frame is of light sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made
of dry grass, firmly knit together. Some of them are lined with
the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole,
which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high
enough to admit a person crawling on his hands and knees, and



86 COOK'S VOVAGES. ©



the roof is sloping. There is a square hole near the door, serv-
ing both for window and chimney, near which is the fireplace.
A plank is placed over the door, adorned with a sort of carving,
and this they consider as an ornamental piece of furniture. The
side walls and roof, projecting 2 or 3 feet beyond the walls at each
end, form a sort of portico, where benches are placed to sit on.
The fire is made in the middle of a hollow square on the floor,
which is inclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls,
their beds consisting of straw laid on the ground. The wealthier,
or those having large families, have three or four houses, inclosed
in their courtyard. Their clothes, arms, feathers, some ill-made
tools, and a chest in which all these are deposited, form all the
furniture of the inside of the house. Their hammers to beat fern
root, gourds to hold water, and baskets to contain provisions, are
placed without the house. One house was found near 4o feet
long, 20 wide, and 14 high. Its sides were adorned with carved
planks, of workmanship superior to the rest; but the building
appeared to have been left unfinished.

The canoes of this country are long and narrow; the larger
sort seem built for war, and will hold from 30 to roo men. One
of those of Tolaga measured nearly 70 feet in length, 6 in width,
and 4 in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of
three lengths, about 2 or 3 inches thick, and tied firmly together
with strong plaiting ; each side was formed of one entire plank,
about 12 inches broad, and about 14 inch thick, which was fitted to
the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Several thwarts
were laid from one side to the other, to which they were securely
fastened, in order to strengthen the canoes. Some few of their
canoes at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, were all made entirely of
one trunk of a tree, which is made hollow by fire ; but by far the
greater part are built after the manner above described. The
smaller boats, which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned at
head and stern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are
composed of white shells; a tongue of enormous size is thrust
out of the mouth, and the whole face is a picture of absolute de-
formity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are
ornamented with open work, and covered with fringes of black
feathers, which gave the whole an air of perfect elegance ; the



THE FIRST VOVAGE. 87



side boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished
with tufts of white feathers. These vessels are rowed by paddles,
between 5 and 6 feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval,
gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle; and the velocity
with which they row with these paddles is very surprising. Their
sails are composed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended
between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each side ;
two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole, serve instead of sheets.
The vessels are steered by two men, each having a paddle, and
sitting in the stern; but they can only sail before the wind, in
which direction they move with considerable swiftness. ;

These New Zealanders use axes, adzes, and chisels, with which
last they likewise bore holes. The chisels are made of jasper, or
of the bone of a man’s arm ; their adzes and axes of a hard black
stone. They use their small jasper tools till they are blunted, and
then throw them away, having no instrument to sharpen them
with. The Indians at Tolaga having been presented with a piece
of glass, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck.
A small bit of jasper was thought to have been the tool they used
in drilling it.

Their tillage is exceilent. A long narrow stake, sharpened to
an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across at a little distance
above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with
the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The soil
being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this instru-
ment alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in ex-
tent.

The seine or large net, which has already been noticed, is pro-
duced by their united labour, and is probably the joint property
of the whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone, and
they have baskets of wicker-work to hold the fish. Their warlike
weapons are spears, darts, battleaxes, and the patoo-patoo. The
spear, which is pointed at the end, is about 16 feet in length, and
they hold it in the middle, so that it is difficult to parry a thrust
with it. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the battle is
hand to hand. They trust chiefly in the patoo-patoo, which is
fastened to their wrist by a strong strap, that it may not be wrested
out of their hands. These are worn in the girdles of people of



88 COOK'S VOYAGES.

superior rank as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff
of distinction, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is
formed of a whale’s rib, is quite white, and adorned with carving,
feathers, and the hair of their dogs. Sometimes they have a
stick 6 feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise ornamented
like a military staff. This honourable mark of distinction was
commonly in the hands of the aged, who were also more daubed
with the amoco. When they came to attack the English, one or
more of these old men thus distinguished were in each canoe.
It was their custom to stop 50 or 60 yards from the ship, when
the chief, rising from his seat, put on a dog’s skin garment, and
holding out his decorated staff, directed them how to proceed.
When they were too far from the ship to reach it with their missile
weapons, they uttered cries of defiance. Thus they would ap-
proach the ship gradually till they were close alongside, still talk-
ing at intervals in a peaceable manner, and answering any ques-
tions that were asked them. Then again their menaces were
repeated, till, encouraged by the supposed timidity of the En-
deavour’s people, they began the war-song and dance, the sure
prelude to an attack, which always followed, and sometimes con-
tinued till the firing of small shot repulsed them; but at others,
they vented their passion by throwing a few stones against the
ship by way of insult.

In the war-dance their limbs are distorted and their faces
agitated with strange convulsive motions : their tongues hang out
of their mouths to an amazing length, and their eyelids are drawn
so as to forma circle round the eye. At the same time they
shake their darts, brandish their spears, and wave their patoo-
patoos to and fro in the air. There is an admirable vigour and
activity in their dancing , and in their song they keep time with
such exactness, that sixty or a hundred paddles, when struck
| against the sides of their boats at once, make only a single report.
In times of peace they sometimes sing in a manner resembling
the war-song, but the dance is omitted. The women, whose
voices are exceedingly melodious and soft, sing likewise in a
musical but mournful manner. One of their instruments of
music is a shell, from which they produce a sound not unlike that
made with a common horn; the other is a small wooden pipe



THE FIRST VOYAGE. &9

not superior in sound to a child’s whistle. They were never
heard to sing, or to produce any measured notes like what we call
a tune.

As to the horrid custom of eating human flesh, prevalent
among them, in most of the caves were found flesh and the bones
of men ; and some of the heads that were brought on board had
false eyes and ornaments in their ears, as if alive. The head pur-
chased by Mr. Banks, and sold with great reluctance, was that of
a young person, and by the contusions on one side, appeared to
have received many violent blows.

The hippahs, or villages of these people, of which there are
several between the Bay of Plenty and Queen Charlotte’s Sound,
are all fortified. In these they constantly reside; but near
Tolaga, Hawk’s Bay, and Poverty Bay, only single houses are to
be seen, at a considerable distance from each other.

Both sexes eat together. The men cultivate the ground, make
nets, catch birds, and go out in their canoes to fish; while the
women are employed in weaving cloth, collecting shell-fish, and
dressing food.

As to the religion of these people, they acknowledge one
Supreme Being and several subordinate Deities. Their mode of
worship could not be learned, nor was any place proper for that
purpose seen. There was, indeed, a small square area encom-
passed with stones, in the middle of which hung a basket of fern
roots on one of their spades. This, they said, was an offering to
their gods, to obtain from them a plentiful crop of provisions.
They gave the same account of the origin of the world, and the
production of mankind, asthe inhabitants of Otaheite.

A great similitude was observed between the dress, furniture,
boats, and nets of the New Zealanders and the inhabitants of the
South Sea Islands, which would seem to denote a common
origin. Indeed, the inhabitants of these different places have a
tradition that their ancestors sprang from another country many
years since, and they both agree that this country was called
Heawige. Tupia, when he accosted the people here in the
language of his own country, was perfectly understood, although
the dialect is different.

On Saturday, the 31st of March, 1770, the Hndeavour sailed



90 COOK’S VOYAGES.

from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, having fine weather and a
fair wind. They steered westward with a fresh gale till the
and of April, when they saw a tropic bird, a sight very unusual
in so high a latitude. On the rsth, they saw a gannet; ard as
this bird never goes far from land, they sounded all night, but
had no ground at 130 fathoms. The day following, a small land
bird perched on the rigging, but they had ne ground at 120
fathoms. On the morning of the roth, they discovered land, to
the southernmost point of which they gave the name of Point
Hicks, in compliment to the first lieutenant, who discovered it.
At noon, in lat. 37° 5’ S. and 210° 29’ W. long., they saw
another remarkable point of land, distant about four leagues.
Captain Cook gave it the name of Ram Head Point, from its
remarkable resemblance to the promontory of the same name at
the entrance of Plymouth Sound. The land appeared to be low
and level, the shore white and sandy, and the inland parts
covered with wood and verdure. At this time they saw three
water-spouts. -In the evening, at six o’clock, the northernmost
point of land, which they named Cape Howe, was distant about
two leagues. On the 27th they saw several of the inhabitants
walking along the shore, four of them carrying a cance on their
shoulders; but as they did not attempt to come off to the ship,
the captain took Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia in the
yawl to that part of the shore where they saw the natives, near
which four smail canoes lay close inland) The Indians sat on
the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the land,
when they ran away into the woods. The surf beating violently
on the beach, prevented the boat from landing. At five in the
evening they returned to the ship, and a light breeze springing up,
she sailed to the northward, where they discovered several people
on shore. The pinnace having been sent ahead to sound, ar-
rived near the spot where the Indians had stationed themselves,
on which one of them hid himself among the rocks near the
landing-place, and the others retreated up the hill. The pinnace
keeping along the shore, the Indians walked nearly in a line with
her; they were armed with long pikes, and a weapon resembling
a scimitar, and by various signs and words invited the boat's
crew to land. Those who did not follow the boat, having ob-







































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































COOK’S LANDING.



TWO NATIVES DISPUTE CAPTAIN







THE FIRST VOVAGE. 93

served the approach of the ship, brandished their weapons and
threw themselves into threatening attitudes.

The Endeavour anchored opposite a village of about eight
houses, whereupon Captain Cook manned the boats and took
Tupia with him, but had no sooner come near the shore, than
two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land.
The captain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they
picked up with great delight. He then made signals that he
wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them
that no injury was intended. They now made signs to the boat’s
crew to land, but no sooner had Captain Cook done so, than the
two Indians came again to oppose them. A musket was now
fired between them, on the report of which one of them dropped
a bundle of lances, which he immediately snatched up again in
great haste. One of them threw a stone at the boat, on which
the captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired,
which, wounding the eldest of them in the legs, he retired hastily
to one of the houses that stood at some distance. The people
in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound this man had
received would put an end to the contest. In this, however, they
were mistaken, for he immediately returned with an oval-shaped
kind of shield, painted white in the middle, and with two holes in
it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and
both discharged their lances at the boat’s crew, but did not wound
any of them. Another musket was now fired at them, on which
they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. The crew
now went up to the huts, in one of which they found the children,
who had secreted themselves behind some bark. Having thrown
several pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other things into the

_ hut, they took several of their lances and then re-embarked in the
boat. They now sailed to the north point of the bay, and found
plenty of fresh water. Some men having been sent to get wood
and water, they no sooner came on board to dinner, than the
natives crowded down to the place, and examined the casks with
great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the
people were on shore in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives,
all armed, advanced within a trifling distance of them, and then
stopped, while two of their number approached still nearer. Mr.









of COGS: VOVAGES.



Hicks, the commanding officer on shore, went towards them, with
presents in his hands, and endeavoured by every possible means to
assure them of his friendly intention, but to no purpose, for they
retired before he came up to them. In the evening, Messrs.
Banks and Solander went with the captain to a cove north of the
bay, where they caught between three and four hundredweight of
fish, at four hauls.

On Tuesday, May the rst, the south point of the bay was named
Sutherland Point, one of the seamen of the name of Sutherland, who
died that day, being buried on shore. More presents were left in
the huts, such as looking-glasses, combs, and other articles, but
the former ones had not been taken away. Making an excursion
about the country, they found it agreeably variegated with wood

and lawn, the trees being straight and tall, and without under-

wood. The second lieutenant, Mr. Gore, who was dredging for
oysters, saw some Indians, who made signs for him to come on
shore, which he declined; having finished his business, he sent
the boat away, and went by land with a midshipman to join the
party who were getting water. On their way they met with more
than twenty of the natives, who followed them so close as to come
within a few yards of them; Mr. Gore stopped and faced them,
on which the Indians stopped also, and when he proceeded again,
they followed him ; but they did not attack him, though each had
a lance. The Indians coming in sight of the water-casks, stood
at the distance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his
companions reached their shipmates in safety. Two or three of

‘the waterers now advanced towards the Indians, but observing

they did not retire, they here imprudently turned about, and re-
treated hastily. This apparent mark of cowardice emboldened
the savages, who discharged four of their lances at the fugitives,
which fell beyond them. They now stopped to pick up the
lances; on which the Indians retired in their turn. At this
instant the captain came up, with Messrs. Banks and Solander.

Tupia having learned to shoot, frequently strayed alone to shoot
parrots, and the Indians constantly fled from him with as much
precipitation as from the English. The name of Botany Ba Bay was
given to this place from the great number of plants collected by
Messrs. Banks and Solander. .



THE FIRST VOVAGE. 9

.e7 8

While the captain remained in the harbour, the English colours
were displayed on shore daily, and the name of the ship, with the
date of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where they
took in water. On Sunday, the 6th of May, they sailed from
Botany Bay, and at noon were off a harbour, which was called
Port Jackson, and in the evening near a bay to which they gave
the name of Broken Bay. The next day, at noon, the northern-
most land in sight projected so as to justify the calling it Cape
Three Points. As they proceeded northward from Botany Bay
the land appeared high and well covered with wood. In the
afternoon of the 13th they discovered some rocky islands, anda
day later, by the assistance of their glasses, discerned about a
score of Indians, each loaded with a bundle.

Early in the morning of the 23rd, Captain Cook, attended by
several gentlemen and Tupia, went on shore to examine the coun-
try. They landed within the point of a bay, which led into a
large lagoon, by the sides of which grew the true mangrove, where
they found many nests of ants_of a singular kind, as green _as
grass. When the branches were moved they came forth in great
numbers, and bit the disturber most severely. These trees like-
wise afforded shelter for immense numbers of green caterpillars,
whose bodies were covered with hairs.

On Thursday, the 24th, they made sail out of the bay, and on
the day following were abreast of a point, which, being immedi-
ately under the tropic, the captain named Cape Capricorn. On the
west side of the point they saw an amazing number of large birds,
resembling the pelican, some of which were near five feet high.

On Monday, the 28th, they sailed to the northward, and got
among another cluster of islands. Here they were greatly alarmed,
having on a sudden but three fathoms of water, in a rippling tide;
they immediately put the ship about, and hoisted out the boat in
search of deeper water ; after which they stood to the west under
easy sail, and in the evening came to the entrance of a bay. In
the afternoon, having sounded round the ship, and found that
there was water sufficient to carry her over the shoal, they weighed,
and stood to the westward, having sent a boat ahead to sound,
and at six in the evening anchored in ten fathoms, with a sandy
bottom, at about two miles from the mainland.



96 COOK’S VOYAGES.



On Tuesday, the 29th, Captain Cook, intending to lay the ship
ashore, and clean her bottom, landed with the master in search of
a convenient place for that purpose; in this excursion Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander accompanied them; several places were found
suitable for laying ashore, but, to their great disappointment, they

‘could meet with no fresh water. They proceeded, however, up
the country, and in the interior parts found gum trees, on the
branches of which were white ants’ nests, formed of clay, as big
as a bushel. On another tree, they saw black ants, which per-
forated all the twigs, and after eating out the pitch, formed their
lodgings in the hollows, notwithstanding which the trees were in
a flourishing condition. They also saw many thousands of butter-
tts, which covered every bough in incredible numbers.

On Wednesday, the 3oth, Captain Cook and other gentlemen
went on shore, and having gained the summit of a hill, took a
survey of the coast and the adjacent islands, which being done,
the captain proceeded with Dr. Solander up an inlet that had been
discovered the preceding day; but the weather proving unfavour-

‘ able, and from fear of being lost among the shoals in the night,
they returned to the ship, having seen during the whole day only
two Indians, who followed the boat a considerable way along the
shore. As no water was to be found in their different excursions,
the captain called the inlet where the ship lay Thirsty Sound.

On the ist_of June they got under weigh, and had now quite
opened the western inlet, which they distinguished by the name
of Broad Sound. A point of land which forms the north-west
entrance they named Cape Palmerston, lying 21° 30’ S. lat. and
210° 54’ W. long. Between this cape and Cape To is
the bay which they called the Bay of Inlets. At eight in the
evening they anchored in 11 fathoms, with a sandy bottom, about
two leagues from the mainland.

Saturday, the znd, they made sail, and at noon saw a high pro-
montory which they named Cape Hillsborough. It bore W. half
N., distant seven miles. The land appeared to abound in wood
and herbage, and is diversified with hills, plains, and valleys. A
chain of islands large and small are situated at a distance from
the coast and under the land, from some of which they saw smoke
ascending in different places.







THE FIRST VOVAGE. 97

On Sunday, the grd, they discovered a point of land, which
they called Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hills-
borough a bay, to which they gave the name of Repulse Bay.
By the help of their glasses, they discovered two men and a
woman on one of the islands, and a canoe with an outrigger like
those at Otaheite. They named the islands Cumberland Islands,
in honour of the Duke; and a passage which they had discovered
was called Whit-Sunday Passage, from the day on which it was seen.
At daybreak, on Monday, the 4th, they were abreast of a point
which they called Cape Gloucester. Names were also given this —
day to several other places, namely, Holbourne Isle, Edgcumbe.
Bay, and Cape Upstart, which last was so called because it rises .
abruptly from the low lands that surround it. Inland are some
hills or mountains which, like the cape, afford but a barren
prospect.

On Tuesday, the 5th,.they were about four leagues from land,
and continued to steer W.N.W. as the land lay, till noon on the
6th, when their latitude by observation being 19° 1’ S., they had
ae mouth of a bay all open, distant about two enone This
they named Cleveland Bay, and the east point Cape Cleveland,
now forming part of the colony of Queensland. The west, which
had the appearance of an island, was called Magnetical Island,
‘because the compass did not traverse well when they were near
it. They are both high, as is the mainland between them, the
whole forming a surface the most rugged, rocky, and barren of
any they had seen upon the coast. Yet it was not uninhabited,
for they saw smoke in several parts of the bottom of the bay.

Thursday, the 7th, at daybreak, they were abreast of the eastern
part of this land, and, in the afternoon, saw several columns of
smoke, also canoes, and some trees.

On Friday, the 8th, they stood away for the northernmost point
tween this and Magnetical Isle the shore forms Halifax Bay, bes
affords shelter from all winds. At six in the evening they were
abreast of a point of land which they named Cape Sandwich,
From hence the land trends west, and afterwards north, forming
a fine large bay, which was named Rockingham Bay. They now

ranged northward along the shore, towards a cluster of islands,
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CAPTAIN COOK’S
THREE VOYAGES ROUND THE
WORLD

CAPTAIN COOK’S

THREE VOYAGES ROUND
THE WORLD

WITH A SKETCH OF HIS LIFE

EDITED BY

LIEUTENANT CHARLES R. LOW

(Late) H.M. Indian Navy, Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, and
Member of the Royal United Service Institution

A NEW EDITION

WITH TWELVE PLATES IN COLOURS FROM DESIGNS BY GORDON BROWNE,
; “AND
TWENTY-EIGHT ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, LIMITED
BROADWAY, LUDGATE HILL
MANCHESTER AND. NEW YORK
1895
CAPTAIN COOK’S
THREE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD.



INTRODUCTION.

Amonc the most remarkable voyages of discovery of which we
have record, those made by the celebrated Captain Cook hold in
popular estimation, and deservedly so, the first place. This is
due as much to the magnitude and importance of his discoveries
as to the interest of the incidents he details; the graphic and
accurate, yet simple, descriptions of the people and places he
visited ; and the sad fate that ultimately overtook him, which has
cast around his name a halo of romantic interest as one of the
martyrs of scientific exploration.

James Cook was born in November, 1728, at Marton, in
Cleveland, near Great Ayton, in Yorkshire. He was of. humble
parentage, and, when only two years of age, his father, who was
a day labourer to a farmer, removed to Great Ayton, where he
was employed in the same capacity by Mr. Thomas Scottowe,

At first young Cook assisted his father in the different branches
of husbandry, but, at thirteen, was placed under the care of Mr.
Pullen, the village schoolmaster at Ayton, where he learned
arithmetic and. book-keeping, and is said to have displayed a
remarkable aptitude for figures.

About January, 1745, when James Cook was seventeen years
of age, his father bound him apprentice to learn the grocery and
6 COOK’S VOYAGES.

haberdashery business, at Snaith, about ten miles from Whitby ;
but after a year and a half’s servitude, having contracted a strong
predilection for the sea, his master was willing to indulge him in
following the bent of his inclination, and agreed to cancel the
indentures. Accordingly, in July, 1746, the future circum-
navigator was bound apprentice to Mr. J. Walker, of Whitby, for
the term of three years, which he served to the full satisfaction of
his employer. He first sailed on board the Sreelove, chiefly
employed in the coal trade between Newcastle and London ; and
in May, 1748, was employed in assisting to rig and fit out for sea
the Three Brothers, a ship of 300 tons, thus acquiring that
intimate knowledge of the rigger’s art which forms so important
an element in the education of a sailor. After performing two
coaling voyages in this ship, she was chartered by the Govern-
ment as a transport, and conveyed troops to Dublin, thence em-
barking other soldiers to Liverpool. Cook continued to serve in
her, in the Norway trade, until the expiration of his apprentice-
ship, and, in the spring of 1750, we find him shipping as a seaman
on board the Maria, under the command of Captain Gaskin; in
her he performed some voyages in the Baltic trade. In 1752,
Mr. Walker, of Whitby, was glad to avail himself of his services
as mate of one of his ships, called the Friendship, and he gave so
much satisfaction to the owner that, it is said, he was offered the
post of master of the vessel, which, however, he declined. Hence-
forth his services were devoted to his country.

In the spring of 1755, hostilities broke out between this country
and France, and strenuous efforts were made to man the ships of
war. As press-warrants had been issued, Mr. Cook, whose ship
then lay in the Thames, afraid of being pressed, at first resolved
to conceal himself ; but afterwards, reflecting on the difficulties of
doing so, he adopted the resolution of entering the navy as a
volunteer, “having a mind,” as he expressed himself, “to try his
fortune that way.” In pursuance of this design he repaired to a
house of rendezvous in Wapping, and entered on board the Eagle,
of 60 guns, at that time commanded by Captain Hamer ; on the
appointment, in the following October, of Captain (afterwards Sir
Hugh) Palliser to the command of this ship, Cook’s diligence and
attention to the duties of his profession, although in the humble
INTRODUCTION. . 7



capacity of a foremast hand, attracted the notice of that discern-
ing and intelligent commander, and he afforded him every en-
couragement. Cook’s meritorious conduct also came to the ears
of his friends in his native county, and representations were made
to his captain by the Member for Scarborough, which resulted in
his being recommended for a master’s warrant on board one of
His Majesty’s ships. After some delay he was appointed master
of the Mercury, and proceeded in her to North America, and was
of signal service during the reduction of Quebec by the combined
military and naval expedition under General Wolfe and Admiral
Sir Charles Saunders ; as is well known, the chief credit of that
famous exploit fell to the lot of the sister service, which covered
itself with glory, though at the sad cost of the loss of Wolfe, whose
death dimmed the lustre of even so great a victory.

At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his
charge the execution of services of the first importance in the
naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Mont-
morency, conducted the embarkation to the Heights of Abraham,
and examined the passage, and laid buoys for the security of the
large ships in proceeding up the river. He was employed for
several nights taking soundings opposite the French camp at
Montmorency, until at length he was discovered by the enemy,
who sent a number of canoes, filled with Indians, to surround
him ; and he narrowly escaped capture by pulling for the Isle of
Orleans, the Indians seizing the stern of his boat as he sprang
ashore. The courage and address with which he acquitted him-
self in these services, and the admirable completeness of the plan
of the channel and its soundings, which he furnished to the ad-
miral, gained him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Saunders
and his successor, Lord Colville, who continued his zealous
patrons during the remainder of their lives.

After the conquest of Canada, Mr. Cook was appointed, on
the 2nd of September, 1759, master of the orthumberland, bear-
ing the broad pennant of Lord Colville, which lay, during the
ensuing winter, at Halifax. But Cook, whose chief anxiety was
to rise in his profession, resolved to qualify himself for promotion,
and counteract the deficiencies of his early education by applica-
tion to those sciences and branches of knowledge which are
8 ‘ COOK’S VOYAGES.



essential to success. Inspired by this noble ambition, instead of
devoting his spare time to amusements, he was engaged in im-
proving his mind. During the hard winter of 1759 he first read
Euclid, and applied himself to the study of mathematics and
astronomy, without any other assistance than was afforded him by
a few books and his own industry.

Mr. Cook’s commission as lieutenant was dated the 1st of
April, 1760. In September, 1762, we find him assisting at the
recapture of Newfoundland ; and subsequently, while the British
fleet lay at Placentia, he was engaged surveying the heights and
harbour in order that it might be put into a state of defence, a
task which he performed with such marked ability, as to attract
the favourable notice of the Governor of Newfoundland, Captain
(afterwards Admiral) Graves. Towards the close of the year,
Lieutenant Cook returned to England, and, on the 21st of
December, was married at Barking to Miss Batts, whose god-
father he was said to have been, although, it should be added,
there was only a difference of fourteen years in their ages. For
this lady, by whom he had six children, he entertained a tender af-
fection through life ; but, like all great seamen, he placed the requir-
ments of the public service before his personal predilections, and was
ever ready at the call of duty to resign the solace of her society for
years. In 1763 Lieut. Cook accompanied Captain Graves when he
went out for the second time as Governor of Newfoundland, and he
carried out a survey of its coasts, as well as of the islands of
Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded to this country by
France in the treaty of peace. He again returned to England,
but, early in the following year, accompanied his former captain,
Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been appointed Governor of New-
foundland and Labrador, and continued the prosecution of his
surveys of those coasts and of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. His
charts were considered admirable and most trustworthy, while he
did not confine his labours to marine surveying alone, but ex-
plored the interior of Newfoundland. In 1765 he was with Sir
William Burnaby on the Jamaica station ; he was employed by
the Admiral in carrying despatches to the Governor of Yucatan,
relative to the wood-cutters in the Bay of Honduras, and a record
of this mission, which he performed in an eminently satisfactory
INTRODUCTION. 9



manner, was published in 1769. Returning to Newfoundland, he
observed an eclipse of the sun on August 5th, 1766, an account
of which appears in the seventh volume of the Philosophical
Transactions of the Royal Society.

Lieutenant Cook returned to England, in 1767, when much in-
terest was felt by the astronomical and scientific world at the ap-
proaching transit of Venus over the sun’s disc in 1769. Acting
on the advice of Captain Wallis, who had just returned from his
voyage round the world, it was decided that Otaheite, in the
Society Islands, would be the most convenient spot for carrying
out the observations ; and, after some delay, Lieutenant Cook
was selected to command the expedition, which was fitted out
under the auspices of the Royal Society and the patronage of his
Majesty King George the Third and the Board of Admiralty,
whose instructions to him embraced the prosecution of discoveries
in those seas, which had been already partially explored by our
countrymen, Captains Wallis, Carteret, and Byron. These
officers, by their discoveries, had greatly contributed towards in-
creasing our knowledge of the islands in Polynesia ; but how far
the Pacific Ocean extended to the west, by what lands it was
bounded on that side, and the connection of those lands with
former discoveries, remained unknown until Cook, on his return
from his first voyage, brought back a solution of these points.

After Lieutenant Cook’s return from his first voyage, he was
promoted to Commander on the 19th August, 1771; and on the
gth of August, 1775, ten days after his arrival in England from
his second voyage, he was raised to the rank of Post-Captain in
the Royal Navy.

For the species of enterprise on which he was engaged during
these years, Captain Cook appears to have been eminently
qualified. The earliest habits of his life, the course of his
service, and the constant application of his mind, all conspired to
fit him for it, and gave him a degree of professional knowledge
which few officers had then or have since attained.

His frame and constitution were robust, inured to labour and
capable of undergoing the severest hardships. When necessity
required it, he could submit, uncomplainingly, to the coarsest and
most unpalatable food; and, indeed, temperance in him was
10 COOK’S VOYAGES.

scarcely a virtue, so great was the indifference with which he sub-
mitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of his mind
were of the same hardy, vigorous kind as those of his body. His
understanding was strong and_ perspicuous ; his judgment,
especially in professional matters, quick and sure. His designs
were bold, and, both in the conception and in the mode of
execution, bore evident marks of original genius. His courage
was cool and determined, and accompanied with an admirable
presence of mind in the moment of danger. His manners were
plain and unaffected ; his temper, it was said, was open to blame
on the score of hastiness and passion, but on the other hand he
was generous, benevolent, and humane.

Such was the outline of Captain Cook’s character; but its
most distinguishing feature was that unremitting perseverance in
the pursuit of his object, which was superior to the opposition of
dangers, difficulties, and hardships. During the long and tedious
voyages in which he was engaged, his eagerness and activity were
never in the least abated. No incidental temptations could de-
tain him for a moment; even those intervals of recreation which
sometimes unavoidably occurred, were submitted to by him with
a certain impatience whenever they could not be employed in
making further provision for the more effectual prosecution of his
designs. It is not necessary here to enumerate the instances in
which these qualities were displayed, as his whole life bore wit-
ness that he was the possessor of them ; but we will briefly state
the results of the great and important enterprises in which he was
engaged.

Perhaps no man ever made greater additions to our knowledge
of the twin sciences of geography and navigation than Captain
Cook. In his first voyage to the South Seas he discovered the
Society Islands ; determined the insularity of New Zealand ; dis-
covered the straits called after his name, which separate the two
islands, and made a complete survey of both.

With wonderful skill and perseverance, amidst perplexities,
difficulties, and dangers, he explored the eastern coast of Australia,
hitherto unknown, for an extent of twenty-seven degrees of lati-
tude, or upwards of 2,000 miles.

In his second expedition he traversed the southern hemisphere,
INTRODUCTION. II



between the fortieth and sixty-seventh degrees of latitude, having
sailed nearer to the South Pole than any previous navigator ; and
it was not until 1823, just fifty years later, that Weddell penetrated
214 miles further south, though it was reserved for the late Sir
James Clark Ross, in his memorable voyage in 1841, in Her
Majesty’s ships Hrebus and Terror—the same that carried Franklin
and his associates on their-last voyage—to prove the existence of
an antarctic continent, 450 miles in length, in 78° 4’.

During this voyage Captain Cook discovered New Caledonia,
one of the largest islands in the South Pacific, the island of
Georgia, and other islands, besides settling the situations of the
old and making several new discoveries.

But the third and last voyage was distinguished above the
others by the extent and importance of its results. Although he
had richly earned repose by reason of his great services in the
two former voyages, Cook voluntarily quitted the comfortable
quarters he had been allotted in Greenwich Hospital by the
bounty of the King, and once more embarked on the dangers
inseparable from the navigation of unknown seas, the dealing
with savage races, and the search for the mysterious .“ north-west
passage,” which had baffled so many of our most experienced
navigators, and which, seventy years later, was destined to engulf
the great Franklin and upwards of 100 gallant officers and seamen
at the moment when the secret was yielded up to their energetic
research.

Besides several smaller islands in the South Pacific, he dis-
covered, to the north of the equinoctial line, the group called the
Sandwich Islands, which, from their situation and productions,
have attained a position of importance not yet assumed by other
groups in Polynesia. He afterwards explored what had hitherto
remained unknown of the western coast of America, from the
latitude of 43° to 702 44’ north, containing an extent of 3,500

1 Strictly speaking, Cook was engaged in discovering the ‘‘ north-east ”
passage, from which point he attacked the great problem of Arctic navigation.
On this side Captain Beechey reached as far as 71° 25’, by which means a space
of about 150 miles only remained unexplored between Point Barrow, the N.E.
point reached by Captain Beechey, and Point Beechey, the N.W. limit of Sir

John Franklin’s land expeditions from the mouth of McKenzie’s River. This
interval was surmounted by the late Sir Robert McClure.
12 COOK’S VOYAGES.

miles, ascertained the proximity of the two great continents of
Asia and America, passed the straits between them, and surveyed
a considerable extent of coast on each side; and it was not until
1826 that Captain Beechey passed Cook’s farthest, and again,
many years later, Sir Robert McClure and Sir Richard Collinson.

But Cook was destined never to return to England, and, on
the 14th of February, 1779, on the shores of an island he had
given to the civilised world, this great mariner perished by the
daggers of a horde of savages whom it had been his utmost
endeavour to conciliate by kind and friendly treatment.

Those who are conversant with naval history need not be told
at how dear a rate the scientific advantages which are sought to
be attained through the medium of long voyages at sea have
always been purchased. Scurvy, that dreadful disorder which
is peculiar to this service, and whose ravages have marked the
tracks of discoverers, as witness the records of the voyages of
Lord Anson and other navigators, must have proved an insuper-
able obstacle to the prosecution of such enterprises, unless the
preservation of the lives of our seamen were deemed a matter of
no moment. It was reserved for Captain Cook to show the
world, by repeated trials, that voyages might be protracted to the
unusual length of three or even four years, in unknown regions,
and under every change and rigour of climate, not only without
affecting the health, but even without diminishing the probability
of life in the smallest degree. The method he pursued was fully
explained by himself in a paper which was read before the Royal
Society, in the year 1776, a few months after he quitted England
on his last voyage, on which occasion Sir Godfrey Copley’s gold
medal was awarded him ; and he also noted in his journal, up to
the time of his death, whatever improvements were suggested by
experience.

With respect to his professional abilities, Captain King, his
able lieutenant, well observes, “I shall leave them to the judg-
ment of those who are best acquainted with the nature of the
services in which he was engaged. They will readily acknowledge
that to have conducted three expeditions of so much danger and
difficulty, of so unusual a length, and in such a variety of situation,
with uniform and invariable success, must have required not only
INTRODUCTION. 3



a thorough and accurate knowledge of his business, but a power-
ful and comprehensive genius, fruitful in resources, and equally
ready in the application of whatever the higher and inferior calls
of the service required.”

Owing to the great care taken by Captain Cook of his men, and
the sanitary precautions he adopted, his voyages were distin-
guished among those of the century for the small loss incurred in
their prosecution. But the last was destined to be fatal to many
of the officers who sailed in the two ships, the Resolution and Dis-
covery. In addition to Captain Cook, killed on the rath of
February, 1779, Captain Clerke, who succeeded to the chief com-
mand, succumbed, at the age. of thirty-eight, to consumption,
from which he had suffered before he left England, on the 22nd
of August in the same year ; and Captain King, the accomplished
historian of the voyage after the death of Cook, died, at Nice, in
the autumn of 1784, of disease caused by the hardships and
vicissitudes of climate to which he had been exposed. King
George the Third was not forgetful of the services of his great
subject, whose discoveries shed no less glory on his reign than the
victories by sea and land, which we Englishmen regard with so
much pride and satisfaction. He settled a pension of £25 per
annum on each of the three surviving sons of the great circum-
navigator, and a pension of £200 a year on the widow.

This lady had soon cause to deplore the loss, in their country’s
service, of others only less dear to her than her gallant and
lamented husband. In October, 1780, the month when, by the
return of the Resolution and Discovery, Mrs. Cook was first made
aware of the irreparable loss she had sustained, her second son,
Nathaniel, sixteen years of age, was lost on board the Thunderer
man-of-war, which foundered in a gale of wind. The youngest
son, Hugh, a student at Christ’s College, Cambridge, died of
fever at the early age of seventeen, on the 21st of December, 1793 ;
and, on the 25th of January in the following year, the eldest son,
aged thirty-one, who bore his father’s name, and commanded the
Spitfire sloop-of-war, was driven to sea while attempting to board
his ship off Poole in a heavy gale, and perished, together with
the boat’s crew. His body was afterwards recovered, and con-
veyed to Spithead on board his own ship, whence it was removed to
14 COOK’S VOYAGES.

Cambridge, and buried by the side of his youngest brother, whose
funeral he had attended only six weeks before. Mrs. Cook was
herself brought to the brink of the grave by these accumulated
bereavements, but she recovered her health, and lived to the
extraordinary age of ninety-three, having survived her husband
fifty-six years. She died on the 13th of May, 1835, at her resid-
ence at.Clapham, to the poor of which she left a charitable be-
quest, and was buried in the middle aisle of St. Andrew’s the Great,
Cambridge, by the side of her two sons. Within the communion
rail of that church is a tablet, having an appropriate design de-
scriptive of naval discovery sculptured at the top, and below, a
shield, the device of a globe and a star, with the motto,
‘* Nil intentatum reliquit.”

On the tablet is the following inscription to the memory of
Captain Cook :—

IN MEMORY OF
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK,
Of the Royal Navy,
One of the most Celebrated Navigators that this or former ages can boast of ;
Who was killed by the natives of Owyhee in the Pacific Ocean,
On the 14th day of February, 1779, in the fifty-first year of his age.

In continuation of the above, is an inscription to his widow
and their sons, with the names and ages of three children who
died in infancy; and, on the slab in the middle aisle, beneath
which lie Mrs. Cook and her sons, is a brief record of their names
and ages at the date of decease.

But though it is a meet and proper thing that this country,
even by a cenotaph, should record its sense of the services and
devotion to duty of one of the noblest of its sons, yet more in-
terest attaches to the memorials that have been raised to our
great countryman on the scene of his labours and of his death.
Until within the past year, however, no suitable monument to the
memory of Captain Cook had been raised in the Sandwich
Island, though this remissness did not extend to the officers of
the Royal Navy, who have ever been proud of numbering the
name of James.Cook among the most distinguished in the long
roll of naval worthies. About 100 yards from the beach, where
he was so cruelly murdered, stands a portion of the trunk of a
INTRODUCTION. 15



cocoa-nut tree, set in a bed of loose stones and broken lava, and
bearing four plates of copper, upon which appear the following
inscriptions, rudely stamped, apparently with a punch. On
the largest of these, the following is the only portion that is now
decipherable :—-
‘“‘ This bay was visited by Her Majesty’s ship Carrysford, Right Honourable
Lord George Paulet.”
A second plate bears the following inscription :—
‘*This tree having fallen, was replaced on this spot by Her Majesty’s steam

vessel Cormorant, G. T. Gordon, Esq., Captain, which visited this spot, May
18, 1846.”

The third plate has the following inscription :—

“ This sheet and capping were put on by the Sparrow Hawk, September 16,
1839, in order to preserve this monument to the memory of Cook. Give this
a coat of tar.”

On the fourth plate the following may be deciphered :—

“Near this spot fell Captain James Cook, R.N., the renowned navigator,
who discovered this island 4.D. 1778 His Majesty’s ship, Zmogene, October
17th, 1837.”

Yet another rude memorial, supposed to be by the officers of
the Blonde, attests the estimation in which the name of Cook is
held by the Navy. About a mile from the bay, and at an
elevation of some 500 feet above the level of the sea, is a post,
about ten feet in height, set in rude blocks of lava, enclosed
within a wall of the same material, and bearing the following in-
scription upon a plate of copper :—

IN THE MEMORY OF
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N.,
Who discovered this island A.D. 1778,
This humble monument is erected by his fellow-countrymen, A.D. 1825.

These memorials to Cook displayed a just appreciation on the
part of our naval officers, but the means at their disposal were
limited ; and it was not until 1874 that a suitable monument was
erected to his memory. The “Honolulu Gazette,” of the 25th
of November of that year, records the circumstances under which
this was effected. The chief credit is due to Mr. Wodehouse,
the British Commissioner, who obtained the co-operation of the
Hawaiian Government, and Captain Cator, of Her Majesty’s ship
16 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Scout, who conveyed the architect and men and materials to the
spot in Karakakooa Bay where Captain Cook fell.

The monument is a plain obelisk, standing on a square base,
the whole being 27 feet in height, and constructed throughout of
a concrete composed of carefully screened pebbles and cement.

t stands on a level platform of lava, only a few feet distant
from and above high-water mark, and fifteen or twenty yards
from the stone or lava slab on which the great seaman stood
when struck down. ‘The site is the gift of the native Princess Like-
like, and the expense of the erection is partly borne by sub-
scribers in England, among whom are Admiral Richards, late
Hydrographer at the Admiralty, several officers who served under
him when he commanded H.M.S. Hecate, on this station, and
Lady Franklin, who it was natural should feel a peculiar interest
in one who, like her great husband, at the call of duty, left a
competence, a loving wife, and admiring friends, to perish in the
prosecution of nautical exploration.

On the seaward base of the obelisk is deeply cut the following
inscription :—

IN MEMORY OF THE GREAT CIRCUMNAVIGATOR
CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N.,

Who discovered these islands on the 18th of January, 1778, and fell near
this spot on the 14th of February, 1779.

This monument was erected in November, A.D. 1874,
By some of his fellow-countrymen.

The unveiling of the monument, which will be surrounded by
a fence or railing, took place on the 14th of November, 1874, in
presence of Mr. Wodehouse, Mr. Lischman, the architect, Captain
Cator and the officers of the Scout, and many foreign and native
visitors and residents.

But no monument is needed to the fame of the discoverer of
the Sandwich group, of New Caledonia, of Georgia, and other in-
ferior islands ; the explorer of the unknown coasts of New Zea-
land, of Australia, and of the West Coast of America as far as Icy
Cape. Among the names most cherished by his countrymen, is
that of the greatest navigator of all time, Captain James Cook,
whose unassuming, genuine character obtained for him the
honourable title of “ Orbis investigator acerrimus.”
THE FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK.

Durinc the past year the governments and scientific men of all
civilised nations were vying with each other as to which should
contribute most to the observation of one of the rarest and most
interesting of astronomical phenomena. Numberless expeditions
were organised under the auspices, and at the expense, of govern-
ments, learned societies, and munificent private individuals, and
were despatched to some of the most remote and inaccessible
spots and islands on the face of the globe, for the purpose of ob-
serving the transit of Venus over the sun’s disc.

Much more humble were the efforts made a century ago to
observe the same phenomenon, though it was the furthering of
this scientific end that brought before the world ‘the name of that
great man, whose memory his countrymen will not willingly per-
mit to die; and, indeed, of few, if any, of our worthies, have so
many biographical sketches been written, while the narrative
of his voyages has been edited by numerous hands, and never so
well as when the original text of Captains Cook and King has
been most closely adhered to. This course we have adopted,
abbreviating freely, and, where necessary, throwing into modern
language the somewhat antiquated phraseology of the early
editions.

Calculations having been made that the planet Venus would pass
over the sun’s disc in 1769, the Royal Society, under the patron-
age of King George the Third, presented a memorial to Govern-
ment, requesting that a vessel might be fitted out to convey proper
persons to observe the transit, either in the Marquesas or Friendly
Islands, though, on the recommendation of Captain Wallis, who
at this time returned from his voyage round the world, it was
ultimately decided that the observers should proceed instead to
Otaheite, in the Society Islands. Accordingly, Sir Hugh Palliser,

B
18 COOK’S VOYAGES.

a captain in the Royal Navy, under whom Cook had served on
board the Eagle, of 60 guns, was commissioned to provide a
proper vessel; and after examining a great number, fixed on the
Endeavour, a vessel of 370 tons, which had been built for the
coal trade. Mr. Stephens, Secretary to the Admiralty, having
recommended Mr. Cook, and this recommendation being
strengthened by the testimony of Sir Hugh Palliser, he was ap-
pointed to the distinguished post of Commander of the expe-
dition by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, and
promoted to the rank of Lieutenant in the Royal Navy, on the
2sth of May, 1768, being then nearly 40 years of age. Mr.
Charles Green, the coadjutor of Mr. Bradley, the Astronomer
Royal, was nominated to assist him in the astronomical part of
the undertaking ; he was also accompanied by Mr. (afterwards Sir
Joseph) Banks, President of the Royal Society, who took with
him two draughtsmen, and had likewise a secretary and four
servants. Dr. Solander, an ingenious and learned Swede, who
held a place in the British Museum, and was an adept in natural
history and philosophy, also joined the expedition. The comple-
ment of the Endeavour consisted of eighty-four persons. She was
victualled for eighteen months, and ten carriage and twelve swivel
guns, with abundance of ammunition, and all manner of stores,
were taken on board. Her principal officers were :—Lieutenants
Hicks and Gore; Mr. Molineux, master, who died the 15th of
April, 1771, and was succeeded by Mr. Pickersgill; Mr. Charles
Clerke, mate; Mr. Monkhouse, surgeon, who died the 5th of
November, 1770, and was succeeded by Mr. Perry,

Captain Cook sailed from Deptford on the 30th of July, 1768,
and on the 18th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound, from
which, in a few days, he proceeded to sea. On the 2nd of
September they made the first land after leaving the Channel, and
on the 13th arrived at Madeira, where they unfortunately lost
Mr. Weir, the master’s mate, who fell overboard and was drowned.
They left Madeira on the roth of September, and on the 23rd
sighted the Peak of Teneriffe, which, from its great elevation, is
visible a vast distance at sea. On the 29th, Bona Vista, one of
the Cape de Verd islands, was passed, and on October the 25th.
they crossed the line with the usual ceremonies. Provisions


THE FIRST VOVAGE. 19



falling short, it was determined to put into Rio Janeiro, where

mh ,, they arrived on the 13th of November, and having procured the

necessary supplies, weighed anchor on the 8th December. On
the 22nd they were surrounded by a great number of porpoises,

lee sof a singular species, about 15 feet in length, and of an ash

colour. On the following day they observed an eclipse of the
moon; and at seven o’clock in the morning a small white cloud
appeared in the west, from which a train of fire issued, followed
by a distinct explosion, when the cloud disappeared. The year

‘1768 closed without any noteworthy incident.

On the 4th of January, 1769,.they saw an appearance of land,

aA which they mistook for Pepy’s Island, and bore away for it; but

it proved one of those deceptions which sailors call a “ fog bank.”
On the 14th they entered the straits of Le Maire, but were driven
out again with great violence, the tide being against them. At
length they got anchorage at the entrance of a little cove, which
Captain Cook called St. Vincent’s Bay. Dr. Solander and Mr.
Banks went on shore, and returned about nine in the evening
with upwards of a hundred different plants and flowers, hitherto
unnoticed by European botanists.

On Sunday, the r5th, they came to anchor off this part of
Terra_del_Fuego, in twelve fathoms of water, upon coral rocks,
before a small cove, at a distance of about a mile from the shore.
Two of the natives came down upon the beach, as if they ex-
pected the strangers would land; but as there was no shelter, the
ship got under weigh again and the natives retired. The same
afternoon they came to an anchor in the Bay of Good Success.
The captain went ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander, to search for a watering-place and confer with the
natives. These gentlemen proceeded above a too yards in ad-
vance of Captain Cook, when two of the natives who had seated
themselves, rose up, and, as a token of amity, threw away a small
stick or boomerang which they had in their hands. They after-
wards returned to their companions, who had remained some
distance behind, and made signs to their guests to advance.
' They received the Englishmen in a friendly manner, and in return
for their civility, some buttons and beads were distributed among
them. Thus confidence was established, and the rest of the
20 COOK’S VOYAGES.

English party joined and conversed with them in an amicable
manner. Captain Cook and his friends took three of the natives
to the ship, clothed them, and gave them provisions, part of
which they carried on shore. They, however, refused to drink
rum or brandy, after tasting it, intimating by signs that it burned
their throats. None of these people exceeded 5 feet 10 inches in
height, but their bodies appeared large and robust, though their
limbs were small. They had broad flat faces, high cheeks, noses
inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths,
small but indifferent teeth, and straight black hair falling down
over their ears and foreheads, the latter being most generally
smeared with brown and red paints; and, like all the original
inhabitants of America, they were beardless. Their garments
were the skins of seals and guanicos, which they wrapped round
their shoulders. The men likewise wore on their heads a bunch of
yarn, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind with
the sinews or tendons of some animal. Many of both sexes were
painted in different parts of their bodies with ‘red, brown, and
white colours, and had also three or four perpendicular lines
pricked across their cheeks and noses. The women had a smak
string tied round each ankle, and each wore a flap of skin fastened
round the middle. They carried their children upon their backs,
and were generally employed in domestic labour and drudgery.
Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Buchan, and attendants, set out
with a design of going into the country and returning the same even-
ing. The morning had been very fine, but the weather afterwards
became cold and disagreeable, the blasts of wind were piercing,
and the snow fell very thick; nevertheless, they pursued their
route, in the hope of finding a better road, as that which they had
crossed was swampy. An accident now happened that greatly
disconcerted them all. Mr. Buchan was attacked with a fit.
Such as were fatigued remained to assist him; but Mr. Banks,
Dr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhouse proceeded on further, and
found a great variety of plants that amply repaid their toil. When
they returned to the company amidst the snow, which now fell in
great abundance, they found that Mr. Buchan was much recovered.
It was now about eight in the evening, and Dr. Solander, knowing
from experience that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue,






















































































































































































































































FUEGIAN WIGWAMS,





THE FIRST VOYAGE. 23



occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted, entreated his
friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to
them. His words were, “ Whoever sits down will sleep, and who-
ever sleeps will wake no more.” Accordingly, everyone now
seemed armed with resolution ; but, on a sudden, the cold became
so very intense as to threaten the most dreadful effects. It was
remarkable that the doctor himself, who had so forcibly ad-
monished his party, was the first person who insisted on repose.
In spite of their earnest entreaties, he lay down amidst the snow,
and it was with the greatest difficulty they kept him awake. One
of the black servants became also weary and faint, and was on
the point of following his example. Mr. Buchan was therefore
detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot
they could find; Mr. Banks and four more remained with the
doctor and Richmond, the black servant, who with the utmost
difficulty were persuaded to proceed ; but when they had traversed
the greater part of the swamp, they expressed their inability to go
any further. When Richmond was told that if he remained there
he would soon be frozen to death, his-reply was that he was so
exhausted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Dr.
Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first
take some sleep, acting contrary to the opinion which he himself
had so lately delivered. Thus resolved, they both sat down, sup-
ported by some bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. In-
telligence now came from the advanced party that a fire was kindled
about a quarter of a mile in advance. Mr. Banks then awakened
the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs, though it
was but a few minutes since he sat down; nevertheless, he con-
sented to go. Every measure, however, taken to relieve Rich-
mond proved ineffectual; he remained motionless, and they were
obliged to leave him to the care of a sailor and the other black
servant who appeared to be the least affected by the cold, and
they were to be relieved as soon as two others were sufficiently
warmed to supply their places. The doctor, with much difficulty,
was got to the fire, but the party who were sent to relieve the
companions of Richmond returned without having been able to
find them.

A fall of snow continuing for nearly two hours, there now re-
24 COOK’S VOYAGES.

mained no hopes of seeing the three absent persons again. About
twelve o’clock, however, a great shouting was heard at a distance,
when Mr. Banks and four others went forth and met the sailor,
who had just strength enough left to walk. He was immediately
taken to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the other two.
They found Richmond upon his legs, of which, however, he had
lost the use, and the other black was lying senseless upon the
ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless :
nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the
snow that had fallen and was still falling, so there remained no
alternative, and they were compelled to leave the two unfortunate
negroes to their fate, after they had made them a bed of the
boughs of some trees, and covered them over thick with the same.
As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move these
poor fellows to the fire, and had been exposed to the cold for near
an hour and a half in the attempt, some of them began to be
afflicted in the same manner as those whom they went to relieve.
Briscoe, another servant of Mr. Banks, in particular, began. to
lose his sensibility. At last they reached the fire, and passed the
night in a very disagreeable manner. \,

The party that set out from the ship consisted of twelve; two
were already judged to be dead, and it was doubtful whether a
third would be able to return on board; Mr. Buchan, a fourth,
seemed to be threatened with a return of his fits. They reckoned
that the ship was distant a long day’s journey through an unfre-
quented wood, and having been equipped only for a journey of a
few hours, they had not a sufficiency of provisions left to afford
the company a single meal.

At daybreak on the 17th nothing presented itself to view but
snow, and the blasts of wind were so frequent and violent that
their journey seemed to be impracticable. However, about six in
the morning they had a dawn of hope, by discerning the sun
through the clouds, and as they proposed to set out on their
return journey to the ship, messengers were despatched to the
unhappy negroes, but they returned with the melancholy news of
their death. They then started about ten in the morning, and to
their great astonishment and satisfaction, in about three hours
found themselves on the shore, and much nearer the ship than
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 25

their most sanguine expectations could have suggested, for, instead
of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle
almost round the country.

