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HISTORY OF
JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
and Vicinity
1513 to 1924
By
T. FREDERICK DAVIS
Author of
"History of Early Jacksonville"
Published by
THE FLORIDA HISTORICAL SOCIETY
1926
----------------L- --^- --
Copyright 1925
All Rights Reserved
by
T. FREDERICK DAVIS
tSee last paragraph of Foreword)
Press of
The Record Company, St. Augustine, Florida
FOREWORD
Two times there was a wholesale destruction of Jackson-
ville's official records-in the War Between the States and
by the fire of May 3, 1901. The author's effort in this work
was to collect all of the available authentic matter for per-
manent preservation in book form. The record closes as of
December 31, 1924.
The record is derived from many sources-long forgotten
books and pamphlets; old letters and diaries that have been
stored away as family memorials of the past; newspapers
beginning with the St. Augustine Herald in 1822 (on fileat the
Congressional Library at Washington) fragmentary for the
early years, but extremely valuable for historical research;
almost a complete file of local newspapers from 1875 to date;
from the unpublished statements of old residents of condi-
tions and outstanding events within the period of their clear
recollection; and from a multitude of other sources of reli-
ability. The search through the highways and the byways
for local history was in the spare moments of the author
stretching over a period of a score of years, a pastime
"hobby" with no idea of making money out of it. No attempt
has been made to discuss the merits of any incident, but
only to present the facts, just as they were and just as they
are, from the records and sources indicated.
It is an unwritten law of copyright to give credit for the
use of another's record or research in any publication. Such
acknowledgment is made herein by connecting marks in the
text leading to footnotes and to the bibliographies found at
the end of each chapter. The use of the single asterisk (*)
is reserved to indicate observations or remarks by the author
of this history thrown into the text as little sidelights con-
nected with the subject. This publication is fully protected
under copyright with all rights reserved by the author; how-
ever it is not his desire to restrict its use as a reference his-
tory, and the courtesy of the unwritten law referred to above
is extended to those who may find use for it.
T. FREDERICK DAVIS.
Jacksonville, Florida.
ILLUSTRATIONS
(Face page noted)
Maps Page
St. Johns River, Jacksonville to the ocean............. 1
Fort Caroline and vicinity....:.................... 13
Kings Road through site of Jacksonville............. 26
Jacksonville as originally surveyed in 1822........... 55
Child's map of Jacksonville, 1847 .................... 85
Built-up portion of Jacksonville in the 1850's.......... 87
Map of Jacksonville, 1859........................ 115
Railroad map of Jacksonville, 1884.................. 356
Map of area burned in 1891...................... 193
Map of area burned in 1901......................... 225
Illustrations
Where the "Vale of Laudonniere" used to be.......... 12
Huguenot ring found in an Indian mound............. 17
Dwellings of the log-cabin period ................... 68
Vicinity of Forsyth and Main Streets in 1874 ........ 141
Freedmen's Bank building...................... 141
Saloon of a St. Johns River steamboat, 1885.......... 363
Bird's-eye view of Jacksonville, 1886 .............. 172
Seal of Jacksonville................... .. .. ... .. 293
First factory-made automobile in Florida............. 379
Fire burning Jacksonville in 1901 ................... 219
Jacksonville in ashes, 1901, panorama view........... 244
St. James Hotel, burned in 1901 .................... 487
City Hall burned in 1901.......................... 332
County Courthouse, burned in 1901 ................ 64
County Clerk's Office, burned in 1901............... 65
County Armory, burned in 1901.................... 474
Sky-line of Jacksonville in 1908.................... 244
Flag of Jacksonville.............................. 422
Block plan of St. Luke's Hospital .................... 426
Sky-line of Jacksonville, 1914-1924.................. 244
Airplane view of modern Jacksonville................ 284
ST. JOHNS RIVER, JACKSONVILLE TO THE OCEAN
SCALE OFMILES
HISTORY OF
JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER I
THE OPENING OF OUR HISTORY
March 27, 1513, was Easter Sunday, Pascua Florida in
the language of the Spaniard. Along the stretch that we
now call the Florida east coast north of Canaveral the
weather was stormy and the sea was running high. Off shore
three caravels lingered with sails reefed down, for land had
been sighted that day and the adventurers aboard, wishing
to investigate, hove to for the weather to calm. They loi-
tered northerly along the coast a week; then they headed in,
and in the night, April 2, came to anchor near the beach.
Here the commander with his principal officers formally
landed, probably at sunrise of April 3d. Throwing the royal
banner of Spain to the breeze they declared allegiance to the
crown and proclaimed possession of the country, which they
supposed was an island, in the name of Ferdinand, their king.
Following the custom of that day to commemorate impor-
tant events with the names of feast days or patron Saints,
in this case, because the discovery was made on Easter Sun-
day, they named the new land Florida.
This scene on the beach was the landing of Juan Ponce
de Leon and the opening of the positive history of the white
man in North America. Fortunately, Ponce de Leon recorded
the location of his landing and as it is the only record the
observation 30 degrees and 8 minutes latitude must forever
designate the locality where he first landed on the soil of
Florida. Laid down on the map today, the location is about
11 miles south of the pier at Pablo Beach and within 25 miles
of Jacksonville straight away.
It would appear that the existence of flowers here had
nothing to do with naming the country. The native flora of
the coastal beach section is there today, and one would wonder
what Ponce de Leon, coming from verdant Porto Rico, could
have seen to cause the enthusiasm attributed to him by history
writers. The embellishment of the record to the effect that
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
"the land was fresh in the bloom of Spring and the fields were
covered with flowers" is pretty and pleasing, but it does not
conform to the circumstances as we know them now in the
early part of April even in the mildest season.
There is no record that Ponce de Leon explored the coun-
try away from the coast. He found nothing here to lead him
to suspect the existence of gold and precious metals in the
country; and incidentally, no spring the waters of which
possessed the qualities of restoring health and vigor, that
tradition said existed somewhere in this part of the world.
He did not tarry long. Boarding his vessels on the 8th of
April, he soon turned back, struggling against the currents
of the gulf stream in his progress southward.
From the top of the sand dunes in that locality the eye
rests upon what appear to be refreshing woodlands. They
are the oases hiding from view that stretch of marsh behind the
dunes known as "The Guana," beginning seven miles below
Pablo Beach and extending south toward the mouth of the
North River at St. Augustine. Those who have been in "The
Guana" duck hunting and waded the mud flats and network of
marsh creeks there know from experience why Ponce de Leon
remained on the beach near his vessels and did not attempt to
penetrate the interior at this point.
Indians of That Dayt
The natives of the Florida peninsula in Columbian times
comprised a number of tribes, each governed by a different
chief. They did not live in constant peace and harmony with
one another and sometimes were engaged in bitter tribal
wars. This part of Florida was occupied by the Timuqua or
Timucua tribe, whose domain reached from the St. Marys
River to the headwaters of the St. Johns, but principally
along the lower St. Johns.
The costumes of the Timuquas were scanty, being scarce-
ly more than a loin-cloth of buckskin for the men and for the
women a fringe of Spanish moss tied around the waist. Both
men and women painted their bodies in fantastic fashion;
both wore heavy stone ornaments suspended from the lobes
of their ears which they pierced for the purpose. The men
wore their hair drawn to a peak at the top of their heads and
t Bulletin of U. S. Bureau of Ethnology.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 3
tied like a topknot. The women wore no head decoration and
left their hair flowing, except in cases of the death of a rela-
tive or friend they "bobbed" their hair as a token of distress.
A chief or headman decorated himself with the tail of a
raccoon or a fox drooping from the peak at the top of his
head; deer-hoof rattles dangled from his loin-cloth, while
suspended from his neck on a buckskin string a large shell
disc six inches or more in diameter was sometimes worn.
These Indians were tall of stature, muscular and very
strong. They were an agricultural people, raising crops of
maize and vegetables and tilling their fields with implements
of wood and shell. Tobacco was known to them and they
used it as an emetic in cases of sickness. Among their cere-
monials was the "Busk Ceremony," sometimes referred to
as the "Green Corn Dance," which lasted several days with
a distinct ritual for each day. It was a harvest festival
and celebration, but included ceremonials of penitence for
crime within the tribe, as well as supplication for protection
against injury from without. Their war ceremonies and cele-
brations of victory were on the order of those of the early
Creek Indians and doubtless originated in a common source.
These were the people in possession of this part of Flor-
ida when Ponce de Leon arrived. They were not the Semi-
noles of a later day.
It may safely be assumed that the visit of Ponce de Leon
left a lasting impression on the minds of the natives and
that long afterward when they were in sight of the ocean
they would look out to sea for the strange objects that
brought the pale-face to their shore. A generation was born,
grew up, and passed into middle age, yet these had not re-
turned. Reports had now and then sifted through from the
lower coasts that the white man had been down there, or
from the direction of the setting sun that he had passed that
way; they had heard of pale-faced people held captive by
neighboring tribes, and had knowledge of one even among
themselves several days' journey away; but it was not until
the approach of the 50th annual harvest after Ponce de
Leon's time that runners announced the return of the white
man's vessels to this coast of Florida.
4 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The French Arrive
Gaspard de Coligny, Admiral of France and champion of
the cause of the Huguenots, visualized the new land across
the sea as a place where his unhappy countrymen might live
according to their own ideals and at the same time build up
a new dominion by colonization, thereby extending the pos-
sessions of France. It was a dream of colonization upon the
republican principle of freedom of thought; but in it also
was another idea that of conquest. Coligny had already
attempted to plant such a colony in South America, in the
harbor of Rio Janeiro, but it had perished. However, he
did not despair, and early in 1562 he despatched another ex-
pedition of two vessels from Havre de Grace to seek a place
of settlement for the colony that was to follow. The com-
mand of these vessels was given to Jean Ribault, a native of
Dieppe and a Huguenot.
Ribault's name was spelled in different ways by the
historians of the 16th and 17th centuries. French-Ribauldus
(rare), Ribauld, Ribault, Ribaut; the form with the "1" is the
older. Spanish-Ribao. English-Ribault.
Second in command of this expedition was Rene Goulaine
\de Laudonniere, likewise a Huguenot. Ribault steered a new
course across the Atlantic north of the West Indies and came
in sight of the Florida coast near the present site of St. Au-
gustine on the last day of April. The weather being favor-
able he sailed northward and just before sunset came to the
mouth of a large river (the St. Johns), but did not enter it.
He anchored outside the bar.
At dawn the next day, which was May 1, 1562, Ribault
and several officers and soldiers crossed the bar in their
shallops (large rowboats with a number of oarsmen) for the
purpose of exploring the river. They soon saw natives com-
ing down to the bank of the river in a friendly manner, even
pointing out to them the best place to land. Ribault and his
party went ashore. An Indian approached and Ribault gave
him a looking-glass. He ran with it to his chief, who took off
his girdle and sent it to Ribault as a token of friendship. The
two parties now approached each other. The natives greeted
the white men with dignity and without indication of fear.
After the greeting, the Frenchmen retired a short distance,
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
prostrated themselves, and gave thanks to God for their safe
arrival.
This was the first Protestant prayer said within the
limits of the United States; it cannot be positively stated that
it was the first in North America, since there might have been
Protestants with Roberval in Canada twenty years before. It
was certainly not the first in the new world, for Coligny
planted a Huguenot colony in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro in
1555, seven years before, and in 1557 sent out 4 Protestant
ministers to preach there. The South American colony existed
until 1560.
The natives watched the ceremony of the Frenchmen in
perfect silence. When it was over, Ribault pointed his finger
upward to indicate to them that the white man worshipped
a Supreme Being. The chief, supposing that he meant the
sun, pointed two fingers upward signifying worship of both
sun and moon by them.
Captain Ribault was much pleased with the manners and
appearance of these natives. He says of them, "They be of
goodly stature, mighty, fair, and as well shapen and propor-
tioned of body as any people in the world; very gentle, cour-
teous, and of good nature. The forepart of their body be
painted with pretty devised works, of azure, red, and black,
so well and so properly as the best painter of Europe could
not amend it. The women have their bodies painted, too,
and wear a certain herb like unto moss, whereof the cedar
and all other trees be almost covered. The men for pleasure
do trim themselves therewith, after sundry fashions."
It has been said that the Spanish or gray moss is not
native here, but the foregoing description is strong evidence
that it is.
These ceremonies took place on the north side of the
river, where Ribault spent the forenoon. Distributing pres-
ents among the natives and receiving in exchange fresh fish,
which the Indians skillfully caught in reed nets, the French-
men crossed over to the south side. The natives of the south
side met Ribault in a friendly manner and offered fruit; but
they seemed more suspicious than those of the north side,
as they did not bring their women with them and had with
them their bows and arrows. A few presents satisfied them,
6 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
however, and the Frenchmen were allowed to go about un-
molested.
Ribault was greatly impressed with the natural growth
on this side of the river. Trees, shrubs, plants and vines all
excited his interest and wonder. His relation mentions
grapes "of surpassing goodness" and vines that grew to the
top of the tallest oaks; palms, cedar, cypress and bay trees.
The Frenchmen spent the afternoon wandering over the
high land near the mouth of the river. Toward sundown they
again entered their shallops and returned to the ships out-
side the bar.
Ribault Proclaims Possession
The next day (May 2d) the small boats were manned and
Ribault, his officers and gentlemen again entered the river
and brought with them a "pillar or column of hard stone
with the King's arms engraven thereon, to plant and set the
same at the entry of the port, in some place, where it might
be easily seen" (from boats entering the river). Coming to
land on the south side, they selected a suitable spot on a little
hill; here with appropriate ceremonies the monument was
erected, and possession was taken of the country in the name
of the king of France.
Shore-line and channel conditions at the mouth of the
river have changed greatly since that day. The oldest maps
show a projection on the south side of the mouth of the river
like a protruding underlip. These primitive dunes were even-
tually washed away. A part of the lip evidently was where the
sand field is making up on the left as you approach the south
jetty on the beach, and according to many lines of reasoning
this is where the monument was set up. Le Moyne's drawing
indicates a sand dune location.
The monument was erected before any Indians appeared;
but soon they came, viewed the stone for a time in silence,
and then retired without touching it or speaking a word.
Ribault named the river the Riviere de Mai, or River May,
because his tour of exploration was made on the first day of
May. This is the only name that he bestowed at the River
May.
- The day passed very much as the preceding one, except
that the Frenchmen became greatly excited when they
noticed that some of the natives were wearing ornaments of
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
gold and silver. Ribault concluded from their signs that the
country abounded in gold and that the rivers and harbors
contained pearls of great magnitude.
*It afterward developed that these ornaments came from
the treasure ships of Spain that were wrecked on the lower
Florida coast on their voyage home from Mexico. By trade
and war the gold and other metals became scattered among
the Indian tribes elsewhere, furnishing a lure that never failed
to lead the white adventurer on.
Ribault spent the day on the south side and returned to
the ships toward sundown. The next day (May 3d) he pro-
ceeded northward and after investigating the rivers and
harbors along the way, finally reached the coast of what is
now South Carolina, where it was decided to leave a post
called Charlesfort, composed of 26 men. Ribault and Lau-
donniere then set sail for France.
It is almost unbelievable that Ribault could have sup-
posed this handful of men left in the wilderness at the mercy
of the Indians had a chance to survive.
Ribault arrived at Dieppe late in July and found civil war
raging in France. The anti-Huguenot party was in control
of the government and amidst the distraction that over-
whelmed the nation a delay of nearly two years was experi-
enced in getting another expedition together.
Meantime the garrison at Charlesfort abandoned the post
and embarked in a frail craft for home. Fortunately they
were picked up by an English vessel, but not before they
had been reduced to the horrible extremity of human
sacrifice for subsistence.
Laudonniere's Expedition
The Elizabeth of Honfleur, 120 tons; the Petit Breton, 100
tons, and the Falcon, 60 tons, with officers, soldiers, mariners,
artisans, and titled gentlemen adventurers aboard, under the
command of Rene Goulaine de Laudonniere, left France in
April, 1564, on a voyage across the Atlantic to Florida. These
vessels came upon the coast in the vicinity of the present St.
Augustine June 22d and entered the River May three days
later. Laudonniere was entertained by the same chief that
he met on the former voyage with Ribault. The stone column
was still standing and appeared to be an object of great rev-
8 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
erence to the Indians. Seeing the French approaching, as a
token of friendship, they wrapped flowering vines (appar-
ently the sea morning-glory) and wreaths of bay leaves
around the pillar, while at its base were placed baskets of
fruit and grain, together with a bow and quiver of arrows,
symbolizing welcome and peace. When the greetings were
over, Laudonniere made a short excursion up the river at
least as far as St. Johns Bluff in order to observe the coun-
try. Then he returned to the ships waiting outside and
coasted as far north as Amelia Island. He was in that vi-
cinity two or three days and held a consultation with his
officers as to the best place to make a settlement. They de-
cided to return to the River May and plant the settlement in
a "pleasant vale" on the south side of the river at the base
of the "mountain" (St. Johns Bluff) that they had already
examined, situated 21/ French leagues (approximately six
miles) above the mouth.
Laudonniere does not mention the men left at Charles-
fort two years before, and his seeming neglect of them is not
accounted for in history.
Fort Caroline
At the break of day on June 30, 1564, Laudonniere com-
manded the trumpet to be sounded. When all were assembled,
he says, "We sang a psalm of Thanksgiving unto God, be-
seeching Him that it would please Him of His Grace to con-
tinue His accustomed Goodness towards us. The prayer
ended, every man began to take courage." After measuring
off a piece of ground in the form of a triangle, all became
engaged in some duty-some cleared land, some cut fagots,
others brought earth, "for there was not a man that had not
either a shovel, or cutting hook, or hatchet, as for the build-
ing of the fort, which we did hasten with such cheerfulness
that within a few days the effect of our diligence was ap-
parent." Paracoussy (chief) Saturioua, on whose land the
fort was built, came with his two sons and a great number
of men to help.
Fort Caroline was built in the form of a triangle, its base
along the river front and its apex drawing toward the south.
The westerly side was enclosed by a trench and raised by
trusses made in the form of a battlement nine feet high. The
portcullis was on this side. The southeastern side was a kind
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
of bastion; while the northern, or river side, was enclosed
with a palisado of planks of timber. The houses were built
inside the fort. The oven was placed outside some distance
away "because the houses be of palm leaves, which will soon
be burnt after the fire catches hold of them." Laudonniere
named the fort "Caroline, in honor of our prince, King
Charles," who at that time was only a boy. At this crude
work took place some of the most tragic incidents of Amer-
ican history.
When first known to the white man St. Johns Bluff
sloped down westerly into a little plain that occupied the
cove between the present point of the bluff and Fulton. This
plain was called by the French the "Vale of Laudonniere," and
there, at the water's edge, Fort Caroline was built in order to
get water for the moat. The plain has been washed away by
the river, mainly since the jetties were built, and ships now
pass over the precise site of Fort Caroline.
In about a month Laudonniere sent the Elizabeth of
Honfleur back to France with despatches for Coligny, retain-
ing the smaller barks for use on the river.
j The story of the French at Fort Caroline is one filled with
pathos and tragedy. In the beginning all went well; they
enjoyed amicable relations with the Indians and from them
drew largely for their subsistence, themselves neglecting to
make provision for the emergencies that were bound to come
to those in such a situation. As time went on misfortunes
began to multiply as a result of this inactivity, and, nat-
urally, discontent then entered the ranks of the little band.
Serious mutinies followed. On one occasion the conspirators
seized a vessel belonging to the port and set out upon a free-
booting expedition against the Spaniards in the West Indies.
Some of the mutineers finally found their way back to the
River May, where Laudonniere had four of the ringleaders
executed. The others were captured by the Spaniards and
taken to Havana.
After awhile the Indians refused to share further of
their stores, partly because their own stock was low and
partly from the fact that nothing was given in exchange, the
French by this time having exhausted the supply of ex-
changeable articles. Being reduced to the verge of famine,
Laudonniere was induced, let it be said against his will, to
seize the great Indian Olata Utina (head chief) and hold him
10 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
as ransom for supplies. This scheme resulted disastrously
for the French, since a number of them were killed in cap-
turing the chief, while the enmity of the natives was raised
to the highest pitch. Thoroughly disheartened, they at last
decided to build a suitable vessel and return to France.
English Sea-Rover Visits Fort Caroline
Demolishing several houses and tearing away a part of
the fort for timber, work was started on the vessel designed
to take the colonists home. The construction progressed
under many difficulties, as several of the most experienced
carpenters had been killed by the Indians. Amidst these
preparations, Sir John Hawkins, returning from a slave-sell-
ing expedition along the Spanish Main, unexpectedly ap-
peared at the mouth of the River May, August 4, 1565, hav-
ing been guided along the coast by a Frenchman, who was
with Ribault on the first voyage to Florida. They were
seeking the colony at Charlesfort, but when they reached
the River May they saw two pinnaces and learned of the
circumstances and condition of Fort Caroline two English
leagues up the river. Hawkins paid a visit to the fort and
supplied the French with meat and other provisions. He sold
Laudonniere one of his vessels, taking some of the ordnance
of Fort Caroline in payment therefore. Laudonniere says,
"Moreover, for as much as he saw my soldiers go barefoot,
he offered me fifty pairs of shoes, which I accepted and
agreed of a price with him, for which until this present I am
indebted to him; for particularly he bestowed upon myself
a great jar of oil, a jar of vinegar, a barrel of olives, a great
quantity of rice and a barrel of white biscuit. Besides he
gave divers presents to the principal officers of my company,
according to their qualities; so that I may say, that we
received as many courtesies of the General as it was possible
to receive of any man."
After the departure of Hawkins, the French hurried
'their preparations for leaving Florida. By the 15th of
August (1565) everything was in readiness, and they waited
only a fair wind to hoist the sails. In this state of anxious
suspense they were detained till the 28th, when the wind
and tide became favorable and they were on the point of de-
parting; but just at that moment the sails of several vessels
were discovered at sea approaching the coast. Ribault had
arrived!
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 11
Ribault's Second Voyage
The settlement on the River May had not been forgotten
by Coligny. At the first opportunity, during a lull in the
civil war in France, he secured a royal commission for Cap-
tain Ribault to command an expedition to America. The full
quota of soldiers and volunteers was quickly brought to-
gether. Some of the men embarked with their wives and
children. The total number of emigrants was about six
hundred.
The fleet of seven vessels sailed from Dieppe in May,
1565. Experiencing adverse weather it put into several ports
and was delayed in reaching the River May until August
28th, the day that Laudonniere was preparing to leave.
Three of the vessels entered the river and proceeded to the
fort, but the four largest could not cross the bar and re-
mained at anchor outside. All of the colonists had landed and
the disembarking of supplies had been in progress several
days, when at night five Spanish ships came up from the
south and anchored near the four French ships at the mouth
of the river. The Spaniards claimed to be friendly, but the
French trusting nothing, made ready for sailing. Their
suspicions were soon verified and they cut their cables and
sailed for the open sea, with the Spanish ships in pursuit.
The chase continued until after sunrise, but the French out-
sailed their pursuers, who turned back and were in turn fol-
lowed by a French ship. Observing that the Spaniards were
landing soldiers and provisions (at St. Augustine), the
French vessel hastened to the River May to notify Ribault,
who was at Fort Caroline while all of this was going on.
When the facts were related, Ribault immediately held a
council of war. He favored attacking the Spaniards by sea
immediately, but Laudonniere opposed the plan on the
ground that it was the season of sudden storms and he
thought it would be wiser to repair the fort and await an
attack by the Spaniards. Most of the officers agreed with
Laudonniere. Ribault, however, held to his decision and
ordered the ships prepared for battle. The largest ship, the
Trinity, flagship of the fleet, having outsailed the rest had
not yet returned to the river and the attack was to be made
without her. All of the fighting men that had just arrived
together with the able-bodied of Laudonniere's force were
ordered aboard. On September 10th, the fleet sailed from the
12 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
River May on the mission of a sudden attack upon the
Spaniards. Laudonniere remained at Fort Caroline.
Ribault's fleet soon arrived off St. Augustine, having been
joined by the Trinity in the meantime. While the decks were
being cleared for action the wind died down into a complete
calm-it was the calm before a hurricane. When the wind
came again it grew rapidly into a gale from the northeast
and Ribault's ships were driven southward and scattered
down the coast.
Spaniards Plan Attack
Rumors of a French settlement in Florida reached Spain
through the court of France. These rumors were verified by
a report from Havana in an account of the mutineers from
Fort Caroline that were captured, who in order to save them-
selves divulged the secrets of the French fort on the River
May.
Spain claimed Florida by right of discovery and ex-
ploration and she seems to have had a good title to it through
Ponce de Leon, Narvaez, De Soto and other voyagers. This-
settlement on the River May incensed the Spanish king as a
foreign settlement within his dominions and he determined to
get rid of it. France and Spain at that time were not at war.
Religion furnished a good pretext and a safety-valve for the
Spanish king to act and still keep official peace with France.
f-
A royal decree was granted Pedro Menendez to fit out,
mostly at his own initial expense, an expedition designed to
destroy the French colony or drive the Frenchmen from the
shores of Florida. Such an expedition could not have been
placed in better hands for its success, as Menendez had
shown before that he was fully capable of performing the
acts with which he was charged -the brutality that the
spirit of the age in which he lived characterized as the high-
est order of heroism and religious duty?
It was a peculiar coincidence that Menendez arrived in
sight of the Florida coast on the same day that Ribault's
fleet dropped anchor at the mouth of the River May, and
the same day, too, that Laudonniere was hoisting sail to
leave the shores of Florida. Menendez sailed along the coast
and anchored off what is now St. Augustine. Here he learned
from the Indians of the situation of the French; but to
satisfy himself he went with five of his ships up the coast
Map drawn from survey y by Hurd Kooker, C. E.
3.
ST: OMNS BLUFF~
:t
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-:
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I. I -.
SI .. .
r:.~.`t-' ~ ;-,:i
Uf-;i -r -r
9. .- .. -
h1
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-: I.Si
.WE
-,4
Photographed for this history.
Courtesy of C. H. Brown
The position on the hill whence Menendez swept down upon Fort Caroline is indicated.
tously 70 feet above tide water, is around the point in the upper view, facing the mouth
that side.
The face of St. Johns Bluff, rising precipi-
of the river; there has been no erosion on
L;P Li
.-4
4Vi
9-
LOOKING SHOREWARD FROM SITE OF FORT CAROLINE
These two views joined end to end, with the point of St. Johns Bluff on the left and the hamlet of Fulton on
plete panorama of the present shore line, and the cove where Laudonniere's valley used to be.
i the right, give a com-
;i
-
.-_ L~
-I-
,7.:47r,4--
A r
ILh~s `c
P r
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 13
to reconnoiter. These were the ships that chased the French
out to sea. He had set about fortifying the place, which he
called St. Augustine, and was so engaged when Ribault's
fleet appeared off the harbor. He saw the French ships
driven southward and speculated as to their return/He
called his officers in council and laid before them a plan to
attack the French fort by land before the French vessels
should return. His officers, as in the case of Rjbault, opposed
the plan; but Menendez was determined, and on the 16th of
September he marched with a force of 500 men to attack
Fort Caroline/ Indians did not take part in this further than
acting as guides. The tempest had not ceased; rain fell in
torrents, and it was only after the severest hardships that
the Spaniards reached the vicinity of Fort Caroline after
sunset of the 19th/ Coming to a pine grove, they camped at
a low, wet place one-quarter of a league from the fort; here
Menendez assembled his captains in council. Drenched and
hungry with their powder wet and useless the Spaniards
debated the advisability of making an attack on the French
fort. Menendez was practically alone in an unswerving
desire to attack the fort, his captains opposing it and sug-
gesting the return to St. Augustine and the abandonment of
the expedition. The council lasted until the early morning
hours, and the will of Menendez prevailed.
The place where the Spaniards camped that night and
the fate of Florida was sealed is easily recognized today. The
road skirts it just before the climb to St. Johns Bluff com-
mences. It is a natural depression surrounded by hills, about
three-fourths of a mile (approximately one-fourth of a league)
southeast of the site of Fort Caroline-the only situation of
that kind anywhere in the locality.
/Before dawn, September 20th, the Spaniards began to
move closer to the fort /hey had marched only a few hun-
dred yards when amidst the rain and tempest, and the tangled
underbrush, the columns became separated and Menendez
called a halt. He interrogated a Frenchman (one of Laudon-
niere's mutineers) whom he had brought with him. The
Frenchman told him that "right over there, down below,
three arquebus shots away, was the fort, one side of which
was washed by the waters of the river." Nothing could be
clearer than this description recorded by Meras, which con-
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
firms all of the other eye-witness descriptions that the fort
was at the water's edge.
SFort Caroline Captured
At dawn the Spaniards were on the high ground over-
looking Fort Caroline. The break of day revealed no activity
of any sort; Fort Caroline was sleeping, 240 people, less than
thirty of whom knew the use of arms. Women and children,
the sick and the weak, artisans and servants these were
the people that remained with Laudonniere when Ribault's
fleet departed.
The damage done the fort in anticipation of its abandon-
ment had not been fully repaired. The Spaniards rushed
down the slope into the fort and committed an indiscrim-
inate slaughter. Some of the French were slain in their beds;
others half awake and bewildered met the same fate upon
reaching the courtyard. Women as they knelt in supplica-
tion and prayer, and little children were put to death. In the
confusion a few Frenchmen escaped and among these was
Laudonniere.
The deed was finished in less than an hour and not a
Spaniard had been killed and only one slightly wounded.
Menendez, it seems, was not at the fort when the carnage
commenced, having remained on top of the hill; but hearing
the commotion at the fort he ran down to it and observing
that his soldiers gave no quarter he ordered them in a loud
voice to kill or wound no woman, or boy under 15 years of
age, by which order 70 persons were saved.
About a month after the capture of Fort Caroline, Menen-
dez reported to the King that he still held these captives and
that it caused him deep sorrow to see them among his people.
Their ultimate fate is unknown.
Laudonniere, Le Moyne (an artist), and Challeaux, with
23 others, after suffering untold hardships in the marshes
as they tried to reach the mouth of the river, were finally
rescued by two small vessels belonging to the French, the
Pearl and the Grayhournd. In these they hastily set sail for
France. The Pearl arrived in France, but the Grayhound
with Laudonniere aboard reached port at a place in Wales.
Thence Laudonniere went to France and reported fully re-
garding the destruction of Fort Caroline, but the news was
received with indifference at the French court.
14
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 15
"Not as Frenchmen, But as Lutherans."
The familiar statement that Menendez hanged a num-
ber of Frenchmen and placarded them with a sign signifying
that he hanged them not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans, is
omitted here as history. So far as known no eye-witness re-
corded the incident of the placard. The account first appeared
in print in 1566 and apparently originated in France as prop-
aganda to arouse the feelings of Protestants in connection
with an effort to raise funds for the support of the widows and
orphans of Huguenots murdered by Menendez in Florida.
That some of the Huguenots were hanged is true, for Menen-
dez mentions the fact in his report to the king,t and along
with them two Englishmen that Hawkins had left at Fort
Caroline to assist Laudonniere; but he does not mention the
placard nor does Meras who recorded the details of the affair
with a candor that would certainly have included this incident
had it occurred.
Fate of Ribault
Ribault's fleet was buffeted by the tempest and then
wrecked along the coast above Canaveral. Practically all of
the Frenchmen reached the shore in safety, where they seem
to have gotten together in three separate parties. The two
farthest north attempted to reach Fort Caroline by march-
ing overland; but that farthest down the coast decided to
fortify and await developments.
Three days after the capture of Fort Caroline, Menendez,
leaving a garrison of 300 men there, returned to St. Augus-
tine with the balance of his force. Soon after his arrival the
Indians came in with reports of the wrecks below. He knew
that they were the French and he set out to finish the job
begun at Fort Caroline. A party of the French had marched
to Matanzas Inlet, where their progress was stopped. Me-
Snendez appeared on the opposite side. A parley ensued and
the French surrendered, understanding that their lives
would be spared.
On the pretext that he had but few soldiers with him and
these might easily be overpowered, Menendez required the
French to cross the shallow body of water in a small boat in
parties of ten. As each came over it was marched back into
the palmetto scrub out of sight. There, September 29, 1565,
the shipwrecked and defenseless Frenchmen were tied to-
tMenendez to the King: "Unwritten History of Old St. Augustine," Brooks and
Averette.
16 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
gether in pairs with their hands behind their backs and
fiendishly put to death with axe, halberd or sword. After it
was over Menendez returned to St. Augustine.
On October 12th, Menendez was at the same spot on the
same mission, as reports had reached him through the
Indians that another party of Frenchmen was there. Ribault
was with this party. Precisely the same procedure as in the
former instance was carried out. Ribault was among the last
to come over; he was struck in the back with a dagger and
fell to the ground, where two or three blows ended his life.
Meras, brother-in-law of Menendez, was an eye-witness and
he recorded the details of this horrible butchery; there is
evidence that he, personally, delivered the dagger thrust in-
to the back of Ribault.
Menendez in time reached the last party down the coast.
Upon his approach some of these Frenchmen fled to the
Indians and their ultimate fate is not clear. Of those that
surrendered, a few were taken to St. Augustine as slaves.
Huguenot Ring
The following letter from Mrs. W. H. Adams, of Atlantic
Beach, Fla., gives the circumstances of the recovery of an
extremely valuable relic connected with Fort Caroline, found
in an Indian mound near Pablo Beach a few years ago by
Elbridge Gerry Adams:
Atlantic Beach, Fla., December 12, 1924.
Mr. T. Fiederick Davis,
Jacksonville, Fla.
My dear Mr. Davis:
In reply to your note regarding the old ring in my possession, the
circumstances connected with finding the ring were these:
My son, Gerry, found the ring while digging in an Indian mound
near Pablo Beach about 1911. He, in company with several other boys,
was digging for pottery and such things. They had been digging in a
large mound, when Gerry found a small mound nearby and began
digging into one side of it. It was here that he found the old gold ring.
I kept the ring, but did not pay much attention to it until the Ribault
monument was unveiled by the D. A. R. near Mayport last spring,
when I recognized the similarity of the markings on the monument
shield to those on the ring. I would be glad to show you the ring
should you care to see it. Very sincerely,
Juliette Holt Adams.
History
By
of
T.
Jacksonville,
Frederick Davis.
HUGUENOT RING
reallyy enlarged from an original negative.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The ring is a band of about 10-kt. gold of uniform thick-
ness throughout. Measured by the modern jewelers' scale
the size is 61/, which is the size for a medium finger; the
weight is 1 dwt. The emblems are apparently hand-carved.
The single fleurs-de-lis are simply cut into the band, while
the figures in the medallions stand out upon a battered
sunken field within the oval. The accompanying illustration
shows the emblems on the ring, which appear uniformly all
the way around the band. There is no inscription inside the
band.
The certain authenticity of this find makes it at once a
most interesting subject, and being a ring the imagination nat-
urally drifts into all kinds of romance about it. There is of
course no record of how the Indian gained possession of the
ring. It may have been given to him as a present. Maybe it
was taken from the finger of a Frenchman slain at Fort Caro-
line, or from that of one of Ribault's men as he lay upon the
blood-soaked sands of Matanzas. But that it originally be-
longed to a Huguenot of Fort Caroline there is scarcely a
doubt, for the fleur-de-lis, emblem of France when the Hu-
guenots came to Florida indelibly connects it with the time
when the Lily of France was banished from Florida by the
Lion of Spain in their struggle for supremacy.$
San Mateo Fort and River
The capture of Fort Caroline having been achieved at the
time of the festival of Saint Matthew, Menendez renamed
the fort San Mateo and the river Rio de San Mateo. The
contingency, fire, that Laudonniere had so carefully guarded
against happened to the Spaniards eight days after they had
captured the fort. Through the carelessness of a soldier all
of the houses and the wooden part of the fort were burned.
The fort was rebuilt on the same site. Menendez afterward
built two small forts or observation posts on opposite sides
of the river below the great fort, as San Mateo was called.
There is evidence that Menendez soon attempted to force
the removal of Chief Saturioua to the north side of the river
on account of which it is not surprising that he incurred the
enmity of the neighboring Indian tribes. About this time a
missionary, Don Martinez, and three attendants were mur-
dered by the Indians when they landed on Fort George Island.
$The Huguenot flag bore three golden fleurs-de-lis, frequently referred to as the Lilies
of France. The Spanish flag of the period was quartered, showing in gold the Castle
of Castile and in red the Lion of Leon.
18 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Menendez led a detachment of 70 men against this chief, but
without success. The soldiers could not now venture far
beyond the protection of the forts without being harassed
by the Indians and within a year fifty or more, including a
number of officers, were killed.
The same spirit of mutiny that took hold of the French
arose among the Spanish garrisons. On one occasion all but
twenty of those in the forts on the San Mateo determined to
leave and were aboard a vessel ready to sail when Menendez
arrived from St. Augustine. He induced thirty of them to
remain, put them on a boat and ordered them to St. Augus-
tine; but on the way they were attacked by the Indians and
most of them killed. The mutineers sailed and were wrecked
on the lower Florida coast where they fell into the hands of
the Indians of that section.
At the end of 18 months conditions in Florida were grow-
ing from bad to worse; supplies and recruits were slow in
coming from the West Indies and the dissension of the
colonists was growing. Menendez therefore decided to go to
Spain and make a personal report in the interest of the
Florida colony. He sailed in the spring of 1567, and remained
in Spain a year. During his absence there occurred at the
mouth of the River San Mateo (St. Johns) the most spec-
tacular incident of them all.
Retribution of Dominic de Gourgues
The court of France, anti-Huguenot in sentiment, ignored
the popular clamor for retribution for the outrages perpe-
trated against Frenchmen in Florida. Observing that the
slaughter of his countrymen would likely go unavenged and
believing that the honor of France demanded a retributive
measure, Dominic de Gourgues, a soldier of fortune, took up-
on himself the responsibility of a private enterprise against
the Spaniards in Florida.
Selling his own estate and borrowing from his friends,
De Gourgues managed to finance the building of three
vessels especially equipped for the enterprise. His fighting
force comprised about 100 soldiers armed with arquebusses
and 80 mariners with cross-bows and pikes; there were also
a number of persons unskilled in arms, but seeking adven-
ture.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
De Gourgues left France August 22, 1567, sailed to
Africa, thence to the West Indies, and reached the Rivei
May (St. Johns) at Eastertide, 1568. In passing by the
mouth of the river he received the salute of the Spanish
posts and returned it to keep his identity secret. He came to
anchor in the St. Marys River, called the Somme by the
French. The Indians soon gathered and an alliance was
quickly made with them for an attack upon the Spanish
forts. Several days were required to perfect the plans. A
youth, Pierre Debre, who had escaped from Fort Caroline
and was afterward found and kindly treated by the Indians,
was brought in and his services as interpreter were invalu-
able. On the Saturday morning following Easter, De
Gourgues with his whole force, except 20 left to guard the
vessels in the St. Marys River, and a great number of Indians
were concentrated in the woods behind the fort on the north
side of the river.
Circumstances point almost without the slightest doubt
to Pilot Town as the location of this fort.
The attack was made in the forenoon. Captain Cazenove
with a company was ordered to set fire to the gate, while the
main forces attacked from the rear. A guard happened to
mount a platform just at this moment, noticed the French
and sounded the alarm. He fired a culverin twice and was
loading it for a third shot when he was killed by an Indian.
By this time the French and the Indians were inside the
fort. Not a Spaniard escaped; of the 60 in the fort, 45 were
killed, and 15 captured and reserved for another fate.
The garrison in the fort across the river, seeing the com-
motion, opened a cannonade, which the French replied to by
turning the guns of the captured fort to bear upon the other.
Haste was necessary to intercept the garrison on the south
side of the river before it should reach the great fort San
Mateo (at St. Johns Bluff). Captain De Gourgues with 80
soldiers entered a boat that had come around into the river
by prearranged plan and crossed over to the south side below
the second fort. The Indians swam across in great numbers,
holding their bows and arrows above their heads with one
hand and swimming with the other. The garrison fled, but
not in time to escape, for when they got to the woods they
found themselves cut off and partly surrounded. All were
slain except 15 reserved as before.
20 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The second fort was on the point where the river turns
at Mayport. The Spaniards evidently held back for a time
before leaving the fort, which gave De Gourgues time to cross
the river and station himself in the woods around the property
known as "Wonderwood."
The French removed the articles of value from this fort
and sent them across the river. Then they crossed over
themselves, with their captives and their Indian allies. De
Gourgues wished to obtain more accurate information about
the great fort before attacking it. He learned from one of
the prisoners that it contained about 250 men, well armed
and supplied, and this information was substantiated by a
spy sent from the great fort, who had been captured by the
Indians and brought in. De Gourgues decided to make the
attack at once, although it could not be made as a surprise,
for the Spaniards had already gotten wind of the attacks
on the small forts. In the night he sent the Indians to con-
ceal themselves in the woods behind the great fort and await
the signal for attack. Early the next morning he crossed the
river with all of his force, except a few left to guard the
prisoners, and finally attained the eminence (St. Johns
Bluff) overlooking the fort-the same position from which
Menendez on that fatal morning two and a half years before
observed Fort Caroline.
De Gourgues saw a reconnoitering party of 60 Spaniards
leave the fort and march toward his position, whereupon he
sent Captain Cazenove around to come up in their rear and
cut off their retreat. This maneuver was carried out un-
observed by the Spaniards, who continued toward De
Gourgues' position on the hill. When they were close, De
Gourgues advanced with his whole force. The Spaniards
broke and fled, but Cazenove had cut off their retreat and
all were slain without quarter.
The balance of the garrison in the fort got a glimpse of
what was taking place in the woods on the slope of St. Johns
Bluff and in their consternation the number of the French
was greatly magnified. Becoming demoralized they sought
escape through the woods behind the fort; here they ran in-
to the Indians, who attacked them with the greatest fury.
The French soon joined the Indians in the work of extermina-
tion. Only a few Spaniards escaped; most of them were slain
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
on the spot, but some were captured and held for a specific
purpose.
De Gourgues marched his prisoners to a suitable spot,
where he lectured them, reciting the details of the slaughter
of his countrymen by Menendez. Then they were hanged
from nearby trees. On a tablet of firwood he wrote with a
searing iron, "I do not this as unto Spaniards nor Mariners,
but as unto Thieves, Traitors, and Murderers," and placed
the placard beneath the victims as a message to the
Spaniards that he knew would come from St. Augustine
after his departure.
Menendez was in Spain at this time. Had he been in
Florida it is possible that he might have been on a visit to
San Mateo and fallen into the hands of the Frenchman, in
which event the history of that Spaniard's life without a doubt
would have closed right there. The Indians would have found
a great deal of pleasure in it too, for, as Bancroft says, they
unquestionably enjoyed seeing their enemies butcher each
other.
The necessity of destroying the fort was now explained
to the Indians and they set about the work with such zeal
that San Mateo was razed in one day. The French removed
the cannon and small arms to two boats that lay off the fort,
but the ammunition was lost as the result of an accident. An
Indian while boiling his fish set fire to a train of powder
laid by the Spaniards, by which the ammunition house was
blown up; from this other houses caught fire on their
thatched roofs and were quickly destroyed.
With the demolition of the other forts and the hanging
of the prisoners held at the first fort, De Gourgues consid-
ered his object accomplished. He sent the ordnance taken
from the forts around by boat and set out with his diminu-
tive army over the route by which he came. He found his
vessels on the St. Marys in order and on May 3d hoisted sail
and headed for home, where he arrived at Rochelle on the
6th of June, 1568.
News of the disaster in Florida reached Spain while De
Gourgues was still at Rochelle receiving the congratulations
of his admirers and friends. A Spanish squadron was sent
to capture him there, but he moved to another port before
its arrival. A price was put upon his head. The Spanish king
made representations to the French court and De Gourgues
22 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
was forced to seek safety in concealment; he remained in
retirement ten or twelve years, idolized by a large portion of
the French people.
The account of this expedition to Florida given in Champ-
lain's "Voyages" closes in these terms:
A generous enterprise, undertaken by a gentleman, and executed at
his own cost, for honor's sake alone, without any other expectation;
and one which resulted in obtaining for him a glory far more valuable
than all the treasures of the world.
Dominic de Gourgues was easily the most spectacular
figure in Florida's early history.
*De Gourgues' life was filled with wild adventure staged
in the remote parts of the world as known in his time. He
was in the armies of different princes for many years. He
was in command of a company that was cut to pieces near
Sienna and was there captured by the Spaniards. They put
him in a galley as a galley slave, and while serving in this
capacity he was captured by the Turks and so used by them
on the Mediterranean. The galley in which he was serving
was eventually restored to the French and De Gourgues re-
turned to France. He then made a voyage to Africa, Brazil,
and the South Seas, from which it is said he returned with
considerable wealth. Upon his return from this voyage he
learned of the massacre of the Huguenots in Florida. There
had been published in France a tract entitled "Supplication of
the Widows and Children of those Massacred in Florida", cal-
culated to rouse feeling to a high pitch. As a patriot De
Gourgues felt the honor of his country was at stake, and as a
man his fiery nature burned for an opportunity for revenge
for the ignoble treatment of himself by the Spaniards. These
united motives urged him to the chivalrous undertaking
against the Spaniards in Florida-un-Christian it may have
been, but intensely dramatic. Religion, however, played no
part in it, for De Gourgues himself was a Catholic. He
emerged from the retirement following the Florida enterprise
to accept appointment as commander of the high seas fleet; on
his way to assume command he contracted a sickness from
which he never recovered. He died in 1582.
The history of a city includes the record of the locality
before the city was founded and these stirring scenes at the
mouth of the St. Johns River therefore are properly in-
cluded as the first chapter of Jacksonville's history.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 23
Why Are We Sleeping?
From Maine to California in the schools of every city
and hamlet of the nation where American history is taught,
children recite in a word or two the events that occurred in
the vicinity of St. Johns Bluff recorded in this chapter. They
know that perhaps the destiny of a continent was settled
somewhere in Florida, but they do not know that it was any-
where near Jacksonville, nor that here the first white women
and children landed in the territory now the United States in
the first really substantial attempt at permanent coloniza-
tion, and that here according to a record inference the first
white child was born-the first Protestant white child born
in North America. They do not know that the first battle in
North America between white races was fought at Fort Caro-
line. But they do know all about Jamestown and Plymouth
rock and a good deal about the missions of California. Thou-
sands of people visit those places every year for no other
reason in the world than for their historic interest.
The Daughters of the American Revolution, on May 1,
1924, unveiled near Mayport an enlarged copy of the marker
placed by Ribault at the mouth of the river in 1562, and which
was undoubtedly destroyed by the Spaniards upon the capture
of Fort Caroline in 1565. This is the only effort that has been
made to commemorate any of the events of history along the
St. Johns River between Jacksonville and the sea.
Bibliography, Chapter I
Ribault and Laudonniere both described their first voyage to Florida. Their ac-
counts have been preserved in English translations, the best of which perhaps is Jared
Sparks's "Life of Ribault" (1848).
Laudonniere, LeMoyne (an artist), and Challeaux. all of whom escaped from Fort
Caroline when it was captured by the Spaniards, wrote of that affair. Meras, brother-
in-law of Menendez, likewise an eye-witness, recorded the massacre of the Huguenots
in minute detail: the full translation of his memorial will be found in Jeannette T.
Connor's work, "Menendez de Aviles" (1923).
De Gourgues left a manuscript description of his voyage to Florida. The American
historian Bancroft had an authentic copy of it.
English translations from source material were made by Hakluyt and published
during the closing years of the 16th century. Ternaux-Compans preserved then for
the French in the same way, 1841. The Virginia Historical Society in its "Early
Voyages to America" (1848) condenses much of this matter.
Le Moyne's forty-odd drawings visualize a great deal around Fort Caroline not
gained from the written sources.
Chapter I of this history is based on these sources, with observations by the
author (indicated), who made a careful personal survey of the topographical features
in relation to the record accounts. The illustrations of this chapter were prepared
especially for this history.
24 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER II
THE COW FORD
Menendez left Spain on his return voyage to Florida
about the time De Gourgues sailed out of the St. Marys and
headed for home; they passed somewhere on the broad At-
lantic, one sailing westward and the other eastward. It is
not difficult to imagine the fury that shook the frame of
Menendez when he arrived at St. Augustine and learned
what had taken place at the mouth of the San Mateo during
his absence. Nevertheless, he set to work rebuilding the
large fort and again garrisoned it, but never afterward with
as many men as were there at the time of the Frenchman's
attack. The small forts destroyed by De Gourgues do not
seem to have been rebuilt, though maps of a later day show
other posts along the river.
Following the tragic scenes when French and Spanish
fought for the possession of Florida, a long period elapsed
before events having a direct bearing on this immediate
vicinity again shaped themselves to become recorded his-
tory. It was a sort of inactive interim in local history, be-
tween the long ago and the beginning of development attend-
ing the actual English occupation in 1764. However, during
this period there were occasional forays between St. Augus-
tine and the English settlements to the north in which
English, Spanish and Indians took part. War parties now
and then camped for awhile on the bluff that sloped down to
the river at the foot of our present Liberty and Washington
Streets. In Spanish times this bluff was described as impos-
ing and timbered with live-oak, palm (palmetto), and wild
orange. At the foot of Liberty Street there was a rather
bold spring of clear, good water," (an outcropping, perhaps,
of the stream that is known at the present day to underlie
the surface in that section of the city). Back from the river
a short distance stood a small Indian village."
One of the earliest Spanish maps shows an Indian
village here called Ossachite. This liquid Indian name, Os-sa-
chi-te is the earliest record of a name applying to the local-
ity of Jacksonville. It was a Timuqua village of probably not
more than half a dozen houses thatched in the Timuqua style,
as shown by Le Moyne's drawings.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Indian Fords and Trails
The Indians had fording places at different points along
the river. It is not known what they originally called these
fords, but with the introduction of cattle into the country
the name "Wacca Pilatka" was applied, signifying a ford
or place where the cows crossed over. The first English name
for the vicinity of Jacksonville was "Cow Ford," and it was
often referred to by that name even long after Jacksonville
was founded.
One of the most popular fords along the St. Johns was
at this point-from the foot of our present Liberty Street
to a point on the south side of the river directly opposite.
A Timuqua trail led up from the lower east coast through
the New Smyrna district, on to St. Augustine and thence to
the Cow Ford (South Jacksonville and Jacksonville). On this
side of the river it took a northwesterly course through a
black-jack ridge where Hemming Park is now and there
branched, one trail leading northwesterly and the other on
toward the west.
The westerly trail crossed the sand hills (for a long time
called Trail Ridge) that divide the waters of Black Creek
from those of the St. Marys River; leading around the head
branches of the San-ta-fee;.joined the old De Soto trail near
where the railroad crosses the Olustee, which led to the
Suwanee; near the upper mineral springs, and westward to
Alapaha, Aucilla, Micasuki, and Tallahassee, towns of the
Apalachees. The Jacksonville-Lake City highway follows
closely the route of this trail.b
The northwesterly branch led to the St. Marys River to
a point opposite where Colerain, Ga., afterward stood.b
In the course of time these Indian trails grew into a
beaten track through the forest. The pack-ponies of the
traders followed them; then came the ox-carts of a later day,
following the course of least resistance. Thus a kind of high-
way evolved as a natural consequence of the matchless judg-
ment of the Indian in picking the easiest route.
Great Britain Acquires Florida
The English captured Havana from Spain in 1762. By
the treaty in 1763 England acquired Florida in exchange for
Havana. The English took actual possession in 1764, when
practically the entire Spanish population departed.
26 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
English Land Grants
About 1765, the Marquis of Hastings secured a British
grant on the north side of the St. Johns comprising 20,000
acres along the river from Trout Creek to the mouth of
Maxtons (McGirts) Creek, including the present site of Jack-
sonville. There is no record of a settlement on this land dur-
ing the English occupation. The Marquis of Waterford
secured a grant, also of 20,000 acres, on the opposite side of
the river between Pottsburg Creek and Julington Creek, in-
cluding the site of South Jacksonville.a This tract was de-
veloped in the vicinity of the ford. Bartram visited the Cow
Ford in 1774, and he noted in his book that a ferry for cross-
ing the river was in operation (for travelers) and near it
was an indigo plantation from which he procured a sailboat
for a trip up the river.
The St. Johns country was highly advertised in England
for a time, stress being placed on the profitable cultivation
of the indigo plant here. There were several English planta-
tions along the river above the Cow Ford. What we now call
Ortega was settled by Abraham Jones under an English
patent of January 12, 1770, granting him 2,000 acres of land
"in our province of East Florida, situation the neck or point
of land between St. Johns River and Maxtons Creek, known
by the name of Maxtons Creek Island. Bounded South and
Southeast by vacant lands; West and Northwest by Maxtons
Creek, and Eastwardly by St. Johns River." Jones built his
house half a mile above where Maxtons Creek emptied into
the river. About the year 1780, Colonel Daniel McGirts was
living on this tract, which was then called McGirts Place and
Maxtons Creek was called McGirts Creek.c
Kings Road
The English had not been long in Florida when they set
to work making a highway out of the old trail leading to the
St. Marys River. They started at New Smyrna; thence to St.
Augustine; to the Cow Ford; to the St. Marys at Colerain,
and on into Georgia. All land travel between the northern
Colonies and East Florida came down over this route and
consequently through the sites of Jacksonville and South
Jacksonville. Kings Road today follows the original route.
ROUTZ OF EINGS ROAD THROUGH JACKSONVILLE
k
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/ r r-eer/C Zae -Il rV/% T7 HA/ V" v c----- -
7 S ON /t Z~ ~/-~-c
I D. Hart, Dr. A. S. Baldwin, and other early settlers left minute descriptions of the route of the Kings Road through Jacksonville.
I
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28 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The Spaniards Return
Interest in Florida by England waned when the tide
turned against her in the war of the Colonies for independ-
ence, in which Florida did not join. In 1783, England ceded
Florida back to Spain, in a ridiculous exchange for several
unimportant islands. The Spaniards returned to Florida in
1784, and practically all of the English left. The British land
grants reverted to the Spanish crown, but the agreement in-
cluded a provision that the British settlers should be remu-
nerated for their lands. The English estates on the St. Johns
were abandoned and remained vacant for some years, falling
into rapid decay.d
McIntosh and the Spaniards
About the year 1790, John H. McIntosh, of Georgia,
arrived in the vicinity of the Cow Ford. Here he was ap-
pointed to some office by the Spanish governor, but he does
not seem to have obtained an actual grant of land. McIntosh
apparently was a turbulent man of restless and reckless dis-
position and it is not surprising that he and the Spaniards
eventually clashed. The result was that he was arrested for
intrigue in 1794 and sent to Havana, where he was confined
for a year in Morro Castle. After his release from prison, he
returned to Georgia, gathered together a band of adventur-
ers, and swept down upon the Spanish post (San Nicholas)
at the Cow Ford. This he destroyed, together with the
"Boats of the Royal Domain" on the river.e McIntosh and
the Spaniards seem to have patched up their differences,
however, for some years later he was again living in the
vicinity of the Cow Ford engaged in the exportation of
lumber on a large scale and incidentally living like a lord.
Prior to 1800, there were bona-fide settlers in the vicinity
of the Cow Ford, regardless of the fact that this locality had
by that time become the stamping ground of many undesir-
ables-criminals from the States, slave catchers, ruffians,
and banditti of varied kind. This was a condition that gave
the Spanish governors a world of trouble and there were fre-
quent exchanges of charges and counter-charges by Span-
iards and Georgians which resulted in a sentiment that
awaited only a pretext for an armed invasion of Florida. It
came in 1812.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Patriot Revolution
Prior to the declaration of war between the United
States and Great Britain in 1812, the United States Congress
in secret sessions as early as January, 1811, considered seri-
ously the question of seizing Florida although it was a pos-
session of Spain, on the pretext that in the event of war the
English might use it as a base of operations. There followed
a chain of correspondence between the United States Secre-
tary of State and the Governor of Georgia on the subject and
instructions were finally issued by the government, with the
consent of the President (Madison), for emissaries to proceed
to Florida and try to procure its cession to the United States
by peaceable means if possible, and failing in this they were
to use their own judgment in the matter.f The outcome was
an armed invasion of East Florida by Georgians "un-
officially" supported by United States regulars, accompanied
by an uprising of Americans living in northern Florida. This
armed attack upon the Spaniards is usually referred to in
history as the "Patriot Revolution" in Florida.
General Matthews, of Georgia, to whom this delicate task
of taking Florida over had been entrusted, found no difficulty
in enlisting volunteers for an invasion of Florida. The first
attack was upon Fernandina, which they captured without
bloodshed. Eight armed United States sloops co-operated,
and on the following day United States forces took posses-
sion of Fernandina and raised the American flag over the
fort. This was in March, 1812, and war with Great Britain
was not declared until the following June. Without the pre-
liminaries usual to the establishment of governments, the
Patriots at once set to work organizing a government of
their own for Northern Florida, elected John H. McIntosh
(the same McIntosh of Cow Ford fame) director-general, ap-
pointed judges and established a legislature.f It proved to
be a paper government and never functioned.
The next move of the Patriots was against St. Augus-
tine, the Spanish capital of East Florida. They marched 300
strong to a point near the town and encamped. Here they
were joined by a detachment of United States regulars. The
Spaniards mounted some cannon on a schooner and shelled
the camp, forcing the Americans to retreat. The Patriots
retreated to the Cow Ford and established their camp. The
United States troops remained in the vicinity of St. Augus-
30 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
tine until a detachment was attacked near twelve-mile.
swamp by a body of negroes sent out from St. Augustine
and several killed, when they too retreated, first to a block-
house near where Bayard is now and then to the St. Johns./
An outstanding feature of the Patriot invasion was a
campaign against the Indians of central Florida by Colonel
Daniel Newnan and a battalion of Georgia volunteers. The
experience of this battalion was remarkably similar to that
of Major Dade's command 23 years later, except that Major
Dade's perished and Colonel Newnan's escaped. Considerable
history is given in Colonel Newnan's official report of this
expedition and for that reason is here published in full. The
report was addressed to the governor of Georgia. The parts
in parentheses are explanatory insertions by the author:
New-Hope, St. Johns, Oct. 19, 1812.
Dear Sir: I have now the honor of transmitting to your excellency
an account of the several engagements which have taken place between
the Lotchaway and Alligator Indians, and the detachment of Georgia
volunteers under my command. As the object of this expedition, and
the views of the persons engaged in it, have been misconstrued, and
misstatements, relative to its protraction circulated, I ask the indul-
gence of your excellency to detail every transaction from its commence-
ment to its termination.
I arrived upon (the) St. Johns, in obedience to your orders, about
the 15th of August (1812) with the whole of my detachment, consist-
ing, including officers, of about 250 men, and with few on the sick
report. I immediately waited on Col. Smith (U. S. A.) before St. Au-
gustine, and received orders dated the 21st of August, to proceed
immediately against the hostile Indians within the province of East
Florida, and destroy their towns, provisions and settlements. I then
returned to the detachment upon the St. Johns, and made every prep-
aration to comply with my orders, by dispatching parties to procure
horses from the few inhabitants that had not fled from the province,
in preparing packs and provisions, and taking every step which I
deemed necessary to insure success to the enterprise. In consequence
of the sickness of myself and nearly one-half of the detachment, the
period of our marching was delayed until the 24th of September
(1812); and when just upon the eve of departing, an express arrived
from Col. Smith informing me that his provision wagons and the
escort was attacked by a body of Negroes and Indians, and ordering
me to join him immediately with 90 men, and bring all the horses and
carriages (any wheeled vehicle). I could command, for the removal of
his baggage, field-pieces, and sick, he having only 70 men fit for duty.
I marched to the relief of the colonel with 130 men and 25 horses, and
assisted him in removing to the block-house upon Davis's creek (near
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 31
Bayard). This service delayed for a few days our expedition to the
(Indian) nation; and when the detachment again assembled upon the
St. Johns, and were about to commence to march, the men had but six
or seven days to serve. About this time I received a letter from Col.
Smith, advising me to propose to the detachment an extension of their
service for 15 or 20 days longer, as the time for which they were
engaged was deemed insufficient to accomplish any object of the ex-
pedition. This measure I had contemplated, and its sanction by the
colonel met with my most hearty approbation; for I was unwilling to
proceed to the enemy's country with a single man, who would declare
that, in any event, he would not serve a day longer than the time for
which he had originally volunteered. I accordingly assembled the
detachment, and after stating the necessity of a tender of further
service, proposed that the men should volunteer for three weeks longer;
when 84 men, including officers, stepped out and were enrolled, which,
with the addition of 23 volunteer militia sent to my aid by Col. Smith,
and 9 patriots under the command of Capt. Cone, made my whole force
amount to 117. With this small body, provided with four days' provi-
sions and 12 horses, I was determined to proceed to the (Indian) nation
and give those merciless savages at least one battle; and I was embold-
ened in this determination by the strong expectation of being succored
by a body of cavalry from St. Mary's, and which it has since appeared
did assemble at Colerain (Ga.), but proceeded no farther.
On the evening of the 24th of September (1812) we left the St
Johns, marching in Indian file, Capt. Humphrey's company of riflemen
in front, Capt. Fort's company, under the command of Lieut. Fannin,
in the center, and Capt. Coleman's company, with Cone's detachment,
under the command of Lieut. Broadnax, in the rear. A small party
marched in front of the main body, and another in the rear, the open-
ness of the country, except in particular places, rendered it unnecessary
to employ men upon the right and left. Our encampment at nights,
there being three companies, was in the form of a triangle, with the
baggage in the center, the men with their clothes on, lying with their
feet pointing outwards, and their firelocks in their arms. In case of
attack, the officers were instructed to bring up their companies upon
the right and left of the company fronting the enemy, and attend to
the Indian mode of fighting until ordered to charge. In case of meeting
the enemy upon our march, Humphrey's company was instructed to
file off to the right, Fort's company to advance and form to the front
in single rank, and Coleman's company to file off to the left; the whole
then to advance in the form of a crescent, and endeavor to encircle the
enemy.
On the morning of the fourth day of our march, when within six
or seven miles of the Lotchaway towns (near Newnan's Lake, Alachua
County), our advance party discovered a party of Indians marching
along the path meeting us, and at the same moment they appeared to
have discovered us. As soon as I was informed of it, I lost no time in
32 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
giving the necessary directions for the companies to advance, and obey
the instructions which had been previously given to them, and which
appeared exactly suited to the situation in which we found the enemy.
As soon as Fort's company, at the head of which I had placed myself,
had advanced to the proper ground, I discovered the Indians falling
back, and making every preparation for battle, by unslinging their
packs, trimming their rifles, and each man taking his place. We con-
tinued to advance, taking advantage of the trees in our progress, until
we were within 130 yards of the Indians, when many of them fired, and
I immediately ordered the charge, which drove them from behind the
trees, and caused them to retire with the greatest precipitation; our
men all the while firing at them, slew several, and by repeated charges
drove them half a mile, when they took shelter in the swamp. It unfor-
tunately happened, I presume through inadvertence, that Humphrey's
company in filing to the right took too great a circuit, got a small
swamp between them and the enemy, and thereby rendered the victory
less decisive than it would have been had the whole charged together,
and before the Indians had dispersed themselves and extended their
force, which they soon did, nearly half a mile up and down the swamp.
The company, however, was of service afterwards in preventing the
enemy, after their dispersion, from entering our camp, retaking their
baggage and provisions, all of which fell into our hands, or falling
upon the wounded, that had been sent to the rear. The action, including
the skirmishing upon the flanks, lasted two hours and a half, the Indians
frequently attempting to outflank us and get in our rear, but were
repulsed by the companies extending to the right and left. We had
one man killed and nine wounded, two of which have since died of their
wounds. The loss of the enemy must have been considerable. I saw
seven fall to the ground with my own eyes, among whom was their
king, Payne; two of them fell near the swamp, the rest our men had
the curiosity to scalp. The rifle company on the right and Broadnax's
on the left, speak of killing several near the swamp, who were borne
off by their comrades, it being a principle among the savages to carry
off their dead at the risk of their lives.
We remained on the battle ground watching the movements of the
Indians, who were near the swamp painting themselves, and appeared
to be in consultation, all of which indicated an intention to renew the
combat. Accordingly a half an hour before sunset, having obtained a
considerable reinforcement of Negroes and Indians, from their towns,
they commenced the most horrid yells imaginable, imitating the cries
and noise of almost every animal of the forest, their chiefs advancing
in front in a stooping serpentine manner, and making the most wild
and frantic gestures, until they approached within two hundred yards
of us, when they halted and commenced firing. Our men were not to
be alarmed by their noise and yells, but as instructed, remained per-
fectly still and steady behind logs and trees until the enemy by this
forbearance bad approached somewhat nearer, when a brisk ad well-
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 33
directedfire from our line soon drove them back to their original ground.
I would now have ordered the charge, but being under the necessity,
from the extension of the enemy's line, of detaching nearly one-half of
my force to protect our camp and wounded, the assailing of which is
a great object with Indians, I was left to contend with a force three
times as numerous as my own. The action lasted until eight o'clock
(in the evening), when the enemy was completely repulsed in every
attempt whether made upon our centre or flanks. We had two men
killed and one wounded; the enemy carried off several of their men
before it was dark-after which all firing, of course random, was at
the spot from whence the flash arose.
After fighting and fasting the whole day, we had to work through-
out the night, and at daylight had a tolerable breastwork of logs and
earth, with port holes, on the ground on which the battle was fought.
We were reduced to this necessity, for in dispatching Capt. Whitaker
about dark to the St. Johns for a reinforcement, six more men took the
liberty to accompany him, taking with them our best horses; our pilot
and surgeon, who was sick, was among the number.
The two days succeeding the battle, we neither saw nor heard
anything of the enemy, but on the evening of the third day they com-
menced firing at our work at a long distance, and renewed it every
day for five or six days, but without killing or wounding any of our men.
After killing two or three of them through our port holes they seldom
came within gunshot. Seven or eight days had now elapsed since our
express had left us, hunger was staring us in the face, and we were
now reduced to the necessity of eating one of our horses; we had no
surgeon to dress the wounded, and apprehensions were entertained that
the enemy would receive reinforcements from Augustine or the Maka-
sukie Indians. Expecting relief every hour, I was unwilling to leave
our breastworks while we had a horse to eat, but I understood from
some of my officers that a certain captain was determined to leave us
with his company, and that many of the men, giving up all hopes of
relief, talked of deserting in the night rather than perish, or fall a
sacrifice to the merciless Negroes and Indians, whom they were taught
to believe would surround us in great numbers in a few days. In this
trying situation, when our few remaining horses were shot down by
them (the Indians), and the number of our sick daily increasing, 1
reluctantly assented to leave our works that night, and directed the
litters to be prepared to carry the wounded.