On the goth Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander again proceeded on
shore, and collected a number of shells and plants hitherto un-
known. After dinner they went to visit an Indian town, about
two miles up the country, situated on a small hill covered with
wood, and consisting of about a dozen huts, constructed without
art or regularity, composed of a few poles, inclining to each other
in the shape of a sugar loaf; these poles were covered: on the
weather side with grass and boughs, and on the lee side a space
was left open which served at once for a fireplace and a door.
A little grass formed their only beds and chairs; their utensils
were a basket for the hand, a satchel to hang upon the back, and
a bladder of water, out of which they drink through a hole in the
top. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty men,
women, and children. Their bows and arrows were constructed
with neatness and ingenuity, being made of wood highly polished,
and the point, which was either glass or flint, was very skilfully
fitted. These latter substances were observed among them un-
wrought, as also cloth, rings, buttons, etc., from whence it was
concluded that they sometimes travelled to the northward, as no
ship, for years past, had touched at this part of Terra del Fuego.
They did not show any surprise at the sight of arms, but appeared
to be well acquainted with their use. They seemed to be of a
very low type of humanity, passing their lives in wandering in a
forlorn manner over dreary wastes ; their only food was shell-fish,
nor had they the rudest implements of art—not even so much as
was necessary to dress their food. —

On the 2oth of January Captain Cook took his departure from
Cape Horn; and the weather being very calm, Mr. Banks pro-
ceeded in a small boat to shoot birds, when he killed some shear-
waters and some large albatrosses. The latter proved very good
food. Notwithstanding that the doubling of Cape Horn was re-
presented by voyagers of that date as fraught with danger, and it
was generally thought that passing through the Straits of Magellan
was less perilous, yet the Endeavour doubled “the Horn,” as
sailors call it, with as little danger as she would the North Fore-


26 COOK’S VOYAGES.



land on the Kentish coast. The heavens were fair, the wind
temperate, the weather pleasant, and, being near shore, they had
a very distinct view of the coast. Captain Cook surveyed the Bay
of Good Success and traced the coast. The former charts of this
part of Terra del Fuego were nearly useless, they having been formed
from the rude sketches of Hermite, the Dutch Admiral, in 1624,
and those still worse of the discoverers Schouten and Le Maire.

On the 25th a marine, about twenty years of age, being falsely
charged with theft, took the accusation so much to heart that, in
the dusk of the evening, he threw himself into the sea and was
drowned.

On the 4th of April, about ro o’clock, Peter Briscoe, servant to
Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, at the distance of about
three or four leagues. Captain Cook immediately gave orders to
sail for it, when they found an island of an oval form, having a
lagoon or lake in the centre, whence he gave it the name of
Lagoon Island. The surrounding border of the land was low and
narrow in many places, especially towards the south, where the
beach consisted of a reef of rocks. Three places on the north
side had the same appearance, so that, on the whole, the land
seemed to resemble several woody islands. When within a mile
of the north side, no bottom could be found at 130 fathoms, nor
any good anchorage. Several of the natives were discovered on
shore; they appeared to be tall, with heads remarkably large,
which probably some bandage might have increased. Their com-
plexion was copper colour and their hair black. Some of these
people were seen abreast of the ship, holding poles or pikes of
twice their own height. ‘They appeared also to be naked, but
when they retired, on the ship’s passing by the islands, they put on
a light covering; some clumps of palm trees served them for
habitations.

The Endeavour, on the sth, continued her course with a favour-
able wind, and about three o’clock land was discovered to the
‘westward. It was low, in form resembling a bow, and in circum-
ference seemed to be ten or twelve leagues. Its length was about
three or four leagues, and its width about 200 yards. This island,
from the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be inhabited,
and was named Bow Island.




















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































VIEW OF TAHITI,



















THE FIRST VOYAGE. ZG

On the roth of April, after.a tempestuous night, the Lindeavour
came in sight of Osnaburg Island, called by the natives Maitea.
This island is circular, about four miles in circumference, partly
rocky and partly covered with trees.

On the i1th they made Otaheite, or, as Captain Wallis had
named it, “ George the Third’s Island.” This island, the largest
and most important of the Society group, was first discovered by
Quiros, a Spaniard, as early as the year :6o6, and called Sagit-
taria. The next European to visit it was Captain Wailis, in 1767;
and it had been so ill described by the Spanish navigator, that
our countryman was unable to recognise it as the island discovered
by him. The third visitor was Captain Cook, on the occasion
under notice.

The society group consists of five islands and numerous small
islets. The former are called Qtaheite, Eimeo, Meatia, (or
Maitea), Maiaviti, and Tituaro ; and they all lie between 16° 30’
and 17° 54’ South lat., and 148° 153’ West long. At the present
time the island of Otaheite is the seat of the native government,
as well as that of the French, since its subjugation. This island

is formed by two distinct mountains, rising to the height of from

_ 6,000 to 8,000 feet, and divided from each other by a low isthmus

some three miles in width. The circumference of Otaheite is be-
tween 110 and 113 miles, and its coasts are girded by a coral reef.
Its geological formation is volcanic, though the valleys and _hill-
sides are of great fertility. The climate is temperate, the tempera-
ture ranging in summer between 68° and 86°. At the date of
the arrival of the first missionaries in 1797, the population is said
to have been under 20,000, and twenty years later it had actually
decreased to 5,000. Since 1820, owing to the abolition of infanti-
cide and the influence of the new religion upon the morals of the
natives, the population has attained the level of 1797, and again
numbers 20,000.

The calms prevented the Endeavour approaching Otaheite till
the morning of the 12th of April, when a breeze sprang up, and
several canoes were seen making towards the ship. Few of them,
however, would come near, and the occupants of those that did
could not be persuaded to come on board. They brought with
them young plantains and branches of trees, which were handed
30 COOK’S VOYAGES.



up the ship’s side; and by their desire were stuck in conspicuous
parts of the rigging as tokens of peace and friendship. After this,
the crew purchased their commodities, consisting of cocoa-nuts,
bananas, bread-fruit, apples, and figs, which were very acceptable.

They lay “off and on” all night, and in the morning of the
13th entered Port Royal Harbour, in the island of Otaheite, and
anchored within half a mile of the shore. Many of the natives
came off immediately in their canoes, and brought with them
bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and some hogs, which they bar-
tered for beads and other trinkets with the ship’s company. The
tree which bears the bread-fruit is about the size of a horse chest-
nut; its leaves are nearly a foot anda half in length, in shape
oblong, and very much ‘resembling those of the fig-tree. The
fruit is enclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a man’s
thumb. The substance of this fruit is somewhat like that of new
bread, and as white as the blanched almond. It should be
roasted, and has a sweetish taste to the palate.

Amongst those who came on board the #ndeavour was an
elderly man named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore and others who
had visited the island with Captain Wallis, and as he was con-
sidered a very useful personage, they studied to please him and to
gratify all his wishes.

Captain Cook drew up several necessary rules to be observed
by every person on board, for the better establishment of a regular
trade with the natives. The substance of the rules were, ‘That
in order to prevent quarrels and confusion, every one of the ship’s
crew should endeavour to treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with
humanity, and by all fair means to cultivate a friendship with
them. That no officer, seaman, or other person belonging to the
ship, excepting such only as were appointed to barter with the
natives, should trade or offer to trade for any kind of provision,
fruit, or other produce of the island, without having express leave
so to do. That no person should embezzle, trade, or offer to
trade with any part of the ship’s stores ; and that no sort of iron
or anything made of iron, or any sort of cloth, or other useful
articles in the ship, should be given in exchange for anything but
provisions.” These necessary rules were signed by Captain Cook,
and to the non-observance of them were annexed certain penalties,
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 31



besides the punishment accorded in the navy to the infraction of
the captain’s orders.

When the ship was properly secured, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks,
and Dr. Solander went on shore, with an armed party and their
friend Owhaw. They were received with awe and reverence by
some hundreds of the natives, who exchanged the tokens of peace,
and offered to conduct them to a spot of ground which would be
more convenient for them to occupy than where they landed.
They now took a circuit of about four miles, through groves of
the bread-fruit and cocoa trees. Intermingled with these were
the dwellings of the natives, which consisted of huts without walls.
In the course of their journey they found but few fowls or hogs,
and understood that none of their conductors, nor any of the
people they had hitherto seen, were persons of rank in the island.
Those of the crew who had before been at Otaheite, in the
Dolphin, were likewise of opinion that the queen’s residence had
been removed, as no traces of it were now to be discovered.

Next morning, before they could leave the ship, several canoes
came about her, filled with people, whose dress denoted them to
be of the superior class. Two of these came on board, and each
fixed on a friend; one of them chose Mr. Banks and the other
Captain Cook. The ceremonial of investiture, if it may be so
called, consisted in taking off their clothes in a great part and
putting them upon their adopted friends. This compliment was
returned by the gentlemen presenting them with some trinkets.
They then made signs for their new friends to go with them to
the place of their abode, and the latter, desirous of being acquainted
with the people, and finding out a more convenient harbour,
accepted the invitation and went with them. Mr. Banks, Dr.
Solander, and others, landed in two boats at a distance of about
three miles from the ship, among a great number of the natives,
who conducted them to a large habitation, where they were intro-
duced to a middle-aged man, named Tootahah. When they were
seated, he presented to Mr. Banks a cock, a hen, and a piece of
perfumed cloth, which compliment was returned by a present
from Mr. Banks. They were conducted to several other large
dwellings, wherein they walked about with great freedom. Walk
ing afterwards along the shore they met another chief, named
32 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Tubourai Tamaide, with whom they settled a treaty of peace in
the manner before described. . The chief gave them to understand
that he had provisions at their service, if they chose to eat, which
he produced, and they dined heartily upon bread- fruit, plantains,
and fish. In the course of this visit, Dr. Solander having missed
an opera-glass, complaint was made to the chief, which interrupted
the convivial party. This complaint was enforced by Mr. Banks
starting up and striking the butt-end of his musket against the
ground, which alarmed the Indians so much that all of them ran
precipitately out of the house, except the chief and a few others
of the superior class. The chief observed, with an air of probity,
that he would endeavour to recover it, adding that if this could
not be done he would make compensation, by giving as much
new cloth as should be thought equal to the value, The case,
however, was brought in a short time, and the glass itself soon
after. After this adventure was amicably terminated, they re-
turned to the ship about,six o’clock in the evening.

On Saturday, the °f Path, in the morning, several of the chiefs
came on board, bringing with them hogs, bread-fruit, and other
refreshments, for which they received linen, beads, and other
trinkets. The captain, attended by Mr. Banks and some officers,
went on shore to select a suitable spot for the erection of a fort
for their defence during their stay, and the ground was marked
out for the purpose, a great number of the natives looking on, and
behaving in the most peaceable manner.

Mr. Banks and his friends having seen few hogs and poultry in
their walks, suspected that they had been driven up the country,
for which reason they determined to penetrate into the woods, the
tent being guarded by a petty officer and a party of marines. On
this excursion several of the natives accompanied them. While
on their march they were alarmed by the report of two pieces,
fired by the guard of the tent. Owhaw, calling together the
captain’s party, dispersed all the Indians except three, who, in
token of their fidelity, broke branches of trees, according to their
custom, and whom it was thought proper to retain. When they
returned to the tent they found that an Indian had snatched
away one of the sentries’ muskets, and a young midshipman, who
commanded the party, was so imprudent as to give the marines.
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 33

orders to fire, and many of the natives were wounded ; but as the
offender had not fallen, they pursued him and shot him dead.
Mr. Banks was much displeased at this conduct; but as what had
passed could not be recalled, nothing remained but to endeavout
to accommodate matters with the Indians. Accordingly, through
the mediation of an old man, several of the natives were pre-
vailed to come over to them, and to give the usual tokens of
friendship. The next morning, however, they saw but few of the
natives on the beach, and none on board, from whence it was
concluded that the treatment they had received the former day
was not yet forgotten; and the English were confirmed in this
opinion by Owhaw’s having left them. In consequence of these
circumstances the captain brought the ship nearer to the shore,
and moored her in such a manner as to make her broadside bear
on the spot which they had marked out for erecting the fort. In
the evening, the captain and some of the gentlemen going on
shore, the Indians came round them and trafficked with them as
usual.

On the 17th they had the misfortune to lose Mr. Buchan. The
same day they received a visit fror: Tubourai Tamaide and
Tootahah, who brought with them some plantain branches, and
till these were received they would not venture on board. The
erection of the fort commenced on the 18th,

Some of the ship’s company were employed in throwing up in-
trenchments, whilst others were busied in cutting fascines, in
which work the Indians assisted them. The natives brought
down such quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts this day that it
was necessary to refuse them, and to let them know that none
would be wanting for two days. Mr. Banks slept for the first
time on shore this night. None of the Indians attempted to ap-
proach his tent ; he had, however, taken the precaution to place
sentries about it for his defence.

A sort of market was now established without the lines of the
fort, which was tolerably well supplied, and Tubourai Tamaide
was a frequent guest of Mr. Banks and the other English gentle-
men. He was the only native that attempted to use a knife and
fork, being fond of adopting European manners. Mr. Monkhouse,

the surgeon, being abroad on his evening walk, reported that he
c
34 COOK’S VOVAGES.



had seen the body of the man who had been shot from the tent.
It was deposited in a shed close to the house where he had re-
sided when alive. The body lay on a bier, the frame of which
was wood, supported by pillars about 5 feet high, and covered
with a mat, over which lay a white cloth; by its side lay a wooden
mace, and towards the head two cocoa-nut shells. Towards the
feet was a bunch of green leaves and small dried boughs tied to-
gether, and stuck in the ground, near which was a stone about
the size of a cocoa-nut; here were also placed a young plantain
tree, and on the stem of a palm tree, which was placed upright
outside of it, was placed a cocoa-shell, filled with water. At the
side of one of the posts there hung a little bag with some roasted
pieces of bread-fruit. The natives were not pleased at his ap-
proaching the body, their jealousy appearing plainly in their
countenances and gestures.

On the 22nd they were entertained by some of the musicians
of the country, who performed on an instrument somewhat re-
sembling a German flute, but the performer blew through his
nostrils instead of his mouth, and others accompanied this instru-
ment, singing only one tune. Some of the Indians brought their
axes to grind-and repair, most of which they had obtained from
Captain Wallis and the crew of the Dolphin ; but a French axe
occasioned a little speculation, and at length, upon inquiry, it
appeared to have been left here by M. De Bougainville.

On the 25th, several knives being missed, Mr. Banks, who had
lost his among the rest, accused Tubourai Tamaide of having
taken it, upon which the chief, with tears in his eyes, made signs
that if he had been guilty of such a theft as had been imputed to
him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. But though he was
innocent, it was plain that the natives in general were very much
addicted to thieving, as though Mr. Banks’ servant had mislaid
the knife in question, yet the rest were produced in a day by one
of the natives.

On the 26th, six swivel guns were mounted on the fort, which
alarmed the Indians, and several of the fishermen removed, fear-
ing that the guns would open fire on them. The next day,
Tubourai Tamaide came with three women and a friend to dine
at the fort, and after dinner returned to his own house. Ina
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 35

short time after he came back to complain of a butcher, who had
threatened to cut his wife’s throat because she would not barter a
stone hatchet for a nail. It appearing clearly that the offender
had infringed one of the rules enjoined by the captain for trading
with the natives, he was flogged on board, in their sight. When
the first stroke had been given, they interfered, and entreated that
the culprit might be untied; but when this favour was denied
them, they appeared greatly concerned, and burst into tears.

Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman whose
name was Oberea, he declared she was the same person whom he
judged to be queen of the island when he was there with Captain
Wallis. The eyes of everyone were now fixed on her, of whom so
much had been said by the crew of the Dolphin, and in the
account given of her by the captain. In person she was tall and
rather large made; she was about forty years of age, her skin
white, and her eyes had great expression in them; she had been
handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. An offer
was made to conduct her on board the ship, which she accepted.
Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which
she viewed very attentively. Captain Cook accompanied her on
shore, and when they landed, she presented him with a hog and
some plantains in return for his presents, which were carried to
the fort in procession, Oberea and the captain bringing up the
rear. On the way they met Tootahah, who, though not king,
seemed at this time invested with sovereign authority. He no
sooner saw the doll than he discovered strong symptoms of
jealousy, nor could any method be found of conciliating his friend-
ship but that of presenting him with one also.

On the goth, Tomio came in great haste to the tents, and tak-
ing Mr. Banks by the arm, told him that Tubourai Tamaide was
dying, owing to something which had been given him by our
people, and entreated him instantly to go to him. Accordingly
Mr. Banks did so, and found the Indian very sick. He had been
vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf which they said contained
some of the poison. Mr. Banks having examined the leaf, found
that it was tobacco, which the Indian had begged from some of
the ship’s company. He ordered him to drink cocoa-nut milk,
which soon restored him.
6 COOK’S VOYAGES.

fo



On the rst of May,.a chief, who had dined with the captain
sometime before, accompanied by some of his women, who used
to feed him, came on board alone. At dinner the captain helped
him to some victuals, supposing that he would have dispensed
with the ceremony of being fed, but the chief never attempted to
eat, and would have gone without his dinner if one of the servants
had not fed him. The officers took the astronomical quadrant
and other instruments on shore that afternoon, but when they
wanted to make use of the quadrant next day, it was missing. A
strict, search was made in and about the fort, and a considerable
reward was offered for it; but all proving fruitless, Mr. Banks,
accompanied by Mr. Green and some others, set out for the
woods, where they thought they might probably hear some tidings
of what was stolen. On their way they met with Tubourai
Tamaide and some of the natives, who were made to understand
that they had lost the quadrant, and that, as some of their coun-
trymen must have taken it, they insisted upon being shown the
place where it was concealed. After some inquiry, the instru-
ment was recovered, and it was found that it had received no real
injury, though it had been taken to pieces.

When they returned in the evening, they were much surprised
to find Tootahah under confinement in the fort, while a crowd of
the natives surrounded the gate, discovering marks of the greatest
anxiety for the fate of their chief. The occasion of his detention
originated from the conduct of the Indians, who, alarmed at
Captain Cook’s having gone up the country with an armed party,
left the fort that evening, and one of the canoes attempted to quit
the bay. The lieutenant who commanded on board the ship,
having received orders not to suffer any canoes to: depart, sent a
boat to detain her, but she no sooner approached than the
Indians jumped into the sea. Tootahah being of the number,
was taken and sent to the officer who commanded at the fort, who
concluded he should do right to detain him prisoner. The poor
chief expected to be put to death, until Captain Cook caused him
to be liberated, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the
natives entertained a sense of injury, and, as a proof of it, they
neglected to supply the market with provisions.

On the 3rd_of May provisions were extremely scarce, and it
THE FIRST VOYAGE. a7



was not without difficulty that Mr. Banks got a few baskets of
bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide. Tootahah, on the 4th, sent
for an axe and a shirt, in return for the hogs he had left behind ;
and accordingly, early in the morning of the 5th, Captain Cook,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and the doctor, set out in the pinnace,
taking with them one of Tootahah’s people, and soon reached
Eparre, where he resided. When they arrived, they found a
number of natives waiting for them on shore, and were conducted
directly to the chief, the people, notwithstanding the offence they
had so lately taken, shouting out in their language, “ Tootahah is
your friend.” He was sitting under a tree, and some old men
were standing about him. Having made signs for them to be
seated, he asked for the axe, which was then given him by
Captain Cook, as also the shirt, and a broad-cloth garment, which
latter he put on, and was well pleased with the present. They
were afterwards conducted to a large court-yard on one side of the
chief’s house, where they were entertained with wrestling, after
the manner of the country. He himself sat at the upper end of
the arena, having on each side of him several of his principal men
as judges of the sport, which was conducted as follows :—

Ten or twelve combatants entered the arena, and, after many
simple ceremonies of challenging, engaged, each endeavouring to
throw his antagonist by mere strength : they seized each other by
the hand, or other parts of the body, and without the least art,
till one, by having a greater hold, or stronger muscular force,
threw his antagonist on his back. The conquest was applauded
by the old men with a few words, repeated in a kind of tune, and
with three huzzas. After one engagement another succeeded : if
the combatants could not throw each other in the space of a
minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intervention of
their friends. A man with a stick officiated as master of the cere-
monies, keeping order among the people, and those of them who
pressed forward he struck with his stick very smartly. During
these athletic sports, another party of men performed a dance for
the space of a minute, but neither of these parties took the least
notice of each other, their attention being wholly fixed on their
own endeavours to please and conquer. - At the conclusion of
this entertainment, not unlike the wrestling matches of remote
38 COOK’S VOYAGES.



antiquity, they were told that some hogs and a quantity of bread-
fruit were preparing for dinner ; but their host, instead of setting
his two hogs before them, ordered one of them to be carried into
the boat. Here they thought to have enjoyed their good cheer,
but, at the desire of Tubourai Tamaide, they proceeded to the
ship. However, they were at last gratified with the promised re-
past, of which the chiet and his friends had a liberal share. This
friendly reconciliation operated on the natives like a charm, for it
was no sooner known that Tubourai Tamaide was on board, than
provisions of all kinds were brought to the fort in great plenty.

By this time the forge was set up and at work, which afforded
a new subject of admiration to the natives, and to Captain Cook
an additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by
permitting the smith, in his leisure hours, to convert the old iron
which they were supposed to have procured from the Dolphen into
various kinds of tools.

On the roth they sowed, in ground properly prepared, seeds of
melons and other plants, but none of them came up except
mustard. Mr. Banks thought the seeds were spoiled by a total
exclusion of fresh air, they having all been put into small bottles,
and sealed up with rosin. They learnt this day that the Indians
called the island Otaheite, the name by which it is now distin-
guished. They were not so fortunate in endeavouring to teach
them their names; and after repeated attempts to pronounce
them, which proved fruitless, the natives had recourse to new
names of their own invention. Captain Cook they named Toote ;
Mr. Hicks, Hete; the master they called Boba, from his Chris-
tian name, Robert; Mr. Gore, Toarro; Dr. Solander, Toano ;-
Mr. Banks, Tapane; and so on with the greater part of the ship’s
crew.

On the 13th, Tubourai Tamaide offended Mr. Banks by snatch-
ing his gun out of his hand, and firing it in the air, an action
which much surprised that gentleman, as he imagined him totally
ignorant of the use of it. As consideration for their safety im-
peratively required that these people should not acquire the use
of firearms, Mr. Banks made a serious matter of what probably
the other meant only as a joke; and, not without threats, gave
him to understand that to touch the piece was a great insult.



















































































































































































































































































































MATAVIA BAY, TAHITI.
THE FIRST VOYAGE. At



The offender made no reply, but set out Siedintely sw with his
family for Eparre. Great inconvenience being apprehended from
this man, and as in many instances he had been particularly use-
ful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him. He set out the same
evening from the fort, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, and found
him in the middle of a large circle of people, the picture of ex-
treme grief, which was also visible in the countenances of his at-
tendants. Mr. Banks lost no time in effecting a reconciliation
with the chief, and a double canoe being got ready, they all re-
turned together to the fort before supper, and as a pledge of
reconciliation both he and his wife passed the night in the tent of
Mr. Banks.

' On Monday, the r5th, Tubourai Taninide was detected in a
theft. Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but a basket
of nails, left in the corner of the tent, proved irresistible. He
confessed the fact of having stolen four nails, but when restitu-
tion was demanded, Tamaide said the nails were at Eparre.
High words passed, and the Indian produced one of the nails,
and was to be forgiven on restoring the rest; but his virtue was
not equal to the task, and he withdrew himself as usual when he
had committed an offence.

On the 27th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and
some others, set out in the pinnace to visit Tootahah, who had
again removed to a place called Atahouro, six miles from his last
abode. Having presented him with a yellow stuff petticoat and
other trifling articles, they were invited to supper and to pass the
night there. The party consisted of six only, but the place was
crowded with a greater number than the houses and canoes
could contain. Among the guests was Oberea, with her train of
attendants. Mr. Banks, having accepted of a lodging in Oberea’s
canoe, left his companions in order to retire to rest. Oberea had
the charge of his clothes; but, notwithstanding her care, they
were stolen, as were also his pistols, his powder-horn, and several
other things out of his waistcoat pockets. An alarm was given
to Tootahah, in the next canoe, who went with Oberea in search
of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches and waist-
coat on, and his musket uncharged. They soon returned, but
without success, and Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with


42 COOK’S VOYAGES.



the loss at present, and he then proceeded to find his companions.
He found the hut where Captain Cook and three other gentlemen
slept, and they told him that they had lost their stockings and
jackets. In effect, Dr. Solander, who joined them the next
morning, was the only one that escaped being robbed, and he
had slept at a house that was a mile distant.

Preparations were now made for viewing the transit of Venus,
and two parties were sent out to make observations from different
spots, so that in case of failing at Otaheite, they might succeed
elsewhere. They employed themselves in preparing their
instruments, and instructing in the use of them those gentlemen
who were to go out: and on Thursday, the rst of June, they seni
the long boat, with Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse (the two observers),
and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks, with proper instruments
to Eimayo. Others were sent out to find a spot that might
answer the purpose, at a convenient distance from their principal
station.

The party that went towards Eimayo, after rowing the greater
part of the night, having hailed a canoe, were informed by the
Indians of a place which was judged proper for their observatory.
On this rock, which rose out of the water, about 140 yards from
the shore, they fixed their tents.

On Saturday, the 3rd, the day of the transit, Mr. Banks, as

soon as it was light, left them in order to go and get fresh
provisions on the island, and had the satisfaction of seeing the
sun rise without a cloud. The king, whose name was Tarrao,
came to pay him a visit, and brought with him Nuna, his sister.
As it was customary for the people to be seated at their con-
ferences, Mr. Banks spread his turban of Indian cloth, which he
wore as a hat, upon the ground, and they all sat down. Then
the king’s presents, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-
nuts and bread-fruit, were brought, and Mz. Banks presented in
return an adze, a shirt, and some beads, which his Majesty re-
ceived with apparent satisfaction. The king, his sister, and
three good-looking young women, their attendants, then ac-
companied Mr. Banks to the observatory, where he showed them
the transit of Venus over the sun’s disc, and informed them that
his sole object in undertaking a voyage from remote regions was
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 43



to view the planet in that situation. Both the parties that were
sent out to make observations on the transit met with good
success, though they differed more than might have been ex-
pected in their records of the contact. Mr. Green’s account was
as follows :—

Morninc.
Hours. Min. Sec.
The first external contact or appearance of Venus on

the Sun : : : TO eer? Steed
The first internal contact, or iin immersion nO) 4A A!
AFTERNOON.
The second internal contact, or ee of the
immersion ; eA Oe
The second external contact, or ean immersion . 3 32 10
Latitude of the Observatory,
17° 209/157.

Longitude, 149° 32’ 30” W.
of Greenwich.

While the gentlemen and officers were busied in viewing the
transit, some of the ship’s company broke into the store-room
and stole a quantity of spike nails. After a strict search the
thief was discovered, and was ordered to receive two dozen
lashes.

On account of the absence, on the 4th of June, of the two
parties sent out to observe the transit, Captain Cook deferred
keeping the birthday of King George the Third to the next day,
the sth, when it was celebrated, and several of the Indian chiefs
partook of the entertainment, and drank his Majesty’s health in
the name of Kihiargo, the nearest imitation they could produce
of King George. On the 12th, complaint was made that the
Indians had lost some of their bows and arrows and strings of
plaited hair; the affair was inquired into, and being well attested,
the offending sailors each received two dozen lashes, which
appears to have been the limit of the corporal punishment ever
inflicted by Captain Cook, whose humanity appears in marked
contrast to that of naval commanders of his time, when frequently
ak COOK’S VOYAGES.

many hundred lashes were adjudged for offences that would now
be punished by two dozen, or fifty lashes at the outside.

On the roth, in the evening, Oberea and several of her
attendants paid the Zndeavour a visit. She came from Tootahah’s
palace in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-
fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog. Tupia under-
took to kill and dress the dog, which he did by making a hole in
the ground and baking it, and it was esteemed a very good
dish.

On the 21st they were visited by many of the natives, who
brought with them various presents. Among the rest was a chief
named Oamo, accompanied by a boy and a young woman.
Oberea and some of the Indians went from the fort to meet
them, bareheaded, and uncovered as low as the waist, which the
English judged to be marks of respect usually shown to persons
of high rank. When Oamo entered the tent, the young woman,
though seemingly very curious, could not be prevailed upon to
accompany him. The youth was introduced by Dr. Solander,
but as soon as the Indians saw him, they took care to have him
sent out. ;

Curiosity being raised by these circumstances, they made in-
quiry concerning the strangers, and were informed that Oamo
was the husband of Oberea, but that by mutual consent they
had been for a considerable time separated, and the boy and
girl were their children. The former was called Terridiri; he
was heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the islands, and when he
attained the proper age was to marry his sister.

On the 23rd, in the morning, one of the crew being missing,
they were told he was at Eparre, Tootahah’s residence in the
wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back. On his
return, he said that he had been taken from the fort and carried
to the top of the bay by three men, who forced him into a canoe,
after having stripped him, and conducted him to Eparre, where
he received some clothes from Tootahah, who endeavoured to
prevail on him to continue there. There was reason to conclude
this account true, for the natives were no sooner acquainted
with his return than they left the fort with precipitation.

On June the 26th, early in the morning, Captain Cook setting
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 43



out in the pinnace with -Mr. Banks, sailed to the eastward, with
a view to circumnavigating the island. Coming to a large bay,
they mentioned their design of going to the other side; but
their Indian guide, whose name was Titubaolo, said he would not
accompany them, and also endeavoured to dissuade them from
going, observing “that the country was inhabited by people who
were not subject to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.”
They resolved, however, to put their design into execution, and
on loading their pieces with ball, Titubaolo ventured to go with
them,

Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow isthmus
which divided the island into two parts, which formed distinct
governments. They landed in the district of a chief called
Maraitata, a name which signifies the burying place of men; his
father was called Pahairede—that is, a stealer of boats. The
people, however, gave the captain a very good reception, sold
them a hog for a hatchet, and furnished them with provisions.

A crowd of the natives came round the English gentlemen, who
continued to advance until they reached a district under the
government of Waheatua. They proceeded on their journey for
a considerable way along the shore, till at last they were met by
the chief, who had with him an agreeable woman of about twenty-
two years of age, who was called Toudiddi.

The parts which they now passed appeared to be better culti-
. vated than any of the rest, and the burial-places, which were neat
and ornamented with carvings, were more numerous.

A little further to the eastward they landed again, and were met
by Mathiabo, a chief, with whom they were unacquainted. He
supplied them with bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, and they purchased
a hog for a glass bottle, which he chose in preference to all the
other articles presented for his acceptance. A turkey and a goose
were seen here, which were much admired by the natives, and
were supposed to have been left by Captain Wallis’s people.
When they left the place the chief piloted them over the shoals.
In the evening, on their arrival at a bay on the north-west side of
the island, they met with a very friendly reception from the chief,
whose name was Wiverou, with whom they supped, in company
with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to sleep
46 COOK’S VOYAGES.



in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. The thieving pro-
pensities of these people, from the chiefs downward, were incor-
rigible, and again received an illustration in the conduct of
Mathiabo, who, having borrowed a cloak from Mr. Banks, to
serve as a coverlét when he lay down, made off with it. News of
the robbery was brought them by one of the natives, and they set
out in pursuit of Mathiabo, but had proceeded only a little way
before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which
this person had given up through fear.

On their return they found the house entirely deserted, and
about four in the morning the sentry gave the alarm that the boat
was missing. Their situation now was extremely disagreeable.
The party consisted of only four, with one musket and two pocket
pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remain-
ing a considerable time in a state of anxiety, the boat, which had
been driven away by the tide, returned; and Mr. Banks and his
companions had no sooner breakfasted than they set out on their
return.

On Friday, the 3oth, they arrived at Otahorou, where they
found their old acquaintance Tootahah, who received them with
great civility, and provided them with a good supper and con-
venient lodgings; and though they had been so shamefully
plundered the last time they slept with this chief, they spent the
night in the greatest security, none of their clothes nor any article
being missing the next morning. ‘They arrived at the fort at Port
Royal Harbour on the ist_of July.

After their return from this tour, they were very much in need
of bread-fruit, but their Indian friends soon supplied their wants.

On the 3rd Mr. Banks made an excursion in order to trace the.
river up the valley to its source, and to note the condition of the
country along its banks. He took some Indian guides with him,
and after passing houses for about six miles along its course, came
to one which was said to be the last that could be met with. The
master presented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and they
proceeded on their walk. In the course of their journey they
often passed through vaults, formed by rocky fragments, in which,
as they were told, benighted travellers sometimes took shelter.
Pursuing the course of the river about six miles further, they found
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 47



it banked on both sides by rocks almost 1oo feet in height, and
nearly perpendicular. Mr. Banks sought in vain for minerals
among the rocks, which, though bare on almost all sides, were
destitute of such substances. The stones everywhere exhibited signs
of having been burnt, which was the case with alf the stones that
were found while they stayed in Otaheite ; and both there and in
the neighbouring islands the traces of fire were evident in the clay
upon the hills.

On the 4th a great quantity of the seeds of the water-melon,
oranges, limes, and other plants, brought from Rio de Janeiro,
were planted on each side of the fort by Mr. Banks, who also
plentifully supplied the Indians with them, and planted many of
them in the woods. Some melons, the seeds of which had been
sown on their first arrival on the island, grew up and flourished
before they left it.

Preparations were now made to depart. The carpenters being
ordered to take down the gates and palisades of the fort, to be
converted into firewood for the Endeavour, dne of the natives
stole the staple and hook of the gate; he was pursued in vain,
but the property was recovered and returned by Tubourai
Tamaide.

Between the 8th and _gth two young marines one night with-
drew themselves from the fort, their absence being discovered in
the morning. Notice having been given the next day that the
ship would sail on that or the ensuing day, Captain Cook began
to suspect that they designed to remain on shore; but as no
means could be taken to recover them without running a risk of
destroying the harmony that subsisted with the natives, he resolved
to wait a day, in hopes of their returning. But as they were still
missing on the roth, an inquiry was made after them, when the
Indians declared that they did not purpose to return, having
taken refuge among the mountains, where it was impossible for
them to be discovered, and that each of them had taken a wife.
In consequence of this, it was intimated to several of the chiefs
who were in the fort, with the women, among whom were
Tubourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not
be suffered to quit it till the deserters were produced. They did
not show any signs of fear or discontent, but assured the captain
48 COOK’S VOVAGES.



that the marines should be sent back. In the meantime Mr.
Hicks was despatched in the pinnace to bring Tootahah on board
the ship, and he executed his commission without giving any
alarm. Night coming on, Captain Cook thought it imprudent to
let the people whom he had detained as hostages remain at the
fort; he therefore gave orders to remove them on board, which
greatly alarmed them all, especially the females, who testified
their fears by floods of tears.

In the evening one of the marines was brought back by some
of the natives, who reported that the other, and two of our men
who went to recover them, would be detained till Tootahah was
released. Upon this Mr. Hicks was immediately sent off in the
long boat, with a strong body of men, to rescue the prisoners ; at
the same time the captain told Tootahah that it was incumbent
on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders,
in his name, that the men should be set at liberty, for that he
would be held answerable for the event. Tootahah immediately
complied, and the party recovered the men without opposition.
On examining the deserters, it appeared that the Indians had told
the truth, they having associated with the females, with whom
they intended to have remained in the island. Tupia, who had
been prime minister to Oberea when she was supreme, and being
also chief priest, was well acquainted with the religion of the
country, and often expressed a desire to go with them whenever
they continued their voyage.

On the morning of the rath of July he came on board, with
a boy about 12 years of age, his servant, named Taiyota, and
earnestly requested permission to accompany them, As it was
thought he would be useful to them, his request was complied
with. Tupia then went on shore for the last time, to bid farewell
to his friends, to whom he gave several small tokens of remem-
brance.

Mr. Banks, being desirous of obtaining a drawing of the Morai,
which Tootahah had in his possession at Eparre, Captain Cook
accompanied him thither in the pinnace, together with Dr.
Solander. Immediately upon landing they repaired to Tootahah’s
house, where they were met by Oberea and several others. A
general good understanding prevailed. Tupia came back with
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 49





them, and they promised to visit the gentlemen early the next
day, as they were told the ship would then sail.

On the 13th these friendly people came very early on board,
and the ship was surrounded with a vast number of canoes, filled
with Indians of the lower sort. Between eleven and twelve they
weighed anchor, and took their leave of the natives, who could
not restrain their tears. Tupia supported himself through the
scene with a becoming fortitude, and though tears flowed from
his eyes, the effort he made to conceal them did him additional
honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, and waving
his hand, took a last farewell of his country. Thus they departed
from Otaheite, after a stay of just three months.

According to Tupia’s account, this island could furnish above
6,000 fighting men. The produce is + bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts,
bananas, sweet potatoes, yams, sugar-canes, the paper mulberry,
several sorts of figs, with many other plants and trees, all which
the earth produces spontaneously or with little culture. They
have no European fruits, garden stuffs, pulse, nor grain of any
kind. The tame animals are hogs, dogs, and poultry: there are
also wild ducks, pigeons, parroquets, and a few other birds. The
only quadrupeds are rats, and_not_a_serpent.is to be seen. In
the sea is a great variety of excellent fish, which constitute their
greatest luxury.

The people in general are of larger make than the Europeans.
The males are mostly tall, robust, and finely shaped; the women
of the higher class are about the size of our English ladies, but
those of inferior rank are below our standard, and some of them
very short. Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive,. or
what we call a brunette. Their skins are delicately smooth and
agreeably soft; their faces in general are handsome, and their
eyes full of sensibility. Their teeth are remarkably white and
regular, and their hair for the most part black. The men, unlike
the aboriginal inhabitants of America, have long beards, which
they wear in various shapes. Their motions are easy and grace-
ful, and their behaviour, when unprovoked, affable and courteous.
Contrary to the custom of most other nations, the women of this
country cut their hair short, whereas the men wear it long, some-

times hanging loose upon their shoulders, at other times tied in
D
50 - COOK'S VOVAGES.



a knot on the crown of the head, in which they stick the feathers
of birds of various colours. A piece of cloth, of the manufacture
of the country, is frequently tied round the heads of both sexes in
the manner of a turban, and the women plait their human hair
into long strings which are tied on the forehead by way of
ornament.

They stain their bodies by indenting or pricking the flesh with
a small instrument of bone, cut into short teeth, which indentures
they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture prepared from the
smoke of an oily nut and water. This operation, called by the
natives tattaowing, whence we derive the term tattooing, is ex-
ceedingly painful, and leaves an indelible mark on the skin. It
is usually performed when they are about ten or twelve years of
age, and on different parts of the body; the instrument employed
has twenty teeth, and at each stroke the blood issues; both
males and females are compelled to undergo the operation.
They clothe themselves in cloth and matting of various kinds ;
the first they wear in fine, the latter in wet weather. The
garments are in different forms, no shape being observed in the
pieces, nor are they sewed together. The women of the superior
class wear three or four pieces; one, which is of considerable
length, they wrap several times round the waist, and it falls down
to the middle of the legs. Two or three other short pieces, with
a hole cut through the middle of each, are placed one on another ;
and their heads coming through the holes, the long ends hang
before and behind, while both sides being open, they have the
free use of their arms.

The dress of the men is very similar, differing only in this,
that one part of the garment, instead of falling below the knees,
is brought between the legs. This dress is worn by all ranks of
people, the only distinction being quantity in the superior class.
At noon both sexes appear almost naked, wearing only a piece of
cloth tied round the waist. Their faces are shaded from the sun
with small bonnets made of cocoa-nut leaves or matting, which
they construct in a few minutes. The men sometimes wear a
sort of wig of human or dog’s hair, or of cocoa-nut strings, woven
ona single thread, and hanging down behind. Both men and
women wear ear-rings on one side, consisting of shells, stones,
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 51





berries, or small pearls; but they soon gave the preference to the
beads brought by the Endeavow’s company. The boys and
girls go quite naked; the first till they are seven or eight years
old, the latter till they are about five.

The natives of Otaheite seldom use their houses but to sleep
in or to avoid the rain, and they eat their meals under the shade
of atree. Their clothes serve them for covering at night. There
are no divisions or apartments ; the master and his wife repose in
the middle, next the unmarried females, then the unmarried men,
and in fair weather the servants sleep in the open air. The
houses of the chiefs, however, differ in some particulars. There
are some very small and so constructed as to be carried in
canoes; all sides of them are enclosed with the leaves of the
cocoa-nut; the air nevertheless penetrates. In these the chief
and his wife only sleep. There are also houses which are general
receptacles for the inhabitants of a district, many of them being
more than 200 feet in length, 40 in breadth, and 70 or 80 feet
high. They are constructed at the common expense, and have
an area on one side, surrounded with low palisades, but, like the
others, without walls.

The cookery consists chiefly in baking. When a chief kills a
hog, which is seldom, he divides it equally among his vassals.
Dogs and fowls are more common food. When the bread-fruit
is not in season, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, etc., are sub-
stituted in its stead. They bake their bread-fruit in a manner
which renders it somewhat like a mealy potato. Of this three
dishes are made by beating them up with bananas, plantains, and
sour paste, which is called by them mahie. Their drink is
generally confined to water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut; some
of them would drink so freely of the English liquors as to become
quite intoxicated, though they were never known to practise a
debauch of this kind a second time. It was said that their chiefs
sometimes became inebriated by drinking the juice of a plant
called ava, but of this not a single instance occurred during the
time the Lndeavour remained at the island.

Chiefs eat generally alone, unless when visited by a stranger,
who is permitted sometimes to be a mess-mate. They sit on the
ground, with leaves of trees spread before them as a table-cloth.
52 COOK’S VOYAGES.

Their attendants, who are numerous, having placed a basket
before the chiefs, containing their provisions, and cocoa-nut shells
of fresh and salt water, seat themselves around them; they then
wash their mouths and hands; after which they eat a handful
of bread-fruit and fish, dipped in salt water, alternately, till the
whole is consumed, taking a sip of salt water between almost
every morsel. The bread-fruit and fish is succeeded by a second
course, consisting of either plantains or apples, which they never
eat without being pared. During this time a soft fluid of paste is
prepared from the bread-fruit, which they drink out of cocoa-nut
shells. This concludes the meal, and they wash their hands and
mouths again as at the beginning. They eat an astonishing
amount of food at a meal. Mr. Banks and others saw one of
them devour three fish of the size of a small carp, four bread-fruits
as large as a common melon, thirteen or fourteen plantains seven
inches long, and about half as big round, to all which was added
a:quart of paste to wash down and digest the whole.

The inhabitants of this island, though apparently fond of the
pleasures of society, have yet an aversion to holding any inter-
course with each other at their meals, and they are so rigid in
the observance of this custom, that even brothers and sisters
have their separate baskets of provisions, and génerally sit some
yards apart, when they eat with their backs to each other, and
without exchanging a word. The middle-aged of superior
rank usually take a siesta after dinner, but older people are not
so indolent.

Music, dancing, wrestling, and shooting with the bow con-
stitute the greatest part of their-diversions. Flutes and drums
are the only musical instruments among them. Their drums are
formed of a circular piece of wood, hollow at one end only, which
is covered with the skin of a shark, and beaten with the hand
instead of a stick. Their songs are extempore and frequently in
rhyme, but consisting only of couplets, which are often sung by
way of evening amusements, between sunset and bed-time;
during this interval they burn candles made of an oily nut, fixing
them one above another upon a small stick, which is run through
the middle. Some of these candles will burn a long time and
afford a good light.
THE FIRST VOYAGE. "53

Personal cleanliness is much esteemed among these Indians.
Both sexes are particular in washing three times a day—when
they rise, at noon, and again before they go to rest. They are
also cleanly in their clothes, so that no disagreeable effluvia are
found to arise in the largest assemblies,

Cloth is the chief manufacture of Otaheite, and of this there
are three sorts, which are made out of the bark of different trees,
namely, the mulberry, the bread-fruit, and a tree which bears
some resemblance to the West Indian wild fig-tree. The first of
these produces the finest cloth, which is seldom worn but by
those of the first rank. The next quality is made of the bread-
fruit tree, and the coarsest of that which resembles the wild-fig
tree. This last sort, though the coarsest, is manufactured only in
small quantities. :

Matting of various kinds is another manufacture, in which in
many respects they excel Europeans. They make use of the
‘coarser quality to sleep upon, and in wet weather they wear the
finer. They excel in basket and wicker-work, and both men and
women employ themselves in working them in a great variety of
patterns. ‘They make ropes and lines in all sizes of the bark of
the poerou, and theirnets for fishing are made of these lines.
‘They make thread of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, with which they
fasten together the several parts of their canoes, the forms of
which are various, according to the use to which they are applied.
The fishing lines are esteemed the best in the world, made of the
bark of the erowa, a kind of nettle which grows on the mountains.
They are strong enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous
fish, such as bonetas and albicores.

The tools which these people make use of for building houses,
constructing canoes, hewing stones, and for felling, cleaving,
carving, and polishing timber, consist of nothing more than an
adze of stone and a chisel of bone, most commonly that of a
man’s arm ; and for a file, or polisher, they make use of a rasp of
coral and coral sand. The blades of their adzes are extremely
tough, but not very hard ; they are of various sizes, those for fell-
ing wood weigh six or seven pounds, and others, which are used
for carving, only a few ounces.

Some of the smaller boats are made of the bread-fruit tree,
cA. = COOK’S VOYAGES.



which is wrought without much difficulty, being of a light spongy
nature. Instead of planes, they use their adzes with great dex-
terity. Their canoes are all shaped with the hand, the Indians
not being acquainted with the method of warping a plank. Of
these they have two kinds, one used for short trips, and the other
for longer voyages. These boats are in no degree proportionate,
being from 60 to 70 feet in length, and not more than a thirtieth
part in breadth. The ivahahs, or war-boats, are fastened together
side by side when they go to sea, at the distance of a few feet, by
strong wooden poles, which are laid across them and joined to

“each side. A:stage or platform is raised on the forepart, about

ro or 12 feet long, upon which stand the fighting men, whose
missile weapons are slings and spears. Beneath these stages the
rowers sit, who supply the place of those who are wounded. The
pahies, er sea-going boats, in going from one island to another,
are out sometimes a month, and often a fortnight or twenty days,
and if they had convenience to stow more provisions, they could
keep the sea much longer. These vessels are very useful in land-
ing, and putting off from the shore in a surf, for by their great
length and high stern they land dry, when the Endeavour’s boats
could scarcely land at all.

The care of the sick belongs to the priests, whose office is
hereditary, and whose method of cure consists generally of
prayers and ceremonies which are repeated till the patients re-
cover or die. ;

The religion of these islanders appears to be very mysterious.
The Supreme Being they style “The Causer of Earthquakes.”
They suppose that the chiefs and principal people will have the
preference to those of lower ranks in a future state, and that the
Deity takes no particular cognisance of their actions.

Their weapons consist of slings, in the use of which they are
extremely dexterous, and of long clubs, remarkably hard, with
which they fight obstinately and cruelly, giving no quarter to their
enemies in battle.

On the 13th of July, 1769, the Hndeavour quitted Otaheite.
Captain Cook was informed by Tupia that four islands, which he

tance of about one or two days’ sail, and that hogs, fowls, and




















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































VALLEY IN HUAHEINE.


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 57



other refreshments, which had been very scarce, were to be got
there in abundance.

On the 16th they sounded near the north-west part of the
island of Huaheine, but found no bottom at seventy fathoms.
Several canoes put off, but the Indians seemed fearful of coming
near the ship, till the sight of Tupia removed their apprehensions.
They then came alongside, and the king of the island, with his
queen, came on board. They seemed surprised at whatever was
shown them, but made no inquiries after anything but what was
offered to their notice. The king, whose name was Oree, as a token
of amity, proposed exchanging names with Captain Cook, which was
readily acceded to.

Having anchored in a small but convenient harbour on the
west side of the island (called by the natives Owparre), the captain
went on shore, acconipanied by Mr. Banks and some officers,
with the king and Tupia. The moment they landed, Tupia un-
covered himself as low as the waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse
to follow his example. Being seated, he began a speech which
lasted about twenty minutes ; the king, who stood opposite to
him, answering him in what seemed set replies. During this
harangue, Tupia delivered, at different times, a handkerchief, a
black silk neckcloth, some plantains and beads, as presents to
their Eatua or Deity; and in return received a hog, some young
plantains, and two bunches of feathers, all which were carried
on board. These ceremonies were considered as a kind of rati-
fication. of a treaty between the English and the King of Hua-
heine.

On the roth, in exchange for some hatchets, they obtained three
very large hogs. As they intended to sail in the afternoon, King
Oree and others of the natives went on board to take their leave.
Captain Cook presented to Oree a small pewter plate, stamped
with this inscription, “‘ His Britannic Majesty’s Ship Lndeavour,
Captain Cook, Commander. July 16th, 1769.” They gave him
also some medals or counters, resembling English coins, and
other trifles, which he promised to keep. From Huaheine, which
is about sixty miles from Otaheite, they sailed for the island of
Ulietea, distant seven or eight leagues.

On the 2oth the Hndeavour anchored in a bay on the north
58 COOK'S VOYAGES.



side of that island. ‘Iwo canoes soon came off from the shore,
and the natives brought with them two small hogs, which they
exchanged for some nails and beads. The captain, Mr. Banks,
and other gentlemen now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia,
who introduced them with the same kind of ceremonies that had
taken place on their landing at Huaheine; after this Captain
Cook took possession of this and the adjacent islands, in the
name of his Britannic Majesty.

On the 24th they put to sea, and steered northward within the
reef, towards an opening about five or six leagues distant, in
effecting which’ they were in danger of striking on a rock, the
soundings suddenly deepening to “two fathoms,” supposed to be
the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of
these islands, are as steep as a wall.

On the 25th, they.were within a league or two of the island of
Otaha, but could not get near enough to land, the wind being
contrary until the morning, when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander
went in the long-boat with the master, to sound a harbour on the
east side of the island, which they found safe and convenient.
They then went on shore and purchased a large quantity of plan-
tains and some hogs and fowls.

They made sail to the northward, and finding themselves to
windward of a harbour on the west side of Ulietea, on the 2nd of
August, they moored in twenty-eight fathoms. Many of the
natives came off and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, which
were purchased upon very moderate terms. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander went on shore and spent the day very agreeably, the
natives showing them very great respect. Being conducted to the
houses of the chief people, they found those who had run hastily
before them, standing on each side of a long mat spread upon the
ground, and the family sitting at the further end of it.

In one of the houses they were entertained with a dance, differ-
ent from any they had yet seen. The performer put upon his
head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylin-
drical form, covered with feathers, and edged round with shark’s
teeth. With this head-dress he began to dance with a slow
motion, frequently moving his head so as to describe a circle with
the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the






































































































































































































































































































































































A NATIVE DANCE.

THE FIRST VOYAGE. : 61



faces of the bystanders as to make them jump back. This they
considered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always pro-
duced a hearty laugh when practised upon any of the English
gentlemen. On the 3rd they met with another company of
dancers, consisting of six men and two women. ‘The dancers
were some of the principal people of the island, and though they
were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling parties of
Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the bystanders. ‘The women
wore a considerable quantity of plaited hair, ornamented with
flowers, which were stuck in with taste, and made an elegant head-
dress. They advanced sideways, keeping time with great exact-
ness to the drums, which beat quick and loud ; soon after they
began to shake themselves in a very whimsical manner, and put
their bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes sitting
down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and
resting on their knees and elbows, moving their fingers at the
same time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. Between
the dances of the women a kind of dramatic interlude was per-
formed by the men, consisting of dialogues as well as dancing ;
but they could not learn the subject of this interlude.

Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen were
present at a more regular dramatic entertainment the next day.
The performers, who were all men, were divided into two parties,
one dressed in brown, the other in white, by way of distinction.
Tupia being present, informed them that the party in brown acted
the parts of a master and his servants, and the party in white a gang
of thieves. The master having produced a basket of meat, which
he gave in charge to his servants, the party in white exhibited a
variety of expedients in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the
brown as many in preventing the accomplishment of the design.
After some time had been spent in this manner, those to whom
the basket was intrusted, laying themselves on the ground round
it, pretended to fall asleep; the other party availed themselves of
this opportunity, and carried off their booty; the servants awaking
soon after, discovered their loss, but made no search after the
basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before.

On Saturday, the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large
pieces of cloth, many of them from forty to sixty yards in length,
62 COOK'S VOYAGES.

‘with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain
Cook asa present from the king of the neighbouring island of
Bolabola, with a message to the effect that he was then on the
island, and intended waiting on the captain. He, however, did
not visit them according to his promise, but sent three young
women to demand something in return for his present. After
dinner they set out to visit the king on shore, since he did not
think proper to come on board. As he had conquered Bolabola,
and was the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were
greatly surprised at finding a poor feeble old dotard, half blind,
and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received
them without that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met
with among the other chiefs. On the gth, having stopped a leak,
and taken on board a fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of
the harbour, and flattered themselves that the fowls and hogs
would be a sufficient supply for the voyage, but in this they were
disappointed, for the hogs could not be brought to eat European
grain, or any provender that the ship afforded, and they were
under the necessity of killing them immediately. The fowls also
all died of a disease in the head, with which they were seized
soon after they had been brought on board. Being detained
longer at Ulietea in repairing the ship than they expected, they
did not go on shore at Bolabola, but after giving the general name
of “Society Islands” to the whole group, they pursued their
course, standing to the southward, for an island to which they
were directed by Tupia, at about 100 leagues distant, which they
discovered on the 13th, and were informed by him that it was
called Ohiterea. On the 14th of August they stood in for the
land, and as they approached observed that the Indians were
armed with long lances. A number of them wére soon drawn
together on the beach, and two jumped into the water, endeavour-
ing to gain the boat, but she soon left them, and some others who
had made the same attempt, far behind.