About 9 o'clock we commenced our distressing march, carrying
five wounded men in litters and supporting two or three more. We
had not proceeded more than eight miles, when the men became per-
fectly exhausted from hunger and fatigue, and were unable to carry
the wounded any farther. About two hours after we left our breast-
works, 25 horsemen, with provisions, arrived to our relief, on a different
road from the one we had taken, but, from motives best known to
themselves, instead of following us, returned to the St. Johns, and we
34 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
were left to encounter new difficulties, two men that I had dispatched
on the path the horsemen came, by some means or other missing them.,
We again constructed a place of defense, and I dispatched Sergeant-
major Reese with one private to Picolata, to learn what had occasioned
the delay of our expected supplies, and told him I should remain where
I was until I could hear from him, and endeavored to procure cattle,
as we discovered signs of their being near us.
The evil genius of Captain again prevailed, and I have since
learned from Captain Cone, that this person instigated not only him,
but many of the privates to urge a departure from our works even in
the day time, when I was convinced that the Indians knowing our weak
situation would endeavor to ambuscade. This gentleman, if innocent,
will have an opportunity of proving himself so before a court-martial.
With a burning fever on me and scarcely able to walk, the march was
ordered about three o'clock in the afternoon. I had directed the adjutant,
Captain Hardin, to march in front, to avoid all places where there could
be an ambuscade, and the litters should be distributed among the dif-
ferent companies. Being extremely weak, I marched in the rear with
Captain who carried my firelock, Lieut. I annin, and about fif-
teen or twenty privates. We had scarcely marched five miles before
the front of the detachment discovered the heads of several Indians on
both sides of the path, from among several pine trees that were laid
prostrate by the hurricane; the same instant, the enemy fired upon our
advanced party, and shot down four of them, one, a Spaniard, died on
the spot, and two survived a few days; my negro boy was one of them.
'he moment I heard the firing I ordered the detachment to charge, and
the Indians were completely defeated in fifteen minutes, many of them
dropping their guns, and the whole running off without ever attempting
to rally. Four were left dead on the field, and I am convinced from the
constant fire we kept up, that many more must have been slain, but
were hid from our view by the thick and high palmetto bushes.
We lay on the battle ground all night, and started next day at
10 o'clock, marched five miles and again threw up breastworks between
two ponds, living upon gophers, alligators and palmetto stocks, until
Sergeant-major Reese arrived with provisions and 14 horses, when we
were enabled to proceed to the St. Johns with all our sick and wounded,
where a gun-boat (schooner) by the direction of Colonel Smith was in
waiting for us, which conveyed us to his camp, where we met with
every attention that humanity or benevolence could bestow.
I cannot refrain from expressing the high sense I have of the
care and anxiety which Colonel Smith has manifested for the detach-
ment under my command, and his promptitude in affording every aid
in his power, when apprised of our situation. My pen can scarcely do
justice to the merits of the brave officers and men under my command,
their fortitude under all their privations and distresses never forsak-
ing them. Captain Hamilton, who volunteered as a private, his com-
pany having left him at the expiration of their time; Lieutenant Fannin,
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Ensign Hamilton, and Adjutant Hardin distinguished themselves in
a particular manner, being always among the first to charge, and first
in pursuit; Sergeants Holt and Attaway likewise acted very bravely,
and folk's company in general, being always near me, and under my
immediate view, advanced to the charge with the steadiness of veterans.
Lieutenant Broadnax showed a great deal of courage and presence of
mind, and Ensign Mann who was wounded in the first action fought
well. Captain Cone who was wounded in the head early in the action
behaved well and Lieutenant Williams did himself great honor in every
action, but particularly in the bold and manly stand he made in the
night engagement. Sergeant Hawkins and Corporal Neil of Coleman's
company acted like soldiers, and Sergeant-major Reese's activity was
only surpassed by his courage; he was everywhere and always brave.
Captain Humphrey's company acted bravely, particularly Lieutenant
Reed, Sergeant fields, Sergeant Cowan, Sergeant Denmark and many
of the privates. I can only speak of Captain Humphrey from the report
of some of his men, who say he acted well; it so happening he never
met my eye during either of the engagements, while the conduct of
every other person that I have mentioned, except one or two, came
under my personal observation.
The number of Indians in the first engagement, from every cir-
cumstance that appeared, must have been trom seventy-five to a hun-
dred; in the second engagement, their number, including Negroes who
were their best soldiers, was double ours, and in the third engagement
there appeared to be fifty, which was nearly equal our force, after
deducting the sick and wounded. From every circumstance, I am in-
duced to believe that the number killed and wounded among the Indians
must be at least fifty.
I have the honor to be, with great respect, your most obedient
servant, DANIEL NEWNAN.
His excellency David B. Mitchell.
The star of fortune shone over Colonel Newnan's battal-
ion, for its escape was miraculous. There are some interest-
ing inferences in this report besides the fighting: What is
meant by "scalping the Indians out of curiosity" is not clear;
maybe it was a custom, for in a later private letter Colonel
Newnan stated that Zephaniah Kingsley's house on Fort
George Island was "handsomely decorated with Indians'
scalps."/
The flag of the United States flew by the side of the
Patriot flag on Spanish soil for a year. When the U. S. troops
were withdrawn in the Spring of 1813, the Patriot bands
disintegrated rapidly, but not before they had pillaged and
destroyed a great amount of property in this section.
36 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The Patriot Bannert
*The design of the Patriot flag was: Field, white; figure,
a soldier in the act of charging bayonet; inscription, "Salus
populi lex supreme" (Safety the supreme law of the people).
Thus another banner was added to the array of flags signify-
ing actual or attempted possession that have flown in Florida
in times past.
The country between the St. Johns and the St. Marys
Rivers did not enjoy a lengthy peace after the departure of
the "Patriots." A peculiar chapter in Florida's varied his-
tory was written here when an attempt was made to organize
the "Republic of Florida" based on the American system, but
under the jurisdiction of the Spaniards-a form of compro-
mise between the Spaniards and the settlers in this section.
The republic functioned under this system for a year or two
and really bore the imprint of law and order. Trouble again
arose, however, when M'Gregor and his so-called "Cartha-
genians" or "Venezuelan Patriots" took possession of Fer-
nandina and turmoil continued until the negotiations of the
United States for the acquisition of Florida were begun.
Fort San Nicholas
An early Spanish map indicates a block-house or a Span-
ish post on the south side of the river in the vicinity of the
present South Jacksonville. Thenceforth its history is lost,
but it was probably the parent of the post that later became
known as San Nicholas.
There is no record to indicate that the English had a
garrisoned post at this point. When the Spaniards returned
in 1784, they reestablished the military post under the name
San Nicholas.
The history of Fort San Nicholas was an exciting one.
McIntosh destroyed it in 1796, and the Patriots doubtless did
likewise in 1812. The post was temporarily abandoned in
1817 out of fear of an attack by the "Carthagenians", who
held Fernandina. During the last years of its existence it
was maintained principally for the purpose of preventing
smuggling, although the commanders seem not always wide-
awake in this respect, according to an article written by Rev.
tDescribed by G. I. F. Clarke in a letter written from Fernandina 19th MarLh. 1l12.
-Fla.. Hist Society.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
J. N. Glenn (a Methodist missionary at St. Augustine in
1823), as follows:
"General (John H.) McIntosh told me once that he had
two boatloads of cotton that he had raised up the St. Johns
River (probably at Ortega) that he wished to pass the Span-
ish post at Cow Ford without paying the Spanish duties.
Accordingly he approached the officer in command on the
subject. Just then the boats hove in sight coming down the
river. The commander put up his spy-glass and remarked,
'There is too much cotton to let it pass'. The General gave
him a doubloon. He put the coin to one eye and the spy-glass
to the other and said, 'Too much yet'. The General gave him
another doubloon. He then put a doubloon to each eye and
said, 'I see no cotton now'."z
(Francis S.) Hudnall acquired the land on which the old
fort stood, even while a part of it was still in existence. He
leveled the timbers for use on his farm.t The fort was en-
closed by an excavation 100 feet square. Mr. Hudnall built
his house directly on the east side of the moat, and while
excavating found a number of Spanish coins."
The St. Johns River
The Indian name for the St. Johns River as interpreted
by the early Spaniards was "Illaka", meaning unusual, dif-
ferent from any other, moves along with the south wind.'
The French interpretation was "Welaka", a chain of lakes.
The former seems more in unison with the characteristic
reasoning of an Indian.
Ribault first saw the river on the afternoon of April 30,
1562, but he did not enter it until the following day, May 1st.
From this fact he named it Riviere de Mai--the River May.
The destruction of Fort Caroline by Menendez took place
within a day of the festival of St. Matthew and in celebra-
tion of the "victory" he named both the fort and the river
San Mateo. The Spaniards later changed the name of the
river to San Juan, and the English retained it as St. Johns.
tTh* exact site of Fort San Nicholas was on the property used by Merrill-Stevens
a a war-time shipbuilding plant, back from the river about 260 yards.
38 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Bibliography, Chapter II.
aHistorical sketch in Jacksonville City Directory 1870, J. M. Hawks.
bHistorical sketch in Jacksonville City Directory 1871, D. G. Ambler.
cFrom the records at Tallahassee.
dFairbanks' History of Florida.
eMemoirs of Florida, Fleming.
/Niles' Register, Baltimore, Vol. III, 1812-13.
gJacksonville Sun and Press, Aug. 11, 1877.
hColumbus Drew in Fla. Times-Union, January, 1890.
iFlorida and the South, Brinton, 1869.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER II
SPANISH LAND GRANTS
In the 198 years that Spain governed Florida prior to the
English occupation she made no attempt whatever to induce
settlement from the outside; but following its re-possession
in 1783, the Spaniards inaugurated an entirely different
policy in this particular. Under Royal Decree of 1790, it
became only necessary for the applicant to set forth his de-
sires in a memorial to the governor asking for lands to the
amount permitted according to the number of his family and
his slaves, the location desired being named in the memorial.
The usual reply of the governor to these applications was:
"Let the lands asked for be granted without injury to a third
person."a It was done in one of two ways: By Grant, which
gave title of absolute property to the petitioner; or by Con-
cession, the terms of which included a provision of some sort,
such as requiring the land to be kept under cultivation
usually for a period of time designated by Spanish law.
The treaty for the transfer of Florida by Spain to the
United States was ratified in February, 1819, and the actual
change of flags took place in July, 1821; grants of land made
during this interval under the Donation Acts of the U. S.
Congress were designated Donations.
*The acquisition of Florida by the United States was not
through direct purchase from Spain. The treaty was drawn
around a claim clause of the United States and its citizens
against the Spanish government for alleged damages for vari-
ous reasons. The United States agreed to cancel its claims
and assume the payment of those of its citizens to not exceed-
ing $5,000,000, in consideration of which Spain ceded Florida.
The interest accumulating upon these claims eventually
amounted to $1,489,768. Therefore Florida cost the United
States $6,489,768, but Spain did not get a dollar of it.
After the formal transfer of Florida in 1821, Congress
passed what were known as the "Land-Grant Acts", provid-
ing for the appointment of commissioners to investigate and
confirm legitimate claims for title under Spanish grants and
concessions. These commissioners were usually called the
land-grant commissioners and will be referred to by that
40 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
name hereafter. Those for East Florida sat as a Board at
St. Augustine, and the records indicate that their proceed-
ings were painstaking and thorough; their awards are upheld
by the courts of this State and are the base titles to property
here.
Robert Pritchard, 1791.
(Jacksonville)
Robert Pritchard on January 3, 1791, procured a conces-
sion from Governor Queseda of 450 acres of land situated on
the north side of the River San Juan opposite the post of San
Nicholas. A regular survey was made and Pritchard took
possession immediately, erected buildings and planted crops.
He died a few years later, but his heirs, through authorized
agents, continued the cultivation of the tract. One of these
agents was John Joseph Lain, who cultivated and lived on
the land afterward granted to Mrs. Purnal Taylor and which
is now included in the plat of Jacksonville.a When the "Pa-
triots" arrived in 1812, the Pritchard lands were permanently
abandoned.
Robert Pritchard was the first white settler on the site of Jack-
sonville.
John McQueen, 1792.
(Ortega)
A survey was made of "San Juan Nepomuceno" by Pedro
Marrot on January 14, 1792, for John McQueen, to whom it
had been conceded by the Spanish governor. The survey
comprised 3,274 acres lying along both sides of McGirts
Creek (including all of Ortega and the west side of McGirts
Creek nearly to Big Fishweir Creek). On February 27, 1804,
John McQueen received title of absolute property to this
tract and in March of the same year (1804) he made a sale
to John H. McIntosh, which was duly authorized and re-
corded. The land-grant commissioners confirmed the title
to McIntosh.o
In an agreement (May 26, 1836) among the heirs of John
H. McIntosh, Sr., his daughter, Catherine A. Sadler, was
awarded "McGirts Point", which at that time was called
"Ostego". From Mrs. Sadler the title next appears in Austin
D. Moore and Asa Moore. The executors of the estate of
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Austin D. Moore with Asa Moore transferred the tract (De-
cember 9, 1857) to John P. Sanderson. The heirs of John P.
Sanderson (February 26, 1902) through a New York trust
company transferred it, excepting one or two small parcels,
to the Jacksonville Ortega Town Company, a New Jersey
corporation headed by Wilkinson Call, for $40,000. The Jack-
sonville Ortega Town Company (February 20, 1906) trans-
ferred these holdings to J. R. Dunn. J. R. Dunn (March 15,
1906) to D. H. McMillan, Trustee; D. H. McMillan, Trustee,
etc. (May 10, 1906) to Ortega Company, a Florida corpora-
tion headed by J. N. C. Stockton,c by whom the tract was
platted and put on the market as building lots.
William Jones, 1793-William Hendricks, 1797.
(South Jacksonville)
One William Jones, February 14, 1793, obtained a Spanish
grant comprising 216 acres situated on the south side of the
River San Juan at the Cow Ford. South Jacksonville now
occupies this tract. Jones's land was confiscated for rebellion
against His Spanish Majesty.a It is not known with cer-
tainty what the trouble was, but we may make a pretty safe
guess that when McIntosh made his raid on Fort San Nich-
olas and the Boats of the Royal Domain about 1796, William
Jones, living nearby, was involved in that affair, and if so,
the Spaniards had a perfect right to confiscate his land.
On May 18, 1797, this land was re-granted to William
Hendrix (Hendricks) of North Carolina. Isaac Hendricks,
son of William Hendricks, came down and occupied it, built
houses and cultivated the tract for many years. It was con-
firmed to Isaac Hendricks by the land-grant commissioners.
On February 11, 1823, Isaac Hendricks conveyed the tract
to his son, William I. Hendricks, as a "Gift of Love and
Affection". William I. Hendricks transferred it to his
mother-in-law, Elizabeth (Hudnall) Hendricks, April 27,
1852, except 10 acres that had been sold to Sadler and Halli-
day and 71/2 acres sold to George Stone.c
After the War Between the States Harrison Reed bought
a considerable portion of the old Hendricks plantation and
platted it as South Jacksonville. The remainder was platted
in 1882 by Elizabeth Hendricks and named Oklahoma.
42 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Philip Dell, 1801.
(Brooklyn and Riverside)
On February 11, 1801, Philip Dell secured a concession
from Governor White of 800 acres, extending along the river-
front from the mouth of McCoys Creek to a point about half
way between Barrs and King Streets-the bend in Riverside
Avenue between these streets is where the line cuts through.
It embraced the present Brooklyn and Riverside sections.
For many years the tract was known as "Dell's Bluff" and
was often referred to in the records by that name.
The Dell Bluff tract was acquired by John H. McIntosh
January 11, 1805. Title was confirmed to him by the land-
grant commissioners John H. McIntosh on October 4, 1823,
deeded it to Francis J. Ross. Ross gave Joseph B. Lancaster
a quitclaim deed to these 800 acres, December 6, 1833, the
consideration mentioned being $2,000. Lancaster held it a
little more than ten years, selling only six acres in the mean-
time, three of which were sold to Blanchard & Rider for a mill
site at the mouth of McCoys Creek; on May 1,1844, he deeded
the remainder back to Francis I. (J.) Ross, the consideration
being $2,500. Francis J. Ross conveyed it to William B. Ross
March 24, 1845, and William B. Ross sold it to James Winter
February 6, 1847. Winter died in possession of the property
and his estate descended to his heirs. On April 23, 1866,
Uriah Bowden bought a portion of these lands from the com-
missioners of the Winter estate. Miles Price finally acquired
the bulk of the Winter estate, and on June 8, 1868, he con-
veyed 500 acres to E. M. Cheneye in trust to be conveyed to
John M. Forbes (a Boston millionaire) for $10,000 in gold.!
The property was platted for Forbes into lots February 1,
1869, and named "Riverside", provision being made for a
park of 14 acres, now Riverside Park.,
John Jones, 1801-Isaac Hendricks, 1804.
(LaVilla)
Under date of February 11, 1801, John Jones obtained a
concession of 350 acres in a triangular tract on the north
side of the River San Juan beginning at the mouth of McCoys
Creek and lying north of it. Jones seems to have forfeited
his title to this tract, for it was re-ceded to Isaac Hendricks
by the Spanish governor in February, 1804, and on Septem-
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
ber 28, 1816, Isaac Hendricks received title of absolute prop-
erty to the same from Governor Coppinger. In presenting
his claim to the land-grant commissioners Isaac Hendricks
exhibited the original patent to Jones and also produced a
deed from Jones's heirs to himself. The commissioners con-
firmed the title to Hendricks. Isaac Hendricks had in the
meantime given the property to his wife, Catherine Hen-
dricks, by a Deed of Gift. The confirmation was for 500 acres,
bounded south by McCoys Creek, East by the Taylor Grant,
Northwest by public lands.a
After Mrs. Hendricks, the title appears in Rebecca Jones
(who later married Calvin Reed). Rebecca Jones on October
21, 1831, sold the east half of the tract, 250 acres, afterward
known as East LaVilla, to John W. Richard. Richard on July
26,1836, deeded an undivided one-half interest in 249 acres of
this tract to Adin Waterman, Trustee for Lydia V. Pinkston,
wife of Milo K. Pinkston, in accordance with a pre-marriage
agreement between Lydia Waterman and Milo Pinkston,
whereby certain property was required to be placed in trust
for the sole and separate use of Lydia. Then began a series of
amusing transfers and inter-transfers, and after traveling
around for several years the title came back to Adin Water-
man, Trustee for Lydia V. Pinkston, safe and sound; and in
another chain also the half interest of John W. Richard,
amounting in all to 225 acres. Adin Waterman, Trustee, etc.,
under power of attorney from Lydia V. and Milo K. Pinkston,
transferred the property on January 15, 1842, to Rev. James
McDonald,c who was then the pastor of the Baptist Church
in Jacksonville.
The chain of title to West LaVilla was not so complicated.
Calvin and Rebecca Reed deeded the 250 acres July 29, 1839,
to J. W. Richard. Three days afterward (August 1, 1839)
Richard quit-claimed to John Warren. On March 19, 1842,
John Warren deeded these 250 acres to James McDonald.c
Rev. McDonald had acquired East LaVilla the previous Janu-
ary and thus nearly all of the original grant was brought
together under single ownership.
Mr. McDonald disposed of these holdings in 1851. On Jan-
uary 28, 1851, he sold 350 acres to Samuel Spencer, and the
remainder February 1, 1851, to Rev. Joseph S. Baker, who
had succeeded Rev. McDonald as the Baptist pastor in Jack-
sonville. Mr. Baker acquired Samuel Spencer's interest June
44 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
9, 1851, and the property was again brought together under
one ownership.c Rev. Joseph S. Baker held the tract until
after the war when he sold the bulk of his estate to F. F.
L'Engle and others and the property was subdivided and
much of it incorporated in the Town of LaVilla.
It has been published that when Mr. Baker bought the
McDonald farm his son, J. McRobert Baker, remodeled the
McDonald home and named the plantation LaVilla. He built
a school house on the land and named it LaVilla Institute.
This school continued until the beginning of the War Between
the States.f
Robert Hutcheson, 1815.
(Willowbrook Park Section and Ingleside)
Robert Hutcheson (often spelled Hutchinson in the rec-
ords) on December 12, 1815, obtained a Spanish grant com-
prising 150 acres on the northwest side of the River San
Juan, described by surveyors' measurements.a The tract
was nearly square and had a river frontage extending from a
point between James and Cherry Streets to about Donald
Street. It lacked only a few hundred feet of adjoining the
Dell tract on the east. Robert Hutcheson died in possession
of the property. His widow, as administratrix, sold the land
(together with the Hutcheson concession adjoining on the
southwest, sec page 48) to Dr. Whipple Aldrich, October 25,
1830. Dr. Aldrich conveyed to William McKay March 19,
1836. Mr. McKay died in possession, and in settlement of
his estate, this property was sold, his heirs joining in quit-
claim deeds, to Francis D. Scarlett March 2, 1850. Francis
D. Scarlett sold it April 11, 1850, to Elias G. Jaudon. Elias
G. Jaudon sold a part of the original grant (it is the grant
and not the Hutcheson concession that we are tracing here),
lying mostly east of Willow Brook to Ewell Jamison. Elias
G. Jaudon and wife on May 15, 1869, deeded the remaining
part of the grant south of Willow Brook (and a narrow strip
of a few acres of the concession joining on the south) to
Sarah J. McKinlay, their daughter, as her proportion of the
estate.c This "Gift of Love and Affection" to Mrs. McKinlay
is now Ingleside and Pinehurst.
The records do not indicate why the narrow strip of a
few acres was included. Maybe some interesting little cir-
cumstance was involved, possibly of a topographical nature.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
George Atkinson, 1816.
(Shadow Lawn, Arden, Fishweir Park)
George Atkinson, on February 22, 1816, obtained a con-
cession from Governor Coppinger of a tract of land lying
along but mostly north of Fishware (Big Fishweir) Creek.
Two years later Robert Hutcheson obtained a concession
embracing lands adjoining his (Hutcheson's) grant. When
the survey of the Hutcheson concession was made it was
found that it included lands claimed by Atkinson. A con-
troversy arose between Hutcheson and Atkinson in regard
to the "over-lap" and it was taken to the courts. The land-
grant commissioners confirmed the over-lap to Hutcheson,a
and a court decree in December, 1829, did likewise and estab-
lished the line. There was no question about the other lines
of the Atkinson concession and the land commissioners con-
firmed to him that portion outside of the over-lap. Accord-
ing to the survey it contained 219 acres.
*From the decision of the commissioners and the court,
Atkinson had no legal claim to the over-lap. If he really needed
more land the opportunity for securing it was knocking at his
southern door, for there was an unclaimed stretch along the
riverfront between his land and that of McQueen (McIntosh)
equal in size if not greater than the part in controversy that
he no doubt could easily have acquired under the Donation Act.
The controversy between Hutcheson and Atkinson started in
Spanish times.
Atkinson owned the tract for a great many years and died
in possession. It was deeded to Fannie L. Fehrenbach No-
vember 25, 1881, by Henry Young, executor of the estate of
George Atkinson. Mrs. Fehrenbach platted the property in
1882c and put it on the market in acreage tracts. This is now
Shadow Lawn, Arden, and Fishweir Park.
Maria. Taylor, 1816.
(Jacksonville, west of Market Street)
During the "Patriot" troubles a Spanish subject named
Purnal Taylor was killed in a skirmish with a scouting party
of the "Patriot" army in the inland passage to Fernandina.
His widow, Mrs. Maria Taylor, afterward petitioned the Span-
ish governor and was granted 200 acres of vacant land on the
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
north side of the River San Juan, opposite Fort San Nicholas.
A copy of the land-grant to Mrs. Taylor follows:a
(Translation)
Don Jose Coppinger, lieutenant colonel of the royal armies, civil
and military governor pro ter., and chief of the royal finance in the
city of St. Augustine, Florida, and its province:
Whereas by royal order of the 29th of March, 1815, his majesty
has been pleased to approve the gifts and rewards proposed by my
predecessor, the Brigadier Don Sebastian Kindelan, for the officers and
soldiers both of the line as well as the militia of the said province, who
contributed to the defense of the same at the time of the rebellion,
being one of said rewards, the partition of lands in proportion to the
number of family each individual may have, That Dona Maria Suarez,
widow of Turnel (Purnal) Taylor, having presented herself soliciting
the quantity she, her deceased husband, children and slaves were en-
titled to, on account of the said husband being killed in the attack made
by the enemy upon the river St. Johns during the insurrection in this
province, as she has proven by certificate, then was granted by my decree
on the 12th of the present month two hundred acres of land on the
opposite side of the military post of St. Nicholas, on the river St.
Johns, at the mouth of the creek known as McCoy's Creek, bounded
on the west by the plantation of John Jones and on the other sides by
vacant lands; all conformable to the regulation established by this gov-
ernment for the partition of lands and the number of persons and slaves
her said family is composed of, as is set forth in the proceedings insti-
tuted by the above-mentioned Dona Maria Suarez, on file in the govern-
ment notary's office.
Given under my hand and seal and countersigned by the under-
signed notary of the government and royal finance, in the city of St.
Augustine, Florida, September 13, 1816.
JOSE COPPINGER.
By order of his Excellency,
Juan de Entralgo, etc., etc., etc.
The award of the land-grant commissioners confirming
the original title in Hogans (Taylor) was made April 26,
1824,a almost two years after the town of Jacksonville had
been surveyed and founded. I. D. Hart eventually got hold
of all of the Taylor grant, excepting ten acres. In 1821 he
bought 18 acres in the southeast corner nearest the ford;
this tract was later included in the original survey of Jack-
sonville. On July 10, 1831, he acquired another section of
the Taylor grant; May 28, 1834, another; and April 15, 1836,
all of the remaining portion,L except the ten acres referred to
above. The boundaries of the Taylor grant as filed with the
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
land-commissioners were: North by public land; South by
River St. Johns; West by lands formerly granted to John
Jones (the Hendricks grant); East by lands granted to
Maestre.a
Juan Maestre, 1816
(Jacksonville, east of Market Street)
Juan Maestre (referred to in English as John Masters),
a "Skipper in the Boats of the Royal Domain", representing
himself as being in straitened circumstances, petitioned on
November 18, 1816, for 100 acres of "vacant hammock lands
on the north side of the river St. Johns, opposite the battery
of St. Nicholas". The Spanish governor ordered that
Maestre's petition be granted and it was done on December
13, 1816. He was granted only 50 acres, however, as that
was all he was entitled to under the Spanish law," but the
land actually granted was increased by subsequent surveys
to about 80 acres.h His land was bounded East and North
by Hogans Creek, West by the Maria Taylor grant, and
South by the River St. Johns. It was surveyed February 21,
1817, by George I. F. Clarke.a
Qn June 21, 1820, Maestre sold the tract to John Brady
for $200. Brady conveyed it John Bellamy January 27, 1823,
after Jacksonville had been founded and some lots had been
sold. I. D. Hart got control of John Bellamy's interest July
26, 1826, but he did not get title by conveyance from Bellamy
until May 4, 1836. On December 18, 1836, for $1100, I. D.
Hart conveyed his right, title and interest in this property
to William J. Mills, in trust for Mrs. Maria Doggett.c
Daniel Hogans, 1817
(East Jacksonville, Fairfield)
Daniel Hogans, under date of March 18, 1817, obtained a
concession from Governor Coppinger of 255 acres, situated
on the north bank of the St. Johns River, nearly opposite the
battery of San Nicholas, and east of Hogans Creek.
Daniel Hogans conveyed this land to E. Hudnall November
11, 1818, the consideration named being $330.a On May 10,
1838, Elizabeth Hendricks (widow), formerly the widow of
E. Hudnall and holder of the title to the Daniel Hogans
tract, conveyed the property to Rev. David Brown (who at
that time was rector of St. Johns Church in Jacksonville,
48 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
and editor of the Jacksonville Courier newspaper) ; the con-
sideration named in this transfer was $700. David Brown,
on October 18, 1849, sold to John Brantly and Mrs. P. W.
Bryant (afterward Mrs. George Houston), jointly, for $500.t
Mr. Brown seems to have lost money in this deal, if the con-
sideration given in the deed, $500, was the full selling price.
John Brantly and Mrs. George Houston in January, 1850,
reached an agreement for the division of the property, the
transaction being properly drawn up and recorded. Both
Brantly and Houston began to sell parcels to different par-
ties, some for saw-mill sites and others for other purposes.6
Robert Hutcheson, 1818
(Avondale, Ribault Place, Ingleside Heights)
Robert Hutcheson (often spelled Hutchinson in the rec-
ords) on January 9, 1818, obtained a concession from Gover-
nor Coppinger of 350 acres bounded Northerly by his
(Hutcheson's) grant of 1815, Easterly by St. Johns River,
Southerly by George Atkinson's lands, Westerly by vacant
land. (This is the property involved in the "over-lap" con-
troversy described on page 44.) The land-grant commis-
sioners approved Hutcheson's claim to this property June
17, 1824.a Robert Hutcheson died in possession, and Eliza-
beth Hutcheson, his widow, executrix under his will, sold
both the grant and the concession to Dr. Whipple Aldrich,
October 25, 1830. Grant and concession both trace through
the same chain to Elias G. Jaudon, namely, Whipple Aldrich
to William McKay, March 19, 1836; to Francis D. Scarlett,
March 2, 1850; to Elias G. Jaudon, April 11, 1850.-
Elias G. Jaudon died in possession of the concession in
1871, except the narrow strip along the northeasterly line
previously deeded to his daughter Sarah J. McKinlay. His
will provided that the .property, then known as "Magnolia
Plantation", be divided equally among his wife and four
children, naming them. This was done March 10, 1872, by
three regularly appointed commissioners. The division was
platted as Lots 1 to 5 inclusive, and assignment made:c
Lot 1, Jane I. Jaudon; Lot 2, Laura A. Weeks; Lot 3,
Mary E. Duffie. Avondale and Ribault Place are subdi-
visions of these lots. Lot 4, Thomas H. Jaudon. Ingleside
Heights is a part of Lot 4. Lot 5, Ella L. Jaudon, now subdi-
vided into building lots.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
John R. Hogans, 1820
(Springfield)
During the latter part of the year 1820, John R. Hogans
settled on land north of Hogans Creek, and under the Dona-
tion Act received title to 640 acres. This is called Hogans's
Donation. He conveyed these 640 acres to W. G. Dawson
July 24, 1823.a On February 3, 1829, I. D. Hart, ex-officio
administrator of the estate of W. G. Dawson, deceased, con-
veyed the tract to John Warren. John Warren conveyed it
to I. D. Hart October 25, 1829. Hart sold it to Thomas G.
Saunders in 1846. On September 9, 1847, Thomas G. Saun-
ders conveyed it to Adeline Jones.c
*Adeline Jones was the daughter of John Middleton and
Captain Middleton bought this property for her for $450 in
gold. On August 4, 1849, Adeline and husband sold 50 acres
for $50 to E. A. DeCottes; this is now Hansontown. In 1867,
4 acres were sold to Frank Franklin (colored) for $100; now
called Franklintown.g
With the above exceptions Hogans's Donation descended
to Eliza Jones (afterward Mrs. W. M. Bostwick), daughter
of Thomas W. and Adeline Jones. The bulk of it was sold to
the Springfield Company in 1882, and by that company
platted into lots.g
The name Springfield was given to the section north of
Hogans Creek about 1869, it is said by C. L. Robinson, and
the name was really suggested by a spring of good water
located in a field through which West Fourth Street would
now pass.g
Along the Riverfront
When the United States acquired Florida (1821) the en-
tire riverfront on the north side from Commodore's Point
to Ortega was held under Spanish grants or concessions, ex-
cept for two little breaks. There was a gap about as wide
as a city block at the foot of King Street where the Dell and
the Hutcheson lands failed to meet; and another of a few
hundred yards south of Fishweir Creek between the Atkin-
son and McIntosh (McQueen) lines. Elsewhere in this locali-
ty on both sides of the river and in the back country were
other grants and concessions and donations, but those traced
here have the most important bearing on the built-up por-
50 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
tion of the city. The chain of title to these is remarkably
complete, especially for the early times, when the filing of
a deed was considered a matter of no vital importance, as a
transfer of land then became a matter of public knowledge.
Sometimes deeds were held for years before they were re-
corded.
Bibliography. Chapter III
aAmerican State Papers, Public lands, Vol. IV: bBill of Complaint in suit to quiet
title; cTitle abstracts; fNewspaper account; gMrs. W. M. Bostwick; hFlorida Reports,
Vol. V, 216; Vol VL p. 483; Vol. XIV, p. 162.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER IV
JACKSONVILLE FOUNDED
First Settlers
Robert Pritchard, as has been noted, was the first white
settler on the site of Jacksonville when he established him-
self here in 1791. Whether the overseers cultivating the
land for the Pritchard heirs joined the Patriots in 1812 or
were driven off by them is not known.
The grant made to Mrs. Maria Taylor in 1816 comprised
a part of the land formerly occupied by Pritchard. Mrs.
Taylor married Lewis Zachariah Hogans shortly after she
procured the grant, and they at once began building a home.
About Christmas time (1816) they moved across from the
south side of the river and occupied their new home. The
house was built of logs, but it was larger and more carefully
constructed than the usual log cabins of that day. It stood
near the northwest corner of Hogan and Forsyth Streets,
partly in Forsyth Street, immediately west of the present
Duval Hotel. Hogans cleared a field east of his house and
fenced it; his eastern fence ran alongside a swamp, about
where Laura Street is now. In the spring of 1817 he planted
a crop from which he gathered in great abundance.a The old
Hogans well, situated where the U. S. Government building
now stands, was a landmark remembered by citizens up to
a few years ago. The log cabin gave way to a better house
(frame) before the War Between the States.
*L. Z. Hogans laid down his life in the Spring of 1837 in
the war with the Seminoles. He left practically no estate.
The grant made to Juan Maestre, also in 1816, joined the
Maria Taylor grant at what is now Market Street. Maestre
took possession of his land in 1817 and built his cabin at what
is now the southwest corner of Forsyth and Liberty Streets.a
It was a typical one-room log cabin. Maestre cleared a
field and put in a crop in the spring of 1817, but he never
gathered it. The "Carthagenians" took possession of Fer-
nandina about that time, and fearing a repetition of the
Patriot troubles, the Spanish garrison at San Nicholas and
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
the Boats of the Royal Domain to which Maestre was at-
tached, were withdrawn to St. Augustine. He therefore was
taken away from his new home and lost his crop. Maestre
never returned to the St. Johns.a
John Brady arrived at the Cow Ford in the summer or
fall of 1818, and occupied Maestre's cabin, probably under
some sort of rental contract, until June 21, 1820,when he ob-
tained title to the grant by conveyance from Maestre. Brady
fixed the cabin up, built an addition to it and erected a shed
for a stable. He bought a dugout for the purpose of sculling
passengers across the river, as he no doubt saw the need of
a ferry and figured that it would increase his income.a The
cabin was on the side of the road near the ferry and travelers
usually rested here and fed their horses, furnishing another
means of revenue for the pioneer.h
*John Brady moved to Alabama in February, 1823.
The First Store
Among the early travelers to the St. Johns country were
two men from Georgia, William G. Dawson and Stephen E.
Buckles, who foresaw that some day a town might be built
at this point. They decided to remain and open a store; this
was probably in 1819. They built a log house near the King's
Road (south side of Adams Street, about 150 feet from the
southwest corner of Market) ; brought down a stock of goods
by sailing vessel from New York, and opened a mercantile
establishment.a This was the first store in this section of the
country, and Dawson & Buckles worked up a good business.
It was not what we usually picture as a general country
store carrying all kinds of small articles; the stock comprised
such goods as blankets, saddles and bridles, farming imple-
ments, buckets, and the like. Sometimes the proprietors
sold out of goods entirely, for transportation by sailing ves-
sel was slow and uncertain, prohibiting the regulation of
supply and demand.b
*Stephen E. Buckles returned to Georgia probably in 1822.
William G. Dawson died in Jacksonville October 19, 1826;
he was prominent as a man of affairs, and at his death owned
the 640 acres now known as Springfield and other property of
considerable value.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Isaiah David Hart was the next settler at the Cow Ford;
he came in January, 1821. Hart was not a stranger to this
locality, for he was a Patriot of 1812. Accounts of the store
that had been opened at the Cow Ford reached him while he
was living on his farm near the St. Marys River; hearing
of Dawson & Buckles' success and that John Brady was
doing well, he decided to move here and locate permanently.c
On May 12, 1821, I. D. Hart bought 18 acres from L. Z.
Hogans (bounded east by Market Street and south by the
river), paying $72 for the 18 acres, it is said in cattle. He
built a double log cabin (about where the Church club now
stands, on the south side of Forsyth Street between Market
and Newnan) ; brought his household goods here by boat and
his family across country. Daniel C. Hart, his brother,
came at the same time.a
First Hotel
Up to this time, the traveler wishing to spend the night
in the future metropolis of Florida, had a miserable exper-
ience ahead of him.b John Brady was kind-hearted and of-
fered such as he had, but his cabin afforded little that was
inviting, and his guests usually slept under the trees with
a saddle for a pillow. Often Dawson & Buckles came to the
rescue by offering the use of the attic above the store, and
occasionally in special cases spread stock blankets on the
store-house floor for the comfort of some visitor. Dawson
& Buckles were the first to see the need of better accommo-
dations for those who wished to stay and see the country,
and they built a frame house east of their store. (at the south-
west corner of Adams and Market Streets) for a boarding
house. It was constructed of lumber sawed in a sawpit and
was the first frame house in this section of the country.
Upon its completion in 1821, its owners sent down to St.
Johns Bluff for Mrs. Sarah Waterman to come and take
charge. Upon her arrival the population of the settlement
increased one hundred per cent, as she brought her four
daughters and two young sons with her.a
*They were Helen; Ann (married Joshua Hickman);
Louisa (married Wm. H. Burritt); Lydia (married Milo Pinks-
ton); Adin. The name of the other son is not known. Mrs.
Waterman died Sept. 4, 1830. Adin and Lydia figured in the
LaVilla land titles.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Mrs. Waterman's boarding house, called the "Inn", was
frequently mentioned in the newspaper (St. Augustine) ac-
counts of the early court days in Jacksonville. A young bar-
rister writing for the St. Augustine paper stated that he was
glad to sit down to supper "at which a good-looking girl pre-
sided."d
Joseph Andrews, brother-in-law of I. D. Hart, was the
next settler to arrive at the Cow Ford. He built a frame
house on what is now the south side of Adams Street, mid-
way between Newnan and Ocean Streets.a
This was the resident population when Jacksonville was
founded. All resided within the limits of the town as later
surveyed, except L. Z. Hogans.
Jacksonville Founded, 1822
When the actual transfer of Florida to the United States
was accomplished in July, 1821, travel from the States in-
creased, and most of the land travel to East Florida came
down over the Kings road and, consequently, to the settle-
ment at the Cow Ford. I. D. Hart had not been here long when
he conceived the idea of laying off a townsite. He experienced
considerable difficulty in convincing his neighbor, John
Brady, of the possibility of developing a town here; bur
finally, though not enthusiastic about the matter, Brady con-
sented to donate the land necessary for the streets. When
all was in readiness for the survey, a question arose that
nearly broke up the plan, for Brady and Hart could not agree
as to the dividing line between their lands from which the
survey was to begin. After considerable dispute they at last
agreed to accept the claim of L. Z. Hogans that the corner
tree stood on the river bank at the foot of the present Market
Street, and the survey should start from there.e
*There is a note in an old abstract that I have examined
stating that this tree was a fine old bay. The naming of Bay
Street may have been influenced by this fact.
The town was surveyed in June, 1822, under the super-
vision of three commissioners, residents of the neighbor-
hood, namely Francis J. Ross, Benjamin Chaires and John
Bellamy. The surveyor was D. S. H. Miller, who formerly
was connected with the Spanish post San Nicholas as "Cap-
tain of the Rural Militia of the St. Johns River, District of
JACKSONVILLE AS ORIGINALLY SURVEYED IN 1822
DUVAL ST
A/,ONROE ST
7
ADAMS ST
FOSTSY A ST 57
BRADY
S HISTORY of SACAKSON.V/lE AiR-AP ---- B
SB-------A Y ST
1 1 1 1 I I I
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ANDREWS
'I
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
San Nicholas, and Deputy Surveyor". John W. Roberts
acted as Clerk.f
It was decided that there should be six lots, each 105 feet
square, in each block-two lots adjoining north and south
(210 feet), and three lots east and west (315 feet). The sur-
vey began at the corner tree agreed upon and thence north-
erly a street was surveyed, eighty feet in width, the proper-
ty owners on each side donating 40 feet. This was Jackson-
ville's first street and was given the name Market Street,a
but why it was so named seems to have become a lost record.
The next street laid off was Bay Street with a width of
seventy feet. The first square designated and numbered was
east of Market and north of Bay, and in compliment to Brady
as the first settler present upon the land in that part of the
survey, it was designated Square No. 1. The next square
was across Market Street west of No. 1, and it was desig-
nated No. 2. The square north of it was numbered 8; and
east of that, 4. When the survey was being made of Square
No. 1, it was found that Brady's house would be in the street,
according to the original plan; so another tier of lots was
added on the east side of Square No. 1, making this square
eight lots instead of six, but saving Brady from living in the
middle of the street.a Thus the tier of blocks between Liber-
ty and Market Streets is composed of eight lots instead of
six.
The survey was then extended to Square No. 5 east of No.
1, the Kings road leading north from the river between them.
The street was named Liberty Street, but in the old records
it seemed to have been occasionally called Ferry Street also.
The square north of No. 5 was designated No. 6; north of
that, No. 8; west of that, No. 7; and west of No. 7, No. 9.
This was the surveyor's wrong marking and was not cor-
rected on the original plat.a
From the survey of Square No. 9, the commissioners came
back to Bay Street and ran off Square No. 10 west of No. 2;
and north of No. 10, they surveyed Nos. 11 and 12, respec-
tively. Again they came back to Bay Street east of Wash-
ington Street and laid off Square No. 13 east of No. 5; and
north of No. 13, they surveyed Nos. 14, 15, 16 in the order
named. Then they turned west and surveyed Nos. 17, 18,
19, and 20. Here they stayed their work and never resumed
it.a
56 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE; FLORIDA
Town Named
By unanimous agreement the town was named Jackson-
ville, in honor of General Andrew Jackson, popular idol of
that day in Florida. The name was suggested by John War-
ren, a resident of the locality, but not of the town; he had
served as a volunteer in the army of General Jackson during
the Indian troubles in West Florida." General Jackson was
not present when the town was surveyed, as some accounts
have stated; in fact, there is no authentic record that he ever
visited this part of Florida at all.
Street Names
The streets named by the commissioners in 1822 still bear
their original names. Market and Bay cannot be definitely
traced as to their meaning. Liberty and Washington indi-
cate the patriotism of the commissioners. Newnan was
named for Col. Daniel Newnan, here with the Patriots and
who made the famous campaign against the Indian King
Payne in central Florida; and afterward was Inspector-Gen-
eral of Georgia. Forsyth was named for General John For-
syth, U. S. Minister to Spain, who conducted the negotiations
for the acquisition of Florida. Adams Street was named for
John Quincy Adams, then Secretary of State in President
Monroe's cabinet, and who had a great deal to do with the
cession of Florida; Monroe Street for President James Mon-
roe; and Duval Street for Governor William P. Duval, first
civil governor of Florida.
First Realty Transfer
At the time Jacksonville was platted and named the town-
site was in St. Johns County. Duval County was not created
until two months afterward, or on August 12, 1822. Conse-
quently, the first deeds specify St. Johns County in their
description.
The first transfer of a lot in the town of Jacksonville was
from John Brady to Stephen Eubanks, conveying Lot 2,
Square 1, including the margin to the river, for $12.00. The
deed was dated July 1, 1822, and described the lot as follows :
One quarter acre of land lying in St. Johns County, in Jacksonville,
on the St. Johns River, in the front street leading from the ferry, to-
gether with the margin below sd. lot on the river side, to Hart's land-
ing, 3d lot from sd. ferry.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The margin on the river mentioned is now Water Lot No.
22, between Market and Liberty Streets in front of the Clyde
Line piers.
D. S. H. Miller, the surveyor, acquired several lots in
Square 5, maybe in payment for his services as surveyor of
the townsite. John Bellamy bought the northwest corner
of Liberty and Bay Streets, and John Warren bought lots
in different locations. Conveyances of lots were made at in-
tervals during the next few months at prices ranging from
$10 to $25 a lot.g
Jacksonville's Situation
The original survey extended to Catherine Street on the
east, Duval Street on the north, Ocean Street on the west,
and St. Johns River on the south. All along the river from
the foot of Liberty Street westward to L. Z. Hogans's east-
ern.fence (Laura Street) was a hammock through which no
one ever passed; the present Main Street south of Duval was
a swamp. Eastward of the ferry (Liberty Street to Catherine
Street) was a high bluff; east of Catherine Street was low
marsh land. North of Forsyth Street was open pine land ex-
tending back almost to Hogans Creek. The Kings road led
in from the northwest, passing in front of Dawson's store
and the "Inn", thence to Liberty Street east of Brady's
cabin, where it turned down Liberty Street to the old Cow
Ford. Amidst these surroundings, and with this artery of
travel leading to the outside world by land and the St. Johns
River by water, Jacksonville was launched upon its career.
The Founder of Jacksonville
When I. D. Hart arrived at the Cow Ford in January, 1821,
there were already here a store and two settlers. It is said
that upon arrival he pitched a tent at the foot of Liberty
Street and lived there until he built his cabin and brought
his family here from the St. Marys. The next year, 1822,
the town was surveyed after the arrival of several other
settlers. I. D. Hart was the originator of the idea and de-
serves the credit of being Jacksonville's founder. He lived
to see the settlement develop into a town of two thousand
inhabitants. At one time or another he owned nearly all the
land now known as the old city, and the most of Springfield.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
He also owned a farm near the present settlement of Mariet-
ta; this place he called "'Cracker Swamp", and he seems to
have cultivated it to a certain extent with slaves and free
labor. His homestead was in Jacksonville, first in his log-
cabin; then at the northwest corner of Bay and Market
Streets, and finally, for many years, at the southeast corner
of Laura and Forsyth Streets.
I. D. Hart outlived all of the early settlers. Both he and
his wife, Nancy, died in 1861, and were buried in a vault
that had already been erected by him for his family, located
on a plot of ground on the east side of Laura Street between
State and Orange, back from the Laura Street line about 100
feet. His tomb bore this queer inscription:
When I am dead and in my grave,
And these bones are all rotten;
When this you see, remember me,
That I may not be forgotten.
In 1896, the Hart vault was broken into by vandals who
removed everything of value, including the silver name-
plates. This led to an investigation by a reporter for a local
newspaper, who published the fact that there were evidences
that nine bodies had been placed in the vault, namely, I. D.
Hart, his wife and children, and Mary E. Hart, a favorite
niece.
*The children of I. D. and Nancy Hart were: Ossian,
Lodusky, Laura, Daniel, Julia, and Nancy. Nancy was an in-
valid and met the sad fate of being burned to death. Laura
and Julia Streets are named for two of these children. It has
been said that Ocean was formerly Ossian Street, but the Child
map of 1847 designates it as Ocean.
The fire of 1901 greatly damaged the old Hart vault and
instead of rebuilding it, the remains it contained were moved
to a lot in Evergreen cemetery and the vault in the city de-
molished.
Bibliography, Chapter IV
aHistory of Florida, Webb; bDescriptive article in East Florida Herald (St. Augus-
tine), Dec. 20, 1825; cFlorida Times-Union and Citizen, Jan. 1, 1900; dEast Florida
Herald (St. Augustine), April 14, 1826; eFlorida Reports, Vol. VI, p. 491; fMemoirs of
Florida, Fleming; gCounty (Archibald) records : hEarly newspaper accounts.
58
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER V
COUNTY AFFAIRS
Duval County was created August 12, 1822, by the first
council under Governor William P. Duval's administration.
Its original boundaries were: Suwanee River on the west; a
line drawn from the mouth of the Suwanee River to the foot
of Liberty Street in Jacksonville (designated in the Act as
the Cow Ford), thence down the St. Johns River as it mean-
ders to the ocean was the southern boundary, while the St.
Marys River and the Georgia line constituted the northern
boundary.- Jacksonville was selected as the county seat of
the new county.
The governing board of the county comprised four jus-
tices, one of whom was the presiding justice. While it was
termed a county court its jurisdiction was extremely limited
in that respect and the name county commissioners would
have been more appropriate for the duties performed. As a
court their jurisdiction did not approach the importance of
our present justices of the peace.b The first meeting of this
court was in Jacksonville on December 16, 1822. The justices
were: Thomas Reynolds, presiding; William G. Dawson, Rig-
non Brown, and Britton Knight. George Gibbs was the
clerk., They proceeded to lay off the county into road dis-
tricts, apportioned the work of building the roads, and at-
tended to other matters of a like sort.b James Dell was the
first sheriff of the county, but he did not serve long; Daniel
C. Hart was his successor, being later appointed U. S. mar-
shal and holding both positions until his death.'
First Regular Court
The half a dozen houses comprising the Town of Jackson-
ville, in 1823, were all situated in plain sight of the Kings
road that led down to the ferry at the foot of Liberty Street.
Travelers coming and going, or stopping for awhile, produced
no exceptional stir; but on the last day of November, 1823,
which was Sunday, it became evident that an event of un-
usual importance was about to transpire. People had been
coming in all day looking for a place to lodge. Mrs. Sarah
Waterman's Inn was filled to the limit. Joseph Andrews had
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
all the guests that he could accommodate and I. D. Hart's
abode had no vacant space. Abraham Bellamy offered the
use of his 10x12 law office recently erected next to Brady's
old cabin, and W. G. Dawson went further and spread blan-
kets on the floor of his store for some of the overflow to sleep.
L. Z. Hogans, over on the hill beyond the swamp, played host
to one or two. So Jacksonville and vicinity went to bed' that
night crowded to capacity.
When the morning glow of Monday (December 1st) be-
gan to brighten over the roadside settlement on the St. Johns,
it was the dawn of a new day for Duval County. By 10
o'clock, 200 people had assembled in the vicinity of Market
and Forsyth Streets to witness the convening of the first reg-
ular court of law held in this part of the country. It was an
impressive spectacle. Standing bareheaded, with no roof above
them except the forest trees, they listened intently to the
words of Judge Joseph L. Smith in the opening proceedings
of what was then called the Superior court. The ceremony
was new to the most of them, but all were apparently pleased
with the scene, signifying that civil law had stepped in to
take the place of the long established custom of personal
settlement of differences.d
*The corner-stone of the handsome junior high school in
Springfield was laid in 1923, and the building dedicated to the
memory of General Edmund Kirby Smith, the famous Confed-
erate general, who fought for the just cause as he saw it.
There is also another association here, for it was the centen-
nial of the event described above, when General Smith's father
established the cause of justice for the county at Jacksonville.
First Grand Jury
From among those assembled at the opening proceedings
of the court, a grand jury was drawn and impanelled the next
day, December 2, 1823. The members of this first grand jury
of Duval County were: John Bellamy, foreman; Stephen J.
Eubanks, John Houston, Isaac Tucker, Charles Broward, Sey-
mour Pickett, John Broward, John Price, James Dell, William
Matthews, Cotton Rawls, A. G. Loper, Llewellyn Williams,
Charles Seton, John D. Braddock, J. C. Houston, Nathaniel
Wilds, Stephen Vinzant.c
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
First Civil Case
The first civil case called for trial was that of Ephraim
Harrison vs. John D. Vaughan. The record does not show
the nature of this litigation, but evidently it was of some
importance, as Judge Smith ordered the continuance of the
case until the next term. The record recites:':
"(In case) This day came the parties aforesaid, by their attorneys,
and thereupon came a jury, to wit:-F. D. McDonnell, Lewis Christopher,
Britton Knight, James Rouse, William Sparkman, John Higginbotham,
David Turner, Matthew H. Philips, John G. Brown, John G. Rushing,
William G. Dawson and Lewis Thigpen, who were sworn well and truly
to try the issue joined between the parties; and on motion of the plain-
tiff by his attorney, and for reasons appearing satisfactory to the court,
it is ordered that the jury be discharged from rendering a verdict here-
in, and that this cause be continued until the next term, upon the plain-
tiff paying all costs of the defendant herein expended."
County Courts
In 1823, the Legislature made some changes in the origin-
al method of county government and appointed new jus-
tices, but it was not until the following year, 1824, that the
law vested them with powers about equal to our present
justices of the peace. They had jurisdiction over probate
matters, over the police of the county, and performed the
duties of county supervisors. As a court they had a certain
amount of jurisdiction in minor cases.a The first incumbents
under this law, appointees of the governor, were: John L.
Doggett, presiding; F. Bethune and John Houston, appointed
December 30, 1824.c The minutes of this court in the early
years are still preserved. The actual duties seem to have
been mostly with matters pertaining to the roads of the
county and to the question of raising funds for the comple-
tion of the court house and keeping it in repair. Even as
late as 1840, the notation "Met and adjourned, there being
no business" often appears.
*"Court Day" in the early days was the time when the
people of the county came to town whether they had court
business or not. They assembled to trade, to hear the "news"
and to mix with their fellow men. Here and there among the
trees could be seen little groups dickering on a horse trade;
others in the stores bargaining with the storekeepers for im-
plements and supplies, while loitering around the court house
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
whittling away the time for the "Hear ye, hear ye, hear ye",
etc., of the court crier were those whose business or curiosity
led them there. Leaving for home they raced out Kings road in
a cloud of dust.
First Lawyer in Jacksonville
Abraham Bellamy, son of John Bellamy the commis-
sioner, was the first lawyer to settle at the county seat. This
was in 1823. He built a little office west of John Brady's
cabin, which was then owned by his father, and here he drew
up most of the early legal papers for the residents of this
section.b Enough odds and ends of descriptions have been
gathered to picture it as a typical country lawyer's office,
equipped with a table and time-worn chairs of home manu-
facture; a few law books scattered here and there amidst a
disorderly array of bundles of papers; a map tacked up
against the door; plenty of dust, and finally a box spittoon
filled with sand. Nevertheless, Abraham Bellamy's ability
as a lawyer was greater than his surroundings indicated, for
he was afterward a familiar figure in the Territorial councils
and at one time was president of that body.
*John Bellamy moved to Middle Florida in 1826 and
Abraham Bellamy likewise sometime later.
First Marriage License
One of Duval County's oldest official records is a court
copy of the first marriage license issued by the county. It
reads:'
Territory of Florida
County of Duval
To any Judge, Justice of the Peace, ordained Minister of the Gospel,
I license or permit you to Join together in the Holy State of Matrimony
Mr. Robert Robertson and Miss Sarah Tucker, and this shall be your
sufficient warrant. After the above marriage is solemnized you are
hereby commanded to return the same certified on this license to my
office.
October 7, 1823. J. BELLAMY, Clerk.
The First Court House
Court evidently was held under the trees until 1825, as
prior to that time there was no building here suitable for the
purpose. In 1825, John Warren erected a two-story building
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
at the northwest corner of Bay and Newnan Streets. The
lower story was for a time used as a dwelling and was after-
ward divided for a store. The upper floor was one room;b
here the Superior court held two or three terms, with con-
siderable discomfort as there were no sash windows, and the
wind and rain had full sweep through.f
When it became known that Jacksonville had been selected
as the county seat John Brady conveyed the lot at the north-
east corner of Market and Forsyth Streets (actually valued
at $15) to Benjamin Chaires and Francis J. Ross in trust to
be conveyed to the county as a site for the court house.b
Preparations for building a court house were started in 1824,
but actual construction did not begin until the summer of
1825. Immense hewn timbers were hauled to the lot and
when they were laid out for framing the people of the county
voluntarily gathered and under the direction of Seymour
Pickett raised them in two days.b When this was done
Messrs. Chaires and Ross deeded the lot to the county (July
13, 1825) in compliance with the trust from Brady.
The court house remained in this state more than three
years, with only the framing standing. In 1826 the base-
ment was roofed over and subsequent terms of court were
held there when the weather was good; or else in the hall
over John Warren's place.f About 1828-9, the framing was
boarded in and the roof put on. The temporary hewn tim-
bers supporting the construction were removed and brick
pillars of great size and strength were built and the building
correctly leveled. The court house faced the river. A long,
broad portico, supported by brick pillars was before the front
and broad steps led up to it from the ground. Back of these
was the entrance to the basement, which was ten feet in the
clear. The main entrance was ten feet high and was pro-
vided with wide double doors. Inside steps led up on the east
and the west to the upper story. The windows, seven feet
high and four feet wide, were provided with double shutters
of white pine, which closed out the wind and rain and also
the light.b
This court house was known far and wide as the best
constructed building in all of this part of the country.b The
difficulties confronting the county authorities in raising
funds for the completion of the court house are recorded in
their minutes. They petitioned the U. S. government to
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
complete it, as the Superior court was using it more than any
other, which brought about an arrangement whereby the
government paid the county rent for its use; they had diffi-
culty sometimes in collecting this rent promptly. They peti-
tioned the Territorial Legislature for permission to run lot-
teries in order to raise the $6,000 needed to complete the
court house. Joseph B. Lancaster, I. D. Hart and William
J. Mills were authorized by the Legislature to conduct the
lottery. These gentlemen were all church members and one
was a deacon; the inference is, that lotteries in that day were
not considered gambling.
*Something is hidden somewhere behind this struggle for
funds to complete the court house, for the people of this section
in the 1830's prior to the Seminole war and the panic of 1837,
were evidently enjoying prosperity, as they were laying plans
for a $75,000 bank and a million dollar railroad for the county
seat. Yet they opposed a special tax levy to raise the $6,000
necessary to complete the building.
The court house was not finally completed until sometime
in the early 1840's, from funds derived from a scrip issue.
The building was burned by Federal troops March 29, 1863.
*Duval County has built three court houses. The second
court house was built on the site of the one burned in 1863, but
faced Market Street instead of Forsyth. It was solidly built of
brick, with unusually thick walls. Construction was com-
menced in 1884 and the building completed and occupied in
November, 1886. A full description of it will be found in the
Florida Times-Union of November 5, 1886. The court house
walls were the only ones in the city that withstood to any
extent the great fire of May 3, 1901. They remained standing
and were used in reconstructing the building now occupying
that corner, which has the same ground space and the same
outline as the court house, except the shape of the tower.
The present court house was completed in November, 1902,
at a cost of $100,000 secured through a bond issue. The site
was shifted across Market Street because the county already
owned the two lots on the west side of Market between Adams
and Forsyth Streets, and needing more ground for a larger
court house than the lot at the northwest corner of Market and
Forsyth would accommodate, it was decided to reconstruct the
old court house for an armory, and build the new court house
across the street. The court house annex was completed in
October, 1916, at a cost of about $90,000.
DUVAL COUNTY CLERK'S OFFICE
J .
1- '
From a photograph Courtesy of Geo. M. Chapin
Built after the War Between the States; burned May 3,1901. Situated at the northwest corner of Market and Forsyth Streets.
DUVAL COUNTY COURTHOUSE
(1886-1901)
Courtesy of Geo. M. Chapin and C. H. Brown
Completed in 1886. Gutted in the fire of May 3, 1901; but its walls
remained intact and were used in reconstructing the building. Situated
at the northeast corner of Forsyth and Market Streets.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Judges of Duval County: Thomas Reynolds (presiding),
1822-1823; Benjamin Chaires (sole), 1823-1824; John L.
Doggett (presiding, then sole judge), December, 1824, to
January, 1844 (died in office); Farquahar Bethune, 1844-
1845; William F. Crabtree, 1845-1849; Felix Livingston,
1849-1855; Benjamin Hopkins, 1855-1856; R. R. Rushing,
1857; Oscar Hart, 1857; R. R. Rushing, 1858-1859; Chandler
S. Emery, 1859-1861; Francis F. L'Engle, 1861-1863; None
in 1864; F. I. Wheaton, 1865; Aristides Doggett, 1866 to
July, 1868; W. A. McLean, July, 1868, to December, 1888;
W. B. Owen, 1889-1892; William H. Baker, 1893-1900; Henry
B. Philips, 1901-1920; John W. DuBose, 1921 to date.
Bibliography, Chapter V
aActs of the Territorial Councils; bHistory of Florida, Webb; cMemoirs of Florida.
Fleming; dDescriptive article in Jacksonville Courier, January, 1835; eRecords in
County Judge's office; fEast Florida Herald (St. Augustine) of the period.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER VI
DEVELOPMENT OF JACKSONVILLE
For several years after the survey of Jacksonville in
1822, I. D. Hart must have experienced severe disappoint-
ment, for his dream of a boom town at the Cow Ford did not
materialize rapidly. Brady and Hogans, who scouted the
idea in the beginning, no doubt expressed themselves upon
occasion, "I told you so". Brady shortly afterward sold out
and moved away, but L. Z. Hogans remained to perpetuate
the expression.
Up to 1828-30, the development of the place was confined
to the building of about one house a year within the town
limits. A dismal picture was drawn of it by a writer in the
East Florida Herald of St. Augustine, December 20, 1825;
he said:
When this town (Jacksonville) was laid out on the St. Johns river,
great expectations were formed of its rapid increase, commodious
houses were soon to be built, commerce and useful mechanic arts were
to flourish, and the soil improved by cultivation and industry. But alas!
none of these fond expectations have been realized. There are not more
than eight or ten houses erected of any description, most of which are
rudely formed of logs, and affording only a feeble protection against
the cold, the wind, and the rain. There is not a sash window in the
whole town; but few of the houses have even a chimney.
There appears to be very little trade of any kind carried on in the
place. There is, indeed, one store of goods, but whether well or ill
supplied, the writer of this article is unable to state, for although he
was several days in the place, during the late term of the Superior
court held there, and was desirous of purchasing many necessary
articles of merchandise, usually kept in country stores, he never found
this store open or any person ready to attend upon purchasers. He
therefore presumed it was only a warehouse for the deposit and trans-
portation of goods into the country and not for their sale at the place.
It was, perhaps, a wholesale and not a retail store. As to mechanics,
there does not appear to be a single working individual in the whole
place.
The building appropriated for the use of the court would scarcely
be considered fit for a barn. It is open to the wind and rain at almost
every point of the compass. There is, indeed, the frame of a pretty
large courthouse erected, which has the appearance of having been in
that state for some time. Nothing has since been done to it.
Yet nothing can be more beautiful than the natural situation of
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
the place. It commands an elevated, picturesque, and extensive view
of the St. Johns river at its majestic bend from the south. It is
admirably situated for commerce; the water is of sufficient depth for
vessels of upwards of a hundred tons burden, to moor close to the
shore.
The regular term of the Superior court, directed by the Legislative
council to be held twice a year, lately drew together at this place a
pretty numerous assemblage of strangers. Every house was crammed
as closely as possible. The judge of the court, with several members
of the bar at St. Augustine, having been detained by the badness of
the famous King's road from that city to the Cow-ford, on their
arrival at Jacksonville were unable to obtain any kind of lodging there
--even on the floor. They were therefore compelled to take up their
quarters at Mr. Hendricks's on the other side of the river, a respectable
planter, who does not professedly keep a public house, though often
influenced by hospitality and kindness to accommodate travelers. He
is licensed to keep the ferry on that side of the river, and promptly
afforded the Judge and the gentlemen who had business in court every
facility in crossing the river.
This is one of a number of descriptive articles on Jack-
sonville published in the St. Augustine paper prior to 1828.
All stress the beautiful situation of the village, but complain
about the accommodations at court terms. "Junior Bar-
rister" in the Herald of March 26, 1826, remarked that it
was customary for the grand jury to lodge in the open air
and suggests "with the intention of keeping their heads cool,
in order to deliberate with more caution and prudence."
First Sawmill
In 1828 or 1829, Charles F. Sibbald built the first steam
sawmill in East Florida at Panama on Trout Creek. He also
operated a brick kiln. Judge F. Bethune, in his diary 1829-33
(still preserved), frequently refers to the steam sawmill and
brick kiln at Panama, in connection with building operations
at his "New Ross" plantation on the river four miles above
Jacksonville. During the summer of 1829, Judge Bethune
built a small sugar mill. The lumber and brick were brought
up from Panama in the brig "Venus"; he sent to St. Augus-
tine for a carpenter, and the mill was ready for operation by
January 1, 1830. He began grinding cane, but soon after-
ward his cane mill broke down and he had to send again to
St. Augustine for the carpenter. In three weeks it was
repaired and he began to grind again. This was probably
68 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
just an ordinary cane mill, and the circumstances are recited
to show the difficulties confronting the pioneers of this
section.
Judge Bethune's crops were sugar cane, rice, guinea corn,
arrow root, sweet and Irish potatoes, rye, and a varied as-
sortment of vegetables. He had a peach orchard and an
orange grove. He owned some slaves, but at harvest time
he hired outside help or free negroes. When his slaves were
sick he sent to Jacksonville for a Doctor Hall, no doubt the
first doctor to settle here. It is interesting to note that the
usual method of treatment was "bleeding": "Andrew sick;
Dr. Hall came and bled him" is a characteristic note when
any of the slaves were sick. And when one died he noted
the fact as "Dick and George making Peggy's coffin; buried
the old and faithful servant in the evening"-a simple eulogy
full of meaning.
The sawmill and brick kiln at Panama revolutionized the
method of construction in this section and the log-cabin era
in Jacksonville was brought practically to a close. The
skeleton of the court house was boarded in with lumber from
this mill and its pillars were built of the brick from the kiln.
The sound of the axe and the crash of falling trees in and
around Jacksonville became more frequent with respect to
clearing up for a building; in the high-flown language of Mr.
Secretary Walton, "the lofty pines and oaks yielded their
shade to the saw and their quietude to the hammer". It was
now not a rare occurrence for the "Venus" to be tied up at
the foot of Liberty Street unloading sawed lumber for houses
or brick for chimneys.
In 1830, I. D. Hart built what was then considered a very
large two-story boarding house at the northwest corner of
Bay and Market Streets" (and this was continuously a board-
ing house or hotel site for more than 70 years). Hart's inn
furnished accommodations for people who desired to spend
the winter here. The sons and relatives of wealthy men in
the North came during the winter months and the climate
helped them; they went back home greatly benefited, carry-
ing an enthusiasm that is easily communicated to others.
So the healthfulness of the locality was established-the
greatest asset in the upbuilding of a place and the greatest
advertisement it could have. People continued to come.
Some stayed and entered into business; some settled in the
surrounding localities. In 1830, it is estimated that the
'iir~
I'.
Ijai, 4
K?