Having doubled the point where they intended to land, they
saw another party of natives standing at the end of it, armed like
those whom they had seen before. Preparations being made for
landing, a canoe full of Indians came off towards them. Tupia
was desired to acquaint them that the English did not intend to


LVHE FIRST VOYAGE. 63





offer violence, but meant to traffic with them for nails, which were
produced. Upon this they came alongside the boat, and accepted
some nails which were given them, appearing well pleased with
the present. In a few minutes, however, several of these people
boarded the boat, designing to drag her on shore; but some
muskets being discharged over their heads, they leaped into the
sea, and having reached the canoe, joined their countrymen, who
stood ready to receive them. The boat pursued the fugitives, but
the crew finding the surf extremely. violent, did not land, but
coasted along shore, to find a more convenient place. After this
it was proposed that the people of the Endeavour should go on
shore and trade with the natives if they would lay aside their
weapons ; but to this they would not agree unless the English
would do the same. As treachery was anticipated, the proposal
was not complied with; and since neither the bay which the
Endeavour entered, nor any other part of the island, furnished a
good harbour or anchorage, it was resolved to proceed to the
southward.

On the rsth, they sailed with a fine breeze, and on the 25th
celebrated the first anniversary of their leaving England. A large
Cheshire cheese, which had been preserved for this festive occa-
sion, was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved

,p,y to be in sound condition.

Land was discovered on Thursday, the 7th of October, and on
the morning of the 8th they came to an anchor opposite the
mouth of a small river, not above half a league from the shore,
Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some others, went
‘on shore in the evening, and proceeded to a few small houses in
the neighbourhood. Some of the natives, who had concealed
themselves, took’ advantage of their absence from the boat, and
rushed out, advancing and brandishing their long wooden lances.
‘The coxswain fired a musket over their heads, but it did not ap-
pear to intimidate them, in consequence of which he levelled his
piece and shot one of them dead on the spot. Struck with
astonishment at the death of their companion, they retreated to
the woods with great precipitation. The report of the gun
brought the advanced party back to the boats, and they returned
immediately to the ship.
64 COOK’S VOYAGES.





On the gtha great number of the natives were seen near the
place where the Englishmen landed the preceding evening, and
the greater part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-
boat, pinnace, and yawl being manned with marines and sailors,
Captain Cook, with the rest of the gentlemen and Tupia, went on
shore, and landed on the opposite side of the river, over against a
spot where several Indians were sitting on the ground. They im-
mediately started up and began to handle their weapons, each
producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of
stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted
round their wrists. Tupia was directed to speak to them in his
language ; and they were agreeably surprised to find that he was.
understood. Their intention at first appeared to bé hostile,
brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner ; upon |
which a musket was fired at some distance from them, and the
ball happening to fall into the water they appeared terrified, and
desisted from their menaces, Tupia informed them the English
desired to traffic with them for provisions, to which they con-
sented, provided the English crossed over to them to the other
side of the river. This was agreed to, upon condition that the
natives would quit their weapons; but the most solemn assur-
ances of friendship could not prevail with them to comply. Not
thinking it prudent, therefore, to cross the river, the English in
turn entreated the Indians to come over to them, and after some
time one of them did so. He was presently followed by several
others. They did not value the beads and iron that were offered
in the way of barter, but proposed to exchange weapons, which
being objected to, the Indians endeavoured to snatch the arms,
but in this attempt they were frustrated, and Tupia gave them to
understand that any further offers of violence would be punished
with instant death. One of them, nevertheless, had the audacity
to snatch Mr. Green’s dagger when his back was turned to them,
and retiring a few paces, flourished it over his head; but his
temerity cost him dear, for Mr. Monkhouse fired 2 musket loaded
with ball, and shot him dead. Soon after the natives retreated
slowly inland, and the English returned to their boats. This be-
haviour of the Indians; added to the want of fresh water, induced
Captain Cook to continue his voyage round the bay, with a hope


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 65,



of inducing some of the natives to come on board, so that by
kind treatment he might establish a good understanding with
them. An event occurred, which, though attended with disagrec-
able circumstances, promised to facilitate this design. Two
canoes appeared, making towards land, and Captain Cook pro-
posed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear
off ; but the Indians in the other, finding it impossible to escape,
began to attack them with their paddles. This compelled the
Endeavour’s people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians
were killed, and the other three, who were young men, jumped
into the water and endeavoured to swim to shore; they were,
however, taken up and conveyed on board. At first they were
greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but Tupia, by
repeated assurances of friendship, removed. their apprehensions.
Having retired to rest in the evening, they slept very quietly.
The next morning preparations were made for sending them to |
their countrymen, at which they expressed great satisfaction ; but
finding the boat approaching Captain Cook’s first landing-place,
they intimated that the inhabitants were foes. The captain,
nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near this spot, resolving
at the same time to protect the youths from any injury that might
be offered them. They had scarcely departed on their return to
their friends when two large parties of Indians advanced hastily
towards them, upon which ‘they again flew to the English for
protection. When the Indians drew near, one of the boys dis-
covered his uncle among them, and a conversation ensued across
the river, in‘which the boy gave a just account of our hospitality,
and took great pains to display his finery. After this the uncle
swam across the river, bringing with him a green bough, a token
of friendship, which was received as such, and several presents
were made him. The three youths, by their own desire, returned
to the ship ; but as the captain intended to sail the next morning
he sent them ashore in the evening, though much against their
inclination.

Captain Cook, on the 11th, set sail in hopes of finding a better
anchoring-place, and in the afternoon the #ndeavour was be-
calmed. - Several canoes, full of Indians, came off from the shore,

who received many presents, and bartered their clothes and some
EB
66 COOK'S VOYAGES.



of their paddles for European commodities. Having finished
their traffic, they returned in such a hurry, that they forgot three
of their companions, who remained on board all night. These
testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia
took great pains to convince them that they were in no danger,
and about seven o’clock the next morning a canoe came off, with
four Indians on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians
in the ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come hear
them, and not till after the former had assured them that the
English did not eat men.

On the rath several Indians came off in a canoe ; they were
disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sang, and at times
appeared peaceably inclined, but at others, to menace hostilities.
Notwithstanding Tupia earnestly invited them to come on board,
none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was
getting clear of the shoals, five canoes, full of Indians, came off,
and seemed to threaten the people on board by brandishing their
lances, and other hostile gestures. A 4-pounder, loaded with
grape-shot, was therefore fired over their heads, which made them
drop astern. Two more canoes came off whilst the Lndeavour
lay at anchor, but the Indians behaved very peaceably, and re-
ceived several presents, but would not come on board.

On Friday, the 13th, they pursued their course. The next
morning they had a view of the inland country. Nine canoes,
full of Indians, came off from the shore, and five of them, after
having consulted together, pursued the ndeavour, apparently
with a hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaiit them that
immediate destruction would ensue if they persevered in their at-
tempts; but words had no influence, and a 4-pounder, with
grape-shot, was fired to give them some notion of the arms of
their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning,
and paddled hastily away. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and
acquainted them that if they came in a peaceable manner, and
left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them, upon
which one of the canoes, submitting to the terms, came alongside
the ship, and recetved many presents.’

a} Lt) 4, On the rsth, in the afternoon, a canoe with a number of armed
Indians came up, and one of them, who was clothed with a black


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 67

skin, found means to defraud the captain of a piece of red _baize,
under pretence of bartering the skin for it. As soon as he had
got the baize into his possession, instead of giving the skin in re-
turn agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them together and ordered
the canoe to put off from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the re-
peated remonstrances of the captain. After a short time, this
_canoe, together with the fishing-boats which had put off at the
same time, came back to the ship, and trade was again began.
During this second traffic with the Indians, one of them unex-
pectedly seized Tupia’s little boy, Taiyota, and pulling him into
his canoe, instantly put off and paddled away with: the utmost
speed ; several muskets were immediately fired at them, and one
of them receiving a wound, they let go the boy, who before was
held down in the bottom of the canoe. ‘Taiyota, taking advant-
age of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea and
swam back towards the Hndeavour. He was taken on board
without receiving any harm, but his strength was so much ex-
hausted with the weight of his clothes, that it was with great
difficulty he reached the ship. In consequence of this attempt to
carry off Taiyota, Captain Cook called the cape off which it
happened, Cape Kidnappers.

The #ndeavour now passed a small island, which was named
Bare Island. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape
Turnagain to a headland, and on the 19th named a peculiar-look-
ing cape, Gable-end Foreland. On Friday, the 2oth, they anchored
ina bay about two leagues further to the northward, to which they
were invited by some natives in canoes, who behaved very amic-
ably, and pointed to a place where they said they would find
plenty of fresh water. Two chiefs came on board; they were
dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers,
the other with dog-skin. .They were presented with linen and
some spike-nails, though they did not value the last so much as
the inhabitants of the other islands. The rest of the Indians
traded without the least attempt at imposition, and Tupia was
directed to acquaint them with the views of the English in coming
hither, and promised that they should receive no injury if they
offered none. In the afternoon the chiefs returned, and towards
evening the captain, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Banks went on shore,
638 COOK’S VOVAGES.



They were courteously received by the inhabitants, who did not
appear in numerous bodies, and in many instances were scrup-
ulously attentive not to give offence. They made an agreeable
tour round the bay, and had the pleasure of finding two streams
of fresh water. They remained on shore all night, and the next
day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander discovered several birds, among
which were quails and large pigeons. Many stages for drying fish
were observed, and some houses with fences. They saw dogs
with pointed ears, and very ugly. Sweet potatoes were found
also. The cloth-plant grew wild. In the neighbouring valleys
the lands were laid out in regular plantations ; and in the bay
they caught plenty of crabs, cray-fish, and horse-mackerel, larger
than those upon the English coasts.

The women paint their faces with a mixture of red ochre and
oil, which, as they were very plain, rendered them even less pre-
possessing. The faces of the men were not in general painted,
but they were daubed with dry red ochre from head to foot, their
apparel not excepted. Though in personal cleanliness they were
inferior to those of Otaheite, yet in some particulars they surpassed
them.

-On the evening of Sunday, the 22nd, they weighed anchor and
put to sea, but the wind being contrary, they stood for another
bay a little to the south. They found a watering-place in a small
cove a little within the south point of the bay, distant about a
mile.

On Monday, the 23rd, in the afternoon, they went on shore,
and found the water extremely good, also plenty of wood; and
the natives showed them much civility. In a valley, between two
very high hills, they saw a curious rock that formed a large arch.
This cavern was 70 feet in length, 30 in breadth, and nearly 50
in height, and commanded a view of the bay and the hills on the
other side.

On their return they met an old man, who entertained them
with the military exercise of the natives, which he performed with
the patoo-patoo and the lance. The former is used as a battle-
axe; and the latter is 18 or 20 feet in length, made of hard wood,
and sharpened at each end. A stake was substituted for a sup-
posed enemy. The old warrior first attacked him with his lance,

—


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 69

advancing with a most furious aspect. Having pierced him, the
patoo-patoo was used to demolish his head, at which he struck
with a force which would at one blow have split any man’s skull.
At the watering-place the Indians sang their war song, which was
a strange medley of sighing, shouting, and grimace, at which’the
women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and other gentle-
men went upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met
with a canoe which was 67 feet in length, 6 in breadth, and 4 in
height ; her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of
trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved.

They also came to a large unfinished house; the posts which
supported it were ornamented with carvings that. did not appear
to have been done upon the spot, though the people seemed to
have a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and the tops of
walking-sticks evinced. Their favourite figure is a volute or spiral,
which is sometimes single, double, or triple, and is done with
great exactness, though the only instruments were an axe, made
of stone, and a chisel. Their taste is extremely whimsical and
extravagant, scarcely ever imitating nature. Their huts are built
under trees, in the form of an oblong square; the door low on
the side, with the windows at the ends. Reeds covered with
thatch compose the walls ; the beams of the eaves, which come to
the ground, being also covered with thatch.

On the 29th of October the Zndeavour quitted the bay, and
sailing to the northward, came to a small island about a mile
distant from the north-east point of the mainland ; and this being
the most eastern part of it, the captain named it East Cape, and
the island, East Island. Continuing under sail, they came to an

_ island which he named White Island. On the tst_of November
forty canoes came off as before, threatening to attack the

Lindeavour. One of their chiefs flourished his pike and made
several harangues, seeming to bid defiance to those on board the
vessel. At last, after repeated invitations, they came close along-
side; but instead of showing a disposition to trade, the harangu-
ing chief took up a stone, which he threw against the ship, and
they immediately after seized their arms. They were informed by
Tupia of the dreadful consequences of commencing hostilities,
but this admonition remained unheeded. A piece of cloth, how-




70 COOK?S VOYAGES.



ever, happening to attract their eyes, they began to be more mild
and reasonable. A quantity of cray-fish, muscles, and conger-eels
were now purchased. No fraud was attempted by this company
of Indians, but some others that came after them took goods
from the vessel without making proper returns. As one of them,
who had rendered himself remarkable for these practices, and
seemed proud of his skill in them, was putting off with his canoe,
a musket was fired over his head, which circumstance produced
good order for the present; yet when they began to traffic with
the sailors they renewed their frauds, and one of them was bold
enough to seize some linen that was hung to dry, and run away
with it. In order to induce him to return, a musket was fired
over his head, but this not answering the end, he was shot in the
back with small shot, yet he still persevered in his design. This
being perceived by his countrymen, they dropped astern and set
up the song of defiance. In consequence of their behaviour,
though they made no preparations to attack the vessel, the captain
gave orders to fire a 4-pounder, and its effects on the water so
terrified them that they retreated with precipitation.

On the 4th, at daybreak, no less than twelve canoes made their’
appearance, containing nearly 200 men, armed with spears, lances,
and stones, who seemed determined to attack the ship, and would
have boarded her had they known which quarter was most suit-
able for attack. While they were paddling round her, the
crew meantime being on the watch in the rain, Tupia, at the
request of the captain, used a number of dissuasive arguments to
prevent their carrying their designs into execution; but nothing
could pacify them till some muskets were fired. They then laid
aside their hostile intentions, and began to trade ; yet they could
not refrain from their fraudulent practices, for, after they had fairly
bartered two of their weapons, they would not deliver up a third,
for which they had received cloth, and only laughed at those who
demanded an equivalent. The offender was wounded with small
shot, but his countrymen took not the least notice of him, and
continued to trade without any discomposure.

On the morning of the fifth the Indians came off to the ship
again, and behaved much better than they had done the preced-
ing day. An old man in particular, named Tojava informed
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 91





them that they were often visited by freebooters from the north,
who stripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and at
times made captives of their wives and children, and that being
ignorant who the English were after their first arrival, the natives
had been much alarmed, but were now satisfied of their good in-
tentions. He added that for their security against those plunderers,
their houses were built contiguous to the tops of the rocks, where
they could better detend themselves. Having despatched the
long-boat and pinnace into the bay to haul and dredge for fish
with little success, the Indians testified their friendship, and
brought for sale great quantities of fish dressed and dried ; they
also supplied them with wood and good water. While the English
were out with their guns, the people who stayed by the boats saw
two of the natives fight. The battle was begun with their lances,
but some old men taking these away, they were obliged to decide
the quarrel, like Englishmen, with their fists.

On the 9th the Indians brought a prodigious quantity of mac-
kerel, which they sold at a low rate, and the cargoes purchased
were so great that the ship’s company cured as many as would
serve for a month’s provision.
some of the gentlemen to observe the transit of Mercury. The
observation of the ingress was made by Mr. Green alone, and
Captain Cook took the sun’s altitude to ascertain the time. While
the observation was making, a canoe, with various commodities
on board, came alongside the ship, and Mr. Gore, the officer who
had then the command, being desirous of encouraging them to
traffic, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than
any they had yet seen, which was immediately seized by one of

_the Indians, who obstinately refused either to return it or give
anything in exchange. He paid dearly, however, for his temerity,
being shot dead on the spot. His death alarmed all the rest ;
they fled with great precipitancy, and could not be induced to
renew their traffic. But when the Indians on shore had heard
the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the
conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited
his fate.

The weather being favourable, the transit of Mercury was viewed
72 COOK’S VOYAGES.



without a cloud intervening. In consequence of this observation
being made here, this bay was called Mercury Bay.

The Indians sup before sunset, when they eat fish and birds,
baked or roasted on a stick planted in the ground near the fire.
A female mourner was present at one of their suppers. She sat
on the ground and wept incessantly, at the same time repeating
some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not
explain. At the termination of each period she cut herself with
a shell upon her breast, her hands, or her face. Notwithstanding
this spectacle greatly affected the gentlemen, all: the Indians who
sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved.

Abundance of oysters were procured from a bed which had
been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day
the ship was visited by two canoes, who bartered with honesty.
Captain Cook sailed from this island, having, on the 15th of
November, taken possession of it in the name of his sovereign.

On the morning of the 18th, the Endeavour steered between
the mainland and an island, which seemed very fertile, and as ex-
tensive as Ulietea. Several canoes, filled with Indians, came
alongside, and they sang their war-song, but the Hndeavour’s
people paying them no attention, they threw a volley of stones
and then paddled away; however, they presently returned and
renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, but they answered
by brandishing their weapons, intimating that they would destroy
them all. The Z#ndeavour cast anchor in the evening, and early
the next morning sailed up an inlet. Soon after the canoes
paddled off, and some of the Indians came on board. ‘They
knew Tojava, and called Tupia by his name. Having received
some presents they returned peaceably, and apparently highly
gratified.

On Monday, the 2oth, after having run five leagues, they came
to anchor in a bay called by the natives Ooahaouragee, which
Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and others, set off in the
pinnace to examine. They landed on the west side to inspect
the lofty.trees that adorned its banks; at the entrance of a wood
they met with a tree 98 feet high from the ground, quite straight,
and 19 feet in circumference; and as they advanced they found
others still larger, Captain Cook gave to this river the name of


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 73



Thames, it having a resemblance to the river of that name in
England. . ;

They made sail early on the 22nd, and kept under weigh till
the flood obliged them once more to come to an anchor. The
captain and Dr. Solander went on shore to the west, but made no
observations worth relating. After these gentlemen departed, the
ship was surrounded with canoes, and Mr. Banks remained on
board, that he might trade with the Indians, who bartered their
arms and clothes for paper; but though they were in general
honest in their dealings, one of them took a fancy to a half-minute
glass, and being detected in secreting it, he was punished with the
cat-o-nine tails. The Indians attempted to interfere, and they
got their arms from their canoes, but being informed of the nature
of the intended punishment, they appeared satisfied, and the
criminal not only received a dozen, but afterwards a good drub-
bing from an old man who was thought to be his father. On the
24th they kept steering along the shore, anchoring between the
tides. No inhabitants were visible, but from the fires perceived
at night, it was concluded to be inhabited.

On the 26th, towards night, seven large canoes paddled off with
about 200 men, some of whom came on board. ‘These were
followed by two -larger canoes, adorned with carving. The
Indians, after holding a conference, came alongside the vessel.
They were armed with various weapons, and seemed to be of the
higher order. Their patoo-patoos were made of stone and
whalebone, ornamented with dogs’ hair, and were held in high
estimation.

On the 2gth, having weathered a point of land which the captain
named Cape Brett, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large
bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands,
and the ship was soon surrounded by thirty-three large canoes,
containing nearly 300 Indians, all armed. Some of them were
admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broadcloth
to one of the chiefs and some small presents to the others. They
traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the firearms,
with the effects of which they were not unacquainted ; but whilst
the captain was at dinner, on a signal given: by one of the chiefs, all
the Indians quitted the ship and attempted to tow away the buoy.
74 COOK'S VOYAGES.



A musket was first fired over them, but without effect, and then
small shot was fired at them, but it fell short. A musket, loaded
with ball, was, therefore, ordered to be fired, and a son of the
chief was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them im-
mediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their con-
fusion, a round shot was fired which reached the shore, and as
soon as they landed they ran to search for it. If they had been
under any kind of discipline they might have proved a formidable
enemy.

Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander landed in a small
cove in the island, and were presently surrounded by nearly 400
armed Indians ; but the captain, not suspecting any hostile design
on the part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The
Englishmen marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that
they were not to pass it. They did not infringe upon this boun-
dary for some time; but at length they sang the song of defiance,
and began to dance, whilst a party endeavoured to drag the:
Findeavour’s boat on shore; these signals for an attack being.
followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen
judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly the captain
fired his musket, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by
Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed
his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they
retreated, but were rallied again by one of their chiefs, who
shouted and waved his patoo-patoo. The doctor now pointed
his musket at this hero, .and hit him, when he took flight with
the other Indians. They were now at too great a distance for a
ball to reach them ; but these operations being observed from the
ship, she brought her broadside to bear, and by firing over them
soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of
their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being again re-
stored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs, but
suspecting that some of the natives were lurking about with evil
designs, they repaired to the cave, where they found the chief who
had that day received a present from the captain. He came forth
with his wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It ap-
peared that one of the wounded Indians was a brother to this
chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove:
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 45



mortal; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he
was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and
ball; and he was also assured that upon any further hostilities
being committed, ball would be used. This interview terminated
very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the chief
and his companions.

Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the
island, when landing, and gaining an eminence, they had a very
agreeable and romantic view of a great number of small islands,
well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent
village approached unarmed, and testified great humility and sub-
mission. Some of the seamen on-shore, having forced their way
into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes, the captain
showed strict justice in punishing each offender with lashes 3 one
of them being refractory upon this occasion, and complaining of
the hardship of an Englishman being flogged for plundering an
Indian, received six additional lashes.

On Tuesday, the 5th of December, they weighed anchor, but ‘

were soon becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the
shore, were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every
moment to run upon breakers, which appeared above water not
more than a cable’s length distance. Indeed, they were so near
the land that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held
a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach:
They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation
by a fresh breeze suddenly springing up from the shore.

On the 7th, several canoes put off and followed the Zndeavour,

but a light breeze springing up they did not wait for them. On d,
the 17th, they came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, ,

which Captain Cook named North Cape. On the 27th, it blew a
gale from the east, accompanied with heavy showers of rain which
compelled them to bring the ship to, under her mainsail. The
gale continued till the 28th, when it fell about two o’clock in the
morning, but at eight increased to a hurricane, with a prodigious
sea ; at noon the gale somewhat abated, but with heavy squalls. |

January the Ist, 1770, at six in the morning, they tacked and
stood to the eastward, and on the 3rd they saw land, trending
away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It.is

CUM AhYyY

xe

f

| f

ay
vv

0
76 COOK’S VOYAGES.



remarkable that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten
leagues to the westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues,
the distance they were now from Cape Brett.

On the gth they saw high land to the east-north-east, which the
captain named Albatross Point. At about two leagues distance
from this point, to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable
high mountain, equal in height to that of Teneriffe. Its summit
was covered with snow, and it was named Mount Egmont. At
this place Captain Cook proposed to careen the ship, and also
to take in a fresh supply of wood and water; accordingly, on the
rth, at daybreak, they steered for an inlet, when, it being almost
a calm, the ship was carried by a current or the tide within a
cable’s length of the shore, but she got clear by the assistance of
the boats. At two they anchored in a safe cove on the north-west
side of the bay, and moored in eleven fathoms of water, with a
soft bottom. Four canoes came off for the purpose, as we
imagined, of reconnoitring ; for none of the Indians would venture
on board except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank. His
countrymen expostulated with him, laid hold of him, and took
great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not
divert him from his purpose. He was received with the utmost
hospitality. Tupia and the.old man joined noses, according to
the custom of the country, and having received several presents,
he returned to his associates, who began to dance and laugh, and
then retired to their fortified village.

Captain Cook and other gentlemen now went on shore, where
they met with plenty of wood, and a fine stream of excellent water,
and on hauling the seine were very successful, having caught
three hundredweight of fish in a short time.

On the 16th the crew were employed in careening the ship,
when three canoes came off with a number of Indians, and
brought several of their women with them, a circumstance which)
was thought to be a favourable presage of their peaceable dis-
position ; but they soon gave proofs to the contrary by attempting
to stop the long-boat, when Captain Cook had recourse to the
old expedient of firing shot over their heads, which intimidated
them for the present. Tupia asked them if they had ever before
seen a ship so large as the Zndeavour, to which they replied in
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 77



the negative; nor had they heard that such a vessel had ever
been on their coast. The inhabitants catch their fish, which are
plentiful here, in cylindrical nets, extended by several hoops at
the bottom and contracted at the top. The fish going in to feed
upon the bait are caught in great abundance. There are also
birds of various kinds, and in great numbers.

Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander visited another
cove, about two miles from the ship. They found here a family
of Indians, who appeared greatly alarmed at their approach;
these people were cannibals, there being several human bones
that had lately been dressed and picked. They made no secret
of this abominable custom, but, with great composure, answered
Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, that his conjectures
were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by
signs that they thought human flesh delicious food. There was a
woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking
manner, and it appeared that she had thus wounded herself be-
cause her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.

Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which
they rated at a very high price. They seemed to pride them-
selves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a particular
pleasure in showing the manner in which they killed their enemies.
This was done by first knocking them down with their patoo-
patoos, and then ripping up their bellies.

On the 20th, in the morning, Mr. Banks purchased of the old
Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very unwilling to part
with. The skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains
were extracted, and, like the others, it was preserved from putre-
faction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and
the reluctance with which they bartered any, they were considered
as trophies of war and testimonials of their valour. Some of the
ship’s company, in their excursions, met with fortifications that
had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were sur-
rounded by two or three wide ditches, with a drawbridge, such as,
though simple in its construction, would answer every purpose
against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence
made with stakes fixed in the earth.

On the 24th they visited a hippah, or fort, which was situated
78 COOK’S VOYAGES.



on a, very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a very fine
natural arch, one side of which joined the land and the other rose
out of the sea. The inhabitants received them with great civility,
and very readily showed everything that was curious.

On the 25th the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on
shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were
among the creeks catching fish; they behaved very civilly, and
received some trifling. presents from the gentlemen, who were
loaded, by way of return, with the kisses and embraces of both
sexes, young and old. The next day, being the 26th, they made
another excursion, in order to survey, from the summit of a hill,
the strait which passes between the eastern and western seas.
Before their departure from this hill they erected a pyramid of
stones, and left some musket balls, small shot, and beads, as
memorials that this place had been visited by Europeans. On
the 27th and 28th they were engaged in making necessary repairs,
catching fish, and refitting the Hndeavour for her voyage.

On Tuesday, the 30th, some of the people who were sent out
early in the morning to gather celery, met with about twenty
Indians, among whom were five or six women whose husbands
had lately been made captives. They sat down upon the ground
together and cut many parts of their bodies in a most shocking
manner with shells and sharp stones, in testimony of their exces-
sive grief. In the meantime their male companions paid not the
least attention to them, but with the greatest unconcern imagin-
able employed themselves in repairing their huts.

The carpenter having prepared two posts, they were set up as
memorials, being inscribed with the date of the year, and the month,
and the ship’s name. One of them was erected at the watering-place,
with the union jack hoisted at the top, and the other in the island
that lies nearest the sea, called by the natives Motuara; and the
inhabitants being informed that these posts were set up to acquaint
other adventurers that the Zxdeavour had touched this place, they
promised never to destroy them. Captain Cook named this inlet
Queen Charlotte’s Sound, and took possession of it in the name
> of his sovereign.

On the 5th of February they got under weigh, but the wind
soon falling, came to anchor a little above Motuara.


YE FIRST VOYAGE. 79

f



On the following morning the Zndeavour sailed out of the bay,
which, from the savage custom of eating human flesh common to
its people, the ship’s company called Cannibal_Bay. The in-
habitants, who numbered about 400, are scattered along the coast,
and upon any appearance of danger retire to their hippahs, or
forts. They are poor, and their canoes are without ornaments.
The traffic with them was wholly for fish; but they had some
knowledge of iron, which the natives of other parts had not.

The Lndeavour stood over to the eastward, and was carried by
the current close to one of the islands at the entrance of Queen
Charlotte’s Sound. They were every moment in danger of being
dashed to pieces against the rock, but after having veered out 150
fathoms of cable, the ship was brought up, when the rocks were
not more than two cables’ length distant. In this situation they
remained, being obliged to wait for the tide’s ebbing, which did
not take place till after midnight.

On the 7th, at eight o’clock in the morning, they weighed
anchor, and a fresh breeze, with an ebb tide, quickly bore them
through the strait.

The next morning they were off Cape Palliser, and found that
the land stretched away to the north-eastward of Cape Turnagain.
In the afternoon three canoes, ornamented. like those on the
northern coast, put off from the shore. There was no difficulty
in persuading the Indians to come on board, and they demeaned
themselves very civilly, a mutual exchange of presents taking
place. Their dress resembled that of the natives of Hudson’s
Bay. One old man was tattooed in a very peculiar manner, and
had likewise a red streak across his nose, while his hair and beard
were remarkable for their whiteness. His upper garment was
made of flax, and had a wrought border, and underneath he wore
a sort of cloth petticoat. Teeth and green stones decorated his
ears, and it was concluded, from his deportment, that he was a
person of distinguished rank among his countrymen.

On the 14th about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came
Within a stone’s throw of the ship. As they surveyed her with
surprise, Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to come nearer,
but this they could not be prevailed upon todo. On this account
the place was denominated the island of Lookers-on.
80 COOK’S VOVAGES.



On the 4th of March several whales and seals were seen. On
the gth they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon after another ledge,
at three leagues distance from the shore, which they passed in the
night to the northward, and at daybreak observed the others
under the bows. Proceeding northward, the next day they fell
in with a barren rock about fifteen miles from the mainland, of
great height, and apparently about a mile in circumference; this
was named Solander’s Island.

On the 13th they discovered a bay, containing several islands,
where, if there was depth of water, shipping might find shelter
from all winds. Dusky Bay was the appellation given to it by
the captain, and five high-peaked rocks, for which it was remark-
able, gave to a point the name of Five Fingers. They had now
passed the whole north-west coast of Tovy Poenamoo,. which had
nothing worthy of observation but a ridge of naked and barren
rocks covered with snow. As far as the eye could reach the
prospect was wild, craggy, and desolate. Having sailed round
the whole. of this inhospitable shore by the 27th, Captain Cook
determined to depart. He accordingly went on shore in the
long-boat, and having found a place suitable for mooring the
ship, and a good watering-place, the crew began to fill their
casks, while the carpenter was employed in cutting wood. The
captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went in the pinnace to
examine the bay and the neighbouring country. J.anding there
they found several plants of a species which was before unknown
to them. No inhabitants appeared, but they saw several huts,
which seemed to have been long deserted. Sufficient wood and
water having ‘been taken on board, the vessel was ready to sail by
the time that they returned in the evening, and it was resolved to
steer for the coast of New Holland, and return by the way of the
East Indies,

On the 31st March they took their departure from an eastern
point they named Cape Farewell; the bay from which they sailed
was called Admiralty Bay, and the two capes, Cape Stephens and
Cape Jackson, after the two secretaries of the Board of Admiralty.
They called a bay between the island and Cape Farewell, Blind
Bay, which was supposed to have been the same that was called
Murderer’s Bay by Abel Jansen Tasman, who first discovered New
-) THE FIRST VOYAGE. 81

sv,
a —

* ~ Zealand in L December, 10425 but though he named it Staten Island,
~ 4) wishing to take possession of it for the States- -General, yet, being

“attacked by the Indians, he never went on shore to effect his pur-
pose. The coast being now more accurately examined, was
discovered to consist of two islands (now known as New Zealand),
which were before thought to be a part of the southern continent
so much sought for. They are situated between the 34th and
48th degrees of south latitude, and between the 18rst and 194th
degrees of west longitude. The northern island is called by the
, The former, th though oGnnons in some olde is well Wooded:
_and in every valley there is a rivulet. The soil in those valleys is
light but fertile, and well adapted for the plentiful production of
all fruits, plants, and corn of Europe.

The sea that washes these islands abounds with delicate and
wholesome fish. Wherever the vessel came to anchor, enough
were caught with hook and line only to supply the whole ship’s
company ; and when they fished with nets, every man in the ship
salted as much as supplied him for several weeks. There were
many sorts of fish here which they had never before seen, and
which the sailors named according to their fancies.

About 400 species of plants were found, all of which are un-
known in England, except garden night-shade, sow thistle, two or
three kinds of ferns, and one or two sorts of grass. They found
wild celery and a kind of cress in great abundance on the sea-
shore; and of eatable plants, raised by cultivation only, cocoas,
yams, and sweet potatoes, of which there were large plantations.

There is only. one shrub or tree which produces fruit, a kind of
almost tasteless berry; but there grows on the islands a plant
which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two
kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow and the
other a deep red, and both resembling the leaves of flags. Of
these the natives make lines and cordage much stronger than
anything of the kind in Europe. They likewise split these leaves
into breadths, and by tying slips together form their fishing nets.
Their common apparel, by a simple process, is also made from
them, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from the
fibres.


82 COOK’S VOYAGES,



The natives are as large as the finest races of Europe. Their
complexions are brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard,
and they are stout and well-shaped. As the dress of both sexes
is similar, the voice chiefly distinguishes the women from the
men. The latter are active in a high degree; their hair is black
and their teeth white and even. They appear to be of a gentle
disposition, and treat each other with the utmost kindness; but
they are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity
with the rest. Notwithstanding the custom of eating their
enemies, the circumstances and temper of these people is in
favour of those who might wish to become settlers.

These Indians anoint their hair with oil melted from the fat of
fish or birds. The poorer people use that which is rancid, so that
they have a very disagreeable smell ; but those of superior rank use
fresh oil. . They have combs made of bone and wood, which are
considered as an ornament when stuck upright in the hair. The
men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and
adorn it with the feathers of birds, which they also sometimes
place on each side of the temples. The hair of the women is
worn either flowing over the shoulders or cut short.

Both sexes, but the men more frequently, mark their bodies
with black stains, called amoco. In general the women only
stain the lips, but sometimes mark other parts with black patches.
The men, on the contrary, put on additional marks from year to
year, so that the bodies of those who are very old are almost
covered. Exclusive of the amoco, they mark themselves with
furrows. These furrows make a hideous appearance, the edges
being indented and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the
face are drawn in the spiral form, both cheeks being marked ex-
actly alike, while the paintings on their bodies resemble filigree
work and the foliage in old chased ornaments ; but no two faces
or bodies are painted exactly after the same model. The people
of New Zealand likewise paint their bodies, by rubbing them with
red ochre, either dry or mixed with oil. Their dress is formed of
the leaves of the flags, split into slips, which are interwoven and
made into a kind of matting, the ends, which are seven or eight
inches in length, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of
this matting, being tied over the shoulders, reaches tothe knees ;




























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































NEW ZEALAND pag.



THE FIRST VOYAGE. 85



the other piece, wrapped round the waist, falls almost to the
ground. The men wear the lower garment only at particular
times.

They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting or
shag above mentioned, one of which is as coarse, but beyond all
comparison stronger than the English canvas ; the other, which is
formed of the fibres of the plant, drawn into threads, which cross
and bind each other, resembles the matting on which our dishes
are placed at table.

They have a few dresses ornamented with feathers, and one
man was seen covered wholly with those of the red parrot.

The women never tie their hair on the top of their heads, nor
adorn it with feathers, and are less anxious about dress than the
men ; their lower garment is bound tight round them, except
when they go out fishing, and then they are careful that the men
shall not see them.

The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched so as
to admit a man’s finger. The ornaments of their ears are
feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood ; a great many
of them made use of the nails given them by the English for this
purpose ; and the women sometimes adorn their ears with the
white down of the albatross. They likewise suspend to their ears
chisels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of
their deceased friends. The arms and ankles of the women are
adorned with shells and bones, or anything else through which
they can pass a string. The men wear slung round the neck, by
a string, a piece of green talc or whalebone, with the representa-
tion of a man carved on it. One man had the gristle of his nose
perforated, and a feather passing through it projected over each
‘cheek.

These people show less ingenuity in the structure of their
houses than in anything else belonging to them. ‘They are from
16 to 24 feet long, ro or 12 wide, and 6 or 8 in height. The
frame is of light sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made
of dry grass, firmly knit together. Some of them are lined with
the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole,
which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high
enough to admit a person crawling on his hands and knees, and
86 COOK'S VOVAGES. ©



the roof is sloping. There is a square hole near the door, serv-
ing both for window and chimney, near which is the fireplace.
A plank is placed over the door, adorned with a sort of carving,
and this they consider as an ornamental piece of furniture. The
side walls and roof, projecting 2 or 3 feet beyond the walls at each
end, form a sort of portico, where benches are placed to sit on.
The fire is made in the middle of a hollow square on the floor,
which is inclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls,
their beds consisting of straw laid on the ground. The wealthier,
or those having large families, have three or four houses, inclosed
in their courtyard. Their clothes, arms, feathers, some ill-made
tools, and a chest in which all these are deposited, form all the
furniture of the inside of the house. Their hammers to beat fern
root, gourds to hold water, and baskets to contain provisions, are
placed without the house. One house was found near 4o feet
long, 20 wide, and 14 high. Its sides were adorned with carved
planks, of workmanship superior to the rest; but the building
appeared to have been left unfinished.

The canoes of this country are long and narrow; the larger
sort seem built for war, and will hold from 30 to roo men. One
of those of Tolaga measured nearly 70 feet in length, 6 in width,
and 4 in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of
three lengths, about 2 or 3 inches thick, and tied firmly together
with strong plaiting ; each side was formed of one entire plank,
about 12 inches broad, and about 14 inch thick, which was fitted to
the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Several thwarts
were laid from one side to the other, to which they were securely
fastened, in order to strengthen the canoes. Some few of their
canoes at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, were all made entirely of
one trunk of a tree, which is made hollow by fire ; but by far the
greater part are built after the manner above described. The
smaller boats, which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned at
head and stern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are
composed of white shells; a tongue of enormous size is thrust
out of the mouth, and the whole face is a picture of absolute de-
formity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are
ornamented with open work, and covered with fringes of black
feathers, which gave the whole an air of perfect elegance ; the
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 87



side boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished
with tufts of white feathers. These vessels are rowed by paddles,
between 5 and 6 feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval,
gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle; and the velocity
with which they row with these paddles is very surprising. Their
sails are composed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended
between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each side ;
two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole, serve instead of sheets.
The vessels are steered by two men, each having a paddle, and
sitting in the stern; but they can only sail before the wind, in
which direction they move with considerable swiftness. ;

These New Zealanders use axes, adzes, and chisels, with which
last they likewise bore holes. The chisels are made of jasper, or
of the bone of a man’s arm ; their adzes and axes of a hard black
stone. They use their small jasper tools till they are blunted, and
then throw them away, having no instrument to sharpen them
with. The Indians at Tolaga having been presented with a piece
of glass, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck.
A small bit of jasper was thought to have been the tool they used
in drilling it.

Their tillage is exceilent. A long narrow stake, sharpened to
an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across at a little distance
above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with
the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The soil
being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this instru-
ment alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in ex-
tent.

The seine or large net, which has already been noticed, is pro-
duced by their united labour, and is probably the joint property
of the whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone, and
they have baskets of wicker-work to hold the fish. Their warlike
weapons are spears, darts, battleaxes, and the patoo-patoo. The
spear, which is pointed at the end, is about 16 feet in length, and
they hold it in the middle, so that it is difficult to parry a thrust
with it. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the battle is
hand to hand. They trust chiefly in the patoo-patoo, which is
fastened to their wrist by a strong strap, that it may not be wrested
out of their hands. These are worn in the girdles of people of
88 COOK'S VOYAGES.

superior rank as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff
of distinction, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is
formed of a whale’s rib, is quite white, and adorned with carving,
feathers, and the hair of their dogs. Sometimes they have a
stick 6 feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise ornamented
like a military staff. This honourable mark of distinction was
commonly in the hands of the aged, who were also more daubed
with the amoco. When they came to attack the English, one or
more of these old men thus distinguished were in each canoe.
It was their custom to stop 50 or 60 yards from the ship, when
the chief, rising from his seat, put on a dog’s skin garment, and
holding out his decorated staff, directed them how to proceed.
When they were too far from the ship to reach it with their missile
weapons, they uttered cries of defiance. Thus they would ap-
proach the ship gradually till they were close alongside, still talk-
ing at intervals in a peaceable manner, and answering any ques-
tions that were asked them. Then again their menaces were
repeated, till, encouraged by the supposed timidity of the En-
deavour’s people, they began the war-song and dance, the sure
prelude to an attack, which always followed, and sometimes con-
tinued till the firing of small shot repulsed them; but at others,
they vented their passion by throwing a few stones against the
ship by way of insult.

In the war-dance their limbs are distorted and their faces
agitated with strange convulsive motions : their tongues hang out
of their mouths to an amazing length, and their eyelids are drawn
so as to forma circle round the eye. At the same time they
shake their darts, brandish their spears, and wave their patoo-
patoos to and fro in the air. There is an admirable vigour and
activity in their dancing , and in their song they keep time with
such exactness, that sixty or a hundred paddles, when struck
| against the sides of their boats at once, make only a single report.
In times of peace they sometimes sing in a manner resembling
the war-song, but the dance is omitted. The women, whose
voices are exceedingly melodious and soft, sing likewise in a
musical but mournful manner. One of their instruments of
music is a shell, from which they produce a sound not unlike that
made with a common horn; the other is a small wooden pipe
THE FIRST VOYAGE. &9

not superior in sound to a child’s whistle. They were never
heard to sing, or to produce any measured notes like what we call
a tune.

As to the horrid custom of eating human flesh, prevalent
among them, in most of the caves were found flesh and the bones
of men ; and some of the heads that were brought on board had
false eyes and ornaments in their ears, as if alive. The head pur-
chased by Mr. Banks, and sold with great reluctance, was that of
a young person, and by the contusions on one side, appeared to
have received many violent blows.

The hippahs, or villages of these people, of which there are
several between the Bay of Plenty and Queen Charlotte’s Sound,
are all fortified. In these they constantly reside; but near
Tolaga, Hawk’s Bay, and Poverty Bay, only single houses are to
be seen, at a considerable distance from each other.

Both sexes eat together. The men cultivate the ground, make
nets, catch birds, and go out in their canoes to fish; while the
women are employed in weaving cloth, collecting shell-fish, and
dressing food.

As to the religion of these people, they acknowledge one
Supreme Being and several subordinate Deities. Their mode of
worship could not be learned, nor was any place proper for that
purpose seen. There was, indeed, a small square area encom-
passed with stones, in the middle of which hung a basket of fern
roots on one of their spades. This, they said, was an offering to
their gods, to obtain from them a plentiful crop of provisions.
They gave the same account of the origin of the world, and the
production of mankind, asthe inhabitants of Otaheite.

A great similitude was observed between the dress, furniture,
boats, and nets of the New Zealanders and the inhabitants of the
South Sea Islands, which would seem to denote a common
origin. Indeed, the inhabitants of these different places have a
tradition that their ancestors sprang from another country many
years since, and they both agree that this country was called
Heawige. Tupia, when he accosted the people here in the
language of his own country, was perfectly understood, although
the dialect is different.

On Saturday, the 31st of March, 1770, the Hndeavour sailed
90 COOK’S VOYAGES.

from Cape Farewell in New Zealand, having fine weather and a
fair wind. They steered westward with a fresh gale till the
and of April, when they saw a tropic bird, a sight very unusual
in so high a latitude. On the rsth, they saw a gannet; ard as
this bird never goes far from land, they sounded all night, but
had no ground at 130 fathoms. The day following, a small land
bird perched on the rigging, but they had ne ground at 120
fathoms. On the morning of the roth, they discovered land, to
the southernmost point of which they gave the name of Point
Hicks, in compliment to the first lieutenant, who discovered it.
At noon, in lat. 37° 5’ S. and 210° 29’ W. long., they saw
another remarkable point of land, distant about four leagues.
Captain Cook gave it the name of Ram Head Point, from its
remarkable resemblance to the promontory of the same name at
the entrance of Plymouth Sound. The land appeared to be low
and level, the shore white and sandy, and the inland parts
covered with wood and verdure. At this time they saw three
water-spouts. -In the evening, at six o’clock, the northernmost
point of land, which they named Cape Howe, was distant about
two leagues. On the 27th they saw several of the inhabitants
walking along the shore, four of them carrying a cance on their
shoulders; but as they did not attempt to come off to the ship,
the captain took Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia in the
yawl to that part of the shore where they saw the natives, near
which four smail canoes lay close inland) The Indians sat on
the rocks till the yawl was within a quarter of a mile of the land,
when they ran away into the woods. The surf beating violently
on the beach, prevented the boat from landing. At five in the
evening they returned to the ship, and a light breeze springing up,
she sailed to the northward, where they discovered several people
on shore. The pinnace having been sent ahead to sound, ar-
rived near the spot where the Indians had stationed themselves,
on which one of them hid himself among the rocks near the
landing-place, and the others retreated up the hill. The pinnace
keeping along the shore, the Indians walked nearly in a line with
her; they were armed with long pikes, and a weapon resembling
a scimitar, and by various signs and words invited the boat's
crew to land. Those who did not follow the boat, having ob-




































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































COOK’S LANDING.



TWO NATIVES DISPUTE CAPTAIN

THE FIRST VOVAGE. 93

served the approach of the ship, brandished their weapons and
threw themselves into threatening attitudes.

The Endeavour anchored opposite a village of about eight
houses, whereupon Captain Cook manned the boats and took
Tupia with him, but had no sooner come near the shore, than
two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on land.
The captain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they
picked up with great delight. He then made signals that he
wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them
that no injury was intended. They now made signs to the boat’s
crew to land, but no sooner had Captain Cook done so, than the
two Indians came again to oppose them. A musket was now
fired between them, on the report of which one of them dropped
a bundle of lances, which he immediately snatched up again in
great haste. One of them threw a stone at the boat, on which
the captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired,
which, wounding the eldest of them in the legs, he retired hastily
to one of the houses that stood at some distance. The people
in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound this man had
received would put an end to the contest. In this, however, they
were mistaken, for he immediately returned with an oval-shaped
kind of shield, painted white in the middle, and with two holes in
it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and
both discharged their lances at the boat’s crew, but did not wound
any of them. Another musket was now fired at them, on which
they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. The crew
now went up to the huts, in one of which they found the children,
who had secreted themselves behind some bark. Having thrown
several pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other things into the

_ hut, they took several of their lances and then re-embarked in the
boat. They now sailed to the north point of the bay, and found
plenty of fresh water. Some men having been sent to get wood
and water, they no sooner came on board to dinner, than the
natives crowded down to the place, and examined the casks with
great attention, but did not offer to remove them. When the
people were on shore in the afternoon, about twenty of the natives,
all armed, advanced within a trifling distance of them, and then
stopped, while two of their number approached still nearer. Mr.






of COGS: VOVAGES.



Hicks, the commanding officer on shore, went towards them, with
presents in his hands, and endeavoured by every possible means to
assure them of his friendly intention, but to no purpose, for they
retired before he came up to them. In the evening, Messrs.
Banks and Solander went with the captain to a cove north of the
bay, where they caught between three and four hundredweight of
fish, at four hauls.

On Tuesday, May the rst, the south point of the bay was named
Sutherland Point, one of the seamen of the name of Sutherland, who
died that day, being buried on shore. More presents were left in
the huts, such as looking-glasses, combs, and other articles, but
the former ones had not been taken away. Making an excursion
about the country, they found it agreeably variegated with wood

and lawn, the trees being straight and tall, and without under-

wood. The second lieutenant, Mr. Gore, who was dredging for
oysters, saw some Indians, who made signs for him to come on
shore, which he declined; having finished his business, he sent
the boat away, and went by land with a midshipman to join the
party who were getting water. On their way they met with more
than twenty of the natives, who followed them so close as to come
within a few yards of them; Mr. Gore stopped and faced them,
on which the Indians stopped also, and when he proceeded again,
they followed him ; but they did not attack him, though each had
a lance. The Indians coming in sight of the water-casks, stood
at the distance of a quarter of a mile, while Mr. Gore and his
companions reached their shipmates in safety. Two or three of

‘the waterers now advanced towards the Indians, but observing

they did not retire, they here imprudently turned about, and re-
treated hastily. This apparent mark of cowardice emboldened
the savages, who discharged four of their lances at the fugitives,
which fell beyond them. They now stopped to pick up the
lances; on which the Indians retired in their turn. At this
instant the captain came up, with Messrs. Banks and Solander.

Tupia having learned to shoot, frequently strayed alone to shoot
parrots, and the Indians constantly fled from him with as much
precipitation as from the English. The name of Botany Ba Bay was
given to this place from the great number of plants collected by
Messrs. Banks and Solander. .
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 9

.e7 8

While the captain remained in the harbour, the English colours
were displayed on shore daily, and the name of the ship, with the
date of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where they
took in water. On Sunday, the 6th of May, they sailed from
Botany Bay, and at noon were off a harbour, which was called
Port Jackson, and in the evening near a bay to which they gave
the name of Broken Bay. The next day, at noon, the northern-
most land in sight projected so as to justify the calling it Cape
Three Points. As they proceeded northward from Botany Bay
the land appeared high and well covered with wood. In the
afternoon of the 13th they discovered some rocky islands, anda
day later, by the assistance of their glasses, discerned about a
score of Indians, each loaded with a bundle.

Early in the morning of the 23rd, Captain Cook, attended by
several gentlemen and Tupia, went on shore to examine the coun-
try. They landed within the point of a bay, which led into a
large lagoon, by the sides of which grew the true mangrove, where
they found many nests of ants_of a singular kind, as green _as
grass. When the branches were moved they came forth in great
numbers, and bit the disturber most severely. These trees like-
wise afforded shelter for immense numbers of green caterpillars,
whose bodies were covered with hairs.

On Thursday, the 24th, they made sail out of the bay, and on
the day following were abreast of a point, which, being immedi-
ately under the tropic, the captain named Cape Capricorn. On the
west side of the point they saw an amazing number of large birds,
resembling the pelican, some of which were near five feet high.

On Monday, the 28th, they sailed to the northward, and got
among another cluster of islands. Here they were greatly alarmed,
having on a sudden but three fathoms of water, in a rippling tide;
they immediately put the ship about, and hoisted out the boat in
search of deeper water ; after which they stood to the west under
easy sail, and in the evening came to the entrance of a bay. In
the afternoon, having sounded round the ship, and found that
there was water sufficient to carry her over the shoal, they weighed,
and stood to the westward, having sent a boat ahead to sound,
and at six in the evening anchored in ten fathoms, with a sandy
bottom, at about two miles from the mainland.
96 COOK’S VOYAGES.



On Tuesday, the 29th, Captain Cook, intending to lay the ship
ashore, and clean her bottom, landed with the master in search of
a convenient place for that purpose; in this excursion Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander accompanied them; several places were found
suitable for laying ashore, but, to their great disappointment, they

‘could meet with no fresh water. They proceeded, however, up
the country, and in the interior parts found gum trees, on the
branches of which were white ants’ nests, formed of clay, as big
as a bushel. On another tree, they saw black ants, which per-
forated all the twigs, and after eating out the pitch, formed their
lodgings in the hollows, notwithstanding which the trees were in
a flourishing condition. They also saw many thousands of butter-
tts, which covered every bough in incredible numbers.

On Wednesday, the 3oth, Captain Cook and other gentlemen
went on shore, and having gained the summit of a hill, took a
survey of the coast and the adjacent islands, which being done,
the captain proceeded with Dr. Solander up an inlet that had been
discovered the preceding day; but the weather proving unfavour-

‘ able, and from fear of being lost among the shoals in the night,
they returned to the ship, having seen during the whole day only
two Indians, who followed the boat a considerable way along the
shore. As no water was to be found in their different excursions,
the captain called the inlet where the ship lay Thirsty Sound.

On the ist_of June they got under weigh, and had now quite
opened the western inlet, which they distinguished by the name
of Broad Sound. A point of land which forms the north-west
entrance they named Cape Palmerston, lying 21° 30’ S. lat. and
210° 54’ W. long. Between this cape and Cape To is
the bay which they called the Bay of Inlets. At eight in the
evening they anchored in 11 fathoms, with a sandy bottom, about
two leagues from the mainland.

Saturday, the znd, they made sail, and at noon saw a high pro-
montory which they named Cape Hillsborough. It bore W. half
N., distant seven miles. The land appeared to abound in wood
and herbage, and is diversified with hills, plains, and valleys. A
chain of islands large and small are situated at a distance from
the coast and under the land, from some of which they saw smoke
ascending in different places.

THE FIRST VOVAGE. 97

On Sunday, the grd, they discovered a point of land, which
they called Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hills-
borough a bay, to which they gave the name of Repulse Bay.
By the help of their glasses, they discovered two men and a
woman on one of the islands, and a canoe with an outrigger like
those at Otaheite. They named the islands Cumberland Islands,
in honour of the Duke; and a passage which they had discovered
was called Whit-Sunday Passage, from the day on which it was seen.
At daybreak, on Monday, the 4th, they were abreast of a point
which they called Cape Gloucester. Names were also given this —
day to several other places, namely, Holbourne Isle, Edgcumbe.
Bay, and Cape Upstart, which last was so called because it rises .
abruptly from the low lands that surround it. Inland are some
hills or mountains which, like the cape, afford but a barren
prospect.

On Tuesday, the 5th,.they were about four leagues from land,
and continued to steer W.N.W. as the land lay, till noon on the
6th, when their latitude by observation being 19° 1’ S., they had
ae mouth of a bay all open, distant about two enone This
they named Cleveland Bay, and the east point Cape Cleveland,
now forming part of the colony of Queensland. The west, which
had the appearance of an island, was called Magnetical Island,
‘because the compass did not traverse well when they were near
it. They are both high, as is the mainland between them, the
whole forming a surface the most rugged, rocky, and barren of
any they had seen upon the coast. Yet it was not uninhabited,
for they saw smoke in several parts of the bottom of the bay.

Thursday, the 7th, at daybreak, they were abreast of the eastern
part of this land, and, in the afternoon, saw several columns of
smoke, also canoes, and some trees.

On Friday, the 8th, they stood away for the northernmost point
tween this and Magnetical Isle the shore forms Halifax Bay, bes
affords shelter from all winds. At six in the evening they were
abreast of a point of land which they named Cape Sandwich,
From hence the land trends west, and afterwards north, forming
a fine large bay, which was named Rockingham Bay. They now

ranged northward along the shore, towards a cluster of islands,
G
98 COOKS VOYAGES.

on one of which about ae or fifty men, women, and children
were standing together, all stark naked, and looking at the ship
with a curiosity never observed among these people before. At
noon their latitude, by observation, was 17° 59’ S., and they
were abreast of the north point of Rockingham Bay, which bore
from them west, distant about two miles. This boundary of the
bay is formed by an island of considerable height, which they dis-
tinguished by the name of Dunk Island.

On Saturday, the gth, in the morning, they were abreast of
some small islands, which were named Frankland’s Isles. At
noon they were in the middle of the channel. The point on the
main, of which they were now abreast, Captain Cook named
Cape Grofton. Having hauled round this, they found a bay three
miles to the westward, in which they anchored, and called the
island Green Island. Here Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went
ashore with the captain, with a view of procuring water, which
not being easily had, they soon returned on board, and the next
day arrived near Trinity Bay, so called because it was discovered
on Trinity Sunday.

Sunday, the roth, was remarkable for the dangerous situation of
the Endeavour.

As no remarkable accident had befallen our adventurers, during
a navigation of more than thirteen hundred miles, upon a coast
everywhere abounding with the most dangerous rocks and shoals,
no name expressive of distress had hitherto been given to any
cape or point of land which they had seen. But they now gave
the name of Cape Tribulation to a point they had just discovered,
because here they y became acquainted with misfortune. ‘The cape
lies in latitude 16° 6’ S. and 214° 39’ W. longitude.

On Sunday, the roth, at six in the evening, they shortened
sail, and hauled off shore close upon a wind, to avoid the danger
of some rocks which were seen ahead. They kept standing off
till near nine, with a fine breeze and bright moon, and had got
into twenty-one fathoms of water, when suddenly they fell into
twelve, ten, and eight fathoms, in a few minutes. Every man
was instantly ordered to his station, and they were on the point
of anchoring, when, on a sudden, they had again deep water, so
that they thought all danger was at an end, concluding they had






















































































































































































































































































































































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PORT JACKSON, BOTANY BAY.

THE FIRST VOYAGE. 101

sailed over the tail of some shoals, which they had seen in the
evening. In less than an hour, however, the water shallowed at
once from twenty to seventeen fathoms, and before soundings
could be taken, the ship struck upon a rock, and remained im-
movable. Everyone was instantly on deck, with countenances
fully expressive of the horrors of their situation. Knowing they
were not near the shore, they concluded they had struck upon a
rock of coral, the points of which are sharp, and the surface so
rough as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with
the most gentle motion ; all the sails being immediately taken in
and the boats hoisted out, they found that the ship had been
carried over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within it.
Finding the water deepest astern, they carried out the anchor
from the starboard quarter, and applied their whole force to the
capstan, in hopes of getting the vessel off, but in vain. She beat
so violently against the rock, that the crew could scarcely keep
their legs. By the bright light of the moon, they could see the
sheathing-boards float from the bottom of the vessel, till at length
the false keel followed, so that they expected instant destruction.
As their only chance of escape seemed to be lightening the ship,
they started the water in the hold, and pumped it up.

The decayed stores, oil-jars, casks, ballast, six of their guns,
and other articles were thrown overboard, in order to get at the
heavier stores; and in this business they were employed till day-
break, during all which time not an oath was sworn, so much
were the minds of the sailors impressed with a sense of their
danger.

At daylight they saw land eight leagues distant, but not a
single island between them and the main, on which part of the
crew might have landed, while the boats went on shore with the
‘rest ; so that the destruction of the greater part would have been
inevitable had the ship gone to pieces. It happened, however,
that the wind died away to a dead calm before noon. As they
expected high water about eleven o’clock, everything was prepared
to make another effort to free the ship, but the tide fell so short,
that she did not float by 18 inches, though they had thrown
overboard nearly fifty tons weight; they therefore continued
throwing overboard everything that could possibly be spared.
102 COOK’S VOYAGES.

As the tide fell, the water poured in so rapidly that they could
scarcely keep her free by the constant working of two pumps.
Their only hope now depended on the midnight tide, and pre-
parations were accordingly made for another effort to get the ship
off, The tide began to rise at five o’clock, when the leak like-
wise increased to such a degree, that two pumps more were
manned, but only one of them would work ; three, therefore,
were kept going till nine o’clock, at which time the ship righted ;
but so much water had been admitted by the leak, that they
expected she would sink as soon as the tide bore her off the rock.

Their situation was now deplorable beyond description, almost
all hope being lost. They knew that when the fatal moment
arrived, all authority would be at an end. The boats were in-
capable of conveying all on shore, and they dreaded a contest for
the preference as more shocking than the shipwreck itself. Yet
it was considered that those who were left on board would eventu-
ally meet with a milder fate than those who, by gaining the shore,
would have no chance but to linger out the remains of life among
the rudest savages in the universe, and in a country where fire-
arms would barely enable them to support a wretched existence.
At twenty minutes past ten the ship floated, when they were
happy to find that she did not admit more water than she had
done before. Yet, as the leak had for a considerable time gained
on the pumps, there was now 3 feet 9 inches of water in the hold.
By this time the men were so wearied by fatigue of body and
anxiety of mind, that none of them could pump more than five
or six minutes at a time, when they would throw themselves,
quite spent, on the deck. The succeeding man being fatigued in
his turn, threw himself down in the same manner, while the
former jumped up and renewed his labour, thus mutually
struggling for life, till the following accident almost gave them up
a prey to absolute despair.

Between the inside lining of the ship’s bottom and the outside
planking, there is a space of about seventeen or eighteen inches.
The man who had hitherto taken the depth of water at the well,
had taken it no farther than the ceiling, but being now relieved
by another, who took the depth of the outside planks, it appeared,
by this mistake, that the leak had suddenly gained upon the
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 103

pumps the whole difference between the two planks. This
circumstance deprived them of all hope, and few thought it
worth while to labour for the longer preservation of a life which
must soon be terminated. The mistake, however, was soon dis-
covered; and the joy arising from such unexpected good news
inspired the men with so much vigour, that before eight o’clock
in the morning they had pumped out considerably more water
than they had shipped. They now talked of nothing but getting
the ship into some harbour, and set heartily to work to secure
their anchors, one of which, and the cable of another, they had
lost. Having a good sea breeze, they set sail at eleven o’clock,
and steered for land. As they could not discover the exact
situation of the leak, they had no prospect of stopping it from
within the vessel, but the following expedient, which one of the
midshipmen had formerly seen tried with success, was adopted.
They took an old studding-sail, and having mixed a large
quantity of oakum and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down
in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as possible, the dung of their
sheep and other filth being spread over it. Thus prepared, the
sail was hauled under the ship by ropes, which kept it extended
till it came under the leak, when the suction carried in the
oakum and wool from the surface of the sail. This experiment
succeeded so well that, instead of three pumps, the water was
easily kept under with one.

They had hitherto intended to run the ship into some harbour,
and build a vessel from her materials, in which they might reach
the East Indies ; but they now began to think of finding a proper
place to repair her damages, and then to pursue the voyage on its
original plan. At six in the evening they anchored seven
leagues from the shore. Next morning they passed two small
islands which they called Hope Islands, because to reach them
had been the object of their wishes at the time of the disaster.
In the afternoon the master was sent out with two boats to
sound and search for a harbour where the ship might be repaired,
and they anchored at sunset, in four fathoms of water, two miles
from the shore. One of the mates being sent out in the pinnace,
returned at nine o’clock, reporting that he had found a suitable
harbour, two leagues distant.
104 COOK’S VOYAGES.



They sailed early on Wednesday, the_13th, and soon anchored
about a mile from the shore, when the captain took soundings in
a boat and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was
better adapted to their present purpose than any place they had
seen in the whole course of their voyage. As it blew very fresh
this day and the following night they could not venture to run
into the harbour, but remained at anchor during the two succeed-
ing days.

The men, by this time, began to be afflicted with scurvy, and
Tupia was so ill with it, that he had livid spots on both his legs ;
Mr. Green, the astronomer, also suffered from the same disorder.
The wind continuing fresh till the 17th, they resolved to push in
for the harbour, and twice ran the ship aground; the second
time she stuck fast, on which they took down the booms, fore-
yard, and foretop-mast, and made a raft on the side of the ship ;
and, as the tide happened to be rising she floated at one o’clock.
They soon got her into the harbour, where she was moored close
to the beach, and the anchors and cables immediately taken out
of her.

On Monday, the 18th, they erected a tent for the sick, who
were brought on shore as soon as it was ready for their reception.
They likewise set up another tent to hold the provisions and
stores, which were landed the same day. The boat was now
dispatched in search of fish for the sick, but she returned without
having procured any. ‘Tupia, however, employed himself in
angling, and living entirely upon what he caught, recovered his
health very fast. In an excursion Mr. Banks made up the
country, he saw the frames of several huts, and Captain Cook
having ascended one of the highest hills, observed the land to be
stony and barren, and the low land, near the river, overrun with
mangroves, among which the salt water flowed every tide.

Tuesday, the roth, the smith’s forge was set up, and the
armourer prepared the necessary iron-work for the repairs. On
the 22nd they warped the ship higher up the harbour in order to
stop the leak. Early in the morning, the tide having left her,
they proceeded to examine the leak, when it appeared that the
rocks had cut through four planks into the timbers, and that
three other planks were damaged. In these breaches not a
ao

THE FIRST VOYAGE. 105

splinter was to be seen, the whole being smooth, as if cut away
by an instrument; but most providentially the vessel was pre-
served by a very singular circumstance. Though one of the
holes was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps

\ constantly at work, yet it was partly stopped up by a fragment of
\the rock, which remained sticking in it. They likewise found

‘that some oakum, wool, etc., had got between the timbers and
stopped those parts of the leak that the stone had left open. Ex-
clusive of the leak, great damage was done to various parts of the
ship’s bottom.

While the smiths were employed in making nails and bolts, the
carpenters began to work on the vessel: and some of the people
were sent on the other side of the river to shoot pigeons for the
sick. They found a stream of fresh water, discovered many
Indian houses, and saw a mouse-coloured_animal, very swift, and
about the size of a greyhound. On the 2g3rd, a boat was dis-
patched to haul the seine, and returned at noon with only three
fish, although they saw plenty leaping about the harbour. This
day many of the crew saw the animal above mentioned, which
was afterwards discovered to be a huge black bat, about the size
of a partridge.

The repairs of the ship on the starboard side having been
finished, the carpenters now began to work under her port bow,
and on examination abaft, it appeared she had received very little
injury in that quarter. Mr. Banks having removed his whole
collection of plants into the bread-room, they were this day under
water, by which some of them were totally destroyed ; however,
by great care, most of them were restored to a state of preserva-
tion. A plant was found on the 25th, the leaves of which were
almost as good as spinach ; also a fruit of a deep purple colour, and

the size of a golden pippin, which, after having been kept a few

days, tasted like a damson.

the ship, and the men in other necessary ree 3 and on the
27th.the armourer continued to work at the forge and the car-
penter on the ship; while the captain made several hauls with
the large net, but caught only between twenty and thirty fish,
which were distributed among the sick and the convalescent.
106 COOK’S VOVAGES.

Here they saw a tree notched for climbing; also nests of white
ants, from a few inches to five feet in height, prints of men’s feet,
and the tracks of three or four animals were likewise discovered.
One of the midshipmen saw a wolf resembling exactly the
same species in America. =
On the_2gth of Jur June, ne, and again on the following day, they had
such a good haul of fish, that two pounds and a half were dis-

« xributed to each man, and plenty of greens were gathered, which,

when boiled with peas, made an excellent mess, and they all
thought this day’s fare an unspeakable refreshment.

On the ist_of July_all the crew had permission to go on shore,
except one from each mess, part of whom were again sent to
haul the seine, and were equally successful.

On the ard the master, who had been sent out in the pinnace,
returned and reported that he had found a passage out to sea,
between shoals consisting of coral rocks, many of which were dry
at low water. He found some cockles. so large that one of them
was more than sufficient for two men; likewise plenty of other
shell-fish, of which he brought a caop to the ship. This day
they made another attempt to float the Endeavour, and happily
succeeded at high water, when they found that, from the position
she had lain in, one of her planks was sprung, so that it was again
necessary io lay her ashore.

On the sth she was again floated, and moored off the beach
in order to receive the stores on board. This day they crossed
the harbour, and found on a sandy beach a great number of
fruits, not discovered before; among others, a cocoa-nut, which
‘Tupia said had been opened by a crab, and was judged to be what
the Dutch call Beurs Krabbe. Mr. Banks sailed up the river
with a party on the 6th, and returned on the 8th; they found its
course contracted into a narrow channel, bounded ie steep banks,
adorned with trees of a most beautiful appearance, among which
was the bark-tree. The land was low and covered with grass,
and seemed capable of being cultivated to great advantage. While
in pursuit of game, they saw four animals, two of which were
chased by Mr. Banks’ greyhound, but they greatly outstripped
him in speed, by leaping over the long thick grass, which incom-
moded the dog in running; it was observed that these animals
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 107





bounded forward on two legs instead of running on four. On
their return to the boat, they proceeded up the river till it con-
tracted to a brook of fresh water, in which the tide rose consider-
ably. When preparing to halt for the night they saw smoke at a
distance, on which three of them approached the spot, but the
Indians were gone. They saw the impression of feet on the sand,
below high-water mark, and found a fire still burning in the hollow
of an old tree. -At a small distance were several huts, and they
observed ovens dug in the ground, and also the remains of a
recent meal. They slept that night on plantain leaves, with a
bunch of grass for their pillows, and the tide favouring their
return in the morning, lost no time in getting back to the ship.
The master, who had been seven leagues at sea, returned soon
after Mr. Banks, bringing with him three turtles, which he took
with a boat-hook, and which together weighed nearly 800 pounds,

In the morning four Indians, in a small canoe, were within
sight. The captain now determined to take no notice of these
people, as the most likely way to be noticed by them. This pro-
ject answered; two of them came within musket-shot of the
vessel, and after some conversation carried on at a distance, the
Indians gradually approached, with their lances held up, not ina
menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate that they were
capable of defending themselves. They came almost alongside,
when the captain threw them cloth, nails, paper, etc., which did
not seem to attract their notice ; at length one of the sailors threw
a small fish, which so pleased them that they hinted their design
of bringing their companions, and immediately rowed for the shore.
In the interim, Tupia and some of the crew landed on the op-
posite shore. The Indians soon came alongside the ship, and
having received presents, landed where Tupia and a few sailors
went on shore. They had each two lances, and a stick with
which they threw them. Advancing towards the English, Tupia
, persuaded them to lay down their arms, and sit by him, which
they readily did. Others of the crew now going on shore, the
Indians seemed jealous, lest they should get between them and
their arms, but care was taken to convince them that no such
thing was intended, and more trifles were presented to them.
The crew stayed with them till dinner time, and then made signs.
108 COOK’S VOYAGES.



of invitation for them to go to the ship and eat; but this they de-
clined, and retired in their canoe.

These men were of common stature, with very small limbs.
Their complexion was of a deep chocolate colour, their hair black,
either lanked or curled, but not of the woolly kind; and some
part of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth were
white and even, their eyes bright and their features pleasing ;
their voices were musical, and they repeated several English words
with great readiness.

The next morning the visit of three of these Indians was re-
newed, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called
Yaparico, who appeared to be a person of some consequence.
The bone of a bird, about six inches long, was thrust through the
gristle of his nose ; and, indeed, all the inhabitants of this place
had their noses bored, for the reception of such ornaments.
These people being quite naked, the captain gave one of them
an old shirt, which he bound round his head like a turban, instead
of using it to cover any part of his body. They brought a fish
to the ship, which was supposed to be in payment for that given
them the day before ; after staying some time with apparent satis-
faction, they suddenly leaped into their canoes and rowed off,
from a jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining
it.



On the 12th of July three Indians visited Tupia’s tent, and
after remaining some time, went for two others, whom they intro-
duced by name. Some fish were offered them, but after eating a
little, they gave the remainder to Mr. Banks’ dog. Both the
strangers had bones through their noses, and a piece of bark tied
over their foreheads; and one of them had an ornament of
strings round his arm, and an elegant necklace made of shells.
Their canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four
persons, and when it was in shallow water, they moved it by the
help of poles. Their lances had only a single point, and some of
them were barbed with fish bones.

On the r4th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured animals
above mentioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing more
than thirty-eight pounds, but when they are full grown, they are
as large as a sheep. The skin of this beast, which is called kan-
THE FIRST VOYAGE, 109



garoo, is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse colour;
the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare. This animal
was dressed for dinner, and proved excellent eating. The ship’s
crew fed on turtle almost every day, which were finer and better
than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before
their natural fat was wasted and their juices changed.

On the 17th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went with the captain
into the woods, and saw four Indians in a canoe, who went on
shore, and walked up without sign of fear. They accepted some
beads and departed, intimating that they did not choose to be
followed. The natives having now become familiar with the ship’s
crew, one of them was desired to throw his lance, which he did
with such force and dexterity, that though it was not above four
feet from the ground, at the highest, it penetrated deeply into a
tree at a distance of fifty yards. The natives now came on board
the ship, and seemed well pleased with their entertainment. The
women as well as the men were quite naked.

On the roth they were visited by ten Indians who seemed re-
solved to have one of the turtles that was on board, which they
repeatedly made signs for, and expressed the utmost rage and
resentment on its being refused them ; one of them in particular,
having received a denial from Mr. Banks, stamped and pushed
him away in a most violent manner. At length they laid hands
on two of the turtles, and dragged them to the side of the ship
where the canoe lay, but the sailors took them away. They
made several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful,
leaped suddenly into their canoe, and rowed off. At this instant
the captain, with Mr. Banks and five or six of the seamen, went
on shore, where many of the crew were already employed. On
the arrival of the Indians soon after, one of them snatched a fire-

‘brand from under a pitch kettle, and running to windward of

what articles were left on shore, set fire to the dry grass, which
burned rapidly, scorched a pig to death, burned part of the smith’s
forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Banks, but that
some people came from the ship just in time to get it out of the
way of the flames. In the meanwhile, the Indians went to a
place where the fishing-nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid
out to dry, and there again set fire to the grass in spite of all per-
ILO COOK’S VOYAGES.



suasion and even threats. A musket loaded with small shot was
fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away ; this second
fire was extinguished, but the other burned far into the woods.

The Indians sti!l continuing in sight, a musket charged with
ball was fired at them, the report of which sent them out of sight ;
but their voices being heard in the woods, the captain, with a few
people, went to meet them. Both parties stopped when in sight
of each other; an old Indian then advanced before the rest a
little way, but soon halted, and having spoken some words which
the English could not understand, he retreated to his companions,
and they all retired slowly in a body. Having seized some of
their darts, the ship’s crew continued to follow them about a mile,
and then sat down upon the rocks, the Indians sitting also, about
a hundred yards from them. The old man again came forward,
having a lance without a point in his hand; he stopped. several
times at different distances and spoke, whereupon the captain
made signs of friendship, which they answered. The old man
now turned and spoke to his companions, who placed their lances
against a tree, and advanced in a friendly manner. The darts
were then returned to them, and this rendered the reconciliation
complete. Having received some trinkets, the Indians walked
amicably toward the coast, intimating by signs that they would
not fire the grass again. When they came opposite the ship they
sat down, but could not be prevailed upon to go on board.
They accepted a few musket-balls, the use and effects of which
the captain endeavoured to explain. When the party arrived at
the ship, they saw the woods burning at the distance of two
miles.

On Friday, the 2oth, the ship being ready for sea, the master
was sent in search of a passage to the northward, but could not
find any ; while the captain sounded and buoyed the bar. ‘On
the 22nd they killed a turtle, through the shoulders of which stuck
a harpoon, nearly fifteen inches long, bearded at the end, and
about the thickness of a man’s finger, resembling such as they
had seen among the natives. The turtle appeared to have been
struck a considerable time, as the wound was perfectly healed.
On the 24th, one of the sailors having strayed from his company,
fell in with four Indians at dimmer. He was at first much alarmed,
















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































NATIVE ATIACK ; SAVING THE TENT FURNITURE,



~ Lee ole

THE FIRST VOYAGE, 113



but had the prudence to conceal his apprehensions ; and sitting
down beside them gave them his knife, which having examined
they returned. He would then have taken his leave, but they
seemed disposed to detain him, till, by feeling his hands and face,
they were convinced that he was made of flesh and blood like
themselves. They treated him with great civility, and having
kept him about half an hour, showed him the nearest way to the

ship. Qu we

On Saturday, the 4th of August, at seven o’clock in the morn-
ing, they once more got under weigh and put to sea. They stood
E. by N., with the pinnace ahead to keep sounding. About noon
they came to an anchor, and the captain named the northernmost

ree of land in sight Cape Bedford, and the harbour they had
quitted Endeayour_ River, it being only a small bar harbour, or
creek, which runs in a winding channel three or four leagues in-
land. The provisions they procured in this harbour consisted of
turtle, oysters of different sorts, flat fish, skate or ray fish, wild
beans, and cabbage-palms. Of quadrupeds, there are goats,
wolves, polecats, and several sorts of serpents, some of which are
venomous. Dogs are the only tame animals. The feathered
tribe are represented by kites, crows, hawks, cockatoos, parrots,
pigeons, and small birds of various sorts; the water fowls are
wild geese, curlew, whistling ducks, and some few others. The
soil of the hills, though stony, produces coarse grass, beside wood ;
that of the valleys is in general well clothed, and has the appear-
ance of fertility. The trees are of various sorts, of which the
gum-trees are the most common. On each side of the river are
mangroves, which in some parts extend a mile within the coast ;
the country is well watered, and ant hills are everywhere abun-
dant.

On Saturday, the 4th, Captain Cook went up to the mast-head
to look at some dangerous shoals, several of which he saw above
the water. During the six following days they attempted to sail
between the shoals and breakers, by which they were surrounded.
On the zoth they were between a headland and three islands,
which had been discovered the preceding day. They now enter-
tained hopes of being out of danger, but this not proving to be

the case, they called the headland Cape Flattery.. Some land
H



/
AeA

Oe
ila COOR’S VOYAGES.

was now discovered and was generally taken for the main, though
the captain thought it was a cluster of islands. Owing to this
diversity of opinion, it was resolved to bring the ship to an
anchor. This done, the captain landed, and from a high point
took a survey of the sea coast, by which he was confirmed in his
conjecture. On the point where he stood were seen the prints of
human feet, in white sand of an exquisite fineness ; and the place*
was named Point Look-out. To the northward of this, the coast
appeared to be shoal and flat for a considerable distance.

On Saturday, the 11th, early in the morning, Mr. Banks and
Captain Cook went to visit the largest of the three islands, and
having gained the summit of the highest hill, beheld a reef of
rocks, on which the sea broke heavily, but the hazy weather pre-
vented a perfect view ; they lodged under a bush during the night,
and next day seeing what had the appearance of a channel be-
tween the reefs, one of the mates was sent out in the pinnace to
examine it. He returned at noon, having found between 15 and
28 fathoms of water; but it blew so hard that the mate did not
think it prudent to venture into one of the channels, which he
said appeared to be very narrow. While busy in this survey, Mr.
Banks was attentive to his favourite pursuit, and collected many
plants he had not before seen. This island, visible at twelve
leagues’ distance, and in general barren, they found to be about
eight leagues in circumference. There are some sandy bays and

_low land on the north-west side, which is covered with long grass
and trees of the same kind with those on the. main; lizards of a
very large size also abounded, some of which they took. They
found also fresh water in two places ; one running stream close to
the sea was rather brackish, the other was a standing pool, per-
fectly sweet. They were surprised to see, from the remains of
some huts which they found, that notwithstanding the great dis-
tance of this island from the mainland, it was sometimes visited
by the Indians. On their return to the ship, the captain named
this place Lizard Island, on account of their having seen no other
animals but lizards. When returning, they landed on a low sandy
island, upon which were birds of various kinds. They took a
nest of young eagles, and therefore called the place Eagle Island.
‘They found also the nest of some other birds of a most enormous
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 115



size ; it was made of sticks, upon the ground, and was not less
than 26 feet in circumference, and 2 feet_8 inches_high. They
perceived that this place had also been visited by the Indians.
During their absence from the ship, the master had landed on
several low islands, where he had seen great heaps of turtle shells,
and found their fins, which the Indians had left hanging on the

*trees, so fresh, that they were dressed and eaten by the boat’s
crew.

On Sunday, the 12th, the officers being unanimously of opinion
that it would be advisable to leave the coast altogether, the
Endeavour sailed on the following day, and got through one of
the channels in the reef, happy at finding themselves once more
in the open sea, having been surrounded by shoals and rocks for
three months. “They had now sailed above 1,000 miles, with-
out,” says Captain Cook, “ever having aman out of the chains
heaving the lead, when the ship was under sail.” The passage
through which they passed into the open sea beyond the reef, is
in latitude 14° 32’ S., and_may always be known by the three
high islands within it, which Captain Cook called the Islands of _
Direction, because by ‘these a stranger may find a safe channel ~
through the reef.to the mainland.

On the r5th they steered a westerly course, in order to get
sight of land, that they might not pass the passage between this
country and New Guinea, if there were one. Early in the after-
noon they sighted land, which had the appearance of hilly islands,
and saw breakers between the vessel and the land, in which there
was an opening ; to get clear they set all sail, and stood to the
northward till midnight, and then went on a southerly tack for
about two miles, when the breeze died away to a dead calm. At
daylight they saw a fearful surf breaking at a vast height, within
a mile of the ship, towards which the rolling waves carried her
with great rapidity. The boats were sent ahead to tow, and the
head of the vessel was brought round, but not till she was within
a hundred yards of the rock, over which the surf broke in great
billows. Just as they were in expectation of instant destruction,
a breeze, hardly discernible, aided the boats in getting the vessel
clear of the rock. The hopes, however, afforded by this provi-
dential circumstance, were destroyed by a perfect calm, which


116 COOK’S VOYAGES.



succeeded in a few minutes. Yet the breeze once more returned,
before they had lost the little ground which had been gained.
At this time a small opening was seen in the reef, and a young
officer being sent to examine it, found that its breadth did not
much exceed the length of the ship, but that there was smooth
water on the other side of the rocks. They now attempted to
pass the opening, but this was impossible, for. it having become
high water in. the interim, the ebb tide rushed through it with
amazing impetuosity, carrying the ship about a quarter of a mile
from the reef, which soon increased to nearly two miles, by the
help of the boats. When the ebb tide was spent, the flood again
drove the vessel very near the rocks, so that the prospect of
destruction was renewed; but they discovered another opening,
and a light breeze springing up, were driven through it with a
rapidity that prevented the ship from striking against either side
of the channel. She now came to an anchor, and the crew were
grateful for having regained a station which they had been lately
most anxious to quit. The name of Providence Channe] was
given to the opening, through which the ship had thus escaped
the most imminent dangers. A high promontory on the main-
land in sight was denominated Cape Weymouth, and a bay near
it Weymouth Bay. This day the boats went out fishing, and
met with success, particularly in catching cockles, some of which
were of such an amazing size as to require two men to move them.
Mr. Banks likewise succeeded in his search for rare shells and
different kinds of coral.

On the 18th they discovered several small islands, which were
called Forbes Islands, and sighted a high point of land on the
main, which was named the Bolt Head. On the 1gth they dis-
covered several other small islands, which were low, barren, and
sandy. A point was seen and called Cape Grenville, and a bay
to which was given the name of Temple Bay. In the afternoon
many other islands were seen, which were denominated Bird Isles,
from their being frequented by numerous flocks of birds. On
the 29th they sighted many more small islands, in one of which
were a few trees and several Indian huts. On the arst they sailed
through a channel, in which was a number of shoals, and they
gave the name of York Cape to a point of the mainland which
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 117

forms the side of the channel. A large bay is formed to the south
of the cape, which was called Newcastle Bay, and in which are
several little islands; on the north side of the cape the land is
rather mountainous, but the low parts of the country abound with
trees. The islands discovered in the morning of this day were
called York Isles. Afterwards they anchored between some islands,
and observed that the channel began to grow wider; they also
perceived two distant points between which no land could be
seen, so that the hope of having at length explored a passage
into the Indian Sea began to animate every breast; but, to bring
the matter to a certainty, the captain, accompanied by Messrs.
Solander and Banks, landed with a party on an island on which
they had seen a number of Indians. ‘Three of these Indians stood
on shore as if to oppose.the landing of the boat ; but they retired
before it reached the beach. The captain and his company now
ascended a hill, from whence they had a view of nearly forty miles,
in which space there was nothing that threatened to oppose their
passage, so that the certainty of a channel seemed to be almost
indubitable. Previous to their leaving the island, Captain Cook
displayed the English colours, and in the name of King George
took posséssion of all the eastern coast of the country, from the
38th deg. of S. latitude to the present spot, by the name of New
South Wales; and three volleys of small arms being fired, and
answered by an equal number from the Hndeavour, the place re-
ceived the name of Possession Island. Weighing anchor they
gave the name of Cape Cornwall to the extreme point of the largest
island on the north-west side of the passage, and some low islands
near the middle of the channel received the name of Wallis’ Isles ;
soon after which the ship came to an anchor, and the long-boat was
sent out to sound. ‘Towards evening they sailed again, and the
captain landed with Mr. Banks on a small island which was fre-
quented by immense numbers of birds, the majority of which
being boobies, the place received the name of Booby Island.
They were now advanced to the northern extremity of New Holland,
and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the westward.
The N.E. entrance to the passage is formed by the mainland of
New Holland, and by a number of islands, which took the name of
the Prince of Wales’ Islands, and which Captain Cook imagined
118 COOK’*S VOYAGES,



may reach to New Guinea. This passage he called Endeavour
Straits.

None of the villages in New South Wales consisted of more
huts than would afford shelter for fourteen or fifteen men, and
these were the largest numbers that were assembled at one spot
exclusive of women. ‘The men are well made, of the middle
size, and active in a high degree, but their voices are soft, even
to effeminacy. Their colour is chocolate; but they were so
covered with dirt as to look almost as black as negroes. Their
hair is naturally long and black, but they generally cropped it
short; in some few instances it was slightly curled, and was
always matted with dirt; their beards are thick and bushy, but
kept short by singeing. The women were seen only at a distance,
as the men constantly left them behind when they crossed the
river. The chief ornament of these people is the bone that is
thrust through the nose, which the sailors whimsically called the
“ spritsail-yard ;” but besides this they wore necklaces formed of
shells, a small cord tied twice or thrice round the arm, between
the elbow and the shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair
round the waist. Some few of them had an ornament of shells
hanging across the breast.' Besides these ornaments, they painted
their bodies white and red, in stripes of different dimensions, and
they had a circle of white round each eye, and spots of it on the
face. Their ears were bored, but they did not wear earrings.
They accepted whatever was given them, but seemed to have no
idea of making an adequate return; and they would not part with
their ornaments for anything that was offered in exchange. Their
bodies were marked with scars, which they signified were in re-
membrance of the deceased. Their huts were built with small
rods, the two ends of which were fixed in the ground, so as to
form the figure of an oven; and the rods were covered with
pieces of bark and palm-leaves. The door of this building, which
was only high enough to sit upright in, was opposite the fireplace.
They sleep with their heels turned up towards their heads, and
even in this posture the hut will not hold more than four people.
In the northern parts, where the weather is warmer, the lee side
of the houses was left open. As these huts were only built for

_temporary use, they were left behind, when their inmates removed


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 119



to other parts of the country. The huts were furnished with a
kind of bucket for filtering water, made of an oblong piece of
bark tied up at each end with a twig of a tree; and this was the
only furniture. On their backs they have a kind of bag of the
size and form of a cabbage-net, in which they carry their fish-
hooks and lines, and the shells of which they make these hooks ;
also their ornaments, consisting of some points of darts, and two
or three bits of paint, which constitute all their riches. They feed
on the kangaroo and several kinds of birds; also yams, and
various kinds of fruit, but the principal article of their subsistence

is fish, They were frequently observed chewing the leaves of a |
tree. Their method of producing fire, and extending the flames, |

is very singular. Having wrought one end of a stick to an obtuse
point, they place this point upon a piece of dry wood, and turn-

‘ing the upright stick very fast backward and forward between

their hands, fire is soon produced, nor is it increased with less

celerity. One of the natives was frequently observed to run along °

the sea coast, leaving fire in different places. The method taken
to do this was as follows: before he set off he wrapped up a little
spark of fire in dry grass, and the quickness of his motion soon
fanning it into a flame, he then placed it on the ground, and
putting a spark of it in another bit of grass, ran on again, and in-
creased the number of fires at pleasure. These fires were sup-
posed to be intended for the taking of the kangaroo, as that
animal was so very shy of fire, that when pursued by the dogs, it
would not pass places which had been newly burnt, even when
the fire was extinguished.

The natives of New South Wales make use of spears or lances,
but these are very differently constructed; those that were seen
in the southern parts of the country had four prongs, pointed with
bone, and barbed, and the points were rubbed with a kind of wax,
the smoothness of which made an easier passage into what was
struck by them. The lances in the northern parts have only one
point; the shafts, which are from 8 to 14 ft. in length, are made
of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consists of several

_ joints let into each other, and tied together. The points of these

lances are sometimes made of fish-bones, and sometimes of hard
heavy wood. ‘They are barbed with other pieces of wood or stone,
120 COOK’S VOYAGES.



so that when they have entered any depth into the body, they
cannot be drawn out without tearing the flesh in a shocking
manner, or leaving splinters behind them. When the natives
intend to wound at a considerable distance, they discharge this
| instrument with a throwing-stick ; but if the object be near them,
| it is thrown from the hand only. The throwing-stick is a piece
| of smooth, hard red wood, half an inch thick, two inches broad,
and about three feet in length, having a cross-piece near four inches
long at one end, and a small knob at the other. A small hollow
is made in the shaft of the lance, near the point, and in this
hollow the knob is received, but on being forced forward it will
easily slip from it. The lance being placed on this throwing-stick,
the Indian holds it over his shoulder, shakes it, and then throws
both lance and stick with his utmost power; but as the cross-
piece strikes the shoulder, the sudden jerk stops the stick, while
the lance is driven forward with amazing rapidity, and is generally
so well aimed, that a mark at the distance of fifty yards is more
surely struck with it than by a bullet from a gun.

These people make use of shields made of the bark of trees,
of about 18 inches broad, and three feet long. Many trees were
seen from whence the bark had been taken, and others on which
the shields were cut out, but not taken away. In the northern
parts of this country the canoes are formed by hollowing the trunk
of a treé, and it was conjectured that this operation must have
been performed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have any
instrument proper for the purpose. The canoes are about 14 feet
in length, and so narrow that they would be frequently upset, but
that they are provided with an out-rigger. The natives row them
with paddles, using both hands. The canoes in the southern
parts are formed of a piece of bark four yards long, fastened to-
gether at each end, and kept open bya piece of wood passing
from side to side. In deep water, these canoes, which are con-
structed to hold only four people, are rowed by paddles of about
a foot and a half in length, the rower having one in each hand ;
but in shallow water they are pushed forward by means of a long
stick. The natives have for tools only a wooden mallet, a kind
of wedge, and an adze made of stone, with some pieces of coral
and shells, which may possibly be applied to the purposes of














































































































































































































































































AWCAS, Ly be



ATIVE OF AUSTRALIA,




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THE FIRST VOYAGE. 123



cutting.. They polish the points of thee lances and thei teens
sticks with the leaves of a tree which are like the wild fig, and
bite with a sharpness almost equal to that of a rasp.

On Friday, the 24th of August, 1770, the Hndeavour got under le

sail, steering north-west, and in a few hours one of the boats ahead
made the signal for shoal water. They instantly brought the ship
to, with all her sails standing, and a survey being taken of the sea
around her, it was found that she was almost encompassed with
shoals, and must have struck if she had been half a cable’s length
on either side. In the afternoon they made sail with the ebb tide,
and got out of danger before sunset.

On the_27th they pursued their voyage, shortening sail at night,

and tacking till daybreak of the 28th, when they steered due north,

in search of New Guinea. Land ‘having been sighted this day
from the mast-head, they stood off and on all night, and at day-
break sailed towards it with a brisk gale.

On Thursday, the oth, they held a northerly course, the land
being just visible. Captain Cook now determined to land in one

of the boats, while the ship kept flying off and on. On the 3rd_

of September, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, he
set off from the ship in the pinnace, the party consisting in all of
twelve persons, well armed. ‘They rowed directly to the shore,
but on arriving within 200 yards of it found the water so shallow
that they were obliged to leave the boat in the care of two of the
sailors, and wade to land. They saw several prints of human feet
on the sand, below high-water mark, from whence it was evident
that the natives had been there. Having now advanced about a
quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed from the
wood with a hideous shout, and as they ran towards the English
the foremost threw something out of his hand, which flew on one
side of him, and burnt like gunpowder, but made no report; the
other two threw their lances. The crew then discharged their
pieces, loaded with small shot only, upon which the Indians cast
a third dart. The crew now loaded with ball, and fired a second
time, and it is probable some of them were wounded, as they all
took to their heels with great agility. Captain Cook now returned
to the boat, and on the way perceived signals on board that more
natives were coming in a body; soon after he perceived several

AA Wer

if !

th
124 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Indians coming round a point, five hundred yards distant. When
they saw the crew they halted, until the crew entered the water
and waded to the boat. i

nearly of the same stature, with their hair cropped short. Their
lances were made of a reed or bamboo cane, the points of which
were of hard wood, and barbed in many places. They were light
and about four feet in length. Such was the force with which
they were discharged, that they went beyond the English, though
propelled there was no means of determining. This day, Monday,_
Sept. 3rd, Captain Cook made sail to the westward, being resolved
to spend no more time upon this coast. :

On Saturday, the 8th, they passed two small islands, and about
noon on the following day sighted more land, which was con-
jectured to be either the Arrou Islands, or, Timor I
Wednesday they saw a number of fires and smoke in several
places, whence it was conjectured that the place was well peopled.
The land near the shore was covered with high trees not unlike
pines; further back were cocoa-trees and mangroves.

On the morning of the 17th, as the ship was clear of all the
islands which had been laid down in such maps as were on board,
they were surprised at sighting an island to the W.S.W., which
they supposed was a new discovery. Before noon they saw houses,
groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of sheep, a most welcome
sight to people whose health was declining for want of fresh
provisions. The second lieutenant was immediately despatched
in the pinnace in search of a landing-place, and he took with him
such things as it was thought might be acceptable to the natives
in effecting purchases. During Mr. Gore’s absence, the people
on board saw two men on horseback, up on the hills, who fre-
quently stopped to take a view of the vessel. The lieutenant soon
returned with an account that he had entered a little cove, near
which stood a few houses ; that several men advanced and invited
him to land; and that they conversed together as well as they
could by signs. He reported that these people were very like the
Malays in person and dress, and that they had no other arms but
a knife, which each of them wore in his girdle.
So ,

THE FIRST VOYAGE. 125



The lieutenant not being able to find any place in which the
ship might come to an anchor, he was dispatched, with money
and goods, to buy such necessaries as were immediately wanted
for the sick. Dr. Solander accompanied the lieutenant, and dur-
ing their absence the ship stood on and off the shore. Soon after
the boat had left, two other horsemen were seen from the ship,
one of whom had a laced hat on, and was dressed in a European
coat and waistcoat... These men rode about on shore, taking little
notice of the boat, but regarding the ship with the utmost atten-
tion. As soon as the boat reached the shore, some other persons
on horseback, and many on foot, hastened to the spot, and it was.
observed that some cocoa-nuts were put into the boat, from whence
it was concluded that traffic had commenced with the natives. A
signal being made from the boat that the ship might anchor in a
bay at some distance, she immediately bore away for it. When
the lieutenant returned, he reported that he could not purchase
any cocoa-nuts, as the owner of them was absent, and that what
he had brought were given to him, in return for which he had
presented the natives with some linen. The method by which he
learned that there was a harbour in the neighbourhood, was by
the natives drawing a kind of rude map on the sand in which the
harbour, and a town near it, were represented. It was likewise
hinted to him that fruit, fowls, hogs, and sheep might be had in
great abundance. He saw several of the principal inhabitants of
the island, who had chains of gold about their necks, and wore
fine linen. The word “ Portuguese ” being frequently repeated by
the Indians, it was conjectured that some natives of Portugal were.
in the island,.and one of the boat’s crew being of that kingdom,
he spoke to the islanders in his own language, but soon found that

_they had only learned a few words, of which they did not know

the meaning.

When the ship entered the bay, an Indian town was seen at a
distance ; upon which a jack was hoisted on the foretop-mast-head.
Soon afterwards three guns were fired and Dutch colours hoisted
in the town; the ship, however, held on her way and came to an

* anchor at seven in the evening. The captain, concluding that

the Dutch had a settlement on the island, dispatched his second
lieutenant to acquaint the governor, or other principal resident,
126 COOK’S VOYAGES.



who they were, and that the ship had put in for necessary pro-
visions. ‘The lieutenant having landed, was received by a guard
of about twenty Indians, armed with muskets, who proceeded
without the least military order, and escorted him to the town,
where the colours had been hoisted the preceding evening. The
lieutenant was now conducted to the rajah, or king of the island,
to whom, by means of a Portuguese interpreter, he made known
his business. The rajah replied that he was ready to supply the
ship with the necessary refreshments, but that he could not trade
with any other people than the Dutch, with whom he was in
alliance, without having first obtained their consent. He added,
however, that he would make application to the Dutch agent, who
was the only white man among them. To this agent, whose name
was Lange, and who proved to be the person that was seen from
the ship in the European dress, a letter was despatched, and in
a few hours he came to the town, behaved politely to the lieutenant,
and told him he might buy what he thought proper of the inhabi-
tants of the island. This offer being freely made, and readily
accepted, the rajah and Mr. Lange intimated their wishes to go
on board the ship, and that two of the boat’s crew might be left
as hostages for their safe return. The lieutenant gratified them
in both these requests, and took them on board just before dinner
was served. As Dr. Solander and another gentleman on board
were tolerably proficient in Dutch, they acted as interpreters be-
tween Mr. Lange and the officers; while some of the sailors, who
understood Portuguese, conversed with such of the rajah’s attendants
as spoke that language. The dinner consisted chiefly of mutton,
which so pleased the rajah that he requested of them an English
sheep, and the only one they had left was presented to him.
\\ Their compliance in this particular encouraged the rajah to ask
\ for an English dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave up his grey-
\hound. A spy-glass was also presented to him, Mr. Lange having
\intimated that such a present would be very acceptable.
| ‘Their visitors now informed them that the island abounded
with buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which should be
driven down to the shore the next day. This put them all in
such high spirits that the liquor circulated rather faster than either
the Indians or the Saxons could bear; but they had, however,
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 127



the resolution to express a desire to depart before they were quite
intoxicated. They were dismissed with many presents, and on
their departure were saluted with nine guns. Mr. Banks and Dr.
Solander accompanied them, and when they put off returned their
compliments with three cheers. These gentlemen, on their ar-
rival at the town, tasted their palm-wine, which was the fresh
juice of the trees, unfermented. It had a sweet but not dis-
agreeable taste, and hopes were entertained that it might
contribute to recover the sick from the scurvy. The houses of
the natives consisted of only a thatched roof, supported over a
boarded floor by pillars about 4 feet high.

On the morning of Wednesday, the 19th,.Captain Cook, at-
tended by several gentlemen, went on shore to return the rajah’s
visit ; but their principal intention was to purchase the cattle and
fowls which they had been assured, the preceding day, should be
driven down to the beach. They were greatly chagrined at find-
ing no steps had been taken to fulfil this promise ; however, they
proceeded to the house of assembly, which, with a few other
houses, built by the Dutch East India Company, are distinguished
from the rest, by having two pieces of wood, resembling a pair of
cow’s horns, fixed on each end of the roof. At the house of
assembly they saw Mr. Lange and the rajah, surrounded by many
of the principal people. Captain Cook having informed them
that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wished to ex-
change for necessary refreshments, permission was given him to
land them. They now endeavoured to make an agreement for
the hogs, sheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cash;
but this business was no sooner hinted than Mr. Lange took his
leave, having first told the captain that he had received a letter
from the governor of Concordia, in Timor, the contents of which
' should be disclosed at his return. As the morning was now far
advanced, and they had no fresh provisions on board, they re-
quested the rajah’s permission to buy a small hog, and some rice,
and to order his people to dress the dinner. He very obligingly
replied that if they could eat victuals dressed by his subjects,
which he could scarcely suppose, he would do himself the honour
of entertaining them. A dinner being thus procured, the captain
sent off the boat to bring liquor from the ship. It was ready
128 COOK’S VOYAGES.

about five o’clock, and after they were seated on mats, which
were spread on the floor, it was served in six-and-thirty baskets.
When dinner was ended, of which the rajah declined to partake,
pleading the custom of his country, the captain invited him to
drink wine with them, but he excused himself, saying, the man
who entertained his guests should never get drunk with them.
The prime minister and Mr. Lange were of the party, and the
English made a luxurious meal. The pork and rice were excellent,
and the broth not to be despised; but the spoons made of leaves
were so small, that few had patience to use them. When the
wine had circulated some time, they took an opportunity to in-
quire after the buffaloes and sheep, of which they had not yet
heard a syllable, though they were to have been at the beach early
in the morning. Mr. Lange informed the captain that, in a letter
which he pretended to have received from the governor of Con-
cordia, instructions were given that if the ship should touch at this
island, and be in want of provisions, she should be supplied, but
he was not to permit her to remain longer than was necessary ;
nor were any large presents to be made to the natives of low rank,
but that any trifling civilities received from the Indians might be
acknowledged by a present of beads, or other articles of very
small value. It is probable that the whole of this story was a fiction,
and that by precluding our liberality to the natives, the Dutch-
man hoped more easily to fill his own pockets. In the evening
they were informed that a few sheep had been brought to the
beach, which had been driven away before the captain could pro-
cure money from the ship to pay for them. Some fowls, however,
were bought, and a large quantity of syrup, made of the juice of
the palm-tree. This, though infinitely superior to molasses or
treacle, sold at a very low price. Vexed at being thus disap-
pointed, they remonstrated with Mr. Lange, who said, had they
gone down to the beach themselves, they might have purchased
what they pleased ; but that the natives were afraid of being im-
posed upon by the seamen with counterfeit money. Although
this story was not credited, Captain Cook repaired to the beach,
but no cattle were to be seen, nor were any at hand to be bought.
During his absence, Lange told Mr. Banks that the Indians were
offended that gold had not been offered, without which nothing
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 129



could be bought, but Mr. Banks declined holding further con-
versation with a man who had been guilty of such repeated false-
hoods, and left him abruptly.

On the 2oth Dr. Solander went on shore with Captain Cook,
and while the former went up to the town to speak to Lange, the
captain remained on the beach with the view of purchasing pro-
visions. Here he met with an old Indian, who appeared to have
some authority, and had among the crew been distinguished by
the name of the prime minister. In order to engage this man in
their interest, the captain presented him with a spy-glass. Nothing
but a small buffalo was offered to be sold, and the price asked
was five guineas, nearly twice its value. Three, however, were
offered, which the dealer thought a good price, but said that he
must acquaint the king with what had been bid before he could
strike the bargain. A messenger was immediately dispatched to
inform the rajah, who, on his return, brought word that not less
than five guineas would be taken. The captain resolved to give
this sum and a second messenger was sent. During his absence
Dr. Solander was seen coming from the town, followed by about
a hundred men, some of whom were armed with muskets, and
others with lances, and upon inquiring into the meaning of this
hostile appearance, the doctor said that Lange stated that the
people would not trade with them because they had refused to
give more than half the value for their commodities, and that all
trade would be prohibited after that day.

The English gentlemen had no doubt but that this order of
the rajah was a contrivance of Lange, and while they were de-
bating how to act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to bring the
affair to a speedy issue, Lange’s adherents began to drive away
such of the natives as had brought palm-syrup and fowls to sell,
and others who were now bringing sheep and buffaloes to the market.

At this juncture, Captain Cook, happening to look at the old
man who had been distinguished by the name of prime minister,
imagined he saw in his features a disapprobation of the present
proceedings; and willing to improve the advantage, he grasped
the Indian’s hand, and gave him an old broadsword. This well-
timed present produced all the good effects that could be wished ;
the prime minister was enraptured with this honourable mark of

a


130 COOK’S VOYAGES.



distinction, and the whole business was now accomplished. The
natives, eager to supply whatever was wanted, brought their cattle
for sale, and the market was soon stocked. For the first two
buffaloes Captain Cook gave ten guineas, but he afterwards pur-
chased them by exchange, giving a musket for each, and at this
rate he might have bought any number he thought proper. There
remained no doubt but that Lange had a profit out of the two
that were sold, and that his reason for saying that the natives
would take nothing but gold for their cattle was, that he might
the more easily share in the produce. Captain Cook purchased
of the natives of this island some hundred gallons of palm-syrup,
a small quantity of garlic, a large number of eggs, some limes and
cocoa-nuts, thirty dozen of fowls, three hogs, six sheep, and nine
buffaloes. Having obtained these necessary articles, they now
prepared for sailing from this island, which is named Savy, and is
situated in 10° 35’ S. lat. and 237° 30’ W. long.

About two years before the Endeavour was in these seas, a
French ship was wrecked on the coast of Timor. She had been
lodged on the rocks several days, when the wind broke her up,
and the captain, with the greater part of the seamen, was drowned ;
but the lieutenant and about eighty men, having reached the
shore, travelled across the country of Concordia, where their im-
mediate wants were relieved, and they afterwards returned to the
wreck, in company with some Dutchmen and Indians, who assisted
them in recovering all their chests of bullion and other effects.
This done, they returned to Concordia, where they remained seven
weeks; but during this interval death made such havoc among
them, that not above half their number lived to return to their
native country.

On the 21st of September _the Lndeavour got under weigh, and
proceeded to the westward. On the 28th they steered all day
north-west, with the view of making the island of Java; and on
the goth Captain Cook took possession of the log-book and
all the journals he could find of the officers, petty officers, and
seamen, upon whom he strictly enjoined secrecy with respect to
where they had been. At seven in the evening they had thunder
and lightning, and at twelve, by the light of the flashes, saw the
west end of Java.
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 131

On the 2nd of October they were close in with the coast of
Java, along which they now steered. In the forenoon a boat was
sent ashore, in order to procure some fruit for Tupia, who was at
this time extremely ill. The people returned with four cocoa-nuts
and a small bunch of plantains, for which they paid a shilling,
and also herbage for the cattle. The country had a delightful
appearance, being everywhere covered with trees, which’ looked
like one continuous wood. About eleven o’clock they saw two
Dutch East Indiamen, from whom they heard that the Swallow
had reached the English Channel in safety, having been at Batavia
about two years before.

At six o’clock in the evening of the 3rd, the country boats came
alongside, bringing birds, monkeys, and other articles, but they
asked such high prices that little was purchased. The captain,
indeed, gave two dollars for twenty-five fowls and a Spanish dollar
for a turtle, which weighed about six-and-thirty pounds. The
master of the Dutch packet came on board, and brought with him
two books; in one of which, he desired one of the officers would
write down the name of the ship and her commander ; the place
from whence she came ; to what port bound; with other particulars
relating to the crew, for the information of any Englishmen who
might come after. In the other book the master himself entered
the name of the ship and its captain, in order to transmit them to
the governor and council of the Indies. Mr. Hicks having written
the name of the ship, only added “from Europe.” The master
of the packet took notice of this, but said that he was satisfied
with anything they thought fit to write, it being intended solely
for the information of his friends.