From old woodcut.
Dwellings of the log-cabin, era at the mouth of McCoys Creek.
7:w"^ L k>. ....
/I1'r ^k-^-^w -
a-- -= 5-,
E~ 16
-~Z~S ~v ri'
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
population of Jacksonville was about one hundred. I. D.
Hart now had his turn with L. Z. Hogans with respect to "I
told you so".
The settlement on the St. Johns was approaching the
stage when its citizens wished to incorporate and have a
bona-fide town government. It was soon accomplished. Act
No. 70 of the Legislative Council of the Territory of Florida,
Session of 1832, was Jacksonville's first charter. This char-
ter is worthy of careful reading, for it gives an insight into
the conditions of the time, either existing or expectant. The
charter follows in full.
Jacksonville's First Charter, 1832
Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Governor and the Legislative Council
of the Territory of Florida, That all the free white male inhabitants
of the age of twenty-one years and over, comprehended within a line
commencing at a point on the South bank of the river St. Johns, oppo-
site Hogan's creek, on the north side, running north half a mile up said
creek, thence west one mile and a half to McCoy's creek, thence south
to a point on the south side of the river St. Johns, opposite to McCoy's
creek, thence east to the point of beginning and their successors be,
and are hereby declared to be a body politic and corporate, by the
name and style of the Town of Jacksonville, with all the rights, lib-
erties, privileges, powers, and authorities incident to and appertaining
to a corporation, body politic, or a natural person; and by the said
name and style may sue and be sued, plead and be impleaded, hold,
possess, and enjoy real estate and personal property; and dispose of
and transfer the same, and so dispose of and manage the funds of said
city, as shall be most beneficial to the interests thereof.
Sec. 2. Be it further enacted that the government of said town,
shall be vested in a person to be called a mayor, and four aldermen
to compose a council for the management of the affairs of the town.
The Mayor and aldermen shall be elected annually, on the first Monday
of April, from among such of the qualified voters of said town hereby
incorporated, as shall have resided within the limits thereof at least
one month, and shall be housekeepers therein.
Sec. 3. Be it further enacted, That the said Council shall have the
power and authority to pass all laws and ordinances, that may be
necessary and expedient for the good government of said town, and
the preservation of the public morals; Provided, that they are not
inconsistent with the constitution and laws of the United States, and
the power hereby granted, Provided no law or ordinance in this respect,
shall be inconsistent with any law of this Territory-They shall espe-
cially have power to regulate, improve, alter, and extend the streets,
lanes, avenues, and public squares, and to open new streets, and to
cause encroachments, obstructions, decayed buildings, and old ruins
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 71
to be removed; making the parties injured by any improvement, a
just compensation, and charging upon those benefited a reasonable
assessment, to be ascertained in such manner, as shall be agreed upon
by the parties, or by a jury of twelve men, to be organized in such
manner, as, by ordinance, the said council may provide; They shall
have power to prevent and abate nuisances, to order and compel the
owners or occupants of lots, upon which pools of water are, or are
likely to accumulate, to fill them up, to regulate and compel persons by
ordinances or otherwise, to erect and keep in repair partition fences;
and may pass all laws and ordinances that may be necessary to pre-
serve the public health-They shall have authority to guard against
the introduction of infectious or malignant diseases, and for this pur-
pose, may prohibit or regulate the ingress, or approach of vessels into
the waters within the limits of said corporation, and whenever neces-
sary, may compel them under fixed and certain penalties to perform
quarantine, and observe such other rules and regulations, as to the
said Council may seem proper by ordinance to establish. They may
construct wharves, keys, and docks, and regulate wharfage, dockage,
and mooring and anchoring vessels, erect bridges and ferries and
establish the rates of ferriage and tolls; They may erect all necessary
public buildings, and dispose of the same as the interests of the town
may require; and make and sink wells, erect pumps, dry drains, and
do and perform all such other act or acts, as shall seem necessary, and
be best adapted to the improvement and general interests of the
town, and pass all necessary laws to guard against fires, and to ensure
the sweeping of chimneys; they may establish and regulate markets,
and require all persons bringing fresh provisions into the town, to
exhibit them for sale at proper market hours, establish and regulate
the weight and assize of bread, the inspection of provisions and other
produce, being the growth or manufacture of the Territory, that may
be brought in said town for sale, or which may be sent from it; the
gauging of liquors, the measuring or weighing of any articles of pro-
duce or merchandise, and the storing of gunpowder; and all naval and
military stores, not the property of the United States. They shall
have the power to tax auctioneers, and license and tax retailers of
goods, and liquors, hawkers, peddlers, tavern and public boarding house
keepers, hackney carriages, carts and drays; restrain lotteries, tippling
houses, gaming houses, houses of ill fame, and theatrical or other
public exhibitions, suppress riots and disorderly assemblies, and may
provide for the punishment of all persons guilty of breaches of the
peace, within the limits of said town, by fine and imprisonment; Pro-
vided the fine shall in no case exceed five dollars and the imprisonment
five days.
Sec. 4. Be it further enacted, That the said Town-council shall
further have the power and authority to provide by tax, or otherwise,
a fund for the support of the poor, the infirm, the diseased and insane;
to establish public schools and provide for their maintenance, and to
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
organize patrols, and provide for the punishment of negroes and per-
sons of color.
Sec. 5. Be it further enacted, That the said Council shall have the
power to assess, levy, and enforce the collection of all taxes, and other
impositions, as may be necessary for the support of the government
of said Town, and the improvements thereof-Provided, that no higher
rate of tax shall be levied upon real estate than one half of onq per
cent on the assessed value thereof, to be determined by assessors chosen
in such manner as said council may provide, and the said taxes to be
collected by distress and sale, after default shall be made in the pay-
ment thereof, in the most convenient and least expensive way, as to
the said mayor and aldermen shall be deemed expedient-and the said
council shall have power further to provide for the trial of all offenses
that may arise under the ordinance of said town, and shall enforce
the collection of all fines and penalties that may arise as aforesaid,
in such manner as said council by ordinance may provide.
Sec. 6. Be it further enacted, That it shall be the duty of the
mayor to see that the ordinances of the town are faithfully executed,
recommend for appointment all necessary town officers and report
and cause their removal, whenever by negligence or misconduct the
interests of the town may require it-he shall preside at all meetings
of the board, and propose such measures as he shall think important
to the public interest, but shall only be entitled to a casting vote, and
shall have power to convene the board whenever it may be deemed
necessary-he shall have, possess, exercise and enjoy all the powers,
duties and privileges and receive the same compensation as a justice
of the peace.
Sec. 7. Be it further enacted, That the mayor and two aldermen
shall form a quorum for the transaction of all business; they may
compel the attendance of their absent members, under such pains and
penalties as by the rules may be prescribed; judge of the qualification
of members, and of the sufficiency, correctness, or regularity of election
returns; settle their own rules of proceeding, and upon the recommen-
dation of the mayor, appoint and remove all officers, and fix their com-
pensation, and establish such fees as may or ought to be allowed for
such services, as may be required of them-their meetings shall be
public, and they shall cause a journal of their proceedings to be kept
and regularly authenticated by the signatures of the mayor and clerk,
which shall be kept open for the inspection of all who may be inter-
ested in the proceedings of said council: The ayes and noes upon any
question, shall be entered upon their journals upon a call of any two
members-they shall make public all their ordinances and resolutions,
before they shall have force and efficacy, by posting written copies
thereof in two or more public places in said town.
Sec. 8. Be it further enacted, That all white male inhabitants of
the age of twenty one years and over, who shall have resided within
the said town, at last one month immediately preceding the day of
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
election, shall be entitled to vote for mayor and aldermen, they being
citizens of the United States-All votes shall be given by ballot.
Sec. 9. Be it further enacted, That the elections shall be conducted
by three inspectors, to be appointed at least two weeks before the day
of election, by the mayor; the said mayor shall also appoint the place
of holding the said election, and give public notice thereof for the like
period of time.
Sec. 10. Be it further enacted, That the said inspectors shall be
judges of the qualifications of voters; and it shall be the duty of them,
or any two of them, on the day appointed by law for holding the elec-
tions, to open the poll for the reception of votes, and to cause the names
of voters to be recorded in a book to be kept for that purpose, which
shall be deposited at the close of election amongst the archives of the
corporation; the polls shall open at nine o'clock in the morning, and
close at five o'clock in the afternoon, after which the inspectors shall
proceed to count the votes, and declare the persons elected, as mayor
and aldermen, and make out a written certificate thereof, at the foot
of the poll list, and deliver a copy to the mayor elect, who, upon receipt
thereof, shall signify his acceptance or refusal.
Sec. 11. Be it further enacted, That if the said mayor elect shall
signify his acceptance of said office, the former mayor shall as soon
as practicable, at any time within five days, assemble the board, and
in their presence, administer to him the following oath: "I, A. B. do
solemnly swear, or affirm, that I will to the utmost of my power sup-
port, advance and defend the interests, peace and good order of the
town of Jacksonville, and faithfully discharge the duties of mayor of
said Town, during my continuance in office; and I do further swear,
that I will support the Constitution of the United States"; and the
Mayor elect, upon being thus qualified, shall then administer the like
oath to the aldermen elect, and thereupon the duties of the former
board shall cease.
Sec. 12. Be it further enacted, That if the Mayor elect, or any of
the Aldermen, shall decline to accept the office to which he or they
may have been elected, or if accepting any or either of them, shall not
qualify, by taking the prescribed oaths, within five days, that then
the Mayor in office, or any person exercising the duties thereof, shall
by proclamation, direct an election to be held for supplying such seats
in the board as may be vacant, giving at least one week's notice there-
of, designating at the same time, the persons appointed to superintend
and conduct said election.
Sec. 13. Be it further enacted, That if the office of Mayor, or any
Alderman, shall at any time become vacant, by death, resignation,
removal, or otherwise, it shall be the duty of the Mayor, or the person
exercising the duties of mayor, agreeably to this act, in like manner
as is provided in the preceding section, to order a new election to fill
such vacancy or vacancies.
Sec. 14. Be it further enacted, That Isaiah D. Hart, John L. Dog-
gett, and Henry H. Burritt, be and they, or any two of them, are
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
hereby appointed inspectors to superintend the election for Mayor and
Councilmen, on the first Monday in April, 1832: Provided, that nothing
hereby enacted shall be construed to exclude the legislature of this
Territory from the right to repeal, alter, or modify this act as it may
deem proper.
Passed Feb. 9, 1832.
Approved Feb. 11, 1832.
The town limits were greatly enlarged by the charter.
Jacksonville now embraced the territory between Hogans
and McCoys Creeks south of about Church Street. The elec-
tion was held in accordance with the provisions of the char-
ter and William J. Mills was elected mayor; he was therefore
the first mayor of Jacksonville.
Jacksonville was the ninth town incorporated in Florida.
Those previously chartered were: St. Augustine, Pensacola,
Fernandina, Key West, Quincy, Magnolia, Apalachicola, and
Ochesee.b
1832-1835
During the period between the incorporation of Jackson-
ville (1832) and the outbreak of the Seminole war (1835)
the village increased in population, almost doubling in size.
In 1834 plans were laid for a railroad from Jacksonville to
Tallahassee, later to be extended to the gulf coast. The
company organized as the Florida Peninsular & Jacksonville
Railroad Company, and among the directors were J. B. Lan-
caster, I. D. Hart, W. J. Mills, F. Bethune, and Stephen Eddy
all of Jacksonville. The capital was limited to $1,000,000,c a
sum almost unheard of in that day, yet these men were in
earnest about the matter.
In 1835, the Bank of Jacksonville was incorporated with
a capital of $75,000,b though it did not open until 1837.
In January, 1835, Lorenzo Currier, of Boston, published
the first issue of the Jacksonville Courier, an ably edited
weekly newspaper
There is a record that S. L. Burritt & Co. embarked
about this time in a wholesale trade with Cuba and thereby
laid the foundation for Jacksonville's claim to the wholesale
distributing center of Florida. They shipped lumber, bar-
relled fish and other goods to Cuba and brought back sugar,
coffee, rum, molasses, salt, cigars, fruit, etc. This firm
brought in on one occasion a vessel load of sugar, the first
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
cargo of sugar ever brought here, and greatly overstocked
the market in all this part of the country.a
Jacksonville in 1835 was probably a place of 250 people,
far too small in itself to warrant the establishment of a bank
and a newspaper, or even to think about building a million
dollar railroad; but settled all around, both up and down the
river, were men wealthy for that day, who transacted their
commercial and legal business here, and it was their support
as well as the progressive spirit of the citizens of Jackson-
ville that inspired these important measures. They were
drawn into the whirl of enthusiasm and speculation that was
sweeping the country about that time and which ended in
the panic of 1837-40.
Great Freeze of 1835
February 8, 1835, was the coldest day ever known, before
or since, in this section. At 8 o'clock that morning the ther-
mometer stood at 8 degrees above zero, Fahrenheit, and the
actual minimum was undoubtedly lower. Along the river
bank the water was frozen several rods from the shore and
afforded the inhabitants a spectacle as new as it was dis-
tressing. Fruit trees of every description were destroyed,
roots and all, and even some of the forest trees were killed
by the cold. This freeze is the basis for all subsequent com-
parisons.,
Bibliography, Chapter VI
a'Webb's History of Florida; bActs of Territorial Council; cJacksonville Tri-weekly
Sun, Feb. 19, 1876; dCopies are still in existence; eRecords in possession of Weather
Bureau.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER VII
THE SEMINOLE WAR PERIOD
*Gradually the Seminoles were driven southward in advance
of the white man as settlement in the peninsula of Florida in-
creased. Finally the desire arose to get rid of the Seminoles
altogether and they were enticed into an agreement to emi-
grate to the West and occupy lands in what is now Indian Ter-
ritory. Some of the chiefs, among them the famous Osceola,
did not enter into this agreement to emigrate, and when the
time came for them to go they refused. The attempt to force
the removal brought on the Seminole war, which developed into
the longest and most disastrous Indian war in the history of
the United States.
In the summer of 1835, it was known that the Indians
were on the verge of outbreak, but every one thought the
war would be of short duration and after a few skirmishes
the Indians would be so badly punished they would be glad
to emigrate to the West. A prolonged war was simply out
of the question from the view-point of the whites. Planters
went about their farm operations as usual and trade with
the interior continued unabated. In the fall there were
ominous mutterings of coming trouble, still the popular
belief was that it would not last long. Short-time volunteers
were called for to frighten the Indians into agreeing to emi-
grate.
The war opened December 29, 1835, when Osceola and
twenty followers shot and killed General Wiley Thompson
and others at Fort King, now Ocala, and Major Dade's com-
mand was massacred in Sumter County, near the present
town of Bushnell, two separate events on the same day. The
news of these disasters spread through the country like wild-
fire. People everywhere in the interior abandoned their
homes and collected in the towns for protection. Many of
them came to Black Creek and on to Jacksonville. Trade
with the interior gradually ceased, and although it was ex-
pected that hostilities would be confined to the middle portion
of the peninsula, the stoppage of trade with the interior, a
large portion of which was handled through Jacksonville,
was perceptibly felt in business circles here.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The Block House
The Governor of Florida issued a proclamation to the
people advising them to build block houses in every com-
munity, as a means of protection against the Indians. One
was built in Jacksonville, probably in 1836, at the northeast
corner of Ocean and Monroe Streets. This structure was one
of the famous buildings here and is mentioned in nearly
every account of the early town. It was a structure of logs-
a large square room raised high above the ground on a
pedestal-like base. It was entered through a door in the
floor, by means of a ladder. In the event of attack, the ladder
could be drawn up and the opening closed. Portholes were
provided on all sides, and also in the floor, through which to
shoot. The object of the overhanging construction was to
prevent its being set on fire, since in trying to fire the house
an Indian could be shot from overhead. The block house
stood at what was then the frontier of the town. All north
and west of it was barren waste. Every rumor of Indians in
this section caused the timid residents to seek its protection
at dark. Sentries did guard duty at night and "many an
amusing scene could they relate, caused by the electric imag-
ination of the weak-nerved when it came their turn to go on
post".b During its fifteen years of existence the block house
served the community well, first as a fort and then as a place
for holding religious services.
Jacksonville was a supply depot during the war, sub-
commissary to the chief post at Middleburg. The govern-
ment built a long one-story wooden building on the south side
of Bay Street, between Main and Laura, near Laura, as a
storage for supplies. This was popularly called the "govern-
ment building". It was built high above the marsh-for that
region was then nothing more than marsh land, and along
the Bay Street side a raised sidewalk furnished an entrance.
This building stood for many years.
Attacks by the Indians
In the summer of 1836, roving bands of Indians attacked
and destroyed several plantations along the lower St. Johns,
among them those of Colonel Hallowes and Mr. Travers.
They also appeared here and there in Western Florida, be-
tween the Suwanee River and Tallahassee. The settlements
in the Black Creek country and on the east side of the St.
78 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Johns above Jacksonville had, many of them, been broken
up, although a few planters who had been kind to the Semi-
noles, remained on their farms and were never molested.
On September 15, 1836, a band of Indians attacked the
house of a Mr. Higginbotham seven miles west of Jackson-
ville, but they were driven off by members of the household,
who barricaded themselves in the house and fired at the
Indians. After the Indians left, Mr. Higginbotham rode
post-haste to Jacksonville to give the alarm, and Major Hart
and twelve men immediately went in pursuit. Major Hart's
party found all well at the Higginbotham home and pushed
on down the trail toward the Tallahassee road. When they
reached the Fleming Johns farm they found the house a heap
of smoking ruins in which were the charred remains of Mr.
Johns. Several miles farther on, at Mr. Sparkman's, they
found Mrs. Johns, severely wounded, but still alive. Mr. and
Mrs. Johns were attacked at 10 o'clock in the forenoon, while
they were in the yard of their home, and although Mr. Johns
was shot through the chest, both he and his wife managed
to reach the house and close the door. The Indians broke
open the door and shot Mr. Johns dead. They dragged his
wife to the door and told her to go, but at that moment an
Indian shot her through the arm and neck. She fell through
the doorway, but they dragged her back into the house and
with a large butcher knife scalped her. They then plundered
the house and set fire to it. Mrs. Johns, though greatly
weakened from loss of blood, managed to crawl out of the
burning house after the Indians left. Fainting from weak-
ness at frequent intervals, she at last reached a nearby
swamp, got some water, and lay down to die. Here searchers
found her at 2 p. m. They took her on a horse and conveyed
her to a neighbor's, Mr. Sparkman's, several miles away.
She was later removed to Jacksonville and placed in a com-
fortable boarding house, where medical attendance and
humane attention soon relieved her of much of her physical
suffering and she finally recovered.c
An Englishman persuaded Mrs. Johns to go to Washing-
ton to apply for a pension. Her likeness was taken and hung
in the capitol. She was afterward exhibited, but the Eng-
lishman ran off with the money. Mrs. Johns then returned
to Savannah where she married a man named Mathas. Some
years later Mathas was stabbed by a crazy man and died in
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Savannah. Mrs. Mathas returned to Florida and died here
in 1874.d
The year 1836 closed with the Indians holding their own
everywhere. They overran the country, killing express
riders, attacking wagon trains, and burning farm houses, and
as a result no operations, except those of a military nature,
were carried on in the country districts. The comparatively
extensive trade that Jacksonville had enjoyed with the in-
terior was entirely destroyed, and on account of the public
unrest such enterprises as were contemplated were aban-
doned. Instead of being a small affair that would terminate
with a display of force and a few volleys from the troops,
the war wore on for seven years. As time went by, however,
the field of operations receded from this section and went
farther and farther southward.
Panic of 1837
In 1830, there began an era of extravagant speculation
and reckless enterprise in the United States. Population
was increasing and production was increasing even faster
than population. As the means of communication between
producer and consumer were decidedly inadequate, a uni-
versal need was felt for transportation facilities that would
insure quick delivery at moderate prices. The popular de-
mand for railroad and canal construction became so great
that conservatism and good judgment were swept aside.
States, cities, and towns all over the country were drawn
into the whirl of enthusiasm, and many of them made large
bond issues to carry on the work of construction. Naturally
business in all lines became inflated, and when such is the
case a crisis is inevitable. An over production in the cotton
crop of 1836 caused a drop in prices and hastened the panic
that had its beginning in 1837. During the hard times that
followed many of the States had to resort to extraordinary
measures to pay the interest on their debts, and some actually
repudiated their debts and refused to pay. The States had
issued bonds in the aid of the construction of railroads and
canals, and in the South especially subscribed to bank stock
for the purchase of which they also issued bonds. There-
fore, many bank failures occurred when the crash came.e
Florida had a better excuse for repudiating her debts than
the other States, as the disastrous Indian war, which was
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
still going on, had cleaned out her treasury. Jacksonville
had experienced the inflation and she was feeling the result.
The ambitious enterprises that had been planned were aban-
doned.
There was, though, another side to it for Jacksonville.
Besides the army officers and troops that came to the State,
the war drew many people here, desirable citizens and adven-
turers alike, for there is something about a new country like
Florida was at that time, that lures people. The adventurers
did not settle and left when peace was at last restored, while
a number of good people stayed and made this their perma-
nent home. The effects of the panic gradually wore away and
the zone of hostilities receded until the town returned to
almost normal business conditions, despite the fact that rov-
ing bands of Indians still made an occasional attack upon
some outlying settlement. Trade with nearby points was
resumed and gradually extended to the interior.
Some light is thrown upon the conditions in this section
in letters from Mandarin about this period; the following
are excerpts:f
Mandarin, March 13, 1839.
But I must broach the all absorbing, all exciting theme-the
mulberry. I thought when at New York I had made a good contract,
but it has proved far otherwise, for I found much to my surprise that
the fever was raging higher here than at Hartford or New York, for
not only had some of the mulberry planters returned from travelling
at the North, but several Northern men had come here to buy mulberry
and plant here to avail themselves of our climate; so instead of finding
plenty of opportunities for buying cheap, as I had every reason to
expect, I found only buyers riding through the country in search of it.
This was a double disappointment, for in the first place I had formed
a plan to purchase up all the mulberry in my neighborhood as
soon as I arrived and with my own take it to New York and make quite
a speculation with it *. I have barely time to say that I have sold
what I could spare and reserved enough to make a great number this
season, but such was my fear that something might occur to reduce
the price that I sold them too soon and did not get more than
half as much as I might soon after, for such is the rage for planting
that they have risen to the enormous price of 3 cents an eye for cut-
tings. The Davenports have shipped a great quantity. One lot of
trees at St. Augustine sold for $50,000.
Mandarin, July 10, 1840.
The unaccountable or rather abominable circumstances of the
war, keeping me out of the possession of my place and the total failure
of the mulberry market, deprives me of all resources for the present.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 81
* Neither can I do anything at improving my orange grove without
exposing myself to danger, for Indians are bolder than ever. They have
dispersed themselves into small parties and prowl about like wild
beasts. They have committed murders near us upon the public roads
that have been travelled in safety until this season and the prospect
never has been darker than the present for its termination. There is
no way to account for this state of things, but by the political condition
of our country, being on the eve of a presidential election. *
(Near) Mandarin, Jan'y. 1, 1842.
You will doubtless think I had some cause for melancholy
reflections when I tell you that I was but little better than a guard for
protection-the Indians came into the very neighborhood of Mandarin,
murdered one family and plundered and burnt out three, and that I
had just gotten settled at my place again after spending 2 or 3 months'
time and some money. This is the third time I have been obliged to
abandon my place and sacrifice time, money, and everything but my
life. In all former wars with the Indians they never were known
to come into Mandarin settlement before. And during this war of
more than six years they never have come nearer than Julington Creek
(to my neighbor, Mott, adjoining me); therefore at this late period
when this part of the country had been so long quiet the inhabitants of
Mandarin thought no more of Indians than if there were none in the
Territory, but now their fears are as great or greater than at any time
since the war broke out. It had been long reported and was generally
believed that the troops had gotten almost all the Indians out of the
Territory and that the war would soon be terminated. But alas! we
have just experienced another cruel disappointment and there is no
more security or prospect for its termination than at its commence-
ment. I have barely room to say that the creeping, skulking
Indians never would have ventured into Mandarin settlement but that
there are no troops within 100 miles (20 or 30 except); they were all
taken south in pursuit of Sam Jones and his warriors. I hear that
troops are on their way to be stationed near us for our protection. If
so I may return to my place, for all that return to reoccupy their places
are now furnished with provisions till the next crop season. *
Bibliography, Chapter VII
aSee histories of Sprague, Williams, and Coe in relation to the Seminole war;
bHistory of Florida, Webb; cTerritory of Florida, Williams; dNewspaper account
written by nephew of Mrs. Mathas; eInternational Encyclopedia, see "Crisis", "Repu.
diation," etc.; /Letters of J. P. Belknap in possession of M. A. Brown of Jacksonville.
82 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
CHAPTER VIII
IN THE FORTIES
With the ending of the Seminole war and the recovery of
the country from the hard times following the panic Jack-
sonville's growth became more pronounced. In 1842 the
population was 450 and in 1847 it was 750,a an increase in
five years of 67o%. Though much smaller in population than
St. Augustine, Jacksonville had by this time come to be con-
sidered the most important town in East Florida, on account
of its location with respect to marketing the principal reve-
nue-producing commodity of the time-cotton. Cotton was
grown extensively on the plantations of this section and it
was brought to Jacksonville and shipped from this point by
sailing vessel. A considerable amount of timber was also
shipped from here.b Thus Jacksonville grew to be the trad-
ing point for a large surrounding territory. Steamer com-
munication with Savannah was more or less regular on a
weekly schedule bringing the mail, and a steamboat made
weekly trips up the river as far as Enterprise. These boats
were small, but they marked the beginning of a most impor-
tant transportation facility for Jacksonville, which later on
contributed largely to its growth.
Local Conditions in the Early 1840's
The dwellings here were mostly one story wooden struc-
tures of rough boards as there were no planing mills then.
Many of them were unplastered. Stoves had not come into
use; the fireplace was the only means of heating and this
was looked upon as a luxury for the well-to-do. The stores
were rough buildings with rude fittings. The ordinary neces-
sities could be purchased in the town; most of the stores car-
ried general stocks,c and from the rear of many of them came
that unmistakable odor that permeates the air where whis-
key kegs are kept. The stores usually closed at dusk; the
stillness of the town at night after 9 o'clock, the curfew hour,
signified that Jacksonville had gone to bed.d
There was an event known to have occurred in the early
1840's that must have shaken the community with excite-
ment.
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
The Pelot-Babcock Duel
This was a fatal duel between two citizens that had been
the best of friends. They had been drinking and during a
game of billiards a controversy arose and the lie was passed.
In that day to call a man a liar was equivalent to a challenge,
and this case was not an exception. The principals were Dr.
Pelot and Mr. Babcock, both residents of Jacksonville. Rifles
were agreed upon as the weapons, the duel to be fought at
100 paces. Amelia Island was chosen as the place. For ten
days the principals practiced for the affair. They met at the
appointed time and place. The day was raw and very cold.
The paces were stepped off and each principal received his
instructions. At the word both fired simultaneously. Pelot
fell, shot through the stomach, the ball severing the spine;
he died shortly afterward. Dr. Henry D. Holland of Jack-
sonville was Dr. Pelot's second. Babcock went to New Or-
leans where, in utter grief, he drank himself to death.
*The code of ethics under which men lived in those days
was undoubtedly wrong in some respects, but certainly not in
all. Much of it was founded upon the principle of morality in
the truest sense. It was an honor system backed by public sen-
timent, without which no law is effective. Drinking was their
sin.
This incident in the life of the early town was of the
nature to be perpetuated in the memory of the citizens, and
the succeeding generation became familiar with the circum-
stances through hearsay. The account here given was writ-
ten by a citizen of Jacksonville at the time.
First Bulkhead
During a gale in October, 1846, the water from the river
was backed up by the wind until it reached across Forsyth
Street; water stood in the stores on Bay Street two feet deep.
The brig "Virginia", owned by Capt. Willey, dragged her
anchors and was driven from the foot of Market Street into
Ocean Street, her bowsprit extending across Bay. This led
two years later to the bulkheading and straightening of the
river front from Ocean to what is now Main Street. Hewn
logs were laid one upon the other and fastened together by
staples and chains. It was called a "buttment" and served
the purpose for a long time.f
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The map of Jacksonville of 1847 was drawn by N. R. Child, probably early in that year. The original was in the pos-
session of Dr. A. S. Baldwin and a reproduction of it was published in the Times-Union; the copy here published is based
on the reproduction. The names of some of Jacksonville's residents appear on the map and are here represented by the num-
bers corresponding to the following:
Judge Daniel
Poinsett
Col. Lancaster
McQuen
Capt. Congar
Duval
Livingston
Fennimore
Mr. Jack
I. O. O. F. Lodge
Hart's Office
Holmes
Kipp
Barbee
Holland
Goff
Court House
Davids
Col. Hart
Reed
Anderson
Douglas
M. R. C.
Judge Crabtree
Dorman
Dr. Baldwin
Frazer
Burritt
Burt
Capt. LEngle
Holmes' store
Capt. Willey
Wharf
Kipp's shop
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA
Newspapers and Politics
With the exception of 1841-2, Jacksonville had a weekly
newspaper during nearly all of this period, and after 1848,
there were two here. In the winter of 1842-3, George M.
Grouard, of Washington, D. C., established the Tropical
Plant; he published the paper until 1845. I. D. Hart, who
was running for (probably a State) office at the time, started
what he called the "Florida Whig and People's Advocate"
in the interest of his candidacy-he was a Whig. This paper
became defunct in about 30 days. In the fall of 1845, the
News was moved from St. Augustine to Jacksonville and
published by A. C. Gillett and A. B. Hazzard; it was Demo-
cratic in politics. In 1848, the Florida Republican was estab-
lished with Columbus Drew as editor. At this time national
politics and policies were undergoing an upheaval and the
two local papers were frequently engaged in a spicy news-
paper war in the interest of their respective parties. They
did not print much local news and often used a considerable
amount of "clipped" matter; yet it is remarkable that Jack-
sonville with a population less than a thousand should offer
inducements for the support of two good newspapers.
First Epidemic
In 1849, an epidemic of what was called "Broken-bone
Fever" started in Jacksonville. It was so general that in
many families all members of the household were sick at the
same time. Fortunately the epidemic was of short duration
and no deaths occurred as a result of the visitation. This
was probably a mild form of what is now called dengue.
Jacksonville passed through this period 1840-1850 with-
out any serious set-backs to its growth and advanced its
position from a village to that of a small town. In the latter
half of the decade the timber business began to come forward
as a large industry, which developed into a relatively enor-
mous lumber business in the 1850's.f
Bibliography, Chapter VI
GColumbus Drew: bNewspapers of the period; cFlorida Union, March. 1881: dIndi-
cated in early accounts; elL S. Farrar; f"Recollection."
JACKSONVILLE IN THE EARLY 1850's
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Between Duval and Church Streets near Pine (now Main) was a pond where the sports-
men of Jacksonville used to shoot ducks. The drainage was down Pine Street to the river,
and south of Adams Street was a quagmire. Wooden bridges were built across Pine Street
at Forsyth and at Bay.
copyri'0lod
The business district was Bay Street between Newnan and Ocean. It was a pastime to
stand in the rear doors of the stores on the south side of Bay Street and practice marks-
manship with rifle and pistol upon the alligators that came out to sun themselves on the
banks of the St. Johns.
|
PAGE 1
FOREWORD Two times there was a wholesale destruction of Jacksonville's official records-in the War Between the States and by the fire of May 3, 1901. The author's effort in this work was to collect all of the available authentic matter for permanent preservation in book form. The record closes as of December 31, 1924. The record is derived from many sources-long forgotten books and pamphlets; old letters and diaries that have been stored away as family memorials of the past; newspapers beginning with the St. Augustine Herald in 1822 (on fileat the Congressional Library at Washington) fragmentary for the early years, but extremely valuable for historical research; almost a complete file of local newspapers from 1875 to date; from the unpublished statements of old residents of conditions and outstanding events within the period of their clear recollection; and from a multitude of other sources of reliability. The search through the highways and the byways for local history was in the spare moments of the author stretching over a period of a score of years, a pastime "hobby" with no idea of making money out of it. No attempt has been made to discuss the merits of any incident, but only to present the facts, just as they were and just as they are, from the records and sources indicated. It is an unwritten law of copyright to give credit for the use of another's record or research in any publication. Such acknowledgment is made herein by connecting marks in the text leading to footnotes and to the bibliographies found at the end of each chapter. The use of the single asterisk (*) is reserved to indicate observations or remarks by the author of this history thrown into the text as little sidelights connected with the subject. This publication is fully protected under copyright with all rights reserved by the author; however it is not his desire to restrict its use as a reference history, and the courtesy of the unwritten law referred to above is extended to those who may find use for it. T. FREDERICK DAVIS. Jacksonville, Florida.
PAGE 1
ILLUSTRATIONS (Face page noted) Maps Page St. Johns River, Jacksonville to the ocean............. 1 Fort Caroline and vicinity....: .................... 13 Kings Road through site of Jacksonville ............. 26 Jacksonville as originally surveyed in 1822 ........... 55 Child's map of Jacksonville, 1847 .................... 85 Built-up portion of Jacksonville in the 1850's.......... 87 Map of Jacksonville, 1859 .......................... 115 Railroad map of Jacksonville, 1884 .................. 356 Map of area burned in 1891 ........................ 193 Map of area burned in 1901 ......................... 225 Illustrations Where the "Vale of Laudonniere" used to be.......... 12 Huguenot ring found in an Indian mound............. 17 Dwellings of the log-cabin period .................... 68 Vicinity of Forsyth and Main Streets in 1874......... 141 Freedmen's Bank building .......................... 141 Saloon of a St. Johns River steamboat, 1885 .......... 363 Bird's-eye view of Jacksonville, 1886 ................ 172 Seal of Jacksonville ............................... 293 First factory-made automobile in Florida ............ 379 Fire burning Jacksonville in 1901 .................... 219 Jacksonville in ashes, 1901, panorama view........... 244 St. James Hotel, burned in 1901 ..................... 487 City Hall burned in 1901 ........................... 332 County Courthouse, burned in 1901 .................. 64 County Clerk's Office, burned in 1901 ................ 65 County Armory, burned in 1901 .................... 474 Sky-line of Jacksonville in 1908 .................... 244 Flag of Jacksonville ............................... 422 Block plan of St. Luke's Hospital .................... 426 Sky-line of Jacksonville, 1914-1924 .................. 244 Airplane view of modern Jacksonville ................ 284
PAGE 1
ST. JOHNS RIVER, JACKSONVILLE TO THE OCEAN OEM o~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ! SCALE OFMILEG z EDA_ DAN~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~L ~~~~ACKS¢ i~~~~~~ i Co~Yri ghfed I Ei t.13, CuR ris & Koo*~ev
PAGE 1
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER I THE OPENING OF OUR HISTORY March 27, 1513, was Easter Sunday, Pascua Florida in the language of the Spaniard. Along the stretch that we now call the Florida east coast north of Canaveral the weather was stormy and the sea was running high. Off shore three caravels lingered with sails reefed down, for land had been sighted that day and the adventurers aboard, wishing to investigate, hove to for the weather to calm. They lois tered northerly along the coast a week; then they headed in, and in the night, April 2, came to anchor near the beach. Here the commander with his principal officers formally landed, probably at sunrise of April 3d. Throwing the royal banner of Spain to the breeze they declared allegiance to the crown and proclaimed possession of the country, which they supposed was an island, in the name of Ferdinand, their king. Following the custom of that day to commemorate important events with the names of feast days or patron Saints, in this case, because the discovery was made on Easter Sunday, they named the new land Florida. This scene on the beach was the landing of Juan Ponce de Leon and the opening of the positive history of the white man in North America. Fortunately, Ponce de Leon recorded the location of his landing and as it is the only record the observation 30 degrees and 8 minutes latitude must forever designate the locality where he first landed on the soil of Florida. Laid down on the map today, the location is about 11 miles south of the pier at Pablo Beach and within 25 miles of Jacksonville straight away. * It would appear that the existence of flowers here had nothing to do with naming the country. The native flora of the coastal beach section is there today, and one would wonder what Ponce de Leon, coming from verdant Porto Rico, could have seen to cause the enthusiasm attributed to him by history writers. The embellishment of the record to the effect that
PAGE 1
2 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA "the land was fresh in the bloom of Spring and the fields were covered with flowers" is pretty and pleasing, but it does not conform to the circumstances as we know them now in the early part of April even in the mildest season. There is no record that Ponce de Leon explored the country away from the coast. He found nothing here to lead him to suspect the existence of gold and precious metals in the country; and incidentally, no spring the waters of which possessed the qualities of restoring health and vigor, that tradition said existed somewhere in this part of the world. He did not tarry long. Boarding his vessels on the 8th of April, he soon turned back, struggling against the currents of the gulf stream in his progress southward. * From the top of the sand dunes in that locality the eye rests upon what appear to be refreshing woodlands. They are the oases hiding from view that stretch of marsh behind the dunes known as "The Guana," beginning seven miles below Pablo Beach and extending south toward the mouth of the North River at St. Augustine. Those who have been in "The Guana" duck hunting and waded the mud flats and network of marsh creeks there know from experience why Ponce de Leon remained on the beach near his vessels and did not attempt to penetrate the interior at this point. Indians of That Dayt The natives of the Florida peninsula in Columbian times comprised a number of tribes, each governed by a different chief. They did not live in constant peace and harmony with one another and sometimes were engaged in bitter tribal wars. This part of Florida was occupied by the Timuqua or Timucua tribe, whose domain reached from the St. Marys River to the headwaters of the St. Johns, but principally along the lower St. Johns. The costumes of the Timuquas were scanty, being scarcely more than a loin-cloth of buckskin for the men and for the women a fringe of Spanish moss tied around the waist. Both men and women painted their bodies in fantastic fashion; both wore heavy stone ornaments suspended from the lobes of their ears which they pierced for the purpose. The men wore their hair drawn to a peak at the top of their heads and t Bulletin of U. S. Bureau of Ethnology.
PAGE 1
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 3 tied like a topknot. The women wore no head decoration and left their hair flowing, except in cases of the death of a relative or friend they "bobbed" their hair as a token of distress. A chief or headman decorated himself with the tail of a raccoon or a fox drooping from the peak at the top of his head; deer-hoof rattles dangled from his loin-cloth, while suspended from his neck on a buckskin string a large shell disc six inches or more in diameter was sometimes worn. These Indians were tall of stature, muscular and very strong. They were an agricultural people, raising crops of maize and vegetables and tilling their fields with implements of wood and shell. Tobacco was known to them and they used it as an emetic in cases of sickness. Among their ceremonials was the "Busk Ceremony," sometimes referred to as the "Green Corn Dance," which lasted several days with a distinct ritual for each day. It was a harvest festival and celebration, but included ceremonials of penitence for crime within the tribe, as well as supplication for protection against injury from without. Their war ceremonies and celebrations of victory were on the order of those of the early Creek Indians and doubtless originated in a common source. These were the people in possession of this part of Florida when Ponce de Leon arrived. They were not the Seminoles of a later day. It may safely be assumed that the visit of Ponce de Leon left a lasting impression on the minds of the natives and that long afterward when they were in sight of the ocean they would look out to sea for the strange objects that brought the pale-face to their shore. A generation was born, grew up, and passed into middle age, yet these had not returned. Reports had now and then sifted through from the lower coasts that the white man had been down there, or from the direction of the setting sun that he had passed that way; they had heard of pale-faced people held captive by neighboring tribes, and had knowledge of one even among themselves several days' journey away; but it was not until the approach of the 50th annual harvest after Ponce de Leon's time that runners announced the return of the white man's vessels to this coast of Florida.
PAGE 1
4 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The French Arrive Gaspard de Coligny, Admiral of France and champion of the cause of the Huguenots, visualized the new land across the sea as a place where his unhappy countrymen might live according to their own ideals and at the same time build up a new dominion by colonization, thereby extending the possessions of France. It was a dream of colonization upon the republican principle of freedom of thought; but in it also was another ideathat of conquest. Coligny had already attempted to plant such a colony in South America, in the harbor of Rio Janeiro, but it had perished. However, he did not despair, and early in 1562 he despatched another expedition of two vessels from Havre de Grace to seek a place of settlement for the colony that was to follow. The command of these vessels was given to Jean Ribault, a native of Dieppe and a Huguenot. * Ribault's name was spelled in different ways by the historians of the 16th and 17th centuries. French-Ribauldus (rare), Ribauld, Ribault, Ribaut; the form with the "1" is the older. Spanish-Ribao. English-Ribault. Second in command of this expedition was Rene Goulaine \de Laudonniere, likewise a Huguenot. Ribault steered a new course across the Atlantic north of the West Indies and came in sight of the Florida coast near the present site of St. Augustine on the last day of April. The weather being favorable he sailed northward and just before sunset came to the mouth of a large river (the St. Johns), but did not enter it. He anchored outside the bar. At dawn the next day, which was May 1, 1562, Ribault and several officers and soldiers crossed the bar in their shallops (large rowboats with a number of oarsmen) for the purpose of exploring the river. They soon saw natives coming down to the bank of the river in a friendly manner, even pointing out to them the best place to land. Ribault and his party went ashore. An Indian approached and Ribault gave him a looking-glass. He ran with it to his chief, who took off his girdle and sent it to Ribault as a token of friendship. The two parties now approached each other. The natives greeted the white men with dignity and without indication of fear. After the greeting, the Frenchmen retired a short distance,
PAGE 1
HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 5 prostrated themselves, and gave thanks to God for their safe arrival. * This was the first Protestant prayer said within the limits of the United States; it cannot be positively stated that it was the first in North America, since there might have been Protestants with Roberval in Canada twenty years before. It was certainly not the first in the new world, for Coligny planted a Huguenot colony in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro in 1555, seven years before, and in 1557 sent out 4 Protestant ministers to preach there. The South American colony existed until 1560. The natives watched the ceremony of the Frenchmen in perfect silence. When it was over, Ribault pointed his finger upward to indicate to them that the white man worshipped a Supreme Being. The chief, supposing that he meant the sun, pointed two fingers upward signifying worship of both sun and moon by them. Captain Ribault was much pleased with the manners and appearance of these natives. He says of them, "They be of goodly stature, mighty, fair, and as well shapen and proportioned of body as any people in the world; very gentle, courteous, and of good nature. The forepart of their body be painted with pretty devised works, of azure, red, and black, so well and so properly as the best painter of Europe could not amend it. The women have their bodies painted, too, and wear a certain herb like unto moss, whereof the cedar and all other trees be almost covered. The men for pleasure do trim themselves therewith, after sundry fashions." * It has been said that the Spanish or gray moss is not native here, but the foregoing description is strong evidence that it is. These ceremonies took place on the north side of the river, where Ribault spent the forenoon. Distributing presents among the natives and receiving in exchange fresh fish, which the Indians skillfully caught in reed nets, the Frenchmen crossed over to the south side. The natives of the south side met Ribault in a friendly manner and offered fruit; but they seemed more suspicious than those of the north side, as they did not bring their women with them and had with them their bows and arrows. A few presents satisfied them,
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6 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA however, and the Frenchmen were allowed to go about unmolested. Ribault was greatly impressed with the natural growth on this side of the river. Trees, shrubs, plants and vines all excited his interest and wonder. His relation mentions grapes "of surpassing goodness" and vines that grew to the top of the tallest oaks; palms, cedar, cypress and bay trees. The Frenchmen spent the afternoon wandering over the high land near the mouth of the river. Toward sundown they again entered their shallops and returned to the ships outside the bar. Ribault Proclaims Possession The next day (May 2d) the small boats were manned and Ribault, his officers and gentlemen again entered the river and brought with them a "pillar or column of hard stone with the King's arms engraven thereon, to plant and set the same at the entry of the port, in some place, where it might be easily seen" (from boats entering the river). Coming to land on the south side, they selected a suitable spot on a little hill; here with appropriate ceremonies the monument was erected, and possession was taken of the country in the name of the king of France. * Shore-line and channel conditions at the mouth of the river have changed greatly since that day. The oldest maps show a projection on the south side of the mouth of the river like a protruding underlip. These primitive dunes were eventually washed away. A part of the lip evidently was where the sand field is making up on the left as you approach the south jetty on the beach, and according to many lines of reasoning this is where the monument was set up. Le Moyne's drawing indicates a sand dune location. The monument was erected before any Indians appeared; but soon they came, viewed the stone for a time in silence, and then retired without touching it or speaking a word. Ribault named the river the Riviere de Mai, or River May, because his tour of exploration was made on the first day of May. This is the only name that he bestowed at the River May. -The day passed very much as the preceding one, except that the Frenchmen became greatly excited when they noticed that some of the natives were wearing ornaments of
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 7 gold and silver. Ribault concluded from their signs that the country abounded in gold and that the rivers and harbors contained pearls of great magnitude. *It afterward developed that these ornaments came from the treasure ships of Spain that were wrecked on the lower Florida coast on their voyage home from Mexico. By trade and war the gold and other metals became scattered among the Indian tribes elsewhere, furnishing a lure that never failed to lead the white adventurer on. Ribault spent the day on the south side and returned to the ships toward sundown. The next day (May 3d) he proceeded northward and after investigating the rivers and harbors along the way, finally reached the coast of what is now South Carolina, where it was decided to leave a post called Charlesfort, composed of 26 men. Ribault and Laudonniere then set sail for France. * It is almost unbelievable that Ribault could have supposed this handful of men left in the wilderness at the mercy of the Indians had a chance to survive. Ribault arrived at Dieppe late in July and found civil war raging in France. The anti-Huguenot party was in control of the government and amidst the distraction that overwhelmed the nation a delay of nearly two years was experienced in getting another expedition together. Meantime the garrison at Charlesfort abandoned the post and embarked in a frail craft for home. Fortunately they were picked up by an English vessel, but not before they had been reduced to the horrible extremity of human sacrifice for subsistence. Laudonniere's Expedition The Elizabeth of Honfleur, 120 tons; the Petit Breton, 100 tons, and the Falcon, 60 tons, with officers, soldiers, mariners, artisans, and titled gentlemen adventurers aboard, under the command of Rene Goulaine de Laudonniere, left France in April, 1564, on a voyage across the Atlantic to Florida. These vessels came upon the coast in the vicinity of the present St. Augustine June 22d and entered the River May three days later. Laudonniere was entertained by the same chief that he met on the former voyage with Ribault. The stone column was still standing and appeared to be an object of great rev-
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8 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA erence to the Indians. Seeing the French approaching, as a token of friendship, they wrapped flowering vines (apparently the sea morning-glory) and wreaths of bay leaves around the pillar, while at its base were placed baskets of fruit and grain, together with a bow and quiver of arrows, symbolizing welcome and peace. When the greetings were over, Laudonniere made a short excursion up the river at least as far as St. Johns Bluff in order to observe the country. Then he returned to the ships waiting outside and coasted as far north as Amelia Island. He was in that vicinity two or three days and held a consultation with his officers as to the best place to make a settlement. They decided to return to the River May and plant the settlement in a "pleasant vale" on the south side of the river at the base of the "mountain" (St. Johns Bluff) that they had already examined, situated 2 1 /, French leagues (approximately six miles) above the mouth. * Laudonniere does not mention the men left at Charlesfort two years before, and his seeming neglect of them is not accounted for in history. Fort Caroline At the break of day on June 30, 1564, Laudonniere commanded the trumpet to be sounded. When all were assembled, he says, "We sang a psalm of Thanksgiving unto God, beseeching Him that it would please Him of His Grace to continue His accustomed Goodness towards us. The prayer ended, every man began to take courage." After measuring off a piece of ground in the form of a triangle, all became engaged in some duty-some cleared land, some cut fagots, others brought earth, "for there was not a man that had not either a shovel, or cutting hook, or hatchet, as for the building of the fort, which we did hasten with such cheerfulness that within a few days the effect of our diligence was apparent." Paracoussy (chief) Saturioua, on whose land the fort was built, came with his two sons and a great number of men to help. Fort Caroline was built in the form of a triangle, its base along the river front and its apex drawing toward the south. The westerly side was enclosed by a trench and raised by trusses made in the form of a battlement nine feet high. The portcullis was on this side. The southeastern side was a kind
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 9 of bastion; while the northern, or river side, was enclosed with a palisado of planks of timber. The houses were built inside the fort. The oven was placed outside some distance away "because the houses be of palm leaves, which will soon be burnt after the fire catches hold of them." Laudonniere named the fort "Caroline, in honor of our prince, King Charles," who at that time was only a boy. At this crude work took place some of the most tragic incidents of American history. * When first known to the white man St. Johns Bluff sloped down westerly into a little plain that occupied the cove between the present point of the bluff and Fulton. This plain was called by the French the "Vale of Laudonniere," and there, at the water's edge, Fort Caroline was built in order to get water for the moat. The plain has been washed away by the river, mainly since the jetties were built, and ships now pass over the precise site of Fort Caroline. In about a month Laudonniere sent the Elizabeth of Honfleur back to France with despatches for Coligny, retaining the smaller barks for use on the river. , The story of the French at Fort Caroline is one filled with pathos and tragedy. In the beginning all went well; they enjoyed amicable relations with the Indians and from them drew largely for their subsistence, themselves neglecting to make provision for the emergencies that were bound to come to those in such a situation. As time went on misfortunes began to multiply as a result of this inactivity, and, naturally, discontent then entered the ranks of the little band. Serious mutinies followed. On one occasion the conspirators seized a vessel belonging to the port and set out upon a freebooting expedition against the Spaniards in the West Indies. Some of the mutineers finally found their way back to the River May, where Laudonniere had four of the ringleaders executed. The others were captured by the Spaniards and taken to Havana. After awhile the Indians refused to share further of their stores, partly because their own stock was low and partly from the fact that nothing was given in exchange, the French by this time having exhausted the supply of exchangeable articles. Being reduced to the verge of famine, Laudonniere was induced, let it be said against his will, to seize the great Indian Olata Utina (head chief) and hold him
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10 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA as ransom for supplies. This scheme resulted disastrously for the French, since a number of them were killed in capturing the chief, while the enmity of the natives was raised to the highest pitch. Thoroughly disheartened, they at last decided to build a suitable vessel and return to France. English Sea-Rover Visits Fort Caroline Demolishing several houses and tearing away a part of the fort for timber, work was started on the vessel designed to take the colonists home. The construction progressed under many difficulties, as several of the most experienced carpenters had been killed by the Indians. Amidst these preparations, Sir John Hawkins, returning from a slave-selling expedition along the Spanish Main, unexpectedly appeared at the mouth of the River May, August 4, 1565, having been guided along the coast by a Frenchman, who was with Ribault on the first voyage to Florida. They were seeking the colony at Charlesfort, but when they reached the River May they saw two pinnaces and learned of the circumstances and condition of Fort Caroline two English leagues up the river. Hawkins paid a visit to the fort and supplied the French with meat and other provisions. He sold Laudonniere one of his vessels, taking some of the ordnance of Fort Caroline in payment therefore. Laudonniere says, "Moreover, for as much as he saw my soldiers go barefoot, he offered me fifty pairs of shoes, which I accepted and agreed of a price with him, for which until this present I am indebted to him; for particularly he bestowed upon myself a great jar of oil, a jar of vinegar, a barrel of olives, a great quantity of rice and a barrel of white biscuit. Besides he gave divers presents to the principal officers of my company, according to their qualities; so that I may say, that we received as many courtesies of the General as it was possible to receive of any man." After the departure of Hawkins, the French hurried their preparations for leaving Florida. By the 15th of August (1565) everything was in readiness, and they waited only a fair wind to hoist the sails. In this state of anxious suspense they were detained till the 28th, when the wind and tide became favorable and they were on the point of departing; but just at that moment the sails of several vessels were discovered at sea approaching the coast. Ribault had arrived!
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 11 Ribault's Second Voyage The settlement on the River May had not been forgotten by Coligny. At the first opportunity, during a lull in the civil war in France, he secured a royal commission for Captain Ribault to command an expedition to America. The full quota of soldiers and volunteers was quickly brought together. Some of the men embarked with their wives and children. The total number of emigrants was about six hundred. The fleet of seven vessels sailed from Dieppe in May, 1565. Experiencing adverse weather it put into several ports and was delayed in reaching the River May until August 28th, the day that Laudonniere was preparing to leave. Three of the vessels entered the river and proceeded to the fort, but the four largest could not cross the bar and remained at anchor outside. All of the colonists had landed and the disembarking of supplies had been in progress several days, when at night five Spanish ships came up from the south and anchored near the four French ships at the mouth of the river. The Spaniards claimed to be friendly, but the French trusting nothing, made ready for sailing. Their suspicions were soon verified and they cut their cables and sailed for the open sea, with the Spanish ships in pursuit. The chase continued until after sunrise, but the French outsailed their pursuers, who turned back and were in turn followed by a French ship. Observing that the Spaniards were landing soldiers and provisions (at St. Augustine), the French vessel hastened to the River May to notify Ribault, who was at Fort Caroline while all of this was going on. When the facts were related, Ribault immediately held a council of war. He favored attacking the Spaniards by sea immediately, but Laudonniere opposed the plan on the ground that it was the season of sudden storms and he thought it would be wiser to repair the fort and await an attack by the Spaniards. Most of the officers agreed with Laudonniere. Ribault, however, held to his decision and ordered the ships prepared for battle. The largest ship, the Trinity, flagship of the fleet, having outsailed the rest had not yet returned to the river and the attack was to be made without her. All of the fighting men that had just arrived together with the able-bodied of Laudonniere's force were ordered aboard. On September 10th, the fleet sailed from the
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12 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA River May on the mission of a sudden attack upon the Spaniards. Laudonniere remained at Fort Caroline. Ribault's fleet soon arrived off St. Augustine, having been joined by the Trinity in the meantime. While the decks were being cleared for action the wind died down into a complete calm-it was the calm before a hurricane. When the wind came again it grew rapidly into a gale from the northeast and Ribault's ships were driven southward and scattered down the coast. Spaniards Plan Attack Rumors of a French settlement in Florida reached Spain through the court of France. These rumors were verified by a report from Havana in an account of the mutineers from Fort Caroline that were captured, who in order to save themselves divulged the secrets of the French fort on the River May. * Spain claimed Florida by right of discovery and exploration and she seems to have had a good title to it through Ponce de Leon, Narvaez, De Soto and other voyagers. Thissettlement on the River May incensed the Spanish king as a foreign settlement within his dominions and he determined to get rid of it. France and Spain at that time were not at war. Religion furnished a good pretext and a safety-valve for the Spanish king to act and still keep official peace with France. A royal decree was granted Pedro Menendez to fit out, mostly at his own initial expense, an expedition designed to destroy the French colony or drive the Frenchmen from the shores of Florida. Such an expedition could not have been placed in better hands for its success, as Menendez had shown before that he was fully capable of performing the acts with which he was charged-the brutality that the spirit of the age in which he lived characterized as the highest order of heroism and religious duty? It was a peculiar coincidence that Menendez arrived in sight of the Florida coast on the same day that Ribault's fleet dropped anchor at the mouth of the River May, and the same day, too, that Laudonniere was hoisting sail to leave the shores of Florida. Menendez sailed along the coast and anchored off what is now St. Augustine. Here he learned from the Indians of the situation of the French; but to satisfy himself he went with five of his ships up the coast
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To Ocean -' -~~~~~·t a r / b i'iv 0 ' Nf 5 ,.! !I' -'?t '_'"" '..m yEW AN4) OEW !1fro/ .Ir-w. rc^ stir hy . (i n . ' *lJ I rx M%3Lj94t"1 9', : S TRAGE r Or Cortenri For CAROL/NE r q a HflSTORY OF JACKAON VILLE 8C)TRaARBe.& 20, 1565. Map drawn from survey by '. Hurd Kocoker, C. E. .
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i' 'i,I ,, ... ' .. ,, . ,-. -. .-,~ 4~ ~ C -ap, r. LOOKING SHOREWARD FROM SITE OF FORT CAROLINE These two views joined end to end, with the point of St. Johns Bluff on the left and the hamlet of Fulton on the right, give a complete panorama of the present shore line, and the cove where Laudonniere's valley used to be. . 7 S .T JS . . ',,_ .^: -*. ' J O H NB U ,*~~~~~~~~[. · . . . . · . tously 70 feet above tide water, is around the point in the upper view, facing the mouth of the rive that side. .* .' :' -_ I' -4 & _ _. . . ~ ~.;r :., .. Photographed for this histor-. Cour.:s.of C.. H.. Brow The position on the hill whence Menendez swept down upon Fort Caroline is indicated. The face of St. Johns Bluff, rising precipitously 70 feet above tide water, is around the point in the upper view, facing the mouth of the river; there has been no erosion on** that side.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 13 to reconnoiter. These were the ships that chased the French out to sea. He had set about fortifying the place, which he called St. Augustine, and was so engaged when Ribault's fleet appeared off the harbor. He saw the French ships driven southward and speculated as to their return.He called his officers in council and laid before them a plan to attack the French fort by land before the French vessels should retur^f. His officers, as in the case of Rjault, opposed the plan; but Menendez was determined, andwon the 16th of September he marched with a force of 500 men to attack Fort Caroline Indians did not take part in this further than acting as guides. The tempest had not ceased; rain fell in torrents, and it was only after the severest hardships that the Spaniards reached the vicinity of Fort Caroline after sunset of the 19th/ Coming to a pine grove, they camped at a low, wet place one-quarter of a league from the fort; here Menendez assembled his captains in councils Drenched and hungry with their powder wet and useless the Spaniards debated the advisability of making an attack on the French fort. Menendez was practically alone in an unswerving desire to attack the fort, his captains opposing it and suggesting the return to St. Augustine and the abandonment of the expedition. The council lasted until the early morning hours, and the will of Menendez prevailed. * The place where the Spaniards camped that night and the fate of Florida was sealed is easily recognized today. The road skirts it just before the climb to St. Johns Bluff commences. It is a natural depression surrounded by hills, about three-fourths of a mile (approximately one-fourth of a league) southeast of the site of Fort Caroline-the only situation of that kind anywhere in the locality. /Before dawn, September 20th, the Spaniards began to move closer to the fort/They had marched only a few hundred yards when amidst the rain and tempest, and the tangled underbrush, the columns became separated and Menendez called a halt. He interrogated a Frenchman (one of Laudonmere's mutineers) whom he had brought with him. The Frenchman told him that "right over there, down below, three arquebus shots away, was the fort, one side of which was washed by the waters of the river." Nothing could be clearer than this description recorded by Meras, which con-
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14 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA firms all of the other eye-witness descriptions that the fort was at the water's edge. Fort Caroline Captured At dawn the Spaniards were on the high ground overlooking Fort Caroline. The break of day revealed no activity of any sort; Fort Caroline was sleeping, 240 people, less than thirty of whom knew the use of arms. Women and children, the sick and the weak, artisans and servantsthese were the people that remained with Laudonniere when Ribault's fleet departed. The damage done the fort in anticipation of its abandonment had not been fully repaired. The Spaniards rushed down the slope into the fort and committed an indiscriminate slaughter. Some of the French were slain in their beds; others half awake and bewildered met the same fate upon reaching the courtyard. Women as they knelt in supplication and prayer, and little children were put to death. In the confusion a few Frenchmen escaped and among these was Laudonniere. The deed was finished in less than an hour and not a Spaniard had been killed and only one slightly wounded. Menendez, it seems, was not at the fort when the carnage commenced, having remained on top of the hill; but hearing the commotion at the fort he ran down to it and observing that his soldiers gave no quarter he ordered them in a loud voice to kill or wound no woman, or boy under 15 years of age, by which order 70 persons were saved. * About a month after the capture of Fort Caroline, Menendez reported to the King that he still held these captives and that it caused him deep sorrow to see them among his people. Their ultimate fate is unknown. Laudonniere, Le Moyne (an artist), and Challeaux, with 23 others, after suffering untold hardships in the marshes as they tried to reach the mouth of the river, were finally rescued by two small vessels belonging to the French, the Pearl and the Grayhourdl. In these they hastily set sail for France. The Pearl arrived in France, but the Grayhound with Laudonniere aboard reached port at a place in Wales. Thence Laudonniere went to France and reported fully regarding the destruction of Fort Caroline, but the news was received with indifference at the French court.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 15 "Not as Frenchmen, But as Lutherans." * The familiar statement that Menendez hanged a number of Frenchmen and placarded them with a sign signifying that he hanged them not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans, is omitted here as history. So far as known no eye-witness recorded the incident of the placard. The account first appeared in print in 1566 and apparently originated in France as propaganda to arouse the feelings of Protestants in connection with an effort to raise funds for the support of the widows and orphans of Huguenots murdered by Menendez in Florida. That some of the Huguenots were hanged is true, for Menendez mentions the fact in his report to the king,t and along with them two Englishmen that Hawkins had left at Fort Caroline to assist Laudonniere; but he does not mention the placard nor does Meras who recorded the details of the affair with a candor that would certainly have included this incident had it occurred. Fate of Ribault Ribault's fleet was buffeted by the tempest and then wrecked along the coast above Canaveral. Practically all of the Frenchmen reached the shore in safety, where they seem to have gotten together in three separate parties. The two farthest north attempted to reach Fort Caroline by marching overland; but that farthest down the coast decided to fortify and await developments. Three days after the capture of Fort Caroline, Menendez, leaving a garrison of 300 men there, returned to St. Augustine with the balance of his force. Soon after his arrival the Indians came in with reports of the wrecks below. He knew that they were the French and he set out to finish the job begun at Fort Caroline. A party of the French had marched to Matanzas Inlet, where their progress was stopped. Menendez appeared on the opposite side. A parley ensued and the French surrendered, understanding that their lives would be spared. On the pretext that he had but few soldiers with him and these might easily be overpowered, Menendez required the French to cross the shallow body of water in a small boat in parties of ten. As each came over it was marched back into the palmetto scrub out of sight. There, September 29, 1565, the shipwrecked and defenseless Frenchmen were tied totMenendez to the King: "Unwritten History of Old St. Augustine," Brooks and Averette. 1
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16 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA gether in pairs with their hands behind their backs and fiendishly put to death with axe, halberd or sword. After it was over Menendez returned to St. Augustine. On October 12th, Menendez was at the same spot on the same mission, as reports had reached him through the Indians that another party of Frenchmen was there. Ribault was with this party. Precisely the same procedure as in the former instance was carried out. Ribault was among the last to come over; he was struck in the back with a dagger and fell to the ground, where two or three blows ended his life. Meras, brother-in-law of Menendez, was an eye-witness and he recorded the details of this horrible butchery; there is evidence that he, personally, delivered the dagger thrust into the back of Ribault. Menendez in time reached the last party down the coast. Upon his approach some of these Frenchmen fled to the Indians and their ultimate fate is not clear. Of those that surrendered, a few were taken to St. Augustine as slaves. Huguenot Ring The following letter from Mrs. W. H. Adams, of Atlantic Beach, Fla., gives the circumstances of the recovery of an extremely valuable relic connected with Fort Caroline, found in an Indian mound near Pablo Beach a few years ago by Elbridge Gerry Adams: Atlantic Beach, Fla., December 12, 1924. Mr. T. Frederick Davis, Jacksonville, Fla. My dear Mr. Davis: In reply to your note regarding the old ring in my possession, the circumstances connected with finding the ring were these: My son, Gerry, found the ring while digging in an Indian mound near Pablo Beach about 1911. He, in company with several other boys, was digging for pottery and such things. They had been digging in a large mound, when Gerry found a small mound nearby and began digging into one side of it. It was here that he found the old gold ring. I kept the ring, but did not pay much attention to it until the Ribault monument was unveiled by the D. A. R. near Mayport last spring, when I recognized the similarity of the markings on the monument shield to those on the ring. I would be glad to show you the ring should you care to see it. Very sincerely, Juliette Holt Adams.
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Ilistory of Jacksonville, By T. Frederick Davis. HUGUENOT RING *(uea enlarged from an original neamtie (really enlarged from an original negative.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 17 The ring is a band of about 10-kt. gold of uniform thickness throughout. Measured by the modern jewelers' scale the size is 6 1 /2, which is the size for a medium finger; the weight is 1 dwt. The emblems are apparently hand-carved. The single fleurs-de-lis are simply cut into the band, while the figures in the medallions stand out upon a battered sunken field within the oval. The accompanying illustration shows the emblems on the ring, which appear uniformly all the way around the band. There is no inscription inside the band. * The certain authenticity of this find makes it at once a most interesting subject, and being a ring the imagination naturally drifts into all kinds of romance about it. There is of course no record of how the Indian gained possession of the ring. It may have been given to him as a present. Maybe it was taken from the finger of a Frenchman slain at Fort Caroline, or from that of one of Ribault's men as he lay upon the blood-soaked sands of Matanzas. But that it originally belonged to a Huguenot of Fort Caroline there is scarcely a doubt, for the fleur-de-lis, emblem of France when the Huguenots came to Florida indelibly connects it with the time when the Lily of France was banished from Florida by the Lion of Spain in their struggle for supremacy.$ San Mateo Fort and River The capture of Fort Caroline having been achieved at the time of the festival of Saint Matthew, Menendez renamed the fort San Mateo and the river Rio de San Mateo. The contingency, fire, that Laudonniere had so carefully guarded against happened to the Spaniards eight days after they had captured the fort. Through the carelessness of a soldier all of the houses and the wooden part of the fort were burned. The fort was rebuilt on the same site. Menendez afterward built two small forts or observation posts on opposite sides of the river below the great fort, as San Mateo was called. There is evidence that Menendez soon attempted to force the removal of Chief Saturioua to the north side of the river on account of which it is not surprising that he incurred the enmity of the neighboring Indian tribes. About this time a missionary, Don Martinez, and three attendants were murdered by the Indians when they landed on Fort George Island. tThe Huguenot flag bore three golden fleurs-de-lis, frequently referred to as the Lilies of France. 'he Spanish flag of the period was quartered. showing in gold the Castle of Castile and in red the Lion of Leon.