On the 5th they made several attempts to sail, and as often
came to an anchor, but at length the Endeavour held her course
till the next morning, when, on account of the rapidity of the
current, the anchor was dropped again. They weighed anchor
and brought to several times till the 8th, when they anchored near
a little island, not laid down in any chart on board, called the
Milles Isles. Messrs. Banks and Solander having landed upon it,
collected a few plants, and shot a bat, , which was a yard long,....
measuring from the extreme points of the wings.

Soon after the gentlemen returned to the ship some Malays _
132 COOK’S VOYAGES.

came alongside, in a boat, bringing with them dried fish and turtle
for sale; one of the turtles, which weighed nearly 150 pounds,
they sold for a dollar. The ship made but little way till night,
when, the land-breeze springing up, they sailed to the E.S.E., and
on the following day came to an anchor in the roadstead of
Batavia.. The Hndeavour had no sooner anchored than a ship
was observed, with a broad pennant flying, from which a boat was
dispatched to demand the name of the vessel with that of the
commander. ‘To these inquiries Captain Cook gave such answers
as he thought proper, and the officer who commanded the boat
departed. This gentleman, and the crew that attended him, were
so worn out by the unhealthiness of the climate that it was appre-
hended many deaths would follow among the crew; yet there was
no invalid on board the Zndeavour except the Indian, Tupia.
The ship had become so leaky that she made, on an average, nine
inches of water in an hour; part of her false keel was gone; one
of her pumps was totally useless, and the rest so much decayed
that they could not last long. The officers and seamen concurring
in opinion that the ship could not safely put to sea in this con-
dition, the captain resolved to solicit permission to heave her
down; but as he had learned that this must be done in writing,
he drew up a petition and had it translated into Dutch.

On Wednesday, October.the roth, the captain and the rest of
the gentlemen went on shore, and applied to the only English
resident at Batavia; this gentleman, whose name was Leith, re-
ceived his countrymen in the politest manner, and entertained
them at dinner with great hospitality. In the afternoon the
captain attended the governor-general, who received him politely,
and told him to wait on the council the next morning, when his
petition should be laid before them, and everything that he
solicited should be granted. Late in the evening of this day there
happened a most terrible storm of thunder and lightning, accom-
panied with very heavy rain, by which a Dutch East Indiaman
was greatly damaged. The Endeavour, which was a small dis-
tance from the Dutch ship, escaped without damage, owing, most
probably, to an electrical chain which conducted the lightning
over the vessel. A sentry on board the Hndeavour, who was
charging his musket at the time of the storm, had it shaken out
TLE FIRST VOVAGE. 133

of his hand and the ramrod broken in pieces. The electrical
chain looked like a stream of fire, and the ship sustained a very
violent shock.

On the 11th Captain Cook waited on the gentlemen of the
council, who informed him that all his requests should be com-
plied with.

Tupia had hitherto continued on board on account of his dis-
order, which was of the bilious kind, but he persisted in refusing
every medicine that was offered him. Mr. Banks, who had hired
a small house on shore, now sent for him in hopes that he might
recover his health. While in the ship, and even in the boat, he
was exceedingly listless and low-spirited, but he no sooner entered
the town than he seemed as if reanimated. The houses, the
carriages, streets, people, and a multiplicity of other objects,
excited his astonishment. But if Tupia was astonished at the
scene, his boy Tayeto was perfectly enraptured, dancing along the
streets in a kind of ecstasy, and examining every object with a
restless curiosity. Tupia remarked particularly the variety of
dresses worn by the passing multitudes, concerning which he
made several inquiries. Being informed that here were people
of different nations, each of whom wore the habit of his respective
country, he desired that he might conform to the custom, and
appear in that of Otaheite. Some South Sea cloth being sent for
from the ship, he dressed himself with great expedition and dex-
terity. The people of Batavia, who had seen an Indian brought
thither in M. Bougainville’s ship, named Otourou, mistook Tupia
for that person, and frequently asked if he was not the same.
The captain found an unexpected difficulty in procuring money
for the expenses that would be incurred by refitting the Endeavour,
private persons having neither the ability nor inclination to ad-
vance the sum required; he therefore sent a written application
to the governor himself, who ordered a supply to the captain out
of the company’s treasury.

Thursday, the 18th, after a delay of some days, they sailed to
_ Qurust, and laid the ship alongside of the wharf on Cooper's
Island, in order to take out her stores. After little more than
nine days they began to feel the fatal effects of the climate.
Tupia sunk on a sudden, and grew every day worse and worse.
134 COOK’S VOYAGES.

Tayeto, his boy, was seized with inflammation of the lungs. Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander were attacked with fever, and two servants
of the former became very ill; in short, almost every person,
both on board and on shore, fell sick in a few days, owing, as
was imagined, to the low swampy situation of the place, and the
numberless dirty canals that intersect the town in all directions.

By the 26th, few of the crew were able to do duty. Tupia
desired to be removed to the ship, in hopes of breathing a freer
air. However, this could not be done, as she was unrigged and
preparing to be laid down at the careening place. On the 28th,_
however, Mr. Banks conveyed him to Cooper’s Island, and a tent
was pitched for him in a situation where the sea and land breezes
might blow over him.

| sp On the 5th of November died Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon,

whose loss was severely felt, for not only was he a sensible, skilful
man, but his death occurred at a time when his abilities were
most wanted. Dr. Solander was just able to attend his funeral,
but Mr. Banks in his turn was confined to his bed. “The power
of disease, from the pestiferous air of the country, daily gained
strength. Several Malay servants were hired to attend the sick,
but they had so little sense either of duty or humanity, that the
patients were obliged frequently to get out of bed to seek them.

On the gth, the Ind:an boy, Tayeto, paid the debt of nature,
and poor Tupia was so affected at the loss, that it was evident he
could not long survive him. The ship’s bottom having been
carefully examined, it was found to be in a worse condition than
had been apprehended. The false keel was in a great measure
gone; the main keel was injured in many places; much of the
sheathing was torn off, and several planks were greatly damaged :
the worms, also, had made their way quite into the timber ; yet
in this condition the Zndeavour had sailed many hundred leagues,
in seas where navigation is as dangerous as in any part of the
globe.

Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were now so worn down by their,
disorders that their medical attendant declared they had no
chance of recovery but by removing into the country. A house
was therefore hired for them, about two miles from the town;
and they bought two Malay women, who, from the tenderness of
THE FIRST VOYAGE. 135.



their sex, became good nurses. While these gentlemen were
taking measures for the recovery of their health, Tupia sunk under
his disorder and the loss of his boy, Tayeto, whom he loved with
the tenderness of a parent. When Tayeto was first seized with
the fatal disorder he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and
frequently said to those that were about him, “See, my friends, I
am dying.” He was very tractable, and took any medicine that
was offered him. ‘They were both buried in the Island of Edam.

During the night of the 25th there fell a shower of rain for the
space of four hours, such as the voyagers had scarcely ever re-
membered. The water poured through every part of Mr. Banks’
house, and the lower apartments admitted a stream sufficient to
turn a mill. As this gentleman was now greatly restored to health,
he went to Batavia the following day. About the 26th of Novem-
ber the westerly monsoon set in, blowing, in the daytime, from
the north or north-west, and from the south-west during the night.
Previous to this there had been violent showers of rain for several
nights. The mosquitoes and gnats now began to swarm in im-
mense numbers, rising from the puddles of water like bees from a
hive. The frogs also kept up a perpetual croaking in the ditches,
a certain sign that the wet season was commenced, and that daily
rain might be expected.

The Endeavour being repaired, the sick people received on
board her, and the greater part of her water and stores taken in, Q\

she sailed from Ourust_on the 8th_of December, and anchored in LX QUAM

Batavia roads. Twelve days were employed in receiving the re-
mainder of her provisions, water, and other necessaries, though
the business would have been done in much less time but that
some of the crew died, and the majority of the survivors were SO
ill as to be unable to give their assistance.

On the sth, Captain Cook took leave of the governor and some
other gentlemen who had showed him attention; but at this
juncture’ an incident occurred that might have produced con-
sequences by no means desirable. A sailor, belonging to one of
the Dutch ships in the roads of Batavia, deserted from the vessel,
and entered himself on board the Zndeavour. The captain of the
Dutch ship having made application to the governor claiming the
delinquent as a subject of the States-General, the governor issued
136 COOK'S VOYAGES.



his order for the restoration of the man. When this order was
delivered to the British officer, he said the man should be given
up if he were a Dutchman. As the captain was at this time
on shore, and did not intend going on board till the following
day, he gave the Dutch officer a note to the lieutenant who com-
manded on board the Endeavour to deliver the deserter on the
condition above mentioned. On the following day the Dutch-
man waited on Captain Cook, informing him that the leutenant
had absolutely refused to give up the seaman, saying he was an
Irishman, and, of course, a subject of his Britannic Majesty.
Captain Cook applauded the conduct of his officer, and added
that it could not be expected that he should deliver up an English
subject. The Dutch officer then said he was authorised by the
governor to demand the fugitive as a Danish subject, adding that
his name was entered in the ship’s books as having been born at
Elsinore. To this Captain Cook very properly replied that the
governor must have been mistaken when he gave this order for
delivering the deserter, who had his option whether he would
serve the Dutch or the English ; but in compliment to the governor,
the man should be given up as a favour, if he appeared to be a
Dane, but that in this case he should by no means be demanded
as a right ; and that he would certainly keep him if he appeared
to be a subject of the crown of Great Britain. The Dutchman
now took his leave, and had not been long gone before the
captain received a letter from the commanding officer on board,
containing full proof that the man was an English subject. This
letter the captain carried to the Dutch officer, desiring him to lay
it before the governor, and to inform him that the man should
not be delivered up on any terms whatever. This spirited con-
duct on the part of Captain Cook had the desired effect, and
thus the matter ended.

The captain, attended by Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen,
- who had hitherto lived in the town, now repaired on board the
ship, which got under weigh the next morning. The &n-
deavour was saluted by the fort and by the Zigin East Indiaman,
which then layin the roads; but soon after these compliments
were returned, the sea-breeze setting in, they were obliged to come
to anchor. Since the arrival of the ship in Batavia roads, every
THE FIRST VOVAGE. 137



person belonging to her had been ill, except the sailmaker, who

- was more than seventy years old, and who had been drunk every
day they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her
people at Batavia, viz, Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors,
the servant of Mr. Green the astronomer, and the surgeon ; and
at the time of the vessel’s sailing, forty of the crew were sick, and
the rest so enfeebled by their late illness as to be scarcely able to
do their duty.

Batavia is built on the bank of a large bay, something more
than twenty miles from the Straits of Sunda, on the north side of
the island of Java. Several small rivers which rise forty miles up
the country, in the mountains of Blaeuwen Berg, discharge them-
selves into the sea at this place, having | first intersected the town
in different directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnant
water in almost every street; and as the banks of the canals are
planted with trees, the effect is very agreeable; but these trees
and canals combine to render the air pestilential. Some of the
rivers are navigable more than thirty miles up the country ; and,
indeed, the Dutch appear to have chosen this spot for the sake
of water carriage, in which convenience Batavia exceeds every
place in the world, except the towns of Holland.

The town is entered by two drawbridges; in the north-east
corner is a castle, and no persons are permitted to walk on the
ramparts.

Apartments are provided in this castle for the governor-general
and all the council. In the castle are likewise a number of store-
houses, in which the effects of the Dutch company are deposited.
They have in their possession large quantities of gunpowder,
which is kept in different places, in order that the lightning may
not destroy the whole stock at once; a large number of cannon
are likewise laid up within the castle. There are a great many
forts built in different parts of the country, several miles distant
from Batavia, and there are also a number of fortified houses.

The island of Java produces horses, buffaloes, sheep, goats, and
hogs. The horned cattle of the country are different from those
of Europe, and are quite lean, but the flesh is of a very fine grain.
The Chinese and the natives of Java eat the buffalo’s flesh,
which the Dutch generally refuse, being impressed with an idea


~

138 COOK’S VOYAGES.

that it produces fever. The sheep are hairy, like goats, and have
long ears; they are mostly found to be tough and ill-flavoured. -
The hogs, especially those of the Chinese stock, are very fine food,
and so fat, that the lean is separately sold to the butchers, who
are Chinese; the fat they melt, and sell to their countrymen, to
be eaten with rice.

The Portuguese shoot the wild hogs and deer, which are sold
at a moderate price, and are good eating; the goats are as in-
different as the sheep. The waters around Batavia abound in
fish of many varieties. Very large lizards are common in the
island, and Mr. Banks shot one five feet long, which, being dressed,
proved very agreeable to the taste.

The inhabitants of Java are Mohammedans, and hence do not
drink wine _publicly ; but in private few of them will refuse 3 it.
They also chew opium, whose intoxicating qualities prove its re-
commendation to the natives of India and China.

On Thursday, the 27th of December, 1770,. the Endeavour left
the harbour of Batavia, and stood out to sea. On the 2gth, after
much delay by contrary winds, they weathered Pulo Pare, and
stood for the mainland. On the same day they passed a small
island between Batavia and Bantam called Man-eater’s Island.

_ On the morning of New Year's Day, Tuesday, January 1, 1771;
they steered for the Java shore, and continued their course, as the
wind permitted, till three o’clock in the afternoon of the 5th,
when they cast anchor on the south-east side of Prince’s Island,
to recruit their stores and procure provisions for the sick, many
of whom were much worse than they were at their departure from
Batavia. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, accompanied by the
captain and other gentlemen, went ashore. They met upon the
beach some Indians, by whom they were conducted to one who
they said was their king. Mr. Banks paid this potentate a visit
on the following evening, and was received very graciously at his
palace, in the middle of a rice-field, notwithstanding his majesty |



was busily employed in dressing his own supper. Monday, the
7th, the Indians resorted to the trading place with fowls, fish,
monkeys, small deer, and some vegetables ; but no turtle appeared
till the next day, Tuesday, the 8th, after which some were brought

to market every day.


THE FIRST VOYAGE. 139



Friday, the r1th, Mr. Banks having received intelligence from
a servant he had hired at Batavia, that the Indians of this island
had a town situated near the shore, to the westward, he deter-
mined to go in search of it. With this view he set out in the
morning, accompanied by the second lieutenant ; and apprehend-
ing his visit might not be agreeable to the natives, he told such of
them as he met that he was in search of plants, which was, indeed,
also true. An old man guided them to the town, the name of
which is Samadang. It consisted of about four hundred houses,
divided by a broadish river into two parts, one called the old and
the other the new town. When they entered the former, : they
were accosted by several Indians, whom they had seen at the
trading place, and one of whom undertook to carry them over to
the new town at twopence per head. The bargain being made,
they embarked in two small canoes, placed alongside each other,
and lashed together to prevent their upsetting. They landed
safely, though not without some difficulty ; and when they came to
the new town, the people paid them every mark of cordial friendship,
showing them the houses of their king and principal people. Few
of the houses were open at this time, the inhabitants having taken
up their residence in the rice-grounds, to defend their crops against
the birds and monkeys, who, without this necessary precaution,
would destroy them. When their curiosity was satisfied, they
hired a large sailing boat for two rupees, value four shillings,
which conveyed them to the ship in time to dine upon one of the
small deer, weighing only forty pounds, which proved to be exceed-
ing good and savoury food. On Sunday, the 13th, having nearly
completed their wood and water, Mr. Banks took leave of his
majesty, to whom he made several trifling presents, and at parting
gave him two quires of paper, which he graciously accepted.

On Thursday, the x5th, they weighed, with a light breeze at
north-east, and stood out to sea. Prince’s Island, where they

had passed about ten days, is a small island, situated in the

western mouth of the Straits of Sunda; it is woody, a very small
portion having been cleared.

The inhabitants are Javanese, and their rajah is subject to the

Sultan of Bantam. They profess the Mohammedan religion, but
not a mosque was seen in the wholeisland. While the Zndeavour
140 COOK’S VOYAGES.



lay there, they kept the fast called by the Turks Ramadan with
extreme rigour, not one of them touching a morsel of victuals ;
nor would they chew their betel till sunset.

Beha The Endeavour held on her course during the month of February,
pans made the best of her way for the Cape of Good Hope. The

i

fenrel.

rf
x
HE

I!

fatal seeds of disease the people had imbibed at Batavia began
now to appear in dysenteries and low fevers. {n a short time the
ship was little better than a hospital, and almost every night a
corpse was committed to the sea. Mr. Banks was among the
number of the sick; and for some time his life was despaired of.
In the course of six weeks they buried: Mr. Sporting, a gentleman
of Mr. Banks’ retinue ; Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter ;
Mr. Green, the astronomer ; the boatswain, the carpenter and his
mate, Mr. Monkhouse, the sailmaker and his assistant, the cook,
the corporal of marines, two of the carpenter’s crew, a midshipman,
and nine sailors; in all, three-and-twenty persons, besides the
seven that had been buried in Batavia; such was the havoc
disease had made among the ship’s company, though they omitted
no means which might prevent the infection from spreading.

Friday, the r5th_of March, about ten o’clock P.m., the ship
came to an anchor off the Cape of Good Hope. Captain Cook

‘repaired immediately to the governor, who cheerfully promised
him every refreshment the country afforded; on which a house
was hired for the sick, and it was agreed that they should be
lodged and boarded for two shillings each man a day.

At the time the Endeavour lay at the Cape of Good Hope, the
Houghton Indiaman sailed for England. She had buried nearly
forty of her crew, and when she left the Cape had many of her
hands in a helpless condition, occasioned by the scurvy. Other
ships also experienced a proportionate loss by sickness, so that
the sufferings of the Hndeavour were comparatively light, consider-
ing her long absence from England. They continued at the Cape
till the 13th of April, to recover the sick, procure stores, and do
some necessary work upon the ship and rigging ; and on Sunday,
the rath, having taken leave of the governor, unmoored, and got
ready to sail.

On the following Thursday died Mr. Robert Molineux, a pro-
mising youth. They continued their voyage without any remark-


THE FIRST VOVAGE, 141



able incident, and on Monday, the zoth, crossed the first
meridian, having circumnavigated the globe from E. to W., and
consequently lost a day, for which, upon correcting their reckon-
ing at Batavia, they made allowance. On Monday, the ist of
May, they came to anchor before James’s Fort, in the island of
St. Helena, and Mr. Banks employed his time in visiting the
most remarkable places and in surveying every object of note.

St. Helena is situated almost midway between Africa and
America, being twelve hundred miles distant fro and
eighteen hundred from the latter, It was so named by the
Portuguese, who discovered it on St. Helen’s day. As the LEn-
deavour approached the island on the windward side, it appeared
like a rude heap of rocks, bounded by precipices of an amazing
height. Sailing along shore, they came near the huge cliffs which
seemed to overhang the ship. At length they opened Chapel
Valley, in which lies the town. The sides of the valley are as
naked as the cliffs next the sea; but the bottom is slightly covered
with herbage.

Notwithstanding the land appears a barren rock on every side,
yet on the top it is covered with a fine layer of earth, producing
grain, fruits, and herbs of various kinds ; and the country, after
ascending the rock, is diversified with rising hills and plains,
plantations of fruit trees, and kitchen gardens, among which the
houses of the natives are interspersed ; and in the open fields are
herds of cattle grazing, some of which are fatted to supply the

cheese. Hogs, goats, turkeys, and all manner of poultry also
abound, and the seas are well stored with fish. Besides grapes,
they have plantains, bananas, and such other fruit as hot countries
usually produce. They also raise kidney beans, potatoes, and
yams.

In the year rzor there were upon the island about roo families,
most of them English, or descended from English parents.

The Portuguese, who discovered this island in 1502, stored it
with hogs, goats, and poultry, and used to touch at it for water
and fresh provisions in their return from India ; but we do not
find they ever planted a colony there ; or, if they did, having de-
serted it afterwards, the English East India Company took pos-

y
\
é
shipping, and the rest furnish the dairies with milk, butter, and ly
Â¥
XS
SS

Mk
1b Tt

142

COOK’S VOYAGES.



session of the island ap. 1699, and held it till 1673, without
interruption, when the Dutch took it by surprise. However, the
English, commanded by Captain Munden, recovered it again
within the space of one year, and took three Dutch East India
ships that lay in the roads at the time. The Dutch had fortified
the landing-place, and placed batteries of great guns to prevent a |
descent, but the English being acquainted with the small creek
where only two men could go abreast, climbed up to the top of
the rocks in the night time, and appearing next morning at the
backs of the Dutch, they threw down their arms without striking
a blow; but this creek has been since fortified, so that there is
now no place where an enemy can make a descent with any pro-
bability of success.

The affairs of the East India Company are managed here by a
governor, deputy-governor, and storehousekeeper, who have
certain settled salaries allowed, besides a public table well
furnished, to which all commanders, masters of ships, and
eminent passengers are welcome.

The natives sometimes call the result of their deliberations,
severe impositions, and though relief might perhaps be had from
the Company in England, yet the unavoidable delays in returning
answers to addresses at that distance puts the aggrieved under
great hardship. On the other hand, were not the situation of
this island very serviceable to our homeward-bound East India
ships, the constant trouble and expense would induce the Com-
pany to abandon it, for though it is furnished with the con-
veniences of life, the merchants find no other profitable commodities
there.

The children and descendants of the white people of St. Helena
are remarkable for their ruddy complexions and robust constitu-
tions. Their healthiness may, in general, be ascribed to the
following causes. They live on the top of a mountain always open
to the sea-breezes that constantly blow here; they are usually
employed in the most healthful exercises of gardening and hus-
bandry ; the island is frequently refreshed with moderate cooling
showers, and no noxious fens or salt marshes annoy them. They
are accustomed also to climb the steep hill between the town in
Chepel Valley and their plantations. The hill is so steep, that,


THE FIRST VOVAGE. 143





having a ladder in the centre, they call it Ladderhill; and as this
cannot be avoided without going three or four miles round, they
seldom want air or exercise—the great preservatives of health.
As to the genius and temper of these people, they seemed to be
the most hospitable ever met with of English extraction, having
scarce any tincture of avarice or ambition.

Having sufficiently recruited their stores, on Saturday, the 4th
of May, the Zndeavour weighed and sailed out of the roadstead in
company with the Portland man-of-war and her convoy, consisting

of twelve sail of East Indiamen. With this fleet they continued
their course for England until Friday, the_roth, when, perceiving
they were outsailed, Captain Cook made the signal to speak with
the Portland, upon which Captain Elliot came on board the
Endeavour ; a letter for the Admiralty was then delivered to him,
with a box containing the common log-books of the ship, and the
journals of some of the officers. The Hndeavour did not lose
sight of the fleet till Thursday, the 23rd. About one o’clock in
the afternoon of that day they lost the first lieutenant, Mr. Hicks,
an active, skilful, and judicious officer. He died of consumption,
of which lingering disorder he discovered some symptoms when
he left England, so that it might be said he was dying the whole
voyage ; his decline was very gradual till he arrived at Batavia,
from whence, to the time of his dissolution, the disease gained
strength daily. The whole ship’s company attended the funeral,
and his body was committed to the sea with the usual ceremonies.
The next day the captain appointed Mr. Charles Clerke, a young
officer, to act in the room of Mr. Hicks. They now drew near
their desired haven, and held on their course without any material
occurrence, till Monday, the roth of June, when, to their great
joy, Nicholas Young, the boy who first discovered New Zealand,
sighted land from the mast-head, which proved to be the Lizard.
_ The next day, being Tuesday, the 11th, they proceeded up the
Channel; on Wednesday they passed Beachy Head with the
pleasing hope of soon seeing their relatives and friends. At noon
they were abreast of Dover, and about three oclock in the after-
noon came to an anchor in the Downs, after an absence of two_
years nine months and fourteen days.


THE SECOND VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN COOK.

Tur discoveries made by Captain Cook in his first voyage, when
he circumnavigated the globe, ascertained that New Zealand con-
sisted of two islands, and explored : an immense tract of De
George eet to “project a second expedition, also to ite under the
command of Captain Cook, and the Navy Board was ordered to
equip two such ships as were most suitable for the service.
Accordingly two vessels were purchased of Captain William
Hammond, of Hull; they were both built at Whitby, about six-
teen months before, by the same person who built the Zndeavour.
The larger of the two, named the Resolution, of 462 tons burden,
was sent to Deptford to be fitted out ; and the Adventure, a vessel
of 336 tons, was equipped at Woolwich. On the 28th of November,
1771, Captain Cook was appointed to the command of the
Resolution, and Tobias Furneaux, who had been second lieutenant
with Captain Wallis, was promoted to the command of the
Adventure. The Resolution had 112 hands on board, officers
included, and the Adventure had 8r.

The two ships were ordered to be got in readiness with the
utmost expedition, and both the Navy and Victualling Boards
paid unusual attention to their equipment. Indeed, Captain
Cook sailed with greater advantages in this expedition than any
of his predecessors who had gone out before on voyages of dis-
covery. He had the frame of a vessel of twenty tons, one for each
ship, to serve occasionally, or upon any emergency, as tenders.
He had on board fishing-nets, lines, and hooks of every kind ; he
was supplied with innumerable articles of small value, adapted to
the commerce of the tropical islands ; also additional clothing for
the seamen, particularly suited to a cold climate, to all which

-were added the best instruments for astronomical and nautical

observations, including four timepieces on Mr. Harrison’s prin-
144 ;
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 145

Galen constructed en Messrs. Arnold and ee And that
nothing might be wanting to procure information, and could tend
to the success of the voyage, Mr. William Hodges, a landscape
painter, was engaged for this important undertaking, and also Mr.
John Reinhold Foster and his son, both eminent naturalists. Mr.
William Wales, and Mr. William Bailey, were likewise engaged to
make astronomical observations ; the former being placed by the
Board of Longitude in the Resolution, and Mr. Bailey in the
Adventure. A number of medals were also struck by order of the
Lords of the Admiralty, intended to be left as presents and
memorials in newly-discovered countries.

The two ships were victualled and provided with all manner of
necessaries for a three years’ voyage, and all the conveniences
necessary for the preservation of health during that time, were
provided in abundance.

A voyage attended with such extraordinary preparations,
patronised by Parliament as well as assisted by the royal bounty,
and the preparations superintended by the first officers of the
Admiralty, the navy, and by Captain Cook himself, might, with
propriety, be pronounced the most important ever performed in
any age, or by any country; and it may also be asserted, with
truth, that the able navigator selected by his sovereign was equal
to the task on which he was embarked. Everyone who has read
the account of his first voyage cannot but admire his skill, his
fortitude, his care of his men; his vigilance in attending to the
minutest intimations of former navigators, and his perseverance
amidst the dangers and hardships of rigorous seasons ; in short,
his conduct throughout was beyond all praise, for while he kept
every man in strict subordination, he conciliated ie affections of
all and secured their esteem.

Captain Cook received from the Board of Admiralty his in- |

structions, dated the 25th of June, the tenor and substance of
which were as follows :—That the Adventure was to be under his
command ; that the two ships were to proceed to the island of
having : at this ae refreshed the ship’ S “companies, a Bartel
them with provisions and other necessaries, they were to. make

the best of their way to the southward, in search of Cape Circum-
K
146 COOK’S VOVAGES.,

cision, which, by M. Bouvet, is said to be in latitude 542 S., and
in about 11° 20’ E. longitude, from the Royal Observatory at
Greenwich. That if they fell in with this cape, Captain Cook was
to endeavour by all means in his power to discover whether the
same was part of the supposed continent which had so much
engaged the attention of different European powers, or only the
promontory of an island; that, in either case, the gentlemen on
board the two ships were diligently to explore the same, to the
utmost extent possible, and make such observations as might
correspond with the grand object in view, and be useful to either
navigation or commerce. That they were to proceed on new
discoveries to the eastward or westward, as the captain might
judge most eligible, endeavouring only to run into as high a
latitude, and as near the South Pole as possible. That whatever
might be the result of their investigations with respect to Cape
Circumcision, they were to continue their surveys to the south-
ward, and then to the eastward, either in search of the said
continent, should it not have been ascertained, or to make dis-
coveries of such islands as might be situated in the hitherto
unexplored and unknown parts of the southern latitudes. That,
having circumnavigated the globe, they were to return to Spithead
by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, and that to answer the
intentions of Government in this voyage as fully as possible, when
the season of the year rendered it unsafe to continue in high
latitudes, they were to repair to some known port to the north-
ward ; and after having refitted, were to return again at the proper
season to the southward, in prosecution of new discoveries there.
It may not be amiss here to observe that these orders were not
intended to cramp Captain Cook, who was allowed, in case the
Resolution should be lost, to continue his voyage in the Adventure.
To this end he had a strong staff of officers ; he was not limited
as to time ; in short, he had ample power, full authority, and in
all unforeseen cases he was to proceed according to his own dis-
cretion, and act entirely as he pleased.

A copy of the above instructions was transmitted to Captain
Furneaux, together with Captain Cook’s orders, in which he
appointed, should the two ships be separated, the island of Madeira
for the first place of rendezvous, Port Praya for the second, the
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 147

Cape of Good | Hope f for the third, and New Zealand for the
fourth.

While they ene nee at Plymouth, Mr. Wales and Mr. Bailey
made observations on Drake’s Island, when the latitude was found
to be 50° 21’ 30” N., and the longitude 4° 20’ West of Greenwich ;
whereby the true time for putting the timepieces and watches in

motion was ascertained. This was done on the 13th of July, and —

they were set agoing in the presence of the two astronomers,
Captain Furneaux, Captain Cook, and the two first leutenants of
the ships. ‘These had each of them keys of the boxes which con-
tained the watches, and were always to be present at the winding
them up, and comparing the one with the other, unless prevented
by indisposition. This day the ships’ crews, according to the
custom of the navy, received two months’ wages in advance. Asa
further encouragement that they might provide necessaries for the
voyage, they were likewise paid the wages due to them to the 28th
of the preceding May.

On Monday, the 13th of July, 1772, the ships left Plymouth.
As they stood off shore the wind increased, and the sea ran so
high that most of the seamen were affected with sickness. When
in sight of Cape_Finisterre they met a small French tartan, from
Marseilles, freighted with flour from Ferrol and Corunna, and
gave to them a small supply of fresh water, which they much
wanted, having been obliged to subsist on bread and wine. Qn
the 22nd, in the afternoon, they passed two Spanish men-of-war,
one of which fired a shot at the Adventure, to bring her to; but
on hailing her, and being told they were king’s ships, made an
apology and took their leave, wishing them a good voyage. On
Wednesday, the 29th, they anchored in Funchal roads, in the
island of Madeiza. The captain went on shore, accompanied by
the two Fosters, and were conducted by Mr. Sills, a gentleman
from the vice-consul, to the house of Mr. Loughnans, a wealthy
English merchant, who, during their stay, assisted them with
everything the island and his house afforded.

The Madeira or Madera islands are only_three_in_number,
namely, Madeira properly so called; the island of Puerto, or
Porto Santo ; to; and Isla-Deserta, or the Desolate Isle. They’ were

thus named from the principal island, which was called by the
148 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Portuguese Madeira, signifying a wood or forest, being overgrown
with trees. Their discovery is due to the spirit of adventure that
animated the Portuguese in the fifteenth century, though it is said
that they were first discovered by an Englishman of the name of
Robert Machin, in the reign of King Edward III.

John I, King ‘of. Portugal, having entered into a war with the
Moors, passed over into Africa with a formidable army, and in the
year 1415 laid siege to and took Ceuta. In this expedition he
was accompanied by his sons, one of whom, Prince Henry, took
great delight in the study of mathematics, particularly geography
and navigation. Upon this occasion he had a good opportunity
of conversing with the Moors and African Jews; and informing
himself by their means, of the situation of several foreign countries,
the seas about them; and their coasts.

Hence grew an insatiable thirst for making new discoveries ;
and from this time he was determined to devote his attention to
the discovery of unknown countries. In consequence of which
resolution he retired, after the reduction of Ceuta, to the Algarves,
where he founded a new town within a league of Cape St. Vincent,
erected a fort to defend it, and determined to send out ships from
thence on voyages of discovery. The person he intended to
employ as a chief commander upon these occasions was a gentle-
man of extraordinary abilities, named Juan Gonsalvo Zarco, who
became famous not only for his maritime discoveries, but for being
the first person who introduced the use of artillery on board ship.
In 1418 he discovered Puerto Santo, and in 1420 discovered
Madeira itself, landing at a place covered over with fennel, which
in Portuguese language is called funcho ; from thence the town of
Funchal, or Funchiale, took its name, being afterwards built on
the same spot.

Juan Gonsalvo, after having viewed other parts of the island,
and finding daily new cause for admiration of the beauties con-
tinually discovered, returned to Portugal, and arrived at Lisbon in
the end of August, 1420, without having lost a single man in the
whole enterprise ; and a day of audience being appointed for him
to make his report of his voyage, the king gave the name of
Madeira to the new discovered island, on account of the great
quantity of wood found upon it. Soon after an order was made


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 149



for a Gonsalvo to return to Madeira in the ensuing spring,
with the title of Captain-Governor of Madeira, to which title the
heir of his family at present adds that of count. He accordingly
set sail on his second voyage in May, 1421, taking with him the
greater part of his family; and arriving at Madeira, cast anchor in
the roads, till then called English Port; but Gonsalvo, in honour
of the first discoverer, renamed it Puerto de Machino, from which
name it was corrupted to Machico, “which it now bears. He soon
after laid the foundation of the town of Funchal, which afterwards
became famous; and the altar of the new wooden church was
dedicated to St. Catherine by his wife Constantia, who was with
him.

- The island of Madeira, properly so called, is composed of one
continued hill of a wonderful height, extending from east to west,
the declivity of which on the south side is cultivated and inter-
spersed with vineyards; and in the midst of this slope the mer-
chants have fixed their country seats, which help to render the
prospect very agreeable.

The ships departed from Madeira on the 1st of August, and on
the gth crossed the Tropic of Cancer.

On Monday, the roth, they came to anchor in Port..Praya, in
the isle of St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. An officer was
sent on shore for leave to procure what necessaries they wanted,
which was readily granted ; and on his return the ships saluted the
fort with eleven guns. Here both the ships were supplied with
plenty of good water; they also recruited their live stock, such as
hogs, goats, and poultry.

The island of St. Jago, or St. James’ s Island, is the most fruitful
of all the Cape de Verd islands. The principal town, bearing the
same name, stands on the slopes of the mountains, between which
a deep valley, 200 yards wide, runs close to the sea. In that
part of the valley nearest the sea is a straggling street, with houses
on each side, and a rivulet of water flowing at the bottom, which
empties itself into a fine cove or sandy bay, where ships can ride
with great safety. A small fort stands near the landing-place, and
not far from it, a battery mounted with a few small cannon.

A tolerably large town is on the east side of the island called
Praya, where there is a good port, which is seldom without ships,


150 COOK’S VOVAGES.



especially in peaceable times. In former days East Indiamen,
outward bound, used to touch at this port to take in water and
provisions, but they seldom stopped here on their return to
Europe. The town of Praya does not contain any remarkable
building, except a fort, situated on the top of a hill, which
commands the harbour.

On Friday, the r4th of August, both ships having got on board
a supply of refreshments and provisions, weighed anchor and
continued their voyage to the Cape of Good Hope. On the xoth,
one of the carpenter’s mates fell overboard and was drowned.
He was sitting on one of the scuttles, from whence it was supposed
he fell. All endeavours to save him were in vain, for he was not
seen till the instant he sunk under the ship’s stern. His loss was
much deplored by his shipmates, as he was a sober man anda
good workman.

On Thursday, the goth, it rained heavily, and they filled seven
empty puncheons with fresh water. On the 27th one of Captain
Furneaux’s petty officers died, but on board the Resolution there
was not one man sick, although much rain fell, which in the
tropics is a great promoter of sickness. Captain Cook took every
necessary precaution for the preservation of health, by airing and
drying the ship with fires made between decks, and by making the
crew air their bedding and wash their clothes at every opportunity.

On Tuesday, the 8th of September, they crossed the Line in

‘longitude 8° W. Some of the crew, who had never passed the

Line before, were obliged to undergo the usual ceremony of duck-
ing, but others bought themselves off by paying the required
forfeit of brandy.

On Thursday, the 29th, at two o’clock p.m., they made the land
about Table Bay. They were visited by the master-attendant of
the fort, some other officers belonging to the Company, and Mr.
Brandt. This last gentleman brought many articles that were
very acceptable ; and the master-attendant, as is customary, took
an account of the two ships, inquiring particularly if the smallpox
was on board, a disorder dreaded above all others by the inhabi-
tants of the Cape, for which reason a surgeon always attends on
these visits. Captain Cook sent an officer to wait upon Baron
Plettenberg, the governor, to inform him of their arrival ; and on


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 15



the return of the officer with a polite message from the governor,
the English saluted the fort with eleven guns, which compliment
was acknowledged by the same number.

and taken leave of the governor and other officers, who in a most
obliging manner had afforded all the necessary assistance they
required, they weighed and saluted the fort with sixteen guns,
which compliment was instantly returned. As soon as they had
cleared the land, they directed their course, as ordered, to Cape
Circumcision. As they were now advancing towards the Antarctic
circle, and expected to encounter cold weather, the captain ordered
the fresh water to be husbanded as muchas possible ; at the same
time he supplied each man with a dreadnought jacket and trousers,
allowed by the Admiralty, also “slops” to such who wanted
them.

On the 29th a heavy storm came from the W.N.W., which
lasted, with a few intervals of moderate weather, for nearly a week ;
the sea ran very high, and frequently broke over the ships, causing
great discomfort to all on board. A boy in the fore part of the
ship hearing a noise of water running among the chests, turned
out of his bunk, and found the water nearly up to his knees.
Upon this all hands worked at the pumps, but still water increased,
until at last it was discovered to come in through a scuttle in the
boatswain’s storeroom. ‘This gale, attended with hail and rain,
continued till the 8th with such fury that they could carry no
sails ; and being thus driven far to the eastward of their intended
course, not the least hope remained of reaching Cape Circumcision.
Their distress was augmented by the loss of a great part of the
live-stock they had brought from the Cape. As the people felt
the effects of the sudden transition from warm to extreme cold
weather, an addition was made to the allowance of brandy in both
ships. On the morning of the 7th_of December the rising sun
gave a flattering prospect of serene weather, but the expectations
soon vanished. The barometer fell unusually low, and by one
o’clock p.m. the wind blew with such violence from the N.W. as
to oblige them to strike the top-gallant-masts. On the 8th the
gale was somewhat abated, but the sea ran too high to carry more
than the fore-topmast staysail.

On the 22nd of November, having got everything on board, } OTe

1
¥52 COOK’S VOYAGES.



On Wednesday, the gth, at three a.m., Captain Cook wore the
ship to the southward. Showers of snow fell, with squally weather.
At eight, made signal for the Adventure to set sail. On the roth
made another signal for her to lead, and saw an iceberg to the
westward. The weather being hazy, Captain Cook, by signal,
called the Adventure under his stern, a fortunate circumstance, as
the fog increased so much that they could not discern an iceberg,
for which they were steering, till they were within a mile of it.
The sea broke very high against this iceberg, which Captain
Furneaux took for land, and therefore hauled off from it, till he
was called back by signal. It being now necessary to proceed
with great circumspection, they reefed their topsails, and, upon
sounding, found no ground with 150 fathoms.

On Monday, the 14th, a boat was hoisted out for two gentle-
men to make some observations and experiments. While they
were thus engaged, the fog increased so much that they lost sight
of both ships. Their situation was truly alarming, as they were
only in a small four-oared boat in an immense ocean, surrounded
with ice, utterly destitute of provisions, and far from any habitable
shore. They made various efforts to be heard, and rowed about
for some time without effect; they could not see the length of
their boat, nor hear any sound ; they had neither mast nor sail,
and only two oars. They determined to lie still, as the weather
was calm, and hoped that the ships would not sail out of sight.
They now heard a bell sounded at a distance, and were at last
taken up by the Adventure. So great was the thickness of the
fog sometimes, that the ships had the utmost difficulty to avoid
running against the icebergs, with which they were surrounded.
There were two men on board the Resolution who had been in the
Greenland trade, and one had lain nine weeks, and the other six,
stuck fast in a field of ice. As the crew complained of the cold,
their jackets were lengthened with baize, and each of them had a
cap made of the same stuff. Scorbutic symptoms appearing on
some of the people, the surgeons gave them fresh wort every day,
made from the malt they took out for that purpose.

On the 27th they had a dead calm, and devoted the opportunity
to shooting petrels and penguins, which afforded great sport.
The plumage of the penguin is very thick, the feathers long and
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 153



narrow, and lie as close as scales, which secures them against wet,
in which they almost continually live. Nature has likewise given
them a thick skin, in order to resist the perpetual winter of these
inhospitable climates. The petrels are likewise well provided
against the severity of the weather, and have an astonishing
quantity of feathers, two feathers instead of one proceeding out of
every root.

They now had very bad weather, consisting of thick fogs, rain,
sleet, and snow, and were surrounded with great quantities of ice,
and in constant danger of being injured by it.

On the 29th the commanders came to a resolution, provided
they met with no impediment, to run as far west as Cape Circum-
cision, since the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ice, and the
distance not more than eighty leagues. They steered for an
iceberg this day, intending tc take some on board and convert it
into fresh water. They could not, however, take up any of the
loose ice, for the wind rose and made it dangerous for the ships
to remain among the ice; besides which, they discovered an
immense field of ice to the north, extending further than the eye
could reach.

On the rath of January, 1773, the gale abated, but there fell
much snow and sleet, which froze on the rigging of the ships.

‘The wind continued moderate the next day, and they were |

favoured with a sight of the moon, which they had not seen since
they left the Cape of Good Hope.

On Friday, the 8th, they passed several icebergs, and in the
evening came to one e which had a vast quantity of loose ice about
it, and the weather being moderate, they sent the boats out to
take up as much as they could. Large piles of it were packed
upon the quarter-deck and put into casks, from which, after it was
melted, they got water enough for thirty days; very little salt
water adhered to the ice, wold, when melted, was fresh and
_an immense





size.

~ On the 17th they crossed the Antarctic circle, and poencea
into the southern frigid zone, which to all former navigators had
remained impenetrable. In the afternoon they saw thirty-eight

icebergs, large and small. This immense field was composed of
154 COOK’S VOYAGES.



different kinds of ice, such as field ice, so called by the Greenland
men, and packed ice. They saw several whales playing about
and large petrels. The latitude was now 67° 15’ S., and not
thinking it prudent to persevere in a southerly direction, Captain
Cook resolved to go directly in search of the land lately discovered
by the French.

On the zgth several porpoises passed with amazing swiftness ;
they had a large white spot on their sides, which came almost up
to their backs.

On the gist they passed a large iceberg, which at the time of

their sailing by was tumbling to pieces with a loud report like that
of a cannon.
_ On the 4th of February there was a dense fog, and they lost
sight of the Adventure. They fired several signals, but were not
answered, and they feared that a separation had taken place,
though they could not well tell what had been the cause of it.
Captain Cook had directed Captain Furneaux, in case of parting
company, to cruise three days in the place he last saw the
Resolution. Accordingly he made short boards, or tacks, and
fired half-hour guns till the afternoon of the _zth, when the weather
cleared up, but the Adventure was not to be seen in the limits of
their horizon. They lay to ull the roth, firing guns and burning
false fires at night, but neither heard nor saw anything of the
Adventure. The crew universally regretted the loss of the
Adventure, and constantly scanned the horizon with expressions
of concern that they were alone on this unexplored expanse.

On the 17th of March Captain Cook came to a resolution to

quit the high southern latitudes and to proceed to New Zealand,
to look for the Adventure and to refresh his people. As the wind,
which continued between the N. and W., would not permit them
to touch at Van Diemen’s Land, they shaped their course to New
Zealand ; and being under no apprehension of meeting with any
danger, the captain was not backward in carrying sail. For the
last three days the mercury in the thermometer had risen to
forty-six, and the weather was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees
of latitude had made a surprising difference in the temperature of
the air, which they hailed with satisfaction.

On the 26th they entered Dusky Bay, in New Zealand, but
THE SECOND VOVAGE. 155

with much caution, as they were all ignorant of its soundings,
Captain Cook in his former voyage having only discovered and
named it. After running about two leagues up the bay, and pass-
ing several of the isles which lay in it, they brought to and hoisted
out two boats, one of which was sent away with an officer round
a point on the port side to look for anchorage. This he found,
and signified the same by signal. They then followed with the
ship, and anchored in fifty fathoms of water, so near the shore as
to reach it with a hawser. All hands were delighted to be at rest
once more, after having been 117 days at sea, and having sailed
3,660 leagues, without so much as once seeing land.

Notwithstanding their long continuance at sea in a high
southern latitude, only one man on board was very ill with scurvy,
and his illness was principally aggravated by a bad habit of body,
and a complication of other disorders.

The country appeared beautiful and pleasing. The islands at
the entrance of Dusky Bay were shaded with evergreens and
covered with woods, and exhibited a delightful prospect. The
rocky shores were enlivened with flocks of aquatic birds, and the
whole country resounded with the wild notes of the feathered
songsters. They caught great numbers of fish, which eagerly took
the bait, and their first meal upon fish seemed the most delightful
they ever made. Their situation was admirable for obtaining
food and water. The ship’s yards were locked in the branches of
trees, and near their stern ran a delightful stream of fresh water.
They now made preparations on shore to set up the astronomer’s
observatory and the forge, for making all necessary observations
and repairing the ship. The live cattle remaining on board, con-
sisting of a few sheep and goats, would not taste the grass which
grew on the shore, and upon examination being made of these
poor creatures, it appeared that their teeth were loose, and that
they had other symptoms of an inveterate scurvy.

On the 28th some of the officers went on a shooting expedition
in a small boat, and discovering some of the inhabitants, returned
to acquaint ‘Captain Cook with the circumstance. Shortly after,
a canoe filled with natives came within musket-shot of the ship.
They remained for a short time, and then returned, though every
endeavour was used to induce them to approach nearer. Captain
156 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Cook, with several officers and gentlemen, went in search of them
the same day. They found the canoe hauled up on the shore,
where were several huts, with fireplaces and fishing-nets, but the
people had probably entered into the woods. After making a
short stay, they left in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses,
and other articles.

On the 1st of April they sent to see if the things left in the
canoe remained there, and they found them untouched. On the
following day they went ashore and took with them a black dog
they had brought from the Cape, who ran into the woods at the
first musket they fired, and would not return.

On the 6th_a shooting-party went out and found a capacious
cove, where they shot several ducks, on which account they
called it Duck Cove. They had an interview with one man and
two women. ‘The former stood upon the point of a rock, with a
club in his hand, and the women were behind him with spears.
As they approached, the man showed great signs of fear, but
stood firm, nor would he move to take up some things that were
thrown to him. His fears were all dissipated by Captain Cook
going up to embrace him ; and the captain gave him such things
as he had about him. The officers and seamen followed the
captain, and talked some time with them, though they could not
understand each other. The youngest of the women bore the
greatest share of the conversation.

On the following day they paid these natives another visit, and
presented them with several things; but they beheld everything
with indifference, except hatchets and spike-nails. They now saw
all the man’s family, as they supposed, which consisted of his two
wives, the young woman mentioned before, a boy about fourteen
years old, and three small children. The Englishmen were con-
ducted to their habitations, which consisted of two mean huts,
situated near the skirts of a wood. Their canoe lay in a small
creek near the huts, and was just large enough to transport the
whole family from place to place. A gentleman of the party made
sketches of them. On taking leave, the man presented Captain Cook
with some trifles, and a piece of cloth of their own manufacture, and
pointed to a boat cloak, which he wished to have. The hint was
taken, and one was ordered to be made for him of red baize.


NEW ZEALAND WOMAN AND BOY,



THE SECOND VOYAGE. 159



On the gth they paid another visit to the natives, who had their
hair combed and oiled, stuck with white feathers, and tied upon
the crowns of their heads, and bunches of feathers stuck in their
ears. They were received with great courtesy, and the man was
so well pleased with the present of the cloak, that he took his
patoo-patoo from his side, and gave it to Captain Cook.
canoe, but proceeded with caution as they approached the ship.
They could not be persuaded to come on board, but put ashore
in a little creek near them, and sat themselves down. Captain
Cook ordered the bagpipes to play and the drum to beat, the
latter of which interested them.

In the evening, the man and his daughter before mentioned
ventured on board the ship, while the rest of the family were fish-
ing ina canoe. Before the man would come into the ship, he
struck the side of it with a green branch and muttered some
words of a prayer; after which he threw away the branch and
came on board. They viewed every part of the cabin with ap-
parent curiosity and surprise, but it was not possible to fix their
attention to any one thing for amoment. All that was shown
them seemed beyond their comprehension, and the works of nature
and art were alike disregarded. The man appeared better pleased
with hatchets and spike-nails than anything the ship produced,
and when he had once got possession of these he would not quit
them. Captain Cook and three other gentlemen left the ship as
soon as they could disengage themselves from thevisitors, whom they
left in the gun-room, and went out in two boats to examine the head
of the bay, at which place they took up their night’s lodging.
The next day they continued their observations, and fired at some
ducks. Upon the report of the gun, the natives, who had not
discovered themselves before, set up a most hideous noise in
different places. The gentlemen hallooed in their turn, and
retreated to the boats. The natives did not follow them, but
still made a great noise. As the Englishmen continued shooting °
and making their observations, they frequently heard the natives
in the woods. A man and woman appeared at last on the banks
of the river, waving something in their hands as a token of friend-
ship. The gentlemen could not get near them, and the natives
160 COOK’S VOYAGES.

seeated 1 into the woods. Two others appeared; but as the
gentlemen advanced they retreated, and the woods afforded them
thick cover. The captain and his party passed the next night in the
same place, and after breakfast embarked to return on board;
but seeing two men on the opposite shore, who hallooed to them,
they were induced to row over to them. Captain Cook, with two
other gentlemen, landed unarmed, but the natives retreated, nor
would they stand still till Captain Cook went up alone. It was
with some difficulty that. he prevailed on one of them to lay down
his spear; at last he did so, and met the captain with a grass
plant in his hand, giving him one end to hold while he himself
held the other. In this position they stood while the natives
made a speech, which the captain did not understand, but returned
some sort of answer; they then saluted each other, and the native
took his coat from his back, and put it on the captain ; the captain
presented each of them with a hatchet and a knife, having nothing
else with him. They invited the gentlemen to their habitation,
and wanted them to eat, but the tide prevented their accepting
this invitation. More people appeared in the skirts of the woods,
but did not approach any nearer. The two natives accompanied
the gentlemen to their boats, but seemed very much agitated at
the appearance of the muskets, which they looked upon as instru-
ments of death, on account of the slaughter they had observed
among the fowls. It was necessary to watch them, for they laid
their hands on everything, except the muskets. They assisted
the seamen in launching the boat. It did not appear that they
had any boats or canoes with them, but used two or three logs of
wood tied together, which answered the same purposes ; for the
navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived, was not
very difficult, and swarmed with fish and fowls. Several parties
were made in order to catch seals, which were very useful for food
and oil, and their skins were cured for the rigging.

On Saturday, the 24th, Captain Cook took five geese and a
* gander, which were all that remained of those brought from the
Cape of Good Hope, and carried them to a cove, which on this
account he called Goose Cove; this was a convenient place for
them to breed, as they were not likely to be disturbed by the
inhabitants, and there was also plenty of food.
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 161

There are two entrances to Dusky Bay, and also numerous
anchoring-places, which are at once safe and commodious. At
Cascade Cove, so called on account of the magnificent cascade
near it, there is room for a fleet of ships, and a very good passage
in and out. The country is very mountainous, and the prospect
rude and craggy. The land bordering on the seacoast, and all
the neighbourhood, is covered with wood.

On Tuesday, the r1th of May, the ship again made sail. They
observed on a sudden a whitish spot on the sea, out of which a
column arose which looked like a glass tube. It appeared that
another of the same sort came down from the clouds to meet
this, and they made a coalition and formed what is called a water-
spout; several others were formed in the same manner soon
after. They were able to examine one within 200 fathoms of
them. ‘They first saw a portion of the sea in violent agitation ;
the water ascended in a spiral form towards the clouds, which
looked black and lowering, and some hailstones fell on board. A
cloud gradually tapered into a long slender tube directly over
the agitated spot, and seemed descending to meet the rising spiral,
and soon united with it. When the waterspout broke, no ex-
plosion was heard, but a flash of lightning was seen. The oldest
mariners on board had never been so near a waterspout before,
and were therefore very much alarmed. From the first appearance

to the last disjunction, was three-quarters of an hour,

‘At five o’clock in the morning, on the 18th of May, they opened
Queen _Charlotte’s Sound and saw three flashes arising from a
stronghold of the natives. Imagining them to be signals of the
Europeans, and probably of the Adventure, they fired some guns
and were answered, and in a short time saw the Adventure at
anchor. They were saluted by Captain Furneaux with thirteen
guns, which was joyfully returned ; the happiness at this welcome
meeting was indescribable.

Captain Furneaux gave the following account of his proceed-
ings during their separation. On Sunday, the 4th. _of February,
having lost sight of the Resolution in ‘a thick fog, they continued
to cruise in the place where they parted company. Soon after
their separation they heard the report of a gun, which they judged

to be on the larboard beam; upon which they hauled to the S.E.,
L
162 COOK’S VOYAGES.

and fired a 4-pounder every araieieer ae receiving no return,
they kept the course they had steered before the fog came on.
In the evening it began to blow hard, and the sea broke over the
ship’s bows to the height of the yard-arms, though at intervals the
weather was more clear, They stood to the westward, to cruise
in the latitude where they last saw the Resolution, according to
agreement, in case of separation; but the storm returned with
renew ed fury, and the weather being again exceedingly hazy, they
were compelled to bring to, which untoward circumstance pre-
vented them from reaching the intended place. However, they
cruised as near the spot as they could for three days, when, after
beating about the seas in the most terrible weather, they gave
up all hopes of joining their lost companions, and bore away for
winter quarters 1,400 Jeagues from them: having to traverse a
sea entirely unknown, they reduced the allowance of water to one
quart a day for each seaman.

On Monday, the 1st of March, it was determined to bear away
for Van Diemen’s Land, there to take in water and repair their
shattered rigging.

On Thursday, the 11th, they found a most commodious harbour,
and anchored in seven fathoms of water, about one mile from the
shore on each side. During their stay here they did not see any
of the natives, but perceived the smoke of their fires eight or ten
miles to the northward.

Having taken on board wood and water, they set sail, intending
to explore the coast, with a view of discovering whether Van
Diemen’s Land is a part of New Holland) th »

On the 24th, having left Van Diemen’s Land, they had a very
severe squall, and shipped many waves, one of which stove the
large cutter, and with much difficulty the small one was prevented
from being washed overboard. After this heavy gale, which con-
tinued twelve hours, they had more temperate weather, accom-
panied with calms. At length they made the coast of New Zealand,
having run twenty-four degrees of longitude in fifteen days.

On the gth of April three canoes came alongside the Adventure,
having fifteen Indians of both sexes, all armed with battle-axes, and
with other offensive weapons made of hard wood, about four feet
in length ; but they had neither bows nor arrows. A kind of net
















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































WAR-CANOES.,



THE SECOND VOYAGE. 165



was wrapped round their shoulders, and tied about their waists,
with a girdle made of grass. Both men and women exhibited a
savage appearance, and were very unwilling to venture on board.
The captain made them presents, and by signs invited them to
trade. They accepted the presents, and some of them gained
courage enough to trust themselves on deck. In this visit they
mentioned the name of Tupia, and upon being informed he died
at Batavia, some of them with much concern inquired if he was
killed, or died a natural death.

On Tuesday, the 11th of May, several of the crew who were at
work on shore very sensibly felt the shock of an earthquake. On
the following day, the weather continuing fair and the Indians
friendly, the captain and officers were preparing to go ashore,
when not less than ten canoes came paddling down the sound.
They counted 130 natives, all armed. When alongside of the
ship, they expressed a desire to be admitted on board, but Captain
Furneaux not liking their looks and gestures, gave orders that a
few only should be admitted at a time. These behaved so dis-
orderly that the sailors were obliged to turn them out, and it now
appeared plainly that their intentions were to make themselves
masters of the ship. However, finding the crew to be upon their
guard, they became more civil, but not before a great gun was
discharged over their heads, which intimidated them. Being thus
reduced to order, the people on board produced several articles,
such as beads, small clasp-knives, scissors, cloth, paper, and other
trifles, which they bartered for battle-axes, spears, weapons of
various sorts, fish-hooks, and other curiosities, the manufacture of
the country. Being visibly disappointed in the execution of their
grand design, they took to their canoes ; but, previous to their
departure, the captain and officers made presents to those among
them who appeared to be their chiefs, which they accepted with
great apparent satisfaction.

On the rzth they had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution off
the mouth of the Sound. Such is Captain Furneaux’s report of
his proceedings after parting with the Resolutzon.

The effects of the boisterous weather which they had experi-
enced in the course of the last few months were felt by the crew
of the Resolution, and it is astonishing that they should have con-
166 COOK’S VOYAGES.



tinued in perfect health, scarcely a man being so ill as to be in-
capable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of
Captain Cook than his paying particular attention to the preserva-
tion of health among his ship’s company. By observing the
strictest discipline from the highest to the lowest, his commands
were duly observed and punctually executed. When the service
was hard, he tempered the severity by frequent reliefs, while in
fine or settled weather he never suffered any of his men to be idle,
but constantly employed the armourers, carpenters, and seamen
in doing something, each in his own way, which, though not im-
mediately wanted, he knew might be required before the voyage
was completed.

The morning after their arrival, being Wednesday, the 19th,
Captain Cook went off at daybreak to gather scurvy grass, celery
and other vegetables. At breakfast time he returned with a boat-
load, enough for the crews of both ships, and knowing their
salutary efficacy in removing scorbutic complaints, he ordered
that they should be boiled with wheat and portable broth every
morning for breakfast, and with peas and broth for dinner.
Captain Furneaux had planted a great quantity of garden seeds,
which grew very well, and produced plenty of salad and European
greens.

Captain Cook sent on shore to the watering-place, near the
Adventure’s tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of those they
brought from the Cape of Good Hope. On the 2st they went
over to Long Island, where they sowed different kinds of garden
seeds, upon spots which were cleared for that purpose. On
Saturday, the_22nd, they found the ewe and ram dead, supposed
to have been occasioned by their eating some poisonous plants.
About noon they were visited by two small canoes, in which
were five men, who dined with them.

On Monday, the 24th, Captain Cook, accompanied by Captain
Furneaux and Mr. Foster, set off in a boat to the west bay on
a shooting excursion. They met a large canoe, in which were
fourteen or fifteen people, and the first question asked was
concerning the welfare of Tupia. Being told he was dead,
they expressed some concern.

On Saturday, the 29th, a great number of natives surrounded


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 167

the ship with canoes, and a brisk business was done, the sailors
being eager to acquire some of the productions of the country.
One of the Indians Captain Cook took to Mortuara, and
showed him some potatoes in a thriving condition, which were
planted by Mr. Fannen, master of the Adventure. The man was

so well pleased with them, that of his own accord he began to |

hoe up the earth round the plants. He was then conducted to
other plantations of turnips, carrots, and parsnips, of which it
was easy to give them an idea, by comparing them with such
roots as they were well acquainted with.

On Friday, the 4th of June, being his Majesty’s birthday, they
hoisted their colours, and prepared to celebrate the day with the

usual festivities. Early in the morning their friends brought them :

a large supply of fish. One of them promised to accompany the
ship on their voyage, but afterwards altered his mind, as did also
some others who had made a like promise to the captain of the
Adventure. It was very common for these people to bring their
children with them, not with the unnatural intention of selling
them, as was reported, but in the expectation that they would
make them presents. This day a large double canoe, containing
about fifty men, came within musket-shot. Among these new
visitors, one stood at the head of the canoe and another at the
stern, while the rest kept their seats; the former held a green
bough in his hand and spoke a few words, and the other made
a long harangue in solemn and well articulated sounds.
Being invited aboard, he at last ventured, and was followed
soon by the rest, who eagerly traded with the crew. They
saluted the natives already on board by rubbing noses, and
paid the same compliment to the gentlemen on the quarter-deck.
These people were taller than any hitherto seen in New Zealand,
and their dress and ornaments bespoke them superior to the in-
habitants of Queen Charlotte’s Sound. Their tools were made
with great attention and were elegantly carved ; a few of these
were obtained, and also some musical instruments. They made
but a short stay, and embarking, all went over to Mortuara, where,
by the help of glasses, four or five canoes were discovered,
and several people on the shore. About noon, Captain Cook,
accompanied by several other gentlemen, followed them, and was
hs

Pe

168 COOK’S VOYAGES.

received with every mark of friendship. ‘The captain distributed
several presents, among which were a number of brass medals,
inscribed with the king’s title on one side and the ship which
undertook this voyage on the other. Captain Cook conducted
Teiratu, the chief, to the garden he had planted, and obtained a
promise from him that he would not suffer it to be destroyed.

Early on the morning of the 7th of June the ships sailed from
this place, but met with contrary winds. Captain Cook having
heard that the crew of the Adventure were sickly, went on board
on the 29th of July, when he found the cook dead, and twenty
men ill with the scurvy and flux. Only three men were on the sick
list on board the Resolution, which was certainly owing to the
captain’s absolutely enforcing the eating of celery and scurvy
grass with the food, though at first the crew did not like it.

All hopes of discovering a continent now vanished, as they had
got to the northward of Captain Carteret’s tracks, and they only
expected to see islands till their return to the south.

On the 6th_of August Captain Furneaux came on board the
Resolution to dinner, and reported that his people were much
better ; that the flux had quite left them, and that the scurvy was
at a stand.

On the 18th they were within a league of Qtaheite. On
account of the breeze failing, they hoisted out the boats to tow
the ships. Many inhabitants came on board from different parts,
bringing fruits to exchange. Most of them knew Captain Cook
again, and inquired for Mr. Banks and others; but none of them
asked for Tupia. Their situation now became very dangerous
from a coral reef. On sending to examine the western point of
the reef, in order to get round that way into the bay, they found
that there was not sufficient depth of water. Both ships were
carried with great impetuosity towards the reef, and the breakers
were not two cables’ length distant, and no bottom to anchor.
The fesolution came to three fathoms water, and struck at every
fall of the sea, but the Adventiwre brought up without striking.

At length they found ground, and now got the ship afloat by
cutting away the bower anchor. They first towed off the Resolu-
tion, and then all the boats were ordered to assist the Adventure,
and they happily got once more safe to sea, after narrowly escap-


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 169



ing shipwreck. A number of the natives were on board the ships
while in this perilous situation, but were totally insensible of any
danger, even while the ships were striking. They anchored in
Oati-piha Bay, very near the shore, and were visited by a great
number of the natives. Presents were made to their chiefs, of
shirts, axes, and other articles, in return for which they promised
hogs and fowls. In the afternoon Captains Cook and Furneaux
landed to sound the disposition of the natives and to view the
watering-place. The natives behaved with great civility, and they
found a very convenient supply of water.

A man who pretended to be a chief came on board, with
several of his friends, to whom presents were made, but he was
detected in handing several things over the quarter gallery ; and
as complaints of the same nature were alleged against those on
the deck, Captain Cook turned them all out of the ship, and was
so exasperated at the conduct of the pretended chief that he fired
two muskets over his head, which terrified him so much that he
jumped into the water. On sending a boat to take up the canoe,
the people from the shore pelted the seamen with stones. The
captain went himself in another boat to protect her, and also
ordered a cannon loaded with round shot to be fired along the
coast, which so greatly terrified them that he brought away the
canoes without any further opposition. However, they soon
became friends again, and the canoes were returned. ‘Two or
three natives began to inquire after Tupia, but they were soon
satisfied when they heard the cause of his death. Several people
also asked for Mr. Banks and others who were at Otaheite with
Captain Cook before. It appeared that there had been a battle
lately fought between the two kingdoms; that Tootahah,. the
regent of the greater peninsula, was slain, and that Otoo, reigned
in his stead. In this battle Tubourai Tamaide. and several of
their old friends fell. A peace was now fully established.

On the sgth the two commanders made an excursion along the
coast, and were entertained by a chief with some excellent fish, to
whom, in return, they. made several presents. On the following
day one of the natives stole a gun from the people on shore, upon
which some of his countrymen pursued him of their own accord,
knocked him down, and brought back the musket. On the 21st
170 COOK’S VOYAGES.

a chief paid them a visit, and brought a present of fruit, which
proved to be some cocoa-nuts that had been thrown overboard.
He did not betray the least emotion when they told him of it, and
opened two or three of them himself, as if he knew nothing of the
matter; he then pretended to be satisfied that it really was so,
and went on shore, from whence he sent some bananas and plan-
tains. They were informed that Waheatow was come into the
neighbourhood, and wished to see Captain Cook, who accordingly
went in company with Captain Furneaux and some gentlemen,
many natives likewise accompanying them. About a mile from
the landing-place they met the chief advancing towards them with
a numerous train. He knew Captain Cook very well, as they had
seen cach other several times in 1769, when he went by the name
of Terace. As soon as the usual salutation was over, he seated
Captain Cook on a stool with himself, the rest seating themselves
on the ground. He inquired after several who had been on the
former voyage, and seemed sorry when told that they must sail on
the next day, assuring the captain, if he would stay, that he should
have hogs in plenty. Captain Cook made him many presents,
and remained with him the whole morning. The party returned
on board ship to dinner, and made this chief another visit in the
afternoon, when more presents were exchanged.

Early on the morning of the 24th the ships put to sea, and were
accompanied by several canoes, who brought cargoes of fruit for
sale, which were readily disposed of. The sick people on board
the Adventure got much relief from these fruits. A lieutenant
was left on shore, in order to bring some hogs, which they pro-
mised to send by him. He returned on the 25th, and brought
eight pigs with him. They arrived at Matavia Bay in the evening
of the 25th, and before they could anchor, their decks were
crowded with natives, almost all of whom were acquainted with
Captain Cook, QOtoo, their king, and a great crowd, being as-
sembled on the shore. Captain Cook had intended to pay him a
visit, but was told that he was gone to Oparee in a fright, which
surprised the captain, as all others were much pleased to see him.
Maritata, a chief, was on board, and advised the captain to defer
his visit till the next morning. Accordingly, on the 26th, Captain
Cook, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Maritata, his wife, and




























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































TAHITI.

THE SECOND VOYAGE. 173

some others, set out for Oparee, after having given directions to
fetch tents for the reception of the sick. On landing they were
conducted to Otoo, who sat on the ground under a shady tree,
with a great number of people round him. After the usual com-
pliments had passed, Captain Cook made him several presents,
being persuaded that it was much to his interest to be on good
terms with this chief, and presents were also made to his at-
tendants. They offered cloth in return, which was refused, and
they were told that the presents were given purely out of friend-
ship.

Otoo inquired for all the gentlemen who had been there before,
as well as for Tupia, and promised to send some hogs on board,
but was very backward in offering to come on board himself, be-
ing, as he said, much afraid of the great guns. He was certainly
a most timid prince, as all his actions demonstrated. He was a
well-made man, six feet high, and about thirty years of age. His
father and all his subjects were uncovered before him ; that is,
their heads and shoulders were made bare.

On the 27th, King Otoo, attended by a numerous train, re-
turned the visit. He sent before him two large fish, a hog, some
fruits, and a large quantity of cloth. After much persuasion he
came on board himself, accompanied by his sisters, a younger
brother, and many attendants ; and after breakfasting, they were
carried home by their attendants. Upon landing, an old lady,
the mother of Tootahah, met Captain Cook, seized him by both
hands, and weeping bitterly, told him that her son and his friend,
‘Tootahah, was dead. Had not they taken her from Captain
Cook, he must have joined her lamentations. It was with a good
deal of difficulty that the captain prevailed on the king to let him
see her again, when he made her some presents. Captain Fur-
neaux gave the king a male and a female goat. A lieutenant was
sent to Attahouru, on the 28th, to purchase hogs. The king,
with his sister and some attendants, paid them another visit soon
after sunrise, and brought with them a hog, some fruit, and some
more cloth. They likewise went on board the Adventure, and
made Captain Furneaux the same presents ; soon after they re-
turned, bringing Captain Furneaux with them. Captain Cook
made them a good return for the presents they brought, and
174 COOK’S VOYAGES.





dressed out the king’s sister to the greatest advantage. The king
was carried again to Oparee, and on leaving the ship was enter-
tained with bagpipes and the seamen dancing. Some of his
people danced also, in imitation of the seamen, and performed
their parts tolerably well. Tootahah’s mother again presented
herself to Captain Cook, but could not look upon him without
shedding many tears.

On the 29th the commanders took a trip to Oparee, attended
by some officers and géntlemen, and made the king such presents
as he had not before seen. One of them was a broadsword, at
the sight of which he was very much intimidated, and desired it
might be taken out of his sight. With a vast deal of argument he
was prevailed upon to suffer it to be put on his side, where it re-
mained a very short time. They received an invitation to the
theatre, where they were entertained with a dramatic piece, con-
sisting of a comedy and dance. They could not make out the
subjects, though they heard frequent mention of Captain Cook’s
name in the dialogue. The performers were one woman, being
no less a personage than the king’s sister, and five men, and their
music consisted of only three drums. The whole entertainment
was well conducted, and lasted about two hours. When this
diversion was over the king desired them to depart, and loaded
them with fruit and fish.

In the evening of the goth they were alarmed with the cry of
murder on the shore. Captain Cook suspected it was occasioned
by some of his own people, and sent on shore an armed boat’s
crew, who soon returned with a seaman and three marines;
others, who belonged to the Adventure, were also taken, and put
in close confinement till the morning, when they were severely
punished. The people would confess nothing, and it did not ap-
' pear that any material injury had been done. The alarm, how-
ever, was so great that the natives fled from their habitations in
the night, and the inhabitants of the whole coast were terrified.
The king himself fled from his abode, and when Captain Cook
saw him he complained of the disturbance. As this was his last
visit, Captain Cook presented the king with three Cape sheep,
with which he was well pleased, though they were all wethers ;
and in return he presented the captain with three hogs. The


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 175

king seemed much affected when Captain Cook told him he
should leave the island on the following day, and embraced him
several times.

Attahounou) came with his wife to pay Captain Cook a visit, and
made him a present of two hogs and some fish. As the wind was
westerly, they were obliged to dismiss their friends sooner than
they wished ; but they were well satisfied with the reception they
met with. A young man named Poreo came on board some
hours before they got under weigh, and desired to go with them,
to which they consented ; at his request an axe anda spike-nail
were presented to his father, who came on board with him, but as
they parted with great indifference it was suspected that no such
relationship existed. Presently, a canoe conducted by two men
came alongside and demanded Poreo in the name of Otoo. The
artifice was now manifest, and they were required first to return
the hatchet and spike-nail, but as these were ashore, he was
carried away shedding tears, as he saw the land disappear.

On the znd_they steered for the island of Huaheine, and on the
following day the Resolution anchored in twenty-four fathoms of
water. The Adventure ran ashore on the north side of the
channel, but was got off again without receiving any damage.
The natives received them with the utmost cordiality, and several
came on board. Some presents were distributed among them,
which were returned by a plentiful supply of hogs and fruit.
Captain Cook was informed that Oree was still alive, and was
anxious to see him. The commanders, with Mr. Foster, went to
the place appointed for the interview, accompanied by one of the
natives ; the boat was landed before the chief’s house, and they
were desired to remain in it till the necessary ceremony was gone
through. There stood, close to the shore, five young plantain
trees, their emblems of peace ; these were, with some ceremony,
brought on board separately. The first three were each accom-
panied by a young pig, whose ears were ornamented with cocoa-
nut fibres ; the fourth plantain tree was accompanied by a dog :
all these had particular names and meanings. The chief had
carefully preserved, and now sent on board, a piece of pewter,
with an inscription on it, which Captain Cook had presented to
176 COOK’S VOYAGES.



him in 1769, together with a piece of counterfeit English coin,
‘which, with a few beads, were all in the same bag the captain
_ made for them. This part of the ceremony being over, the

gentlemen were desired to decorate three young plantain trees
with nails, looking-glasses, beads, and medals. With these in
their hands they landed, and the plantains were laid, one by one,
before him. They were told that one was for God, another for
the king, and the third for friendship. This being done, the king
came to Captain Cook, fell on his neck, and kissed him, tears
rolling down the cheeks of the old man. Captain Cook regarded
him as a father, and therefore presented him with the most
valuable articles he had, ptesents being also given to his at-
tendants and friends. The king gave the captain a hog and a
quantity of cloth, with the promise that all his wants should be
supplied. Soon after they returned on board fourteen hogs were
sent, with fowls and fruit in abundance. In the morning of the
sth they were visited by this old man, who brought a hog, and
some fruit and roots in great plenty. This morning Lieutenant
Pickersgill went on shore in search of more hogs, and returned in
the evening with twenty-eight, and about seventy more were pur-
chased on shore.

On the 6th_of September the trading party, consisting of three
people, went on shore, as usual. Captain Cook also landed after
breakfast, and learnt that one of the natives had been very in-
solent and troublesome. This man was shown to the captain,
equipped in his war habit, and with a club in each hand. The
captain took these from him, as he saw that he was bent on mis-
chief; broke them before his face, and obliged him to retire.
The captain being informed that this man was a chief, became a
little suspicious of him, and sent for a guard. About this time a
gentleman, who had gone out botanising alone, was assaulted by
two men, who stripped him of everything but his trousers; luckily,
they did no harm, though they strick him several times with his
own hanger, or short sword. They then made off, and a native
brought a bit of cloth to cover him. This gentleman presently
appeared at the trading-place, where a number of the natives were
assembled, who all fled on seeing him. Captain Cook persuaded
some of them to return, assuring them that none should suffer
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 177

who were innocent. When the king heard his complaint he and
his companions wept bitterly; and as soon as his grief was
assuaged he made a long harangue to the people, telling them the
baseness of such actions, when the captain and his crew had
always behaved so well to them. He then took a particular
account of the things the gentleman had lost, and promised that
they should be returned, if it was in his power to find them.
After this he desired Captain Cook to follow him to the boat, but
‘the people, being apprehensive for his safety, used every argu-
ment, with tears, to dissuade him from it. Oree was deaf to them
all, and insisted on going with the captain ; wheri they were both
in the boat he desired it might be put off. The only person who
did not oppose his going was his sister, and she showed a magna-
nimity of spirit equal to her brother. They proceeded in search
of the robbers, as far as was convenient by water, and then
landed. The chief led the way, travelled several miles, and was
with great difficulty dissuaded from proceeding farther by Captain
Cook. On returning to the boat they were met by the king’s
sister, who had travelled overland to that place, accompanied by
several other persons. They returned to the ship, and the king
made a very hearty dinner, though his sister, according to custom,
ate nothing. The captain made them suitable presents for their
confidence, and set them ashore amidst the acclamations of mul-
titudes. Peace was now perfectly re-established ; provisions
poured in from all quarters; the gentleman’s hanger and coat
were returned, and thus ended these troublesome transactions.
On the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, Captain Cook
went to take leave of Oree, and presented him with some valuable
and useful articles. He left with him a copper plate, with this in-
scription :—‘ Anchored. here, His Britannic Majesty’s ships fe-
solution and Adventure, September, 1773.” After they had traded
for such things as they wanted they took their leave. On return-
ing to the ships they were surrounded by canoes filled with hogs,
fowls, and fruit. The good old king stayed with them till they
were nearly two miles out at sea, and then bade them farewell,
after taking an affectionate leave. During their stay here they
procured upwards of 300 hogs, besides fowls and fruit in abundance.

At this island Captain Furneaux engaged a young man, named
M
178 COOK'S VOYAGES.

Omai, a native of Ulietea, who had been dispossessed of his pro-
perty by the people of Bolabola, to accompany him on his voyage.
On his arrival in England he was presented to the king by the
First Lord of the Admiralty, and his history is connected with the
future proceedings of the voyagers. This young man was well-
conducted, and appeared to possess a good understanding and
honest principles.

On the 8th.of September they anchored at Ulietea, and a trade
soon commenced with the natives. Next morning they paid a
formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the isle, carrying with
them the necessary presents. He was seated in his own house,
which stood near the water-side, where he and his friends received
them with great cordiality.

He expressed much satisfaction at seeing Captain Cook again,
and desired that they might exchange names, which he accordingly
agreed to. This is the strongest mark of friendship these people
can show to a stranger. After they had made the chief and his

riends the necessary presents they went on board, with a hog and
some fruit, received from him in return.

After breakfast on the roth, Captain Cook and Captain Fur-
neaux paid the chief a visit, and were entertained by the per-
formance of a comedy. The music consisted of three drums;
the actors were seven men and one woman—the chief’s daughter.
The only entertaining part of the drama was a theft, committed
by a man and his accomplice in such a masterly manner as
sufficiently displayed the genius of the people in this vice. Cap-
tain Cook says, “I was very attentive to the whole of this part,
being in full expectation that it would have ended very differently ;
for I had before been informed that Teto (that is, the thief) was
to be acted, and had understood that the thief was to be punished
with death, or a good tipparrahying (or beating), a punishment,
we are told, they inflict on such as are guilty of this crime. Be
this as it may, strangers are certainly excluded from the protection
of this law ; them they rob with impunity, on every occasion that
offers.”

On the z6th Captain Cook was told that his Otaheitean young
man, Poreo, had taken a resolution to leave him, and was actually
gone ; having met with a young woman for whom he had con-










































































































































































































































































































































































































































OREE EMBRACING CAPTAIN COOK,
THE SECOND VOVAGE. 181

tracted a friendship, he went away with her, and they saw him no
more.

Having now secured a large supply of provisions, the captain
determined to put to sea on the following morning, and informed
the chief, who promised to see him again before he departed.
As soon as it was light, Oreo, with his son and some of his friends,
came on board. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs,
the latter they even begged of them to take from them, calling
out, “I am your friend ; take my hog and give me an axe.” But
the decks were already so full of them that they could hardly
move, having between 300 and 400 on board both ships.

The chief and his friends did not leave them till they were
under sail, and pressed them much to return soon. Many young
men of this island voluntarily offered to accompany Captain Cook,
who consented to take with him one about seventeen or eighteen
years old, named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near re-
lation of Opoony, chief of that island.

The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768,
swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill-supplied with these
animals, that hardly anything could induce the owners to part
with them.

As Captain Cook had some reason to believe that amongst the
religious customs of these people human sacrifices were some-
times considered as necessary, he went one day to a morai in
Matavia, in company with Captain Furneaux, having with them,
as they had upon all other occasions; one of their own men, who
spoke their language tolerably well, and several of the natives,
one of whom appeared to be an intelligent sensible man. In the
morai was a tupapow, on which lay a corpse and some viands.

Omai subsequently informed him that they offer human sacri-
fices to the Supreme Being. According to his account, the men
are selected for sacrifice according to the caprice of the high priest,
who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires
alone into the house of their god, and stays there some time.
When he comes out, he informs them that he has seen and con-
versed with their great god, and that he asked for a human sacri-
fice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a
man present, who most probably the priest has an antipathy
182 COOK’S VOYAGES.

against. He is immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the
priest’s resentment, who, no doubt, if necessary, has address
enough to persuade the people that he was a bad man.

After leaving Ulietea on the 17th of September, 1773, they
steered to the west, and, on the 1st of October, saw the island of
Middleburgh. As they approached the shore, the canoes came
boldly alongside, and some of the natives entered the ship with-
out hesitation. This mark of confidence gave Captain Cook a
good opinion of these islanders, and determined him to visit them
if possible. They found good anchorage, and came-to in twenty-
five fathoms of water. They had scarcely anchored, before they
were surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who
began to traffic. Among them was a chief, named Tioony, to
whom the captain made a present of a hatchet, spike-nail, and
several other articles, with which he was highly pleased.

Soon after a party of Englishmen embarked in two boats, in
company with Tioony, who conducted them to a little creek
formed by the rocks, right abreast of the ships, where landing was
extremely easy, and the boat secure against the surf. Here they
found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed them on
shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as
a stick or any other weapon in his hand, an indubitable sign of
their pacific intentions; they thronged so thick round the boats
with cloth and matting, to exchange for nails, that it was some
time before they could find room to land. Many who could not

‘get near the boats, threw into them, over the others’ heads, whole

bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking or waiting
to get anything in return. The chief conducted them to his
house, about three hundred yards from the sea, at the head of
a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The
situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the
ships at anchor; in the rear, and on each side, were plantations
in which were some of the richest productions of nature; the
floor was laid with mats, to which they were conducted, and the
people seated themselves in a circle round them on the outside.
Having brought the bagpipes, Captain Cook ordered them to be
played, and in return the chief directed three young women to
sing a song, which they did with a very good grace; and having
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 183

made each of them a present, this immediately set all the women
in acircle singing. Their songs were musical and harmonious.
Bananas and cocoa-nuts were set before the Englishmen, and a
bowl of ‘liquor, prepared in their presence, of the juice of eava,
for them to drink. But Captain Cook was the only one who
tasted it, the manner of brewing having quenched the thirst of
everyone else. The bowl was, however, soon emptied of its con-
tents by the natives.

They returned on board to dinner, accompanied by the chief.
He sat at a table, but ate nothing, though one of the dishes was
roasted pork. Near some of the houses, and in the lanes that
divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very
large fowls, which were the only domestic animals they saw ; and
as they did not seem willing to part with them, Captain Cook
determined to leave the place.

In the evening they returned on board, highly delighted with
the country and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants,
who seemed to vie with each other in doing what they thought
would give pleasure. After making the chiet a present, consisting
of various articles and an assortment of garden seeds, Captain
Cook gave him to understand that they were going away, at which
he seemed unconcerned. As soon as the captain was on board,
they made sail down to Amsterdam. On opening the west side
of the isle, they were met by several canoes, each containing
three or four men. They came boldly alongside, presented the
sailors with some eava root, and then came on board without
further ceremony, inviting them by all the friendly signs they
could make, to go to their island, pointing to the place where they
should anchor.

Having secured the ships, Captain Cook, accompanied by
Captain Furneaux, Mr. Foster, and several of the officers, landed,
together with a chief named Attago, a person of some note, who
had attached himself to Captain Cook the instant he came on
board.

After walking a little way into the country, they returned to tue
landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laughable though
unpleasant predicament. The boats which brought them on
shore not being able to get near the landing-place for want of a
184 COOK’S VOYAGES.

sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and stockings, to
walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land he placed them
at his feet to put on again; but they were instantly snatched away
by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd.
It was impossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the
sharp coral rocks which cover the shore, without having his feet
cut to pieces. The boat had put back to the ship, and his com-
panions having made their way through the crowd, he had been
left alone in this condition. ‘he chief soon found out the thief,
and recovered his shoes and stockings, and of his own accord
conducted his visitors to a plantation hard by, and showed them
a pool of fresh water.

Mr. Foster and his party spent the day in the country botanising,
and several of the officers went out shooting. All of them were
very civilly treated by the natives. A boat from each ship was
employed trading on shore, and bringing off their cargoes as soon
as they were laden, which was generally in a short time. By this
method they got at a cheaper rate and with less trouble a good
quantity of fruit, as well as other provisions, from people who had
no canoes to carry them off to the ships.

Though the natives began to show a propensity for pilfering,
the different trading parties were so successful as to procure for
both ships a tolerably good supply of provisions. Captain Cook
now gave every one leave to purchase what curiosities they pleased,
and their eagerness was so great as to excite the ridicule of the
natives, who offered pieces of sticks and stones to exchange.

One of the natives, having got into the master’s cabin, took out
some books and other things. He was discovered just as he was
getting into his canoe, and pursued by one of their boats, which
obliged him to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people
in the boat made several attempts to lay hold of him, but he as
often dived under the boat, and at last, unshipping the rudder,
got clear off. Some other very daring thefts were committed at
the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman’s jacket out of the
boat and carried it off in spite of all the people in her. The rest
of the natives, who were very numerous, took very little notice of
the whole transaction, nor were they the least alarmed when the
man was fired at.




























































































+ — aa
HOUSE OF WORSHIP; HUANEINE.

THE SECOND VOYAGE. 187



Attago visited Captain Cook again the next morning, and
brought with him a hog, and assisted him in purchasing several
more. This day the captain was told by the officers who were on
shore that a far greater man than any they had yet seen was come
to pay them a visit. Mr. Pickersgill informed them that he had
seen him in the country, and found that he was a man of con-
sequence, by the extraordinary respect paid to him by the people.
Some, when they approached him, fell on their faces, and put
their heads between their feet ; and no one durst pass him without
permission. The captain found him seated near the landing-
place, with so much sullen and stupid gravity, that, notwithstanding
what had been told him, he really took him for an idiot, whom
the people, from some superstitious notions, were ready to worship.
He saluted, and spoke to him; but he neither answered nor did
he alter a single feature in his countenance. This confirmed him
in his opinion, and he was just going to leave him, when one of
the natives undertook to undeceive him ; which he did in such a
manner as left no room to doubt that he was the king, or prin-
cipal man in the ‘sland. Accordingly he made him a present,
which consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red cloth, a looking-
glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these things,
or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid by him,
without either losing his gravity, speaking one word, or turning
his head either to the right or left ; sitting thus like a statue, he
was left by the Englishmen, who returned on board, when he
soon after retired. The captain had not been long on board
before word was brought that a quantity of provisions had come
from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from the shore ; and
it was found to consist of twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour
bread, and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds’
weight. The bearers said it was a present from the areeke, that
is, the king of the island, to the areeke of the ship. After this,
they could no longer doubt the dignity of this sullen chief, whose
name was Kohaghee-too-Fallangou.

The captain again went on shore and made this great man a
suitable present, and immediately prepared for quitting the place.
At ten o’clock they weighed anchor. The supplies they got at
this isle were about 150 pigs, twice that number of fowls, as many
188 COOK’S VOYAGES.

bananas and cocoa-nuts as they could find room for, with a few
yams, and had the stay been longer, they, no doubt, might have
obtained a great deal more.

These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman in
1642-3, and were called by him Amsterdam_ and_Middleburgh ;
‘but the former is called by the natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, the latter,
Ea-oo-wee._

~The produce and cultivation of Middleburgh and Amsterdam
are the same, with this difference, that a part only of the former
is cultivated. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling are laid
out in so judicious a manner as to open a free and easy com-
munication from one part of the island to the other. There are no
towns or villages ; most of the houses are built in the plantations,
with no other order than what convenience requires. They have
little areas before most of them, which are generally planted
yound with trees, or ornamental shrubs, whose fragrant perfumes
fill the air; their household furniture consists of a few wooden
platters, cocoa-nut shells, and some wooden pillars, shaped like
fourfooted stools or forms. Their ordinary clothing, with the
addition of a mat, serves for bedding.

They saw no other domestic animals amongst them except hogs
and fowls. The former are similar to those in neighbouring
islands, but the latter are far superior, being as large as any we
have in Europe, and their flesh equally good, if not better. The
land birds are numerous.

The construction and make of their canoes, in point of neatness
and workmanship, exceed everything of the kind seen in this sea.
‘They are built of several pieces sewed together with bandage in
so neat a manner that on the outside it is difficult to see the
joints. All the fastenings are inside, and pass through kants or
ridges, which are wrought on the edges and ends of the several
boards, which compose the vessel, for that purpose. At each end
is a kind of deck, one-third part of the whole length, and open in
the middle. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are
‘sometimes navigated with sails, but more generally with paddles.
‘The two vessels which compose the double canoe are each about
60 or 70 feet long, and 4 or 5 feet broad in the middle, and each
end terminates nearly in a point. Thus the body, or hull, differs
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 189:

a little in construction from the single canoe, but is put together
exactly in the same manner.

All parts which compose the double canoe are made as strong
and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be im-
merged in water to the very platform without being in danger of
filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstances whatever,.
for them to sink as long as they hold together, thus fitting them:
for distant navigation. They are rigged with one mast and a
latteen, or triangular sail, extended by a long yard, which is a
little bent. The sail is made of mats, the rope they make use of
is laid ‘exactly like those of Europe, and some of it is four or five
inch. On the platform is built a little shed or hut, which screens
the crew from the sea and weather, and serves for other pur-
poses.

Their working tools are made of stone, bones, and shells. ‘The
Englishmen were struck with admiration at the ingenuity and
patience of the workmen. Their knowledge of the utility of iron
was no more than sufficient to teach them to prefer nails to
beads and such trifles; some, but few, would exchange a pig
for a large nail or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, and even
rags were in more esteem than the best edgetool. ‘The only
piece of iron amongst them was a small brad-awl, which had
been made of a nail.

Both men and women are of ordinary stature, and their colour
isa lightish copper. They have fine eyes, and in general good
teeth, even to an advanced age. The men are tattooed from the
middle of the thigh to above the hips. The women have it only
on their arms and fingers, and there but slightly. The dress of
both sexes consists of a piece of cloth or matting wrapped round
the waist, from whence upwards they are generally naked ; and
it seemed to be a custom to anoint these parts every morning.

Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones,
shells, and beads of mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell, which are
worn by both sexes. They make various sorts of matting, some
of a very fine texture, which is generally used for clothing, and
the thick or stronger sort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for
canoes. Among other useful utensils, they have various sorts of
baskets; some made of the same material as their mats, and
190 COOK’S VOYAGES.



others of the twisted fibres of cocoa-nuts. These are not only
durable but beautiful, being generally composed of different
colours and studded with beads made of shells or bones.

The women frequently entertain them with songs, keeping
time by snapping the fingers. Not only their voices, but their
music was very harmonious, and they have a considerable com-
pass in their notes. The common method of saluting one
another is by touching or meeting noses, as is done in New
Zealand ; and their sign of peace to strangers is the displaying a
white flag or flags. From their unsuspicious manner of coming
on board, it appears that they are seldom disturbed by foreign or
domestic troubles. They are moreover not unprovided with
very formidable weapons, such as clubs and spears made of hard
wood, also bows and arrows. They have a singular custom of
putting everything you give them to their heads by way of thanks.
Very often the women would take hold of Captain Cook’s hand,
kiss it, and lift it to their heads.

It was observed that the greater part of the people, both men
and women, had lost one or both of their little fingers. It was
neither peculiar to rank, age, nor sex; nor is it done at any
certain age, as there were people of all ages on whom the amputa-
tion had been just performed, and, except some young children,
there were few who had both hands perfect. As it was
more common among the aged than the young, some were of
opinion that it was occasioned by the death of their parents, or
some other near relation. They also burn or make incisions in
their cheeks, near the cheek-bone. They all appeared healthy,
strong, and vigorous; a proof of the salubrity of the climate in
which they live.

Leaving these islands, the ships made sail to the southward, as
it was Captain Cook’s intention to proceed directly to Queen
Charlotte’s_Sound, in New Zealand, there to take in wood and
water, and then to continue exploring to the south and east. He
was desirous of having some intercourse with the natives of this
country, about Poverty and Tolaga Bays, where he apprehended
they were more civilised than at Queen Charlotte’s Sound, in
order to give them some hogs, fowls, seeds and roots, which he
had provided for the purpose.
THE SECOND VOYAGE. IgI

They arrived on the 2rst, and passing Cape Kidnappers, saw
some canoes put off from the shore. Upon this they lay-to, in
order to give them time to come on board. Those in the first
canoe, which came alongside, were fishermen, and exchanged
some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next were two
men, who, by their dress and behaviour, seemed to be chiefs.
These were easily prevailed upon to come on board, when they
were presented with nails and other articles. The former they
seized with such eagerness, as plainly showed they were the most
highly prized. To the principal of these men Captain Cook gave
the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. At first he did not think they
were intended for him, and took very little notice of them, till
he was satisfied they were for himself; nor was he then in such
raptures as when Captain Cook gave him a spike-nail half the
length of his arm. However, on his going away, the captain ob-
served that he took care to have them all collected together, and
kept a watchful eye over them, lest any should be taken away.
He made a promise not to kill any pigs, and if he kept his word,
and proper care was taken of them, there were enough to stock
the whole island in due time. The seeds were wheat, French and
kidney beans, peas, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips,
and yams. It was evident these people had not forgot the
Endeavour being on their coast, for the first words they spoke
were, “We are afraid of the great guns.” As they could not be
strangers to the affair of Cape Kidnappers, in the former voyage,
experience had taught them to have sound dread of these instru-
ments of death.

They now sailed for the southward, and for two days were
beating up against a hard gale. When they arrived just in sight
of port they had the mortification to be driven off from the land
by a furious storm.

They continued to battle against tempestuous weather till the
goth, when they lost sight of the Adventure. In the afternoon
the gale abated. Captain Cook now regretted her absence, for
had she been with him he would have given up all thoughts of
going to Queen Charlotte’s Sound to wood and water, and have
sought for a place further south, as the wind was now favourable
for ranging along the coast. As they approached the land they
192 COOK’S VOYAGES.



saw smoke in several places along the shore, a sure sign that the
coast was inhabited. They continued to stand to the eastward
all night, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure in the morning,
but in this they were disappointed, and soon encountered another
storm.

After a succession of calms and brisk gales, in tracing the coast
they discovered, on the east side of Cape Teerawhitte, a new in-
let they had never observed before, into which they entered and
cast anchor. Soon after they had brought-to, several of the
natives came off in their canoes, two from one shore and one from
the other. It required but little address to get three or four of
them on board. These people were extravagantly fond of nails
above every other thing. To one man the captain gave two cocks
and two hens, which he received with so much indifference as
gave little hopes that he would take proper care of them. They
had not been at anchor here above two hours when the wind
veered to the N.E., upon which they weighed and steered for the
Sound, where they arrived just at dark, with most of their sails
split.

The next morning, the 3rd of November, the gale abated, and
was succeeded by a few hours’ calm ; after that a breeze sprang
up from the N.W., with which they weighed and ran. up into
Ship Cove, where they did not find the Adventure, as was €Xx-
pected.

Here they saw the youngest of the two sows Captain Furneaux
had put on shore in Cannibal Cove when they were last here. It
was lame of one of its hind legs, otherwise in good case and very
tame. If they understood these people right, the boar and other
sow were also taken away and separated, but not killed. The
two goats had been killed. ‘Thus all their endeavours to stock
this country with useful animals were on the point of being
frustrated by the very people they meant to serve. The gardens
had fared somewhat better. Everything in them, except the
potatoes, had been left entirely to nature, who had acted her part
so well that most articles were in a flourishing state, a proof that
the winter must have been mild. The potatoes had most of them
been dug up ; some, however, still remained and were growing.

Next morning Captain Cook sent over to the cove, where the
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 193



natives resided, to haul the seine, and took with him a boar and
a young sow, two cocks and two hens they had brought from the
isles. These he gave to the natives, being persuaded they would
take care of them, by their having kept Captain Furneaux’s sow
near five months. When they were purchasing fish from these
people, they showed a great inclination to pick pockets, and to
take away the fish with one hand which they had just sold or
bartered with the cther,

This evil one of the chiefs undertook to remove, and with fury
in his eyes pretended to kcep the people at a proper distance.
The captain says, “I applauded his conduct, but kept-so good a
look-out as to detect him in picking my pocket of a handkerchief,
which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed to know
anything of the matter, and then told him what I had lost. He
seemed quite innocent and ignorant till I took it from him, and
then he put it off with a laugh, acting his part with so much
address that it was hardly possible for me to be angry with him ;
so we remained good friends, and he accompanied me on board
to dinner.” About this time they were visited by several strangers
in four or five canoes. These new comers took up their quarters
in a cove near the tents; but very early in the morning moved off
with six small water casks, and with them all the people they found
here on their arrival. They left behind them some of their dogs,
and the boar which had been given them the day before, which
the captain now took back again, as he had not another.

In unpacking the bread, 4,292 lbs. were found totally unfit to
eat, and about 3,000 more could only be eaten by people in their
situation.

Very early in the morning of the 22nd they were visited by a

—_—_—_—_

number of the natives, in four or five canoes, very few of whom-

they had seen before.

These people brought with them various articles for barter ; at
first the exchanges were much in the sailors’ favour, till an old
man, who was no stranger, came and assisted his countrymen with
his advice.

After the natives were gone, the captain took three sows and a
boar, two cocks and two hens, which he landed at the bottom of

West Bay, carrying them a little way into the woods, where he
pawns ,
194 COOK’S VOYAGES.



left them with as much food as would serve them ten or twelve
days. This was done with a view of keeping them in the woods,
lest they should come down on the shore in search of food, and
be discovered by the natives.

Having now put the ship in a condition for sea, and to encounter
the southern latitudes, the tents were struck and everything got on
board.

The boatswain, with.a party of men, being in the woods, cutting
broom, some of them found a private hut of the natives, in which
was deposited most of the treasures they had received from them,
as well as some other articles of their own. Complaint was soon
made by the natives that some articles had been carried off, and
they particularly charged one man with the theft. The captain
having ordered him to be punished before them, they went away
seemingly satisfied, although they did not recover any of the
things they had lost. It was ever a maxim with Captain Cook to
punish the smallest crimes of any of his people committed against
these uncivilized nations, for he considered their robbing them
with impunity was by no means a sufficient reason why the
Europeans should do likewise.

Calm light air from the north all day on the 23rd hindered
them from putting to sea as intended. In the afternoon some of
the officers went on shore to amuse themselves among the natives,
where they saw the head and bowels of a youth, who had lately
been killed in a skirmish, lying on the beach, and the heart stuck
on a forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of the largest
canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head, and brought it
on board, where «. piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one
of the natives, before all the officers and most of the men.
Captain Cook was on shore at this time, but soon after returning
on board was informed of the circumstance, and found the quarter-
deck crowded with the natives, and the mangled head, or rather
part of it, lying on the taffrail, The skull had been broken on the
left side, just above the temples, and the remains of the face had
all the appearance of a youth of twenty. The sight of the head
and the relation of the above circumstances struck him with
horror, and filled his mind with indignation against these cannibals.
Curiosity, however, got the better of his indignation, especially

THE SECOND VOYAGE. 195
when he considered that it would avail but little ; and being desir-
ous of becoming an eye-witness of a fact which many doubted, he
ordered a piece of the flesh to be broiled and brought to the
quarter-deck, where one of these cannibals ate it with surprising
avidity. This had such an effect on some of the sailors as to
make them sick.

That the New Zealanders are cannibals cannot be doubted,
though the account given of this in Captain Cook’s former voyage
was discredited by many persons.

On the 25th they weighed, Captain Cook having on the previous
morning written a memorandum setting forth the time he arrived,
the day he sailed, the route he intended to take, and such other
information as he thought necessary, for Captain Furneaux, in case
he should put into the Sound, and buried it in a bottle under the
root of a tree in the garden, in such a manner as must have been
found by him, or any European who might put into the cove.
Everyone being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could
neither be stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours,
they gave up all thoughts of seeing her any more during the
voyage, as no rendezvous was fixed upon after leaving New
Zealand.

On the r4th_ of December_they fell in with several large ice-
bergs, and about noon with a quantity of loose ice, through which
they sailed. Gray albatrosses, blue petrels, and other sea birds,
were seen. As they advanced with a fresh gale from the west,
they found the number of icebergs greatly to increase, also a con-
siderable quantity of loose ice. They tacked, stretched to the
north, and soon got clear of it, but not before they had received
several hard knocks from the larger pieces, which, with all their
care, they could not avoid. After clearing one danger, they still
had another to encounter ; for the weather remained foggy, and
many large islands lay in their way.

On the 2xst they suddenly found themselves amongst a cluster of
large icebergs and a vast quantity of loose pieces ; and, as the fog
was very thick, it was with the utmost difficulty they got clear of
them. On the 23rd, the wind being pretty moderate and the sea
smooth, they brought-to at the outer edge of the ice, hoisted out
two boats, and sent to take some up. The snow froze on the
196 COOK’S VOYAGES,

rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires and the sails like
boards or plates of metal.

On the 30th of January, 1774,.very early in the morning, they
‘/perceived the clouds over the horizon to the south to be of an
unusual snow-white brightness, which they knew denoted their
approach to field-ice. Soon after, they were close to its edge. It
extended east and west far beyond the reach of their sight.
Ninety-seven ice hills were distinctly seen within the field, be-
sides those on the outside ; many of them very large and looking
like a ridge of mountains, rising one above another, till they were
lost in the clouds. The outer or northern edge of this immense
field was composed of loose or broken ice close packed together,
so that it was not possible for anything to enter it. This was
about a mile broad, within which was solid ice in one continued
compact body. It was rather low and flat, except the hills, but
“seemed to increase in height to the south, in which direction it
extended beyond their sight.

Captain Cook says, “I will not say it was impossible anywhere
to get further to the south, but the attempting it would have been
a dangerous and rash enterprise, and what I believe no man in
my situation would have thought of. I, who had an ambition not
only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as it
was possible for man to go, was not sorry to meet with this inter-
ruption, as it in some measure relieved us, and at least shortened
the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the
southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed
one inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned
for my tacking and standing to the north.” The captain now
came to the resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend
the ensuing winter within the tropics, as he was now quite
satisfied that no continent existed in this ocean, but what must
lie so far to the south as to be totally inaccessible on account
of the ice; and that if one should be found in the South
Atlantic Ocean, it would be necessary to have the whole summer
to explore it.

They now steered north, inclining to the east, and in the even-
ing were overtaken by a furious storm, attended with snow and
sleet. It came upon them so suddenly that before they could
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 107

take in their sails two of them were blown to pieces, and the
others much damaged.

On the 25th Captain Cook was taken ill of a bilious colic, which
was so violent as to confine him to his bed, so that the manage-
ment of the ship was left to Mr. Cooper, the first lieutenant, who
performed his duties much to his satisfaction. It was several
days before the dangerous symptoms of his disorder were re-
moved. When he began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to
Mr. Foster fell a sacrifice to his tender stomach. They had no
other fresh meat whatever on board, and the captain could eat of
this flesh as well as broth made of it, when he could taste nothing
else. Thus he received nourishment and strength from food
which would have made most people in Europe sick ; so true it is
that necessity is governed by no law. |

At eight o’clock in the morning of the 11th of March land was
seen from the mast-head, bearing west, about twelve leagues dis-
tant. They now tacked, and endeavoured to get into what ap-
peared to be a bay, on the west side of the point ; but before this
could be accomplished night came upon them, and they stood on

and off, under the land, till next morning. This is called Easter__.

Island or Davis’ Land. Here a canoe, conducted by two men,
came off. They [hey brought with them a bunch of plantains, which
they sent into the ship by a rope, and then returned ashore.
This gave the captain a good opinion of the islanders, and in-
spired them with hopes of getting some provisions, of which they
were much in want. They continued to range along the coast till
they opened the northern point of the isle. While the ship was
working in, a native came on board. The first thing he did was
to measure the length of the ship, by fathoming her from the
taffrail to the stem ; and as he counted the fathoms they observed
that he called the numbers by the same names they do at
Otaheite. Nevertheless, his language was nearly unintelligible to
them. Next morning the captain went ashore, accompanied by
some of the gentlemen, to see what the island was likely to afford.
They landed on a sandy beach, where some hundreds of the
natives were assembled, who were so impatient to see them that
many swam off to meet the boats. Not one of them had so much
as a stick or weapon of any kind in his hand. After distributing
198 COOK’S VOYAGES.



a few trinkets among them, they made signs for something to eat,
on which they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-
canes, and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces
of cloth. ‘They soon discovered that they were expert thieves,
and as cheating in their exchanges as any people they had yet met
with. It was with some difficulty they could keep their hats on
their heads, but it was hardly possible to keep anything in their
pockets, not even what they had just bought, for they would
watch every opportunity to snatch it from them, so that they
sometimes bought the same thing two or three times over, and
after all did not get it.

The captain was obliged to content himself with remaining at
the landing-place among the natives, as he had not yet recovered.
They had a pretty brisk trade with them for potatoes, which were
dug out of an adjoining plantation ; but this traffic was soon put
a stop to, by the owner of the plantation coming down and driv-
ing all the people out of it. By this they concluded that he had
been robbed of his property, and that they were not less scrupu-
lous of stealing from one another than from their visitors, on
whom they practised every little fraud they could think of, and
generally with success ; for they had no sooner detected them in
one, than they found out another. A party who had been sent
out in the morning to view the country now returned. They had
not proceeded far before a middle-aged man, punctured from
head to foot, and his face painted with a sort of white pigment,
appeared with a spear in his hand, and walked alongside of them,
making signs to his countrymen to keep at a distance, and not to
molest them. When he had pretty well effected this, he hoisted
a piece of white cloth on his spear, placed himself in front, and
led the way with this ensign of peace.

On the east side, near the sea, they met with three platforms of
stone work, or rather the ruins of them; on each of these had
stood four large statues, but they were all fallen down from two
of the platforms, and also one from the third ; only one was unin-
jured by the fall, or in no degree defaced. Mr. Wales measured
this one, and found it to be 15 feet in length and 6 feet broad
over the shoulders. Each statue had on its head a large cylin-
drical stone of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The one










































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































—

STATUES, EASTER ISLAND.


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 201



they measured, which was not the largest, was 52 inches high and
66 inches in diameter. In some the upper corner of the cylinder
was.taken off in a sort of concave quarter round; but in others
the cylinder was entire. Beyond this, they came to the most
fertile part of the island, it being interspersed with plantations of
potatoes, sugar-canes, and plantain trees ; but they could find no
water, except what the natives twice or thrice brought them,
which, though brackish and stinking, was rendered acceptable by
the extremity of their thirst. They also passed some huts, the
owners of which met them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes ;
but at the very time some were relieving the thirsty and hungry,
there were others who endeavoured to steal from them the very
things which had been given them. At last, to prevent worse
consequences, they were obliged to fire a load of small shot at
one of them, who had been so audacious as to snatch the bags
which contained everything they carried with them. The shot hit
him on the back, on which he dropped the bags, ran a little way,
and then fell; but he afterwards got up and walked, and what be-
came of him they knew not, nor whether he was much wounded.
This affair occasioned some delay, and drew the natives together.
They presently saw the man who had hitherto led the way, and
one or two more come running towards them; but instead of
stopping when they came up, they continued to run round them,
repeating in a kind manner a few words, until they set forward
again. Then their old guide hoisted his flag, leading the way as
before, and none ever attempted to steal from them the whole day
afterwards.