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18 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Menendez led a detachment of 70 men against this chief, but without success. The soldiers could not now venture far beyond the protection of the forts without being harassed by the Indians and within a year fifty or more, including a number of officers, were killed. The same spirit of mutiny that took hold of the French arose among the Spanish garrisons. On one occasion all but twenty of those in the forts on the San Mateo determined to leave and were aboard a vessel ready to sail when Menendez arrived from St. Augustine. He induced thirty of them to remain, put them on a boat and ordered them to St. Augustine; but on the way they were attacked by the Indians and most of them killed. The mutineers sailed and were wrecked on the lower Florida coast where they fell into the hands of the Indians of that section. At the end of 18 months conditions in Florida were growing from bad to worse; supplies and recruits were slow in coming from the West Indies and the dissension of the colonists was growing. Menendez therefore decided to go to Spain and make a personal report in the interest of the Florida colony. He sailed in the spring of 1567, and remained in Spain a year. During his absence there occurred at the mouth of the River San Mateo (St. Johns) the most spectacular incident of them all. Retribution of Dominic de Gourgues The court of France, anti-Huguenot in sentiment, ignored the popular clamor for retribution for the outrages perpetrated against Frenchmen in Florida. Observing that the slaughter of his countrymen would likely go unavenged and believing that the honor of France demanded a retributive measure, Dominic de Gourgues, a soldier of fortune, took upon himself the responsibility of a private enterprise against the Spaniards in Florida. Selling his own estate and borrowing from his friends, De Gourgues managed to finance the building of three vessels especially equipped for the enterprise. His fighting force comprised about 100 soldiers armed with arquebusses and 80 mariners with cross-bows and pikes; there were also a number of persons unskilled in arms, but seeking adventure.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 19 De Gourgues left France August 22, 1567, sailed to Africa, thence to the West Indies, and reached the Rivei May (St. Johns) at Eastertide, 1568. In passing by the mouth of the river he received the salute of the Spanish posts and returned it to keep his identity secret. He came to anchor in the St. Marys River, called the Somme by the French. The Indians soon gathered and an alliance was quickly made with them for an attack upon the Spanish forts. Several days were required to perfect the plans. A youth, Pierre Debre, who had escaped from Fort Caroline and was afterward found and kindly treated by the Indians, was brought in and his services as interpreter were invaluable. On the Saturday morning following Easter, De Gourgues with his whole force, except 20 left to guard the vessels in the St. Marys River, and a great number of Indians were concentrated in the woods behind the fort on the north side of the river. * Circumstances point almost without the slightest doubt to Pilot Town as the location of this fort. The attack was made in the forenoon. Captain Cazenove with a company was ordered to set fire to the gate, while the main forces attacked from the rear. A guard happened to mount a platform just at this moment, noticed the French and sounded the alarm. He fired a culverin twice and was loading it for a third shot when he was killed by an Indian. By this time the French and the Indians were inside the fort. Not a Spaniard escaped; of the 60 in the fort, 45 were killed, and 15 captured and reserved for another fate. The garrison in the fort across the river, seeing the commotion, opened a cannonade, which the French replied to by turning the guns of the captured fort to bear upon the other. Haste was necessary to intercept the garrison on the south side of the river before it should reach the great fort San Mateo (at St. Johns Bluff). Captain De Gourgues with 80 soldiers entered a boat that had come around into the river by prearranged plan and crossed over to the south side below the second fort. The Indians swam across in great numbers, holding their bows and arrows above their heads with one hand and swimming with the other. The garrison fled, but not in time to escape, for when they got to the woods they found themselves cut off and partly surrounded. All were slain except 15 reserved as before.
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20 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA * The second fort was on the point where the river turns at Mayport. The Spaniards evidently held back for a time before leaving the fort, which gave De Gourgues time to cross the river and station himself in the woods around the property known as "Wonderwood." The French removed the articles of value from this fort and sent them across the river. Then they crossed over themselves, with their captives and their Indian allies. De Gourgues wished to obtain more accurate information about the great fort before attacking it. He learned from one of the prisoners that it contained about 250 men, well armed and supplied, and this information was substantiated by a spy sent from the great fort, who had been captured by the Indians and brought in. De Gourgues decided to make the attack at once, although it could not be made as a surprise, for the Spaniards had already gotten wind of the attacks on the small forts. In the night he sent the Indians to conceal themselves in the woods behind the great fort and await the signal for attack. Early the next morning he crossed the river with all of his force, except a few left to guard the prisoners, and finally attained the eminence (St. Johns Bluff) overlooking the fort-the same position from which Menendez on that fatal morning two and a half years before observed Fort Caroline. De Gourgues saw a reconnoitering party of 60 Spaniards leave the fort and march toward his position, whereupon he sent Captain Cazenove around to come up in their rear and cut off their retreat. This maneuver was carried out unobserved by the Spaniards, who continued toward De Gourgues' position on the hill. When they were close, De Gourgues advanced with his whole force. The Spaniards broke and fled, but Cazenove had cut off their retreat and all were slain without quarter. The balance of the garrison in the fort got a glimpse of what was taking place in the woods on the slope of St. Johns Bluff and in their consternation the number of the French was greatly magnified. Becoming demoralized they sought escape through the woods behind the fort; here they ran into the Indians, who attacked them with the greatest fury. The French soon joined the Indians in the work of extermination. Only a few Spaniards escaped; most of them were slain
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 21 on the spot, but some were captured and held for a specific purpose. De Gourgues marched his prisoners to a suitable spot, where he lectured them, reciting the details of the slaughter of his countrymen by Menendez. Then they were hanged from nearby trees. On a tablet of firwood he wrote with a searing iron, "I do not this as unto Spaniards nor Mariners, but as unto Thieves, Traitors, and Murderers," and placed the placard beneath the victims as a message to the Spaniards that he knew would come from St. Augustine after his departure. * Menendez was in Spain at this time. Had he been in Florida it is possible that he might have been on a visit to San Mateo and fallen into the hands of the Frenchman, in which event the history of that Spaniard's life without a doubt would have closed right there. The Indians would have found a great deal of pleasure in it too, for, as Bancroft says, they unquestionably enjoyed seeing their enemies butcher each other. The necessity of destroying the fort was now explained to the Indians and they set about the work with such zeal that San Mateo was razed in one day. The French removed the cannon and small arms to two boats that lay off the fort, but the ammunition was lost as the result of an accident. An Indian while boiling his fish set fire to a train of powder laid by the Spaniards, by which the ammunition house was blown up; from this other houses caught fire on their thatched roofs and were quickly destroyed. With the demolition of the other forts and the hanging of the prisoners held at the first fort, De Gourgues considered his object accomplished. He sent the ordnance taken from the forts around by boat and set out with his diminutive army over the route by which he came. He found his vessels on the St. Marys in order and on May 3d hoisted sail and headed for home, where he arrived at Rochelle on the 6th of June, 1568. News of the disaster in Florida reached Spain while De Gourgues was still at Rochelle receiving the congratulations of his admirers and friends. A Spanish squadron was sent to capture him there, but he moved to another port before its arrival. A price was put upon his head. The Spanish king made representations to the French court and De Gourgues
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22 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA was forced to seek safety in concealment; he remained in retirement ten or twelve years, idolized by a large portion of the French people. The account of this expedition to Florida given in Champlain's "Voyages" closes in these terms: A generous enterprise, undertaken by a gentleman, and executed at his own cost, for honor's sake alone, without any other expectation; and one which resulted in obtaining for him a glory far more valuable than all the treasures of the world. Dominic de Gourgues was easily the most spectacular figure in Florida's early history. *De Gourgues' life was filled with wild adventure staged in the remote parts of the world as known in his time. He was in the armies of different princes for many years. He was in command of a company that was cut to pieces near Sienna and was there captured by the Spaniards. They put him in a galley as a galley slave, and while serving in this capacity he was captured by the Turks and so used by them on the Mediterranean. The galley in which he was serving was eventually restored to the French and De Gourgues returned to France. He then made a voyage to Africa, Brazil, and the South Seas, from which it is said he returned with considerable wealth. Upon his return from this voyage he learned of the massacre of the Huguenots in Florida. There had been published in France a tract entitled "Supplication of the Widows and Children of those Massacred in Florida", calculated to rouse feeling to a high pitch. As a patriot De Gourgues felt the honor of his country was at stake, and as a man his fiery nature burned for an opportunity for revenge for the ignoble treatment of himself by the Spaniards. These united motives urged him to the chivalrous undertaking against the Spaniards in Florida-un-Christian it may have been, but intensely dramatic. Religion, however, played no part in it, for De Gourgues himself was a Catholic. He emerged from the retirement following the Florida enterprise to accept appointment as commander of the high seas fleet; on his way to assume command he contracted a sickness from which he never recovered. He died in 1582. The history of a city includes the record of the locality before the city was founded and these stirring scenes at the mouth of the St. Johns River therefore are properly included as the first chapter of Jacksonville's history.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 23 Why Are We Sleeping? * From Maine to California in the schools of every city and hamlet of the nation where American history is taught, children recite in a word or two the events that occurred in the vicinity of St. Johns Bluff recorded in this chapter. They know that perhaps the destiny of a continent was settled somewhere in Florida, but they do not know that it was anywhere near Jacksonville, nor that here the first white women and children landed in the territory now the United States in the first really substantial attempt at permanent colonization, and that here according to a record inference the first white child was born-the first Protestant white child born in North America. They do not know that the first battle in North America between white races was fought at Fort Caroline. But they do know all about Jamestown and Plymouth rock and a good deal about the missions of California. Thousands of people visit those places every year for no other reason in the world than for their historic interest. The Daughters of the American Revolution, on May 1, 1924, unveiled near Mayport an enlarged copy of the marker placed by Ribault at the mouth of the river in 1562, and which was undoubtedly destroyed by the Spaniards upon the capture of Fort Caroline in 1565. This is the only effort that has been made to commemorate any of the events of history along the St. Johns River between Jacksonville and the sea. Bibliography, Chapter I Ribault and Laudonniere both described their first voyage to Florida. Their accounts have been preserved in English translations, the best of which perhaps is Jared Sparks's "Life of Ribault" (1848). Laudonniere, LeMoyne (an artist), and Challeaux, all of whom escaped from Fort Caroline when it was captured by the Spaniards, wrote of that affair. Meras, brotherin-law of Menendez. likewise an eye-witness, recorded the massacre of the Huguenots in minute detail: the full translation of his memorial will be found in Jeannette T. Connor's work, "Menendez de Aviles" (1923). De Gourgues left a manuscript description of his voyage to Florida. The American historian Bancroft had an authentic copy of it. English translations from source material were made by Hakluyt and published during the closing years of the 16th century. Ternasx-Compans pre;erved then for the French in the same way, 1841. The Virsinia Historical Society in its "Early Voyages to America" (1848) condenses much of this matter. Le Moyne's forty-odd drawings visualize a great deal around Fort Caroline not gained from the written sources. Chapter I of this history is based on these sources, with observations by the author (indicated), who made a careful personal survey of the topographical features in relation to the record accounts. The illustrations of this chapter were prepared especially for this history.
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24 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER II THE COW FORD Menendez left Spain on his return voyage to Florida about the time De Gourgues sailed out of the St. Marys and headed for home; they passed somewhere on the broad Atlantic, one sailing westward and the other eastward. It is not difficult to imagine the fury that shook the frame of Menendez when he arrived at St. Augustine and learned what had taken place at the mouth of the San Mateo during his absence. Nevertheless, he set to work rebuilding the large fort and again garrisoned it, but never afterward with as many men as were there at the time of the Frenchman's attack. The small forts destroyed by De Gourgues do not seem to have been rebuilt, though maps of a later day show other posts along the river. Following the tragic scenes when French and Spanish fought for the possession of Florida, a long period elapsed before events having a direct bearing on this immediate vicinity again shaped themselves to become recorded history. It was a sort of inactive interim in local history, between the long ago and the beginning of development attending the actual English occupation in 1764. However, during this period there were occasional forays between St. Augustine and the English settlements to the north in which English, Spanish and Indians took part. War parties now and then camped for awhile on the bluff that sloped down to the river at the foot of our present Liberty and Washington Streets. In Spanish times this bluff was described as imposing and timbered with live-oak, palm (palmetto), and wild orange. At the foot of Liberty Street there was a rather bold spring of clear, good water, (an outcropping, perhaps, of the stream that is known at the present day to underlie the surface in that section of the city). Back from the river a short distance stood a small Indian village." * One of the earliest Spanish maps shows an Indian village here called Ossachite. This liquid Indian name, Os-sachi-te is the earliest record of a name applying to the locality of Jacksonville. It was a Timuqua village of probably not more than half a dozen houses thatched in the Timuqua style, as shown by Le Moyne's drawings.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 25 Indian Fords and Trails The Indians had fording places at different points along the river. It is not known what they originally called these fords, but with the introduction of cattle into the country the name "Wacca Pilatka" was applied, signifying a ford orplacewherethe cows crossed over. The first English name for the vicinity of Jacksonville was "Cow Ford," and it was often referred to by that name even long after Jacksonville was founded. One of the most popular fords along the St. Johns was at this point-from the foot of our present Liberty Street to a point on the south side of the river directly opposite. A Timuqua trail led up from the lower east coast through the New Smyrna district, on to St. Augustine and thence to the Cow Ford (South Jacksonville and Jacksonville). On this side of the river it took a northwesterly course through a black-jack ridge where Hemming Park is now and there branched, one trail leading northwesterly and the other on toward the west.b The westerly trail crossed the sand hills (for a long time called Trail Ridge) that divide the waters of Black Creek from those of the St. Marys River; leading around the head branches of the San-ta-fee; joined the old De Soto trail near where the railroad crosses the Olustee, which led to the Suwanee; near the upper mineral springs, and westward to Alapaha, Aucilla, Micasuki, and Tallahassee, towns of the Apalachees. The Jacksonville-Lake City highway follows closely the route of this trail.h The northwesterly branch led to the St. Marys River to a point opposite where Colerain, Ga., afterward stood.b In the course of time these Indian trails grew into a beaten track through the forest. The pack-ponies of the traders followed them; then came the ox-carts of a later day, following the course of least resistance. Thus a kind of highway evolved as a natural consequence of the matchless judgment of the Indian in picking the easiest route. Great Britain Acquires Florida The English captured Havana from Spain in 1762. By the treaty in 1763 England acquired Florida in exchange for Havana. The English took actual possession in 1764, when practically the entire Spanish population departed.
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26 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA English Land Grants About 1765, the Marquis of Hastings secured a British grant on the north side of the St. Johns comprising 20,000 acres along the river from Trout Creek to the mouth of Maxtons (McGirts) Creek, including the present site of Jacksonville. There is no record of a settlement on this land during the English occupation. The Marquis of Waterford secured a grant, also of 20,000 acres, on the opposite side of the river between Pottsburg Creek and Julington Creek, including the site of South Jacksonville.a This tract was developed in the vicinity of the ford. Bartram visited the Cow Ford in 1774, and he noted in his book that a ferry for crossing the river was in operation (for travelers) and near it was an indigo plantation from which he procured a sailboat for a trip up the river. The St. Johns country was highly advertised in England for a time, stress being placed on the profitable cultivation of the indigo plant here. There were several English plantations along the river above the Cow Ford. What we now call Ortega was settled by Abraham Jones under an English patent of January 12, 1770, granting him 2,000 acres of land "in our province of East Florida, situation the neck or point of land between St. Johns River and Maxtons Creek, known by the name of Maxtons Creek Island. Bounded South and Southeast by vacant lands; West and Northwest by Maxtons Creek, and Eastwardly by St. Johns River." Jones built his house half a mile above where Maxtons Creek emptied into the river. About the year 1780, Colonel Daniel McGirts was living on this tract, which was then called McGirts Place and Maxtons Creek was called McGirts Creek.c Kings Road The English had not been long in Florida when they set to work making a highway out of the old trail leading to the St. Marys River. They started at New Smyrna; thence to St. Augustine; to the Cow Ford; to the St. Marys at Colerain, and on into Georgia. All land travel between the northern Colonies and East Florida came down over this route and consequently through the sites of Jacksonville and South Jacksonville. Kings Road today follows the original route.
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OfTB OiP KINGS ROAD THROUGH JACKSONVILLE .... ~ ' II! I Z Brat E E -L D. .Har.1 _Aol C/ I I7h h _ .B C [ =i_ ____ S C_ A lipa thor. ass~ HeL m/arj st^:^^ ,ZZZ , .pOw-tO' _ , JOY/1^--Y---CKSO1h^ 11-I-----,F---1 J' _. r ' '--'"_'--7'r -.. _"-----'-'--''-...-----".'"'L _____^H D _ -_i-n-n 0lentii; X. D. Hart, Dr. A. S. Baldwin, and other early settlers left minute descriptions of the route of the Khins Road through Jacksonville.
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28 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The Spaniards Return Interest in Florida by England waned when the tide turned against her in the war of the Colonies for independence, in which Florida did not join. In 1783, England ceded Florida back to Spain, in a ridiculous exchange for several unimportant islands. The Spaniards returned to Florida in 1784, and practically all of the English left. The British land grants reverted to the Spanish crown, but the agreement included a provision that the British settlers should be remunerated for their lands. The English estates on the St. Johns were abandoned and remained vacant for some years, falling into rapid decay.d McIntosh and the Spaniards About the year 1790, John H. McIntosh, of Georgia, arrived in the vicinity of the Cow Ford. Here he was appointed to some office by the Spanish governor, but he does not seem to have obtained an actual grant of land. McIntosh apparently was a turbulent man of restless and reckless disposition and it is not surprising that he and the Spaniards eventually clashed. The result was that he was arrested for intrigue in 1794 and sent to Havana, where he was confined for a year in Morro Castle. After his release from prison, he returned to Georgia, gathered together a band of adventurers, and swept down upon the Spanish post (San Nicholas) at the Cow Ford. This he destroyed, together with the "Boats of the Royal Domain" on the river. McIntosh and the Spaniards seem to have patched up their differences, however, for some years later he was again living in the vicinity of the Cow Ford engaged in the exportation of lumber on a large scale and incidentally living like a lord. Prior to 1800, there were bona-fide settlers in the vicinity of the Cow Ford, regardless of the fact that this locality had by that time become the stamping ground of many undesirables-criminals from the States, slave catchers, ruffians, and banditti of varied kind. This was a condition that gave the Spanish governors a world of trouble and there were frequent exchanges of charges and counter-charges by Spaniards and Georgians which resulted in a sentiment that awaited only a pretext for an armed invasion of Florida. It came in 1812.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 29 Patriot Revolution Prior to the declaration of war between the United States and Great Britain in 1812, the United States Congress in secret sessions as early as January, 1811, considered seriously the question of seizing Florida although it was a possession of Spain, on the pretext that in the event of war the English might use it as a base of operations. There followed a chain of correspondence between the United States Secretary of State and the Governor of Georgia on the subject and instructions were finally issued by the government, with the consent of the President (Madison), for emissaries to proceed to Florida and try to procure its cession to the United States by peaceable means if possible, and failing in this they were to use their own judgment in the matter./ The outcome was an armed invasion of East Florida by Georgians "unofficially" supported by United States regulars, accompanied by an uprising of Americans living in northern Florida. This armed attack upon the Spaniards is usually referred to in history as the "Patriot Revolution" in Florida. General Matthews, of Georgia, to whom this delicate task of taking Florida over had been entrusted, found no difficulty in enlisting volunteers for an invasion of Florida. The first attack was upon Fernandina, which they captured without bloodshed. Eight armed United States sloops co-operated, and on the following day United States forces took possession of Fernandina and raised the American flag over the fort. This was in March, 1812, and war with Great Britain was not declared until the following June. Without the preliminaries usual to the establishment of governments, the Patriots at once set to work organizing a government of their own for Northern Florida, elected John H. McIntosh (the same McIntosh of Cow Ford fame) director-general, appointed judges and established a legislature It proved to be a paper government and never functioned. The next move of the Patriots was against St. Augustine, the Spanish capital of East Florida. They marched 300 strong to a point near the town and encamped. Here they were joined by a detachment of United States regulars. The Spaniards mounted some cannon on a schooner and shelled the camp, forcing the Americans to retreat. The Patriots retreated to the Cow Ford and established their camp. The United States troops remained in the vicinity of St. Augusi.
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30 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA tine until a detachment was attacked near twelve-mile. swamp by a body of negroes sent out from St. Augustine and several killed, when they too retreated, first to a blockhouse near where Bayard is now and then to the St. Johns.f An outstanding feature of the Patriot invasion was a campaign against the Indians of central Florida by Colonel Daniel Newnan and a battalion of Georgia volunteers. The experience of this battalion was remarkably similar to that of Major Dade's command 23 years later, except that Major Dadc's perished and Colonel Newnan's escaped. Considerable history is given in Colonel Newnan's official report of this expedition and for that reason is here published in full.f The report was addressed to the governor of Georgia. The parts in parentheses are explanatory insertions by the author: New-Hope, St. Johns, Oct. 19,1812. Dear Sir; I have now the honor of transmitting to your excellency an account of the several engagements which have taken place between the Lotchaway and Alligator Indians, and the detachment of Georgia volunteers under my command. As the object of this expedition, and the views of the persons engaged in it, have been misconstrued, and misstatements, relative to its protraction circulated, I ask the indulgence of your excellency to detail every transaction from its commencement to its termination. I arrived upon (the) St. Johns, in obedience to your orders, about the 15th of August (1812) with the whole of my detachment, consisting, including officers, of about 250 men, and with few on the sick report. I immediately waited on Col. Smith (U. S. A.) before St. Augustine, and received orders dated the 21st of August, to proceed immediately against the hostile Indians within the province of East Florida, and destroy their towns, provisions and settlements. I then returned to the detachment upon the St. Johns, and made every preparation to comply with my orders, by dispatching parties to procure horses from the few inhabitants that had not fled from the province, in preparing packs and provisions, and taking every step which I deemed necessary to insure success to the enterprise. In consequence of the sickness of myself and nearly one-half of the detachment, the period of our marching was delayed until the 24th of September (1812); and when just upon the eve of departing, an express arrived from Col. Smith informing me that his provision wagons and the escort was attacked by a body of Negroes and Indians, and ordering me to join him immediately with 90 men, and bring all the horses and carriages (any wheeled vehicle). I could command, for the removal of his baggage, field-pieces, and sick, he having only 70 men fit for duty. I marched to the relief of the colonel with 130 men and 25 horses, and assisted him in removing to the block-house upon Davis's creek (near
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 31 Bayard). This service delayed for a few days our expedition to the (Indian) nation; and when the detachment again assembled upon thb St. Johns, and were about to commence to march, the men had but six or seven days to serve. About this time I received a letter from Col. Smith, advising me to propose to the detachment an extension of their service for 15 or 20 days longer, as the time for which they were engaged was deemed insufficient to accomplish any object of the expedition. This measure I had contemplated, and its sanction by the colonel met with my most hearty approbation; for I was unwilling to proceed to the enemy's country with a single man, who would declare that, in any event, he would not serve a day longer than the time for which he had originally volunteered. I accordingly assembled the detachment, and after stating the necessity of a tender of further service, proposed that the men should volunteer for three weeks longer; when 84 men, including officers, stepped out and were enrolled, which, with the addition of 23 volunteer militia sent to my aid by Col. Smith, and 9 patriots under the command of Capt. Cone, made my whole force amount to 117. With this small body, provided with four days' provisions and 12 horses, I was determined to proceed to the (Indian) nation and give those merciless savages at least one battle; and I was emboldened in this determination by the strong expectation of being succored by a body of cavalry from St. Mary's, and which it has since appeared did assemble at Colerain (Ga.), but proceeded no farther. On the evening of the 24th of September (1812) we left the St. Johns, marching in Indian file, Capt. Humphrey's company of riflemen in front, Capt. Fort's company, under the command of Lieut. Fannin, in the center, and Capt. Coleman's company, with Cone's detachment, under the command of Lieut. Broadnax, in the rear. A small party marched in front of the main body, and another in the rear, the openness of the country, except in particular places, rendered it unnecessary to employ men upon the right and left. Our encampment at nights, there being three companies, was in the form of a triangle, with the baggage in the center, the men with their clothes on, lying with their feet pointing outwards, and their firelocks in their arms. In case of attack, the officers were instructed to bring up their companies upon the right and left of the company fronting the enemy, and attend to the Indian mode of fighting until ordered to charge. In case of meeting the enemy upon our march, Humphrey's company was instructed to file off to the right, Fort's company to advance and form to the front in single rank, and Coleman's company to file off to the left; the whole then to advance in the form of a crescent, and endeavor to encircle the enemy. On the morning of the fourth day of our march, when within six or seven miles of the Lotchaway towns (near Newnan's Lake, Alachua County), our advance party discovered a party of Indians marching along the path meeting us, and at the same moment they appeared to have discovered us. As soon as I was informed of it, I lost no time In
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32 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA giving the necessary directions for the companies to advance, and obey the instructions which had been previously given to them, and which appeared exactly suited to the situation in which we found the enemy. As soon as Fort's company, at the head of which I had placed myself, had advanced to the proper ground, I discovered the Indians falling back, and making every preparation for battle, by unslinging their packs, trimming their rifles, and each man taking his place. We continued to advance, taking advantage of the trees in our progress, until we were within 130 yards of the Indians, when many of them fired, and I immediately ordered the charge, which drove them from behind the trees, and caused them to retire with the greatest precipitation; our men all the while firing at them, slew several, and by repeated charges drove them half a mile, when they took shelter in the swamp. It unfortunately happened, I presume through inadvertence, that Humphrey's company in filing to the right took too great a circuit, got a small swamp between them and the enemy, and thereby rendered the victory less decisive than it would have been had the whole charged together, and before the Indians had dispersed themselves and extended their force, which they soon did, nearly half a mile up and down the swamp. The company, however, was of service afterwards in preventing the enemy, after their dispersion, from entering our camp, retaking their baggage and provisions, all of which fell into our hands, or falling upon the wounded, that had been sent to the rear. The action, including the skirmishing upon the flanks, lasted two hours and a half, the Indians frequently attempting to outflank us and get in our rear, but were repulsed by the companies extending to the right and left. We had one man killed and nine wounded, two of which have since died of their wounds. The loss of the enemy must have been considerable. I saw seven fall to the ground with my own eyes, among whom was their king, Payne; two of them fell near the swamp, the rest our men had the curiosity to scalp. The rifle company on the right and Broadnax's on the left, speak of killing several near the swamp, who were borne off by their comrades, it being a principle among the savages to carry off their dead at the risk of their lives. We remained on the battle ground watching the movements of the Indians, who were near the swamp painting themselves, and appeared to be in consultation, all of which indicated an intention to renew the combat. Accordingly a half an hour before sunset, having obtained a considerable reinforcement of Negroes and Indians, from their towns, they commenced the most horrid yells imaginable, imitating the cries and noise of almost every animal of the forest, their chiefs advancing in front in a stooping serpentine manner, and making the most wild and frantic gestures, until they approached within two hundred yards of us, when they halted and commenced firing. Our men were not to be alarmed by their noise and yells, but as instructed, remained perfectly still and steady behind logs and trees until the enemy by this forbearance bad approached somewhat nearer, when a brik and well-
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 33 directed fire from our line soon drove them back to their original ground. I would now have ordered the charge, but being under the necessity," from the extension of the enemy's line, of detaching nearly one-half of my force to protect our camp and wounded, the assailing of which is a great object with Indians, I was left to contend with a force three times as numerous as my own. The action lasted until eight o'clock (in the evening), when the enemy was completely repulsed in every attempt whether made upon our centre or flanks. We had two men killed and one wounded; the enemy carried off several of their men before it was dark-after which all firing, of course random, was at the spot from whence the flash arose. After fighting and fasting the whole day, we had to work throughout the night, and at daylight had a tolerable breastwork of logs and earth, with port holes, on the ground on which the battle was fought. We were reduced to this necessity, for in dispatching Capt. Whitaker about dark to the St. Johns for a reinforcement, six more men took the liberty to accompany him, taking with them our best horses; our pilot and surgeon, who was sick, was among the number. The two days succeeding the battle, we neither saw nor heard anything of the enemy, but on the evening of the third day they commenced firing at our work at a long distance, and renewed it every day for five or six days, but without killing or wounding any of our men. After killing two or three of them through our port holes they seldom came within gunshot. Seven or eight days had now elapsed since our express had left us, hunger was staring us in the face, and we were now reduced to the necessity of eating one of our horses; we had no surgeon to dress the wounded, and apprehensions were entertained that the enemy would receive reinforcements from Augustine or the Makasukie Indians. Expecting relief every hour, I was unwilling to leave our brcastworks while we had a horse to eat, but I understood from some of my officers that a certain captain was determined to leave us with his company, and that many of the men, giving up all hopes of relief, talked of deserting in the night rather than perish, or fall a sacrifice to the merciless Negroes and Indians, whom they were taught to believe would surround us in great numbers in a few days. In this trying situation, when our few remaining horses were shot down by them (the Indians), and the number of our sick daily increasing, 1 reluctantly assented to leave our works that night, and directed the litters to be prepared to carry the wounded. About 9 o'clock we commenced our distressing march, carrying five wounded men in litters and supporting two or three more. We had not proceeded more than eight miles, when the men became perfectly exhausted from hunger and fatigue, and were unable to carry the wounded any farther. About two hours after we left our breastworks, 25 horsemen, with provisions, arrived to our relief, on a different road from the one we had taken, but, from motives best known to themselves, instead of following us, returned to the St. Johns, and we
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34 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA were left to encounter new difficulties, two men that I had dispatched on the path the horsemen came, by some means or other missing them., We again constructed a place of defense, and I dispatched Sergeantmajor Reese with one private to Picolata, to learn what had occasioned the delay of our expected supplies, and told him I should remain where I was until I could hear from him, and endeavored to procure cattle, as we discovered signs of their being near us. The evil genius of Captain again prevailed, and I have since learned from Captain Cone, that this person instigated not only him, but many of the privates to urge a departure from our works even in the day time, when I was convinced that the Indians knowing our weak situation would endeavor to ambuscade. This gentleman, if innocent, will have an opportunity of proving himself so before a court-martial. With a burning fever on me and scarcely able to walk, the march was ordered about three o'clock in the afternoon. I had directed the adjutant, Captain Hardin, to march in front, to avoid all places where there could be an ambuscade, and the litters should be distributed among the different companies. Being extremely weak, I marched in the rear with Captain , who carried my firelock, Lieut. i annin, and about fifteen or twenty privates. We had scarcely marched five miles before the front of the detachment discovered the heads of several Indians on both sides of the path, from among several pine trees that were laid prostrate by the hurricane; the same instant, the enemy fired upon our advanced party, and shot down four of them, one, a Spaniard, died on the spot, and two survived a few days; my negro boy was one of them. 'Ihe moment I heard the firing I ordered the detachment to charge, and the Indians were completely defeated in fifteen minutes, many of them dropping their guns, and the whole running off without ever attempting to rally. Eour were left dead on the field, and I am convinced from the constant fire we kept up, that many more must have been slain, but were hid from our view by the thick and high palmetto bushes. We lay on the battle ground all night, and started next day at 10 o'clock, marched five miles and again threw up breastworks between two ponds, living upon gophers, alligators and palmetto stocks, until Sergeant-major Reese arrived with provisions and 14 horses, when we were enabled to proceed to the St. Johns with all our sick and wounded, where a gun-boat (schooner) by the direction of Colonel Smith was in waiting for us, which conveyed us to his camp, where we met with every attention that humanity or benevolence could bestow. I cannot refrain from expressing the high sense I have of the care and anxiety which Colonel Smith has manifested for the detachment under my command, and his promptitude in affording every aid in his power, when apprised of our situation. My pen can scarcely do justice to the merits of the brave officers and men under my command, their fortitude under all their privations and distresses never forsaking them. Captain Hamilton, who volunteered as a private, his company having left him at the expiration of their time; Lieutenant Fannin,
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 35 Ensign Hamilton, and Adjutant Hardin distinguished themselves in a particular manner, being always among the first to charge, and first in pursuit; Sergeants Holt and Attaway likewise acted very bravely, and f olk's company in general, being always near me, and under my immediate view, advanced to the charge with the steadiness of veterans. Lieutenant Broadnax showed a great deal of courage and presence of mind, and Ensign Mann who was wounded in the first action fought well. Captain Cone who was wounded in the head early in the action behaved well and Lieutenant Williams did himself great honor in every action, but particularly in the bold and manly stand he made in the night engagement. Sergeant Hawkins and Corporal Neil of Coleman's company acted like soldiers, and Sergeant-major Reese's activity was only surpassed by his courage; he was everywhere and always brave. Captain Humphrey's company acted bravely, particularly Lieutenant Reed, Sergeant fields, Sergeant Cowan, Sergeant Denmark and many of the privates. I can only speak of Captain Humphrey from the report of some of his men, who say he acted well; it so happening he never met my eye during either of the engagements, while the conduct of every other person that I have mentioned, except one or two, came under my personal observation. The number of Indians in the first engagement, from every circumstance that appeared, must have been trom seventy-five to a hundred; in the second engagement, their number, including Negroes who were their best soldiers, was double ours, and in the third engagement there appeared to be fifty, which was nearly equal our force, after deducting the sick and wounded. From every circumstance, I am induced to believe that the number killed and wounded among the Indians must be at least fifty. I have the honor to be, with great respect, your most obedient servant, DANIEL NEWNAN. His excellency David B. Mitchell. The star of fortune shone over Colonel Newnan's battalion, for its escape was miraculous. There are some interesting inferences in this report besides the fighting: What is meant by "scalping the Indians out of curiosity" is not clear; maybe it was a custom, for in a later private letter Colonel Newnan stated that Zephaniah Kingsley's house on Fort George Island was "handsomely decorated with Indians' scalps."/ The flag of the United States flew by the side of the Patriot flag on Spanish soil for a year. When the U. S. troops were withdrawn in the Spring of 1813, the Patriot bands disintegrated rapidly, but not before they had pillaged and destroyed a great amount of property in this section.
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36 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The Patriot Bannert *The design of the Patriot flag was: Field, white; figure, a soldier in the act of charging bayonet; inscription, "Salus populi lex supreme" (Safety the supreme law of the people). Thus another banner was added to the array of flags signifying actual or attempted possession that have flown in Florida in times past. The country between the St. Johns and the St. Marys Rivers did not enjoy a lengthy peace after the departure of the "Patriots." A peculiar chapter in Florida's varied history was written here when an attempt was made to organize the "Republic of Florida" based on the American system, but under the jurisdiction of the Spaniards-a form of compromise between the Spaniards and the settlers in this section. The republic functioned under this system for a year or two and really bore the imprint of law and order. Trouble again arose, however, when M'Gregor and his so-called "Carthagenians" or "Venezuelan Patriots" took possession of Fernandina and turmoil continued until the negotiations of the United States for the acquisition of Florida were begun. Fort San Nicholas An early Spanish map indicates a block-house or a Spanish post on the south side of the river in the vicinity of the present South Jacksonville. Thenceforth its history is lost, but it was probably the parent of the post that later became known as San Nicholas. There is no record to indicate that the English had a garrisoned post at this point. When the Spaniards returned in 1784, they reestablished the military post under the name San Nicholas. The history of Fort San Nicholas was an exciting one. McIntosh destroyed it in 1796, and the Patriots doubtless did likewise in 1812. The post was temporarily abandoned in 1817 out of fear of an attack by the "Carthagenians", who held Fernandina. During the last years of its existence it was maintained principally for the purpose of preventing smuggling, although the commanders seem not always wideawake in this respect, according to an article written by Rev. tDescribed by G. . F. Clarke in a letter written from Fernandina 19th Mareh. 112. -Fla. Hiast. Society.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 37 J. N. Glenn (a Methodist missionary at St. Augustine in 1823), as follows: "General (John H.) McIntosh told me once that he had two boatloads of cotton that he had raised up the St. Johns River (probably at Ortega) that he wished to pass the Spanish post at Cow Ford without paying the Spanish duties. Accordingly he approached the officer in command on the subject. Just then the boats hove in sight coming down the river. The commander put up his spy-glass and remarked, 'There is too much cotton to let it pass'. The General gave him a doubloon. He put the coin to one eye and the spy-glass to the other and said, 'Too much yet'. The General gave him another doubloon. He then put a doubloon to each eye and said, 'I see no cotton now'."g (Francis S.) Hudnall acquired the land on which the old fort stood, even while a part of it was still in existence. He leveled the timbers for use on his farm.t The fort was enclosed by an excavation 100 feet square. Mr. Hudnall built his house directly on the east side of the moat, and while excavating found a number of Spanish coins. h The St. Johns River The Indian name for the St. Johns River as interpreted by the early Spaniards was "Illaka", meaning unusual, different from any other, moves along with the south wind.' The French interpretation was "Welaka", a chain of lakes. The former seems more in unison with the characteristic reasoning of an Indian. Ribault first saw the river on the afternoon of April 30, 1562, but he did not enter it until the following day, May 1st. From this fact he named it Riviere de Mai-the River May. The destruction of Fort Caroline by Menendez took place within a day of the festival of St. Matthew and in celebration of the "victory" he named both the fort and the river San Mateo. The Spaniards later changed the name of the river to San Juan, and the English retained it as St. Johns. tTh* exact site of Fort San Nicholas was on the property used by Merrill-Steens s a war-time shipbuilding plant, back from the river about 260 yards.
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38 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Bibliography, Chapter II. aHIistorical sketch in Jacksonville City Directory 1870, J. M. Hawks. bHistorical sketch in Jscksonville City Directory 1871, D. G. Ambler. cFrom the records at Tallahassee. dFairbanks' History of Florida. eMemoirs of Florida, Fleming. fNiles' Register, Baltimore, Vol. III, 1812-13. gJacksonville Sun and Press, Aug. 11, 1877. hColumbus Drew in Fla. Times-Union, January, 1890. iFlorida and the South, Brinton, 1869.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 89 CHAPTER III SPANISH LAND GRANTS In the 198 years that Spain governed Florida prior to the English occupation she made no attempt whatever to induce settlement from the outside; but following its re-possession in 1783, the Spaniards inaugurated an entirely different policy in this particular. Under Royal Decree of 1790, it became only necessary for the applicant to set forth his desires in a memorial to the governor asking for lands to the amount permitted according to the number of his family and his slaves, the location desired being named in the memorial. The usual reply of the governor to these applications was: "Let the lands asked for be granted without injury to a third person."" It was done in one of two ways: By Grant, which gave title of absolute property to the petitioner; or by Concession, the terms of which included a provision of some sort, such as requiring the land to be kept under cultivation usually for a period of time designated by Spanish law. The treaty for the transfer of Florida by Spain to the United States was ratified in February, 1819, and the actual change of flags took place in July, 1821; grants of land made during this interval under the Donation Acts of the U. S. Congress were designated Donations. *The acquisition of Florida by the United States was not through direct purchase from Spain. The treaty was drawn around a claim clause of the United States and its citizens against the Spanish government for alleged damages for various reasons. The United States agreed to cancel its claims and assume the payment of those of its citizens to not exceeding $5,000,000, in consideration of which Spain ceded Florida. The interest accumulating upon these claims eventually amounted to $1,489,768. Therefore Florida cost the United States $6,489,768, but Spain did not get a dollar of it. After the formal transfer of Florida in 1821, Congress passed what were known as the "Land-Grant Acts", providing for the appointment of commissioners to investigate and confirm legitimate claims for title under Spanish grants and concessions. These commissioners were usually called the land-grant commissioners and will be referred to by that
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40 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA name hereafter. Those for East Florida sat as a Board at St. Augustine, and the records indicate that their proceedings were painstaking and thorough; their awards are upheld by the courts of this State and are the base titles to property here. Robert Pritchard, 1791. (Jacksonville) Robert Pritchard on January 3, 1791, procured a concession from Governor Queseda of 450 acres of land situated on the north side of the River San Juan opposite the post of San Nicholas. A regular survey was made and Pritchard took possession immediately, erected buildings and planted crops. He died a few years later, but his heirs, through authorized agents, continued the cultivation of the tract. One of these agents was John Joseph Lain, who cultivated and lived on the land afterward granted to Mrs. Purnal Taylor and which is now included in the plat of Jacksonville.a When the "Patriots" arrived in 1812, the Pritchard lands were permanently abandoned. Robert Pritchard was the first white settler on the site of Jacksonville. John McQueen, 1792. (Ortega) A survey was made of "San Juan Nepomuceno" by Pedro Marrot on January 14, 1792, for John McQueen, to whom it had been conceded by the Spanish governor. The survey comprised 3,274 acres lying along both sides of McGirts Creek (including all of Ortega and the west side of McGirts Creek nearly to Big Fishweir Creek). On February 27, 1804, John McQueen received title of absolute property to this tract and in March of the same year (1804) he made a sale to John H. McIntosh, which was duly authorized and recorded. The land-grant commissioners confirmed the title to McIntosh., In an agreement (May 26, 1836) among the heirs of John H. McIntosh, Sr., his daughter, Catherine A. Sadler, was awarded "McGirts Point", which at that time was called "Ostego". From Mrs. Sadler the title next appears in Austin D. Moore and Asa Moore. The executors of the estate of
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 41 Austin D. Moore with Asa Moore transferred the tract (December 9, 1857) to John P. Sanderson. The heirs of John P. Sanderson (February 26, 1902) through a New York trust company transferred it, excepting one or two small parcels, to the Jacksonville Ortega Town Company, a New Jersey corporation headed by Wilkinson Call, for $40,000. The Jacksonville Ortega Town Company (February 20, 1906) transferred these holdings to J. R. Dunn. J. R. Dunn (March 15, 1906) to D. H. McMillan, Trustee; D. H. MeMillan, Trustee, etc. (May 10, 1906) to Ortega Company, a Florida corporation headed by J. N. C. Stockton,c by whom the tract was platted and put on the market as building lots. William Jones, 1793-William Hendricks, 1797. (South Jacksonville) One William Jones, February 14, 1793, obtained a Spanish grant comprising 216 acres situated on the south side of the River San Juan at the Cow Ford. South Jacksonville now occupies this tract. Jones's land was confiscated for rebellion against His Spanish Majesty.a It is not known with certainty what the trouble was, but we may make a pretty safe guess that when McIntosh made his raid on Fort San Nicholas and the Boats of the Royal Domain about 1796, William Jones, living nearby, was involved in that affair, and if so, the Spaniards had a perfect right to confiscate his land. On May 18, 1797, this land was re-granted to William Hendrix (Hendricks) of North Carolina. Isaac Hendricks, son of William Hendricks, came down and occupied it, built houses and cultivated the tract for many years. It was confirmed to Isaac Hendricks by the land-grant commissioners. On February 11, 1823, Isaac Hendricks conveyed the tract to his son, William I. Hendricks, as a "Gift of Love and Affection". William I. Hendricks transferred it to his mother-in-law, Elizabeth (Hudnall) Hendricks, April 27, 1852, except 10 acres that had been sold to Sadler and Halliday and 71/2 acres sold to George Stone.c After the War Between the States Harrison Reed bought a considerable portion of the old Hendricks plantation and platted it as South Jacksonville. The remainder was platted in 1882 by Elizabeth Hendricks and named Oklahoma.
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42 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Philip Dell, 1801. (Brooklyn and Riverside) On February 11, 1801, Philip Dell secured a concession from Governor White of 800 acres, extending along the riverfront from the mouth of McCoys Creek to a point about half way between Barrs and King Streets-the bend in Riverside Avenue between these streets is where the line cuts through. It embraced the present Brooklyn and Riverside sections. For many years the tract was known as "Dell's Bluff" and was often referred to in the records by that name. The Dell Bluff tract was acquired by John H. McIntosh January 11, 1805. Title was confirmed to him by the landgrant commissioners John H. McIntosh on October 4, 1823, deeded it to Francis J. Ross. Ross gave Joseph B. Lancaster a quitclaim deed to these 800 acres, December 6, 1833, the consideration mentioned being $2,000. Lancaster held it a little more than ten years, selling only six acres in the meantime, three of which were sold to Blanchard & Rider for a mill site at the mouth of McCoys Creek; on May 1,1844, he deeded the remainder back to Francis I. (J.) Ross, the consideration being $2,500. Francis J. Ross conveyed it to William B. Ross March 24, 1845, and William B. Ross sold it to James Winter February 6, 1847. Winter died in possession of the property and his estate descended to his heirs. On April 23, 1866, Uriah Bowden bought a portion of these lands from the commissioners of the Winter estate. Miles Price finally acquired the bulk of the Winter estate, and on June 8, 1868, he conveyed 500 acres to E. M. Cheneyc in trust to be conveyed to John M. Forbes (a Boston millionaire) for $10,000 in gold.f The property was platted for Forbes into lots February 1, 1869, and named "Riverside", provision being made for a park of 14 acres, now Riverside Park., John Jones, 1801-Isaac Hendricks, 1804. (LaVilla) Under date of February 11, 1801, John Jones obtained a concession of 350 acres in a triangular tract on the north side of the River San Juan beginning at the mouth of McCoys Creek and lying north of it. Jones seems to have forfeited his title to this tract, for it was re-ceded to Isaac Hendricks by the Spanish governor in February, 1804, and on Septem-
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 43 her 28, 1816, Isaac Hendricks received title of absolute property to the same from Governor Coppinger. In presenting his claim to the land-grant commissioners Isaac Hendricks exhibited the original patent to Jones and also produced a deed from Jones's heirs to himself. The commissioners confirmed the title to Hendricks. Isaac Hendricks had in the meantime given the property to his wife, Catherine Hendricks, by a Deed of Gift. The confirmation was for 500 acres, bounded south by McCoys Creek, East by the Taylor Grant, Northwest by public lands.a After Mrs. Hendricks, the title appears in Rebecca Jones (who later married Calvin Reed). Rebecca Jones on October 21, 1831, sold the east half of the tract, 250 acres, afterward known as East LaVilla, to John W. Richard. Richard on July 2, 1836, deeded an undivided one-half interest in 249 acres of this tract to Adin Waterman, Trustee for Lydia V. Pinkston, wife of Milo K. Pinkston, in accordance with a pre-marriage agreement between Lydia Waterman and Milo Pinkston, whereby certain property was required to be placed in trust for the sole and separate use of Lydia. Then began a series of amusing transfers and inter-transfers, and after traveling around for several years the title came back to Adin Waterman, Trustee for Lydia V. Pinkston, safe and sound; and in another chain also the half interest of John W. Richard, amounting in all to 225 acres. Adin Waterman, Trustee, etc., under power of attorney from Lydia V. and Milo K. Pinkston, transferred the property on January 15, 1842, to Rev. James McDonald,c who was then the pastor of the Baptist Church in Jacksonville. The chain of title to West LaVilla was not so complicated. Calvin and Rebecca Reed deeded the 250 acres July 29, 1839, to J. W. Richard. Three days afterward (August 1, 1839) Richard quit-claimed to John Warren. On March 19, 1842, John Warren deeded these 250 acres to James McDonald.c Rev. McDonald had acquired East LaVilla the previous January and thus nearly all of the original grant was brought together under single ownership. Mr. McDonald disposed of these holdings in 1851. On January 28, 1851, he sold 350 acres to Samuel Spencer, and the remainder February 1, 1851, to Rev. Joseph S. Baker, who had succeeded Rev. McDonald as the Baptist pastor in Jacksonville. Mr. Baker acquired Samuel Spencer's interest June
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44 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 9, 1851, and the property was again brought together under one ownership.c Rev. Joseph S. Baker held the tract until after the war when he sold the bulk of his estate to F. F. L'Engle and others and the property was subdivided and much of it incorporated in the Town of LaVilla. It has been published that when Mr. Baker bought the McDonald farm his son, J. McRobert Baker, remodeled the McDonald home and named the plantation LaVilla. He built a school house on the land and named it LaVilla Institute. This school continued until the beginning of the War Between the States.f Robert Hutcheson, 1815. (Willowbrook Park Section and Ingleside) Robert Hutcheson (often spelled Hutchinson in the records) on December 12, 1815, obtained a Spanish grant comprising 150 acres on the northwest side of the River San Juan, described by surveyors' measurements.a The tract was nearly square and had a river frontage extending from a point between James and Cherry Streets to about Donald Street. It lacked only a few hundred feet of adjoining the Dell tract on the east. Robert Hutcheson died in possession of the property. His widow, as administratrix, sold the land (together with the Hutcheson concession adjoining on the southwest, sec page 48) to Dr. Whipple Aldrich, October 25, 1830. Dr. Aldrich conveyed to William McKay March 19, 1836. Mr. McKay died in possession, and in settlement of his estate, this property was sold, his heirs joining in quitclaim deeds, to Francis D. Scarlett March 2, 1850. Francis D. Scarlett sold it April 11, 1850, to Elias G. Jaudon. Elias G. Jaudon sold a part of the original grant (it is the grant and not the Hutcheson concession that we are tracing here), lying mostly east of Willow Brook to Ewell Jamison. Elias G. Jaudon and wife on May 15, 1869, deeded the remaining part of the grant south of Willow Brook (and a narrow strip of a few acres of the concession joining on the south) to Sarah J. McKinlay, their daughter, as her proportion of the estate. This "Gift of Love and Affection" to Mrs. McKinlay is now Ingleside and Pinehurst. The records do not indicate why the narrow strip of a few acres was included. Maybe some interesting little circumstance was involved, possibly of a topographical nature.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 45 George Atkinson, 1816. (Shadow Lawn, Arden, Fishweir Park) George Atkinson, on February 22, 1816, obtained a concession from Governor Coppinger of a tract of land lying along but mostly north of Fishware (Big Fishweir) Creek. Two years later Robert Hutcheson obtained a concession embracing lands adjoining his (Hutcheson's) grant. When the survey of the Hutcheson concession was made it was found that it included lands claimed by Atkinson. A controversy arose between Hutcheson and Atkinson in regard to the "over-lap" and it was taken to the courts. The landgrant commissioners confirmed the over-lap to Hutcheson,a and a court decree in December, 1829, did likewise and established the line. There was no question about the other lines of the Atkinson concession and the land commissioners confirmed to him that portion outside of the over-lap. According to the survey it contained 219 acres. *From the decision of the commissioners and the court, Atkinson had no legal claim to the over-lap. If he really needed more land the opportunity for securing it was knocking at his southern door, for there was an unclaimed stretch along the riverfront between his land and that of McQueen (McIntosh) equal in size if not greater than the part in controversy that he no doubt could easily have acquired under the Donation Act. The controversy between Hutcheson and Atkinson started in Spanish times. Atkinson owned the tract for a great many years and died in possession. It was deeded to Fannie L. Fehrenbach November 25, 1881, by Henry Young, executor of the estate of George Atkinson. Mrs. Fehrenbach platted the property in 1882c and put it on the market in acreage tracts. This is now Shadow Lawn, Arden, and Fishweir Park. Maria. Taylor, 1816. (Jacksonville, west of Market Street) During the "Patriot" troubles a Spanish subject named Purnal Taylor was killed in a skirmish with a scouting party of the "Patriot" army in the inland passage to Fernandina. His widow, Mrs. Maria Taylor, afterward petitioned the Spanish governor and was granted 200 acres of vacant land on the
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46 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA north side of the River San Juan, opposite Fort San Nicholas. A copy of the land-grant to Mrs. Taylor follows:a (Translation) Don Jose Coppinger, lieutenant colonel of the royal armies, civil and military governor pro ter., and chief of the royal finance in the city of St. Augustine, Florida, and its province: Whereas by royal order of the 29th of March, 1815, his majesty has been pleased to approve the gifts and rewards proposed by my predecessor, the Brigadier Don Sebastian Kindelan, for the officers and soldiers both of the line as well as the militia of the said province, who contributed to the defense of the same at the time of the rebellion, being one of said rewards, the partition of lands in proportion to the number of family each individual may have, That Dona Maria Suarez, widow of Turnel (Purnal) Taylor, having presented herself soliciting the quantity she, her deceased husband, children and slaves were entitled to, on account of the said husband being killed in the attack made by the enemy upon the river St. Johns during the insurrection in this province, as she has proven by certificate, then was granted by my decree on the 12th of the present month two hundred acres of land on the opposite side of the military post of St. Nicholas, on the river St. Johns, at the mouth of the creek known as McCoy's Creek, bounded on the west by the plantation of John Jones and on the other sides by vacant lands; all conformable to the regulation established by this government for the partition of lands and the number of persons and slaves her said family is composed of, as is set forth in the proceedings instituted by the above-mentioned Dona Maria Suarez, on file in the government notary's office. Given under my hand and seal and countersigned by the undersigned notary of the government and royal finance, in the city of St. Augustine, Florida, September 13, 1816. JOSE COPPINGER. By order of his Excellency, Juan de Entralgo, etc., etc., etc. The award of the land-grant commissioners confirming the original title in Hogans (Taylor) was made April 26, 1824,a almost two years after the town of Jacksonville had been surveyed and founded. I. D. Hart eventually got hold of all of the Taylor grant, excepting ten acres. In 1821 he bought 18 acres in the southeast corner nearest the ford; this tract was later included in the original survey of Jacksonville. On July 10, 1831, he acquired another section of the Taylor grant; May 28, 1834, another; and April 15, 1836, all of the remaining portion,L, except the ten acres referred to above. The boundaries of the Taylor grant as filed with the
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 47 land-commissioners were: North by public land; South by River St. Johns; West by lands formerly granted to John Jones (the Hendricks grant); East by lands granted to Maestre.a Juan Maestre, 1816 (Jacksonville, east of Market Street) Juan Maestre (referred to in English as John Masters), a "Skipper in the Boats of the Royal Domain", representing himself as being in straitened circumstances, petitioned on November 18, 1816, for 100 acres of "vacant hammock lands on the north side of the river St. Johns, opposite the battery of St. Nicholas". The Spanish governor ordered that Maestre's petition be granted and it was done on December 13, 1816. He was granted only 50 acres, however, as that was all he was entitled to under the Spanish law,a but the land actually granted was increased by subsequent surveys to about 80 acres.h His land was bounded East and North by Hogans Creek, West by the Maria Taylor grant, and South by the River St. Johns. It was surveyed February 21, 1817, by George I. F. Clarke.a On June 21, 1820, Maestre sold the tract to John Brady for $200. Brady conveyed it John Bellamy January 27, 1823, after Jacksonville had been founded and some lots had been sold. I. D. Hart got control of John Bellamy's interest July 26, 1826, but he did not get title by conveyance from Bellamy until May 4, 1836. On December 18, 1836, for $1100, I. D. Hart conveyed his right, title and interest in this property to William J. Mills, in trust for Mrs. Maria Doggett.c Daniel Hogans, 1817 (East Jacksonville, Fairfield) Daniel Hogans, under date of March 18, 1817, obtained a concession from Governor Coppinger of 255 acres, situated on the north bank of the St. Johns River, nearly opposite the battery of San Nicholas, and east of Hogans Creek. Daniel Hogans conveyed this land to E. Hudnall November 11, 1818, the consideration named being $330.a On May 10, 1838, Elizabeth Hendricks (widow), formerly the widow of E. Hudnall and holder of the title to the Daniel Hogans tract, conveyed the property to Rev. David Brown (who at that time was rector of St. Johns Church in Jacksonville,
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48 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA and editor of the Jacksonville Courier newspaper); the consideration named in this transfer was $700. David Brown, on October 18, 1849, sold to John Brantly and Mrs. P. W. Bryant (afterward Mrs. George Houston), jointly, for $500.t Mr. Brown seems to have lost money in this deal, if the consideration given in the deed, $500, was the full selling price. John Brantly and Mrs. George Houston in January, 1850, reached an agreement for the division of the property, the transaction being properly drawn up and recorded. Both Brantly and Houston began to sell parcels to different parties, some for saw-mill sites and others for other purposes.b Robert Hutcheson, 1818 (Avondale, Ribault Place, Ingleside Heights) Robert Hutcheson (often spelled Hutchinson in the records) on January 9, 1818, obtained a concession from Governor Coppinger of 350 acres bounded Northerly by his (Hutcheson's) grant of 1815, Easterly by St. Johns River, Southerly by George Atkinson's lands, Westerly by vacant land. (This is the property involved in the "over-lap" controversy described on page 44.) The land-grant commissioners approved Hutcheson's claim to this property June 17, 1824.a Robert Hutcheson died in possession, and Elizabeth Hutcheson, his widow, executrix under his will, sold both the grant and the concession to Dr. Whipple Aldrich, October 25, 1830. Grant and concession both trace through the same chain to Elias G. Jaudon, namely, Whipple Aldrich to William McKay, March 19, 1836; to Francis D. Scarlett, March 2, 1850; to Elias G. Jaudon, April 11, 1850.Elias G. Jaudon died in possession of the concession in 1871, except the narrow strip along the northeasterly line previously deeded to his daughter Sarah J. McKinlay. His will provided that the .property, then known as "Magnolia Plantation", be divided equally among his wife and four children, naming them. This was done March 10, 1872, by three regularly appointed commissioners. The division was platted as Lots 1 to 5 inclusive, and assignment made:c Lot 1, Jane I. Jaudon; Lot 2, Laura A. Weeks; Lot 3, Mary E. Duffie. Avondale and Ribault Place are subdivisions of these lots. Lot 4, Thomas H. Jaudon. Ingleside Heights is a part of Lot 4. Lot 5, Ella L. Jaudon, now subdivided into building lots.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 49 John R. Hogans, 1820 (Springfield) During the latter part of the year 1820, John R. Hogans settled on land north of Hogans Creek, and under the Donation Act received title to 640 acres. This is called Hogans's Donation. He conveyed these 640 acres to W. G. Dawson July 24, 1823.a On February 3, 1829, I. D. Hart, ex-officio administrator of the estate of W. G. Dawson, deceased, conveyed the tract to John Warren. John Warren conveyed it to I. D. Hart October 25, 1829. Hart sold it to Thomas G. Saunders in 1846. On September 9, 1847, Thomas G. Saunders conveyed it to Adeline Jones.c *Adeline Jones was the daughter of John Middleton and Captain Middleton bought this property for her for $450 in gold. On August 4, 1849, Adeline and husband sold 50 acres for $50 to E. A. DeCottes; this is now Hansontown. In 1867, 4 acres were sold to Frank Franklin (colored) for $100; now called Franklintown.g With the above exceptions Hogans's Donation descended to Eliza Jones (afterward Mrs. W. M. Bostwick), daughter of Thomas W. and Adeline Jones. The bulk of it was sold to the Springfield Company in 1882, and by that company platted into lots.g The name Springfield was given to the section north of Hogans Creek about 1869, it is said by C. L. Robinson, and the name was really suggested by a spring of good water located in a field through which West Fourth Street would now pass.g Along the Riverfront When the United States acquired Florida (1821) the entire riverfront on the north side from Commodore's Point to Ortega was held under Spanish grants or concessions, except for two little breaks. There was a gap about as wide as a city block at the foot of King Street where the Dell and the Hutcheson lands failed to meet; and another of a few hundred yards south of Fishweir Creek between the Atkinson and McIntosh (McQueen) lines. Elsewhere in this locality on both sides of the river and in the back country were other grants and concessions and donations, but those traced here have the most important bearing on the built-up por-
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50 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA tion of the city. The chain of title to these is remarkably complete, especially for the early times, when the filing of a deed was considered a matter of no vital importance, as a transfer of land then became a matter of public knowledge. Sometimes deeds were held for years before they were recorded. Bibliography. Chapter m aAmerican State Papers, Public Iands, Vol. IV: bBill of Complaint in suit to quiet title; cTitle abstracts; fNewspaper account; gMrs. W. M. Bostwick; hFlorida Reports. VoL V. p. 216; Vol. VI, p. 483; Vol. XIV, p. 162.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 51 CHAPTER IV JACKSONVILLE FOUNDED First Settlers Robert Pritchard, as has been noted, was the first white settler on the site of Jacksonville when he established himself here in 1791. Whether the overseers cultivating the land for the Pritchard heirs joined the Patriots in 1812 or were driven off by them is not known. The grant made to Mrs. Maria Taylor in 1816 comprised a part of the land formerly occupied by Pritchard. Mrs. Taylor married Lewis Zachariah Hogans shortly after she procured the grant, and they at once began building a home. About Christmas time (1816) they moved across from the south side of the river and occupied their new home. The house was built of logs, but it was larger and more carefully constructed than the usual log cabins of that day. It stood near the northwest corner of Hogan and Forsyth Streets, partly in Forsyth Street, immediately west of the present Duval Hotel. Hogans cleared a field east of his house and fenced it; his eastern fence ran alongside a swamp, about where Laura Street is now. In the spring of 1817 he planted a crop from which he gathered in great abundance. The old Hogans well, situated where the U. S. Government building now stands, was a landmark remembered by citizens up to a few years ago. The log cabin gave way to a better house (frame) before the War Between the States. *L. Z. Hogans laid down his life in the Spring of 1837 in the war with the Seminoles. He left practically no estate. The grant made to Juan Maestre, also in 1816, joined the Maria Taylor grant at what is now Market Street. Maestre took possession of his land in 1817 and built his cabin at what is now the southwest corner of Forsyth and Liberty Streets.a It was a typical one-room log cabin. Maestre cleared a field and put in a crop in the spring of 1817, but he never gathered it. The "Carthagenians" took possession of Fernandina about that time, and fearing a repetition of the Patriot troubles, the Spanish garrison at San Nicholas and
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52 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA the Boats of the Royal Domain to which Maestre was at. tached, were withdrawn to St. Augustine. He therefore was taken away from his new home and lost his crop. Maestre never returned to the St. Johns.a John Brady arrived at the Cow Ford in the summer or fall of 1818, and occupied Maestre's cabin, probably under some sort of rental contract, until June 21, 1820,when he obtained title to the grant by conveyance from Maestre. Brady fixed the cabin up, built an addition to it and erected a shed for a stable. He bought a dugout for the purpose of sculling passengers across the river, as he no doubt saw the need of a ferry and figured that it would increase his income.a The cabin was on the side of the road near the ferry and travelers usually rested here and fed their horses, furnishing another means of revenue for the pioneer. h *John Brady moved to Alabama in February, 1823. The First Store Among the early travelers to the St. Johns country were two men from Georgia, William G. Dawson and Stephen E. Buckles, who foresaw that some day a town might be built at this point. They decided to remain and open a store; this was probably in 1819. They built a log house near the King's Road (south side of Adams Street, about 150 feet from the southwest corner of Market); brought down a stock of goods by sailing vessel from New York, and opened a mercantile establishment This was the first store in this section of the country, and Dawson & Buckles worked up a good business. It was not what we usually picture as a general country store carrying all kinds of small articles; the stock comprised such goods as blankets, saddles and bridles, farming implements, buckets, and the like. Sometimes the proprietors sold out of goods entirely, for transportation by sailing vessel was slow and uncertain, prohibiting the regulation of supply and demand.b *Stephen E. Buckles returned to Georgia probably in 1822. William G. Dawson died in Jacksonville October 19, 1826; he was prominent as a man of affairs, and at his death owned the 640 acres now known as Springfield and other property of considerable value.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 53 Isaiah David Hart was the next settler at the Cow Ford; he came in January, 1821. Hart was not a stranger to this locality, for he was a Patriot of 1812. Accounts of the store that had been opened at the Cow Ford reached him while he was living on his farm near the St. Marys River; hearing of Dawson & Buckles' success and that John Brady was doing well, he decided to move here and locate permanently.c On May 12, 1821, I. D. Hart bought 18 acres from L. Z. Hogans (bounded east by Market Street and south by the river), paying $72 for the 18 acres, it is said in cattle. He built a double log cabin (about where the Church club now stands, on the south side of Forsyth Street between Market and Newnan); brought his household goods here by boat and his family across country. Daniel C. Hart, his brother, came at the same time.a First Hotel Up to this time, the traveler wishing to spend the night in the future metropolis of Florida, had a miserable experience ahead of him.b John Brady was kind-hearted and offered such as he had, but his cabin afforded little that was inviting, and his guests usually slept under the trees with a saddle for a pillow. Often Dawson & Buckles came to the rescue by offering the use of the attic above the store, and occasionally in special cases spread stock blankets on the store-house floor for the comfort of some visitor. Dawson & Buckles were the first to see the need of better accommodations for those who wished to stay and see the country, and they built a frame house east of their store (at the southwest corner of Adams and Market Streets) for a boarding house. It was constructed of lumber sawed in a sawpit and was the first frame house in this section of the country. Upon its completion in 1821, its owners sent down to St. Johns Bluff for Mrs. Sarah Waterman to come and take charge. Upon her arrival the population of the settlement increased one hundred per cent, as she brought her four daughters and two young sons with her.a *They were Helen; Ann (married Joshua Hickman); Louisa (married Wm. H. Burritt); Lydia (married Milo Pinkston); Adin. The name of the other son is not known. Mrs. Waterman died Sept. 4, 1830. Adin and Lydia figured in the LaVilla land titles.