They observed that the eastern side of the island was full of
gigantic statues, some placed in groups on platforms of masonry,
others single, fixed only in the earth, and in general much larger
than those in groups. Having measured one which had fallen
down, they found it very near 27 feet long, and upwards of 8 feet
over the shoulders, and yet this appeared considerably short of the
size of one they saw standing. They saw no animals of any sort,
and but few birds, and Captain Cook determined to leave the
island the next morning, since nothing could be obtained that
made it worth his while to stay.

The produce of this island is sweet potatoes, yams, plantains,
202 COOK’S VOYAGES.



and sugar-canes, all pretty good, the potatoes especially, which are
the best of the kind they ever tasted. They have a few tame fowls,
such as cocks and hens, but they saw very little fish amongst the
natives. The inhabitants did not seem to exceed 700 souls,
above two-thirds of whom appeared to be males. They either
have few women among them, or else many were restrained from
making their appearance. In general the people of this isle are a
slender race. They did not see a man that would measure 6 feet,
so far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Rogge-
wein’s Voyage asserts. They are brisk and active, have good
features, and not disagreeable countenances, are friendly and
hospitable to strangers, but as much addicted to pilfering as any
of their neighbours.

The women’s clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth about
6 feet by 4, ora mat. One piece wrapped round their loins and
another over their shoulders make a complete dress. The men,
for the most part, wear only a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, each
end of which is fastened to a cord or belt round the waist.

On the 16th March the ship stood out to sea, and having a
steady, settled trade wind and pleasant weather, the forge was
ordered to be set up to repair, and to make various necessary
articles in iron. On the 6th of April they saw an isle which, as it
was a new discovery, they named Hood’s Island, after the young
gentleman who first saw it. The second was that of St. Pedro,
the third La Dominica, and the fourth St. Christina, all of the
Marquesas group. They sailed along the S.E. coast of La
Dominica, without seeing any anchorage. Some canoes put off
from these places ‘and followed them down the coast. At length,
having come before the port they were in search of, they cast
anchor. ‘This was no sooner done, than about thirty or forty of
the natives came off in ten or twelve canoes ; but it required some
address to get them alongside. At last a hatchet and some spike-
nails induced the people in one canoe to come under the quarter-
gallery, after which all the others pulled alongside, and, having
exchanged some bread-fruit and fish for nails, retired on shore.

Very early next morning the natives visited them again, in much
greater numbers than before, bringing with them bread-fruit,
plantains, and one pig, all of which they exchanged. But in this
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 203.



traffic they would frequently keep their goods and make no return,.
till at last the captain was obliged to fire a musket-ball over one
man who had several times served them in this manner, after
which they dealt more fairly, and soon after several of them came
on board. As the captain was going in a boat to look for a more
convenient place to moor the ship in, he observed too many of
the natives on board, and advised the officers to be on their guard.
He had hardly got into the boat before he was told that they had
stolen one of the iron stanchions, and were making off with it.
He ordered them to fire over the canoe; but the natives made
too much noise for him to be heard, and the unhappy thief was.
killed at the third shot.

At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipita-
tion. The captain followed them into the bay, and prevailed on
the people in one canoe to come alongside the boat, and receive
some nails and other things, which he gave them. One would
have thought that the natives, by this time, would have been so
sensible of the effect of firearms, as not to have provoked them
to fire upon them any more ; but the event proved otherwise ; for:
ihe boat had no sooner left the kedge-anchor than the men in the
canoe put off from the shore, took hold of the buoy rope, and
attempted to drag it ashore. Two shots were fired at them, and
at the second, which passed over them, they let go the buoy and
made for the shore. This was the last shot they had occasion to
fire at any of them while they lay at this place.

On the roth April some people from more distant parts came
alongside in canoes, and sold some pigs; so that they now had
sufficient to give the crew a fresh meal. After dinner the captain
went on shore and collected eighteen hogs. Next morning he
went down to the same place where he had been the preceding
evening; but, instead of getting pigs as he expected, found the
scene quite changed. The nails and other things they were mad
after the evening before, they now despised. The reason was,
several of the young gentlemen, having landed the preceding day,
had given away in exchange various articles which the people had
not seen before, and which pleased them more than nails or more
useful iron tools. Trade being thus stopped, the captain prepared
to leave this place, and go where their wants might effectually be
204 COOK’S VOYAGES.



relieved ; for, after having been nineteen weeks at sea, and living
all the time on salt diet, they were much in want of fresh provi-
sions; yet they had not one sick man on board, owing to the
many antiscorbutic articles they took, and to the attention of the
surgeon. On the 11th of April, at three o’clock in the afternoon,
they weighed. They had now but little wind, and that very
variable, with showers of rain.

The Marquesas were discovered by Mendana, a Spaniard, and
from him obtained the general name they now bear. They are
five in number, viz., La Magdalena, St. Pedro, La Dominica,
Santa Christina, and Hood’s Island, which is the northernmost ;
La Dominica is the largest. The inhabitants are, without excep-
tion, the finest race of people in this sea. For fine shape and
regular features, they perhaps surpass the other nations. Never-
theless, the affinity of their language to that spoken in Otaheite
and the Society Isles show that they are of the same nation.
Oedidee could converse with them tolerably well ; and it was easy
to see that their language was nearly the same. The men, for
the most part, have nothing to cover their nakedness, except the
marra, as it is called at Otaheite, which is a slip of cloth passed
round the waist and betwixt the legs. ‘This simple dress is quite
sufficient for the climate, and answers every purpose modesty
requires. The dress of the women is a piece of cloth wrapped
round the loins like a petticoat, which reaches down below the
middle of the leg, and a loose mantle over their shoulders.

In eating, these people are by no means so cleanly as the
‘Otaheitans. They are likewise dirty in their cookery. Captain
Cook says he saw them make a batter of fruit and roots, diluted
with water, in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, and out of which
the hogs had been eating, without either washing it or their hands,
which were equally dirty.

They proceeded with a fine easterly wind till the 17th, when
land was seen bearing W. half N., which, upon a nearer approach,
they found to be a string of low islets, connected together by a-
reef of coral rocks. As they steered along the coast the natives
appeared in several places, armed with long spears and clubs.
The captain sent two boats ashore, under the command of Lieu-
tenant Cooper, with the view of having some intercourse with


THE SECOND VOYAGE. 205



them. The natives saw them land without offering the least
opposition. Some little time after, however, observing forty or
fifty natives, all armed, coming towards the boats, they stood
close in shore, in order to be ready to support their people in case
of an attack. But nothing of the kind happened ; and soon after
the boats returned on board, when Mr. Cooper informed the
captain that only a few of the natives met him on the beach,
though there were many in the skirts of the woods, with spears in
their hands. The presents he made them were received with
great coolness, which plainly showed they were unwelcome visitors.
They brought on board five dogs, which seemed to be in plenty
there. They saw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which they got two
dozen by exchange. This island, which is called by the inhabi-
tants Tiookea, was discovered by Commodore Byron. It is some-
thing of an oval shape, and is about ten leagues in circuit.

On the 18th, at daybreak, they bore down to another isle to the
westward, which they reached by eight o'clock, and ranged about
the S.E. side, one mile from shore. They made the high land of
Otaheite on the 21st of April, and at eight o’clock the next morn-
ing anchored in Matavia Bay. This was no sooner known to the
natives than many of them paid them a visit, and expressed not a
little joy at seeing them again.

On the 24th, Otoo the king, and several other chiefs, with a
train of attendants, brought them, as presents, ten or a dozen large
hogs, besides fruit. The captain, knowing how much it was his
interest to make this man his friend, met him at the tents, and
conducted him and his friend on board, where they stayed to
dinner, after which they were dismissed with suitable presents,
highly pleased with the reception they had met with. They found
these people building a great number of large canoes and houses
of every kind, some living in spacious habitations who had not
a place to shelter themselves in eight months before; several
large hogs about every house, and every other sign of a rising
state. Judging from these circumstances that they would not fare
b.tter by removing to another island, Captain Cook resolved to
make some stay.

In the morning of the 26th the captain went down to Oparree
accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo
206 COOK’S VOYAGES.

a visit. As they drew near, they observed a number of large
canoes in motion, but were surprised when they arrived to see
upwards of 300, ranged in order, for some distance along the
shore, all completely equipped and manned, besides a vast number
of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected an armament
collected together in their neighbourhood in the space of one
night gave rise to various conjectures. The vessels of war con-
sisted of 160 large double canoes, very well equipped, manned,
and armed. ‘The chiefs and fighting men were dressed in their
war panoply, consisting of a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-
plates, and helmets. ‘The vessels were decorated with flags and
streamers, so that the whole made a grand and noble appearance,
such as they had never before seen in this sea, and what no one
would have expected. Their instruments of war were clubs,
spears, and stones. Besides the vessels of war, there were 170
sail of smaller double canoes, all with a little house upon them,
and rigged with a mast and sail, which the war canoes had not.
These were designed for transports and victuallers—for in the
war canoes was no sort of provisions whatever. In these 330
vessels there were no less than 7,760 men. Tupia informed them,
when they were first here, that the whole island raised only be-
tween 6,000 and 7,000 men; but now they saw two districts only
raise that number. They had not been long gone from Oparree
before the whole fleet was in motion to the westward, whence it
came. When they got to Matavia, they were told that this fleet
was part of the armament intended to go against Eimeo, whose
chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite.

In the morning of the 27th of April the captain received a
present from a chief named Towha, consisting of two large hogs,
and some fruit sent by two of his servants, who had orders to
decline anything in return; nor would they receive what was
offered to them. Soon after, he went down to Oparree in his
boat where, having found both this chief and the king, after a
short stay he brought them both on board to dinner, together
with Tarevatoo, the king’s younger brother, and Tee, his uncle.
As they drew near the ship, Towha, the admiral, who had never
seen one before, began to express much surprise. He was con-
ducted all over the ship, every part of which he viewed with great
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 207



attention. On this occasion, Otoo was the principal showman ;
for, by this time, he was well acquainted with the different
parts of the ship. Soon after, the king and his attendants went
away also. Captain Cook had been urged to assist them
against Tiarabou, but to their solicitations he gave no encourage-
ment.

On the 28th, one of the natives attempted to steal a water-cask
from the watering-place; he was caught in the act, sent on board,
and put in irons, in which situation Otoo and the other chiefs
saw him. Having made known his crime to them, Otoo begged
he might be set at liberty. This the captain refused; telling him
that since he punished his people when they committed the least
offence against the natives, it was but just this man shouid be
punished also. Accordingly he ordered the man to be carried on
shore to the tents; and having expostulated with Otoo on the
conduct of his people in general, telling him that neither he nor
any of his people took anything from them without first paying
for it, he added that punishing this offender would be the means
of saving the lives of others of his people, by deterring them from
committing crimes of this nature. With these and other argu-
ments, which he pretty well understood, he seemed satisfied, anc:
only desired the man might not be killed. The captain then
ordered the crowd, which was very great, to be kept at a proper
distance, and in the presence of them all, ordered the fellow two
dozen lashes with the cat-o’-nine-tails, which he bore with great
firmness, and was then set at liberty. After this the natives werc
going away, but Towha stepped forth, called them back, and
harangued them for nearly half an hour. His speech consisted ox
short sentences, which were not well understood ; but from what
they could gather, he condemned their present conduct, and re-
commended a different one for the future. The gracefulness ot
his action, and the attention with which he was heard, bespoke
him a great orator. Otoo remained silent. As soon as Towha
had ended his speech, the captain ordered the marines to go
through their exercise, and to load and fire volleys with ball; and
as they were very quick in their manceuvres, it is easier to con-
ceive than to describe the amazement the natives were under the
whole time. This being over, the chiefs took leave and retired
208 COOK’S VOYAGES.



with all their attendants, scarcely more pleased than frightened
at what they had seen.

On going ashore on the morning of the 7th they found Otoo
at the tents, and took the opportunity of asking his leave to cut
down some trees for fuel, which he readily granted. The captain
told him he should cut down no trees that bore any fruit. He
was pleased with this declaration, and told it aloud several times
to the people about them.

The following night all their friendly connections received an
interruption through the negligence of one of the sentries on
shore. He- having either slept or quitted his post, one of the
natives carried off his musket. The first news the captain heard
of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on board for that
purpose. They were not well enough acquainted with their
language to understand all Tee’s story, but they understood
enough to know that something had happened which had alarmed
the king. In order, therefore, to be fully informed, the captain
went ashore with Tee. As soon as they landed, he was informed
of the whole by the sergeant who commanded the party. The
natives were all alarmed, and most of them fled. Tee and the
captain went to look for Otoo, and as they advanced he
endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but at the same
time insisted on the musket being restored. After travelling some
distance into the country, Tee stopped all at once, and advised
the captain to return, saying that Otoo was gone to the mountains,
and he would proceed and tell him that he (the captain) was
still his friend. Tee also promised that he would use his en-
deavours to recover the musket.

The captain returned to the ship, and soon after he observed
six large canoes coming round Point Venus. There being room
for suspecting that some persons belonging to these canoes had
committed the theft, he came to a resolution to intercept them,
and having put off in a boat for that purpose, he gave orders for
another to follow. One of the canoes, which was some distance
ahead of the rest, came directly for the ship. He went alongside:
this, and was told that Otoo was then at the tents. Pleased with
this news, he contradicted the orders he had given for intercepting
the other canoes, thinking they might be coming on board also.
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 209

But when he landed he was told that Otoo had not been there,
nor did they know anything of him. On looking behind him, he
saw all the canoes making off in the greatest haste; even the one
he had left alongside the ship was making her escape. Vexed at
being thus outwitted, he resolved to pursue them, and as he
passed the ship gave orders to send another boat for the same
purpose. Five out of the six canoes they took, and brought
alongside ; but the first, which had finessed so well, got clear
off.

In one of the canoes they had taken was a chief, a friend of
Mr. Foster's, who had hitherto called himself an Earee, and
would have been much offended if any one had called his title in
question; also three women—his wife and daughter, and the
mother of the late Tootahah. These, together with the canoes,
the captain resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo ;
thinking he would have weight enough with him to obtain the
return of the musket, as’ his own property was at stake. In the
dusk of the evening it was brought to the tents, together with
some other things they had lost, which they knew nothing of, by
three men who had pursued the thief, and taken them from him.
The captain, who could not gather whether they took this trouble
of their own accord, or by order of Otoo, rewarded them, and
made no further inquiry about it. When the musket and other
things were brought in, every one then present, or who came
after, pretended to have some hand in recovering them, and
claimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one acted this
farce as well as Nuno, a man of some note, and well known to
Captain Cook, when he was here in 1769. This man came with
all the savage fury imaginable in his countenance, and a large
club in his hand, with which he beat about him, in order to show
~ how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the same time, they
all knew that he had not been out of his house the whole time.

Things were now once more restored to their former state; and
Otoo promised, on his part, that the next day they should be
supplied as usual. They then returned with him to his proper
residence at Oparree, and there took a view of some of his dock-
yards (for such they well deserved to be called), and large canoes,

some lately built, and others building, two of which were the
oO,
210 COOK’S VOYAGES.



largest they had ever seen under that name. They now returned
to the ship. Otoo being desirous to see the great guns fired from
the ship, the captain ordered twelve to be shotted and fired to-
wards the sea. As he had never seen a cannon fired before, the
sight gave him as much pain as pleasure. In the evening they
entertained him with fireworks, which gave him great satisfaction.
Thus ended all their differences.

‘As the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly finished,
it was resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days; the captain
accordingly ordered everything to be got off from the shore, that
the natives might see they were about to depart.

On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Dolphin
was here in 1767, was thought to be queen of the island, and
whom they had not seen since 1769, paid them a visit, and
brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soc after Otoo arrived
with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. The
captain was pretty generous in his returns, thinking it might be
the last time he should see these good people, who had so liberally
relieved their wants ; and, in the evening, entertained them with
fireworks.

On the 14th they saw a number of war canoes coming round
the point of Oparree. Being desirous of having a nearer view of
them, accompanied by many officers and gentlemen, they has-
tened down to Oparree, which they reached before all the canoes
were landed, and had an opportunity of seeing in what manner
they approached the shore. When they got before the landing-
place, they formed themselves into divisions, and then each
division, one after the other, paddled in for the shore with all
their might, in the most exact and regular manner. All their
motions were observed with such quickness as clearly showed
them to be expert in their business. Otoo, who was present,
caused some of his troops to go through their exercise on shore.
Two parties first began with clubs, but this was over almost as
soon as begun, so that they had no time to make observations.
They then went to single combat, and, exhibited the various
methods of fighting with great alertness, parrying off the blows
and pushes which each combatant aimed at the other with great
dexterity. Their arms were clubs and spears ; the latter they also
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 21

used as darts. In fighting with the club, all blows intended to be
given the legs were evaded by leaping over it, and those intended
for the head by couching a little and leaping on one side.

The hospitality at this isle was such as to induce one of the
gunner’s mates to form a plan to remain at it; but he was dis-
covered before he could effect his purpose. He was an Trishman
by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch service. The captain
picked him up at Batavia, on his return from his former voyage,
and he had been with him ever since. Having neither friends
nor connections to confine him to any particular part of the
world, all nations were alike to him.

The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when
they were last here, seemed to promise fair for answering the end
for which they were put on shore. The ewe soon after had two
female kids, which were now well grown. The sheep which they
left died soon after, excepting one, which they understood
was yet alive. They also furnished them with a stock of cats, no
less than twenty having been given away at this isle.

In the afternoon, on the 15th of May, they anchored in O’Wharre
Harbour, in the island of Huaheine, when Oree, the chief, brought
a hog and other articles to the captain, who in return invited him
and his friends to dinner. In the evening of the 17th, some of
the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment given by Oree.
The piece represented a girl as running away with them from
Otaheite, which was in some degree true, as a young woman had
taken a passage with them down to Ulietea, and happened now
to be present at the representation of her own adventures ; this
had such an effect upon her that it was with great difficulty the
gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out, or to refrain
from shedding tears while it was acting.

Some of the petty officers, who had leave to go into the country
for their amusement, took two of the natives with them as guides,
and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, and other
articles, the current cash they traded with here, which the fellows
made off with in the following artful manner. The petty officers
having with them two muskets for shooting birds, their guides
pointed out some for them to kill. One of the muskets, owing to
the rain, having missed fire several times, and the other having
212 COOK’S VOYAGES.

Regie ee ee ee Ee

gone off, the instant the fellows saw themselves secure from both
they ran away, leaving the gentlemen gazing after them with so
much surprise, that no one had presence of mind to pursue them.

Early in the morning of the 2 3rd they unmoored and put to
sea. Oree, the chief, was the last man who went out of the
ship. At parting, the captain told him they should see each other
no more, at which he wept, and said, “ Let your sons come: we
will treat them well.” As soon as they were clear of the harbour,
they made sail, and stood over for the south end of Ulietea,
where they dropped anchor the next day.

On the 2sth a party went ashore to pay the chief a visit, and
make the customary present. At their first entering his house,
they were met by four or five old women, weeping and lamenting,
as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time cutting their heads
with instruments made of shark’s teeth, till the blood ran plenti-
fully down their faces and on their shoulders, What was still
worse, they were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old
hags, and by that means were all besmeared with blood. This
ceremony being over, they went out, washed themselves, and
immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company.
The captain made his presents, and after some little stay returned
on board.

On the 30th, one of the chiefs made the captain a present of
two pigs. He invited them to dinner, and ordered one of the
pigs to be killed and dressed, which was done as follows: the hog
being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick
across his throat, and pressed with all their weight on each end ;
the third man held his hind legs for about ten minutes, when the
animal was strangled. The hog weighed about fifty pounds ; it
was baked in their usual manner, and had an excellent flavour.

The captain having fixed on the 4th of June, his Majesty’s
birthday, for sailing, Oree, the chief, and his whole family came
on board to take their farewell, accompanied by Oo-oo-rou, and
several more chiefs and their friends. None came empty; but
Oo-00-rou brought a pretty large present, this being his first and
only visit. The captain distributed amongst them almost every-
thing he had left. The very hospitable manner in which he had
ever been received by these people had’ endeared them to him,
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 213

and given them a just title to everything in his power to grant.
Oree pressed him to return, and when the captain declined
making any promises on that head, he asked the name of his
morai (burying-place). As to this strange question he hesitated
not a moment to tell him Stepney, the parish in which he lived
when in London. He was requested to repeat it several times’
over, till they could pronounce it right ; then “ Stepney moral no
toote” was echoed through a hundred mouths at once. What
greater proof could they have of these people esteeming them as
friends than their wishing to remember them even beyond the
grave? They had been repeatedly told that they should see
them no more; they then wanted to know where they were to
mingle with their parent dust. As they could not promise, or
even suppose, that more English ships would be sent to those
isles, their faithful companion, Oedidee, chose to remain in his
native country ; but he left the ship with a regret fully demon-
strative of the esteem he had for them. Just as Oedidee was
going out of the ship, he asked Captain Cook to give him a paper
in order to show the commanders of other ships which might .
stop here. He complied with his request, gave him a certificate
of the time he had been with him, and recommended him to the
notice of those who might touch at the island after them. On
leaving the harbour they fired a salute in honour of the day.
Nothing particular happened for more than a week. On the
16th, just after sunrise, land was seen from the topmast-head.
They immediately steered for it, and found it to be an island,
composed of five or six woody islets, connected together by sand-
banks and breakers, enclosing a lake, into which they could see
no entrance. The captain looked upon this as a new discovery,
and named it Palmerston Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston,
one of the Lords of the Admiralty. On the 20th they again saw
land ; and, as they drew nearer, found it to be an island of con-
siderable extent. Perceiving some people on the shore, and
landing seeming to be easy, they hoisted out the boats, with
which they put off to the land, accompanied by some of the officers
and gentlemen. Friendly signs were made to the natives, which
were answered by menaces. All endeavours to bring them to a
parley were to no purpose ; for they advanced with the ferocity of
214 COOK’S VOYAGES.



wild boars, and threw their darts. Two or three muskets fired in
the air did not hinder one of them advancing still farther, and
throwing another dart, which passed close over the captain’s
shoulder. His temerity would have cost him his life, had not the
captain’s musket missed fire. The conduct and aspect of these
islanders occasioned the captain to name it Savages’ Island. They
seemed to be stout, well-made men, were naked, except round the
waists, and some of them had their faces, breasts, and thighs
painted black.

On the 26th of June they arrived off the coast of Rotterdam.
Before they had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from
all parts in canoes, bringing with them yams and shaddocks,
which they exchanged for small nails and old rags. Early in the
morning the captain went ashore with Mr. Gilbert, to look for
fresh water, and was received with great courtesy by the natives.
After they had distributed some presents amongst them, he asked
for water, and was conducted to a brackish pond about three-
fourths of a mile from the landing-place, which he supposed to be
the same that Tasman watered at. In the meantime, the
people left in the boat had laden her with fruit and roots which
the natives had brought down, and exchanged for nails and beads.
In the afternoon the surgeon was robbed of his gun. As soon as
the captain heard of this, he went to the place where the robbery
was committed, but took no steps to recover it; in this he
acknowledged he was wrong, as it encouraged further aggres-
sions.

Early in the morning of the 28th, Lieutenant Clerke, with the
master and fourteen or fifteen men, went on shore in the launch
for water. He had no sooner landed than the natives gathered
about him, behaving in so rude a manner that the officers were
in some doubt if they should land the casks; however, they
ventured, and, with difficulty, got them filled and into the boat
again. While thus employed, Mr. Clerke’s gun was snatched
from him and carried off, as were also some of the cooper’s tools
and other articles. All this was done, as it were, by stealth, for
they laid hold of nothing by main force. The captain landed
just as the launch was ready to put off, and the natives, who were
pretty numerous on the beach, as soon as they saw him fled, so
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 215



that he suspected something had happened. nisneres he pre-
vailed on many of them to stay. Being informed of all the
preceding circumstances, he quickly came to a resolution to
oblige them to make restitution, and for this purpose ordered all
the marines to be armed and sent on shore. He then sent all
the boats off but one, with which he remained, having a good
many of the natives about him, who behaved with their usual
courtesy ; but he made them so sensible of his intention, that
long before the marines came Mr. Clerke’s musket was brought,
though they used many excuses to divert him from insisting on
the restoration of the surgeon’s. At length, Mr. Edgecumbe
arriving with the marines, this alarmed them so much that some
fled. Only one person was wounded before the musket was
brought and laid down at his feet. He then ordered some canoes
he had seized to be restored, to show them on what account they
were detained.

On returning to go on-board, Captain Cook found many people
collected together, from whom he understood that the man he
had fired at was dead. This story the captain treated as im-
probable, and addressed a man, who seemed of some consequence,
for the restitution of the cooper’s adze they had lost in the morn-
ing. He immediately sent away two mcn, as he thought, for
it, but he soon found they had greatly mistaken each other, for
instead of the adze they brought the wounded man, stretched
out on a board, and laid him down at his feet, to all appearance
dead. He was much moved at the sight, but soon discovered
that he was only wounded in the hand and thigh. He therefore
sent for the surgeon to dress the wounds, which were not
dangerous. In the meantime he addressed several people for
the adze, particularly an elderly woman, who had always a great

‘deal to say to him from his first landing; but on this occasion
she gave her tongue full scope. The nen understood but
little of her eloquence ; but when she found he was determined,
she and three or four more women went away, and soon after the
adze was brought, but he saw her no more.

After leaving Rotterdam, or Anamooka, on the 30th, itiey
saw the summit of Amattafoo, but not clear enough to determine
with certainty whether there was a volcano or not; but every-
216 COOK’S VOYAGES.

thing they could see concurred to make them believe there was
one. As the captain intended to get to the south, in order to ex-
plore the land that might lie there, they continued to work between
the isle of Lepers and Aurora, and on the roth of July the last-
mentioned isle bore south, distant twenty miles. At daybreak on
the 21st they found themselves before the channel that divides
Whitsuntide Island from the South Land, which is above two
leagues across. Having sent the armed boats to sound and look
for an anchorage, the ship soon followed.

Next morning many of the natives came round them, some in
‘canoes and others swimming. The captain soon prevailed on
one to come on board, which he no sooner did than he was
followed by more than he desired, so that not only the deck but
the rigging was presently filled with them, He took four of them
into the cabin, and gave them various articles, which they showed
to those in the canoes, and seemed much pleased with their re-
ception. While he was thus making friends with those in the
cabin an accident happened, that threw all into confusion, but in
the end proved advantageous. A fellow in a canoe, having been
refused admittance into one of the boats that lay alongside, bent
his bow to shoot a poisoned arrow at the boat-keeper ; some of
his countrymen prevented his doing it that instant, and gave time
to acquaint the captain with it. The fellow, however, seemed
resolved, and directed his bow again at the boat-keeper; but, on
the captain calling to him, pointed at him. Having a musket in
his hand, loaded with small shot, he gave him the contents.
This staggered him for a moment, but did not prevent him from
holding his bow still in the attitude of shooting; another dis-
charge of the same nature made him drop it. At this time some
began to shoot arrows on the other side. A musket discharged
in the air had no effect, but a 4-pound shot fired over their heads
sent them off in the utmost confusion.

Being unwilling to lose the benefit of the moonlight nights,
which now happened, they weighed on the 23rd July, and quitted
the harbour. When the natives saw them under sail, they came
off in their canoes, making exchanges with more confidence than
before, and giving extraordinary proofs of their honesty. As the
ship at first had fall way through the water, several of them
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 217



dropped astern after they had received goods, and before they
had time to deliver theirs in return. Instead of taking advantage
of this, they used their utmost efforts to get up with them, and to
deliver what they had already been paid for. Pieces of cloth and
marble paper were in most esteem with them, but edge-tools, nails,
and beads they seemed to disregard. Had they made a longer
stay, they might soon have been upon good terms with this people,
who, in general, were the most ugly, ill-proportioned natives they
ever saw, and in every respect different from any they had met
with inthis sea. They area dark-coloured and diminutive race, with
long heads, flat faces, and monkey countenances. Their hair,
mostly black or brown, is short and curly, but quite as soft and
woolly as that of a negro. Their beards are very strong, crisp,
and bushy, and generally black and short. But what most adds
to their deformity, is a belt or cord which they wear round the
waist, and tie tight over the belly; the men go quite naked,
except a piece of cloth or leaf used as a wrapper.

They saw but few women, and they were not less ugly than the
men; their heads, faces, and shoulders are painted red. They
wear a kind of petticoat; and some of them had something over
their shoulders like a bag, in which they carry their children.
None of them came off to the ship, and they generally kept at a
distance when the ship’s people were on shore. Their ornaments
were ear-rings made of tortoiseshell, and bracelets. They had in
their noses a piece of white stone, about an inch and a half long,
formed like a bow. As signs of friendship, they present a green
branch, and sprinkle water with the hand over the head.

Their weapons are clubs, spears, and bows and arrows. The
former are made of hard or iron-wood. Their bows are about 4 feet
_ long, made of a stick split down the middle, and are not circular,

but bent more at one end than the other. The arrows, which
are a sort of reed, are sometimes armed with a long sharp point,
made of hard wood, and sometimes with a very hard point made
of bone; and these points are all covered with a substance which
they took for poison. Indeed, the people themselves confirmed
their suspicions by making signs to them not to touch the point,
and giving them to understand that if they were pricked by it
they would die. The people of Mallicollo seemed to be a
218 COOK’S VOYAGES.



different nation from any they had yet met with, and spoke a
different language. The harbour, which is situated at the N.E.
side of Mallicollo, the captain named Port Sandwich; it is so
sheltered that no winds can disturb a ship at anchor there, and
a vessel can be brought so near the shore as.to cover the people
who may be at work upon it.

Soon after they got to sea they stood over for Ambrym. On
the 24th they reached an island near Apee, about four leagues in
circuit; it is remarkable for its three high-peaked hills, which
gained it that name. They now steered to the east, and having
weathered Three-hills, stood for a group of small isles off the
S.E. point of Apee. These were called Shepherd’s Isles, in
honour of Dr. Shepherd, Plumian professor of astronomy at
Cambridge.

It should have been remarked that the night before they came
out of Port Sandwich, two reddish fish, about the size of large
bream, and not unlike them, were caught with hook and line.
On these fish most of the officers and petty officers dined the
next day. The night following, every one who had eaten of
them were seized with violent pains in the head and _ bones,
attended with a scorching heat all over the skin and numbness in
the joints. There remained no doubt that this was occasioned
by the fish being of a poisonous nature, and having communicated
its bad effects to all who partook of them, even to the hogs and
dogs. One of the former died about sixteen hours after, and soon
one of the latter shared the same fate, and it was a week or ten days
before all the gentlemen recovered. These must have been the
same sort of fish mentioned by Quiros under the name of pargos,
which poisoned the crews of his ships so that it was some time
before they recovered. And they would doubtless have suffered
equally had more fish been eaten.

Continuing their course to the south, they drew near the
southern lands, which they found to consist of one large island,
whose southern and western extremities extended beyond their
sight, and three or four smaller ones lying off its north side. The
two northernmost are much the largest, and are a good height,
and lie in the direction of E. by S. and W. by N. from each
other, distant two leagues. They named the one Montagu, and
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 219

the other Hinchinbrook, and the large island Sandwich, in
honour of the Earl of Sandwich.

As they passed Hinchinbrook Isle, several people came to the
sea-side, and by signs seemed to invite them ashore. Some were
also seen on Sandwich Island, which exhibited a most delightful
prospect, being diversified with woods and lawns.

On the 3rd of August they found themselves abreast of a lofty
promontory; and early the next morning the captain went with
two boats to examine the coast and look for a proper landing-
place, as well as wood and water. At this time the natives began
to assemble on the shore, and by signs invited them to land.
The captain went first to a small beach, where he found no good
landing. Some of the natives who were there offered to haul the
boats over the breakers to the sandy beach, which was thought
a friendly offer, but they had reason afterwards to alter their
opinion. They put into the shore in two or three places,
but not liking the situation, did not land. By this time the
natives conceived what they wanted, as they directed the boat
round a rocky point, where, on a fine sandy beach, the captain
stepped out of the boat without wetting his feet, in the face of
a vast multitude, having only a green branch in his hand. They
received him with great courtesy and politeness, and would
retire back from the ‘boat on his making the least motion with
his hand. A man whom he took to be a chief, seeing this, made
them form a semicircle round the boat’s bow, and beat such as
attempted to break through this order. This man he loaded
with presents, giving some likewise to others, and asked by signs
for fresh water, in hopes of seeing where they got it. The chief
immediately sent a man for some, who ran to a house, and
presently returned with a little in a bamboo; so that he gained
but little information by this. He next asked, by the same
means, for something to eat, and they as readily brought him
a yam and some cocoa-nuts. In short, he was charmed with
their behaviour, and the only thing that could excite the least
suspicion was, that most of them were armed with clubs, spears,
darts, bows and arrows. For this reason the captain kept his
eye continually upon the chief, and watched his looks as well as
his actions. He made many signs to have the boat upon the
220 COOK’S VOYAGES.



shore, and at last slipped into the crowd, where he observed him
speaking to several people, and then return repeating signs to
haul the boat up, and hesitating a good deal before he would
receive some spike-nails that were then offered him. This made
the captain suspect something was intended, and immediately he
stepped into the boat, telling them by signs that he should soon
return. But they were not willing to part so soon, and now at-
tempted by force what they could not obtain by gentler means.

As the sailors were shoving off the boat, they laid hold of the
gang-board, and unhooked it off the boat’s stern; but as they did
not take it away, it was thought that this had been done by ac-
cident, and he ordered the boat in again to take it up. Then the
natives hooked it over the boat’s stern, and attempted to haul her
ashore ; others at the same time snatched the oars out of the
people’s hands. On pointing a musket at them, they, in some
measure, desisted, but returned in an instant, seemingly deter-
mined to effect their purpose.

At the head of this party was their chief. Signs and threats
having no effect, then safety became the only consideration. The
captain was unwilling to fire on the multitude, and resolved to
make the chief alone fall a victim to his own treachery; but his
musket at this critical moment missed fire. Whatever idea they
might have formed of their arms, the natives must now have
looked upon them as childish weapons, and began to let them see
how much better theirs were by throwing stones and darts and by
shooting arrows. This made it absolutely necessary to give
orders to fire. The first discharge threw them into confusion, but
a second was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach. Four
lay to all appearance dead on the shore, but two of them after-
wards crawled into the bushes. Happy it was for these people
that not half the muskets would go off, otherwise many more must
have fallen. One sailor was wounded in the cheek with a dart,
the point of which was as thick as a little finger ; and yet it en-
tered above two inches, which shows that it must have been hurled
with great force. An arrow struck Mr. Gilbert’s naked breast;
but coming from some distance, it hardly penetrated the skin.
These arrows were pointed with hard wood.

As soon as they got on board the captain ordered the anchor
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 221



to be weighed. While this was doing, several people appeared on
the low rocky point, displaying two oars they had lost in the
scuffle. This was supposed to be a sign of submission, and of
their wanting to give them the oars. He, nevertheless, fired a 4-
pound shot at them, to let them see the effect of their great guns.
The ball fell short, but frightened them so much that none were
seen afterwards, and they left the oars standing against the bushes.
These islanders seemed to bea different race from those of Malli-
collo, and spoke a different language. They are of the middle
size, are well made, and have tolerably regular features. Their
colour is very dark, and they paint their faces, some with black
and others with red pigment. They saw a few women, who wore
a kind of petticoat made of palm leaves, or some plant like it.
But the men, like those of Mallicollo, were almost naked, having
only the belt about the waist, and the piece of cloth or leaf used
as a wrapper.

In the night of the 5th of August they saw a volcano which
they observed to throw up vast quantities of fire and smoke, with
a rumbling noise heard at a great distance. They made sail for
the island whence it appeared, and soon discovered a small inlet,
which had the appearance of a good harbour. The wind falling,
they dropped anchor in four fathoms of water. After this the
boats were sent to sound. Many of the natives now got together
in parties on several parts of the shore, all armed; some swam off
to them, others came in canoes. At first they were shy and kept
at a distance, but gradually grew bolder, and at last came under
their stern and made some exchanges. The people in one of the
first canoes, after coming as near as they durst, threw towards
them some cocoa-nuts. The captain went into a boat and picked
them up, giving them in return some cloth and other articles.
This induced others to come under the stern, and alongside,
where their behaviour was insolent and daring. They wanted to
carry off everything within their reach, and got hold of the fly of
the ensign, and would have torn it from the staff. A few muskets
fired in the air had no effect ; but a 4-pounder frightened them
so much that they quitted their canoes that instant, and took to
the water. However, as soon as they found themselves unhurt,
they got again into their canoes, gave some halloos, flourished
222 COOK’S VOYAGES.

their weapons, and were only dispersed by the discharge of some
musquetoon balls.

Towards evening Captain Cook landed at the head of the
harbour, with a strong party of men, without any opposition being
made by a great number of natives who were assembled in two
parties, the one on the right, the other on the left, all armed.
After distributing presents of cloths, medals, and other articles,
he ordered two casks tobe filled with water out of a pond about
twenty paces behind the landing-place, giving the natives to
understand that this was one of the articles they wanted. Besides
water, they got from them a few cocoa-nuts, which seemed to be
in plenty on the trees ; but they could not be prevailed upon to
part with any of their weapons. While they were bringing the
ship near the shore to wood and water, they observed the natives
assembling from all parts, and forming themselves into two parties,
as they did the previous evening, one on each side of the landing-
place, to the amount of some thousands, armed as before. A
canoe now and then came off, bringing a few cocoa-nuts and
plantains. The captain made an old man understand by signs
that they were to lay aside their weapons, and throwing those
that were in the canoe overboard, made him a present of a large
piece of cloth. There was no doubt that he understood him,
and made his request known to his countrymen ; for, as soon as
he landed, they observed him go first to the one party and then
to the other; nor was he ever after seen with anything like a
weapon in his hand. After this, three fellows came in a canoe
under the stern, one of them brandishing a club, with which he
struck the ship’s side, and committed other acts of defiance, but
at last offered to exchange it for a string of beads and some other
trifles. These were sent down to him by a line; but the moment
they were in his possession, he and his companions paddled off
in haste without giving the club in return. This is what the
captain expected, and, indeed, what he was not sorry for, as he
wanted an opportunity to show the multitude on shore the effect
of their firearms, without materially hurting any of them. Having
a fowling-piece loaded with small shot, he gave the fellow the
contents ; and when they were above musket-shot off, he ordered
some of the musquetoons to be fired, which alarmed them much.
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 223



This transaction, however, had little or no impression on the people
there ; on the contrary they began to halloo and to make sport of
it.

After mooring the ship, and placing the artillery in such a
manner as to command the whole harbour, Captain Cook em-
barked with the marines and a party of seamen in three boats,
and rowed in for the shore. It has been already mentioned that
the two divisions of the natives were drawn up on each side of
the landing-place. They had left a space between them of about
twenty yards, in which were laid to the most advantage a few
small bunches of plantains, a yam, and two or three roots. The
old man before mentioned, and two more, invited them by signs
to land; but to prevent treachery the captain ordered a musket
to be fired over the party on the right, which was by far the
strongest body. Though the alarm it gave them was momentary,
they quickly recovered themselves, and began to display their
weapons. The ship now fired a few great guns, which presently
dispersed them; when the party landed and marked out the
limits on the right and left bya line. The natives came gradually
to them, seemingly in a friendly manner, some even without their
weapons, though by far the greater part retained them, and when
they made signs to lay them down, gave the English to under-
stand that they must lay down theirs first. Thus all parties stood
armed; many seemed afraid to touch what belonged to the
visitors, and they seemed to have no notion of exchanging one
thing for another. The captain took the old man to the woods,
and made him understand that he wanted to cut down some trees
to take on board the ship. Paowang, as he was called, very
readily gave his consent to cut wood, nor was there any one who
made the least objection. Having landed again, they loaded the
‘ Jaunch with water, and after making three hauls with the seine,
caught upwards of three hundred pounds of mullet and other fish.
It was some time before any of the natives appeared, and not
above twenty or thirty at last, amongst whom was their trusty
friend, Paowang, who made them a present of a small pig, which
was the only one they got at this island.

During the night the volcano, which was about four miles to
the west, vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as it had
224 COOK’S VOYAGES.



done the night before, and the flames were seen above the inter-
vening hill, At every eruption it made a long rumbling noise
like that of thunder, or the blowing up of large mines. A heavy
shower of rain which fell at this time seemed to increase it, and
the wind blowing from the same quarter, the air was loaded with
its ashes; these were of the nature of fine sand, or stone ground
or burnt to powder, and were exceedingly troublesome to the
eyes.

Early in the morning of the 7th the natives began again to
assemble near the watering-place, armed as usual, but not in such
numbers as on the first occasion. On landing they found many
of the islanders much inclined to be friends, especially the old
people ; on the other hand, most of the younger were daring and
insolent, and obliged them to stand to their arms. The captain
stayed till he saw no disturbance was likely to happen, and then
returned to the ship, leaving the party under the command of
Lieutenants Clerke and Edgecumbe. On the goth Mr. Foster
learnt from the people the proper name of the island, which they
call Tanna. They gave them to understand, in a manner which
appeared to admit of no doubt, that they were cannibals. They
began the subject of eating human flesh of their own accord, by
asking if the English did. One of the men employed in taking
in ballast scalded his fingers in removing a stone out of some
water; this circumstance produced the discovery of several hot
springs at the foot of the cliff, and rather below high water mark.
During the nights of the roth and r1th the volcano was exceed-
ingly active, and made a terrible noise, throwing up prodigious
columns of fire and smoke at each explosion, which happened
every three or four minutes, and at one time great stones were
seen high in the air. Mr. Foster and his party went up the hill
on the west side of the harbour, where he found three places
whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued through cracks or
fissures in the earth. The ground about these was exceedingly
hot and parched or burnt; at every explosion of the volcano
the quantity of smoke or steam in these fissures was greatly in-
creased, and forced out so as to rise in small columns, which
were seen from the ship. In the afternoon, Mr. Foster having
begun his botanical researches on the other side of the harbour,
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 225



fell in with Paowang’s house, where he saw most of the articles
the captain had given him hanging on the adjoining trees and
bushes, as if they were not worthy of being under his roof.

On the morning of the 14th a party set out for the country, to
try if they could not get a nearer and better view of the volcano.
The place affected by the heat was not above eight or ten yards
square; and near it were some fig trees, which spread their
branches over a part of the space. It was thought that this ex-
traordinary heat was caused by the steam of boiling water, strongly
impregnated with sulphur. They proceeded up the hill through
a country so covered with trees, shrubs, and plants, that the
bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees, which seem to have been planted
here by nature, were almost choked up. Hereand there they met
with a house, some few people, and plantations. These latter
they found in different states ; some of long standing, and others
lately cleared, and some only clearing. Happening to turn out ot
the common path, they came into a plantation where they found
a man at work, who undertook to be their guide. They followed
him, but had not gone far before they came to the junction of two
roads, in one of which stood another man with a sling and a
stone, which he thought proper to lay down when a musket was
pointed at him. The attitude in which they found him, the
ferocity of his looks, and his subsequent behaviour, convinced
them that he meant to defend the path he stood in. He, in some
measure, gained his point, for the guide took the other road, and
they followed, but not without suspecting he was leading them out
of the direct way. The other man went with them, likewise
counting them several times over, and hallooing, as it appeared,
for assistance; for they were presently joined by two or three
more, among whom was a young woman with a club in her hand.
“By these people they were conducted to the brow of a hill, and
shown a road leading down to the harbour, which they wanted
them to take. Not choosing to comply, they returned to that
they had left, which they pursued alone, their guide refusing to
go with them. After ascending another ridge, as thickly covered
‘with wood as those they had come over, they saw yet other hills
between them and the volcano, which seemed as far off as at their

first setting out. This discouraged them from proceeding farther,
P
226 COOK’S VOYAGES.



especially as they could get no one to be their guide. They
therefore came to a resolution to return, and had but just put this
in execution, when they were met by between twenty and thirty
people, whom the fellow before-mentioned had collected together,
with a design, no doubt, to oppose their advancing into the
country.

In the evening, Captain Cook took a walk with some of the
gentlemen into the country on the other side of the harbour,
where they had very different treatment from what they had met
with in the morning. The people they now visited, among whom
was their friend Paowang, being better acquainted with them,
showed a readiness to oblige them in everything in their power.
They came to a village consisting of about twenty houses, the
most of which might be compared to the roof of a thatched house
in England, taken off the walls, and placed on the ground. Some
were open at both ends, others partly closed with reeds ; and all
were covered with palm thatch. A few of them were thirty or
forty feet long and fourteen or sixteen broad.

On the rsth, having finished taking in water, a few hands only
were on shore making brooms, the rest being employed on board
setting up the rigging and putting the ship in a condition for sea.
Mr. Foster, in his botanical excursions, shot a pigeon, in the claw
of which was a wild nutmeg. He took some pains to find the
tree, but his endeavours were without success.

On the 17th of July Captain Cook went on shore to pay a visit
to an old chief who was said to be king of the island. Paowang
took little or no notice of this man, and upon the captain making
him a present, he immediately went away, as if he had got all he
came for. His name was Geogy, and they gave him the title of
Areeke. He was very old, but had a merry open countenance.
He wore round his waist a broad red and white chequered bel: ;
but this was hardly a mark of distinction.

Next day the captain went ashore again, and found in the
crowd old Geogy and a son of his, who soon made him wnder-
stand that they wanted to dine with him. Accordingly he brought
them and two more on board, and conducted them all over the
ship, which they viewed with great surprise and attention. They
happened to have for their entertainment 2 kind of a pie


































































VIEW IN TANNA.












THE SECOND VOVAGE., 229

pudding made of plantains, and some sort of greens which they
had obtained from one of the natives. On this, and on yams,
they made a hearty dinner. In the afternoon, each of them
having received a present of a hatchet and spike-nail and some
medals, they were conducted on shore.

On the roth the captain, finding a good number of the natives
collected about the landing-place as usual, distributed among
them all the articles he had with him, and then went on board
for more. In less than an hour he returned, just as the people
were getting some large logs into the boat. At the same time
four or five of the natives stepped forward to see what they were
‘about, and as they did not allow them to come within certain
limits, unless to pass along the beach, the sentry ordered them
back, which they readily complied with. At this time Captain
Cook, having his eyes fixed on them, observed the sentry present
his piece, and was just going to reprove him for it, when, to his
unmeasured astonishment, the sentry fired.

At this outrage most of the people fled. As they ran off,
Captain Cook observed one man fall, when he was immediately
lifted up by two others, who took him into the water, washed his
wound, and then led him off. Soon after some men came and
described to the captain the nature of the wound, upon which he
sent for the surgeon. As soon as he arrived the captain went
with him to the man, whom they found expiring, The ball had
struck his left arm, which was much shattered, and then entered
his body by the short ribs, one of which was broken.

The sentry who fired pretended that a man had laid an arrow
across his bow and was going to shoot at him; but this was
no more than they had always done, and with no other view than
to show that they were armed also ; at least there was teason to
‘think so, as they never went farther. This affair threw the
natives into the utmost consternation, and the few that were pre-
vailed on to stay, ran to the plantations and brought cocoa-nuts
and other fruits, which they laid down at their feet as a peace-
offering. When the captain went on board to dinner, they all
retired, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, among whom
was Paowang. He promised to bring fruit the next morning,
but their early departure put it out of his power.
230 COOK’S VOYAGES.

These people had not the least knowledge of iron, and cloth
would be of no use to them, as they went naked. Hogs, which
were plentiful, and some few fowls, are the only domestic animals
they have. Land birds are not more numerous than at Otaheite
and the other islands; but they met with some small birds of
very beautiful plumage, which they had never seen before.
Captain Cook neither saw any sort of fishing-tackle amongst them,
nor any one out fishing, except on the shoals, or along the
shores of the harbour, where they would watch to strike with a
dart such fish as came within their reach ; and in this they were
expert. They seemed much to admire the European manner of
catching fish with a seine. These people are of middle size,
rather slender than otherwise; and most of them have good
features and agreeable countenances. They never assisted the
Europeans in any work they were engaged in, and made the
women perform the most laborious duties. A woman has been
seen carrying a large bundle under her arm, and a fellow strutting
before her, with nothing but a club, or spear, or some such thing.
Both sexes are of a very dark colour, but not black; nor have
they the least characteristic of the negro about them. They use
pigments of black, red, and brown, which they lay on with a
liberal hand, not only on the face, but on the neck, shoulders,
and breast. The men wear nothing but a belt and a wrapping
leaf. The women have a kind of petticoat, made of the filaments
of the plantain tree, flags, or some such thing, which reaches
below the knee. Both sexes wear ornaments, such as bracelets,
ear-rings, necklaces, and amulets.

On the 2oth of August the Resolution put to sea, standing to
the eastward. Nothing material occurred till the 4th of Septem-
ber, when looking S.E., the coast seemed to terminate in a high
promontory, which the captain named Cape Colnet after one of
his midshipmen, who first discovered this land. On the following
day some gaps or openings were seen along the coast, and after
running two leagues down the outside of the reef, they came to
an opening that had the appearance of a good channel. With the
view of landing to observe the eclipse of the sun, which was about
to happen, they hoisted out two armed boats, and sent them to
sound the channel; ten or twelve large sailing canoes, which they
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 231



had observed coming off from the shore all the morning, from
different parts, being then near them. The boats having made a
signal for a channel, they stood in. They had hardly got to an
anchor before they were surrounded by a great number of the
natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, most of whom were without
weapons. At first they were shy of coming near the ship; but in
a short time the people in one boat were prevailed upon to get
close enough to receive some presents. They were lowered down
to them by a rope, to which in return they tied two fish, which
smelt intolerably. These mutual exchanges bringing on a kind of
confidence, two ventured on board the ship; and presently after
she was filled with them, and they had the company of several at
dinner in the cabin. Like all the natives they had lately seen, the
men were almost naked. They were curious in examining every
part of the ship, which they viewed with uncommon attention.
They had not the least knowledge of goats, hogs, dogs, or cats,
and had not even a name for one of them. They seemed fond of
large spike-nails and pieces of red cloth, or indeed any other
colour, but red was their favourite.

After dinner the captain went on shore with two armed boats,
accompanied by one of the natives, who had attached himself to
him. They landed on a sandy beach, before a vast number’ of
people, who had assembled with no other intent than to see them,
for many of them had not a stick in their hands ; the Englishmen
were received with great courtesy, and with many expressions of
surprise. The captain made presents to all those his new friend
pointed out, who were either old men or such as seemed to be of
some note; but he took not the least notice of a few women who
stood behind the crowd, keeping back the captain’s hand when
he was going to give them some beads and medals. Here they

‘found a chief, whose name was Teabooma, and they had only
been on shore ten minutes when he called for silence. Being
instantly obeyed by every individual present, he made a short
speech; and soon after another chief, having called for silence, made
a speech also. It was pleasing to see with what attention they were
heard. Their speeches were composed of short sentences, to each
of which two or three old men answered by nodding their heads
and giving a grunt of approval. It was impossible for our country-
232 COOK’S VOYAGES.

men to know the purport of these speeches, but they had reason
to think they were favourable to them. On inquiring for water,
the natives conducted them about two miles round the coast to a
little straggling village near some mangroves, where they landed
and were shown fresh water. The ground near this village was
finely cultivated, being laid out in plantations of sugar-canes,
plantains, yams, and other roots. They heard the crowing of
cocks but saw none. As they proceeded up the creek, Mr. Foster
having shot a duck flying over their heads, which was the first use
these people saw made of firearms, the native whom Captain Cook
distinguished by the name of his friend, begged to have it, and
when he landed told his countrymen in what manner it was killed.
The day being far spent, they took leave of the people and got on
board a little after sunset.

Next morning they were visited by some hundreds of the natives,
so that before ten o’clock their decks, and all other parts of the
ship, were quite full. The captain’s friend, who was of the number,
brought him a few roots, and some of the others had with them
their arms, such as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for
nails, pieces of cloth, and other articles. Next day, Mr. Wales,
accompanied by Lieutenant Clerke, went to make preparations
for observing the eclipse of the sun, which was to happen in the
afternoon.

On the 8th the captain received a message acquainting him
that Teabooma the chief was come with a present consisting of a
few yams and sugar-canes. In return he sent him, among other
articles, a couple of dogs, both young, but nearly full grown.
Early next morning Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert were
sent with the launch and cutter to explore the coast to the west.

On the evening of the 11th the boats returned; the cutter
having nearly been lost by suddenly filling with water, which
obliged them to throw several things overboard before they could
free her and stop the leak. From a fishing-canoe which they met
coming in from the reefs, they got as much fish as they could eat,
and they were received by Teabi, the chief of the isle of Bolabea,
with great courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, they
drew a line on the ground, and gave the natives to understand
that they were not to come within it. This restriction they


































































































































































































TEABOOMA ADDRESSING THE NATIVES.



THE SECOND VOYAGE. 235



observed, and one of them soon after turned it to his own
advantage, for, happening to have a few cocoa-nuts which one of
the sailors wanted to buy, he walked off and was followed by the
man who wanted them. On seeing this he sat down on the sand,
made a line round him as he had seen them do, and signified
that the other was not to come within it, which was accordingly
observed.

On the afternoon of the 12th the captain went on shore, and
on a large tree, which stood close to the shore near the watering-
place, had an inscription cut, setting forth the ship’s name, date,
and other particulars, as a testimony of their having been the first
discoverers of this island. This being done, they took leave of
the natives, and returned on board, when all the boats were
hoisted in, in order to be ready to put to sea in the morning.

The people of the island are strong, robust, active, and well
made ; they are also courteous and friendly, and not in the least
addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other
people in this sea. They are nearly of the same colour as the
natives of Tanna, but have better features, more agreeable coun-
tenances, and are a much stouter race: a few being seen who
measured six feet four inches. Their hair and beards are in
general black. The former is very much frizzled, so that at first
sight it appears like that of a negro. Their only covering is a
wrapper, made generally of the bark of a tree, but sometimes of
leaves. The small pieces of cloth and paper which they got, were
generally applied to this use. Some had a kind of concave,
cylindrical, stiff black cap, which appeared to be a great ornament
among them, and were only worn by men of note or warriors.
Their houses, or, at least, most of them, are circular and some-
thing like a beehive. The entrance is bya small door, or long
square hole, just big enough to admit a man bent double. In
most of them they found two fireplaces, and as there was no vent
for the smoke but the door, the whole house was both smoky and
hot, rendering it unendurable. They have no great variety of
household utensils, earthen jars being the only article worth
notice. Each family has at least one of them, in which they bake
their roots and, perhaps, their fish. They subsist chiefly on roots
and fish, and the bark of a tree, which they roast, and are almost
236 COOK’S VOYAGES.



continually chewing. Water is their only liquor. Nature has
been less bountiful to this than to any other tropical island known
in this sea, the greater part of its surface consisting of barren,
rocky mountains ; nevertheless, there are several plants common
to the eastern and northern islands, and every day brought to light
_ something new in botany or some other branches of natural
history.

All their endeavours to get the name of the whole island proved
ineffectual, for upon making inquiry, the people gave them the
name of some district or place; hence Captain Cook imagines
that the country is divided into several districts, each governed
by a chief; Balade was the name of the district they were at, and
Teabooma the chief. Tea seems to be a title prefixed to the
names of all, or most of their chiefs and great men. The captain
was, by one of their great men, called Tea Cook. Their fishing
implements are turtle nets, made of the filaments of the plantain
tree twisted, and small hand nets, with very minute meshes, made
of fine twine. Everything being in readiness to put to sea, at
sunrise on the 13th of September they weighed anchor.

Nothing remarkable occurred till the evening of the 28th, when
two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they were
connected by breakers, it became necessary to haul: off, in order
to get clear of them. Soon after more breakers appeared, extend-
ing from the low isles to agreat distance. They spent the night in
making short boards, under the terrible apprehension, every
moment, of falling on some of the dangers which surrounded them.
Daylight showed that their fears were not ill-founded, and that
they had been in the most imminent danger, having had breakers
continually under their lee, and at a very little distance from
them. They owed their safety to the interposition of Providence,
a good look-out, and the brisk manner in which the ship was
managed, an officer “conning” her from the mast-head.

With great difficulty they arrived within a mile of land, and
having anchored in twenty-nine fathoms of water, hoisted out a
boat, in which the captain went ashore, accompanied by the
botanists. Here they found several tall trees, which had been
observed before at a considerable distance ; they appeared to be
a kind of spruce pine, very suitable for spars, of which they were
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 237



in want. After making this discovery, they hastened on board, in
order to give more time after dinner, when they landed again in
the boats, to cut down such trees as were wanting. This little
isle upon which they landed was a mere sand-bank, not exceeding
three-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines,
grew the Etos tree of Otaheite ; also a variety of trees, shrubs,
and plants. These gave sufficient employment to the botanists
all the time they stayed upon it, and occasioned the captain’s
calling it Botany Isle. Several fireplaces with branches and leaves,
very little decayed, showed that people had lately been on the
isle. The hull of a canoe also lay wrecked-in the sand. Having
got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boats,
masts, etc., and night approaching, they returned on board.

The purpose for which they anchored under this isle being
answered, it was necessary to consider what was next to be done.
They had, from the topmast-head, taken a view of the sea around,
and observed the whole, to’ the west, to be strewed with small
islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent of their
horizon. This induced the captain to try to get without the
shoals.

Next morning, at daybreak, the goth of September, they got
under sail, and met with no occurrences worthy of remark for
several days. In the evening of the 8th of October, Mr. Cooper
having struck a porpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring
to and lower the boats before they could kill it and get it on
board. It was six feet long, and had eighty-eight teeth in each
jaw. The flesh was first soaked in warm water, and then roasted,
boiled, and fried. Indeed, little preparation was necessary to
make anything fresh and palatable to people who had been living
so long on salt meat.

On the roth, at daybreak, they discovered land, bearing S.W.,
which on a nearer approach they found to be an island of good
elevation, and five leagues in circuit. It was named Norfolk Isle,
in honour of the noble family of Howard. After dinner a party
embarked in two boats and landed without difficulty behind some
large rocks which lined part of the coast. They found it un-
inhabited, and were, undoubtedly, the first that ever set foot on
it. They observed several trees and plants common to New


238 COOK’S VOYAGES.



Zealand, and in particular the flax plant, which is rather more
luxuriant here than in any part of that country; but the chief
produce is a species of spruce, resembling the Quebec pine, which
grows in abundance and to a large size, being as thick, breast
high, as two men could embrace, and exceedingly straight and
tall. For about 200 yards from the shore the ground. is covered
so thick with shrubs and plants as to be almost impenetrable.
The woods were perfectly clear and free from underwood, and the
soil seemed rich and deep. They found the same kind of pigeons,
parrots, and parroquets as in New Zealand, also rails and some
small birds. The sea-fowl breed undisturbed on the shores and
in the cliffs of the rocks. On the isle is fresh water, and cabbage
palm, wood sorrel, sow thistle, and samphire abound in some
places on the shore ; they brought on board as much of each sort
as the limited time at their disposal would permit.

After leaving Norfolk Isle they steered for New Zealand, in-
tending to touch at Queen Charlotte’s Sound to refresh the crew,
and place the ship in a condition to encounter the southern
latitudes. On the 17th, at daybreak, they saw Mount Egmont,
which was covered with perennial snow. On the 18th they
anchored before Ship Cove, and in the afternoon Captain Cook
went into the Cove with the seine to try and catch some fish.
The first thing he did after landing was to look for the bottle he
had left when last here, in which was the memorandum. It was
taken away, but by whom it did not appear. The hauls with the
seine, producing only four, small fish, they in some measure made
up for this deficiency by shooting several birds. There being
little wind next morning they weighed, and warped the ship into
the cove, and there moored. Here the forge was erected, and
the ship and rigging repaired. The captain gave orders that
vegetables should be boiled every morning, with oatmeal and
portable broth, for breakfast, and with peas and broth every day
for dinner, for the whole crew, over and above their usual allow-
ance of salt meat. In the afternoon, as Mr. Wales was setting up
his observatory, he discovered that several trees, which were
standing when they last sailed from that place, had been cut down
with saws and axes. It was, therefore, now no longer to be
doubted that the Adventure had been in this cove after they left it.
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 239

Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morn-
ing, two canoes were seen coming down the Sound, but as soon as
its occupants perceived the ship they retired. After breakfast
they went in a boat to look for them, and as they proceeded
along the shore shot several birds. The report of the muskets
gave notice of their approach, and the natives discovered them-
selves in Shag Cove by hallooing to them. The moment they
landed the natives knew them, and the rest hurried out of the
woods and embraced them over and over again, leaping and
skipping about like madmen ; but it was observed that they would
not suffer some women, whom they saw at a distance, to come
near them. After they had made them presents of hatchets,
knives, and what else they had with them, the natives gave in
return a large quantity of fish, which they had just caught. Next
morning, early, the inhabitants paid them a visit on board, and
brought with them a quantity of fine fish, which they exchanged
for Otaheitean cloth. On the 28th a party went shooting to West
Bay, and came to the place where they left the hogs and fowls,
but saw no vestiges of them, nor of anybody having been there
since. In the evening they brought on board about a dozen and
a half of wild fowl, and the sportsmen, who had been out in the
woods near the ship, were most successful among the small birds.

On the 6th of November, their old friends having taken up
their abode near them, one named Pedro (a man of some note)
made the captain a present of a staff of honour, such as the chiefs
generally carry. In return, he dressed him in a suit of old clothes,
of which he was not a little proud. Having got this person and
another into a communicative mood, he began to inquire of them
if the Adventure had been there during his absence ; and they
gave him to understand, in a manner which admitted of no doubt,
that soon after they were gone, she arrived, and after a stay of
between ten and twenty days, had left ten months before. On the
8th they put the pigs on shore, in the cove next to Cannibal Cove,
for the purpose of stocking the country. On the goth, the natives
having brought a very seasonable supply of fish, the captain pre-
sented Pedro with an empty oil-jar, which made him as happy as
a prince. In the afternoon a party went on shore into one of the
coves, where were two families of the natives variously employed ;
240 COOK'S VOYAGES.

some sleeping, some making mats, some roasting fish and fire-roots,
and one girl was busy heating stones. As soon as the stones
were hot, she took them out of the fire, and gave them to an old
woman sitting in a hut, who placed them in a heap, laid over them
a handful of green celery, and over that a coarse mat, and then
squatted herself down on her heels on the top of all, thus making
a kind of Dutch warming-pan, on which she sat as close as a hare
on her seat. The captain thought it was to cure some disorder
. she might have on her, which the steam arising from the green
celery might be a specific for.

On the roth of November they took their farewell of New Zea-
land, and steered for Cape Campbell. Captain Cook’s intention
now was to cross this vast ocean, so as to pass over those parts
which were left unexplored in the preceding summer. On Satur-
day, the 17th of December, they made the land, about six leagues
distant. On this discovery, they wore and brought to with the
ship’s head to the south ; and having sounded, found seventy-five
fathoms of water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now be-
fore them could be no other than the west coast of Terra del
Fuego, and near the west entrance of the Straits of Magellan.
This was the first run they had made directly across the ocean,
in a high southern latitude. The captain says he never made a
passage anywhere of such length where so few interesting cir-
cumstances occurred ; for, the variation of the compass excepted,
he met with nothing else worth notice. Here they took leave of
the South Pacific Ocean.

On the 18th of December, as they continued sailing along, with
the coast about two leagues distant, they passed a projecting point
which was called Cape Gloucester. On the 2oth, at noon, they
observed York Minster, then five leagues distant. At ten o’clock
a breeze springing up at E. by S., they took this opportunity to
stand in for the land and to recruit their stock of wood and water,
and take a closer view of the country. Having found plenty of
wood and water, they set about doing what was necessary to the
ship, the outside of which had become very foul. During the
night a melancholy accident befell one of the marines, who was
supposed to have fallen overboard out of the head, where he had
been last seen.
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 241

On the 23rd Mr. Pickersgill was sent in the cutter to explore
the east side of the sound, with an intent to survey the island
under which they were at anchor, which the captain called Shag
Island. About seven in the evening he returned, and reported
that the land opposite to their station was an island, and that
between it and the east head lay a cove in which were many
geese. This information induced them to make up two shooting:
parties next day, Mr. Pickersgill and his associates going in the
cutter, and the captain and the botanists in the pinnace. Mr.
Pickersgill went in one direction and the captain in another, and
they had sport enough among the geese, whence this was called
Goose Island. There being a high surf, they found great
difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when
they were landed, so that hundreds of geese escaped, some into
the sea, and others up into the land. ‘They, however, succeeded
in bagging sixty-two, with which they returned on board, all
heartily tired. Mr. Pickersgill and his associates had got on
board some time before with fourteen geese, which were dis-
tributed among the whole crew, and were most acceptable, on
account of the approaching festival, as without the geese their
Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork.

The next morning, the 25th, some of the natives paid them a
visit. They are a little, ugly, halfstarved, beardless race, and
were almost naked, their only clothing being a seal-skin. They
had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons,
made of bone, and fitted toa staff. Their persons and everything
they wore smelt most intolerably of train oil. The women and
children remained in their canoes, which were made of bark, and
each contained a fire, over which the poor creatures huddled
together. They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides, to
‘shelter them when at sea, and to serve as coverings to their huts
on shore, and occasionally to be used as sails. The natives all
retired béfore dinner—indeed, no one invited them to stay, as
their dirty persons were enough to spoil the appetite of any
European, which would have been a real disappointment to the
ship’s company, who had not experienced such fare for some time.
Roast and boiled geese, and goose pie, was a treat little known to

them ; and they had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the
Q
242 COOK’S VOYAGES.



only article of consumption that was improved by keeping, so
that their friends in England did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas
more cheerfully than they did. In commemoration of the day
this place was named Christmas Sound. Next day the natives
paid another visit, and it being distressing to see them stand
trembling and naked on the deck, the captain humanely gave
them some baize and old canvas to cover themselves. The wild
fowl consist of geese, ducks, shags, and a kind of duck, called by
the sailors racehorses, on account of the great swiftness with which
they run on the water, for they cannot fly, their wings being too
short to support the body in the air. The geese, too, are much
smaller than the English tame geese, but eat as well. They have
short black bills and yellow feet; the gander is all white, the
female spotted black and white, or grey, with a large spot on each
wing. Captain Cook was of opinion that of all the nations he
had seen, these people seemed to be the most wretched. They
are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in
the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves
with such conveniences as may render life, in some measure, more
comfortable.

On the 28th they weighed and stood out to sea, resuming their
course to the east, and the next day passed Cape Horn, and
entered the South Atlantic Ocean. From Cape Horn they stood
over for Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the
north. Before this they had hoisted their colours and fired two
guns, and soon after they saw smoke rise out of the woods above
the south point of the bay, supposed to be from a native encamp-
ment. As soon as they got off the bay, Lieutenant Pickersgill
went to see if any traces remained of the Adventure, but he saw
not the least signs of any ship having been there lately. The
captain had inscribed the ship’s name on a card, which he nailed
to a tree at the place where the Zxdeavour watered. Inthe morn-
ing, at three o’clock, they bore up for the east end of Staten Land,
where they arrived in the afternoon of the following day. After
dinner, they hoisted out three boats and landed with a large party
of men; some to kill seals, others to catch or kill birds, fish, or
whatever came in their way. To find the former it mattered not
where they landed, for the whole shore was covered with them ;






























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































A FUEGIAN SETTLEMENT,



YHE SECOND VOYAGE. 248

and by the noise they made, one would have thought the island
was stocked with cows and calves. On landing they found they
were a different animal from seals, but in shape and motion
exactly resembling them. ‘The sailors called them lions, on ac-
count of the great resemblance the male had to that beast. Here
were also the same kind of seals which they found in New Zealand,
generally known by the name of sea-bears; at least, they gave
them that name. They were in general so tame, or rather stupid,
as to suffer the sailors to come near enough to knock them down
with sticks ; but the larger ones were shot, as it was not thought
safe to approach them. ‘They also found on the island penguins,
shags, geese, and ducks, some birds of prey, and a few small
birds. In the evening they returned on board with plenty of
spoil.

Next day, being the first of January, 1775; finding that nothing
was wanting but a good harbour to make this a tolerable place
for ships, which chance or design might bring hither to recruit,
Mr. Gilbert went over to Staten Land in the cutter, to look for a
good harbour. The captain also sent two other boats, which
returned laden with sea-lions and sea-bears. The old lions and
sea-bears were killed, chiefly for the sake of their blubber or fat,
to make oil of ; for, except their haslets, which were tolerable, the
flesh was too rank to be eaten with any degree of relish. But the
young cubs were very palatable: and even the flesh of some of
the old lionesses was not indifferent. About ten o'clock, Mr.
Gilbert returned from Staten Land, where he found a good port,
situated three leagues to the westward of Cape St. John. It is
almost two miles in length, and in some places nearly a mile
broad. On this island were sea-lions and seals, and such a
_ quantity of gulls, as to darken the air when disturbed. In honour

of the day on which this port was discovered, Captain Cook
called it New Year’s Harbour.

‘The sea-lions found here were not of the kind described under
the same name by Lord Anson; but these would more properly
deserve that appellation, the long hair with which the back of the
head, the neck, and shoulders are covered, giving them greatly
the air and appearance of a lion. The female is not half so big
as the male, and is covered with short hair, of an ash or light dun
246 COOK’S VOVAGES.



colour. They live, as it were, in herds, on the rocks and near the
seashore. ‘The sea-bears are not nearly so large as the lions, but
rather larger than a common seal. They have no mane, their
hair being all of an equal length, and finer than that of the lion,
and of an iron-grey colour. It was not at all dangerous to go
among them, for they either fled or lay still. The only danger
was, in going between them and the sea, for, if they took fright at
anything, they would come down in such numbers, that, if you
could not get out of their way, you would be run over. The
oceanic birds are gulls, tern, Port Egmont hens, and a large brown
bird of the size of an albatross, which the sailors called Mother
Carey’s geese, and found them pretty good eating. The land birds
were eagles, or hawks, bald-headed vultures, or what the sailors
called turkey buzzards, thrushes, and a few other small birds. It
excited Captain Cook’s astonishment to see how amicably the
different animals which inhabit this place lived together. The
‘sea-lions occupy most of the coast; the sea-bears take up their
abode in the isle ; the shags have post in the highest cliffs; the
penguins fix their quarters where there is the most easy com-
munication with the sea; and the other birds choose more re-
tired places. Captain Cook says he has seen these animals mix
together like domestic cattle and poultry in a farmyard, without
one attempting to molest the other. Having left the land on the
evening of the 3rd, they saw it again next morning, bearing west.

On the 14th, at nine o’clock in the morning, they descried what
they at first thought was an iceberg, but-it turned out to be land
almost wholly covered with snow. On the 16th they began to
explore the northern coast, and the next morning made sail for
the land. As soon as they drew near the shore, Captain Cook
proceeded in a boat, accompanied by Mr. Foster and his party,
with a view of reconnoitring before they ventured in with the ship,
which they afterwards considered unadvisable, as the appearance
of the interior was barren and inhospitable. The wild rocks
raised their lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and the
valleys lay covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be
seen, or a shrub even big enough to make a tooth-pick. . Since
their arrival on this coast, the captain, in addition to the common
allowance, ordered wheat to be boiled every morning for break-
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 247



fast: but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by most on board
to salt; even the flesh of the penguin, being fresh, was sufficient
to make it palatable. They called that bay Possession Bay. As
soon as the boat was hoisted in they made sail along the coast to
the east for a distance of eleven or twelve leagues, to a projecting
point, which obtained the name of Cape Saunders. Beyond this
cape is a pretty large bay, which was named Cumberland Bay.
On the 2zoth they fell in with an island, which they named Isle of
Georgia, in honour of his majesty. It extends thirty-one leagues
in length, with a breadth of about ten leagues. It seems to
abound with bays and harbours, the N.E. coast especially, though
the vast quantity of ice on the coast renders them inaccessible the
greater part of the year.

From the 2oth to the 27th they had a continuation of foggy
weather. Growing tired of high southern latitudes, where nothing
was to be found but ice and thick fogs, Captain Cook stood to
the east, and soon fell in with a vast number of large icebergs,
and a sea strewed with loose ice, which induced him to tack and
stand to the west, with the wind at north. The icebergs which
at this time surrounded them, were nearly all of equal height, and
showed a flat even surface. On the 1st of February they sighted
a new coast. It proved a high promontory, which was named
Cape Montagu, but prudence would not permit them to venture
near the shore, as there was no anchorage, and every port was
blocked or filled up with ice ; indeed, the whole country, from the
summits of the mountains down to the very brink of the cliffs
which terminate the coast, appeared to be covered with perpetual
snow. It was now necessary to sight land to the north, before
they proceeded any further to the east. On the ard they saw two
isles, and in honour of the day on which they were discovered,
they named them Candlemas Isles. They were of no great ex-
tent, but of considerable height, and were covered with snow.
On the 4th they resumed their course to the east. About noon
they met with several icebergs and some loose ice, the weather
continuing hazy, with snow and rain. The risk of exploring a
coast in these unknown and icy seas is so very great, that Captain
Cook expressed an opinion that no navigator would ever venture
further than he did on this occasion, and that lands which may lie
248 COOK’S VOYAGES.

to the south would never be explored. In this view of the future
of Antarctic exploration the gallant seaman was wrong, however ;
for the late Admiral Sir James Ross penetrated to S. lat. 78° 4’,
and discovered a continent.

Captain Cook rightly considered it would have been rash to
have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in discover-
ing a coast which, when unexplored, would have answered no
end whatever, or been of the least use either to navigation or
geography ; and, besides, neither the ship nor the crew were in
a condition to undertake arduous tasks, nor indeed was there
time, had they been ever so well provided. These reasons in-
duced the captain to alter his course to the east, with a very
strong gale at north, attended with an exceedingly heavy fall of
snow, which lodged in their sails in such quantities that they were
frequently obliged to throw the ship up in the wind to shake it
out of them.

On the roth the weather became fair, but piercingly cold, so
that the water on deck was frozen, and at noon the mercury in
the thermometer was no higher than thirty-four degrees and a
half. On the 22nd of February, as they were within two degrees
of longitude from their route to the south when they left the
Cape of Good Hope, it was of no use proceeding any further
to the east under this parallel, as they knew that no land could
be there. They had now made the circuit of the Southern
Ocean ina high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as
to make the existence of a continent, in Captain Cook’s opinion,
unless near the pole, out of the reach of navigation. By twice
visiting the tropical seas, they had not only settled the situation
ef some old discoveries, but made there many new ones, and left
very little more to be done in that part. Thus the intention of
the voyage was in every respect fully answered, the southern

_ hemisphere sufficiently explored, and an end put, for the present,
to the search after a southern continent.

Their sails and rigging were so much worn that something was
giving way every hour, and they had nothing left either to repair
or replace them. Their provisions were in a state of decay, and
yielded little nourishment, and they had been a long time without
fresh food. The sailors, indeed, were still healthy, and would

THE SECOND VOYAGE 249



have cheerfully gone wherever they were led ; but they dreaded
the scurvy laying hold of them at a time when they had nothing
left to remove it. It would, however, have been cruel to have
continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually ex-
posed to, longer than was absolutely necessary; and their
behaviour throughout the whole voyage merited every indulgence
which it was possible to give them. Animated by the conduct
of the officers, they showed themselves capable of surmounting
every difficulty and danger which came in their way, and never
once looked either upon one or the other as being at all
heightened by their separation from their consort, the Adventure.

On the 8th of March the mercury, in the afternoon, rose to
61°, and they found it necessary to put on lighter clothing. On
the rath they lowered a boat, and shot some albatrosses and
petrels, which at this time were highly acceptable. Every one
had now become impatient to get into port, which induced
Captain Cook to yield to the general wish and steer for the Cape
of Good Hope. He now demanded of the officers and petty
officers the log-books and journals they had kept, which were
accordingly delivered to him, and sealed up for the inspection of
the Admiralty. He also enjoined on them and the crew not to
divulge where they had been till they had received their lordship’s
permission to do so.

On the evening of the 17th they saw land about six leagues
distant. Next day, having little or no wind, they hoisted out a
boat and sent on board a ship which was about two leagues
distant, though they were too impatient after news to regard the
length of the pull. Soon after three more sail appeared in sight
to windward, one of which showed English colours. The boat
returning reported that they had visited a Dutch East Indiaman,
' whose captain very obligingly offered them sugar, arrack, and
whatever he had to spare. They were told by some English
seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at
the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew
of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the natives
of New Zealand. ss

On the roth, the Zrue Briton, Captain Broadley, from China,
bore down upon them. As this ship did not intend to touch at
250 COOK’S VOYAGES.



the Cape, the captain put a letter on board for the Secretary of
the Admiralty. The melancholy account they had heard of the
Adventure was now confirmed. From this ship they procured
a parcel of old newspapers, which were new to them, and gave
them some amusement ; but these were the least favours they re-
ceived from Captain Broadley. With a generosity peculiar to the:
commanders of the East India Company’s ships, he sent them
fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were very acceptable.
In the afternoon they parted company, the Zrue Briton standing
out to sea, and they in for the land. The next morning, being
with them Wednesday, the 22nd, but with the people here
Tuesday, the 21st, they anchored in Table Bay, where they
found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, Captain
Neate, an English East India Company’s ship, from China, bound
direct to England, by whom they sent to the Admiralty a copy of
the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and other draw-
ings. Before they had well got to an anchor, Captain Cook
dispatched an officer to acquaint the governor with his arrival,
and to request the necessary stores and provisions, which were:
readily granted.

The captain now learned that the Adventure had called here
on her return, and he found a letter from Captain Furneaux
acquainting him with the loss of his boat and of ten of his best
men in Queen Charlotte’s Sound. Afterwards, on his arrival in
England, he put into Captain Cook’s hand a complete narrative
of his proceedings from the time of their second and final
separation, which is here detailed to complete the history of the:
voyage.

In October, 1773, they were blown off the coast of New
Zealand, when they. parted company with the Resolution, and
never saw her afterwards. They encountered violent storms till
the 8th of November, when, being to the north of Cape Palliser,
they bore away for some bay to complete their water and wood,
each man being put on an allowance of one quart of water for
some days past, and the supply at that rate being only sufficient
for six or seven days longer. They anchored at Tolaga Bay,
where wood and water were easily obtained. The natives here
are the same as those at Queen Charlotte’s Sound, but more-
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 251



numerous. In one of their canoes they observed the head of a
woman lying in state, adorned with feathers and other ornaments.
It had the appearance of being alive, but on examination they
found it dry, being preserved with every feature perfect, and kept
as the relic of some deceased relation. Having got about ten
tons of water and some wood, they sailed for Queen Charlotte's.
Sound on the 12th; but violent weather prevented them from
reaching it till the 30th. They saw nothing of the Resolution,
and began to doubt her safety ; but on going on shore, discerned.
the place where she had erected her tents; and on an old stump
of a tree in the garden, observed these words cut out, “ Look
underneath.” There they dug, and soon found a bottle, corked
and waxed down, containing a letter from Captain Cook, signifying
his arrival on the 3rd instant, and departure on the 24th, and
that he intended spending a few days in the entrance of the
straits to look for them. They immediately set about the
necessary repairs of the ship, which employed them till the 16th

of December.
Next day they sent the large cutter with Mr. Rowe, a midship-

man, and the boat’s crew, to gather wild greens for the ship’s
company, with orders to return that evening, as they intended to
sail early the next morning. As nothing was heard of the boat
that evening, nor the next morning, the second lieutenant, Mr.
Burney, went in search of her in the launch manned with the
boat’s crew and ten marines. Mr. Burney returned about eleven
o’clock the same night, and informed them of a horrible scene,
which cannot be better described than in his own words :—

“On the 18th we left the ship, and having a light breeze in our
favour, we soon got round Long Island. I examined every cove
on the larboard-hand as we went along, looking well all round
with a telescope. At half-past one we stopped at a beach on the
left-hand side going up Easy Bay, to boil some victuals. Whilst
we were cooking I saw an Indian on the opposite shore, running
swiftly along the beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being
dressed, we got into the boat and put off, and in a short time ar-
rived at the head of this beach, where we saw an Indian settlement.

“As we drew near, some of the Indians came down to the
rocks and waved for us to be gone; but seeing we disregarded
252 COOK’S VOYAGES.



them, they. desisted. Here we found six large canoes hauled up
‘on the beach, most of them double ones, and a great many
people. Leaving the boat’s crew to guard the boat, I stepped
-ashore with the marines (the corporal and five men) and searched
many of their houses, but found nothing to give me any suspicion.
Coming down to the beach, one of the Indians had brought a
bundle of hepatoos (long spears), but seeing I looked very
earnestly at him, he put them on the ground and walked about
with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be
frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to
another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess,
a good mile. I looked all around with the glass, but saw no
boat, canoe, or any sign of inhabitants. I therefore contented
myself with firing some guns, which I had done in every cove as
I went along.

“TIT now kept close to the east shore, and came to another
‘settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. I inquired of
them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They ap-
peared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour
after we left this place, on a small beach adjoining Grass Cove,
we saw a very large double canoe just hauled up, with two men
and adog. The men, on seeing us, left their canoe, and ran up
into the woods. This gave me reason to suspect I should here
‘get tidings of the cutter. We went ashore, searched the canoe,
and found one of the rowlock-ports of the cutter and some shoes,
one of which was known to belong to Mr. Woodhouse, one of
our midshipmen. One of the people at the same time brought
me a piece of meat, which he took to be some of the salt meat
belonging to the cutter’s crew. On examining this, and smelling
it, I found it be fresh. Mr. Fannin (the master), who was with
me, supposed it was dog’s flesh, and I was of the same opinion,
for I still doubted their being cannibals. But we were soon con-
vinced by the most horrid and undeniable proof.

“A great many baskets (about twenty) lying on the beach tied
up, we cut them open. Some were full of roasted flesh, and some
of fern-root, which serves them for bread. On further search we
found more shoes and a hand, which we immediately knew to
have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our forecastlemen, it being

THE SECOND VOYAGE. 253:



marked ‘T. H.’ with an Otaheitean tatoo instrument. I went
with some of the people a little way into the woods, but saw
nothing else. Coming down again there was a round spot,
covered with fresh earth, about four feet in diameter, where some-
thing had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dig with
a cutlass, and in the meantime I launched the canoe with intent
to destroy her; but seeing a great smoke ascending over the
nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made all the
haste I could to be with them before sunset.

“On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four
canoes and a great many people on the beach, who, on our ap-
proach, retreated to a small hill about a ship’s length from the
waterside, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was on
the top of the high land beyond the woods, whence, all the way
down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. The savages
on the hill still kept hallooing, and making signs for us to land.
However, as soon as we got close in we all fired. The first volley
did not seem to effect them much; but on the second they began
to scramble away as fast as they could, some of them howling.
We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of
them through the bushes. Among the Indians were two very
stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves.
forsaken by their companions, and then marched away with great
composure and deliberation; their pride not suffering them to
tun. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there or
crawled away on all-fours. The other got clear, without any
apparent hurt. I then landed with the marines, and Mr. Fannin
stayed to guard the boat.

“On the beach were two bundles of celery which had been
gathered for loading the cutter. A broken oar was stuck upright
inthe ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes, a proof
that the canoes had been made here. I then searched all along
at the back of the beach to see if the cutter was there. We found
no boat, but instead of her, we saw such a shocking scene of
carnage and barbarity as never caa be mentioned or thought of
but with horror ; for the heads, hearts, and lungs of several of our
people were seen lying on the beach, and, at a little distance, the
dogs gnawing their entrails.
254 COOK’S VOVAGES.



“Whilst we remained almost stupefied on the spot, Mr. Fannin
called to us that he heard the savages gathering together in the
woods : on which I returned to the boat, and hauling alongside
the canoes, we demolished three of them. Whilst this was
transacting, the fire on the top of the hill disappeared, and we
could hear the Indians in the woods at high words; 1 suppose
quarrelling whether they should attack us, and try to save their
canoes. It now grew dark; I therefore just stepped out and
looked once more behind the beach, to see if the cutter had been
hauled up in the bushes, but seeing nothing of her, returned and
put off. Our whole force would have been barely sufficient to
have gone up the hill; and to have ventured with half (for half
must have been left to guard the boat) would have been foolhardi-
ness. As we opened the upper part of the Sound, we saw a very
large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a
complete oval, reaching from the top of the hill down almost to
the waterside, the middle space being enclosed all round by the
fire like a hedge. I consulted with Mr. Fannin, and we were
both of opinion that we could expect to reap no other advantage
than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages.
Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of
East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling. We lay on
cour oars and listened, but heard no more of it; we hallooed
several times, but to little purpose, the poor souls were far enough
out of hearing; and, indeed, I think it some comfort to reflect
that, in all probability, every man of them must have been killed
on the spot.”

Thus far Mr. Burney’s report, and to complete the account of
this tragical transaction, it may not be unnecessary to mention
that the people in the cutter were :—Mr. Rowe, Mr. Woodhouse ;
Francis Murphy, quartermaster; William Facey, Thomas Hill,
Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, forecastle-men; John Cave-
naugh and Thomas Miller, belonging to the afterguard; and
James Savilly, the captain’s man ; being ten in all. Most of these
were the Adventure’s very best seamen, the stoutest and most
healthy men in the ship. Mr. Burney’s party brought on board
two hands; one belonged to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt he had
received on it, and the other to Thomas Hill, as before mentioned ;
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 255



-also the head of the captain’s servant. These, with more of the
-remains, were tied in a hammock and ‘thrown overboard, with
ballast and shot sufficient to sink it.

In all probability this unhappy business originated in some
quarrel, which was decided on the spot, or want of due caution
on the part of the seamen might have tempted the natives to
‘seize the opportunity of satisfying their inhuman appetites. They
were detained in the Sound by contrary winds, four days after
this melancholy affair happened, during which time they saw
none of the inhabitants. On the 23rd they weighed and sailed
out of the Sound and stood to the eastward, but were baffled for
two or three days by light winds before they could clear the coast.
On the roth of January, 1774, they arrived abreast of Cape Horn.
They were little more than a month sailing from Cape Palliser,
in New Zealand, to Cape Horn, which is r21 degrees of longitude.
On opening some casks of peas and flour that had been stowed
on the coals, they found them very much damaged, and not eatable,
so thought it most prudent to make for the Cape of Good Hope.
On the 17th of February they made the land off the Cape, and
-on the roth anchored in Table Bay, where they found Commodore
Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty’s ships Salisbury and Sea
Horse. On the 16th of April Captain Furneaux sailed for England,
and on the 14th of July anchored at Spithead.

We now return to Captain Cook. The day after his arrival at
the Cape of Good Hope he waited on the governor, Baron Pletten-
berg, and other principal officers, who received and treated them
with the greatest politeness. Captain Cook had only three men
on board whom it was thought necessary to send on shore for the
recovery of their health, and for these were provided victuals,
drink, and lodging at the rate or thirty stivers, or half-a-crown, per
day. On examining the rudder, it was found necessary to unhang
it and take it on shore for repairs. They were also delayed for
want of caulkers; but at length, obtaining two workmen from
one of the Dutch ships, and the Dutton, English East Indiaman,
coming in from Bengal, Captain Price obliged Captain Cook
with his men, so that by the 26th of April this work was finished.
Having taken on board all necessary stores and a fresh supply
of provisions and water, they took leave of the governor
256 COOK’S VOYAGES.

and other chief personages, and the next morning repaired on
board.

As soon as they were under sail, Captain Cook saluted the
garrison with thirteen guns, which compliment was immediately
returned with the same number. A Spanish frigate and a Danish
Indiaman both saluted them as they passed, and Captain Cook
returned each salute with an equal number of guns. At day-
break on the morning of the 16th May they saw the island of
St. Helena, fourteen leagues distant, and at midnight anchored in
the roadstead before the town. Governor Skettow and the prin-
cipal gentlemen of the island received and treated the captain
during his stay with the greatest politeness. Some necessary
repairs of the ship, which they had no time to do at the Cape,
were completed here, and the empty water casks were filled, and
the crew were regaled with fresh beef purchased at 5d. per lb.

On the 21st of May the captain took leave of the governor, and
repaired on board under a salute of thirteen guns, which he re-
turned. On the morning of the 28th they made the island of
Ascension, and the same evening anchored in Cross Bay. They
remained here till the evening of the 31st, and notwithstanding
they had several parties out every night, got but thirty-four turtles,
it being rather too late in the season ; however, as they weighed
between 400 and 500 lbs. each, they were pretty well off. The
island of Ascension, which is about ten miles in length, by about
five or six in breadth, has a surface composed of barren hills and
valleys, in most of which not a shrub or plant is to be seen for
several miles, but only stones and ashes in plenty, an indubitable
sign of its having been destroyed bya volcano. A high mountain
at the south-east side of the isle seems to be left in its original
state, and to have escaped the general destruction. Its soil is a
kind of white marl, which yet retains its vegetative qualities, and
produces some grasses, on which the goats, only found on this
part of the isle, subsist.

While they lay in the roads, a sloop belonging to Bermuda had
sailed but a few days before with 105 turtles on board, which was
as many as she could take in; but having turned several more on
the different sandy beaches, they had ripped open their bellies,
taken out the eggs, and left the carcases to putrefy, an act as in-
THE SECOND VOYAGE. 257

human as injurious to those who came after them. Turtle, it 1s
said, are to be found at this island from January to June. The
method of catching is to have people on watch in the several
sandy bays for their coming on shore to lay their eggs, which is
always in the night, and then to turn them on their backs, till an
opportunity offers to take them off the next day.

On the 31st of May Captain Cook left Ascension and steered
to the northward. He had a great desire to visit the island of St.
Matthew, to settle its situation ; but as they found the wind was
not favourable, they steered for the island of Fernando de Noronha,
on the coast of Brazil, in order to determine its longitude. On
the 9th of June, at noon, they made that place, distant six or seven
leagues ; it appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of
which looked like a church tower or steeple. When they arrived
in the roads a gun was fired from one of the forts, and the Portu-
guese colours were displayed, an example followed by all the other
forts. Having speedily ascertained the longitude, they bore away
without landing.

By the 18th they got the N.E. trade-wind, attended with fair
weather, with occasional light showers of rain; and as they
advanced to the north the wind increased and blew a fresh top-
gallant gale. On the 21st the captain ordered the still to be fitted
to the largest copper, which held about sixty-four gallons.

The fire was lighted at four o’clock in the morning, and at six
the still began to run. It was continued till six in the evening,
by which time they obtained thirty-two gallons of fresh water, with
an expenditure of one bushel and a half of coals, which was about
three-fourths of a bushel more than was necessary to have boiled
the ship’s company’s victuals only; but the expense of the fuel
was no object with them.

Nothing worth mentioning happened till the 13th of July, when
they made the island of Fayal, one of the Azores, and soon after
that of Pico. At daybreak the next morning, they bore away for
the Bay of Fayal, or De Horta, in which they anchored at eight
o'clock. The sole design of stopping here was to give Mr. Wales
an opportunity to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable
them to fix, with some degree of certainty, the longitude of these

islands. The moment they anchored, the captain sent an officer
R


258 COOK’S VOYAGES.

to wait on the English consul, and to notify his arrival, requesting
permission for Mr. Wales to make observations on shore. Mr.
Dent, who acted as consul, not only procured this permission of
the governor, but accommodated Mr. Wales with a convenient
place in his garden to set up his instruments ; and, indeed, enter-
tained all the officers in the most liberal and hospitable manner.
During their stay the ship’s company was served with fresh beef ;
and they took on board about fifteen tons of water, which they
brought off in the country boats, at the rate of about three shillings
per ton.

The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with
which they supply Pico and some other isles. The chief town,
called Villa de Horta, is situated close to the sea, and is defended
by two castles, one at each end of the town, connected by a stone
wall. This little city, like all others belonging to the Portuguese,
is crowded with religious buildings.

Having left the bay on the morning of the 19th, they steered
for the island of ‘Terceira, in order to ascertain its length; but the
weather coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching,
they gave up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for

ingland. On the zgth of July they made the land near Plymouth.

The next morning they anchored at Spithead ; and the same day
Captain Cook landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London in
company with Messrs. Hodges, Wales, and the two Fosters.

During her absence from England of three years and eighteen
days, and under all changes of climate, the Resolution lost but
four men, and only one of them by sickness, an immunity which
Captain. Cook attributes, under the care of Providence, to the
following causes: the crew were furnished, as an antiscorbutic,
with a quantity of malt, of which were made sweet-wort ; to such
of the men as showed the least symptoms of scurvy, from one to
two or three pints a day were given to each man, or in such pro-
portion as the surgeon found necessary. Sour-krout, of which
they had a large quantity, is a wholesome vegetable food, also
highly antiscrobutic, and it does not spoil by keeping ; a pound
of this was served to each man, when at sea, twice a week, or
oftener, as was thought necessary. Portable broth was another
useful article of which they had a small supply. An ounce of this.
































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































THE LIZARD.



LHE SECOND VOYAGE. ; 201



to each man was boiled in their peas three days a week, and when
they were in places where vegetables were to be got, it was boiled
with them, and wheat or oatmeal every morning for breakfast,
and also with peas and vegetables for dinner. The surgeon also
made use of rob of lemons and oranges, in many cases with great
success. But the introduction of the most salutary articles, either
as provisions or medicines, will generally prove unsuccessful unless
supported by certain regulations. On this principle, many years’
experience, together with some hints the captain had from other
intelligent officers, enabled him to provide a plan whereby all
were to be governed. ‘The crew were divided into three watches,
except when all hands were called up on some extraordinary
occasions. By this means they were less exposed to the weather
than if they had been at watch and watch, and could change their
clothes when they happened to get wet. Proper methods were
used to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, and clothes con-:
stantly clean and dry. Equal care was taken to keep the ship
clean and dry between decks. Once or twice a week she was
aired with fires; and when this could not be done, she was
smoked with gunpowder, mixed with vinegar or water. They also
frequently had a fire made in an iron pot at the bottom of the
well, which was of great use in purifying the air in the lower parts
of the ship.

Captain Cook concludes his account of this his second voyage
round the world as follows: “ It doth not become me to say how
far the principal objects of our voyage have been attained. Had
we found out a continent there, we might have been better
enabled to gratify curiosity ; but we hope our not having found it,
after all our persevering researches, will leave less room for future
speculation about unknown worlds remaining to be explored.
Whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is
with real satisfaction and without claiming any merit, but that of
attention to my duty, that I conclude this account with an ob-
servation, which facts enable me to make, that our having dis-
covered the possibility of preserving health among a numerous
ship’s company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of
climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will
make this voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent
262 COOK’S VOYAGES.

person, when the dispute about a southern continent shall have
ceased to occupy the attention and to divide the judgment of
philosophers.”

Though Captain Cook was mistaken in thinking that he had
established the fact of the non-existence of a southern continent
within the reach of navigation, yet during this second voyage he
discovered New Caledonia, one of the largest islands in the South
Pacific, except New Zealand ; the island of Georgia, and an un-
known coast which he named Sandwich Land, the Thule of the
southern hemisphere ; and having twice visited the tropical seas,
he settled the situations of the old and made several new dis-
coveries.




THE THIRD AND LAST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN
COOK.

To show the importance of the discoveries of Captain Cook, and
to furnish some idea of the magnitude of his services to geo-
graphical science, it may be proper to take a cursory view of that
untrodden ground which former enterprising discoverers visited.
A brief recapitulation of the results of their expeditions will evince
how much the intrepid naval officers of our own country have
extended our acquaintance with the globe, opened new channels
for the acquisition of knowledge, and afforded fresh materials for
the study of human nature in its multiform aspects.

Columbus and Magellan, two illustrious foreigners, rendered
their names immortal at an early period. The former, by a per-
severance of which there was no precedent, providentially sur-
mounted every obstacle that opposed his progress, and gave to
Europe a new continent; for though he was not the actual
discoverer of America, by his voyage to San Salvador he established
the fact of the existence of lands in the Western Ocean, and
fired the minds of explorers scarcely less gifted with genius and
undaunted courage ‘than himself. Much about the same time,
Magellan, inspired by a like spirit of enterprise, and animated by
a magnanimity that despised danger, opened a passage to a new
sea, to which he gave the name of Pacific.

On the 6th of November, 1520, Magellan entered the straits
that have ever since been called by his name, and on the 27th of
the same month beheld the wished-for object of his pursuit, the
great Southern Ocean. For one hundred and thirteen days he
continued steering to the north-west, and having in that time
crossed the line, he fell in with those islands to which he gave the
name of Ladrones ; and, proceeding from thence in search of the
Moluccas, he found in his way many little islands, where he was

hospitably received, and where a friendly intercourse was estab-
262
es)
264 COOK’S VOYAGES.

lished. ‘These islands were situated between the Ladrones and
what are now known by the name of the Philippines, in one. of
which, called Nathan, Magellan, encountering a-whole army with
sixty men, was first wounded with a poisoned arrow and then
pierced with a bearded lance. His little squadron, now reduced
to two ships and not more than eighty men, departed hastily ; but
only one, the Victory, returned by the Cape of Good Hope, and
was the first ship that ever went round the world. Other ad-
venturers were now not wanting to follow the steps of this intrepid
navigator.

In 1567, Alverez de Mendamo, another Spaniard, was sent
from Lima on a voyage of discovery. He sailed 800 leagues
westward from the coast of Peru, and fell in with certain islands
in latitude 11° S., which Captain Cook inclined to the opinion
were the cluster since called New Britain.

Mendamo was also said to have discovered, in 1575, the island
of St. Christoval, and not far from hence the archipelago called
the Solomon Islands, of which he counted thirty-three, great and
small.

In 1577, Francis Drake, who was the first Englishman to pass
‘the Straits of Magellan, discovered California, which he named
New Albion. He also discovered some small islands on his route
to the forty-third degree of north latitude; but as his sole view
was to return with his booty, he paid no regard to objects of less
concern. He arrived in England by the Cape of Good Hope, in
the year 1580. In this year Sir Thomas Cavendish also passed
the Straits of Magellan and returned nearly by the same route as
his predecessor, touching at the Ladrones, and making some stay
at the Philippine Isles, of which on his return he gave an enter-
taining description.

In 1595, the Spaniards, intent more on discovery than plunder,
fitted out four ships, and gave the command to Alvaro Mendana
de Neyra. His discoveries were the Mendana, or Marquesas,
Solitary Island, and Santa Cruz. Most of those who embarked
on this expedition either died miserably or were shipwrecked.

In 1598, Oliver Van Noort passed the Straits, but made no
discoveries ; in this year, also, the Sebaldine Islands were dis-
covered by Sebald de Wert, the same now known as the Falkland
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 265

Isles. In 160s, Pedro Fernando de Quiros conceived the design
of discovering a southern continent. He is supposed by Dalrymple
and others to have been the first into whose mind the existence of
such a continent had ever entered. On the 31st of December he
sailed from Callao with two ships and a tender. Luis Paz de
Torres was intrusted with the command, and Quiros, from his
zeal for the success of the undertaking, was content to act in the
inferior station of pilot. Quiros, soon after his return, presented
a memorial to Philip II. of Spain, in which he enumerates twenty-
three islands that he had discovered, among which was the island
of the Virgin Mary, and adjoining it the country called Australia
del Espiritu Santo, in which land were found the bays of St.
Philip and St. Jago.

In 1614, George Spitzbergen, with a strong squadron of Dutch
ships, passed the Straits of Magellan; and on the 14th of June in
the following year, Schouten, and Le Maire, in the Unety, of 360
tons, and the Hoorn, of 110 tons, sailed from the Texel, professedly
for the discovery of a new passage to the South Sea. The Hoorn
was burnt in careening at King’s Island, on the coast of Brazil,
and the other left singly to pursue her voyage. In lat. 54° 56’
they came in sight of an opening, to which (having happily passed
it) they gave the name of Strait Le Maire. Having soon after
this weathered the southernmost point of the American continent,
they called that promontory Cape Horn, or more properly Hoorn,
after the town in Holland, where the project was first secretly
‘concerted ; and the two islands which they had passed they
named Bernevelt. They also discovered several others, and
coasted the north side of New Britain.

In 1642, Abel Tasman sailed from Batavia in the Heemskirk,
accompanied by the Zee Haan pink, with a design of discovering
‘a southern continent. The first land he made was that since
known by the name of Tasmania, or Van Diemen’s Land. Pro-
ceeding in a high latitude to the eastward, he fell in with the
westernmost coast of New Zealand, where most of the crew were
murdered by the savages of a bay, which he called Murderers’
Bay, subsequently named by our navigators Queen Charlotte's
Sound. In his passage he fell in with the isles of Pylstaert,
Amsterdam, Middleburg, and Rotterdam. Then directing his
266 COOK’S VOYAGES,

course to the N.W., he discovered eighteen or twenty small islands,
to which he gave the name of Prince William’s Islands and
Heemskirk’s Banks. From thence Tasman pursued his course to
New Guinea, without discovering the supposed continent, and
returned to Batavia on the 15th of June, 1643.

In 1681, Dampier passed the Magellan Straits, and in 1699 he
made a second voyage of discovery, which was chiefly confined to.
New Holland, New Guinea, New Britain, and the islands adjacent.
Tn 1703, he performed a third voyage, but without making any
new discoveries.

In 1721, the Dutch East India Company, at the instance of
Captain Roggewein, fitted out a small fleet for the discovery of
that continent which was hitherto unknown, though believed
universally to exist. Three stout ships were appointed, and were
well provided for this service, the Zagle, of 36 guns and 111 men;
on board of which embarked Captain Roggewein as commodore;
having under him Captain Coster; the Zvenhoven, of 28 guns and
100 men, of which Captain Bowman was commander; and the
African, galley, commanded by Captain Rosenthal. From these
experienced navigators everything was hoped. They found the
Straits of Magellan impracticable, and entered the Southern Ocean,
after having endured a variety of difficulties and hardships, by the
Straits of Le Maire. Roggewein pursued nearly the same track
as Schoten had pointed out, till, veering more to the north, he
fell in with the islands on which Commodore Byron first landed.
Pursuing their course to the westward, they discovered a cluster
of islands, undoubtedly the same as those now called the Friendly
Isles, to which they gave the name of the Labyrinth, because it
was with difficulty they could clear them. They continued their
course towards New Britain and New Guinea, and thence by the
way of the Moluccas to the East Indies.

In 1738, Lazier Bouvet was sent by the French East India
Company upon a voyage of discovery in the South Atlantic
Ocean. He sailed from Port ‘FOrient on the roth of July, on
board the Hagle, accompanied by the Mary, and on the ist of
_January following, discovered what he thought was land in 54° S.
lat. 11 E. long., though Captain Cook diligently sought for it, but
an vain. Between the years 1740-44 Lord Anson performed his
THE THIRD VOYAGE. 207

famous voyage of circumnavigation, but he made no discoveries of
importance.

‘The spirit of nautical research recovered new strength under
the patronage and munificent encouragement of King George the.
Third, who, having succeeded to the throne at the time this.
country had raised herself to the pinnacle of glory by her successes
in three continents, turned his attention to enterprises more-
adapted to the season of returning peace. His Majesty formed
the grand design of exploring the southern hemisphere, and in the-
prosecution of an object so well adapted to the views of a great
commercial people, one voyage followed another in close suc-
cession.

In 1764, Captain, afterwards Admiral, Byron, having under his
command the Dolphin and Tamar, passed through the Straits of
Magellan into the Pacific Ocean, where he discovered several
islands, and returned to England in May, 1768. In the month
of August following, the Dolphin was again sent out under the
command of Captain Wallis, with the Swallow sloop, commanded
by Captain Carteret. They proceeded together till they came to.
the west end of the Straits of Magellan, and in sight of the great
South Sea, where they were separated. Captain Wallis directed
his course more westerly than any navigator had done before in
so high a latitude ; discovered no less than fourteen new islands,
and returned to England with the Dolphin in May, 1768. His
companion, Captain Carteret, kept a different route and made
other discoveries, among which was the strait between New Britain
and New Ireland. He returned to England in the Swallow, after
having encountered innumerable difficulties, in March, 1769. In
the same year and month, Commodore Bougainville, having cir-
-cumnavigated the globe, arrived in France.

In 1769 the Spaniards sent out a ship to trace the discoveries.
of the English and French commanders, which arrived at Otaheite
in 1771, and touched at Easter Island. In the same year, 1769,
the French also fitted out another ship from the Mauritius, under |
the command of Captain Kergulen, who, having discovered a few
barren islands, contented himself with leaving some memorials
that were found by Captain Cook. ‘To this latter distinguished
navigator was reserved the honour of being the first to construct a
268 COOK’S VOYAGES.

-chart of the southern extremity of America, from a series of the
most satisfactory observations, beginning at the west entrance of
the Straits of Magellan, and carried on with unwearied perseverance
round Terra del Fuego through the Straits of Le Maire.

We have seen how Captain Cook, on his first voyage, returned
home by the Cape of Good Hope in July, 1771, and again, how
this experienced circumnavigator performed his second voyage in
the Resolution, which sailed from England in July, 1772, and
returned on the goth of the same month in 1775. The general
object of this and the preceding voyage round the world, was to
search for unknown tracts of land that might exist within the
bosom of the immense expanse of ocean that occupies the southern
hemisphere, and to determine the existence or non-existence of a<