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54 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Mrs. Waterman's boarding house, called the "Inn", was frequently mentioned in the newspaper (St. Augustine) accounts of the early court days in Jacksonville. A young barrister writing for the St. Augustine paper stated that he was glad to sit down to supper "at which a good-looking girl presided."d Joseph Andrews, brother-in-law of I. D. Hart, was the next settler to arrive at the Cow Ford. He built a frame house on what is now the south side of Adams Street, midway between Newnan and Ocean Streets.a This was the resident population when Jacksonville was founded. All resided within the limits of the town as later surveyed, except L. Z. Hogans. Jacksonville Founded, 1822 When the actual transfer of Florida to the United States was accomplished in July, 1821, travel from the States increased, and most of the land travel to East Florida came down over the Kings road and, consequently, to the settlement at the Cow Ford. I. D. Hart had not been here long when he conceived the idea of laying off a townsite. He experienced considerable difficulty in convincing his neighbor, John Brady, of the possibility of developing a town here; bur finally, though not enthusiastic about the matter, Brady consented to donate the land necessary for the streets. When all was in readiness for the survey, a question arose that nearly broke up the plan, for Brady and Hart could not agree as to the dividing line between their lands from which the survey was to begin. After considerable dispute they at last agreed to accept the claim of L. Z. Hogans that the corner tree stood on the river bank at the foot of the present Market Street, and the survey should start from there.e *There is a note in an old abstract that I have examined stating that this tree was a fine old bay. The naming of Bay Street may have been influenced by this fact. The town was surveyed in June, 1822, under the supervision of three commissioners, residents of the neighborhood, namely Francis J. Ross, Benjamin Chaires and John Bellamy. The surveyor was D. S. H. Miller, who formerly was connected with the Spanish post San Nicholas as "Captain of the Rural Militia of the St. Johns River, District of
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JACKSONVILLE AS ORIGINALLY SURVEYED IN 1822 DUVAL ST7 2o 19 1 !7 17 AI MONROE ST ADA/J S S7 // 3 a I \ s ^ / U) rrs^ sr \ __ 0 2 2 -I () HISTRuY of SJAt4tOK'SOAV/hL iD 84 S AY ST O S £/VE
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 55 San Nicholas, and Deputy Surveyor". John W. Roberts acted as Clerk.f It was decided that there should be six lots, each 105 feet square, in each block-two lots adjoining north and south (210 feet), and three lots east and west (315 feet). The survey began at the corner tree agreed upon and thence northerly a street was surveyed, eighty feet in width, the property owners on each side donating 40 feet. This was Jacksonville's first street and was given the name Market Street," but why it was so named seems to have become a lost record. The next street laid off was Bay Street with a width of seventy feet. The first square designated and numbered was east of Market and north of Bay, and in compliment to Brady as the first settler present upon the land in that part of the survey, it was designated Square No. 1. The next square was across Market Street west of No. 1, and it was designated No. 2. The square north of it was numbered 3; and east of that, 4. When the survey was being made of Square No. 1, it was found that Brady's house would be in the street, according to the original plan; so another tier of lots was added on the east side of Square No. 1, making this square eight lots instead of six, but saving Brady from living in the middle of the street." Thus the tier of blocks between Liberty and Market Streets is composed of eight lots instead of six. The survey was then extended to Square No. 5 east of No. 1, the Kings road leading north from the river between them. The street was named Liberty Street, but in the old records it seemed to have been occasionally called Ferry Street also. The square north of No. 5 was designated No. 6; north of that, No. 8; west of that, No. 7; and west of No. 7, No. 9. This was the surveyor's wrong marking and was not corrected on the original plat." From the survey of Square No. 9, the commissioners came back to Bay Street and ran off Square No. 10 west of No. 2; and north of No. 10, they surveyed Nos. 11 and 12, respectively. Again they came back to Bay Street east of Washington Street and laid off Square No. 13 east of No. 5; and north of No. 13, they surveyed Nos. 14, 15, 16 in the order named. Then they turned west and surveyed Nos. 17, 18, 19, and 20. Here they stayed their work and never resumed it.a
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56 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE; FLORIDA Town Named By unanimous agreement the town was named Jacksonville, in honor of General Andrew Jackson, popular idol of that day in Florida. The name was suggested by John Warren, a resident of the locality, but not of the town; he had served as a volunteer in the army of General Jackson during the Indian troubles in West Florida." General Jackson was not present when the town was surveyed, as some accounts have stated; in fact, there is no authentic record that he ever visited this part of Florida at all. Street Names The streets named by the commissioners in 1822 still bear their original names. Market and Bay cannot be definitely traced as to their meaning. Liberty and Washington indicate the patriotism of the commissioners. Newnan was named for Col. Daniel Newnan, here with the Patriots and who made the famous campaign against the Indian King Payne in central Florida; and afterward was Inspector-General of Georgia. Forsyth was named for General John Forsyth, U. S. Minister to Spain, who conducted the negotiations for the acquisition of Florida. Adams Street was named for John Quincy Adams, then Secretary of State in President Monroe's cabinet, and who had a great deal to do with the cession of Florida; Monroe Street for President James Monroe; and Duval Street for Governor William P. Duval, first civil governor of Florida. First Realty Transfer At the time Jacksonville was platted and named the townsite was in St. Johns County. Duval County was not created until two months afterward, or on August 12, 1822. Consequently, the first deeds specify St. Johns County in their description. The first transfer of a lot in the town of Jacksonville was from John Brady to Stephen Eubanks, conveying Lot 2, Square 1, including the margin to the river, for $12.00. The deed was dated July 1, 1822, and described the lot as follows :g One quarter acre of land lying in St. Johns County, in Jacksonville, on the St. Johns River, in the front street leading from the ferry, together with the margin below sd. lot on the river side, to Hart's landing, 3d lot from sd. ferry.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 57 The margin on the river mentioned is now Water Lot No. 22, between Market and Liberty Streets in front of the Clyde Line piers. D. S. H. Miller, the surveyor, acquired several lots in Square 5, maybe in payment for his services as surveyor of the townsite. John Bellamy bought the northwest corner of Liberty and Bay Streets, and John Warren bought lots in different locations. Conveyances of lots were made at intervals during the next few months at prices ranging from $10 to $25 a lot.g Jacksonville's Situation The original survey extended to Catherine Street on the east, Duval Street on the north, Ocean Street on the west, and St. Johns River on the south. All along the river from the foot of Liberty Street westward to L. Z. Hogans's eastern fence (Laura Street) was a hammock through which no one ever passed; the present Main Street south of Duval was a swamp. Eastward of the ferry (Liberty Street to Catherine Street) was a high bluff; east of Catherine Street was low marsh land. North of Forsyth Street was open pine land extending back almost to Hogans Creek. The Kings road led in from the northwest, passing in front of Dawson's store and the "Inn", thence to Liberty Street east of Brady's cabin, where it turned down Liberty Street to the old Cow Ford. Amidst these surroundings, and with this artery of travel leading to the outside world by land and the St. Johns River by water, Jacksonville was launched upon its career. The Founder of Jacksonville When I. D. Hart arrived at the Cow Ford in January, 1821, there were already here a store and two settlers. It is said that upon arrival he pitched a tent at the foot of Liberty Street and lived there until he built his cabin and brought his family here from the St. Marys. The next year, 1822, the town was surveyed after the arrival of several other settlers. I. D. Hart was the originator of the idea and deserves the credit of being Jacksonville's founder. He lived to see the settlement develop into a town of two thousand inhabitants. At one time or another he owned nearly all the land now known as the old city, and the most of Springfield.
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58 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA He also owned a farm near the present settlement of Marietta; this place he called "'Cracker Swamp", and he seems to have cultivated it to a certain extent with slaves and free labor. His homestead was in Jacksonville, first in his logcabin; then at the northwest corner of Bay and Market Streets, and finally, for many years, at the southeast corner of Laura and Forsyth Streets. I. D. Hart outlived all of the early settlers. Both he and his wife, Nancy, died in 1861, and were buried in a vault that had already been erected by him for his family, located on a plot of ground on the east side of Laura Street between State and Orange, back from the Laura Street line about 100 feet. His tomb bore this queer inscription: When I am dead and in my grave, And these bones are all rotten; When this you see, remember me, That I may not be forgotten. In 1896, the Hart vault was broken into by vandals who removed everything of value, including the silver nameplates. This led to an investigation by a reporter for a local newspaper, who published the fact that there were evidences that nine bodies had been placed in the vault, namely, I. D. Hart, his wife and children, and Mary E. Hart, a favorite niece. *The children of I. D. and Nancy Hart were: Ossian, Lodusky, Laura, Daniel, Julia, and Nancy. Nancy was an invalid and met the sad fate of being burned to death. Laura and Julia Streets are named for two of these children. It has been said that Ocean was formerly Ossian Street, but the Child map of 1847 designates it as Ocean. The fire of 1901 greatly damaged the old Hart vault and instead of rebuilding it, the remains it contained were moved to a lot in Evergreen cemetery and the vault in the city demolished. Bibliography, Chapter IV aHistory of Florida, Webb; bDescriptive article in East Florida Herald (St. Augustine), Dec. 20, 1825; cFlorida Times-Union and Citizen, Jan. 1, 1900; dEast Florida Herald (St. Augustine), April 14, 1826; eFlorida Reports, Vol. VI, p. 491; fMemoirs of Florida, Fleming; gCounty (Archibald) records; hEarly newspaper accounts.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 59 CHAPTER V COUNTY AFFAIRS Duval County was created August 12, 1822, by the first council under Governor William P. Duval's administration. Its original boundaries were: Suwanee River on the west; a line drawn from the mouth of the Suwanee River to the foot of Liberty Street in Jacksonville (designated in the Act as the Cow Ford), thence down the St. Johns River as it meanders to the ocean was the southern boundary, while the St. Marys River and the Georgia line constituted the northern boundary.Jacksonville was selected as the county seat of the new county. The governing board of the county comprised four justices, one of whom was the presiding justice. While it was termed a county court its jurisdiction was extremely limited in that respect and the name county commissioners would have been more appropriate for the duties performed. As a court their jurisdiction did not approach the importance of our present justices of the peace.b The first meeting of this court was in Jacksonville on December 16, 1822. The justices were: Thomas Reynolds, presiding; William G. Dawson, Rignon Brown, and Britton Knight. George Gibbs was the clerk.c They proceeded to lay off the county into road districts, apportioned the work of building the roads, and attended to other matters of a like sort.b James Dell was the first sheriff of the county, but he did not serve long; Daniel C. Hart was his successor, being later appointed U. S. marshal and holding both positions until his death.' First Regular Court The half a dozen houses comprising the Town of Jacksonville, in 1823, were all situated in plain sight of the Kings road that led down to the ferry at the foot of Liberty Street. Travelers coming and going, or stopping for awhile, produced no exceptional stir; but on the last day of November, 1823, which was Sunday, it became evident that an event of unusual importance was about to transpire. People had been coming in all day looking for a place to lodge. Mrs. Sarah Waterman's Inn was filled to the limit. Joseph Andrews had
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60 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA all the guests that he could accommodate and I. D. Hart's abode had no vacant space. Abraham Bellamy offered the use of his 10x12 law office recently erected next to Brady's old cabin, and W. G. Dawson went further and spread blankets on the floor of his store for some of the overflow to sleep. L. Z. Hogans, over on the hill beyond the swamp, played host to one or two. So Jacksonville and vicinity went to bed that night crowded to capacity. When the morning glow of Monday (December 1st) began to brighten over the roadside settlement on the St. Johns, it was the dawn of a new day for Duval County. By 10 o'clock, 200 people had assembled in the vicinity of Market and Forsyth Streets to witness the convening of the first regular court of law held in this part of the country. It was an impressive spectacle. Standing bareheaded, with no roof above them except the forest trees, they listened intently to the words of Judge Joseph L. Smith in the opening proceedings of what was then called the Superior court. The ceremony was new to the most of them, but all were apparently pleased with the scene, signifying that civil law had stepped in to take the place of the long established custom of personal settlement of differences/ *The corner-stone of the handsome junior high school in Springfield was laid in 1923, and the building dedicated to the memory of General Edmund Kirby Smith, the famous Confederate general, who fought for the just cause as he saw it. There is also another association here, for it was the centennial of the event described above, when General Smith's father established the cause of justice for the county at Jacksonville. First Grand Jury From among those assembled at the opening proceedings of the court, a grand jury was drawn and impanelled the next day, December 2, 1823. The members of this first grand jury of Duval County were: John Bellamy, foreman; Stephen J. Eubanks, John Houston, Isaac Tucker, Charles Broward, Seymour Pickett, John Broward, John Price, James Dell, William Matthews, Cotton Rawls, A. G. Loper, Llewellyn Williams, Charles Seton, John D. Braddock, J. C. Houston, Nathaniel Wilds, Stephen Vinzant.c
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 61 First Civil Case The first civil case called for trial was that of Ephraim Harrison vs. John D. Vaughan. The record does not show the nature of this litigation, but evidently it was of some importance, as Judge Smith ordered the continuance of the case until the next term. The record recites:'" "(In case) This day came the parties aforesaid, by their attorneys, and thereupon came a jury, to wit:-F. D. McDonnell, Lewis Christopher, Britton Knight, James Rouse, William Sparkman, John Higginbotham, David Turner, Matthew H. Philips, John G. Brown, John G. Rushing, William G. Dawson and Lewis Thigpen, who were sworn well and truly to try the issue joined between the parties; and on motion of the plaintiff by his attorney, and for reasons appearing satisfactory to the court, it is ordered that the jury be discharged from rendering a verdict herein, and that this cause be continued until the next term, upon the plaintiff paying all costs of the defendant herein expended." County Courts In 1823, the Legislature made some changes in the original method of county government and appointed new justices, but it was not until the following year, 1824, that the law vested them with powers about equal to our present justices of the peace. They had jurisdiction over probate matters, over the police of the county, and performed the duties of county supervisors. As a court they had a certain amount of jurisdiction in minor cases.a The first incumbents under this law, appointees of the governor, were: John L. Doggett, presiding; F. Bethune and John Houston, appointed December 30, 1824.c The minutes of this court in the early years are still preserved. The actual duties seem to have been mostly with matters pertaining to the roads of the county and to the question of raising funds for the completion of the court house and keeping it in repair. Even as late as 1840, the notation "Met and adjourned, there being no business" often appears. *"Court Day" in the early days was the time when the people of the county came to town whether they had court business or not. They assembled to trade, to hear the "news" and to mix with their fellow men. Here and there among the trees could be seen little groups dickering on a horse trade; others in the stores bargaining with the storekeepers for implements and supplies, while loitering around the court house
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62 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA whittling away the time for the "Hear ye, hear ye, hear ye", etc., of the court crier were those whose business or curiosity led them there. Leaving for home they raced out Kings road in a cloud of dust. First Lawyer in Jacksonville Abraham Bellamy, son of John Bellamy the commissioner, was the first lawyer to settle at the county seat. This was in 1823. He built a little office west of John Brady's cabin, which was then owned by his father, and here he drew up most of the early legal papers for the residents of this section.b Enough odds and ends of descriptions have been gathered to picture it as a typical country lawyer's office, equipped with a table and time-worn chairs of home manufacture; a few law books scattered here and there amidst a disorderly array of bundles of papers; a map tacked up against the door; plenty of dust, and finally a box spittoon filled with sand. Nevertheless, Abraham Bellamy's ability as a lawyer was greater than his surroundings indicated, for he was afterward a familiar figure in the Territorial councils and at one time was president of that body. *John Bellamy moved to Middle Florida in 1826 and Abraham Bellamy likewise sometime later. First Marriage License One of Duval County's oldest official records is a court copy of the first marriage license issued by the county. It reads:' Territory of Florida County of Duval To any Judge, Justice of the Peace, ordained Minister of the Gospel, I license or permit you to Join together in the Holy State of Matrimony Mr. Robert Robertson and Miss Sarah Tucker, and this shall be your sufficient warrant. After the above marriage is solemnized you are hereby commanded to return the same certified on this license to my office. October 7, 1823. J. BELLAMY, Clerk. The First Court House Court evidently was held under the trees until 1825, as prior to that time there was no building here suitable for the purpose. In 1825, John Warren erected a two-story building
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 63 at the northwest corner of Bay and Newnan Streets. The lower story was for a time used as a dwelling and was afterward divided for a store. The upper floor was one room; here the Superior court held two or three terms, with considerable discomfort as there were no sash windows, and the wind and rain had full sweep through.f When it became known that Jacksonville had been selected as the county seat John Brady conveyed the lot at the northeast corner of Market and Forsyth Streets (actually valued at $15) to Benjamin Chaires and Francis J. Ross in trust to be conveyed to the county as a site for the court house.b Preparations for building a court house were started in 1824, but actual construction did not begin until the summer of 1825. Immense hewn timbers were hauled to the lot and when they were laid out for framing the people of the county voluntarily gathered and under the direction of Seymour Pickett raised them in two days.b When this was done Messrs. Chaires and Ross deeded the lot to the county (July 13, 1825) in compliance with the trust from Brady. The court house remained in this state more than three years, with only the framing standing. In 1826 the basement was roofed over and subsequent terms of court were held there when the weather was good; or else in the hall over John Warren's place. About 1828-9, the framing was boarded in and the roof put on. The temporary hewn timbers supporting the construction were removed and brick pillars of great size and strength were built and the building correctly leveled. The court house faced the river. A long, broad portico, supported by brick pillars was before the front and broad steps led up to it from the ground. Back of these was the entrance to the basement, which was ten feet in the clear. The main entrance was ten feet high and was provided with wide double doors. Inside steps led up on the east and the west to the upper story. The windows, seven feet high and four feet wide, were provided with double shutters of white pine, which closed out the wind and rain and also the light.b This court house was known far and wide as the best constructed building in all of this part of the country.b The difficulties confronting the county authorities in raising funds for the completion of the court house are recorded in their minutes. They petitioned the U. S. government to
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64 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA complete it, as the Superior court was using it more than any other, which brought about an arrangement whereby the government paid the county rent for its use; they had difficulty sometimes in collecting this rent promptly. They petitioned the Territorial Legislature for permission to run lotteries in order to raise the $6,000 needed to complete the court house. Joseph B. Lancaster, I. D. Hart and William J. Mills were authorized by the Legislature to conduct the lottery. These gentlemen were all church members and one was a deacon; the inference is, that lotteries in that day were not considered gambling. *Something is hidden somewhere behind this struggle for funds to complete the court house, for the people of this section in the 1830's prior to the Seminole war and the panic of 1837, were evidently enjoying prosperity, as they were laying plans for a $76,000 bank and a million dollar railroad for the county seat. Yet they opposed a special tax levy to raise the $6,000 necessary to complete the building. The court house was not finally completed until sometime in the early 1840's, from funds derived from a scrip issue. The building was burned by Federal troops March 29, 1863. *Duval County has built three court houses. The second court house was built on the site of the one burned in 1863, but faced Market Street instead of Forsyth. It was solidly built of brick, with unusually thick walls. Construction was commenced in 1884 and the building completed and occupied in November, 1886. A full description of it will be found in the Florida Times-Union of November 5, 1886. The court house walls were the only ones in the city that withstood to any extent the great fire of May 3, 1901. They remained standing and were used in reconstructing the building now occupying that corner, which has the same ground space and the same outline as the court house, except the shape of the tower. The present court house was completed in November, 1902, at a cost of $100,000 secured through a bond issue. The site was shifted across Market Street because the county already owned the two lots on the west side of Market between Adams and Forsyth Streets, and needing more ground for a larger court house than the lot at the northwest corner of Market and Forsyth would accommodate, it was decided to reconstruct the old court house for an armory, and build the new court house across the street. The court house annex was completed in October, 1916, at a cost of about $90,000.
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DUVAL COUNTY CLERK'S OFFICE From a photograph Courtesy of Geo. M. Chapin Built after the War Between the States; burned May 3,1901. Situated at the northwest corner of Market and Forsyth Streets. Built after the War Between the States; burned May 3, 1901. Situated at the northwest corner of Market and Forsyth Streets.
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DUVAL COUNTY COURTHOUSE (1886-1901) .;_ I''~ r," ' ' . I.?· I: I · ; . I. Courtesy of Geo. M. Chapin and C. H. Brown Completed in 1886. Gutted in the fire of May 3, 1901; but its walls remained intact and were used in reconstructing the building. Situated at the northeast corner of Forsyth and Market Streets. ,cl 5~~~~ ~~ P~ ~ ~ r ~"' 1 .9~~~~~(·J;~~ ~. '" ~' 7~~· : / ."~; : .'~E~ /~ ~~v·~l~;;' .. ~-,~., i~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~+ .~ ~' ',,~..~'. ~ ',. at the northeast corner of Forsyth and Market Streets.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 65 Judges of Duval County: Thomas Reynolds (presiding), 1822-1823; Benjamin Chaires (sole), 1823-1824; John L. Doggett (presiding, then sole judge), December, 1824, to January, 1844 (died in office); Farquahar Bethune, 18441845; William F. Crabtree, 1845-1849; Felix Livingston, 1849-1855; Benjamin Hopkins, 1855-1856; R. R. Rushing, 1857; Oscar Hart, 1857; R. R. Rushing, 1858-1859; Chandler S. Emery, 1859-1861; Francis F. L'Engle, 1861-1863; None in 1864; F. I. Wheaton, 1865; Aristides Doggett, 1866 to July, 1868; W. A. McLean, July, 1868, to December, 1888; W. B. Owen, 1889-1892; William H. Baker, 189-3-1900; Henry B. Philips, 1901-1920; John W. DuBose, 1921 to date. Bibliography, Chapter V aActs of the Territorial Councils; bHistory of Florida, Webb; cMemoirs of Florida, Fleming; dDescriptive article in Jacksonville Courier, January, 1835; Records in County Judge's office; fEast Florida Herald (St. Augustine) of the period.
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66 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER VI DEVELOPMENT OF JACKSONVILLE For several years after the survey of Jacksonville in 1822, I. D. Hart must have experienced severe disappointment, for his dream of a boom town at the Cow Ford did not materialize rapidly. Brady and Hogans, who scouted the idea in the beginning, no doubt expressed themselves upon occasion, "I told you so". Brady shortly afterward sold out and moved away, but L. Z. Hogans remained to perpetuate the expression. Up to 1828-30, the development of the place was confined to the building of about one house a year within the town limits. A dismal picture was drawn of it by a writer in the East Florida Herald of St. Augustine, December 20, 1825; he said: When this town (Jacksonville) was laid out on the St. Johns river, great expectations were formed of its rapid increase, commodious houses were soon to be built, commerce and useful mechanic arts were to flourish, and the soil improved by cultivation and industry. But alas! none of these fond expectations have been realized. There are not more than eight or ten houses erected of any description, most of which are rudely formed of logs, and affording only a feeble protection against the cold, the wind, and the rain. There is not a sash window in the whole town; but few of the houses have even a chimney. There appears to be very little trade of any kind carried on in the place. There is, indeed, one store of goods, but whether well or ill supplied, the writer of this article is unable to state, for although he was several days in the place, during the late term of the Superior court held there, and was desirous of purchasing many necessary articles of merchandise, usually kept in country stores, he never found this store open or any person ready to attend upon purchasers. He therefore presumed it was only a warehouse for the deposit and transportation of goods into the country and not for their sale at the place. It was, perhaps, a wholesale and not a retail store. As to mechanics, there does not appear to be a single working individual in the whole place. The building appropriated for the use of the court would scarcely be considered fit for a barn. It is open to the wind and rain at almost every point of the compass. There is, indeed, the frame of a pretty large courthouse erected, which has the appearance of having been in that state for some time. Nothing has since been done to it. Yet nothing can be more beautiful than the natural situation of
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 67 the place. It commands an elevated, picturesque, and extensive view of the St. Johns river at its majestic bend from the south. It is admirably situated for commerce; the water is of sufficient depth for vessels of upwards of a hundred tons burden, to moor close to the shore. The regular term of the Superior court, directed by the Legislative council to be held twice a year, lately drew together at this place a pretty numerous assemblage of strangers. Every house was crammed as closely as possible. The judge of the court, with several members of the bar at St. Augustine, having been detained by the badness of the famous King's road from that city to the Cow-ford, on their arrival at Jacksonville were unable to obtain any kind of lodging there -even on the floor. They were therefore compelled to take up their quarters at Mr. Hendricks's on the other side of the river, a respectable planter, who does not professedly keep a public house, though often influenced by hospitality and kindness to accommodate travelers. He is licensed to keep the ferry on that side of the river, and promptly afforded the Judge and the gentlemen who had business in court every facility in crossing the river. This is one of a number of descriptive articles on Jacksonville published in the St. Augustine paper prior to 1828. All stress the beautiful situation of the village, but complain about the accommodations at court terms. "Junior Barrister" in the Herald of March 26, 1826, remarked that it was customary for the grand jury to lodge in the open air and suggests "with the intention of keeping their heads cool, in order to deliberate with more caution and prudence." First Sawmill In 1828 or 1829, Charles F. Sibbald built the first steam sawmill in East Florida at Panama on Trout Creek. He also operated a brick kiln. Judge F. Bethune, in his diary 1829-33 (still preserved), frequently refers to the steam sawmill and brick kiln at Panama, in connection with building operations at his "New Ross" plantation on the river four miles above Jacksonville. During the summer of 1829, Judge Bethune built a small sugar mill. The lumber and brick were brought up from Panama in the brig "Venus"; he sent to St. Augustine for a carpenter, and the mill was ready for operation by January 1, 1830. He began grinding cane, but soon afterward his cane mill broke down and he had to send again to St. Augustine for the carpenter. In three weeks it was repaired and he began to grind again. This was probably
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68 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA just an ordinary cane mill, and the circumstances are recited to show the difficulties confronting the pioneers of this section. Judge Bethune's crops were sugar cane, rice, guinea corn, arrow root, sweet and Irish potatoes, rye, and a varied assortment of vegetables. He had a peach orchard and an orange grove. He owned some slaves, but at harvest time he hired outside help or free negroes. When his slaves were sick he sent to Jacksonville for a Doctor Hall, no doubt the first doctor to settle here. It is interesting to note that the usual method of treatment was "bleeding": "Andrew sick; Dr. Hall came and bled him" is a characteristic note when any of the slaves were sick. And when one died he noted the fact as "Dick and George making Peggy's coffin; buried the old and faithful servant in the evening"-a simple eulogy full of meaning. The sawmill and brick kiln at Panama revolutionized the method of construction in this section and the log-cabin era in Jacksonville was brought practically to a close. The skeleton of the court house was boarded in with lumber from this mill and its pillars were built of the brick from the kiln. The sound of the axe and the crash of falling trees in and around Jacksonville became more frequent with respect to clearing up for a building; in the high-flown language of Mr. Secretary Walton, "the lofty pines and oaks yielded their shade to the saw and their quietude to the hammer". It was now not a rare occurrence for the "Venus" to be tied up at the foot of Liberty Street unloading sawed lumber for houses or brick for chimneys. In 1830, I. D. Hart built what was then considered a very large two-story boarding house at the northwest corner of Bay and Market Streetsa (and this was continuously a boarding house or hotel site for more than 70 years). Hart's inn furnished accommodations for people who desired to spend the winter here. The sons and relatives of wealthy men in the North came during the winter months and the climate helped them; they went back home greatly benefited, carrying an enthusiasm that is easily communicated to others. So the healthfulness of the locality was established-the greatest asset in the upbuilding of a place and the greatest advertisement it could have. People continued to come. Some stayed and entered into business; some settled in the surrounding localities. In 1830, it is estimated that the
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-p I From old woodcut. Dnweffings of the log-cabin, era at the mouth of McCoys Creek.
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70 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA population of Jacksonville was about one hundred. I. D. Hart now had his turn with L. Z. Hogans with respect to "I told you so". The settlement on the St. Johns was approaching the stage when its citizens wished to incorporate and have a bona-fide town government. It was soon accomplished. Act No. 70 of the Legislative Council of the Territory of Florida, Session of 1832, was Jacksonville's first charter. This charter is worthy of careful reading, for it gives an insight into the conditions of the time, either existing or expectant. The charter follows in full. Jacksonville's First Charter, 1832 Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Governor and the Legislative Council of the Territory of Florida, That all the free white male inhabitants of the age of twenty-one years and over, comprehended within a line commencing at a point on the South bank of the river St. Johns, opposite Hogan's creek, on the north side, running north half a mile up said creek, thence west one mile and a half to McCoy's creek, thence south to a point on the south side of the river St. Johns, opposite to McCoy's creek, thence east to the point of beginning and their successors be, and are hereby declared to be a body politic and corporate, by the name and style of the Town of Jacksonville, with all the rights, liberties, privileges, powers, and authorities incident to and appertaining to a corporation, body politic, or a natural person; and by the said name and style may sue and be sued, plead and be impleaded, hold, possess, and enjoy real estate and personal property; and dispose of and transfer the same, and so dispose of and manage the funds of said city, as shall be most beneficial to the interests thereof. Sec. 2. Be it further enacted that the government of said town, shall be vested in a person to be called a mayor, and four aldermen to compose a council for the management of the affairs of the town. The Mayor and aldermen shall be elected annually, on the first Monday of April, from among such of the qualified voters of said town hereby incorporated, as shall have resided within the limits thereof at least one month, and shall be housekeepers therein. Sec. 3. Be it further enacted, That the said Council shall have the power and authority to pass all laws and ordinances, that may be necessary and expedient for the good government of said town, and the preservation of the public morals; Provided, that they are not inconsistent with the constitution and laws of the United States, and the power hereby granted, Provided no law or ordinance in this respect, shall be inconsistent with any law of this Territory-They shall especially have power to regulate, improve, alter, and extend the streets, lanes, avenues, and public squares, and to open new streets, and to cause encroachments, obstructions, decayed buildings, and old ruins
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 71 to be removed; making the parties injured by any improvement, a just compensation, and charging upon those benefited a reasonable assessment, to be ascertained in such manner, as shall be agreed upon by the parties, or by a jury of twelve men, to be organized in such manner, as, by ordinance, the said council may provide; They shall have power to prevent and abate nuisances, to order and compel the owners or occupants of lots, upon which pools of water are, or are likely to accumulate, to fill them up, to regulate and compel persons by ordinances or otherwise, to erect and keep in repair partition fences; and may pass all laws and ordinances that may be necessary to preserve the public health-They shall have authority to guard against the introduction of infectious or malignant diseases, and for this purpose, may prohibit or regulate the ingress, or approach of vessels into the waters within the limits of said corporation, and whenever necessary, may compel them under fixed and certain penalties to perform quarantine, and observe such other rules and regulations, as to the said Council may seem proper by ordinance to establish. They may construct wharves, keys, and docks, and regulate wharfage, dockage, and mooring and anchoring vessels, erect bridges and ferries and establish the rates of ferriage and tolls; They may erect all necessary public buildings, and dispose of the same as the interests of the town may require; and make and sink wells, erect pumps, dry drains, and do and perform all such other act or acts, as shall seem necessary, and be best adapted to the improvement and general interests of the town, and pass all necessary laws to guard against fires, and to ensure the sweeping of chimneys; they may establish and regulate markets, and require all persons bringing fresh provisions into the town, to exhibit them for sale at proper market hours, establish and regulate the weight and assize of bread, the inspection of provisions and other produce, being the growth or manufacture of the Territory, that may be brought in said town for sale, or which may be sent from it; the gauging of liquors, the measuring or weighing of any articles of produce or merchandise, and the storing of gunpowder; and all naval and military stores, not the property of the United States. They shall have the power to tax auctioneers, and license and tax retailers of goods, and liquors, hawkers, peddlers, tavern and public boarding house keepers, hackney carriages, carts and drays; restrain lotteries, tippling houses, gaming houses, houses of ill fame, and theatrical or other public exhibitions, suppress riots and disorderly assemblies, and may provide for the punishment of all persons guilty of breaches of the peace, within the limits of said town, by fine and imprisonment; Provided the fine shall in no case exceed five dollars and the imprisonment five days. Sec. 4. Be it further enacted, That the said Town-council shall further have the power and authority to provide by tax, or otherwise, a fund for the support of the poor, the infirm, the diseased and insane; to establish public schools and provide for their maintenance, and to
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72 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA organize patrols, and provide for the punishment of negroes and persons of color. Sec. 5. Be it further enacted, That the said Council shall have the power to assess, levy, and enforce the collection of all taxes, and other impositions, as may be necessary for the support of the government of said Town, and the improvements thereof-Provided, that no higher rate of tax shall be levied upon real estate than one half of one per cent on the assessed value thereof, to be determined by assessors chosen in such manner as said council may provide, and the said taxes to be collected by distress and sale, after default shall be made in the payment thereof, in the most convenient and least expensive way, as to the said mayor and aldermen shall be deemed expedient-and the said council shall have power further to provide for the trial of all offenses that may arise under the ordinance of said town, and shall enforce the collection of all fines and penalties that may arise as aforesaid, in such manner as said council by ordinance may provide. Sec. 6. Be it further enacted, That it shall be the duty of the mayor to see that the ordinances of the town are faithfully executed, recommend for appointment all necessary town officers and report and cause their removal, whenever by negligence or misconduct the interests of the town may require it-he shall preside at all meetings of the board, and propose such measures as he shall think important to the public interest, but shall only be entitled to a casting vote, and shall have power to convene the board whenever it may be deemed necessary-he shall have, possess, exercise and enjoy all the powers, duties and privileges and receive the same compensation as a justice of the peace. Sec. 7. Be it further enacted, That the mayor and two aldermen shall form a quorum for the transaction of all business; they may compel the attendance of their absent members, under such pains and penalties as by the rules may be prescribed; judge of the qualification of members, and of the sufficiency, correctness, or regularity of election returns; settle their own rules of proceeding, and upon the recommendation of the mayor, appoint and remove all officers, and fix their compensation, and establish such fees as may or ought to be allowed for such services, as may be required of them-their meetings shall be public, and they shall cause a journal of their proceedings to be kept and regularly authenticated by the signatures of the mayor and clerk, which shall be kept open for the inspection of all who may be interested in the proceedings of said council: The ayes and noes upon any question, shall be entered upon their journals upon a call of any two members-they shall make public all their ordinances and resolutions, before they shall have force and efficacy, by posting written copies thereof in two or more public places in said town. Sec. 8. Be it further enacted, That all white male inhabitants of the age of twenty one years and over, who shall have resided within the said town, at last one month immediately preceding the day of
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 73 election, shall be entitled to vote for mayor and aldermen, they being citizens of the United States-All votes shall be given by ballot. Sec. 9. Be it further enacted, That the elections shall be conducted by three inspectors, to be appointed at least two weeks before the day of election, by the mayor; the said mayor shall also appoint the place of holding the said election, and give public notice thereof for the like period of time. Sec. 10. Be it further enacted, That the said inspectors shall be judges of the qualifications of voters; and it shall be the duty of them, or any two of them, on the day appointed by law for holding the elections, to open the poll for the reception of votes, and to cause the names of voters to be recorded in a book to be kept for that purpose, which shall be deposited at the close of election amongst the archives of the corporation; the polls shall open at nine o'clock in the morning, and close at five o'clock in the afternoon, after which the inspectors shall proceed to count the votes, and declare the persons elected, as mayor and aldermen, and make out a written certificate thereof, at the foot of the poll list, and deliver a copy to the mayor elect, who, upon receipt thereof, shall signify his acceptance or refusal. Sec. 11. Be it further enacted, That if the said mayor elect shall signify his acceptance of said office, the former mayor shall as soon as practicable, at any time within five days, assemble the board, and in their presence, administer to him the following oath: "I, A. B. do solemnly swear, or affirm, that I will to the utmost of my power support, advance and defend the interests, peace and good order of the town of Jacksonville, and faithfully discharge the duties of mayor of said Town, during my continuance in office; and I do further swear, that I will support the Constitution of the United States"; and the Mayor elect, upon being thus qualified, shall then administer the like oath to the aldermen elect, and thereupon the duties of the former board shall cease. Sec. 12. Be it further enacted, That if the Mayor elect, or any of the Aldermen, shall decline to accept the office to which he or they may have been elected, or if accepting any or either of them, shall not qualify, by taking the prescribed oaths, within five days, that then the Mayor in office, or any person exercising the duties thereof, shall by proclamation, direct an election to be held for supplying such seats in the board as may be vacant, giving at least one week's notice thereof, designating at the same time, the persons appointed to superintend and conduct said election. Sec. 13. Be it further enacted, That if the office of Mayor, or any Alderman, shall at any time become vacant, by death, resignation, removal, or otherwise, it shall be the duty of the Mayor, or the person exercising the duties of mayor, agreeably to this act, in like manner as is provided in the preceding section, to order a new election to fill such vacancy or vacancies. Sec. 14. Be it further enacted, That Isaiah D. Hart, John L. Doggett, and Henry H. Burritt, be and they, or any two of them, are
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74 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA hereby appointed inspectors to superintend the election for Mayor and Councilmen, on the first Monday in April, 1832: Provided, that nothing hereby enacted shall be construed to exclude the legislature of this Territory from the right to repeal, alter, or modify this act as it may deem proper. Passed Feb. 9, 1832. Approved Feb. 11, 1832. The town limits were greatly enlarged by the charter. Jacksonville now embraced the territory between Hogans and McCoys Creeks south of about Church Street. The election was held in accordance with the provisions of the charter and William J. Mills was elected mayor; he was therefore the first mayor of Jacksonville. Jacksonville was the ninth town incorporated in Florida. Those previously chartered were: St. Augustine, Pensacola, Fernandina, Key West, Quincy, Magnolia, Apalachicola, and Ochesee.b 1832-1835 During the period between the incorporation of Jacksonville (1832) and the outbreak of the Seminole war (1835) the village increased in population, almost doubling in size. In 1834 plans were laid for a railroad from Jacksonville to Tallahassee, later to be extended to the gulf coast. The company organized as the Florida Peninsular & Jacksonville Railroad Company, and among the directors were J. B. Lancaster, I. D. Hart, W. J. Mills, F. Bethune, and Stephen Eddy all of Jacksonville. The capital was limited to $1,000,000,c a sum almost unheard of in that day, yet these men were in earnest about the matter. In 1835, the Bank of Jacksonville was incorporated with a capital of $75,000,b though it did not open until 1837. In January, 1835, Lorenzo Currier, of Boston, published the first issue of the Jacksonville Courier, an ably edited weekly newspaper There is a record that S. L. Burritt & Co. embarked about this time in a wholesale trade with Cuba and thereby laid the foundation for Jacksonville's claim to the wholesale distributing center of Florida. They shipped lumber, barrelled fish and other goods to Cuba and brought back sugar, coffee, rum, molasses, salt, cigars, fruit, etc. This firm brought in on one occasion a vessel load of sugar, the first
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 75 cargo of sugar ever brought here, and greatly overstocked the market in all this part of the country.a Jacksonville in 1835 was probably a place of 250 people, far too small in itself to warrant the establishment of a bank and a newspaper, or even to think about building a million dollar railroad; but settled all around, both up and down the river, were men wealthy for that day, who transacted their commercial and legal business here, and it was their support as well as the progressive spirit of the citizens of Jacksonville that inspired these important measures. They were drawn into the whirl of enthusiasm and speculation that was sweeping the country about that time and which ended in the panic of 1837-40. Great Freeze of 1835 February 8, 1835, was the coldest day ever known, before or since, in this section. At 8 o'clock that morning the thermometer stood at 8 degrees above zero, Fahrenheit, and the actual minimum was undoubtedly lower. Along the river bank the water was frozen several rods from the shore and afforded the inhabitants a spectacle as new as it was distressing. Fruit trees of every description were destroyed, roots and all, and even some of the forest trees were killed by the cold. This freeze is the basis for all subsequent comparisons.' Bibliography, Chapter VI a'Webb's History of Florida; bActs of Territorial Council; cJacksonville Tri-weekly Sun, Feb. 19, 1876; dCopies are still in existence; eRecords in possession of Weather Bureau.
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76 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER VII THE SEMINOLE WAR PERIODC *Gradually the Seminoles were driven southward in advance of the white man as settlement in the peninsula of Florida increased. Finally the desire arose to get rid of the Seminoles altogether and they were enticed into an agreement to emigrate to the West and occupy lands in what is now Indian Territory. Some of the chiefs, among them the famous Osceola, did not enter into this agreement to emigrate, and when the time came for them to go they refused. The attempt to force the removal brought on the Seminole war, which developed into the longest and most disastrous Indian war in the history of the United States. In the summer of 1835, it was known that the Indians were on the verge of outbreak, but every one thought the war would be of short duration and after a few skirmishes the Indians would be so badly punished they would be glad to emigrate to the West. A prolonged war was simply out of the question from the view-point of the whites. Planters went about their farm operations as usual and trade with the interior continued unabated. In the fall there were ominous mutterings of coming trouble, still the popular belief was that it would not last long. Short-time volunteers were called for to frighten the Indians into agreeing to emigrate. The war opened December 29, 1835, when Osceola and twenty followers shot and killed General Wiley Thompson and others at Fort King, now Ocala, and Major Dade's command was massacred in Sumter County, near the present town of Bushnell, two separate events on the same day. The news of these disasters spread through the country like wildfire. People everywhere in the interior abandoned their homes and collected in the towns for protection. Many of them came to Black Creek and on to Jacksonville. Trade with the interior gradually ceased, and although it was expected that hostilities would be confined to the middle portion of the peninsula, the stoppage of trade with the interior, a large portion of which was handled through Jacksonville, was perceptibly felt in business circles here.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 77 The Block House The Governor of Florida issued a proclamation to the people advising them to build block houses in every community, as a means of protection against the Indians. One was built in Jacksonville, probably in 1836, at the northeast corner of Ocean and Monroe Streets. This structure was one of the famous buildings here and is mentioned in nearly every account of the early town. It was a structure of logsa large square room raised high above the ground on a pedestal-like base. It was entered through a door in the floor, by means of a ladder. In the event of attack, the ladder could be drawn up and the opening closed. Portholes were provided on all sides, and also in the floor, through which to shoot. The object of the overhanging construction was to prevent its being set on fire, since in trying to fire the house an Indian could be shot from overhead. The block house stood at what was then the frontier of the town. All north and west of it was barren waste. Every rumor of Indians in this section caused the timid residents to seek its protection at dark. Sentries did guard duty at night and "many an amusing scene could they relate, caused by the electric imagination of the weak-nerved when it came their turn to go on post".b During its fifteen years of existence the block house served the community well, first as a fort and then as a place for holding religious services. Jacksonville was a supply depot during the war, subcommissary to the chief post at Middleburg. The government built a long one-story wooden building on the south side of Bay Street, between Main and Laura, near Laura, as a storage for supplies. This was popularly called the "government building". It was built high above the marsh-for that region was then nothing more than marsh land, and along the Bay Street side a raised sidewalk furnished an entrance. This building stood for many years. Attacks by the Indians In the summer of 1836, roving bands of Indians attacked and destroyed several plantations along the lower St. Johns, among them those of Colonel Hallowes and Mr. Travers. They also appeared here and there in Western Florida, between the Suwanee River and Tallahassee. The settlements in the Black Creek country and on the east side of the St.
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78 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Johns above Jacksonville had, many of them, been broken up, although a few planters who had been kind to the Seminoles, remained on their farms and were never molested. On September 15, 1836, a band of Indians attacked the house of a Mr. Higginbotham seven miles west of Jacksonville, but they were driven off by members of the household, who barricaded themselves in the house and fired at the Indians. After the Indians left, Mr. Higginbotham rode post-haste to Jacksonville to give the alarm, and Major Hart and twelve men immediately went in pursuit. Major Hart's party found all well at the Higginbotham home and pushed on down the trail toward the Tallahassee road. When they reached the Fleming Johns farm they found the house a heap of smoking ruins in which were the charred remains of Mr. Johns. Several miles farther on, at Mr. Sparkman's, they found Mrs. Johns, severely wounded, but still alive. Mr. and Mrs. Johns were attacked at 10 o'clock in the forenoon, while they were in the yard of their home, and although Mr. Johns was shot through the chest, both he and his wife managed to reach the house and close the door. The Indians broke open the door and shot Mr. Johns dead. They dragged his wife to the door and told her to go, but at that moment an Indian shot her through the arm and neck. She fell through the doorway, but they dragged her back into the house and with a large butcher knife scalped her. They then plundered the house and set fire to it. Mrs. Johns, though greatly weakened from loss of blood, managed to crawl out of the burning house after the Indians left. Fainting from weakness at frequent intervals, she at last reached a nearby swamp, got some water, and lay down to die. Here searchers found her at 2 p. m. They took her on a horse and conveyed her to a neighbor's, Mr. Sparkman's, several miles away. She was later removed to Jacksonville and placed in a comfortable boarding house, where medical attendance and humane attention soon relieved her of much of her physical suffering and she finally recovered.c An Englishman persuaded Mrs. Johns to go to Washington to apply for a pension. Her likeness was taken and hung in the capitol. She was afterward exhibited, but the Englishman ran off with the money. Mrs. Johns then returned to Savannah where she married a man named Mathas. Some years later Mathas was stabbed by a crazy man and died in
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 79 Savannah. Mrs. Mathas returned to Florida and died here in 1874.d The year 1836 closed with the Indians holding their own everywhere. They overran the country, killing express riders, attacking wagon trains, and burning farm houses, and as a result no operations, except those of a military nature, were carried on in the country districts. The comparatively extensive trade that Jacksonville had enjoyed with the interior was entirely destroyed, and on account of the public unrest such enterprises as were contemplated were abandoned. Instead of being a small affair that would terminate with a display of force and a few volleys from the troops, the war wore on for seven years. As time went by, however, the field of operations receded from this section and went farther and farther southward. Panic of 1837 In 1830, there began an era of extravagant speculation and reckless enterprise in the United States. Population was increasing and production was increasing even faster than population. As the means of communication between producer and consumer were decidedly inadequate, a universal need was felt for transportation facilities that would insure quick delivery at moderate prices. The popular demand for railroad and canal construction became so great that conservatism and good judgment were swept aside. States, cities, and towns all over the country were drawn into the whirl of enthusiasm, and many of them made large bond issues to carry on the work of construction. Naturally business in all lines became inflated, and when such is the case a crisis is inevitable. An over production in the cotton crop of 1836 caused a drop in prices and hastened the panic that had its beginning in 1837. During the hard times that followed many of the States had to resort to extraordinary measures to pay the interest on their debts, and some actually repudiated their debts and refused to pay. The States had issued bonds in the aid of the construction of railroads and canals, and in the South especially subscribed to bank stock for the purchase of which they also issued bonds. Therefore, many bank failures occurred when the crash came.e Florida had a better excuse for repudiating her debts than the other States, as the disastrous Indian war, which was
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80 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA still going on, had cleaned out her treasury. Jacksonville had experienced the inflation and she was feeling the result. The ambitious enterprises that had been planned were abandoned. There was, though, another side to it for Jacksonville. Besides the army officers and troops that came to the State, the war drew many people here, desirable citizens and adventurers alike, for there is something about a new country like Florida was at that time, that lures people. The adventurers did not settle and left when peace was at last restored, while a number of good people stayed and made this their permanent home. The effects of the panic gradually wore away and the zone of hostilities receded until the town returned to almost normal business conditions, despite the fact that roving bands of Indians still made an occasional attack upon some outlying settlement. Trade with nearby points was resumed and gradually extended to the interior. Some light is thrown upon the conditions in this section in letters from Mandarin about this period; the following are excerpts:f Mandarin, March 13, 1839. * * * But I must broach the all absorbing, all exciting theme-the mulberry. I thought when at New York I had made a good contract, but it has proved far otherwise, for I found much to my surprise that the fever was raging higher here than at Hartford or New York, for not only had some of the mulberry planters returned from travelling at the North, but several Northern men had come here to buy mulberry and plant here to avail themselves of our climate; so instead of finding plenty of opportunities for buying cheap, as I had every reason to expect, I found only buyers riding through the country in search of it. This was a double disappointment, for in the first place I had formed a plan * * * to purchase up all the mulberry in my neighborhood as soon as I arrived and with my own take it to New York and make quite a speculation with it * * *. I have barely time to say that I have sold what I could spare and reserved enough to make a great number this season, but such was my fear that something might occur to reduce the price * * * that I sold them too soon and did not get more than half as much as I might soon after, for such is the rage for planting that they have risen to the enormous price of 3 cents an eye for cuttings. The Davenports have shipped a great quantity. One lot of trees at St. Augustine sold for $50,000. Mandarin, July 10, 1840. * * * The unaccountable or rather abominable circumstances of the war, keeping me out of the possession of my place and the total failure of the mulberry market, deprives me of all resources for the present.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 81 * * * Neither can I do anything at improving my orange grove without exposing myself to danger, for Indians are bolder than ever. They have dispersed themselves into small parties and prowl about like wild beasts. They have committed murders near us upon the public roads that have been travelled in safety until this season and the prospect never has been darker than the present for its termination. There is no way to account for this state of things, but by the political condition of our country, being on the eve of a presidential election. * * * (Near) Mandarin, Jan'y. 1, 1842. ** You will doubtless think I had some cause for melancholy reflections when I tell you that I was but little better than a guard for protection-the Indians came into the very neighborhood of Mandarin, murdered one family and plundered and burnt out three, and that I had just gotten settled at my place again after spending 2 or 3 months' time and some money. This is the third time I have been obliged to abandon my place and sacrifice time, money, and everything but my life. * * * In all former wars with the Indians they never were known to come into Mandarin settlement before. And during this war of more than six years they never have come nearer than Julington Creek (to my neighbor, Mott, adjoining me); therefore at this late period when this part of the country had been so long quiet the inhabitants of Mandarin thought no more of Indians than if there were none in the Territory, but now their fears are as great or greater than at any time since the war broke out. It had been long reported and was generally believed that the troops had gotten almost all the Indians out of the Territory and that the war would soon be terminated. But alas! we have just experienced another cruel disappointment and there is no more security or prospect for its termination than at its commencement. * * * I have barely room to say that the creeping, skulking Indians never would have ventured into Mandarin settlement but that there are no troops within 100 miles (20 or 30 except); they were all taken south in pursuit of Sam Jones and his warriors. I hear that troops are on their way to be stationed near us for our protection. If so I may return to my place, for all that return to reoccupy their places are now furnished with provisions till the next crop season. * * * Bibliography, Chapter VII aSee histories of Sprague, Williams, and Coe in relation to the Seminole war; bHistory of Florida, Webb; cTerritory of Florida, Williams; dNewspaper account written by nephew of Mrs. Mathas; Ienternational Encyclopedia, see "Crisis", "Repu. diation," etc.; fLetters of J. P. Belknap in possession of M. A. Brown of Jacksonville.
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82 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER VIII IN THE FORTIES With the ending of the Seminole war and the recovery of the country from the hard times following the panic Jacksonville's growth became more pronounced. In 1842 the population was 450 and in 1847 it was 750,a an increase in five years of 67%. Though much smaller in population than St. Augustine, Jacksonville had by this time come to be considered the most important town in East Florida, on account of its location with respect to marketing the principal revenue-producing commodity of the time-cotton. Cotton was grown extensively on the plantations of this section and it was brought to Jacksonville and shipped from this point by sailing vessel. A considerable amount of timber was also shipped from here.b Thus Jacksonville grew to be the trading point for a large surrounding territory. Steamer communication with Savannah was more or less regular on a weekly schedule bringing the mail, and a steamboat made weekly trips up the river as far as Enterprise. These boats were small, but they marked the beginning of a most important transportation facility for Jacksonville, which later on contributed largely to its growth. Local Conditions in the Early 1840's The dwellings here were mostly one story wooden structures of rough boards as there were no planing mills then Many of them were unplastered. Stoves had not come into use; the fireplace was the only means of heating and this was looked upon as a luxury for the well-to-do. The stores were rough buildings with rude fittings. The ordinary necessities could be purchased in the town; most of the stores carried general stocks,c and from the rear of many of them came that unmistakable odor that permeates the air where whiskey kegs are kept. The stores usually closed at dusk; the stillness of the town at night after 9 o'clock, the curfew hour, signified that Jacksonville had gone to bed.d There was an event known to have occurred in the early 1840's that must have shaken the community with excitement.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 83 The Pelot-Babcock Duel This was a fatal duel between two citizens that had been the best of friends. They had been drinking and during a game of billiards a controversy arose and the lie was passed. In that day to call a man a liar was equivalent to a challenge, and this case was not an exception. The principals were Dr. Pelot and Mr. Babcock, both residents of Jacksonville. Rifles were agreed upon as the weapons, the duel to be fought at 100 paces. Amelia Island was chosen as the place. For ten days the principals practiced for the affair. They met at the appointed time and place. The day was raw and very cold. The paces were stepped off and each principal received his instructions. At the word both fired simultaneously. Pelot fell, shot through the stomach, the ball severing the spine; he died shortly afterward. Dr. Henry D. Holland of Jacksonville was Dr. Pelot's second. Babcock went to New Orleans where, in utter grief, he drank himself to death. *The code of ethics under which men lived in those days was undoubtedly wrong in some respects, but certainly not in all. Much of it was founded upon the principle of morality in the truest sense. It was an honor system backed by public sentiment, without which no law is effective. Drinking was their sin. This incident in the life of the early town was of the nature to be perpetuated in the memory of the citizens, and the succeeding generation became familiar with the circumstances through hearsay. The account here given was written by a citizen of Jacksonville at the time. First Bulkhead During a gale in October, 1846, the water from the river was backed up by the wind until it reached across Forsyth Street; water stood in the stores on Bay Street two feet deep. The brig "Virginia", owned by Capt. Willey, dragged her anchors and was driven from the foot of Market Street into Ocean Street, her bowsprit extending across Bay. This led two years later to the bulkheading and straightening of the river front from Ocean to what is now Main Street. Hewn logs were laid one upon the other and fastened together by staples and chains. It was called a "buttment" and served the purpose for a long time. t
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Map of 1847 The map of Jacksonville of 1847 was drawn by N. R. Child, probably early in that year. The original was in the poasession of Dr. A. S. Baldwin and a reproduction of it was published in the Times-Union; the copy here published is based on the reproduction. The names of some of Jacksonville's residents appear on the map and are here represented by the numbers corresponding to the following: 8 Judge Daniel 17 I. 0. O. F. Lodge 26 Col. Hart 35 Burritt 9 Poinsett 18 Hart's Office 27 Reed 86 Burt 10 Col. Lancaster 19 Holmes 28 Anderson 37 Capt. L'Engle 11 McQuen 20 Kipp 29 Douglas 38 Holmes' store 12 Capt. Congar 21 Barbee 30 M. R. C. 39 Capt. Willey 13 Duval 22 Holland 31 Judge Crabtree 40 Wharf 14 Livingston 23 Goff 32 Dorman 41 Kipp's shop 15 Fennimore 24 Court House 33 Dr. Baldwin 16 Mr. Jack 25 Davids 34 Frazer
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86 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Newspapers and Politics With the exception of 1841-2, Jacksonville had a weekly newspaper during nearly all of this period, and after 1848, there were two here. In the winter of 1842-3, George M. Grouard, of Washington, D. C., established the Tropical Plant; he published the paper until 1845. I. D. Hart, who was running for (probably a State) office at the time, started what he called the "Florida Whig and People's Advocate" in the interest of his candidacy-he was a Whig. This paper became defunct in about 30 days. In the fall of 1845, the News was moved from St. Augustine to Jacksonville and published by A. C. Gillett and A. B. Hazzard; it was Democratic in politics. In 1848, the Florida Republican was established with Columbus Drew as editor. At this time national politics and policies were undergoing an upheaval and the two local papers were frequently engaged in a spicy newspaper war in the interest of their respective parties. They did not print much local news and often used a considerable amount of "clipped" matter; yet it is remarkable that Jacksonville with a population less than a thousand should offer inducements for the support of two good newspapers. First Epidemic In 1849, an epidemic of what was called "Broken-bone Fever" started in Jacksonville. It was so general that in many families all members of the household were sick at the same time. Fortunately the epidemic was of short duration and no deaths occurred as a result of the visitation. This was probably a mild form of what is now called dengue. Jacksonville passed through this period 1840-1850 without any serious set-backs to its growth and advanced its position from a village to that of a small town. In the latter half of the decade the timber business began to come forward as a large industry, which developed into a relatively enormous lumber business in the 1850's.f Bibliography, Chapter VI sColumbus Drew: bNewspapers of the period; cFlorids Union. March. 1881; dindlcated in early accounts; e S. Farrar; f"Recollection."
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JACKSONVILLE IN THE EARLY 1850's I[ DWELL/N/V S; U SrTO,;ES' PUfBL/CIzDC:s; B o, IvD/Av Is ,r , R/. CA T/cOLI IETHOD/ST _PlSCOPAL ;l^1 C H E E .JD V AL ST a' , Tf A'/ * , l PEAR SO _ .. g r onrw s ,' |I | o / / E .r 1 0/ST E ] PI7sSB YHTF'Ao I" r o j Ji9 5 o ' }T^^ dDt ^^a .,e, f l fnOL * P/ Et,*. A D ., r /Ms I /5 5 K J [1":' I ** Im.. . gA IL *-DO-/'TALDSoA -D e__ ". 5T 0,/sH V/VE/T' C oB -/V Between Duval and Church Streets near Pine (now Main) was a pond where the spoltsThe business district was Bay Street between Newnan and Ocean. It was a pastime tu men of Jacksonville used to shoot ducks. The drainage was down Pine Street to the river, stand in the rear doors of the stores on the south side of Bay Street and practice marksand south of Adams Street was a quagmire. Wooden bridges were built across Pine Street manship with rifle and pistol upon the alligators that came out to sun themselves on the at Forsyth and at Bay. banks of the St. Johns. DO.,VA L D -DENVEED.O H AA(S O KE 1Rd 0 810Y [3 y 1rC QHART D ~D /7~9~ ~ RBANT RI13T ~ COOPER HARRIS C 0 0 AVAIAYS -A l lop IT O OJOIIA/5S *3 K fQ/ 'C~ III p 6 Cn o ~ aP DOTCE61 O EM6L · ~ .~· WILL Between Duval and Church Streets near Pine (now Main) was a pond where the sportsThe business district was Bay Str-eet between Newnan and Ocean. It was a pastime, ~u men of Jacksonville used to shoot ducks. The drainage was down Pine Street to the river, stand in the rear doors of the stores on the south side of Bay Street and practice marksand south of Adams Street was a quagmire. Wooden bridges were built across Pine Street manship with rifle and pistol upon the alligators that came out to sun themselves on the at Forsyth and at Bay. banks of the St. Johns.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 87 CHAPTER IX JACKSONVILLE IN THE EARLY FIFTIES The built-up portion of the town was bounded by Washington Street on the east, Laura on the west, Duval on the north, and the river on the south. Bay Street, South Side There were neither wharves nor stores on the south side of Bay Street between Ocean and Laura, except a long onestory, wooden building near Laura, called the "government building", built by the United States government during the Seminole Indian war as a commissary for supplies. Just west of Pine (Main), on the river front stood a saw mill operated by J. B. Barbee. Fire destroyed it at an early date, consuming with it a human being, one of the sorrowful events of those early times. Across Ocean Street on the south side of Bay, east, Thomas Ledwith had a store and a wharf; he was succeeded by Alsop & Bours. Several other stores occupied this block, among them Gunby & Fernandez, later Fernandez & Bisbee, and later still Bisbee & Canova. East of this store was that of S. N. Williams, and near the corner of Newnan was McRory's book store. The first brick building built in Jacksonville adjoined the Ledwith store and was occupied by C. D. Oak, jeweler and watchmaker; this was about 1850. A building stood on the southeast corner of Newnan and Bay and was occupied from the earliest times, by different parties. Finegan & Belchasse are among the first recalled; later Dr. T. Hartridge. Next to this store was that of Bellows; then Santo. Next to Santo was Morris Keil, a small store, tailoring done by husband and the store kept by the wife. Captain Charles Willey had a dwelling on the corner of Market, and a wharf from which he ran a line of sailing vessels to Charleston and another to Key West. These names are remembered in connection with this dwelling: Mrs. Libby, mother of Mrs. Willey; Frances Yale, daughter of Captain Willey. Afterward Columbus Drew, Sr., occupied this house and issued from here a Whig paper called the "Republican".
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88 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA At the foot of Market Street a fish market stood over the water. This was the first market in the town. East of Market Street the entire block was vacant. At the foot of Liberty Street there was a ferry to cross the river, operated to connect with the road to St. Augustine. A garrison was kept at Fort Marion at that time and cattle were forded at this ferry and driven to St. Augustine to furnish beef for the soldiers. Lighters conveyed passengers, vehicles, and freight across. The block east of Liberty Street contained a fine grove of trees. Public, out-of-door functions, such as barbecues, Fourth of July celebrations, etc., were generally held here. There was only one small building on the block-a carpenter's shop near the water's edge. East of Washington Street, the river bank was very much higher, affording a steep sand hill that the children of the neighborhood used as an amusement place, rolling and jumping in the soft, white sand. Beyond this hill E. A. DeCottes had a dwelling, and on the corner of Bay and Catherine, Stephen Vandergrift and family lived. The next block was vacant, except a small machine shop near the middle of the block. John Clark's sawmill was near Hogans Creek. Finegan's sawmill was on the river front on the east side of the creek, and his family resided there, including Constantia, Dora, and Martha Travis, daughters of Mrs. Finegan by a former marriage. Bay Street, North Side On the north side of Bay Street, westward from Hogans Creek to Catherine Street was a corn field until the early 1850's, when a grist mill was built near the creek. From Catherine to Washington was unoccupied until Tony Canova built a residence at the northeast corner of Washington. At the northwest corner of Washington Street stood the Merrick House, famous as the "haunted house". Peculiar noises were often heard within, yet no ghosts appeared. Some of the less superstitious said there was an underground river at that point that caused the noises. All was vacant thence to Liberty Street until 1851 or 1852, when J. C. Hemming built a residence on the northeast corner of Liberty. A store house stood on the northwest corner of Bay and Liberty Streets, used for storing freight awaiting ferriage
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 89 across the river, and later as a school house. The Burritt homestead stood near the northeast corner of Bay and Market, and it was the most pretentious house in the town. There were large grounds, with stables, servants' quarters, and Mr. Burritt's law offices. The vacant lot on the river front, also Burritt property, abounding in shrubbery and shade trees, gave beautiful surroundings. At the northwest corner of Bay and Market Streets, I. D. Hart owned a boarding house, which was kept successively by Mrs. Hatch, Mrs. Flotard, Mrs. Maxey, and Mrs. Taylor, the ownership passing to Mrs. Taylor's daughter, Mrs. Hedrick, in 1853. West of this building was inclosed, but unoccupied-owned by Mrs. Philip Frazer, inherited from her first husband, Captain Zeb Willey. Dr. Byrne built two stores between this inclosure and the corner, probably in 1852. Across Newnan Street, the entire block to Ocean was occupied by business houses. On the northwest corner of Newnan and Bay, names not remembered until occupied by Paul Canova. Next to the corner was the firm of Miller & Blackwood, wines and liquors; thence west in order were: Dr. Foreman, general merchandise, afterward Gunby; Barnard & Farrar, general store, later Moss & Ambler, later still, Ambler & Hoeg; Rosenthal, the first Hebrew merchant in town; Goff, tailor; and on the corner of Ocean, Mr. Cutter, afterward Morris Keil. Th 9 three last stores were owned by Thomas W. Jones. On the northwest corner of Ocean and Bay Streets, A. M. Reed had a store-groceries and dry goods. West of this was Calvin Oak, gunsmith. From here to Pine Street was unoccupied, in fact Bay Street was almost impassible at this point. A pond of water north of Duval Street drained downward through Pine Street, making a quagmire at its lower end, over which bridges were built across Pine at Bay and at Forsyth Streets. An attempt was made to improve the approaches to the bridges by laying logs lengthways across the street; this "corduroy" construction was very rough. Across Pine Street Dr. Baldwin owned two lots, the corner being a garden very much in need of drainage. Dr. Baldwin's dwelling was on the next lot; also his office. West of that was a dwelling occupied successively by A. M. Reed, Walter Kipp, Mrs. Herbert, Captain L'Engle, George Powers, and finally
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90 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA by Judge Rodney Dorman. Cyrus Bisbee owned a dwelling on the northeast corner of Bay and Laura, where he lived many years. This was the western boundary of the town for a long time. Later Mr. Kipp built a residence on the northwest corner of Bay and Laura. Captain L'Engle then lived close to the river across from the Kipps. Beyond Laura Street there was nothing more until a small creek was crossed where Julia Street is now. Mr. Boulter owned a mill and a dwelling on the west side of this creek; the mill was burned, and -the dwelling was afterward occupied by Hal Sadler. Thence to McCoys Creek everything was woods. A rude bridge crossed McCoys Creek near the foot of the present Broad Street, and to the west of this bridge, on the creek was a small house occupied by the Curry family. Across the creek was P. Moody's saw mill and dwelling, and beyond was the Lancaster place, called "Lancaster's Point". Then the plantation of Elias Jaudon, and across McGirts Creek, now Ortega, was the Sadler plantation. Forsyth Street, South Side At the southeast corner of Laura and Forsyth, I. D. Hart lived in a large two-story house. Thence to Pine Street was vacant, until Dr. Foreman built on the corner of Pine. The southeast corner of Pine and Forsyth was owned by the Douglas and Reed families. Stables occupied the corner, with a garden beyond, and a dwelling on the corner of Forsyth and Ocean, where A. M. Reed lived, then Thomas Douglas. On the southeast corner of Forsyth and Ocean was a very old dwelling, known as the Mills house; it was occupied by different families, among others, Mrs. Bowman, and then J. W. Bryant. Between Forsyth and Bay, on Ocean Street, Thomas W. Jones and family lived on the east side of the street. Next to the Mills house, east on Forsyth, William Douglas lived as early as 1847, and afterward a Ross family. This yard was large and here, under a tent, a traveling daguerreotypist took some fine pictures. This was probably the first artist to come to Jacksonville. Captain Armstrong lived on the southwest corner of Forsyth and Newman; he had no family. Between Forsyth and Bay on Newnan there were a few small shops. On the west side were: Captain
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 91 John Middleton, small store; Dr. Rex, an office; and Henry Houston, colored, barber shop. On the opposite side of the street was a large building used for offices. On the southeast corner of Forsyth and Newnan, Judge J. C. Cooper lived. East of this was the Zeb Willey property, known afterward as the Philip Frazer house. Dr. J. D. Mitchell bought here later. Then Mr. Harrison built on the southwest corner of Forsyth and Market, where the law exchange now stands. Across Market Street were S. L. Burritt's office and grounds, occupying half the block. The Doggett family owned the other, or east half of this block, on which were two houses. The Doggett residence was near the southwest corner of Forsyth and Liberty. In the middle of the block between Liberty and Washington, the Watermans lived, afterward the Hickmans, and later Dr. Murdock. This was one of the oldest houses in the town. On the southeast corner of Forsyth and Washington was another old house in which Mr. Adams lived, afterward Mr. Gillett, and later the Mooneys. For a long time nothing but a corn field was east of here to Hogans Creek. Forsyth Street, North Side On the north side of Forsyth Street, west from Hogans Creek, there was nothing to Washington Street, until Felix Livingston built on the northeast corner of Washington about 1850. At the northeast corner of Forsyth and Liberty Streets was a very old house of peculiar construction. The foundation was of stone, perhaps six feet high, and on top of this wall was a one-story wooden structure with a piazza on three sides. It was said it was the abode of a sea captain, a buccaneer, who, being too old to follow the sea, amused himself with a spy-glass watching the river above and below. Dr. Theodore Hartridge built on this corner in 1853, at the same time building a smaller house on the northwest corner of Forsyth and Washington for his mother, Mrs. Hobby. Across Liberty Street Mr. Barbee owned and lived many years. The next lot was owned by John Pons, where also lived his son-in-law, Jack Butler, a lively jovial Irishman so pleasantly remembered by many. A small house west of this was occupied by different ones, the first remembered being
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92 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Mrs. Herbert, a school teacher. On the northeast corner of Forsyth and Market stood the court house, and in the court house yard, back from the street, was the jail. The jail was inclosed by a high brick wall, on top of which was a barbette of broken glass. Across Market Street, on the northwest corner, was the Clerk's Office. Next was the dwelling of Mrs. Maxey. On the northeast corner of Forsyth and Newnan was a small building used by William Grothe as a jewelry shop. The post office was in this building for a long time also. Dr. H. D. Holland's residence was on the opposite corner, stables on the Forsyth Street side and his office on Newnan. A small house stood on the lot west of Dr. Holland's residence, where William Grothe lived, and next to this was a large two-story house occupied at different times by the Barnards, Crabtrees, Gregorys, Allisons, Hearns, Suttons, and Crespos. On the corner was a dwelling house occupied successively by the Kipps, Flotards, Traceys, Hallidays, and Sandersons. On the northwest corner of Forsyth and Ocean Mrs. Dewees lived in a large two-story house, and back of her, between Forsyth and Adams, her daughter, Mrs. Poinsett lived, afterward the Kipps, and later the Keils. There were no other houses on Forsyth to Pine Street. On the northwest corner of Forsyth and Pine was a house occupied by the Donaldsons, later the Thebauts. A small house stood in the middle of the block back from the street, where Jane and Dick, servants of Mrs. Douglas, lived. West of here was a fine grove of trees, where barbecues and celebrations of different kinds were sometimes held. Near the northwest corner of Forsyth and the present Hogan Streets was the site of the old Hogans house. Adams Street, South Side Thomas W. Jones built a two-story dwelling on the southeast corner of Adams and Laura in 1850. In 1851, Judge F. Bethune moved from his plantation a few miles up the river and bought this house for a residence. East of this, in the middle of the block, was the Myers dwelling. The southwest corner of Adams and Pine was vacant many years. The Turknetts lived on the southeast corner of Adams and Pine. A small house, used principally as a servants'
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 93 house, stood on the next lot. There was nothing on the southwest corner until 1854. The southeast corner of Adams and Ocean was vacant a long time, the Crespos later building a boarding house at that point. Two houses owned by Mr. Crespo stood here; the first was burned. In the middle of the block were out-buildings used by the Buffington House, which occupied the southwest corner facing Newnan. Across Newnan, Stephen Fernandez and family lived; afterward Dr. R. P. Daniel. Next was the dwelling of S. N. Williams. There was nothing on the southwest corner of Market for many years. The Odd Fellows owned the southeast corner of Adams and Market, but the lodge building was on the inside of the lot facing Market. The lower story of this building was used as a school room, the upper story for the lodge. The corner was inclosed and was used by the children as a play ground. Thence to the southwest corner of Adams and Washington was vacant; here Mr. Pons built at an early date. There was nothing east of this to Hogans Creek. Adams Street, North Side Returning west on Adams Street there was nothing between Hogans Creek and the northeast corner of Market, where Mr. Fennimore lived. Mrs. Fennimore was the dressmaker for all the belles of that day. Across Market were the Flemings; next Captain William Ross, and on the corner of Newnan was a boarding house. On the northwest corner of Adams and Newnan were the Buffington House stables, afterward converted into a boarding house, called the California House. The weatherboarding on this building was placed up and down-an innovation at that day. Next, the Gibsons, man and wife, lived. An unfortunate mistake disrupted this family. A large boarding house in the town burned and Mr. Gibson was accused of setting it on fire. He was threatened with a coat of tar and feathers unless he left the town. He left and never returned. In later years it developed that a careless servant had placed hot ashes too near the building, causing it to catch on fire. Mr. Congar lived on the northeast corner of Ocean and Adams.
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94 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The Ledwiths lived across from the Congars, on the northwest corner, not quite on the corner, as that was a fine plum orchard. Next to the Ledwiths was a Spanish family by the name of Ximanes, whose income was derived from fishing, and the sale of mocking birds to the northern tourists that came here during the winter. The corner of Pine was not occupied, as the land was low and damp. Monroe Street Columbus Drew, Sr., was really a pioneer when he built his house at the corner of Monroe and Laura in 1851. East of this there were no buildings to the northeast corner of Ocean, the site of the old block house. Here stood a large building used as a hotel, and conducted successively by Mrs. Coy, Creighton, and Mattair. In the opposite block, south side of Monroe Street, inside from the corner, the Presbyterians had a small meeting house, where weekly prayer meetings were held. Judge Lancaster resided on the southwest corner of Monroe and Market, afterwards the Hearns, Suttons, and Garnies. Duval Street The Episcopal church occupied its present site at the head of Market Street. One of the early residences was built at the southeast corner of Duval and Market, and was occupied at different times by J. W. Bryant, Judge Daniel and Judge Pearson. There were two other churches on Duval Street, one near the northeast corner of Newnan, and the other across the street on the northwest corner. Back of this, north, were the homes of the free negroes, mostly west of Ocean Street. These negroes occupied land belonging to I. D. Hart; this quarter was called "Negro Hill". Bibliography, Chapter IX Years ago a number of the oldest residents of Jacksonville at the time used to meet and talk over "old times" and their recollections were promptly written down by the Secretary. This remarkable record was preserved by Mrs. W. M. Bostwick and is included in this chapter.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 95 CHAPTER X 1850-1855 The first attempt to beautify the town was in 1850, when April Saurez, an old slave, under the direction of Dr. A. S. Baldwin and Gen. Thomas Ledwith planted the oaks that lined the streets of Jacksonville before the fire of 1901. These trees grew to be the pride of the city; most of them were destroyed in the fire of 1901. In 1850, the first circular sawmill ever built in East Florida was erected at the mouth of Pottsburg Creek and in the following year John Clark built the second circular sawmill, on East Bay Street, near Hogans Creek. Mr. Clark then added a planing mill, the first in East Florida. About 1853-54 there were five or six sawmills at Jacksonville, and as many more in the immediate vicinity. The lumber industry had grown to be the principal one here. A great quantity of live oak timber was exported annually, for use in the construction of vessels.a Considerable cotton continued to be brought here for shipment also, Jacksonville being the shipping point for quite a large territory tributary to the St. Johns River. These industries put into circulation much money that naturally found its way into all lines of business. Nearly all the merchants were well-to-do, gauged by the standard of that early time. Business was conducted without rancor and with the utmost integrity. Salaries were not what would now be called large, but the cost of living comfortably was within the reach of all-a condition having an important bearing upon the community. Abject poverty was a state unknown and seldom was a door locked or a window closed out of fear of petty thieving. b Relation Between Master and Servant The question of master and slave was seldom referred to. The master considered it his duty to protect those who served him, and the servant felt that he was accountable for his master's social position and other responsibilities. The slaves were treated with a consideration and trust without a parallel at this day. The children loved their colored "mammies", and the mammies felt that they were respon-
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96 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA sible for the obedience of the children, "manners" being held at a premium and duty the first consideration The relation between master and slave differed little from that prevailing in other portions of the South before the war-a sincere and confiding affection on one side, and on the other a kind and considerate regulation of the simple lives reposed in the white owner's care. When an entertainment was given by the colored people, it was not at all unusual for the mistress to lend her jewelry to her maid for the occasion, showing plainly the interest taken in the pleasure of the slaves; and in sickness they were provided for and given the best attention. There were, of course, exceptions in both cases.b This advertisement, appearing in the Florida News, a local newspaper, is interesting, indicating as it does, one method of recovering runaway slaves: Twenty-five Dollars Reward. RUNAWAY in November last my negro woman HANNAH. She is about 5 ft., 7 or 8 inches high, black, no front teeth and about 40 years of age. Hannah has a mother in Newnansville or Tallahassee known by the name of Mary Ann Sanchez, formerly the property of Roman Sanchez of Newnansviile. The above reward will be given upon her being lodged in any jail where I can get her or upon being delivered to me at Palatka or Jacksonville. Louis M. Coxetter. Jacksonville, June 5, 1852. The Tallahassee papers will please copy and send their bills to this office. This same paper contained another item of interest, one that would indicate that the Town Council was composed of citizens serving for the best interest of the community: Proceedings of the Town Council Regular Meeting Council Chamber, August 6, 1852. Council Met:-Present, His Honor, Henry D. Holland, Intendant;t Messrs. Buffington, Cooper, and Canova, Councilmen. Mr. Townsend, elected a Councilman to fill the vacancy created by the resignation of Win. Alsop, appeared for the purpose of taking the oath of office, which was objected to by Councilman Buffington, on the ground of his not possessing the requisite qualifications for the performance of the duties of the office. * * * Attest, F. C. Barrett, Clerk. tMayor.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 97 Transportation Railroads and the telegraph had not yet come to Jacksonville. Steam packets ran to Savannah and Charleston, and sailing vessels communicated with the more distant cities and the West Indies. It was almost as customary to talk about Hayti and Martinique then as it is about New York today.b Communication with the interior of the State was by means of a stage line to Tallahassee and intermediate points. It was a three days' trip, avoided as much as possible, except at court sessions and when the Legislature met. The Central Stage Line ran this advertisement in the Jacksonville paper during the summer of 1852: Central Stage Line From Jacksonville to Tallahassee Semi-Weekly The proprietor takes pleasure in announcing to the public that he has just placed upon the route a new and splendid FOUR HORSE COACH and that he is prepared to convey passengers through in the shortest possible time. He has relays of the best horses at different points, so that no more time is lost than is necessary for their change. The stage leaves Jacksonville every Sunday and Wednesday afternoon, immediately after the arrival of the steamers from Savannah and returns in time to connect with them on their return trips. These steamers connect with others at Savannah for Charleston and New York, thus affording the travelers from the North and others visiting Tallahassee or interior towns of Florida a speedy transit. A coach connects with this line to and from the White Sulphur Springs in Hamilton County. Fernandez, Bisbee & Co., Agents. G. R. Fairbanks describes the stage trip as one of "ups and downs, jolts and bumps; roots lying on the surface, the impact with which would send the unprepared passenger up against the top, or with a painful jerk against the standards. The weary drag during the long, dark nights, for the hacks kept on night and day, was an experience to be long remembered". Smallpox Epidemic Jacksonville experienced an epidemic of smallpox during the summer of 1853. J. W. Bryant, one of the foremost lawyers in the town, contracted the disease at some place in Georgia, where he had gone on legal business. Upon his return, he was taken sick at the Buffington House, then the
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98 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA fashionable hotel of Jacksonville. Numerous friends visited him before the case was diagnosed as smallpox, and therefore the epidemic started among prominent people. Those at the Buffington House were the first to take the disease, and soon afterward sporadic cases began to develop until, finally, the epidemic became general among both white and colored. It was severe and a good many deaths resulted, while those who recovered were in many cases badly pitted. b Local Conditions in the Early Fifties It is said that some of the merchants were extremely fond of playing cards, and even during business hours would gather for a quiet game. Should a customer appear, a sentinel placed on watch would report, "Mr. So-and-so, somebody is going in your store", whereupon the game would be temporarily "called". Whenever children or servants were the purchasers, the storekeeper usually gave them a small present, such as a sweet cracker or a piece of candy; this was called "coontra". It has been impossible to trace the derivation of this word, but the custom doubtless originated from the fact that the money divisions in those days were in fractions of a cent, and the small present was given, rather than to consider the fractions in carrying accounts. The silver dollar was the standard, but it was reckoned eight bits, instead of one hundred cents. There were half bits, 61/4; bits, 12/2; two bits, 25 cents, and so on. If "coontra" was not given to the negroes it was always asked for by them, but the white children were forbidden by their parents to do so, as it was not considered "good manners".b About a third of the houses had glass windows. Stoves had not yet come into general use. The stores on Bay street had no way to heat them and when the weather was cold, fires were built in front in the street; here the citizens would collect, crack jokes, and discuss the questions of the day. The town maintained a small market house with one stall, open in the early morning. Beef sold at 4 to 8 cents and pork at 8 to 10 cents a pound. Fish were brought in boats to the shore near the market, the arrival being announced by ringing the market bell, when the people would rush down to purchase. Milk as a commodity was scarce. Collards and sweet potatoes were the vegetables usually offered for public mle.'c
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 99 There were no soda fountains in those days, and it was seldom that ice could be obtained. Ice was brought from the North in sailing vessels. Lemonade and tamarind water were the most popular "soft" drinks. The tamarind is a species of bean that grows in the West Indies, and from it a sticky substance exudes. The beans were put into a pitcher and hot water poured over them; this concoction was allowed to cool, when the drink was ready for use. It had a semi-acid taste, and was considered very healthful. Drinking water came from wells and cisterns. Rain water, when filtered through an earthen vessel called a "monkey", was considered a great luxury.b In the spring of 1846, Captain John L'Engle bought for $300 the square bounded on the north by Bay Street, east by Laura, west by Hogan, and south by the river. In 1853, the northwest corner lot at Bay and Market Streets, including a two-story boarding house, was purchased for $2,500; and A. Judson Day, of Maine, bought half the block, west half, between Julia and Hogan Streets from Forsyth through to the river for $3,000. A year or so later, the northeast corner of Bay and Ocean was sold to Ambler & Hoeg for $3,000. Residence lots a few blocks back from Bay Street sold for less than $100. Springfield was a wilderness and Riverside a corn field. Northwest of Hemming Park, between Forsyth and Church, Clay and Jefferson Streets was a dense swamp, where in places the water stood several feet deep. LaVilla was an island, owing to the course of several small streams that have since been filled in.t The building material used in Jacksonville at that time was mostly pitch pine, very inflammable, and as there was no adequate way of controlling large fires, it was but a question of time when the town would suffer a general conflagration. It came on April 5, 1854. The Great Fire of 1854 A description of this destructive fire was published on the following day in an "Extra" gotten out by the Florida Republican, a copy of which follows, except that typographical errors have been corrected:'
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100 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA FLORIDA REPUBLICAN, EXTRA. Jacksonville, Florida, April 6,1854. GREAT AND DISASTROUS CONFLAGRATION Jacksonville in Ruins. Seventy Houses Consumed. Loss over $300,000. Two printing offices destroyed. Yesterday at 1 o'clock p. m., the alarm of fire was given in this town and in tour hours afterwards all the business portion of the town was m ruins. 'I he fire originated in S. N. Williams' hay shed, on the wharf, communicated, as is supposed, by a spark from the Charleston steamer "rlorida'. It extended with astonishing rapidity in every direction, spreading first along the block of stores on the south side of Bay street, between Newnan and Ocean streets; thence communicating with the square opposite on the north which was all consumed; thence with the store of A. M. ieed and the Bank agency adjoining on the west side of Ocean street, which were both destroyed; thence with the square east of Newnan street and fronting on Bay, which contained the large and handsome block known as byrne's building; nearly the wnole square being consumed; at the same time with the buildings on Bay street east of the point at which the fire originated, and of Newnan street, which was at once swept away. This was principally the course of and the area which has been devastated by the devouring element. The wind was blowing strongly at the time, and caused the course of the fire, at first, to be to the westward by which several private dwellings at the extreme west end of the town, and several stores, Moody's, Holmes's, and Fairbank's mills, and the new hotel of Messrs. Day, were set on fire, but extinguished before any material damage was sustained. Still, the intense heat from the first block was so great that that of itself ignited the squares on the opposite side, and on the east, and the immense amount of goods thrown from the stores along the whole of Bay street, formed from the same cause an immense conflagration of spirits, oil, paints, etc. By this fire seventy buildings were entirely destroyed. Of these, twenty-three were stores, of the following persons, viz: F. Waver & Co., provisions; C. D. Oak, and Wm. Grothe, jewelers; S. N. Williams, grocer; J. P. Sanderson, dry goods and provisions; Bloodgood & Blouse, do; H. Timanus, do; T. Hartridge, do; J. Mode, dry goods; James Hanham, grocer; Mr. Hernandez, tobacconist; C. DeWaal, auctioneer; L. Capella, fruit store; J. Santo, do; A. M. Reed, dry goods and provisions; M. Keil, do; A. B. Hussey, grocer; Mr. Moore, fruit store; J. L. Hogarth, thinner; Ambler & Hoeg, dry goods and provisions; J. L. Ripley, clothing; J. C. Brown, fruit store; L. B. Amerman, dry goods; T. McMillan, druggist; T. G. Myers, grocer; A. C. Acosta, fruit store; J. B. Howell,
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 101 grocer; Joseph Hernandez, tailor; C. DeWaal, bakery; Geo. Flagg, jeweler; R. H. Darby, tailor; C. Poetting, boot and shoe maker. The law offices of Geo. W. Call and G. W. Hawkins and the office of F. C. Barrett, Notary Public, etc., in the Byrne block, were also destroyed, a portion only of their legal and official documents being saved. The office and warehouse of Mr. Joseph Finegan and the furniture store of L. M. Fulsom, destroyed. McRory's Insurance Agency, office in the Sammis Block, also went by the board, together with a portion of his papers. The Custom-house, Mr. McIntosh's Law office, Capt. Willey's residence, J. Hanham's store and residence, J. Mode's store and elegant residence, as also the law office of P. Frazer, Esq., we note among other buildings destroyed. The two and only printing offices of the place-the Republican and the News, were consumed, the latter entirely, and but enough of the Republican material has been gleaned from the harvest of the terrible Reaper to furnish this Extra! We shall order new type and a press, however, by the mail for the north tomorrow morning, and hope to be "fully on our feet" again in the course of a month; and in the meantime shall endeavor to issue copies enough of our paper for our exchanges on a foolscap sheet, on an improvised press-our two iron hand presses being utterly wrecked. We therefore throw ourselves upon the indulgence of our advertising and reading patrons "for a little while," being determined not to desert the "burning ship"-being utterly opposed to any species of "ratting". As we are doing advertising for merchants in Charleston and Savannah, we request our contemporaries in those cities to note our situation. The steamer "Florida" was lying at her wharf at the time of the fire, and drew off into the stream as it progressed: the "Seminole" from Savannah bringing the mail (the Gaston being taken off the line) had passed up the river. Every exertion was made by the citizens, firemen, and even the ladies, who were found here and there lending assistance, to arrest the fire, the negroes also laboring faithfully to do their utmost. But the fire became unmanageable, and as the intense heat extended itself, confusion and exhaustion rendered human exertion less efficient. A portion of the fire apparatus unfortunately fell into a situation which brought it in contact with the flames, and it was lost. Upon the amount of property lost, it is estimated that one-half is insured, some in New York and New England offices, and some in Georgia. The two printing offices were insured, our own for a little more than half its value. We lost all the printing paper, and a large quantity of letter, which we had on hand for jobbing. Our "set up" forms have run into a molten mass. Mr. Andres Canova was severely burnt and is disabled, and Mr. J. C. Hemming was severely stunned and for some time hurt, but he is now better. We regret also that the family of Mr. Philip Frazer, who were ill, were forced to remove.
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102 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Scarlet Fever Epidemic This was a period of misfortune for Jacksonville, as a severe epidemic of scarlet fever was raging in the town when the fire occurred. There were two versions as to how the fever started here. One is that the infection was introduced by means of a letter writtenby a lady while holding a baby sick with scarlet fever in her lap. The other is that the nurse one day took little Ally Dell, daughter of Philip Dell, down to the boat yard and it is supposed that the child played with sailors from a vessel lying at the wharf and on which there was a case of scarlet fever. In a few days she was taken desperately ill. Mrs. Mary Turknett nursed this child and it died in her lap. This was in February, 1854. The attending physician diagnosed the case simply as one of fever, but when the little corpse was prepared for burial, scarlet fever symptoms were noticed in the peeling skin. Mrs. Turknett shrouded the body, at that time wearing a black woolen skirt. When she returned to her home she hung the skirt up in a closet and did not wear it again for nearly a month. Then she wore it, and in a few days scarlet fever broke out in the family. b The disease spread through the town and the type was most malignant. Numbers of persons died, the Turknett family in particular being afflicted, five grown sons dying within a space of eight days, April 2 to 10, two of them on the same day and were buried from the same bier. Yellow Fever Quarantine Thus twice had Jacksonville suffered from diseases introduced from outside sources, so when the yellow fever broke out in Savannah in the summer of 1854, the citizens determined to keep it from coming to this place at all hazards. The authorities prohibited the Savannah steamers stopping or even passing by on their way up the river, as it was thought that the yellow fever might be introduced in that way. Captain Nick King, of the Savannah steamer, carried the mail, and he laughed at the proclamation of the citizens prohibiting the passage of steamers by Jacksonville, and passed by heedless of the warning. A party of citizens then got an old condemned cannon, took it to the river bank at the foot of Catherine Street, and loaded it with a 32-pound shot.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 103 About dark the steamer hove in sight coming up the river, close in on the opposite side. When in line with the pointed cannon the gun was fired, the ball passing through the forward gang-way of the vessel. The gun was rapidly loaded again, this time with a 6-pound shot, and fired; the ball passed through the cabin, just grazing the neck of a negro who was in the act of lighting a lamp. When it is considered that the muzzle of the gun was kept in place and moved by a hand spike, this was spectacular shooting. The steamer made no more trips until the epidemic at Savannah was declared at an end,c and the determination thus displayed by the citizens of Jacksonville in all probability prevented the introduction of the fever in that year. Biblioxrrphy. Chapter 1 aIistory of Florida, Webb; bSee bibliography. Chapter X; cerniniscences of an old citizen, Jacksonville Tri-weekly Sun. Jan. 22, Feb. 1. 1876; dO. L. Keene in Jacksonville Metropolis. Dec. 12, 1908; eSee Florida Reports; fReliable data from various soureae; gTho author poassasm a copy of the Extra; hASown on map of Jacksonville of 1859.
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104 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER XI 1855 to 1860 Jacksonville recovered rapidly from its reverses of 1854. Its people with wonderful energy set to work building better stores and houses in the burned area. Larger steamboats and tug boats for towing appeared on the river. The railroad to western Florida was assured and actual work on it was about to begin. Travel from the State and from abroad increased. More interest was taken in Church and school attendance. Prosperity was evident everywhere; the people were united and anything that promised to advance the interest of the town was liberally pushed forward.s A board of trade was formed to advertise the locality. Trade There was a large local trade in furnishing supplies to the mills and loggers, and there was also an extensive river and back-country trade. The country trade came in the wellknown country cart, from distances of 60 miles and occasionally 100 miles, bringing in cotton, syrup and country produce and exchanging for goods. Trains of six-mule teams were maintained regularly between Alligator (Lake City) and Jasper and Jacksonville. Owing to the shallowness of the bar large schooners could not come in; the water on the bar at high tide was not more than 10 feet. A cargo of lumber of 100,000 feet was considered tremendous; yet there was an annual exportation of more than 25 million feet.a With a property valuation in 1856 of $400,000 Jacksonville had put its calamities behind it and was looking forward into the future. But the end was not yet. Another Big Fire At 4:30 a.m., November 15, 1856, fire broke out in a wooden store on the south side of Bay Street between Pine (Main) and Laura, and before it stopped the entire block was in ashes. The volunteer fire department, with their bucket brigades, had a difficult time in keeping the fire from wiping out the new structures east of Pine Street erected since 1854."
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 105 Damaging Freeze January 19th and 20th, 1857, were the coldest days since 1835. Temperatures of 16 and 18 degrees, respectively, were recorded, and ice two inches thick formed on pools and along the margin of the river. People were seen sliding and trying to skate on the ice.b Yellow Fever Epidemic of 1857 In the early part of the summer of 1857, an epidemic of yellow fever raged at St. Marys, Ga., and from that place it was brought to Jacksonville in August, it was said later by Nathan Vaught. Mr. Vaught's house stood on a bluff just east of the intersection of Bay and Broad Streets, and it was there that the epidemic started. That locality was never considered very healthful; McCoys Creek near-by was a dirty, stagnant stream, and much of the land in the vicinity was low, marsh land. The summer was described as hot and murky, with frequent rains and much decaying vegetable matter. It is a noted fact that three crops of weeds grew during the season, and some people tried to connect this unusual circumstance with the spread of the fever.s In these surroundings the disease gained a foot-hold. The McFalls lived near the Vaughts and soon took the fever; then it spread to the Currys living close by on the bank of McCoys Creek. In the meantime some of the other residents, both men and ladies, hearing of the distress out there (that section was considered out of town then) went to nurse the sick. In this way the contagion spread through the town. Most of the people left, and there was an entire suspension of business. But one store remained open-a drug store conducted by Dr. E. P. Webster. Dr. Webster kept his store open all during the epidemic and dispensed medicines gratuitously to those who did not have the means to pay." During the period of the disease the streets were deserted and grew up in grass. The steamers did not stop here and the town was isolated from the rest of the world. Doctors and clergymen courageously remained, and those of the residents that stayed ministered to and nursed the sick night and day and buried the dead. Clothing and food were freely dispensed to those in need. Never were a people more sympathetic and generous. Fortunately there came an early frost (on October 26th, and on November 20th the temperature
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106 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA fell to freezing). There were 127 deaths, a fearful death rate, when it is considered that not more than 600 people had the fever.° An idea of the malignity of the disease may be gained from the mortality in the Mott family, composed of twelve members, all of whom had the fever and nearly all of them died. The Turknett family, that had suffered so severely in the scarlet fever epidemic of 1854, lost two more members by yellow fever. e Numbers of the best citizens met death upon the altar of brotherly love. The grave stones in the old city cemetery bear mute witness to the terrible visitation. Some of the ignorant persons looked upon the spread of the disease with reverential fear and considered it a visitation of The Almighty.' Others thought it was due to the excavation being made for the railroad through wet and marshy land, thus exposing the freshly dug soil to the hot and sultry weather, thereby causing a malarious atmosphere. Still others advanced the idea that it might have originated at the old market, and cautioned the authorities to permit nothing that might be detrimental to the public health to exist there, especially in hot weather. But there was a pathetic feeling of dread and doubt, common to all in regard to the proper treatment of the fever and the best method by which to combat its spread.: With the approach of cold weather, the residents began to return, and in the course of time the conditions that had existed before the epidemic were resumed. The lumber industry recovered from the depression of 1857, and a succession of good crop years again placed everything upon the high road of prosperity. And so, armed with Faith and Pluck, these early citizens won their fight with Adversity. New wharves and business houses were built, as were residences of a better class than had previously existed. Streets were opened and extended, and there was a general improvement in walks and roads. The city was governed without paid officials, only the marshal receiving a small salary for his services, and taxation was not burdensome.a In 1858, there were built here a large barque, called the American Eagle, and a schooner, the Martha. The Martha was lost at sea in May, 1876. What became of the American Eagle is not known.'
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 107 Town Ordinances (Of record in 1859) These old laws are interesting and valuable historical records, furnishing a good insight into the spirit of the time. Under the town charter fines for violation of the town ordinances were limited to not exceeding $100 for each violation, and imprisonment to not exceeding 30 days. Running at random through them we find :g An Ordinance Relating to Abusive Language and Drunkenness: Be it ordained by the intendant (mayor) and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That any person or persons who shall be guilty of using any abusive or provoking language to any other person or persons, or of making any threats of violence, or of making use of any obscene language, or of immoral conduct, or of profane cursing or swearing, or being drunk in the streets, or of making any noise or disturbance calculated to disturb the public peace and quiet, or of aiding or abetting or being guilty of a riot within the limits of the town of Jacksonville, on conviction thereof shall, at the discretion of the intendant, be fined for each and every offence herein enumerated, not exceeding fifty dollars, or imprisoned not more than fifteen days. An Ordinance Relating to Sale of Beef: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That any person or persons, bringing beef, pork, or mutton, to sell at the public market of said town, shall ring the market bell, at least one minute before exposing the same for sale, and shall remain at the market at least one hour after ringing said bell, unless he sooner dispose of said meats, and shall also bring the hide and ears of each beef, and the ears of each hog and sheep, which shall be inspected by the marshal, and the marks and brands of the same be recorded in a book to be kept by him for that purpose, together with the name of the person or persons who shall bring said beef, pork or mutton for sale, and for such and every record of entry so made, the owner or seller of said beef shall pay the marshal twenty-five cents for each beef, and the owner or seller of said hog or mutton, twelve and one-half cents for each hog and sheep; and any person failing to comply with the provisions of this ordinance, shall be fined not exceeding ten dollars for each and every offence, at the discretion of the intendant. An Ordinance Regulating Patrols: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That the town marshal furnish the intendant, at such times as he may require, a full and complete list of the names of all white male inhabitants of the town of Jacksonville, between the ages of sixteen and fifty-five years; and it shall be the duty of the intendant to require and make said persons do and perform patrol duty within the limits of said corporation of Jacksonville, at any time and at all such times as he may deem necessary,
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108 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA and to order out as many of said persons as he may think proper, who shall be summoned by the marshal by 4 o'clock p.m. (except in case of emergency), and of the men so ordered out to do patrol duty, one shall be appointed captain by the intendant or marshal, who shall be required to give a true and correct account of his conduct and of the conduct of the men under him, to the intendant or marshal. The captain of the patrol shall be governed by the order of the intendant or marshal, and the laws of the state regulating patrol, and if any person or persons who may have been ordered by the intendant or summoned by the marshal to do patrol duty, shall fail, refuse. or neglect, to do the same. according to his or their order, or fail or neglect to provide a substitute, who will willingly perform the duty, he or they so offending. shall, unon conviction, be fined in the sum not exceeding three dollars. at the discretion of the intendant, for each and every such offense; provided nevertheless that no member of the town council shall be subject to regular patrol duty. excent in case of emergency. An Ordinance Establishing Brick Limits (Passed Nov. 18, 1856three days after a large fire on south side of Bay Street). Defines the limits, Pine to Julia, south of Forsyth, except wharves and warehouses over the water, and provides: Be it further ordained, That any person or persons may and shall be stopped in their labors, in and about any such building or structure as aforesaid (except buildings of brick. tabby, or other fire-proof materials), and their work shall be demolished, by and under the direction of the intendant of said town, or the person acting as such. either by himself or the town marshal or his deputy, either or all of whom are hereby authorized to summon a "posse comitatus" from the citizens for their assistance. Be it further ordained, that any and every person so summoned as aforesaid, either verbally or otherwise. to aid and assist said intendant or marshal as aforesaid. failing or refusing to assist them, shall each and every one of them be fined in a sum not exceeding one hundred dollars, or imprisoned not more than thirty days, at the discretion of the intendant. An Ordinance Relating to Pay of Marshal: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That the compensation of services of the marshal shall be fixed at the following rates, and to continue until altered or repealed, viz: Specific annual salary, $150; 5 per centum on tares collected: 5 ner centrum on money collected for swimming or flatting cattle across St. Johns River; 50 per centum of all fines collected: and allowed the same costs as a constable. An Ordinance Relating to Fire: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That any person or persons, who shall make use of fire in any manner unusually dangerous to his or her neighbors, or any citizens of the town, endangering their property, or any property in the town, by their chimneys or stove pipes not being in a usually safe and fit state for use, or for such use as they are put to, or shall otherwise endanger their neighbors, or other citizens
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 109 of the town, by neglect, carelessness, or imprudence in the use of fire in any way, shall be subject to a fine, if a white person, not exceeding one hundred dollars, or imprisonment not more than thirty days, for each offence, and the like penalty for every repetition thereof; and if a negro or mulatto, to whipping not exceeding thirty-nine stripes, at the discretion of the intendant. An Ordinance Relating to Houses of Ill-Fame: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That any person or persons, who shall keep a disorderly house, or house of ill-fame, and every owner of a house or houses, or other person who may rent or cause to be rented, any house to be used as a house of ill-fame, shall be fined not exceeding twenty dollars, or imprisonment not over five days, on conviction, for every day the house is so kept, at the discretion of the intendant. Circumstances from which it may be reasonably inferred that any house which is inhabited by disorderly persons of immoral character and notoriously bad fame, shall be sufficient to establish the fact, that such house is a disorderly house, or house of ill-fame, according to the meaning of this ordinance; and all adult persons inhabiting and living in such house, shall be considered the keepers thereof, and be subject to the penalties of this ordinance. An Ordinance to Prevent Nuisances: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That any person or persons in said town, who shall keep on his or her premises any nuisance to the annoyance of his or her neighbors, or detrimental to the health of said town, and suffer the same to remain after being notified by the marshal to remove the same, shall, on conviction, be fined not exceeding twenty dollars, nor less than three dollars, at the discretion of the intendant, and pay in addition to said fine, the cost of removing said nuisance. An Ordinance Relating to Selling or Giving Liquors to Slaves: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That any person or persons, who shall give or sell any spirituous or intoxicating liquor to any slave (except by written permission from the owner, agent, or employer of such slave), within the corporation limits, shall, on conviction, be fined not exceeding fifty dollars, or imprisoned not more than fifteen days, for each offence, at the discretion of the intendant. An Ordinance Punishing Resistance to Authority of the Marshal: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That if any person or persons resist or oppose the marshal of the town of Jacksonville, in the exercise of his duty under any of the ordinances of said town, or being called upon by the marshal, shall refuse to give him active aid and assistance in apprehending any person or persons accused of any crime, or acting in any unlawful manner, he or they so offending shall be fined not exceeding twenty dollars, or imprisoned not more than five days at the discretion of the intendant. An Ordinance Relating to Non-Attendance at Council Meetings: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jackson-
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110 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA ville, That any member of the council failing to attend a meeting of the same, after having been duly summoned by the marshal of the town, shall be fined in the sum of two dollars, unless a good, sufficient, and satisfactory excuse be rendered. An Ordinance Relating to the Market: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That it shall not be lawful for any person to sit, stand, or lounge upon the benches or meatstalls of the market house, and any person or persons violating the provisions of this ordinance, on conviction thereof, shall be fined five dollars, or imprisoned one day, at the discretion of the intendant. And be it further ordained, That the rent of the stalls in the town market, shall be five dollars per month; and no stall shall be rented for a less period than one month; and said monthly rent to be paid to the marshal, in all cases, in advance. An Ordinance Relating to Paupers and Vagrants: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That no person shall knowingly and willfully bring or introduce, or cause to be brought or introduced, into the town of Jacksonville, any pauper or vagrant, or any person not having property to support him or her, and who is unable or unwilling to work, or otherwise support himself or herself in a respectable way, with intent to make such pauper or vagrant chargeable upon the charity of the town or citizens thereof. For each and every day that such pauper or vagrant shall remain in this town, the person so introducing, or causing him or her to be introduced, shall be adjudged to be guilty of a new violation of this ordinance. Every violation of this ordinance shall be punished by a fine not exceeding fifty dollars, or imprisonment not more than fifteen days. An Ordinance Regulating Trial in Intendant's Court: Be it ordained by the intendant and councilmen of the town of Jacksonville, That the trial of all offences that may arise under any of the ordinances of the town of Jacksonville, shall be had before the intendant, the said intendant sitting and composing a court for that purpose; and all trials shall be conducted according to the usual forms and rules adopted in the courts of justice. And be it further ordained, That all actions or prosecutions brought under the ordinances of said town, shall be brought in the name of the town or city of Jacksonville. And be it further ordained, That all fines, penalties, and taxes shall be levied and collected by warrant from the intendant or mayor. First Telegraph The first telegraph line from Jacksonville was built in 1859, to Baldwin, where it connected with the Cuban line and with the North.a
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 111 Aurora of 1859 On September 2, 1859, from midnight to 4 a.m., a fine auroral display was observed by the citizens of Jacksonville. At times it was very bright and red, occupying the northern heavens from northwest around to northeast and east. Streamers would be sent up from different points almost to the zenith, then fade away and flicker up again. At 3 a.m. the whole heavens shone with a brilliant red light, even the south was quite red. The more ignorant people were very much frightened, and many amusing incidents were told of how the negroes began to pray, thinking that the end of the world was at hand.b There appears to have been a period of special aurora frequency from 1870 to 1882. More or less pronounced auroral displays were observed in Jacksonville on September 24 and October 14 and 25, 1870; February 4, 1872; June 4, 1877; and on November 17, 1882, there was a well-marked display that attracted general attention Just Prior to the War In the years 1850 to 1860, the town, notwithstanding its many setbacks, doubled its population; the census of 1860 gave more than 2,000 inhabitants. During 1860, there was no cessation of business. Travel and the mails increased; likewise the telegraph business. Steamers and other vessels came and departed regularly. But with the mutterings of the coming trouble a nervous tension found its way into every occupation. The public mind drifted into political, rather than into commercial channels. Groups of men would collect on the streets and discuss the grave questions of the day. News of the attack on Fort Sumter at once suspended all business with the North and the mills, with one exception, closed down. Then the mails ceased coming, and the town began gradually to subside into inactivity," only soon to be drawn into the whirlpool of war. Bibliography, Chapter XI a"old Citizen" in Jacksonville Tri-weekly Union, Feb. 1, 1876: bRecords of Dr. A. S. Baldwin; cReliable data; old newspaper clipping; dlistory of Florid.a We;b eMrn. Goo. S. Wlson; fDr. W. M. Boetwick; gAs publiUho in Florida TIme-Unl
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112 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER XII SOCIAL LIFE BEFORE THE WAR A large percentage of the citizens were men of education and ability, some of them being specialists in their professional lines. Given to entertaining among themselves, and the "strangers within their gates", they formed a distinct set where culture and refinement were the dominant characteristics, thus creating a social condition that was morally healthful and uplifting. Cooking and serving were done entirely at home, by servants trained in the art for generations. Domestic service was then free from nomadic annoyance; therefore the ease and pleasures of entertaining were unhampered. The chief amusements were dinner parties, cards, and dancing. Besides the old-fashioned square dances, reels, etc., graceful Spanish dances and gliding waltzes were indulged in. All danced, the matron as well as the maid; grandmothers could be seen dancing with their grandsons. No dance was ever given without the patronage of married people-this was a strict social requirement. Marcellini, an old Spanish negro, was the chief functionary at all the dances, as it was his "fiddle and bow" that furnished the music, the mention of which caused one lady to exclaim, "Sweet memories of happy days are revived with the thought of Marcellini and his dancing fiddle", while another says in verse: I see him yet, his rolling eyes, his scanty woolen hair, HIls swaying form, his conscious pride, his almost lordly air, When all the white folks waiting stood, till he would draw his bow; * * * * . S And when he touched the familiar notes, the sober and the staid, Just felt the music in their heels, when Marcellini played. Picnics in the summer-time and oyster roasts in the winter were pleasures that all could partake of. Camping for several days on the river bank, called marooningg", was a popular pastime. A period of moonlight nights was generally selected for marooning, so that moonlight water parties might be an attendant feature. Music was on hand to
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 113 be sure, and the soft, mellow notes of the guitar were certain to be heard out on the river as some youth sang the popular ballad of the day: Lightly row, lightly row, as o'er the dancing waves we go; Smoothly glide, smoothly glide, out on the silent tide. Let the winds and waters be, mingled with our melody, Lightly row, lightly row, for music's voice is low. Gently with the sea-bird's note, let our dying music float, Lightly row, l-i-g-h-t-l-y r-o-w. There was serenading by groups of young men, who would visit the home of some popular person and with music and songs entertain the household for half an hour or so, those within in the meantime preparing refreshments for the serenaders. Frequently the presence of some "love-sick" person would be evinced by the notes of his guitar, as he stood singing softly outside the home of his "lady-love". More boisterous was the custom of charivari, or "shiveree", a hideous clamor of tin pans, horns, whistles, and other disagreeable noises, indulged in outside the home of a newly married widow or widower. The hilarious amusement always provoked anger on the part of the groom, but it would not cease until the participants were refreshed with cake and wine. This lightness, vivacity, love of pleasure, marks clearly the impress of the Spanish character upon the community. The English occupation also left some of its staunch, staid customs, such as strict attendance upon the Church services; financial provision for the future; propriety the requirement of society's inner circle; and a rigid obedience to set customs, a disregard of them being considered an evidence of ill-breeding. All forms of affliction met with the profoundest sympathy. Notice of funerals was written on a sheet of letter paper through which a wide black ribbon was inserted, and taken from house to house by a servant, attendance being considered a mark of respect for the living, as well as for the dead. There were no trained nurses and it devolved upon some member of the family, usually the mother or oldest daughter, to perform such duties in case of sickness. When members of a household were unable to provide the necessary attention for its sick, neighbors volunteered. It was nothing out of the ordinary for those occupying the highest social
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114 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA position to nurse the poor night and day, or to shroud the dead. Sorrow and sickness obliterated the social boundary' line and affliction became public property. Public out-of-door functions, barbecues, patriotic celebrations, and the like were of frequent occurrence. Every town improvement, or the inauguration of anything that had as its object the public weal, met with immediate popular favor, and the occasion was usually made one of public celebration, with speech-making and a grand, good time for all. Such a thing as a circus coming to town was sufficient to cause unbounded enthusiasm, and the songs and jokes could be heard on the streets long after its departure. In general, the people were kind-hearted, generous, and hospitable. They were happy and contented, with a profound fondness for recreation and pleasure; yet they were sympathetic and patient under affliction, and at all times were united in the interest of the town's improvement. The community was prosperous, and the citizens possessed a business judgment that enabled them to overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles, and to provide bountifully for the present, and accumulate for the future. Bibliography. Chapter XH First-hand story of old residents of Jacksonville in what they called the "hary dyV before the war".
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MAP OF THE CITY OF JACKSONVILLE, 1859 I I-,. ,. j r9~ J X OF THE CITY OF '\ /^ L~d b..±: -. I'-; --_t xg--p 8 M MT" '. 0 A1'---' B R W A '" 'S T E E T ' ,,..,,..,,,,,,', 3 E'" . . .. \ I . I . I . I --. W -4 f «* I . ! 5 01 |.1 1 , 1 ' . I -! I» . r 1 »-. 1 , = C 1 k r1» . I . . -I9---1 -1-.-I-I . .1 ,'1,.1'1r ' -. /. * | i i ' a ~/ 'I1 I' ' . 7 I -/ · 1\ -= 4 q O g inal at Public Library: Gift of GI D . ' I c erly. I "I I I 4.__ A 4r 0 L I N T __ S T 4 Ith E E T. S-F 1 4 T.77-./ / FT-" iYB U C S T R E Er -F r I T ?""f aMTY T I 4 41 1, _7 I 1, I 7 E I . . K F-T I I PUBLI II C -IN 0 S It 0 I N E S Ti It iE E T. N, t L H 9 'T 1, 1 Original at Public Library: Gift of G. D. Ackerly. S. i-c ri p J**'I--',"" 15 E F 0 R S Y T 1i 8 T R E E T. ----` Original a Public Lirary: Gif f G. D. Akerly. 11
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 115 Map of Jacksonville of 1859 *No written record applying to the foregoing map of Jacksonville has been found, but its face bears testimony that tends to place its date in 1859. The shading in the lower center is the area covered by the devastating fire of 1854. The Judson House was built in 1854. The plank road was built in 1856-7. The map bears the title "City": Jacksonville was created a "City" by change from "Town" class by the charter of January, 1859. The Buffington House was burned late in 1859, and it probably would not have been shown as an illustration and located on the map had the map been prepared at a later time. Therefore it is assumed that the map was prepared in 1859 with some relation to the new charter and change of designation; and also that it was based on a previous map, presumably Hart's map of about 1857. The corporate limits indicated are those of March, 1842, remaining unchanged by the new charter, in fact they so remained until 1887. The unnumbered blocks in the upper portion of the map lie between Hogans Creek and the South Branch of the creek; the south branch has since been filled in and does not appear on late maps. I. D. Hart acquired all of the Taylor grant except ten acres; the unnumbered blocks referred to comprise about ten acres. In the early days the river was not bulkheaded and almost every severe northeaster backed the water into the stores on Bay Street. Apparently I. D. Hart in his survey attempted to correct this and at the same time increase the value of a larger section of his property by shifting the business center of the town from Bay Street between Market and Ocean to a blackjack ridge, where he provided a public square (now Hemming Park), doubtless intended as a market and general gathering place; and laid off the lots facing it on Duval, Hogan and Monroe Streets and the diagonal corners as half lots for store and business purposes. Hart never donated this square to the city, but the executors of his estate did in 1866. It is not known why the block numbered 63 was not divided into lots, unless the purpose was to reserve it for the free negroes settled in that locality.
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116 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER XIII THE WAR BETWEEN THE STATES (1861-1865) Florida withdrew from the Union January 10, 1861, whereupon the Jacksonville Light Infantry offered its services to the governor and was ordered to the mouth of the St. Johns River to garrison a post at that point.a Soon afterward a company known as the Duval County Cow Boys took up a position on St. Johns Bluff. These posts were maintained until the approach of the Federal squadron under Commodore DuPont in March, 1862.b Mayor's Proclamation Early in March, 1862, rumors reached Jacksonville that a Federal expedition, with a large number of troops, was about to embark for the occupation of this town. The mayor then published this proclamation, for the information of the citizens :c TO THE CITIZENS OF JACKSONVILLE. Fellow Citizens: In the present trying crisis, much thought and anxious inquiry have been devoted by the City Council, the citizens, and several of our friends from the country, including Gen. S. R. Pyles and Staff, to ascertain and determine what, under all the circumstances, is best to be done, and will best promote the safety, comfort, and happiness of the people. On yesterday evening, a portion of the City Council held an interview with Gen. Pyles and his Staff, and after full discussion and patient deliberation, it was unanimously determined that inasmuch as all the Confederate troops, arms, and munitions of war upon the St. Johns river and in East and South Florida generally are to be abandoned, it is useless to attempt a defense of the City of Jacksonville, and therefore upon the approach of the enemy it should be surrendered. This having been decided upon as the sound and proper course to be pursued, Col. M. Whit Smith suggested that the Mayor should make it known to the citizens by proclamation and this suggestion being fully concurred in by all present, I therefore, in conformity thereto, make known to you that all defenses will be immediately withdrawn from the city and the St. Johns river and no military force will be kept on duty, except for Police pur-
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 117 poses, and such force will be supplied by details drawn from our citizens. I advise and earnestly admonish our citizens to remain at their homes and pursue their usual avocations, and I call upon all good citizens to give their aid and counsel for the preservation of good order throughout the entire community. It is the opinion of our most experienced and intelligent citizens (and I think a correct one) that if the enemy meet with no resistance, private property will be respected, and unarmed citizens will be allowed to pursue their usual occupations. I trust, therefore, that our whole population will act with becoming prudence, and that no unnecessary provocation may be given that may furnish a reason for violence from any quarter; and if after we have offered no resistance and given no just provocation, violence should be committed, the whole blame will rest on the aggressors. Every citizen able to perform police duty is hereby required to hold himself in readiness to go on duty, upon receiving notice from the Chief of Police. i. H. Hoeg, March 7, 1862. Mayor. This proclamation not only did not produce the desired effect, but on the other hand greatly intensified the alarm. The residents were panic-stricken, and two or three days later, when news was received that Fernandina had been occupied by Federal troops, all the Southern sympathizers who could go away left Jacksonville. Business along all lines was entirely suspended. The one railroad out of the town was taxed to its utmost capacity, carrying refugees to Lake City and other points in the interior of Florida. Others left with their belongings in wagons, some of them,. women and children, having no destination and guided and protected only by faithful servants. A recital of the hardships that many of these women and children suffered during the next few years would soften the most callous heart. Numbers of them found refuge with relatives or friends in the interior, but there were some who suffered terrible hardships and were subjected to all the horrors incident to war. When the city offices were closed the records were secretly buried for safe-keeping. After the war, when these records were exhumed, it was found that they were practically worthless because of illegibility due to decay.e First Federal Occupationf Four Federal gunboats, Seneca, Pembina, Ottawa, and Isaac Smith, and two transports of Commodore DuPont's squadron, crossed St. Johns bar March 11, 1862, and anchored
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118 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA in the river. On the same day the Confederates came to Jacksonville, and under orders from the commander of the district, General Trapier, burned all the mills, except one (Scott's), and 4,000,000 feet of lumber. Mr. Scott saved his mill by raising the British flag over it. They also burned the foundry, and a gunboat on the ways. But this was not all. That night a mob of men composed of refugees from Fernandina and Jacksonville came in and from pure malignity fired the Judson House and two or three other buildings in the town. The next day, March 12th, the Federal squadron came up the river and anchored off Jacksonville. The capitulation of the town is described by a resident, Frederick Lueders, in the Immigration Edition of the Industrial Record (Jacksonville) of July, 1907, as follows: "One day (March 12th), as I was standing on the river bank at the foot of Laura Street, I saw four gunboats come steaming up the river and drop anchor off the foot of Pine (Main) Street. I was getting pretty well scared, when the thought flashed through my head, 'If they bombard Jacksonville, it will be nothing short of murder'. At that time I happened to have a stick in my hand, and noting the guns were turned toward Jacksonville, I took out my handkerchief, tied it to the stick, and waved it vigorously over my head. The commander of the fleet saw the peace signal and with his aides came ashore. Upon landing, I told him the existing circumstances and begged him not to open fire upon the town. He said he would not, and for me to go on board. After I had explained that I was the only officer in the town (he was sheriff) he requested me to sign the surrender papers, which I did. He said his mission here was one of peace and that he hoped Florida would not suffer the havoc of war. Upon my return I found to my surprise that troops had been landed and pickets were out." It was six companies of the Fourth New Hampshire Regiment, under the command of Colonel T. J. Whipple, that Mr. Lueders found in possession of Jacksonville. The occupation was quietly performed on March 12th. The Confederate troops were encamped in the vicinity of Baldwin, but they were more or less disorganized and poorly equipped, and they made no attempt at contesting the landing of the Federal forces here.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 119 The original plan of the Federal expedition was to occupy Jacksonville for only a few hours, for the purpose of reconnaissance; but the representations of the "loyal" residents of the town caused Colonel Whipple to abandon the idea of immediate evacuation. Pickets were stationed and the troops went into camp or were quartered in the vacant buildings. On March 19th, General T. W. Shermant (U. S. A.), commander of the department, arrived. He came for the purpose of personally acquainting himself with the situation here, and in his report he stated that the act of Colonel Whipple in regularly occupying Jacksonville was a wise one. In the meantime, the Confederate troops in the vicinityof Baldwin, under the command of Colonel W. S. Dilworth, were recruiting and otherwise preparing to resist any attempt of the Federals to march into the interior of the State. Proclamation of the Loyal Citizens As soon as Jacksonville was thoroughly in the hands of the Federal army, a meeting of the "Loyal Citizens of the United States", was held, at 10:30 a. m., March 20, 1862, C. L. Robinson, chairman; 0. L. Keene, secretary; John S. Sammis, S. F. Halliday, John W. Price, Philip Frazer, and Paran Moody, being the committee appointed to draft resolutions to lay before said meeting. The following is a true copy of these resolutions:§ We, the people of the city of Jacksonville and its vicinity, in the county of Duval, and State of Florida, embraced within the territory and jurisdiction of the United States of America, do hereby set forth our declaration of rights and our solemn protest against the abrogation of the same by any pretended State or other authority. First. We hold that government is a contract, in which protection is the price of allegiance; that when protection is denied, through weakness or design, allegiance is no longer due. Second. We hold that an established form of government cannot be changed or abrogated except by the will of the people, intelligently and willingly expressed and fairly ratified. Third. We hold that no State of the United States has any legal or constitutional right to separate itself from the government and jurisdiction of the United States. Fourth. We hold that the act of the Convention of the State of tDo not confound with W. T. Sherman. o War of the Rebellion-Official Reeord of the Union and Confederat Armni Series or1 VolL Pago 251. $t2.
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120 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA v-rrr Florida commonly known as the ordinance of secession, is void, being in direct conflict with the Constitution of the United States, in never having been submitted to the people for ratification. Fifth. We hold that the State of Florida is an integral part of the United States, subject to the constitutional jurisdiction of the same, and we have reason to believe that thousands of her citizens would hail with joy the restoration of the Government, bringing deliverance from the terrors of unrestrained popular and military despotism. We solemnly protest against all the acts and ordinances of the Convention of the State of Florida, which were designed to deprive us of our rights as citizens of the United States. We protest against the despotism fostered by the State and other authorities claiming jurisdiction over us, which has denied us the rights most dear to freemen-freedom of speech and a free press. We protest against the exactions which have been imposed upon us-forced contributions of money, property, and labor; enlistments for military service procured by threats and misrepresentations. We protest against the tyranny which demands of us as a measure of revolutionary policy abandonment of our homes and property and exposure of our wives and children to sickness, destitution, gaunt famine, innumerable and untold miseries and sorrows. We protest against that mad and barbarous policy which has punished us for remaining in our own homes by sending a brutal and unrestrained soldiery to pillage and burn our property, threaten and destroy our lives. We protest against the denunciation of the governor, who threatens to hang us because we do not tamely submit to such indignities and "lick the hand just raised to shed our blood." From such a despotism and from such dangers and indignities we have been released by the restoration of the Government of the United States, with the benign principles of the Constitution. The reign of terror is past. Law and order prevail in our midst. It belongs now to the citizens of the State who hold to their allegiance to the United States to raise up a State government according to those provisions of the State which are not in conflict with or repugnant to the provisions of the United States: Be it therefore resolved, That we adopt the foregoing protest and declaration of rights, and recommend that a convention of all loyal citizens be called forthwith, for the purpose of organizing a State government of the State of Florida. Be it further resolved, That the chief of the military department of the United States be requested to retain at this place a sufficient force to maintain order and protect the people in their persons and property. Philip Frazer, Chairman. A true copy of the resolutions as passed at said meeting and adopted as their own act. C. L. Robinson, Chairman; 0. L. Keene, Secretary.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 121 On the same day, General Sherman issued a proclamation to the "Loyal People of East Florida", confirming and commending the foregoing resolutions and stating that the troops of the United States "had come amongst you to protect loyal citizens and their property from further molestation by the creatures of a rebel and usurped authority, and to enable you to resuscitate a Government which they have ruthlessly endeavored to destroy", etc. Another meeting of the "loyal citizens" was held on the 24th of March and a committee of five was appointed to take steps toward obtaining the co-operation of other counties in the State in the effort to organize a state government under the jurisdiction of the United States. To this end a convention was called to meet at Jacksonville on April 10, 1862. In the afternoon of March 24th, General H. G. Wright and the 97th Pennsylvania regiment arrived, General Wright assuming command of the troops in Jacksonville. The Confederates had by this time moved nearer the town and occupied a position at McGirts Creek, about 10 miles west in the direction of Baldwin. On the night of March 24th, a Federal picket of two men that had gone beyond the lines was captured, and at 3 a. m. March 25th, the Confederates attacked a picket at the old brick yard in West LaVilla, killing four and capturing three of them. Lieutenant Strange (C. S. A.) was mortally wounded here. This was the first blood of the war spilled in this vicinity. On the night of March 27th, a Federal picket fired upon a party approaching them in what they thought a suspicious manner, and of the two in advance, one was killed and the other wounded. They proved to be a party of negroes that had escaped from their masters at Lake City. The next day, General Wright, hearing that the Confederates were contemplating an attack upon Jacksonville, sent to Fernandina for two sections of Hamilton's battery. Its arrival brought the Federal force in Jacksonville up to 1,400 men. No attack was made, however, and a few days later the evacuation of the town was ordered. The Evacuation General Wright, in his official report, describes the evacuation as follows:
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122 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA On the 7th (April, 1862) preparations for withdrawing were begun by embarking the public stores, and on the 8th, at 12 noon, the troops were marched on board and the embarkation was completed by 2 p. m. the same day. Owing to the heavy wind which had sprung up during the morning, it was impossible to get all the transports clear of the wharf until near sunset-too late to move safely very far down the intricate channel of the river that night-and it was therefore determined to lay off the town until morning. This I was more willing to do, as it took from our movement all appearance of a hasty retreat. At 6 a. m. of the 9th, the transports, convoyed by the gunboats, proceeded down the river. It is said that General Wright notified the Confederates of the intended evacuation and requested them to resume their occupation of the town, whereupon a detachment of the First Florida calvary rode in and stood on the wharf watching the gunboats sail away. The evacuation of Jacksonville by the Federal forces was unfortunate for "loyal" citizens, the bona-fide ones as well as for those who, supposing the occupation would be permanent, sought to further their personal interests by disclaiming all connection with the Southern cause and remained within the Federal lines. When it became known that the town was to be evacuated, the greatest excitement prevailed among the people; their principal desire now was to get out of Jacksonville, for fear of vengeance. The morning of April 8th was very hot. There was the greatest confusion, as the loyal citizens hurriedly tried to get their goods, furniture, and valuables on board of the transports.h They embarked with the Federal fleet and were carried to Fernandina and Brunswick and quartered in the vacant buildings there. Most of them had to rely on rations issued from the United States stores. Just before the evacuation, General Wright was directed by the general commanding the department, T. W. Sherman, to issue the following notice: HEADQUARTERS THIRD BRIGADE Jacksonville, Fla., April 7, 1862. (NOTICE). In accordance with an order issued by the general commanding the Department of the South the troops will be withdrawn from this place, and I am directed by him to notify the people of Jacksonville that it is his intention to have all the aid and protection afforded the loyal inhabitants of the interior of Florida that is practicable for the security of their persons and property, and for the punishment of
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 123 outrages, and that he holds all persons in that vicinity responsible for the preservation of order and quiet, being fully determined that any outrages upon persons or property contrary to the laws and usages of war shall be visited fourfold upon the inhabitants of disloyal or doubtful character nearest the scenes of any such wrongs, when the actual or known perpetrators cannot be discovered. The undersigned trusts that inasmuch as the unoffending citizens of this place have been treated with the utmost forbearance by our forces, it will not be necessary to carry out the intention in the last clause of the above notice. H. G. Wright, Brigadier-General Commanding. The following is the report of Colonel W. S. Dilworth (C. S. A.) commanding the district of East and Middle Florida, dated April 15, 1862, regarding the operations of the Confederate troops in front of Jacksonville during the occupation of the town by the Federal forces: When the enemy first occupied Jacksonville and while all the Florida troops were retreating in confusion and disorder, I, as colonel of the Third Regiment Florida Volunteers, ordered a part of my regiment to advance in the direction of Jacksonville and take a position within ten miles of the city, with only 250 effective men. Soon I had eight companies of my regiment with me. After making a thorough reconnaissance of the city, I became convinced that I could not attack the city without heavy loss and could be driven out by the enemy's gunboats. I then determined to commence a system of annoyances, by attacking their pickets, foraging parties, etc. I made a successful attack on the picket near the city of Jacksonville, killing four and taking three prisoners, when I was ordered to take command of the district. Colonel Davis was then ordered to the command of the forces near Jacksonville, and has most successfully carried on the system which I commenced and which has resulted in their evacuation of the place. I have further to report that after the evacuation the enemy returned under a flag of truce and were permitted to land 52 negroes, which were taken in charge by the commander of the post. The Yacht Americam It was at the time of the first Federal occupation of Jacksonville that the incident of the capture of the famous yacht America occurred. The career of the America was a notable one. She was built by George Steers for Commodore J. C. Stevens, founder of the N. Y. Yacht Club, and launched in March, 1851. She was a schooner-rigged racing yacht of unusual design and registered 170 tons.
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124 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA In 1851 the first world's exhibit ever held was opened at Crystal Palace in London, and as a sort of culmination of the ceremonies attending the opening there was a great international assemblage of yachts at Cowes. Many races were on the program, chief of which was an international race open to the yachts of all nations for a cup offered by the British Royal Yacht Squadron, the course to be around the Isle of Wight, 81 miles. Commodore Stevens sent the America over for this race, the first ever participated in by American and British yachts. From the moment of the America's arrival at Cowes she was an object of curiosity and apprehension and on one pretext or another the British yacht owners hesitated to accept the challenge that Commodore Stevens issued to the world. Finally the challenge was accepted and the race was sailed on Friday, August 22, 1851. The New York Herald correspondent on the spot described it as follows: Shortly after nine o'clock on Friday morning the yachts were at their stations off the club house, the America lying considerably astern. She was a strange-looking craft enough with her long, low, black hull, her breadth of beam, and her thick, stiff-looking, rakish masts. Pitted against her were fourteen yachts, of which six were schooners and eight cutters. Among these were the flower of the English sporting navy, the choicest products of shipbuilding skill. At ten o'clock the signal was fired from the club house. Before the smoke had cleared away, the fleet was under way, moving steadily to the east with the tide and gentle breeze. The only laggard was the America, which did not move for a second or so after the others. Steamers, shore boats, and yachts of all sizes buzzed along on each side of the course and spread away for miles. If the British heart leaped with momentary exultation over the slowness of the America in getting under way, it was only momentary. She began to creep up on her opponents, passing some of the cutters to windward. In a quarter of an hour she had left them all behind, save only the Constance, the Beatrice and the Fairy Queen, which were well together and went along smartly with the light breeze. In another quarter of an hour the America was clear of them all. Off Sandown Bay, the wind freshening, her jibboom was carried away, but she was well handled and the mishap produced no ill effect, her competitors gaining a trifle, but not approaching her. From the moment she rounded St. Catherine's Point the race was practically over. When the America finally reached the starting vessel at twenty-five minutes to nine p. m., there was no competitor in sight. The news reached Her Majesty the Queen on board of her yacht. "Who is second ?" asked the Queen. "Your Majesty there is no second,"
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 125 replied the messenger. This was true for the moment, but twenty minutes later the Aurora arrived at the stakeboat and was awarded second honors. The America brought the cup home and Commodore Stevens afterward gave it to the N. Y. Yacht Club, where it has since remained. Some time after the race the America was purchased by an Englishman and flew the Union Jack instead of the Stars and Stripes, until the opening of the War Between the States, when a syndicate, tempted by her sailing qualities, purchased her for use as a blockade runner for the Confederacy. As a blockade runner the America's rendezvous was among the Florida Keys, whence she made flying trips to Nassau and Bermuda. In March, 1862, she entered the St. Johns River while the Federal squadron was lying off the bar. An old resident who was an eye-witness to the occurrence published this account of it: One moonlight night at Mayport, when the Federal gunboats were just far enough outside for their black hulls to be faintly visible, there came up out of the east on a wholesale sailing breeze a yacht with every stitch of canvas set and drawing. The foam was cut from her bows like a knife would do it and was thrown high over her deck and on her sails, There came a flash and a boom from a gunboat and a shot ricochetted across her bow, followed by more flashes and shots; but on the gallant craft came, spar and rigging untouched, heeling over now and then and righting herself gracefully. She passed inside the bar safely and when she went by the point (at Mayport) seemed to be flying. She went up to Jacksonville. There being no chance to run the gauntlet again the America was taken to Black Creek when the Federal gunboats entered the river, and was there scuttled, being thus saved from capture as a prize. When the Federals occupied Jacksonville they soon discovered the situation of the America and utilizing the old St. Johns River steamboat Darlington, which they had previously captured at the drawbridge near Fernandina, raised her and towed her to Jacksonville. Temporary repairs were made upon the America and she was taken along when the Federal squadron left in April, 1862. She was afterward assigned as a training ship at Annapolis. In 1870, there came from England Mr. Ashbury's challenge for the America's cup. It was the unanimous desire of the country that the America be allowed to compete for
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126 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA the defense of the cup she had originally won; she had won it against a fleet, and now in 1870 a fleet was to be sent out to defend it against the British challenger Cambria. In the race the America beat the Cambria, but herself was beaten by three other American yachts-the Magic, the Idler, and the Silvie. The America then returned to Annapolis and resumed her position as a training ship. In 1873 she was condemned by the Government and sold to Gen. B. F. Butler. Second Federal Occupationi Following the first Federal occupation Jacksonville was not regularly occupied by Confederate troops. Confederate detachments occasionally came into town, however, just to see how things were getting along, but after a short time withdrew. In the summer of 1862, batteries were erected by the Confederates on the St. Johns River below Jacksonville, at Yellow Bluff and St. Johns Bluff, on opposite sides of the river. For some time these batteries kept the Federal squadron, comprising the gunboats Paul Jones, Cimarron, Water Witch, Hale, Uncas, and Patroon, from coming up the river. The ineffectual effort of the gunboats to reduce these batteries, resulted in an expedition of four transports, carrying 1,573 men, which left Hilton Head, S. C., on September 30th, for the purpose of co-operating with the fleet. This expedition landed near Mayport Mills during the afternoon and evening of October 1st. Colonel C. F. Hopkins, commanding the battery at St. Johns Bluff immediately requested reinforcements, and the garrison at Yellow Bluff crossed over to reinforce him, bringing his available force up to about 500 men. The next day the Federal forces, increased by men from the gunboats, began a movement by land against St. Johns Bluff, the fleet co-operating with the land forces. Late that afternoon, Colonel Hopkins had a conference with his officers, at which it was decided that his force was insufficient to hold the position. It was therefore quietly abandoned at 9 p. m., October 2d. All the guns and a considerable amount of ammunition fell into the hands of the Federal forces. On October 3d, the Paul Jones steamed up to Jacksonville, for the purpose of destroying all boats and otherwise intercepting the passage of the Confederate troops across the
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 127 river. In this it was unsuccessful and returned the next morning to join the fleet anchored off St. Johns Bluff. On October 5th, Jacksonville was occupied the second time by the Federal army. A small Confederate force was stationed in the outskirts of the town, for the purpose of observation, but retired when the gunboat Cimarron opened fire upon them. The landing of the troops was completed in the afternoon of the 5th, and the next morning the gunboats went in search of Confederate steamers which rumor said were secreted in the creeks up the river. The fleet. returned on the 9th, with the steamer Governor Milton, captured in a creek near Enterprise in a disabled condition, her boilers being entirely worn out. Jacksonville was evacuated on the afternoon of the 9th, after an occupation of just four days. General J. M. Brannan, commander of the Federal expedition, said in his report of October 13, 1862: On the 5th (October) I proceeded up the river as far as Jacksonville in the transport Ben DeFord, with 785 infantry. I observed a large quantity of corn and other crops on the banks of the river which it was at first my intention either to remove or destroy. This purpose I afterward abandoned as impracticable. Jacksonville I found to be nearly deserted, there being but a small portion of its inhabitants leftchiefly old men, women and children. From this town and neighborhood I bring with me several refugees and about 276 contraband, including men, women and children. The purpose of this expedition was not mentioned in the reports, but, evidently, it was to keep the St. Johns River open up to Jacksonville. Third Federal Occupations Jacksonville was occupied by Federal troops the third time March 10th, 1863, this time by negro troops commanded by white officers, namely, First Regiment of South Carolina Volunteers (negro), Colonel T. W. Higginson, and a portion of the Second Regiment of South Carolina Volunteers (negro), Colonel Montgomery. These troops were later reinforced by two white regiments, Eighth Maine and Sixth Connecticut. On March 13th, General Finegan (C. S. A.), commanding near Jacksonville, issued the following proclamation:
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128 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA HEADQUARTERS DISTRICT OF EAST FLORIDA Camp near Jacksonville, March 13, 1863. I feel it my duty as brigadier-general commanding this district to inform the people of the district and of the State that our unscrupulous enemy has landed a large force of negroes, under command of white officers, at Jacksonville, under cover of gunboats. He is attempting to fortify the place so as to make it secure against attacks. The purpose of this movement is obvious and need not be mentioned in direct terms. It is sufficient to inspire the whole body of the people with a renewed and sterner purpose of resistance. I therefore call on such of the citizens as can possibly leave their homes to arnn and organize themselves into companies without delay and report to me. * * * Jos. Finegan, Brigadier-General Commanding. Whether General Finegan was correct in his supposition, hinted at in his proclamation, is answered in the report of General R. Saxton (U. S. A.), dated March 14, 1863, as follows: The object of this expedition was to occupy Jacksonville and make it the base of operations for the arming of negroes and securing in this way possession of the entire state of 1 lorida. It gives me pleasure to report that so far the objects of the expedition have been fully accomplished. The town is completely in our possession and many prisoners. * * It is my belief that scarcely an incident in this war has caused a greater panic throughout the whole southern coast than this raid of the colored troops in £ lorida. The negroes are collecting at Jacksonville from all quarters. Immediately upon landing the Federals began to erect fortifications as though for permanent occupation. To guard the terminus of the railroad where it entered the town, Colonel Higginson caused two forts to be erected, one on the right of the railroad, named Fort Montgomery, and one on the left, Fort Higginson. The gunboats, being provided with heavy guns of long range, commanded the country for several miles around. The Confederate troops, under General Finegan, were stationed a few miles west of Jacksonville. They consisted principally of cavalry, or mounted infantry, and were poorly provided with artillery, Skirmishing began on the day following the landing of the Federal troops, and continued more or less until Jacksonville was evacuated. General Finegan made no general attack upon the town, but confined his operations to a system
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 129 somewhat similar to that followed during the first occupation-attacking outposts, pickets, foraging parties, etc. There was some loss of life on both sides. Surgeon Meredith (C. S. A.) was killed on March 11th. On March 17th, Colonel McCormick (C. S. A.), by direction of General Finegan, notified Colonel Higginson to remove the women and children from Jacksonville within 24 hours, or that after that time they would remain in the town on his (Higginson's) responsibility. Colonel Higginson immediately ordered his wagons to convey all those who wished to leave to the brick yard church, where they were met under a flag of truce by a Confederate escort. Thus all the women and children, except a few families, were removed from Jacksonville and sent to Lake City. March 22d and 23d two white regiments arrived, Eighth Maine, Colonel John D. Rust, and the Sixth Connecticut, Colonel John L. Chatfield. Colonel Rust being the ranking officer took command of the troops here. Skirmishing now became more frequent and heavier. About this time Lt. T. E. Buckman devised the plan of mounting a cannon on a flat car, coupling on a locomotive and running it down the track to within range of Jacksonville. The railroad battery became celebrated for its effectiveness. Francis Sollee, of Jacksonviile, commanded this gun, and he was commended in the highest terms for bravery and skill in serving it. This battery figured also in the battle of Olustee afterward. The medical officer of the Eighth Maine describes the damage done by the railroad battery of the Confederates as follows :' Wednesday, March 25, 1863: At 3:30 this morning the rebels came down on the railroad and opened on the town with an 8-inch rifled gun. The first shot went through an unoccupied house next to our medical headquarters and exploded, turning us all out in a hurry. Just as I got out of doors the second one broke over our heads. The third one struck the roof of a house where a Union man and his wife were sleeping; the shell passed through the side of the house and imbedded itself eight feet in the ground without exploding. Several of us dug out the shell and found it to be an 8-inch rifle of English manufacture. They got seven of these shells into the town before our gunboats got a range on them, when they beat a retreat. After guard mounting this morning four companies of the Eighth Maine, three of the Sixth Connecticut, and three of the negro regiment started out to tear up the railroad track to prevent the rebels from
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130 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA getting near enough with their steam gun to shell us. We had a 4-inch rifle gun mounted on a small flat car and shoved it by hand. When four miles out we began to tear up the track and just then the rebels made their appearance down the track with an engine and a large 8-inch gun on a flat car and they at once opened on us. The first shot struck in the center of the track just short of where Captain McArthur and myself stood, exploded and a large piece of the butt of the shell ricochetted to the right, making a high curve, cut off the top of a tall pine tree, and fell into the ranks of Company I, Eighth Maine, who were marching in four ranks by the right shoulder shift on a piece of plank road. It struck the musket barrel of Thomas Hoole of Brunswick, Me., taking off his head. Passing to the next rank it took off the shoulder of Joseph Goodwin, of Lyman, Me.-he lived two hours. Passing to the next rank it took off the leg below the knee of another man. I soon had the ambulance at work. Hiding the piece of shell under the plank road, turning over all the planks that had blood on them, and scattering soil over the spot, we very quickly obliterated all signs of anyone being hurt. We got back to town at 3 p. m., with no further loss. Evacuation and Burning of Jacksonville The Federal troops were withdrawn from Jacksonville for the purpose of taking part in the operations against Savannah and Charleston.i Describing the evacuation, the correspondent of the New York Tribune, writing from Jacksonville under date of March 29, 1863, said: Before entering upon the details of this lamentable destruction of property, allow me to return to Hilton Head, which place I left last Thursday morning. At that time at an early hour, it was whispered around headquarters, although the utmost secrecy had been enjoined, that Jacksonville was to be evacuated by the soldiers of the National army, who had promised the loyal inhabitants protection and had assured them that the city would be held by our troops during the war. Desiring to visit this portion of the Department of the South before the grand expedition set sail, and also to witness the evacuation, I took passage on the steamer Boston and arrived here with the accompanying transports, the Convoy, the Delaware, the Cossack, and the Tillie, on Friday evening. At Hilton Head much surprise, indeed much indignation had been expressed the moment it was made known that we were to abandon this important point; not perhaps so much because it was important, but because so many loyal people would be utterly ruined by the movement. Arriving at Jacksonville, I called upon the leading officers and found that they, too, could scarcely restrain their indignation. It is an outrage, it is villainous, it will injure our cause terribly, were the most frequent expressions. It was in vain that one tried to demonstrate that
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 131 it was of the greatest importance at this moment that all the troops in this department should be concentrated for the grand conflict in Charleston or Savannah harbors. Either of these important cities taken, the whole state of Florida would be, as it were, flanked and the enemy compelled to abandon it instantly. Jacksonville was occupied on the 10th of March by a negro brigade, under the command of Colonel Higginson. What they achieved, and how admirably, I have already written you, up to as late a date as the 25th instant. Before alluding to the events of today, it remains for me to fill up the interval from the 25th to the 29th. Ten days ago General Hunter, upon representations made to him, not by Colonel Higginson, but by several loyal men of much influence, long residents of Florida, decided to reinforce Colonel Higginson with two regiments of white infantry-the Eighth Maine, Colonel Rust, and the Sixth Connecticut, Colonel Chatfield. Colonel Rust, outranking Colonel Higginson, took command of all the forces in Jacksonville. Colonel Higginson had, by the severest labor his black troops could endure, so strengthened his position that he deemed himself sufficiently strong to hold Jacksonville against all the forces the rebel General Finegan could bring to bear against it. The natural defenses of Jacksonville are very considerable. The only weak point was on the southwest, or in that portion of the city where the railroad enters it. To guard this point, Colonel Higginson erected two forts. To give range to the guns from these forts, a large forest of pine and oak trees had to be cut down and about fifty dwellings, mostly of an inferior class, destroyed. Fort Higginson not only commands the left of the railroad, but the approach on the south to Jacksonville, by the St. Johns River. All the work upon these forts was done by the black troops. I have seen about all the earthworks in Virginia, and do not hesitate to say that these hastily constructed works compare very favorably with the best ever thrown up by the Army of the Potomac. e * * e $ 4 S I am now writing on the deck of the fine transport ship, Boston. From this upper deck the scene presented to the spectator is one of most fearful magnificence. On every side dense clouds of black smoke are seen. A fine south wind is blowing immense blazing cinders right into the heart of the city. The beautiful Spanish moss, drooping so gracefully from the long avenues of splendid oaks has caught fire, and as far as the eye can reach, through these once pleasant streets, nothing but sheets of flame can be seen, running up with the rapidity of lightning to the tops of the trees and then darting off to the smallest branches. The whole city is being lapped up and devoured by this fiery blast.t One solitary woman, a horse tied to a fence between two fires, and a lean, half-starved dog are the only living inhabitants to be seen tFrom his position on the river, this correspondent quite naturally obtained an exaggerated view of the fire. Fortunately, it was not as extensive as it appeared to him.
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132 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA on the streets. Is this not war, vindictive, unrelenting war? Have we gotten up to the European standard? There must have been some understanding among the incendiaries with regard to the conflagration. At 8 o'clock the flames burst from several buildings in different parts of the city, and at a later hour still more were fired. The wind then rose to a stiff gale and the torch of the incendiary became unnecessary to increase the fire. * * * * * The Sixth Connecticut charge it upon the Eighth Maine and the Eighth Maine hurl it back upon the Sixth Connecticut. Six o'clock p. m. Mouth of the St. Johns-a fierce northeast storm is raging upon the ocean. Gunboats and transports are lying here in safety waiting until it abates. Again we are witnessing a conflagration. Some of the soldiers have gone ashore and found a fine steam sawmill at Mayport Mills, said to belong to a Union man in Maine. Much indignation is expressed on board. In regard to the burning of the city, Dr. Alfred Walton, medical officer of the Eighth Maine regiment, wrote in his diary : Sunday, March 29, 1863: Before we were ready to embark the boys began to set fire to the city and soon we had to hurry up for the smoke was getting rather uncomfortable. On my way down (fo the wharf) I ran into St. Johns church and groping through the smoke and fire I took from the altar a large guilt-bound prayer book with the inscription on the cover "St. Johns Episcopal Church, Jacksonville." Farther down on Market Street I entered a building that appeared to be some kind of office (probably the Clerk's office) and from the table or desk I took a manuscript map of the city of Jacksonville. Farther down I saw some negro soldiers setting fires and from their songs and shouting they appeared to be having a good time. *Dr. Walton returned the prayer book to St. Johns Church in 1866. The manuscript map he returned to the city in 1893.1 About six blocks was the area burned over, destroying in the neighborhood of 25 buildings, including the Episcopal Church and the Court House. While reconnoitering from a position on the river, General Finegan saw that Jacksonville was on fire in several places and that the transports were being loaded with troops. He pushed on into the town, arriving just after the departure of the last gunboat, but in time to extinguish the fire in some valuable buildings.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 133 Fourth Federal OccupationJ On January 13, 1864, President Lincoln wrote General Q. A. Gillmore (U. S. A.), commanding the Department of the South as follows: "I understand an effort is being made by some worthy gentlemen to reconstruct a loyal State government in Florida. I have given Mr. Hay a commission of major and sent him to you with some blank books and other blanks to aid in the reconstruction." Elaborate plans were made, and an expedition of more than 20 vessels, gunboats and transports, carrying in the neighborhood of 7,000 troops, under the command of General T. Seymour, left Hilton Head, S. C., for Jacksonville before daybreak, February 6, 1864. This expedition arrived at the mouth of the St. Johns River early on the morning of the next day, crossed the bar and proceeded to Jacksonville. The transport Maple Leaf was the first vessel to reach the dock, and at 3:40 p. m. (7th) began landing troops. In a short time the other transports came up. There was a small Confederate picket, 20 men, in the town and they fired on the Hunter, one of the transports, and killed one man, but were immediately forced to retire by a cavalry company that had been hastily landed from the Maple Leaf. Later in the afternoon, the U. S. gunboat Norwich went up to McGirts Creek to capture the St. Marys, a river steamer being loaded with cotton consigned to Nassau, N. P. Finding himself hemmed in, the commander of the St. Marys sank his vessel in McGirts Creek, and two days later it fell into the hands of the Federals. There was considerable friction between the Federal army and navy officials as to who should claim the prize, the army or the navy; the official reports donot indicate how the question was settled. In his official report, General Gillmore states that the object of this expedition to Florida was: 1. To procure an outlet for cotton, lumber, timber, turpentine and other products of the state of Florida. 2. To cut off one of the sources of supplies for the Confederates. 3. To obtain recruits for his colored regiments. 4. To inaugurate measures for the speedy restoration of the state to her allegiance. For the purpose of carrying out these plans, the bulk of the Federal army set out on the afternoon and evening of
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134 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA February 8th, on the march westward to Baldwin and Lake City. This movement culminated on February 20th, in the famous battle of Olustee, or Ocean Pond, where General Seymour was defeated by the Confederates under Generals Colquitt and Finegan. Thus it seems that two clauses of General Gillmore's plans, namely 2d and 4th, were practically annulled in the very beginning, General Seymour having reported a day or so before that "I am convinced that what has been said of the desire of Florida to come back now is a delusion." After its defeat at Olustee, the Federal army returned to Jacksonville. The churches and some of the largest houses were used as temporary hospitals. The floors were strewn with hay and on this the wounded soldiers were placed in rows, white and black side by side, as they were brought in from the front.k Fortifications were erected to strengthen the town against attack, and soon the arrival of reinforcements brought General Seymour's army up to 12,000 men, splendidly equipped in every department. Among these troops were six negro regiments. The Confederate forces on February 26th occupied a position on McGirts Creek at a point where the wagon road and the railroad crossed the creek, ten or twelve miles west of Jacksonville. They were now under the command of General W. M. Gardner, who, outranking General Finegan, took command after the battle of Olustee. Breastworks and stockades were erected at McGirts Creek, the post being named Camp Milton. Afterward, when the Confederates abandoned these works, the Federal officers spoke of them as magnificently constructed fortifications, beautiful in detail. March 6th, General J. Patton Anderson assumed command of the Confederate army near Jacksonville. At that time it numbered about 8,000 men, some of them poorly equipped. On March 1, 1864, General Henry (U. S. A.), with 500 cavalry and 2 pieces of artillery, left Jacksonville for the purpose of making a reconnaissance in the direction of Camp Milton. The movement developed into quite a skirmish at Cedar Creek,t six miles west of Jacksonville, lasting from 10 a. m. until 3 p. m. The Federal loss was one killed, four tThere are several creeks near Jacksonville called Cedar Creek. The one here mentioned is a branch of McGirts Creek.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 135 wounded, and five prisoners. The Confederates lost Captain Winston Stevens, killed; other casualties not reported. During March, Palatka was occupied by a strong force sent from Jacksonville, estimated by General Anderson at 1,500 men. St. Augustine and the eastern side of the St. Johns were also in possession of the Federal army, together with the north side of the river below Jacksonville, with a battery at Yellow Bluff. There was constant and uninterrupted communication between these posts and the base at Jacksonville until the navigation of the St. Johns River was made extremely hazardous by the Confederates, who, on the night of March 30, 1864, placed 12 torpedoes, each containing 70 pounds of small-grain powder, in the river channel near Mandarin Point. At 4 a. m., April 1st, the U. S. transport Maple Leaf, returning to Jacksonville from Palatka with the camp equipment of three regiments, struck one of these torpedoes and sank in seven minutes. The Confederates then boarded her and burned her to the water's edge. On April 16th, the Hunter, another U. S. transport, returning from Picolata with quartermaster stores, struck a torpedo and sank immediately, near the wreck of the Maple Leaf. One man was drowned. Again, on May 9th, the U. S. armed transport Harriet A. Weed was destroyed at the same place, with the loss of five men. Thus within 40 days three vessels were destroyed at this point, with nine torpedoes still in the river. Farther up the river, at a place called Horse Landing, Lieutenant Letford, of Captain Dickison's command, captured and burned the U. S. steamer Columbine, killing 25 and capturing seven commissioned officers, 9 seamen, and 47 enlisted negroes, himself sustaining no loss whatever. On April 2, 1864, General Henry made another reconnaissance in the direction of Cedar Creek, and in the skirmishing that followed had 8 men wounded. The Confederate casualties were not given in the reports. These forces, the greatest number mobilized in Florida during the war, remained facing each other until the middle of April, when heavy drafts were made on both Federal and Confederate armies in this vicinity, for service in the armies of Sherman and Grant, Lee and Johnston. Beginning with the 8th of April and continuing thereafter until the middle of May, transports loaded with Federal troops left Jacksonville almost daily. The Federal forces in this vicinity were
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136 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA finally reduced to about 2,500 or 3,000 men, largely negroes, the bulk of which occupied Jacksonville. Afterward, reinforcements came, but did not remain long. The Confederate troops began leaving April 14th, for assignment elsewhere, until only one regiment and two battalions of cavalry and three companies of artillery remained in East Florida. General Anderson then changed his headquarters to Lake City, leaving in front of Jacksonville the Second Florida Cavalry and four companies of the Fifth Battalion Florida Cavalry, to oppose the overwhelming force in the strongly fortified position at Jacksonville. On the night of May 31-June 1, a force of 2,459 Federal troops left Jacksonville in two columns, to attack Camp Milton. The small Confederate detachment occupying the post at that time was surprised and driven from Cedar Creek and Camp Milton back up6n Baldwin. A portion of the works at Camp Milton was burned or otherwise destroyed, but the next day the Confederates advanced, skirmishing with the advance guard of the enemy, and reoccupied Camp Milton. Overwhelmingly outnumbered, this remnant of Florida cavalry performed miracles. It met and defeated raiding parties, one of which was almost annihilated in the streets of Gainesville by Dickison and his men, aided by citizens of the town; attacked and captured outposts and pickets; threatened the Federal communications on the St. Johns River, and was nearly successful in the attempt to obstruct the navigation of the river below Jacksonville in the vicinity of Yellow Bluff, by placing torpedoes and mines in the channel. That these harassing tactics came near causing the evacuation of Jacksonville by the Federal army is indicated in the following communication from Federal headquarters at Hilton Head to General William Birney, commanding at Jacksonville, dated July 16, 1864, to-wit: I am instructed by the major-general commanding to inform you that the number of troops now in your command is considerably greater than that section of the department demands in a military point of view. If you cannot properly guard the St. Johns River you must prepare to make St. Augustine your base, keeping Jacksonville and Picolata as advanced posts, if practicable. In case of immediate danger of the St. Johns River being rendered impracticable for navigation by reason of the enemy gaining possession of points.along the banks or by reason of their planting a great number of torpedoes in the river, the communication from Jacksonville to St. Augustine must be by ferry across
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 137 the river, which you must provide in season, and by land across the country. All of this was in face of the fact that Jacksonville at that time was protected by inclosed works, redoubts and lunettes, connected by rifle pits and manned with eight batteries of the most improved artillery. There was considerable skirmishing during the latter half of July in the neighborhood of Trout Creek, and near Baldwin and Camp Milton, which the Confederates again evacuated and reoccupied. By this time they had dwindled to 216 cavalry, 40 mounted infantry, and a battery of 4 guns. When a force comprising 3 negro regiments and 1 white regiment of infantry, 1 cavalry regiment, and 4 pieces of artillery was sent out from Jacksonville against Camp Milton, the remnant of Florida troops permanently evacuated that post; this was on July 26th, 1864. Insofar as armed opposition was concerned, this ended the war in the vicinity of Jacksonville, but occasional Federal raiding parties continued to be sent down the State until the surrender in the spring of 1865. In the meantime, the question of Florida's return to the Union was revived, although nothing ever came of it further than the calling of a convention by Unionists within the Federal lines, to be held in Jacksonville in May, 1864, for the purpose of selecting delegates to the national convention soon to be held in Baltimore. Two delegates were appointed from St. Augustine, one from Fernandina, and three from Jacksonville. The Jacksonville delegation was: John W. Price, Paran Moody, and John S. Sammis.a It will be remembered that a similar convention was held during the first Federal occupation of Jacksonville when the drastic "Declaration of Rights" was directed against the Southern people. Bibliography, Chapter XII aMemoirs of Florida, Fleming; bO. L. Keene in published account; cRecords of Florida Historical Society; dStatcd by residents who were here at the time; eBook of Jacksonville, Paul Brown: fWar of the Rebellion--Official Records of Union and Confederate Armies, Series 1, Vol. VI; g"Old Citizen" in Jacksonville Tri-weekly Sun, Jan. 27, 1876; hNewspaper clipping; iWar of the Rebellion, etc., Series 1, Vol. XIV; jDo, Vol. XXXV; kFlorida Gazetteer, Hawks, 1871; lDiary of A. Walton, medical officer 8th Maine Reg., pub. in Jacksonville Evening Telegram, Oct. 30, 1893; nzFrom accounts published in the early local newspapers.
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138 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA CHAPTER XIV REORGANIZATION AND RECONSTRUCTION (Political) Effort to Restore Civil Government (1865-1866) Judge William Marvin was appointed provisional governor of Florida by President Andrew Johnson in July, 1865. On August 2, Governor Marvin addressed a meeting at Jacksonville and the next day issued a proclamation, calling an election of delegates to a convention which would be empowered to establish a new State government for Florida in accordance with the President's amnesty proclamation. Some of the Southern people took the oath required and others secured the special pardons offered by it, so that the class of people entitled to vote in this election comprised Southerners as well as those that had sympathized with the North throughout the war; many were Republicans, but all were bona-fide white residents of Florida, as one of the requirements of the President's proclamation was that the applicant for registration must have had the qualifications to vote at the time the State withdrew from the Union.a The oath was taken by 7042 persons in Florida. The election was held in October and the convention of 56 delegates assembled at Tallahassee late in that month. The constitution adopted by this convention provided for an election in November following, for governor and other State and County officers, legislature, judges, and members of Congress. In the November election David S. Walker, of Tallahassee, was elected governors The Legislature elected in November met at Tallahassee in December, 1865. It was composed of the same class of citizens as those of the convention. Governor Marvin addressed it with an appeal to lay aside revengeful feelings and institute a just and reasonable policy in the re-establishment of the State government. He was opposed to granting suffrage to the negro so soon after emancipation.a Governor Walker was now inaugurated, and in addressing the Legislature he recommended a policy of conciliation similar to that of Governor Marvin. He, too, was opposed to
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1874 FREEDMEN'S BANK BUILDING (S. W. corner of Main and Forsyth Streets) Ale . |, ing faced Main Street, then called Pine. To the right a glimpse of the three-story Tremont Hotel (where the Williams building is now) is obtained. Both buildings were destroyed in the fire of August 18, 1891. The oak trees at the left are at Forsyth and Laura Streets and the buildings beyond are dwellings where the Barnett National Bank is now situated.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 139 granting suffrage to the negro at this time. The Thirteenth Amendment was ratified and the negro was granted certain civil rights, but the Legislature did not enfranchise him.a The vital question before the Legislature in 1866 was the Fourteenth Amendment, which had already passed the national Congress. Governor Walker recommended its rejection, as it virtually disfranchised most of the intelligent people of the South. The Legislature refused to ratify it. b The record left by this body of men stands out against the screen of subsequent events as a conscientious effort to bring about the reorganization of the State government in the only sensible way. They saw with unclouded vision the chaos that would result if the negro were given the vote at this time, and their logic and foresight were thoroughly verified later. What they did was in accordance with the policy outlined by Abraham Lincoln and followed by Andrew Johnson, as was repeatedly pointed out by President Johnson in his numerous vetoes of Congressional Bills designed to bring about political upheavals in the South. The people of Florida were just becoming reconciled to the new state of affairs, when the State was invaded by the Freedmen's Bureau under the protection of the armed forces of the United States. Freedmen's Bureau (1865-74) The Federal Congress passed an act establishing the Freedmen's Bureau in March, 1865, before the close of the war. The purpose of the legislation was to furnish provisions, clothing, shelter, and fuel to the needy and dependent freedmen and their families. One of the provisions of the act was the allotment of abandoned or confiscated land, 40 acres, under special conditions, to worthy freedmen.a Out of this grew the famous "Forty acres and a mule" lure that was so often dangled before the eyes of the bewildered negro by his so-called benefactors, and always to his undoing. This act was to remain in force one year. Nothing much was done by the Bureau the first year; but in the meantime the halls of the Federal Congress were reverberating with the thunder of radical leaders, who saw in this legislation the groundwork on which to build their efforts to force their doctrines on the South. So in February,
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140 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1866, just before the expiration of the original act, a Congressional amendment extended it indefinitely until repealed and also vastly enlarged the field of operations by the Bureau. It was made a branch of the War Department, with instructions to establish military sub-districts in command of army officers to enforce its dictates. When the Bill was sent to President Johnson for signature, he vetoed it. He called attention to the fact that the South was making good progress in re-establishing law and order, and he could see no necessity for virtually a military dictatorship here at that time, but Congress passed it over his veto. a Thus was the South launched upon her decade of troubles, which were imposed upon her, as we shall see, not in the spirit of patriotism, but purely from partisan motives. Among the added functions of the Freedmen's Bureau was the establishment of Churches, schools, and other institutions for the freedmen in the South. On the face of it this was a worthy move, but it developed that these institutions became the means for the spread of pernicious social doctrine among the negroes. The ministerial brethren and the school teachers that came down from the North to minister to the moral and educational welfare of the freedmen, were, most of them, over-zealous people who lacked the ability to foresee the certain result of radical teachings at a time like this; and it was their work of attempting to put the negro on an equal social basis with his former master that produced the bitterest and most dangerous influences of the time. As early as 1866, Jacksonville had three negro schools, four teachers and 530 pupils; and there was established at Magnolia Springs a hospital with a staff of several physicians and a number of nurses.b Operation of banks to care for the freedmen's savings and teach them thrift, was another piase of the Bureau's added activities. To start with, these banks were operated along legitimate lines with safe securities, but these were soon replaced by worthless stocks and valueless mortgages. The Freedmen's banks became the beacon lights that drew the unsuspecting darky into the fold, where he became the prey of the political machine officially called the Freedmen's Bureau. The whole fabric degenerated into a wildcat scheme to defraud the negro, and it collapsed in 1874, when popular clamor in the North demanded an investigation of its affairs. °
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 141 The larger of the two Freedmen's banks in Florida was at Jacksonville-the other was at Tallahassee. The Jacksonville bank opened its doors in March, 1866,b occupying offices at the corner of Bay and Ocean Streets, in the Hoeg building. In 1870 it was moved to a new four-story brick building at the southwest corner of Pine (Main) and Forsyth Streets. This was ever afterward known as the Freedmen's Bank building, until destroyed in the fire of 1891. About the time of its removal, the name was changed to National Savings and Trust Company. N. C. Dennett was the first cashier; he swindled a colored man, James Aberdeen, out of some of his money and was removed for incompetency. W. L. Coan was bank manager. Coan was continuously active in local politics and held a number of city offices. d This bank failed in June, 1874, with $39,400 on deposit and 1608 depositors, nearly all negroes. b The Freedmen's Bureau was the clearing house through which radiated most of the activities of the radicals. The failure of the Freedmen's bank had an important bearing on the political situation here, since the unsophisticated negro then awakened to the fact that he had been swindled by an institution organized, as he supposed, for his protection and welfare. b So increased the growing tide that came to flood in 1876, when George F. Drew was elected governor, and the State returned to home ruled This record of the Freedmen's Bureau overlaps two other regimes, that, although backed by the same influences, and interwoven in a tangled maze with the activities of the Bureau, as well as with each other, were yet distinct political phases and should be considered as such; namely, the socalled "reconstruction period" (1867-8) and the "carpet-bagger" regime (1868-76). The "Reconstruction" Period ° (1867-8) The act known as the "Reconstruction Act" was officially entitled "An Act to provide for the more efficient government of the rebel States". Alleging that no legal State governments or adequate protection for life and property existed in ten Southern States, including Florida, it provided for the division of those States into five military districts, under the command of army officers assigned thereto by the President,
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142 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA with undefined powers to reconstruct the State governments. When so appointed, these commanders were empowered with unlimited and absolute authority. They were endowed with legislative, judicial, and executive power. The President himself could give them no instructions. They could abolish charters, extend franchises, stay the collection of debts, levy taxes, impose fines and inflict penalties, authorize the issue of bonds and the contraction of State indebtedness, set aside the decisions of the courts, remove all officers and fill all vacancies without the form of an election, and try persons by commissions selected by themselves.t President Johnson vetoed the Bill in toto, pointing out that it was an unconstitutional, unnecessary, and vicious piece of legislation. His criticism of it was a masterpiece of logic and truth. It was passed over the President's veto March 2, 1867, thereby becoming an act of Congress. The iron heel was presumably now firmly upon the South, but Congress in its haste had not reckoned with the effect of placing the appointment of the district commanders in the hands of an honest man and true patriot. President Johnson selected the fairest men in the Federal army to fill these posts. An act amendatory of the original act, likewise passed over the President's veto March 23, 1867, defined the methods of reconstructing the State governments. Before registration the applicant must have subscribed an oath that he had not participated, either directly or indirectly, in any rebellion against the United States, nor given aid or comfort to its enemies. This, of course, debarred most of the Southern white men, and at the same time admitted the freedmen to registration. After the completion of such registration an election should be held prior to September 1st, 1867, of delegates to a convention, the duty of which was the framing of a constitution for the establishment of civil government in the State. Provision was also made for the usual machinery of an election. Inspectors were required to take the "ironclad oath".a In Florida the registration showed 11,148 whites and 15,434 colored entitled to vote in accordance with the rules prescribed.c The Convention met at Tallahassee January t"Uxnio-Dsirunion-Reunion", Coo, p. 480.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 143 20, 1868. Of the 46 delegates comprising it, 43 were Republicans, and of these 18 were colored.b As might be expected, the delegates soon split into factions, when there came about a "serio-comic presentation of politics" the record of which makes history ludicrous. The constitution, known as the constitution of 1868, eventually framed by this convention, granted universal suffrage. It provided for election by the people of governor, lieutenant-governor, legislature, and constables; the judges and all other State officers were to be appointed by the governor and confirmed by the State senate. The legislature elected under the provisions of the constitution, met in June and ratified the Fourteenth Amendment. On July 4th, 1868, the ceremony of the transfer of government was accomplished, from the military into the hands of the civil authorities, which proved to be the agents of the Freedmen's Bureau, and a class of persons newly arrived from the North and called by the Southern people "Carpet-baggers". b Florida was a sub-district of the Third Military District as constituted by the "Reconstruction" act. Colonel John T. Sprague was appointed the military governor of the State. His headquarters were in Jacksonville most of the time. Colonel Sprague was a gentleman of pleasant manners and conservative views, and though invested with autocratic power, he sought no opportunity to exercise it in a harsh or oppressive manner. He was not a stranger in this community, for he had been here before as an officer in the Seminole war, when he became acquainted with many of the residents. And now, when he saw the injustice heaped upon the Southern people, he did everything that he could to lessen their burdens. Florida, indeed, was fortunate in having him as the military governor. The character of this officer was the softening factor in the relative lack of animosity of the local people toward the military, in contrast with their utter distrust of the Northern political forces operating here after the war. When the time came for the U. S. troops to leave Jacksonville, the Southern people here, sent a petition to Washington asking that they be retained for the purpose of protection.d
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144 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The "Carpet-Bagger" Regime (1868-1876) From the pen of Judge Jeremiah S. Black,t of Pennsylvania, comes this description of the "carpet-bagger", who he was and what he did :tt The people (Southern) would not have been wholly crushed (politically) either by the soldier or the negro, if both had not been used to fasten upon them the domination of another class of persons which was altogether unendurable. These were called carpet-baggers, not because the word is euphonius, but because they have no other name whereby they are known among the children of men. They were unprincipled adventurers who sought their fortunes in the South by plundering the disarmed and defenseless people; some of them were the dregs of the Federal army-the meanest of the camp followers; many were fugitives from Northern justice; the best of them were those who went down after peace, ready for any deed of shame that was safe and profitable. These, combining with a few treacherous 'scalawags',§ and some leading negroes to serve as decoys for the rest, and backed by the power of the general government, became the strongest body of thieves that ever pillaged a people. Their moral grade was far lower, and yet they were much more powerful than the robber bands that infested Germany after the close of the Thirty Years' War. They swarmed over all the States, from the Potomac to the Gulf, and settled in hordes, not with the intent to remain there, but merely to feed on the substance of a prostrate and defenseless people. They took whatever came within their reach, intruding themselves into all private corporations, assumed the function of all offices, including the courts of justice, and in many places even'ran the churches'. By force and fraud, they either controlled all elections, or else prevented elections from being held. They returned sixty of themselves to one Congress and ten or twelve of the most ignorant and venal among them were at the same time thrust into the Senate. This false representation of a people by strangers and enemies, who had not even a bona-fide residence among them, was the bitterest of all mockeries. There was no show of truth or honor about it. The pretended representative was always ready to vote for any measure that would oppress and enslave his so-called constituents; his hostility was unconcealed, and he lost no opportunity to do them injury. Under all these wrongs and indignities, the Caucasian men of the South were prudent, if not patient. No brave people accustomed to be free ever tJudge Black was a Union statesman and jurist. of the time and of the same State as Thaddeus Stevens. tj t"nion-Disunion-Reunion", Cox, p. 624-5. i A Southern native white man who bolted the Democratic party and became a Re. publican after the war for the sole purpose of a selfish gain from politics, was called a "scaltawag'" and in tea eyes of the true Southerner he was a turncoat, a recreant to hig rac
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 145 endured oppression so peacefully or so wisely. * * * Southern men 'made haste slowly' to recover their liberties. They could not break the shackles of usurped control; some of the links gradually rusted and fell away of themselves. The gross impolicy of desolating the fairest half of the country impressed itself more and more upon the Northern mind, with the result that an investigation was demanded of the Freedmen's Bureau and its activitieswhich ended in the collapse of this political machine, the power that gave the carpet-bagger life. The following is only an incident, but it is typical: Yellow Bluff Fraudt Osborn, who was anxious to be returned to the United States Senate, determined to leave no stone unturned to secure as many members of the State Senate as possible, preparatory to the expiration of his term. Duval County, as well as Leon, had heretofore opposed from the beginning of reconstruction, Osborn and his whole gang. A Senator must be had from this county at all hazards, the will of the majority to the contrary notwithstanding, and this request of the chief was urgent and mandatory. The ring assembled in secret conclave in Jacksonville and discussed the probabilities and improbabilities of securing a nomination at the hands of the Republican nominating convention, by a free use of money and bad whiskey; and if that should fail, the next step was to secure John R. Scott, colored, who was one of the leading lights among the colored men of that county, and have him to understand that they were in favor of him, in order that if he was nominated for the Senate, they could more easily make a combination with the Democrats to defeat him and elect one after their own heart, Horatio Jenkins, Jr. Should they fail in this, or should the canvass look squally for them, then fraud upon the ballot box was to be committed and Jenkins counted in; and should they fail in this, Jenkins was to contest the seat of Scott by making a combination with the Democrats in the Senate, touching the safety of their minority in the Senate, and thereby oust Scott and seat Jenkins. As to the true intention of the conspirators, Scott was unaware. Let us see if they were successful in any of these propositions. John R. Scott, now ambitious for Senatorial honors, was worked up to fever heat to secure the prize. The convention met, and it was at once observed that W. H. Christy, white Republican, who did not belong to the Osborn gang, was the choice of the convention. The anti-ring delegates held a caucus, which was attended by Scott as one of them. Scott talked and advised with the other delegates, and assured them that he was with them for the nomination of Christy. He begged the caucus to make him chairman of the convention, which was done, and in t"Carpet-Dag Rule in Florida", John Wallace, p. 12830.
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146 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA a few minutes the convention was called to order. Scott, as prearranged, was made chairman. Christy was nominated by one of the anti-ring delegates, and instantly the carpet-baggers Dockray, Jenkins, and Cheney presented the name of Scott as Christy's opponent, as agreed upon before. The anti-ring delegates were astonished, and rushed to Scott to have him withdraw his name, but he did not seem to understand what they meant. Balloting commenced, and resulted in the nomination of Christy by a large majority, but Scott ruled that the resolution was unintelligible, and ordered a new ballot, which was had, and again Christy received a large majority. Some informalities, which Scott contended compelled him to rule that the first ballot was unintelligible, happened this time all right, but he ruled just the opposite to what he did before, so that a third ballot was ordered, which again resulted in the nomination of Christy. The ring now gave up the ghost and abandoned their proposition. Scott and Dan Mclnnis (both colored) were nominated for the Assembly. The ring, expecting that they would have Scott to deal with, when it turned out that they had Christy, hesitated for a while to attempt to defraud him at the ballot box, and invented another plan, and that was to get Jenkins to the lower house, which would give him influence to be returned to the Legislature two years hence, and also to lead in the impeachment of Harrison Reed. A few days after the convention one of Osborn's friends said to Dan Mclnnis, 'McInnis, I am authorized by Colonel Osborn to say to you that if you will simply withdraw from your place on the Legislative ticket and let Jenkins go in your place, he will give you five thousand dollars, and give you also the regular pay; we do not ask you to take an active part in his favor.' Mclnnis replied, 'Tell Osborn to go to h-1 with his money; I have my trade to make my living from'. Having failed to defeat the will of the majority in these two efforts, they resorted to the Democrats for success. They entered into an arrangement with H. H. Hoeg and Miles Price, who were ambitious for Legislative honors, and members of the Democratic party, Hoeg and Price being backed by a very small minority of the Democrats of the county in the arrangement, to the effect that a ticket with Horatio Jenkins, Jr., for Senator, and H. H. Hoeg and Miles Price for the Assembly, should be run in opposition to the regular Republican ticket, Hoeg and Price to furnish the money to run the campaign, except $1000, which Jenkins was to contribute, which, according to the statement afteItards of Hoeg's accountant, they did to over $4000. The Democrats, on the day of the election, pretty much all voted for Christy, as did the (conservative) Republicans; and according to the count, Christy, Scott and Mclnnis were elected by more than two-thirds vote of the county. The county board of canvassers (judge of probate, clerk, and a justice), after throwing out irregularities, etc., certified to the Secretary of State that the Christy ticket was elected by 825 majority. The day of the election, the ring, with what following they could muster, went down to Yellow i
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 147 Blufft precinct, an obscure little village, to vote, thus laying the foundation for the fraud afterwards perpetrated. Yellow Bluff proper had about 80 votes, but the ring had invented a method by which a minority could be transformed into a majority without votes or the knowledge or consent of the voter. They waylaid the Inspector from this precinct, who had been intrusted with the ballot box to deliver to the County Clerk's office, and getting him drunk, broke it open, took out and destroyed the returns made by the Inspectors and substituted one of their own manufacture, with votes for the other ticket to correspond with the return-the same being made to give Jenkins, Hoeg, and Price small majorities. Re-sealing the box, it was conveyed to the Clerk's office, and the demand made for its count; but the canvassers failed to see it, and threw it out. When the legislature met, Christy took his seat, but he was permitted to hold it only three days, when he was ousted and Jenkins seated in his place. The Osborn referred to was Thomas W. Osborn, who came to Florida as the head of the Freedmen's Bureau in this State. He was the originator of the notorious "Lincoln Brotherhood" among the negroes.e Florida had her share of "carpet-baggers" and Jacksonville her full quota. Most of them arrived between 1868 and 1870, with military prefixes to their names, though many of them hardly knew the difference between a cartridge and a cannon ball. Some came as "professional" men. As a class their activities here were within the meaning of Judge Black's general description. When it was clear that their day was drawing to a close most of the "carpet-baggers" packed their luggage and disappeared in the direction of the northern horizon. Some lingered awhile and then left. But few remained permanently.d All Northerners Not Carpet-Baggers To leave the mind impressed with the idea that every Northern man in Florida during this period was a carpetbagger or an attache of the Freedmen's Bureau would be gross injustice to those representing the conservative and best element of the North who came down seeking bona-fide residence and legitimate investment and pursuit; some of them were wealthy people seeking health. This type is tNow NOw Be*rn. a
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148 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA usually lost sight of in the overwhelming preponderance of political adventurers and fanatics; but it was here and the thread of its helpful influence is found woven into many of the enterprises that contributed heavily to the recovery of the State from the depression following the war. BiblIography, Chapter XFV a"'union-Dl)sunlonoReunion, Three Decades of Federal Legislation" S. S. Cox, 1885. The author of this work was a member of the U. S. Congress before, during, and after the war between the States; his information was first-hand and he writes from personal knowledge. b"Civil War and Reconstruction in Florida". W. W. Davis, 1910. c"History of Florida", G. R. Fairbanks. dStatements of old citizens who passed through this period in Jacksonville and Florida. d"Carpet-Bag Rule in Florida, The Inside Workings of the Reconstruction of Civil Government in Florida after the Close of the War", John Wallace (colored), 1885. Though crude in expression this ia remarkable book; it cove in detail the subject indicated in the title *
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 149 CHAPTER XV REVIVAL OF BUSINESS (1865-1875) Let us go back to the end of the war and follow the progress of the old residents of Jacksonville in the revival of their pursuits of life amidst the distracting influences of the "Reconstruction", of which the preceding chapter is only an outline and a brief one at that. Upon the formal surrender of the Florida troops on May 20, 1865, the different organizations of Confederates disbanded and those that had enlisted from Jacksonville and their families began to return. The railroad from Baldwin to Jacksonville had been torn up and from that point many of them had to walk, ladies and children as well as men. To these returning citizens Jacksonville presented a heartrending sight, as the desolating effects of war and decay were apparent on every side. The streets were littered with the trunks of trees that had been felled as a barricade against the Confederate cavalry which now and then came in close to the town. Ruins of buildings burned; broken-down fences and neglected yards; dilapidated appearance of once neatly painted dwellings-all were depressing to those who sought their former homes. And worst of all, the best and largest dwellings that had escaped the Federal burning in 1863, were occupied by United States officers and troops, in some instances by negro troops, and when the owners applied for possession, many of them learned that their property had been confiscated and sold, the purchasers in some cases being their former neighbors and false friends. Few of the exConfederates could provide for the immediate redemption of their property; with the most of them it was a question of keeping body and soul together, and they set to work building cheap shelters for themselves and their families. There was but one sawmill in operation in this vicinity and lumber was sold at an exorbitant price; there was only one store in the town besides the suttlers' stores. The former stores and warehouses on Bay Street were occupied for Federal army purposes as supply depots and some of them as barracks for the troops.
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150 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Jacksonville had been occupied continuously by Federal forces since February 7, 1864, and under their protecting wing many negroes had collected here from surrounding districts, expecting to be fed and clothed at the expense of the general government, The former residents on their return found their ex-slaves and servants walking the streets of Jacksonville imbued with the idea that they did not have to work. Their demeanor had changed, too, from one of respectful obedience to that of insolence, especially on the part of the women-not all, for some of the older generation remained faithful to their former masters and as elsewhere in the South were cared for through the coming years.a Confronted by all these conditions, business destroyed, property gone, and denied the rights of citizenship, these war-worn residents did not sink into a state of lassitude. In a patient, manly way they set to work to obtain a living and to collect what little remained to them after a desolating war. Little by little they got together what they could. In time a few of the old merchants brought in goods and opened stores. Business revival crept slowly onward during 1866 and into 1867. With the peace the privately owned steamboats that had survived crept from their hiding places and again appeared on the St. Johns. Several sawmills were now in operation, and here and there the hum of small industry could be heard.a Northern capital had already arrived seeking legitimate investment in lands and sawmills ; tourists, too, braved the tedious journey south and began to come in numbers.a So it may be said by the fall of 1867, Jacksonville had started on the road to business revival. Military Occupation of Jacksonville After the close of the war the Federal troops were retained at Jacksonville for the purpose of maintaining order during the process of re-establishing the civil government in Florida. This had been practically accomplished when the amendment to the Freedmen's Bureau act provided for their retention, and in 1867 the "Reconstruction" act delayed their withdrawal until the spring of 1869. Jacksonville, therefore, was continuously occupied by armed forces of the United States for four years after peace. The close of the war found principally colored troops here. The earthworks at the brick yard in West LaVilla were gar-
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 151 risoned by a negro guard. These negroes were zealous and pompous in challenging all comers that had to have passes; but their education was limited and an old Confederate pass or paper after "wise" scrutiny would usually be effective. There was a large garrison of white and colored troops in the southwestern edge of Brooklyn and companies of soldiers were also stationed in the city. Gradually company after company of the colored troops was withdrawn, until practically none but white troops remained to patrol the town.c The white soldiers not only were not disposed to annoy or irritate the ex-Confederates, but in time seem to have developed a dislike for the colored citizens hereabout. On the night of February 26, 1869,i United States white troops formed into squads under sergeants and corporals and marched into town of their own accord. Wherever negroes were seen on the streets the command, "Halt; Ready; Aim; Fire!" was given. Within a short time the volleys could be heard in many places in the then small city. The frightened and fleeing negroes sought refuge in the woods and under the wharves, and the streets during the remainder of the night and the next day were bare of colored citizens. The patrolling and shooting caused intense excitement. A negro was found dead on the sidewalk on West Bay Street near Hogan Street, but the soldiers said their cartridges were blanks and denied killing him. Sensational accounts were sent north about the affairs and soon afterward the military occupation of Jacksonville ceased, the last of the United States troops being withdrawn April 6, 1869. Jacksonville in 1869 The estimated population of the town was about 6,000, not including the suburbs. Riverside had just been platted and that with Brooklyn were the suburbs southwest of the city. LaVilla was immediately west, situated on an island formed by the courses of two creeks. East Jacksonville was then called Scottsville, and beyond that Wyoming. The hotels were St. James; Taylor House, corner of Market and Bay Streets; Price House, close to the railroad depot; Cowart House; Union House; Florida House; Rochester House; St. Johns House, together with four or five large boarding houses. These were all filled to overflowing in the winter months.d
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152 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA In the period 1868-70, a great deal of building was done. The St. James Hotel was built. New railroad depot and wharves were erected, together with a number of dwellings of the better class. Besides these, many cheaper houses were built in LaVilla and Brooklyn. The river was beginning to look like old times with vessels at the lumber docks and steamboats coming and going. On the whole the fall of 1870 found Jacksonville going ahead in a business way. Fire of December 19, 1870 About 7 p. m. December 19, 1870, fire broke out in a wooden building on the wharf back of Fairbanks's store on the south side of Bay Street between Pine (Main) and Laura. The lower portion of the building was occupied by M. W. Drew as a grain and hay warehouse and the upper part by R. W. Davis who conducted a mattress factory. The fire started in the mattress factory and the building was soon a burning mass. The flames spread rapidly to the nearby buildings and with the exception of the Hazeltine building at the southeast corner of Bay and Laura Streets and the eastern half of a building at the southwest corner of Bay and Pine, everything from the south side of Bay Street to the river between Pine and Laura was destroyed. In the meantime the fire jumped across Bay Street and reduced to ashes everything in the block bounded by Bay, Laura, Forsyth and Pine (Main), except the new Freedmen's bank building at the southwest corner of Pine and Forsyth and one or two small houses at the other end of the block. Among those burned out were the "Florida Union" newspaper plant, C. Drew's book store and printing plant, S. B. Hubbard's and R. T. Masters's hardware stores.f Jacksonville's Volunteer Fire Department, comprising several companies, had just been organized; this fire furnished a real test and it got away from them. The Fagan-Carlin Murder One Saturday night in the winter of 1871-2, Mr. and Mrs. Fagan left their home three miles northeast of the city to come into town for groceries, leaving their two little girls with Mrs. Fagan's sister, Miss Rosa Carlin. Two young men, William C. and Henry Scott, boarded with the Fagan family.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 153 That night after the Fagans left the house the two little girls and Miss Carlin were murdered with an axe, for the purpose, it was supposed, of robbing a drawer of money secreted by Fagan, but known to the murderers. The Scott boys were arrested on circumstantial evidence. Blood spots on their clothing were analyzed by Dr. A. S. Baldwin and pronounced human blood. The trial lasted three weeks; every day the court room on the third floor of the Freedmen's bank building was crowded with spectators, for this murder had created a profound sensation throughout the community. J. P. C, Emmons, J. B. C. Drew, and B. B. Andrews were the prosecuting attorneys, while defending the case were J. J. Finley and W. R. Arno. These old-time lawyers were then in vigorous manhood and their arguments before the jury won wide distinction, especially that of Mr. Drew. T. T. Long was the judge, and H. H. Hoeg was foreman of the trial jury. The Scotts were convicted; William was hanged and his brother Henry was sentenced to life imprisonment, but he died in less than two years after the sentence. For many years this stood as the most sensational murder case in Duval County.g *In the past 60 years, record to 1924, there have been four legal executions of white men in Duval County, namely: William C. Scott, as recorded above. William Keen, hanged February 27, 1874, for the murder of William Valentine. The murder took place on a boat near Mandarin, Keen's motive being robbery. Otis D. Smith, hanged July 11, 1909', for the murder of his sister in Jacksonville during a quarrel. Will Alexander, hanged May 3, 1912, for the murder of Jack Sumner in a barroom in Jacksonville. 1872-1875 Jacksonville in the period 1872-75 was described as a thriving little city. Bay Street was lined a portion of the way with creditable brick stores, two, and in a few cases, three stories high, and the merchants carried good stocks. The principal industry was the lumber business. Except hay, grain, and lime nearly all of the goods sold here at that time came from New York. *A friendliness has always existed between Jacksonville and New York, both in business and in sentiment. When Jacksonville appealed for help in the yellow fever epidemic of
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154 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1888 and again after the fire that destroyed the city in 1901, the people of New York City responded with an open-hearted generosity that should never be forgotten by the people of Jacksonville-even in the years to come when the generation that knew those distressing calamities will have passed away. By 1875, three large hotels had been built here and about every fourth house was a boarding house. The railroad accommodations were two incoming and two outgoing passenger trains daily. Published here were two weekly, one semi-weekly and two tri-weekly newspapers. A lot on Bay Street in the business part of town was valued at $10 a front foot.g The financial panic that swept the country in 1873 was felt in Jacksonville and there was a slowing-down in business for a while, but principally in the lumber business. The mills did not close, but their output was much reduced. Though building on a small scale continued, capital held back awaiting the restoration of confidence. h This came in 1874-75 when began the remarkable era of hotel building to care for the constantly increasing tourist travel. In this period new industries were introduced and wholesale houses carrying large stocks of groceries, provisions and dry goods were established. At the close of 1875 most of the Southern residents had gotten on their feet again in a business way; the prostration following the war had about disappeared in this respect, but the political situation was still controlled by alien politicians. The Congressional election of November 3, 1874, shows how Jacksonville stood politically at that time, when Joshua T. Walls (negro) polled 956 votes against 492 for J. J. Finley, Southern Democrat and prominent Floridian. This vote included East Jacksonville and LaVilla. The final awaking of the negro with respect to the Freedmen's Bureau activities and his consequent waning interest in political matters furnished an opening for the Democrats for the restoration of home rule.a This was accomplished in large measure by the elections in 1876. Bibliography, Chapter XV aAs stated by residents whose information was first-hand; bReports of Col. John T. Sprague; cW. W. Douglass, resident of Jacksonville; dFlorida and the South, Brinton; ePublished account by "Old Citizen" in 1876; fRecords of Dr. A. S. Baldwin: gNewspaper account; hLocal press of the period; iDate furnished by U. S. War Department. 9*
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA PART I CHRONOLOGICAL RECORD 1876 TO 1924 The importance of a local event is largely relative to the population of the place; occurrences that 40 years ago shook the town with excitement would maybe pass today without general notice by the city. Part II is a chronological record of outstanding events in the life of the town and the city; it is not a parade of excitements, calamities, fires, and set-backs, but a record of those unusual events and epochs that cannot be assembled under subject heads for chapter order, though of sufficient importance to the period in which they occurred to become a part of Jacksonville's history. This record, except where otherwise indicated, was extracted from the local newspapers forming almost a complete chain from 1876 down to date, all of which have been examined, namely: Tri-weekly Sun, January to July, 1876. Sun and Press, June, 1877, to May, 1878. Florida Dispatch, January, 1879, to November, 1881. Daily Times, November, 1881, to February, 1883, Times-Union, February, 1883, to June, 1887. News-Herald, July to December, 1887. Times-Union, January, 1888, to January, 1892. Evening Telegram, February, 1892 to March, 1894. Evening Times-Union, March, 1894, to September, 1897. Evening Times-Union and Citizen, September, 1897, to January, 1898. Times-Union and Citizen, January, 1898, to January, 1903. Times-Union, January, 1903, to December, 1924. The dates in the following pages are those of occurrence, and not of the newspaper from which the account was taken; the published account will usually be found in the first issue afterward.
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:1. 156 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1876 February 4: Lloyd Brown (colored) was legally hanged for wife murder. He was captured at Baldwin after the murder and brought to Jacksonville. The day he was brought in the streets were lined with excited negroes, who united in shouting threats against the prisoner, and some went so far as to try to drag him from the hack that was taking him to the jail. It was an exciting demonstration and the officers had a difficult time in landing Brown safely behind the bars. February 22: First State fair ever held in Florida opened in Jacksonville. The fairgrounds were two miles northeast of the city. Ferry boats carried the crowds to and from the exhibition. It was a success from every standpoint and did much toward advertising Florida products. April 1: A negro barber by the name of DeLyon attempted to cut Officer Nolan with a razor, and the officer shot him in self-defense. The negroes about town became excited over the affair and began to congregate in large numbers on Bay Street near Ocean. Several serious rows occurred during the day, in one of which a white man was severely beaten. The police finally arrested about a dozen of the ringleaders, together with many others and both the city and the county jails were filled with prisoners. That night was one of much concern, as the negroes threatened to burn the town. Members of the fire companies and scores of determined citizens stationed themselves in different buildings prepared to meet an emergency, but the night passed Without serious consequences and no further demonstrations of a threatening character were made. April 4: John Dunn, a white boy 17 years old, was arrested as the firebug that had been active in the city for some time, setting fire to residences, outhouses, etc. He was tried, convicted, and sentenced to 12 years at hard labor in the State penitentiary. May 27: A plot to defraud the city by means of reissue of canceled coupon bonds was revealed. A Dr. Koch obtained q ; a
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 157 1876 access to a safe containing the coupons and secretly took $1;600 of the canceled paper. He erased the cancelation marks so completely that it was only by accident and through the aid of a magnifying glass that the fraud was detected. These coupons he sold to different parties in the city. When the plot was discovered Koch fled, but was afterward captured in Gainesville. July 4: With the firing of 37 cannon-rounds at sunrise, representing the number of States then in the Union, the city began a day of hilarity and patriotism characterized by street parades, patriotic speeches, and sports, followed at night by dancing, fantastic parades and general jubilees. Thus Jacksonville celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. Writing in 1876, the editor of the Jacksonville Tri-weekly Sun and Press published the following editorial in his paper: "The past three years have not been very prosperous to business men or the country at large. They have been distinguished by panics in the money market and depressions in all kinds of business; by failures, and by want of confidence in moneyed institutions. But this city shows a steady growth in spite of the hard times north. To supply the demand for additional accommodations on the river, two new steamboats were put on for the winter. The Pastime, a nice river steamer, came here from the North and ran regularly to Tocoi to connect with the St. Johns railway to St. Augustine. The David Clark was built two years ago and is now of Brock's line. The manufacture of lumber during the hard times has been less than formerly; besides one mill was burned last summer-that of Eppinger, Russell & Co. ' Still the local trade has been sufficient to keep most of the mills running during the dull sale of lumber north. Many places on Bay Street where unsightly old rattle-traps stood have yielded to the progress of events and brick buildings have been erected on the ground where they were so much of a nuisance." Yellow Fever Epidemic of 1877 Rumors of a suspicious fever in Fernandina reached Jacksonville in August, 1877, whereupon the authorities sent a representative there to ascertain the facts. He was told
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158 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA that no suspicious cases were under treatment, but the information he gained was sufficient to arouse his suspicion and upon his return to Jacksonville a quarantine was declared against Fernandina on August 31. Yellow fever was declared prevalent in Fernandina the first week of September. Some of the more timid people left Jacksonville at that time. The fever spread rapidly in Fernandina, thence along the coast of Georgia and South Carolina, and to Baldwin and other towns near Jacksonville. Armed guards were placed around Jacksonville on September 17, to prevent people coming in from the infected districts. The health authorities issued daily bulletins stating that no case of yellow fever existed in the city and the extreme nervous tension of the residents was relieved somewhat. Early in November Jared H. Keen died, when it was publicly charged that yellow fever existed in the city, and on the 15th the Board of Health issued this bulletin: Jacksonville, Fla., Nov. 15, 1877. Hon. W. Stokes Boyd, Mayor and Pres. Board of Health. Sir: Within the last two weeks a number of cases of fever have occurred in and around the city, principally in the western suburb south of the "Pond", and in the neighborhood of the Waverly House. Several of these have proved fatal. Drs. Mitchell, Sabal, Knight, Holt, Fernandez, and myself have had one or more cases. Our duty to the authorities, the community, and ourselves compels us to recognize the undoubted features of yellow fever in these cases. We have conscientiously withheld this fact from the public up to this time, earnestly hoping and trusting that the late period of fall would give us such a temperature ere this as would have stamped out all fevers, and feeling that a few additional days of exposure would by no means jeopardize the health of this community as much as would the probable panic and its consequences if our convictions had been made public. And now whilst we have no right longer to withhold the truth we still sanguinely hope that a few additional days of risk will carry us out of danger. . P. Daniel, Pres. Duval Co. Medical Society. This bulletin appeared in the local newspaper on the following day, and it caused a wild panic among the people. All who could, left the city. Intense excitement and confusion prevailed, and only the lateness of the season pre1 1 1 ~~~~~~ II :
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 159 vented a complete paralysis of business. Fortunately the demoralization did not last long as the temperature fell to freezing on November 30-in those days it was thought that freezing weather killed the yellow fever microbe. Then the people returned and resumed their usual occupations. The Board of Health recorded 22 deaths from yellow fever in this epidemic. 1877 December 10: Jacksonville Lodge No. 287, Order of Benai Bareth installed by Isaac Steuerman of Eufaula, Ala., with P. Walter, president; Jacob Huff, vice-president; H. Weiskopf, treasurer. December 30: Destructive fire at the corner of Union and Hogan Streets. Six dwellings were destroyed and for a time it was feared that all that portion of the town would burn. 1878 January 18: The first telephone in Jacksonville and probably in the State of Florida, was put in operation. It was a private line connecting the office of A. M. Beck at Bay and Pine (Main) Streets with the Inland Navigation Company at the foot of Laura Street. January-March: A band of swindlers and bunco men infested the city, fleecing strangers at every opportunity. They established headquarters in various buildings and the city authorities seemed unable to break them up. The newspapers warned the public and published columns concerning their operations. Owing to this publicity they finally left, but returned each winter for several years. March 11: Daring robbery at Carleton Hotel. Considerable money and a large amount of jewelry was stolen from guests' rooms. On the next night the St. James was robbed in a similar manner and on the night of the 22d Wm. Mack was caught trying to rob the Windsor. He was fined $50 and 29 days in jail. March 25: Captain James B. Eads entertained at a banquet at the Yacht Club. He was here to confer with the 94
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160 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1878 citizens in regard to the building of jetties at the mouth of the river. October 24: State Park Association incorporated with a capital of $100,000. Stock was subscribed by 41 prominent citizens. Articles of incorporation approved December 2, 1878. The purpose of the association was to promote the agricultural, horticultural and industrial interests of the State of Florida and to prepare and keep in order suitable buildings and grounds in the vicinity of Jacksonville for the permanent exhibit of the products of Florida. 1879-1881 This was an epochal period in the history of Jacksonville, for it was the beginning of the transportation development that made this city the gateway to Florida. Two main causes attracted this development, namely, the tourist travel and the orange industry of the St. Johns River section. The Tourist Travel The tourist travel to Florida had grown constantly during the decade 1870-1880, each winter season showing a large increase in visitors. The journey south was a tedious one and when the final change of cars was made at Live Oak and the last lap finished over the Florida Central into Jacksonville, the tired tourist breathed a sigh of great relief. The hotels were here to take care of him, but even in that day they were often filled to overflowing. Jacksonville was headquarters. The side trips were up the St. Johns and Ocklawaha Rivers, or to Tocoi, thence to St. Augustine. The circuit was a small one and he soon returned to Jacksonville for the winter. Jacksonville was a winter city four times its summer size; it was known in those days as "The Winter City in Summer Land". Its municipal attractions were few and the whole interest of the tourist seemed centered in the climate and the fact that he was in Florida. The hotels and the steamboats got a considerable portion of the tourists' spendings, but they did not get it all. The figures are not available, but large sums were spent here in what may be called the romance trade. On Bay Street were bazaars and stores filled
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 161 with souvenirs-ornaments and jewelry of alligator's teeth, coral and seabeans; sea-shells in their natural and polished state; palmetto products, wood carvings and canes, and every other thing of strange and grotesque fashion. It was the age of souvenirs and the tourists bought them freely. Florida even then was America's playground, for this was some time before California appeared as a competitor. The only drawback was getting here and H. B. Plant was the first to hear the cry. The Orange Industry Orange trees were planted by the early settlers of the lower St. Johns country years before the thought of putting the business on a commercial basis arose. Orange trees, grown from seed, were planted around the homes more especially for ornamentation and the fruit for home consumption. By 1835 a number of small groves had come into bearing when the severest freeze ever known in Florida (February, 1835) "destroyed the trees so completely that every one was disgusted". However, "in 1838-39-40, a widespread orange craze broke out along the lower St. Johns, but the fever was killed out by an insect". No further attempt at orange culture was made until after the War Between the States. Between 1868 and 1873, quite a number of wealthy Northern men came to Florida and developed estates on the St. Johns River as winter homes. Most of them planted orange trees and some set out extensive groves. Among these was Frederick DeBary, who afterward established the DeBary Line of river steamboats famous in its day. A succession of favorable winters enabled these trees to come into bearing without setback and in the period 1879-81 the orange industry along both sides of the St. Johns had grown to considerable proportions. The means of transportation of the fruit was out of Jacksonville by the line of railroad to Live Oak, thence in a roundabout way under conditions of great uncertainty and delay; or by small steamer to Savannah or Charleston. The first direct line of railroad from the North was the "Waycross Short Line", built in 1881 by H. B. Plant. At the riverfront terminus east of the present Broad Street viaduct a spur was run out on a wharf where fruit was loaded directly into the cars from the river boats; this was an advantage that
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162 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA was extensively advertised at the time. Likewise in 1881, the Jacksonville & Fernandina Railroad was built to connect Jacksonville with the deep-sea port of Fernandina as a bid for some of this river trade. The Mallory Steamship line had been operating a vessel to Jacksonville for two years; this service was discontinued with the opening of the Fernandina Railroad. This was the beginning of the competitive railroad construction that afterward made Jacksonville one of the most famous railroad terminals in the United States. Along with the coming of the railroads the preliminary work for deeper water was started at St. Johns bar when the jetty work began. Thus both rail and water transportation to Jacksonville grew side by side under the same impelling circumstances-trade and tourist travel. Mill Riot of 1880 On June 23, 1880, a labor disturbance broke out at Alsop & Clark's mill on East Bay Street near Hogans Creek, among the negro hands who demanded shorter hours of work. That night five extra policemen were sworn in and sent to the mill to protect the property from firebugs, and on the 25th two more were added. On the 26th Joe Nelson, a negro policeman, was killed by Ben Byrd, one of the negro strikers, and the situation assumed a serious aspect. Following the shooting of Nelson, W. C. Cooper, captain of the city police, and John Keefe, a patrolman, went on duty at the mill. They remained all night. Early the next morning a mob began to mass at the bridge farther up Bay Street. Keefe saw Captain Cooper advancing alone toward the mob and at once determined to share the danger with him. Upon the approach of the two officers the mob fell back from the bridge and took shelter in the weeds and behind slab piles. The moment the officers reached the bridge the negroes opened fire upon them with pistols, rifles and shotguns. One of the mob had a Spencer rifle, but the man had his sights too high and the bullets went over the officers' heads. Keefe saw a negro drop to one knee and let drive both barrels of a shotgun at him. Half a dozen buckshot struck his shirt aslant, made black dints in it and glanced off; however two buckshot penePi1, treated the flesh and came out two or three inches beyond. The charge of buckshot spun Keefe around and burnt him
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 163 like fire, but he charged on the man with the shotgun, knocked him down with his club and carried him to jail-the negro afterwards got five years. The negroes fled before the advancing officers. There was no more bloodshed, and quiet was restored and the negroes went back to work on June 30th. During this trouble the First Florida Light Artillery (Wilson's Battery), the only military organization in the town, was held in readiness at its armory; however the emergency passed without its services being needed. The reorganization of the Jacksonville Light Infantry in the following September was the outgrowth of this riot. Ben Byrd, who shot Officer Nelson, was hanged. In the period 1879-81, the first steps were taken in municipal improvements-waterworks and sewers. The foundations of some of Jacksonville's present important institutions were laid. Politically there was a recrudescence of local Republican rule when Peter Jones was elected mayor in 1879, though it was not as bitter as in the "carpet-bagger" days. 1882 The year 1882 afforded much in the way of political excitement. The existing Sunday closing law (referring to saloons) was the bone of contention in the municipal election, when, according to the editor of the Daily Times, "the Churches and temperance people of the town exerted their utmost strength to elect the present city government. After the election a repeal of the Sunday law was proposed in the council and the Churches united in a grand mass-meeting to denounce the attempt. The bill was defeated and the excitement abated", but was revived again in the fall. Trouble started when the Republicans attempted to secure the appointment of Lemuel W. Livingston (colored) as cadet to West Point from Florida. A wave of indignation swept over Jacksonville, and there were numerous rallies by the Democrats, the Republicans, and the negroes. The Democrats denounced the attempt in strong language and for a time the incident threatened serious consequences. Livingston failed in his preliminary examination, however, and his appointment was not confirmed. Yellow fever broke out in Galveston, Pensacola, New Orleans, Memphis and other places during the summer,
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164 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1882 necessitating the establishment by Jacksonville of a rigid quarantine. Quarantines in those days were serious handicaps to the business of a place, and its effect in Jacksonville in this case was especially felt in the delay of incoming shipments of building material for the construction work under way. The brick supply became exhausted and all work on brick buildings ceased for some time. Evidently the editor of the Daily Times was not satisfied with all of the conditions in Jacksonville, for he wrote in December: "Outside of our hotels there is nothing in Jacksonville exceedingly attractive. We have a barn of an opera house; our roads are not as good as they were ten years ago; we have a yacht club without yachts, the requisite of becoming a member of which is not to understand how to sail a yacht, but to know how to dance the latest dances. Bay Street is the same old mud hole in wet weather that it always was, and our sidewalks are still marvels of dangerous contrivance. If we are not sleeping, let us wake up and do something to retain for Jacksonville its popularity as a 'Winter City in Summer Land'." December 2: River steamboat Volusia destroyed at her dock at the foot of Newnan Street as a result of boiler explosion. The force of the explosion was so great that buildings in the business section rocked and hundreds of windows in the neighborhood were shattered. The disaster created intense excitement, Several persons were injured, but no one was killed. The Volusia was built in Jacksonville in 1872, at a cost of $11,000. She was owned and commanded by Captain T. W. Lund. 1883 February 12-17: Florida State Fair held at the fair grounds in Fairfield. February 17: Wrestling match between D. C. Ross and Thiefaud Bauer, for the Graeco-Roman championship of the world and for a medal offered by the Police Gazette. The decision was to be for the best two out of three. Ross was victorious in 45 minutes. The second bout took place on
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 165 the 21st. Ross was victorious in 29 minutes and was awarded the laurels. Smallpox Epidemic, 1883 March-June: About the middle of March, a negro sailor from New Orleans came ashore and stopped at a tenement house at Cedar and Forsyth Streets. He was sick at the time with smallpox, but before a diagnosis was made several colored people visited the place and contracted the disease. It spread and became a serious epidemic. The first bulletin of the Board of Health appeared in the newspapers of April 7th; it stated that smallpox existed in this city, and that up to that time there had been 25 cases, all among colored people. The disease continued to spread and the Board of Health ordered compulsory vaccination April 11th, when hundreds of people were vaccinated. Within a few weeks there had been 45 cases (only three of whom were white) and 24 deaths, which represented a mortality of 53 per cent. During the first few weeks the disease was confined almost entirely to the colored people, but then it got a foothold among the white people. Rumors, some true, some partly so, but the majority false, were circulated about the conditions existing in Jacksonville, alarming the surrounding towns to such an extent that they quarantined rigidly against this city. Criticisms of the methods of the Board of Health and suggestions on the part of laymen complicated the situation. The epidemic abated somewhat in the early part of May, but a cool spell about the 23d was followed by a fresh outbreak, and it was not until the first week in June that the epidemic was considered at an end. During the latter part of the epidemic the mortality was not as great as it was at first. In all, 180 cases were treated, with a mortality rate of over 30 per cent. 1883 July 19: At noon, the telegraph operators in this city walked out on strike. The entire force of six operators and one clerk went out, leaving only the manager. They were striking for more pay and shorter hours. It lasted several weeks and the operators derived but little benefit from it.
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166 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1883 The agitation concerning the Sunday closing law was brought over into 1883. In February, the editor of the Times-Union wrote: "For months the saloons in this city have been reaping their great Sunday harvests, open to the eyes of all the world. Within a few weeks gulled Church people who have vehemently denied the palpable fact have been led to make for themselves the discouraging discovery". The editor then goes on with a list of saloons found open and publicly doing business on the preceding Sunday, and concludes: "and the solemn chime of Sabbath bells mingles in unison with the gurgle of whiskey decanters and the chink of busy glasses; while the sun shines down upon worshippers thanking God that the Sunday law is obeyed, and-upon scenes of Sunday violation and debauchery. Happy liquor dealers! Happy city government! Happy people!" On October 21, 1883, there was a wholesale raid by the police on the violators of the Sunday law. Many arrests were made and the violators were brought before the mayor and fined, generally $10 each. The agitation of the Sunday closing law was extended to include the city's affairs in general. Criticism and comment on the part of citizens and newspapers were so persistent that an investigation was ordered by the council. The financial report of the investigating committee revealed facts as follows: DR. Sanitary Improvement Bonds (1878)...... . $230,000.00 Old Railroads (F. A. & G. C., 1857).......... 12,400.00 Old Warrant account ....................... 5,985.00 New Warrant account.................... 19,373.11 J. M. Schumacher judgment ............... 1,975.00-$269,733.11 CR. Cash on hand............... ............. $ 11,393.66 Taxes and other sources................... 90,868.21 City property ......................... 3,000.00-$105,261.86 Balance ..... . ............. .... ... ................... $164,471.25 A separate report was made for the waterworks: "Our unpaid bills on the 30th of June (1883), amounted to $1,511.46. They now (Nov. 15th) amount to $2,102.05. If
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 167 1883 the receipts and expenses are the same for the current year as last, the deficiency on the 1st of June, 1884, will be $4,146.31. There were, however, some extraordinary expenses incurred the past year which we hope to avoid the present year, and the receipts are steadily increasing, so that we may be able by close economy and an appropriation of $2,500 from the city, to operate to July 1, 1884." The result of all this agitation was to create a spirit of retrenchment in the city's finances, and the retrenchment began as usual by reducing the police force. Although the year was a most disturbing one for the politicians, private enterprises and business in general went right ahead. The movement of real estate was rather active. The Times-Union in November, published the following: "The number of buildings completed since June, or now in course of construction is 83; rooms added, 404; one paint shop; one blacksmith shop; one palmetto factory; one library; one school house, barns, stables, etc., in the construction of which $178,860 was expended. The statement includes all buildings within the territory bounded by Hogans Creek on the east and north, west by Clay Street, and south by the river. If the suburbs were added the list would be almost double. Yet with the increase, we have not enough accommodations even for our own people. Last winter saw people begging shelter at any price, and even now houses for rent or lease can scarcely be found." In October, the contract was awarded for building the Jacksonville and Atlantic Railway to the Beach, the prime movers in the enterprise being Jacksonville men. 1884 January 23: Opening reception of the Jacksonville Club, one of the principal social events of the year. The club was incorporated during the preceding summer and purchased the Christy property at the northwest corner of Laura and Adams Streets as a club house. The Jacksonville Club went out of existence in November, 1886. February 12: Opening of the 9th annual State Fair at the fairgrounds in Fairfield. The fair this year was not a financial success.
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168 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Park Opera House Prior to 1884, the theatricals that came to the city gavs their performances in different halls, principally in Metropolitan Hall on East Bay Street. The demand for a regular theatre had been growing for some time, when, in 1883, plans were made by local citizens for building one. The lot at the southeast corner of Laura and Duval Streets was procured by lease from William Astor, of New York, and the erection of the theatre was begun. It was a frame structure of heart pine. The seating capacity was 1,200. On February 22, 1884, Minnie Hauk and her company playing "Falsi;" dedicated the new theatre and an account of the opening was telegraphed to all parts of the Union. On May 14, 1887, at 1 a. m., the building was destroyed by fire, said to have been the work of an incendiary. Several nearby dwellings were also burned and for a time it was feared that the St. James Hotel and all that part of town would go. After considerable discussion the stockholders decided to rebuild and a new lease was made with Mr. Astor. Ground was broken the first week in July, 1887, and the opera house was completed and dedicated by home talent in a minstrel show, November 10, 1887. This was a modern brick building with large orchestra and a balcony all the way round to the stage; the seating capacity was 1,100. The Park opera house was destroyed in the fire of May 3, 1901, and was not rebuilt. The former was called the Park theatre and the latter the Park opera house. In both of them Jacksonville witnessed many nationally famous plays and players of the time, including a season of grand opera. 1884 March 24: Fire, starting at 3 a. m. destroyed the Holmes Building on the south side of Bay Street between Laura and Pine (Main). Thgse occupying the building were: V. Botto, liquors; E. Hopkins & Co., grocers; J. Slager, auctioneer; John Dzialynski, cigar manufacturer; Ashmead, Marshall & Dobbins, photographers; Ashmead Brothers, storehouse. Loss including the building, $45,000. May: "Rotten Row" was torn down to make way for other buildings. After the War Between the States, a row of low wooden buildings was built on the north side of Bay 03 C
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 169 1884 Street from Julia to Cedar. Occupied at first as stores and shops, which moved when better buildings were built, these shanties degenerated into dives of vice and crime that became a serious menace to the welfare of the community. June 30: Organization of the Jacksonville Driving Association with a capital of $50,000. W. T. Forbes, president; Dr. J. D. Fernandez, vice-president; J. P. Varnum, secretary; M. L. Hartridge, treasurer. October 18: New steam ferry boat Mechanic for service between Jacksonville and South Jacksonville, arrived amidst the tooting of many whistles. This boat was 140 feet long and 50 feet wide, having capacity for 1,800 passengers. The Armsmear, then in use as the ferry boat, could accommodate only 200. Popularly, these boats were called the Elephant and the Shoo-fly October 24: Hal B. Smith and Miss Alice George were drowned while sailing on the river near Panama. These were extremely popular young people of Jacksonville and the accident cast a gloom over the entire city. The obsequies were attended by a large concourse of residents and it is said that the floral contributions of respect were greatest in the history of the community. November 12: Pablo Beach opened up and lots put on the market. Quite a large number of people attended and the sale of lots was active. This was the first development of Pablo as a resort, and it was brought about by the expected early completion of the Jacksonville & Atlantic Railway. The enterprise was financed principally by the parties who were building the railroad. November 28: J. E. Hart's elevator and hominy and feed mills, on the river bank at the foot of Liberty Street, were destroyed by fire with a loss of $60,000. This was one of Jacksonville's largest manufactures. It was the most destructive fire since 1870, and a general conflagration was narrowly averted. The May panic in Wall Street caused considerable uneasiness here in financial circles and timid depositors made a run on the local banks, but confidence in these institutions was quickly restored. o
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170 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1884 Building operations continued to go forward. The five lumber mills kept working and their output for the year amounted to $500,000. Two brick yards produced $73,000; 14 cigar factories, $200,000; two wagon establishments, $40,000. Two new street carlines were contemplated. The J. T. & K. W. Ry. was completed to Palatka. A large increase in the wholesale trade was noted during the year. The turmoil about the Sunday closing law quieted somewhat as local politics drifted more especially toward the coming presidential and gubernatorial elections. When Cleveland was nominated for President a great Democratic mass-meeting was held at the Park theatre July 15, to support the nomination. According to the Times-Union it was the largest and most enthusiastic gathering of patriotic men and women ever held in this city and perhaps in the State of Florida. At 7 p. m. the booming of a cannon on Astor's wharf notified the citizens that all the preliminary arrangements for the great demonstration had been perfected. Bonfires were kindled in front of the theatre and the immense room was soon packed to overflowing, while hundreds congregated outside unable to gain entrance. The principal speakers were Governor Bloxham, Milton H. Mabry, Charles Dougherty, and John E. Hartridge. The Cleveland-Perry Democratic Club was organized and the political pot kept boiling, until on November 8 the club celebrated Cleveland's election as President and Perry's as Governor in a final grand jubilee the like of which Jacksonville had never seen before. The Republicans also held meetings during the summer, but their old-time enthusiasm seemed to have waned. The negro politicians held rallies, too; they were a farce and usually terminated in a free-for-all row. 1885 January 19-20, and February 24: Blind Tom, the celebrated negro pianist, performed to large audiences at Library Hall. Blind Tom had been here before, December 9 and 10, 1881, when he was heard by immense audiences in Metropolitan Hall.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 171 1885 February 3: Tenth Annual State Exposition opened at noon, under the joint auspices of the State Park Association and the Florida Fruit Growers' Association. The inaugural ceremonies were elaborate, with music by three bands. The display of Florida fruits was unusually large. The fair remained open until the 7th, and was the most successful undertaking of the kind in the history of Florida fairs. February 5: Meeting of Florida Fruit Growers' Association. A permanent organization was perfected March 11, 1885. February 15: Early morning fire, said to have been incendiary, destroyed the Percival three-story, five tenement house on Union Street between Hogan and Julia. The inmates barely escaped with their lives. The fire spread to a near-by cottage on the corner of Union and Hogan, thence to the stables and carriage house of W. D. Barnett and to the Barnett mansion; all were destroyed as was also a cottage occupied by T. T. Stockton. It was a $50,000 fire. March 17-20: Spring race meet of the State Park Association at the fair grounds in Fairfield, April 1-4: Southern Press Association convention. May 19: Cigar makers in El Modelo factory struck on account of a reduction in wages. Telephone Controversy, 1885 In May, 1885, the Southern Bell Tel. & Tel. Co. announced that it would increase the rate for phones from $51 to $60 a year. The announcement brought forth a storm of protest. The Board of Trade called a special meeting and addressed a note to the telephone company protesting against the increase in rate. The local manager of the company replied to this note in a stern, and, as considered by the Board of Trade, insulting manner. Indignation meetings at the Board of Trade followed. Steps were taken to invite a competitive company to come to Jacksonville and inaugurate a new system. A boycott of the telephone company was then put into effect. Business men took the matter up, working in harmony with the Board of Trade. The telephone company stood
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172 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA firm and as the leases expired took the telephones out. The superintendent of the company arrived about this time and a compromise was effected pending an investigation. The investigating committee of the Board of Trade reported: That the Board and business community have been contemptnously treated by a scornful small agent of an autocratic monopoly is an unpleasant fact. That we are being discriminated against and heaped with more than our share of a much resented burden seems plain. Such redress as lies within our power, however, should not be neglected. If we cannot save a part of the new extortion to our private pockets, we may nevertheless direct it from the coffers of a foreign corporation to the pressing needs of our city treasury. A copy of this report was sent to the city council, with a recommendation of imposing a license tax of $500 on the telephone company. The council took the matter up and finally an ordinance was passed imposing a tax of $300 a year on the company. There were 170 telephones in operation in Jacksonville at this time. The Southern Bell Telephone Company entered Jacksonville in 1880. 1885 June 3: Florida Camp No. 1, Confederate Veterans, organized. June 10, the by-laws were accepted. June 20, first officers elected: Wm. Baya, commander; John Dodds, first lieut.; A. E. McClure, second lieut. Name of the camp changed to R. E. Lee Camp June 11, 1889. July 15: Ponce de Leon Council, American Legion of Honor, instituted at Masonic hall by Dr. A. B. Harrison, deputy supreme commander of Monticello, with 52 charter members. J. Huff, commander; George E. Wilson, vicecommander. August 8: The booming of "Betsy", a gun of Wilson's Battery, coming at regular intervals, announced to every one the funeral of General U. S. Grant. General Grant's death and funeral were generally observed in this city; mourning draperies were displayed, and solemn and impressive ceremonies were held in the Park theatre at the hour of the funeral. These ceremonies were attended by the local camp of Confederate Veterans.
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JACKSONVILLE IN 1886 M My .. -__^"^ -... -e _... When Jacksonville was the "Mecca" for the tourists in Florida; and the St. Johns River teemed with craft of all kinds, crowded with passengers or loaded to the gunwales with freight.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 173 .September 10: Jacksonville Gun Club organized. T. H. Livingston, president; John E. Hartridge and John L. Marvin, vice-presidents; W. L. Gibson, secretary; Bion Barnett, treasurer. December 27: Steamer "City of Nassau" bound for Florida reported off Delaware Breakwater; she was never heard of again. A number of people were aboard bound for Jacksonville. Fire of December 16, 1885 A $200,000 fire occurred on the south side of Bay Street between Laura and Pine (Main). The fire started in the four-story warehouse back of S. B. Hubbard's hardware store and destroyed that structure, together with the threestory warehouse back of the McConihe building. The flames spread to the stores on the south side of Bay Street and destroyed the Hubbard hardware store, the McConihe building, the Abell block, brick warehouse of C. B. Benedict, and the freight wharf and warehouse of the DeBary-Baya steamboat line. One or two other buildings were badly damaged. A colored fireman was killed by a falling wall. This fire showed plainly the necessity of a regularly organized paid fire department and it was authorized by the city council several months afterward. Jacksonville Crowded with Tourists The arrivals at the principal hotels and large boarding houses, during the season of 1884-85, numbered 60,000. It was with the greatest difficulty that the tourist trade could be accommodated and many were actually forced to go to other towns on that account. At the close of the season work was started on additions to a number of hotels and boarding houses. The Everett spent $100,000 in an addition, now the Aragon; the Windsor, $75,000; and the Duval, $25,000. Other hotels and boarding houses spent considerable money in enlargements and improvements, so that the winter season of 1885-86 found Jacksonville well prepared to accommodate all those who wished to come. That winter was the banner one. The St. Johns now was teeming with steamboats of every description from the small, odd-looking craft running to the
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174 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA places far up the river to the fastest and most modern passenger boats to be found anywhere. Most of them were sidewheelers. Above Orange Park on both sides of the river were regular landings every few miles for the freight boats bringing oranges from the different groves. A novelty in the fleet was a floating packing house that stopped at the different landings and packed the oranges on board. The part these river boats played in the development of Jacksonville entitles them to a place in the history of this city. 1886 January 11-12: Severe freeze. The temperature on the 11th fell to 19 and on the 12th to 15 degrees. There was a general destruction of growing crops and young orange trees, while the old trees set out after the war were killed to the ground. Much damage was done to the water system as a result of broken pipes. January 27-30: Emma Abbott, English Opera Company in grand opera, at the Park theatre, playing "La Traviata", the "Mikado", "Mignon", "I1 Trovatore". The Company played to packed houses. During this winter a number of players of world-wide fame gave performances here and were greeted with capacity houses. February 16-20: State Fair and State Park associations gave joint exhibitions. Some of the best known horses in the country were sent here from the North. March 20-21: Moody and Sankey, the noted evangelists, preached to immense congregations. April 6: Printers in the newspaper offices in Jacksonville walked out on strike for higher wages. Outside printers were brought in and the papers were published without much inconvenience. The strike lasted two months, but there was no violence. The striking printers made an unsuccessful effort to institute a boycott of the newspapers by the merchants. May 13: Organization of the first regular baseball club in Jacksonville, with A. W. Barrs, President; Lawrence Haynes,
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 175 1886 Secretary-Treasurer, and M. Jacoby, Manager. Games were played here and elsewhere during the summer. July 5-10: Encampment of State troops at Pablo. Earthquake August 31, 1886: It is safe to say that Jacksonville never before turned its people into the streets so quickly as it did at 8:52 p.m., when buildings rocked and doors and windows rattled by earthquake. Intense excitement prevailed and the streets were filled with frightened people. No material property damage was done in this city, further than the cracking of wall plaster and in a few instances the settling of buildings. The vibrations were from east to west and had the effect of the swaying of a train on a straight track with several sudden jerks as rounding a curve. The first vibrations were slight for about a minute, followed by three or four heavy shocks in quick succession. The disturbance lasted 11 minutes, the last tremor being felt at 9:03 p.m. The main destruction in Charleston occurred within these limits of time, when several hundred buildings were destroyed in that city; scores of people killed, and a property damage estimated at $8,000,000 done. It was the heaviest earthquake ever recorded in the United States up to that time. Jacksonville raised by popular subscription $3400 for relief work in Charleston. Distinct earth tremors were felt in Jacksonville on September 1, at 3:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.; 3d, 10;03 p.m.; 5th, 10:15 a.m. and 10:18 p.m.; 8th, 12:35 p.m.; 9th, 12:47 p.m.; and on October 22, there was a shock at 4:25 a.m. of sufficient energy to rattle dishes, windows, etc. With a continuous record since 1829 to draw from, there have been but two other instances when earth tremors have been felt in Jacksonville: January 12, 1879, at 11:40 p.m. a slight tremor was felt; and on June 20, 1893, at 10:07 p.m. there was a slight shock lasting ten seconds. 1887 The year 1887 was one of public agitation and considerable excitement. In the early part of the year the propa-
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176 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1887 ganda of California to divert the tourist trade from Florida, and the question between the lawyers and the business men of Jacksonville as to the location of the proposed government building, brought the citizens together in a number of massmeetings. The new charter of May 31, so drafted as to strike out from the charter the provision for registering voters and holding the first election, resulted in political turmoil that lasted exactly two years, with a lull during the yellow fever epidemic of 1888. It finally ended by taking the elective franchise away from the people. There appears to have been an unusual wave of crime in the city and county in this year, judging from the number of hold-ups and shooting scrapes mentioned in the newspapers, coupled with frequent robberies and a large number of incendiary small fires. This crime wave seems traceable to no specific cause, although whiskey figured heavily in it and was the direct cause of the killing of two citizens on the streets of Jacksonville. June 24: At 11 p.m. fire broke out in the three-story brick block at the corner of Bay and Clay Streets, owned by Geo. R. Foster, and occupied principally by Clark & Loftus as a furniture store and warehouse. The building and most of the contents were destroyed; loss $30,000. October 7: Jacksonville quarantined against Tampa owing to yellow fever at that place. It was a modified quarantine, but lasted several weeks. November 6: Probably the first prohibition meeting ever held in the State was held here for the purpose of organizing for a campaign against liquor. W. B. Owen presided. 1888 The Sub-Tropical Exposition During the winter 1886-7, California appeared as a competitor of Florida for the tourist business. Attractive rates to the West were secured from the railroads and organizations of that State sent representatives here, opened tourist bureaus, and flooded the country with California literature. In many ways they sought to divert the tourist travel from
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 177 1888 Florida, and the success of their intensive campaign was evinced by a perceptible decrease in the tourist travel to Florida in that winter. The citizens of Jacksonville became aroused over the seriousness of this movement and in the Spring of 1887, met in mass-meeting to devise means to combat it. Here began the rivalry between the two States that exists today. It was decided to establish at Jacksonville, for the interest and instruction of tourists, a great exposition, to be held annually during the winter months, of sub-tropical and tropical products and resources, embracing in its scope the entire State of Florida, the Bahamas, and the West Indies, and if possible, Mexico and Central America. An association was formed and capitalized at $100,000. That part of Waterworks Park at the corner of Pine (Main) and First Streets was leased from the city, for $1.00 annual rental, as a site for the exposition buildings. Their erection began in the fall of 1887. The main building was 825x152 feet over all, including transepts. It was sheathed and lathed, then stuccoed, which gave it the appearance of stone construction. A smaller rustic building was erected near it, also for exposition purposes. The opening of the exposition on January 12, 1888, was auspicious, and great crowds visited it although all of the exhibits were not in place. It was generally pronounced a most creditable display of Florida's resources, and by far the most pretentious undertaking of the kind ever attempted in the State. It had been advertised daily for eight months and numbers of people came from distant States to see it. President Cleveland Visits Sub-Tropical President Grover Cleveland accepted an invitation to visit the Sub-Tropical, and his arrival on February 22, 1888 (Washington's Birthday), was marked by the most brilliant pageant and parade ever staged here. The presidential train arrived amidst the roar of Wilson's Battery and the party was greeted at the station by cheering thousands, playing bands, and boom of cannon. With the President came Mrs. Cleveland, Secretary Whitney and wife, and a party of Congressmen. The President's coach was specially made for *4
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178 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA this occasion, an exact counterpart of the one used by him in Washington, made by the same manufacturers, and was drawn by six magnificent black horses. In the parade from the depot to the St. James Hotel were military, city and civil organizations of every character. The cheering en route was deafening at times. At 3:30 that afternoon, the parade was resumed from the St. James to the exposition grounds, and was a repetition of that from the depot. The address of welcome in the SubTropical building was made by Col. J. J. Daniel, to which the President replied in a pleasing and happy strain amidst tumultuous applause. At night there was a grand reception in the parlors of the St. James Hotel. The crowds were so great that the streets were blocked with a mass of people. Mrs. Cleveland's grace and beauty were remarked upon by everyone, and the spontaneous enthusiasm was for her almost as much as for the President himself. The presidential party again visited the exposition on the following morning, then crossed the river to take the train for St. Augustine to become the guest of the Ponce de Leon. Every important county of the State had an exhibit at the Sub-Tropical exposition. The County Commissioners of Duval County at first refused to make an appropriation for an exhibit by Duval County; but a mass-meeting of indignant citizens caused them to change their views, and the necessary appropriation was immediately forthcoming. Besides the county exhibits there was a creditable art showing and numbers of individual exhibits and attractions. The grounds were beautifully laid out with trees and shrubs, among which the most admired was a blooming century plant. The principal public events during the exposition were: President Cleveland's visit, February 22-23; the Levy concerts, March 3-5; Gilmore's Band concerts, April 16-17. The Sub-Tropical officially closed for the season April 20, but it was visited by a great number of people for several months afterward. The financial report of the Association for the first season was; Total receipts, January 12 to April 20, $21,013; total operating expenses, $12,134. Total assets, including buildings and grounds, $50,581; liabilities, $15,325.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 179 1888 March 18: Fire broke out at 8 p.m. in the paint and oil storage warehouse of Geo. L. Drew & Co., at the foot of Laura Street, east side. It spread to the warehouse of Geo. E. Wilson, in which was stored $40,000 worth of fertilizer materials; thence to the new Hazeltine building, all of which were destroyed. This fire was between the alley back of the present West building and the river and did not reach Bay Street. It was a $100,000 fire. March 21: First game of professional baseball here. Washington vs. New York. Score: Washington, 6; New York, 5. April: Rumors of a suspicious fever at Plant City and other South Florida places. June-July: Continued rumors of suspicious fever in South Florida localities. The local Board of Health preparing sanitary measures, but no quarantine declared.
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180 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA YELLOW FEVER EPIDEMIC, 1888t In the early spring of 1888, a peculiar fever, the nature of which baffled the physicians somewhat, was prevalent in Jacksonville and several persons died of it. Early in the summer some of the cases had well pronounced symptoms,tt but it was not officially proclaimed yellow fever until some time later. The case that brought out the announcement was that of a man named McCormick, who had come here only a few days before from Tampa, and who was first reported sick on July 28. On August 8, the populace was thrown into frantic excitement by the announcement that four new cases had been found, and two days later the Board of Health issued a proclamation that the yellow fever was tending to assume an epidemic form. Many persons had already left the city, and this proclamation intensified the alarm to such an extent that all outgoing trains and boats were crowded to their full capacity, while the public roads were congested with terrified people, fleeing in every conceivable conveyance and on foot, scores of them having no destination in particular and uncertain as to where they were going. Many of those who were unable to pay for transportation to the few places which generously opened their gates to them, suffered great hardships, as a rigid quarantine was immediately declared against Jacksonville by nearly every community south of the Mason and Dixon line, and these unfortunate people were driven from town to town in their search for shelter. The intense excitement that prevailed throughout the surrounding country is indicated by the act of the citizens of Waycross, Ga., in threatening to tear up the railroad tracks if refugees were permitted to pass out of Jacksonville by way of Waycross, even in locked cars and passing that town at a high rate of speed. As a protective measure, the authorities at St. Augustine turned back all mail matter from Jacksonville, although it had undergone thorough fumigation; and other places in the State refused to allow merchandise of any description to come into their respective communities from the infected district, while some local Boards of Health went so far as to exclude such things as machinery, wagon wheels, railroad iron, ice, and even silver dollars. To enforce these regulations armed guards surrounded nearly every hamlet tFrom the reports of the Jacksonville Auxiliary Sanitary Association, 1889. ttSo stated by many residents.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 181 in Florida and southern Georgia. The natural result of this "shot gun" quarantine, as it came to be known, was that business in Jacksonville was completely paralyzed, in fact practically ceased. The Clyde Steamship Line discontinued its service, and then soon followed the discontinuance of all up-river boats. The States north and west brought such pressure to bear upon the U. S. Marine Hospital Service, that the Surgeon General ordered a camp of detention near Boulogne, on the St. Marys River, afterward called Camp Perry, where all refugees bound north or west by rail must remain ten days before proceeding. Thus every avenue of escape was closed to the remaining residents of the city, except through a detention camp where accommodations were exceedingly meagre, consisting of well-worn tents that were of little or no protection against rain; coarse food; insufficient bedding; no hospital accommodations; and where, at first, ladies and children had to eat at the same table with negroes. Such was Camp Perry during the early stages of the epidemic, and numbers of our people preferred to remain in Jacksonville amid all the horrors of the yellow fever rather than subject themselves and their families to these vicissitudes. The conditions at Camp Perry were later greatly improved. Towns and cities all over the country, though fanatical in their efforts to prevent the arrival of refugees, yet generously offered money and supplies to the unfortunate community; but it was decided that, for the time-being at least, Jacksonville could care for herself out of the donations of her own citizens, therefore these offers of outside assistance were at first politely though firmly declined. The first donations were $100 by the State Bank of Florida, and 1000 pounds of beef by Adams and Smith. It was not until the 22d of August that a formal request was made for assistance, and it was addressed only to the citizens of Jacksonville, those here and away. The constantly increasing need, however, made a general appeal necessary, and on the 5th of September notice was sent out that money and supplies would be received from the country at large. Contributions immediately began pouring in from corporations, benevolent societies, mayors of cities, boards of trade, chambers of commerce, banks, and individuals all over the United States. The great American nation responded to the appeal with the utmost sympathy and generosity, and when the final ac-
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182 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA counting was made there had been received in cash donations $331,972, and supplies, the estimated value of which was $13,467. These figures do not include the amount received indirectly from the United States government through reimbursements, amounting to about $175,000. New York City alone sent $108,199; next came Philadelphia, with $18,085; Boston, $13,876; Chicago, $13,436; Brooklyn, $10,836; St. Louis, $6,959; Savannah, $6,455; Charleston, $5,928; New Orleans, $5,903; Memphis, $5,247; Kansas City, $5,134; and hundreds of cities and towns with contributions less than $5,000. Individual contributions ranged all the way from $12,000, given anonymously by a resident of New York City,t to 2 cents, a widow's mite. Jacksonville during the progress of the epidemic was a place of utter despair. Hundreds of men were at work cleaning up the city and suburbs, burning trash, and disinfecting; every able-bodied man who applied for work was given something to do, at a nominal salary, the authorities believing that this was the best method to handle the situation as to idleness, and at the same time bring the sanitary conditions to the greatest perfection. But with all this activity, the deserted stores and residences and the serious countenances of the citizens, told plainly the story of the calamity; and at night there settled over the city an uncanny stillness, broken only by the occasional rattle of the death carts or the muffled noises of those whose duty called them out after dark. The odors arising from the free use of disinfectants surcharged the atmosphere, and furnished the basis for the statements of the negroes that they could "smell the yellow fever in the air". It was a situation well calculated to crush the stoutest heart. At that time people thought the best way to escape the yellow fever was to remain indoors from sundown to sunrise; but they were utterly in the dark as to how to combat the disease, as is evinced by the experiments conducted for that purpose. One of the first was the concussion experiment, the theory being that the concussion caused by the firing of heavy cannon charges would kill the yellow fever microbes. The only result attained, however, was the breakage of windows in several churches and numerous other buildings. tThis gentleman later became the benefactor of Daniel Memorial Orpbanage. Ikf. wise anonymoLuly.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 183 'The concussion theory was first advanced in the fall of 1877, by Mrs. H. K. Ingram, of Edgefield, Tenn., in the publication of a paper entitled "Atmospheric Concussion as a Means of Disinfection". She claimed that the explosion of gunpowder in a room would kill mosquitoes and other insects by concussion and that the same principles were applicable to the destruction of microbes in the air. (Published in Jacksonville Sun and Press, Sept. 13, 1877). At one of these experiments, a negro walking down the street failed to notice the cannon until it was fired within fifty feet of him, when he was heard to exclaim, "Good Lawd, how thick dey falls", thinking the grains of dust thrown in his face were yellow fever microbes falling out of the air. Huge fires of pine and tar were kindled at night in different sections, to purify the air and prevent the spread of the infection; tar was supposed to possess great virtue in this respect. Depopulation was finally decided upon as a means of bringing the epidemic to an end, and for this purpose the people were requested to go to the camps provided for them. Camp Mitchell, named for Dr. Neal Mitchell, was established about seven miles west of the city. Camp Howard, another refugee camp, was located in North Jacksonville, about two miles from the city limits and just beyond was the Sand Hills Hospital. Several hundred people went to these camps. In the meantime two or three special refugee trains were run out of Jacksonville. One of these trains, bound for Hendersonville, N. C., by reason of unavoidable delays, was two days in reaching destination and five cases of yellow fever developed en route. A panic ensued among the passengers, while a rigid quarantine was maintained against the infected cars by the other cars of the train. Upon their arrival in Hendersonville, the patients were taken to the hospital, where every attention was accorded them. Hendersonville threw wide her doors to the people of stricken Jacksonville from the very first, and kept them open until the last. A strict requirement was that all mail matter should be thoroughly fumigated. Two fumigating stations were maintained, one at LaVilla Junction, near town, and the other near Waycross, Ga. The Waycross fumigating car, from August 1 to December 1, handled 2,536,845 pieces of mail matter, and each piece had to be handled four times in the process of fumigation.
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184 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Those who applied for work to the relief association represented only a small percentage of the idle who would not or could not leave the city. When it became known that an appropriation of $200,000 had been made by Congress, a rumor spread among the negroes that this money was intended for their benefit. The prospect of being fed without having work to do lured many to the infected district, and the checking of this inflowing tide necessitated the placing of a cordon of armed guards around Jacksonville and the suburbs, including South Jacksonville. In the early part of September a house to house canvass was made, which census showed 3,945 white and 9,812 colored then in the city. The stupendous undertaking of providing for the needy and worthy poor devolved upon the relief association formed early in the epidemic. After investigation rations were issued to those in actual need of them, a ration for an adult for one week being: 2 pounds of bacon, 3 pounds of meal or 2 pounds of flour, 3 pounds of grits or two pounds of flour, 1 pint of molasses, 1/2 pint of salt, 1/ pound of coffee, 1/2 pound of sugar, and 1 bar of soap. The total number of rations issued in this way during the epidemic was 196,538. In special cases certain delicacies were issued to the sick on the order of a physician. A physician had written an order, but inadvertently left a space above his signature. In this space a thirsty patient inserted the words "one case Mumm's quarts; 6 bottles claret". Another patient, by adding the figure 2, raised his order for 1 chicken to 12 chickens. The system was changed. One sad case will illustrate the distress prevalent before systematic relief measures were adopted. A gentleman walking down the street met a boy crying bitterly. The little fellow said he was hungry; that his mama was lying in the house there dead, and that his sister and himself had had nothing to eat for over a day. Investigation revealed the mother lying in the room where she had died 24 hours previously and the father just breathing his last when relief arrived. On N Jvember 26, when the temperature fell to freezing, the epidemic was generally considered at an end, although occasional cases continued to be reported from the suburbs until December 6. The last death from yellow fever occurred December 5. The Board of Health issued a proclamation that December 15 should be the day when refugees might be
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 185 allowed to return to Jacksonville; but those who would not remain at night might come in on December 10, the penalty for disobedience of these laws being $500 fine or 30 days imprisonment. On December 15 hundreds of citizens arrived by trains and boats, many reaching the city late the previous night by conveyance or on foot. Extra trains were run on all the roads and they came into Jacksonville filled to capacity. With 4704 cases and 427 deaths (324 white and 103 colored) charged to its account, the great epidemic became a matter of history. The Jacksonville Auxiliary Sanitary Association, an organization of citizens, was the medium through which contributions were received and disbursed; it had full control of relief measures; supervised the sanitation of the city; and through its Relief Committee was associated with every detail bearing upon the epidemic. Day after day these men met for the purpose of handling the daily developing stages of the crisis. There were 282 of them, who, with death staring them in the face and without the promise of reward, did all that they could for the stricken city and sister communities. Sixty-seven of them had the fever, and the supreme sacrifice fell to those in the following list: W. N. Baker, Ezra Gray, Frank Marvin, Wm. L. Baldwin, Charles Hinkley, R. Mulroy, J. J. Daniel, H. A. L'Engle, C. Peters, C. G. Elliott, J. H. McGinnis, Theo. M. Smith, J. M. Fairlie, Edwin Martin, A. 0. Whitner. L. I. Fleming, In a business way Jacksonville recovered quickly from the epidemic. By the first of the year scores of residences and stores had been opened and trade resumed. But the characteristic greeting "Good-morning, John", or "Goodmorning, Jim", was heard no more from many of the old familiar figures upon the streets. *Forever this shall be recorded as the last yellow fever epidemic in Jacksonville's history. This terrible distress might have been saved had the medical world considered seriously the mosquito theory of the Cuban physician, Dr. Carlos Finlay, advanced in 1881 and ignored until 1900, when the Reed commission at Havana demonstrated without a doubt that the mosquito was the carrier of the yellow fever germ.
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186 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA At the close of the yellow fever epidemic the supplies on hand were distributed among the local charitable institutions. Funds amounting to $24,750 remained on hand and were deposited in the banks at interest. These funds were eventually distributed as follows: June, 1889, $2000 to Johnstown flood sufferers; February, 1892, $2500 to famine-stricken Russians; August, 1893, $1800 to Brunswick yellow fever sufferers; October, 1896, $5000 to storm sufferers in the State. In the meantime it was decided by the Association to thereafter distribute the interest on the fund to the local charitable institutions, which was regularly done. At the time of the Jacksonville fire in May, 1901, the fund amounted to $19,880. The old Relief Association, desiring to turn this fund over to the Fire Relief Association, petitioned Judge Call for authority to do so; the authority was granted, the fund was transferred, and the affairs of the yellow fever Relief Association finally closed under court authority, May 21, 1901.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 187 1889 Second Sub-Tropical Exposition Soon after the close of the yellow fever epidemic the directors of the Sub-Tropical Association held a meeting, at which it was decided to again open the exposition that winter. It was a magnificent example of pluck and hope for the future. True to schedule, the second Sub-Tropical Exposition opened February 20, 1889. The exhibits, though not as elaborate as before, were yet most creditable, considering the circumstances resulting from the demoralization caused by the yellow fever epidemic. With a year's growth, the grounds had become a garden of much beauty. Grover Cleveland again visited the exposition, April 4. as the guest of a party of Plant System Railroad officials. Fred Douglass was here at the same time as the guest of the colored branch of the Association, but it is not shown that the two met. Interstate Drill April 10-12, 1889 The closing attractions at the Sub-Tropical were the maneuvers and competitive drills staged by military companies from Florida and nearby States. Taking part in these maneuvers were: Carolina Rifles, Charleston, Capt. K. S. Tupper. German Fusileers, Charleston, Capt. Henry Schachte. Montgomery Guards, Charleston, Capt. F. J. Dcvercux. Southern Cadets, Macon, Capt. Roff Simms. Gate City Guards, Atlanta, Capt. Lyman Hall. Oglethorpe Light Infantry, Augusta, Capt. E. C. Coffin. Clark Light Infantry, Augusta, Capt. H. K. Lowry. Clinch Rifles, Augusta, Capt. J. C. Levy. Sumter Light Infantry, Sumter, S. C., Capt. R. A. Brand. Gatling Gun Company, Charleston, Capt. F. P. Winthrop. Metropolitan Light Infantry, Jacksonville, Capt. J. E. McGinnis. Jacksonville Light Infantry, Jacksonville, Capt. C. W. Stansell. Bartow Rifles, Bartow, Capt. J. E. Dickens. Cadet Company E, E. F. S., Gainesville, Capt. E. F. Burrows. Orlando Guards, Orlando, Capt. R. S. Allen. Cadet Company, F. A. C., Lake City, Capt. R. H. Oleman. Island City Guards, Key West, Capt. F. C. Brosier. Halifax Rifles, Daytona, Capt. J. W. Douglass. St. Augustine Guards, St. Augustine, Capt. Wm. Moody.
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188 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1889 Most of these troops arrived on the 10th. April 11. The State competitive drill was held on the special drill ground that had been prepared near the SubTropical. This contest was open to all Florida companies, the two Jacksonville companies and the Orlando company entering it. The judges' award in percentage was: M. L. I., 86.2; Orlando Guards, 83.5 ;Jacksonville Light Infantry, 79.1. Following this drill was an individual contest for the best drilled soldier open to all; it was won by Private H. H. White of the Carolina Rifles. April 12. The crowning event was the interstate drill of this date for a first prize of $1,000 and a second prize of $500, open to all companies. The Southern Cadets won first prize and the German Fusileers the second. The companies entering this contest and the final award of the judges were as follows: Southern Cadets, 79.1; German Fusileers, 78.9; Gate City Guards. 76.8; Carolina Rifles, 74.2; Orlando Guards, 72.1; Metropolitan Light Infantry, 54.5; Jacksonville Light Infantry, 49.7. The drill was witnessed by 3,000 people and the companies as they came upon the field were greeted with tremendous enthusiasm, especially the M. L. I. in its strik|46 ~ingly unusual uniform of bottle-green coats, white pants, and hats with long white flowing plumes for the officers and green plumes for the men. There were many incidents connected with the interstate drill that were the subject of discussion among military men for a long time afterward. April 6: Answering a call for help from Savannah, where a great conflagration was in progress, the old Mechanics Volunteer Fire Company boarded a special train and was carried there at the rate of 65 miles an hour. June 5: Large fire at the foot of Bridge (Broad) street; 65 buildings burned and an area of 5 city blocks swept clean; loss about $135,000. The fire started at 1 a.m. at the foot of Bridge Street near the railroad tracks. It swept north along Bridge Street to Adams Street, and burned all buildings except two on Adams Street, in the area bounded by Bridge, Adams, Hawk (Jefferson), and McCoys Creek. South of Bay the fire crossed Bridge Street and burned most of that block. The buildings were principally frame.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 189 1889 July 5: City Board of Health created by ordinance of City Council; approved July 13th. Dr. C. J. Burroughs was the first city health officer. November 28: Pavilion and two hotels at Burnside Beach destroyed by fire. The Palmetto was a new four-story hotel; the Burnside House was an old building built before the War Between the States. House Bill No. 4 There were two main features of the legislation passed in May, 1889, known as House Bill No. 4: One providing for the appointment of officers to constitute the city government of Jacksonville (see page 300); and the other authorizing the city to issue bonds to the extent of $750,000. The purpose of the bond issue was for municipal improvements and the redemption of $210,000 outstanding bonds (Sanitary Improvement Bonds of 1878). At the election held December 10, 1889, for the purpose of taking the sense of the voters upon the bond issue, the result was: For Bonds, 653; Against Bonds, 1091. The defeat of the bond issue was attributed to the newly acquired suburbs, where property owners claimed there would be an increase in taxes without any benefit from the issue; and also to the vote of the nonproperty owning class. It was pointed out that practically all of the large property owners were in favor of bonds. 1890 The Sub-Tropical Exposition opened January 9, 1890, with a two-day celebration and carnival. The first day was given over largely to parades, in which floats of local business concerns appeared as a marked feature. On the 10th there was an elaborate display of fireworks at night, followed by a grand masked ball. The exposition was on the order of previous displays though not so elaborate; but it continued to attract the attention of tourists. It closed April 12 after a week of military festivity and another interstate competitive drill that became famous in local military history.
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190 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The Interstate Drill, April 10-12, 1890 Four companies entered the contest: Southern Cadets of Macon, Captain R. Simms; Gate City Guards of Atlanta, Captain A. C. Sneed; Atlanta Rifles, Captain M. B. Spencer; a composite local company entering as the Metropolitan Light Infantry, commanded by J. L. Doggett. The companies appeared in the competitive maneuvers separately and were so judged, the Atlanta Rifles appearing first and the Metropolitan Light Infantry last on the field. The enthusiasm was intense; and when the M. L. I. appeared, their plumes waving in a heavy wind, there was an ovation. *Profiting by the experience of the year before the M. L. I. discarded white pants as a part of its uniform and at this drill appeared in dark blue pants, black coats with braid facings, and black caps with white flowing plumes. The grand prize of $2000 was awarded to the Southern Cadets, on a technicality, much to the surprise of military men, for it was the consensus of opinion that the Atlanta Rifles was the best drilled company of them all and was entitled to the first place. The award of the judges was: Southern Cadets, 95; Atlanta Rifles, 94; Gate City Guards, 91; Metropolitan Light Infantry, 83. The Edgefield Rifles of Edgefield, S. C., was here, but did not enter the contest. Only two companies entered the State competitive drillthe M. L. I. and the Gainesville Guards. The award in this drill was: M. L. I., 80; Gainesville Guards, 75. A prize of $100 was offered for the best drilled individual; Cadet Arthur W. Pye, of the East Florida Seminary Cadets, won it. 1890 March 20: Fire started at 2 a.m. in Lilienthal's dry goods store on the north side of Adams Street, between Clay and Bridge (Broad). It spread rapidly east and west and destroyed all the buildings in the block bounded by Adams. Clay, Monroe, and Bridge, except a small house or two on the south side of Monroe Street. It crossed Bridge Street and burned a store on the corner. The heaviest losers were Henry Lilienthal, who owned the entire row on the north side of Adams Street between Clay and Bridge; J. E. T. Bowden, new brick colosseum and swimming pool, together with
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 191 1890 other houses; Porcher L'Engle. Total loss, including stocks, $75,000. July 4: Largest crowd in history of Pablo Beach, estimated at 1500, assembled to witness the first exhibition of professional bicycle racing in this section. August 7: Jacksonville Driving Park Association organized for the purpose of promoting amateur horse-racing. P. McQuaid, President; J. R. Tysen, Vice-President; J. F. Nichols, Secretary; H. T. Baya, Treasurer. October 26: Two warehouses belonging to Dr. W. M. Bostwick, on the river front at foot of Pine (Main) Street, were destroyed by fire. 1891 January 15: Sub-Tropical opened its 4th annual exhibition. There were no elaborate opening exercises. That night a display of fireworks was given, followed by a ball in the fair building. With each year's added growth of shrubbery the grounds had become more attractive, and the setting for the exposition was most pleasing; but it was soon evident that interest in the fair was waning. It closed on February 14. The outstanding special features for the month were the Kirmess folk dances, staged by local talent, and the 5-day revival of Sam Jones, the evangelist. The Sub-Tropical was not opened again as a State fair. The lease and buildings were sold to a private company of local citizens, when an attempt was made the following year to open it as a County fair. Afterward the buildings became useful as a place for holding conventions and local celebrations of all kinds, until 1897, when they were torn down to make way for the waterworks reservoir on the site. Of the numbers of fairs and exhibitions held in Jacksonville, the citizens that remembered it always emphasized with pride and pleasant recollection the Sub-Tropical, its attractive surroundings and pleasurable incidents. March 27: Grand Union Hotel at the northwest corner of Forsyth and Cedar Streets destroyed by fire at 9 a.m. This was a three-story brick and frame building, 75x125 feet in dimension.
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192 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1891 March 29-April 5: Sam Jones, the evangelist, again held a revival in Jacksonville. He preached a sermon to the colored people entitled, "Quit Your Meanness". February 26: Heavy gale did considerable damage in the city. The western end of the Sub-Tropical building was blown in. Mohawk Block Burns May 18, 1891. At 11:30 p.m., fire was discovered in the brick, stone and iron building at the southwest corner of Market and Bay Streets, known as the Mohawk Block, considered Jacksonville's finest business building, owned by the Schumacher estate and valued at $100,000. Occupying the ground floor were the U. S. Post Office; James Douglass, books and stationery; Church Anderson & Co., wholesale commission merchants; George F. Drew Hardware Company. Above were the U. S. Court rooms, and U. S. Marshal's offices; Railway Mail service; and a number of lawyers' offices. The Mohawk building was destroyed, as were the adjoining Santo building (small), and a building occupied by John Clark, Son & Co., valued at $35,000 and in which were stored 250 bales of high-grade tobacco. In the rear an "L" occupied also by the Drew Hardware Company, was destroyed; here occurred a moderate explosion of dynamite followed by the popping of small ammunition. Glass on the Bay Street side of the Carleton Hotel across the street was cracked and ruined by the heat. The total loss was in the neighborhood of $400,000, with insurance of $230,000. July 5: A large livery stable and 9 houses were destroyed in a fire on the east half of the block bounded by Ashley, Church, Laura and Hogan Streets. The houses were mostly small dwelling houses. The St. James hotel caught, but the fire was immediately put out. Pine (Main) Street Conflagration (August 18, 1891) At 5 minutes before midnight on August 17, fire was discovered in the Bay Street store of R. D. Knight & Co.'s crockery store. The flames spread from the Bay Street store to the Knight annex in the rear, extending to Forsyth Street,
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PINE (MAIN) STREET CONFLAGRATION August 18, 1891. CHU/RCH STREE£ ::'.":: it 1/IA S7 T' EET Al'ea burned oveo shown by shading.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 193 both buildings being gutted. Thence it spread to the adjoining Hubbard block on the west, extending to Pine Street. The Hubbard building was a new 4-story brick building, occupied by the S. B. Hubbard Hardware Company, Western Union Telegraph Company, Southern Bell Telephone Company, Southern Savings & Trust Bank, with offices, and the Jacksonville Light Infantry armory above. While this building was burning, the DaCosta Printing office, adjoining on Pine Street, was burned. The L'Engle building at the northeast corner of Pine and Bay Streets miraculously escaped destruction. From this corner (southeast corner of Pine and Forsyth Streets) the fire crossed Pine Street to the 4-story brick Freedmen's Bank building on the southwest corner of Pine and Forsyth, which was soon ablaze. Adjoining on Pine Street were a billiard saloon and the shoe store of Simmons & Scott; these also burned. While the Freedmen's bank building was burning the Burbridge building at the northeast corner of Pine and Forsyth Street, occupied by the Seminole Club, caught and burned. This was a 3-story brick building, and just east of it was a brick-veneer building owned by C. B. Smith (where the Windle Hotel is now). Both were destroyed. The large 3-story brick and frame Tremont Hotel on the northwest corner of Pine and Forsyth Streets became involved in the meantime, so that now all four corners at Pine and Forsyth Streets were on fire and burning fiercely. When the fire reached the Smith building at 1:45 a.m. (18th), there was a terrific explosion of dynamite stored there, that rocked every building in Jacksonville, and caused a wholesale destruction of plate glass show windows and panes of glass for blocks around. At least a dozen people were injured by flying glass and scores of persons were knocked to the ground by the force of the explosion. No one was seriously hurt, however. The 5-story brick Placide Hotel stood on Pine Street just back of the Tremont; the explosion had broken every pane of glass in it and it soon became a roaring shaft. The adjoining building on the southwest corner of Adams and Pine (where Kxess' store is nowV cauIght fom the Placide and was quickly destroyed, as were two small dwellings immediately west of it.
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194 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA The wind, shifting between southwest and southeast, carried the flames up Pine Street. On the east side, the fire swept from the Seminole Club building to the Bogue residence on the southeast corner of Adams, thence east on south side of Adams Street to a two-story brick dwelling and a onestory brick-veneer dwelling near Ocean Street. The Mattair house, next to the Smith building, was also destroyed in this block. Two small frame buildings at the northwest corner of Forsyth and Ocean Streets escaped destruction. On the north side of Adams Street, in the opposite block, several houses caught, but the flames were put out; they burned later, as did every house in this block. West of Pine, on the north side of Adams Street, the L'Engle building on the corner, and the Dey building adjoining, caught from the Placide; then the Mechanics fire hall and D. U. Fletcher's residence. All of them burned to the ground. In this block on Pine Street, Julius Slager's dwelling burned, as did the 3-story frame boarding house called the Chelsea, at the southwest corner of Pine and Monroe. On the south side of Monroe, west of the Chelsea, the two Emery tenement houses, Ritzewoller's dwelling, and a tenement near the southeast corner of Laura and Monroe, in turn were destroyed. This last was the nearest point that the fire approached Laura Street. In the opposite block, east side of Pine Street, between Adams and Monroe, W. M. Ledwith's dwelling was the first to burn; this was near the northwest corner of Ocean and Adams Streets. Two houses owned by Jacob Huff, on Pine Street, after repeatedly catching, were finally destroyed, as was the residence of George S. Wilson facing Adams Street. At the northeast corner of Pine and Adams was the Wilson orange grove; it was greatly damaged by the heat. On Ocean Street, a dwelling occupied by Perry Holland, and one by Dr. A. J. Wakefield burned, which, with the destruction of two other dwellings in this block, swept it clean. A perfect sea of flame arched Monroe Street from the Chelsea and the dwellings on the south side of the street, igniting the dwelling of J. D. Bucky on the north side. This burned and the flames spread to a dwelling at the northwest corner of Pine and Monroe used by the convent, thence to the large frame building of the convent itself, at the southwest corner of Pine and Duval, both of which were destroyed, as
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 195 was the dwelling of Judge W. B. Young, and another dwelling west of the convent on the south side of Monroe Street. In the opposite block, at the northeast corner of Pine and Monroe, a building was burned. At the southeast corner of Pine and Duval was Dr. R. P. Daniel's residence; this dwelling escaped and was the only building that was not burned on Pine Street between Forsyth and Church Streets. Crossing Duval Street, the fire swept practically all of the east half of the block on the west side of Pine Street to Church Street, including the Smith boarding house and McMurray & Baker's carriage factory. In the opposite block two houses and two stables were burned. The flames crossed Church Street at the northwest corner of Pine Street and burned a building; it was checked here, just before it reached Avery's livery stable. The property loss was not less than $750,000. The fire originated in the center of the business district, sweeping the area shown in the accompanying chart. As it progressed up Pine Street, residents moved their personal effects into the street in advance of the flames, until the streets were littered with furniture. The water pressure was low and it was soon seen that a conflagration could not be averted. The newspapers of the following day asked the people to be brave, forecasting that a new and greater Jacksonville would arise from the ashes, that where dwelling houses were before, business houses would now be built. 1891 November 17: Excitement in Criminal Court during the trial of Andrew Lightbody, when Louisa C. Stevens whipped out a derringer and attempted to shoot Lightbody. A bystander struck her hand up and the ball was deflected. Officers of the court, lawyers, witnesses, and spectators made a wild break for the door and it was some time before quiet was restored. 1892 January 16: Steamer John G. Christopher was greeted with an enthusiastic celebration on her maiden arrival inaugurating a new steamer service to New York. January 20: Cornerstone of the new Masonic Temple at
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196 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE. FLORIDA 1892 the northeast corner of Forsyth and Bridge (Broad) Streets laid with elaborate Masonic ceremonies. May 11: Camp of Sons of Confederate Veterans organized with 25 members. Officers elected: Captain, D. U. Fletcher; first lieutenant, S. C. Boyleston; second lieutenant, J. E. T. Bowden; secretary, F. B. Matthews; treasurer, C. N. Welshans. May 15: Fire originating in a house on the south side of Adams Street between Second (Davis) and Third (Lee) Streets, LaVilla, destroyed eight dwellings and two stores in that block. Riot of 1892 July 4: During a controversy over a trivial matter a fight ensued between Frank Burrows, a young white man, and a giant negro named Ben Reed. Reed struck Burrows on the head with an oak standard, crushing his skull. Reed was soon captured and taken to the city jail at the foot of Liberty Street. When the news spread that Burrows had been killed feeling ran high and there was talk by indiscreet persons of lynching. Early that night negroes began to congregate around the county jail at the other end of Liberty Street, to which Reed had been removed, and by 10 p. m. a mob of 500 or more had gathered to protect the prisoner. They placed sentinels at every corner in the vicinity and armed negroes patrolled the streets leading to the jail. That part of the city was entirely in their control. When a white man appeared, they surrounded and questioned him. A whistle signal was then given to the next corner and the pedestrian would be followed; if he went in the direction of the jail, he was surrounded and covered with cocked pistols and Winchester rifles and turned back. A number of prominent white citizens fell into this situation during the night. There was no hostile demonstration, however, when 20 policemen came up and went into the jail. Just before midnight a dispatch was received from the Governor ordering the three local military companies (Jacksonville Light Infantry, Metropolitan Light Infantry, and Wilson's Battery) to mobilize at their armories and hold themselves ready to resist any attack on the jail. In an hour they were under arms. The night passed without bloodshed, but was one of the utmost tension.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 197 All during the day of the 5th, there was a feeling of unrest throughout the city as to the eventualities of the coming night. The military remained under orders, and during the day a meeting was arranged with several leading negroes for a consultation at 8 p. m., when it was explained that the military was ordered out to protect the prisoner Reed and to repress mob violence. In the meantime a great mob of negroes had collected around the jail and were armed to the teeth. After the meeting at 8 o'clock, the mob was addressed by both white and colored speakers and the situation as to the purpose of the military explained to it. The military now moved in and took full charge of the squares around the jail. The mob broke up somewhat in front of the troops and shifted in its relation to the business end of the Gatlin gun of Wilson's Battery, but it did not entirely disperse and at midnight the marshes, shanties, yards, and trees within three blocks of the jail were full of armed negroes apparently waiting for a war to begin. The strain of the second night was no less than the first, but it passed without serious consequences and at sunrise the mob had about disappeared. On the 6th, a large number of men from surrounding towns and from southern Georgia came in and offered their services to the sheriff and the military. At 6 p. m. the St. Augustine Rifles and the St. Augustine Guards arrived and immediately marched to the jail and assumed duty. Considerable desultory firing by individuals during the night kept the excitement at the highest pitch. Policeman Jones was fired on at Beaver and Newnan Streets by a negro, and the officer shot him in the legs with a double-barrelled shotgun: this was the first incident of the kind up to this time. The Gainesville Guards, Gem City Guards of Palatka, and Bradford County Guards of Starke, were in the city on the 7th. At 4:30 p. m., the eight military companies now in the city had a battalion drill in the vicinity of Market and Bay Streets, staged for the purpose.of effect on the negroes. The Gainesville, Palatka, and Starke companies and Wilson's Battery went on duty at the jailsoon after dark. There was no outbreak during the night and on the 8th quiet had been restored and the visiting companies departed, having rendered Jacksonville a valuable service. This was a dangerous demonstration. The incendiary talk by crowds of negro women was one of the most disturb-
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198 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA ing elements throughout the trouble and gave rise to the rumors that an attempt would be made to burn the city. For three days and nights the tension was so great that the slightest untoward incident would have started a terrible catastrophe. That it was avoided was due to the good judgment of the military and civil officers and a few leading negroes. Ben Reed was tried for murder December 2d, but the jury failed to agree; he was afterward tried, convicted, and sentenced to four years' imprisonment. 1892 September: Work on a wagon road to Pablo Beach was begun, with convict labor. The editor of the Jacksonville Evening Telegram published that it was hoped the county commissioners would improve the road and not leave it merely as an opening cut through the woods. November: New public school building in Riverside was completed and occupied. This was a frame school house. 1893 January 18: New Masonic temple at Bridge (Broad) and Forsyth Streets was dedicated. January 24: Answering a call from St. Augustine for help on the Casino fire, apparatus was put on a special train that made the run to St. Augustine in 35 minutes. April 6: Confederate Home for Aged Soldiers and Sailors of the Confederacy was dedicated at noon. Col. James Armstrong of Charleston delivered the oration. (The association was organized in August, 1888.) April 11: Corner-stone of Good Shepherd Episcopal church in Riverside was laid. July 4: "Villa Maynard", a bicycle racing park, was opened; there were 2,000 spectators. August: The Sub-Tropical changed hands again and was renamed the Florida Zoological Gardens and Exposition. A severe epidemic of yellow fever raged at Brunswick, Jesup and other southeast Georgia towns in the late summer and fall. Jacksonville instituted a rigid quarantine. November 15: The pier at Pablo Beach was burned.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 199 Corbett-Mitchell Prize Fight (January 25, 1894) When it was published that an effort was being made to arrange a prize fight between J. J. Corbett, of the United States, and Charles Mitchell, of England, for the championship of the world, a club was organized here in October, 1893, known as the Duval Athletic Club, composed of local people, for the purpose of securing the fight for Jacksonville. Immediately arose the question of the legality of such an exhibition under the State laws, while considerable public opposition was voiced with respect to having it here. An offer was made by the club acceptable to the principals and the preliminary arrangements were being made, when the governor issued notice that force would be used, if necessary, to prevent the fight. The purse offered was $20,000, the winner to receive all. When it became known generally that the authorities were planning to stop the fight, other places over the country sought to obtain it, among them Cripple Creek, a mining town in Colorado, which offered $40,000 for it. Corbett arrived in Jacksonville about the middle of December and went into training at Mayport. Mitchell came two weeks later and was arrested upon arrival, to test the law; he gave bond for $1,500 and established training quarters at St. Augustine. The governor ordered Sheriff Broward of Duval County to use force to prevent the fight, and finally ordered the second batallion of State troops to Jacksonville to assist him. The Duval Athletic Club played its trump card the day before the fight, when it secured an injunction against interference by the authorities. The fight occurred on the afternoon of January 25, 1894, at the old fairgrounds in Fairfield. The betting at the ringside was 100 to 40 in favor of Corbett. The gong sounded at 2:30 p. m. Referee: Kelly. ROUND ONE Corbett led off with a left to Mitchell's chin. They clinched. Exchange of body blows. Corbett reached Mitchell's eye heavily. Mitchell reached Corbett's ribs. Another exchange of body blows and Mitchell clinched. Mitchell got one to Corbett's neck and Corbett landed a right. Just before time was called Mitchell landed a heavy body blow. Honors about even.
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200 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA ROUND TWO Opened with wild exchange and clinch; Corbett upper-cut Mitchell as they came together. Mitchell landed hard on Corbett's ribs, and as Mitchell came in Corbett caught him on the head, staggering him. Corbett upper-cut Mitchell again and landed a right on Mitchell's chin. Mitchell reached Corbett's chin. A sharp rally with Corbett having the advantage. Mitchell got in twice on Corbett's neck. Corbett floored Mitchell cleanly and knocked him down again as he essayed to rise Gong. ROUND THREE Mitchell rather groggy. Corbett rushed at him swinging right and left to the neck. Mitchell went down. Mitchell took full time to rise. Corbett rushed at him like a tiger. Mitchell clinched. Corbett threw him off and floored him with a stiff facer. Again Mitchell took full time to rise and when he advanced toward Corbett, the latter swung his right with deadly effect to Mitchell's nose. Mitchell reeled and fell on his face, helpless-knocked out. Such was the newspaper report of the fight. It was witnessed by 1800 people, including the sporting element of the country, who paid $31,000 to see it. No attempt was made to stop the fight during its progress, but both Corbett and Mitchell were arrested immediately afterward. Each was released on $5,000 bond. Both departed the next day for the North and both returned to Jacksonville the last of February for trial. Corbett was acquitted of the charge of assault and battery. Judge Christie, when asked if he was going to proceed against Mitchell, remarked that if Corbett could not be convicted of assault and battery he hardly thought that Mitchell could, and nol pressed his case. 1894 Crime Wave In the last week of January a crime wave broke out in Jacksonville. Burglaries, robberies and hold-ups, evidently by professionals, were of frequent occurrence. Some of these criminals were captured, but most of them were too shrewd for the local police and "got by" with their jobs. This seemed to be an inducement for the criminally inclined to become active. That year was the worst crime year that Jacksonville had ever known up to that time. There was a shake-up in the police department and a change of chiefs, but with little
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 201 effect; murder after murder occurred, among them Mrs. Grace Hayes and her mother, Mrs. Nason, on September 4. Three white suicides; the accidental drowning of a young man and young woman while rowing off the foot of Laura Street; a number of spectacular knock-down, drag-out fights on Bay Street were incidents of that memorable year. Along with the police shake-up came a revival of war on open saloons on Sunday. It waxed warm for awhile. The municipal judge was asked to resign, but he informed his accusers that he knew as much about how to run a court as they did, and continued to function. The legislative election in the fall was full of promise for some more excitement. A species of propaganda was started against the railroads, charging them with an attempt to control the election by use of money. The feeling was worked up to fever heat. On the day of the election the local military companies were held under orders to suppress any disturbance. When the voters went to the polls that morning they found them closed. However, later in the day the polls were opened and the election was held without serious disorder. There was another side to Jacksonville's history in 1894. The program of improvement under a $1,000,000 bond issue was begun. Bay Street was paved with brick from Bridge (Broad) to Market-the finest street in Florida at that time. Main Street was paved to Hogans Creek. Just as Main Street was finished a circus parade passed over it and the heavy wagons did serious damage to the thoroughfare. Other streets followed in turn. Riverside Avenue was provided for from McCoys Creek to Rossell Street. Ground was broken for the City Hall and Market. An electric light plant was authorized. Here trouble began with private lighting interests, who filed an injunction against the city, seeking to prevent the establishment of a municipal light plant. The city won the suit that followed. Added to these improvements $1,000,000 was spent in privately owned buildings. Jacksonville now advanced from the large town to the city class. 1895 January 13: Ferryboat "Ravenswood" destroyed by fire at her slip in South Jacksonville. February 18: Ferryboat "Idaho" purchased in the North
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202 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1895 to take the place of the "Ravenswood" was lost off Hatteras on her way here. February-March: New York "Giants" trained at Jacksonville. April 27: Greeted by a royal welcome from river craft the Commodore Barney arrived from New York to become the ferryboat between Jacksonville and South Jacksonville. She was originally built in 1858 as a government boat named Ethan Allen; but before coming to Jacksonville had been running as a ferryboat at New York. May 20: In the bicycle races held at Charlotte, Geo. N. Adams of Jacksonville won the championship of the South, riding a Steams one mile in 2:37. September 10: News Item: Three weeks ago there was not a bloomer in the city; now there are five that are known of and perhaps more that have not come to light. The owners of the five bloomers have not yet ventured to ride (their bicycles) in open daylight, but usually wait until after 9 p. m., when there are few people on the streets. 1896 March 6: New York Giants (baseball club) arrived for spring training. July 17: George N. Adams established a world's record for 3 to 10 miles bicycle racing at Panama Park. September 11: Club house and quarters at Panama Park burned. September 23: Clyde steamer Frederick DeBary wrecked at Kitty Hawk, N. C. Was later floated, repaired and put into service. 1897 February 12: Jacksonville Bar Association organized at a meeting of lawyers in the court house: D. U. Fletcher, president; C. D. Rinehart, vice-president; E. J. L'Engle, secretary; T. M. Day, Jr., treasurer. The Association held its first banquet at the Windsor Hotel February 26, 1897.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 203 1897 *The foregoing was a reorganization of the old Jacksonville Bar Association, which was originally organized May 6, 1887. March 2: Jacksonville City Council passed resolutions condemning Spain for the cruelties in Cuba. This was said to be the first official action of the character in the United States. Gato Murder Miss Louise Gato, a beautiful young woman, was shot as she was entering the gate of her father's home in North Springfield (Laura and Eleventh Streets) about dusk April 20, 1897. She died within 24 hours and in her dying statement accused a friend, Edward Pitzer, of doing the shooting. Pitzer was arrested and his trial was one of the most sensational in Jacksonville's history. It lasted nearly two weeks amidst many spectacular incidents and court excitements. Morning, noon, and night the court-room was crowded with interested spectators and general interest prevailed throughout the city. The lawyers in the case were, prosecuting, State's Attorney A. G. Hartridge assisted by D. U. Fletcher and A. W. Cockrell; defense, Alexander St. Clair Abrams with D. C. Campbell and F. W. Pope as associates. Judge R. M. Call was the trial judge and D. Plummer foreman of the jury. In his concluding argument for the defense Mr. Abrams made a heart-appealing speech which ended dramatically as he fainted and fell into the arms of a deputy sheriff. The defense was based on an alibi. The jury was out 22 hours and returned a verdict of acquittal. Pitzer left Jacksonville soon afterward to make his home in the North. An outstanding feature of this case was the interest taken in the prisoner while in jail, mostly by women, who loaded his cell with flowers and kept him supplied with every delicacy. Another feature was the prompt trial of the case, May 26 to June 5, 1897. June: Gardner building, Jacksonville's first sky-scraper of six stories, was completed. (This building was on the north side of Bay Street between Main and Laura. It was destroyed in the fire of May 3, 1901.) July 2: First moving picture shown in Jacksonville, called then an Edison Projectoscope. The picture was shown
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204 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1897 at the Park Opera House and was claimed to be a moving picture of the Corbett-Fitzsimmons prize fight. The reel broke in half soon after the picture started and the subject proved to be a fake, nevertheless it was the forerunner of motion pictures in Jacksonville. July 26: Long distance telephone service with Savannah inaugurated; day rate, 85 cents for three minutes; night rate, 45 cents. September: Jacksonville quarantined against New Orleans and other yellow fever infested places in the lower Mississippi Valley. Quarantine in force until November. November 9-12: Inaugauration of a festival of fun called Gala Week, during which Jacksonville was given over to whole-hearted recreation and play. The city was crowded with visitors from all over the State. Fire companies from other places were here in competitive drills; there were semiprofessional bicycle races, military maneuvers, fantastic parades, trades display embracing 170 floats, and numerous other attractions of all kinds. At night the carnival spirit was uncurbed; there were fireworks and confetti throwing and a good, wholesome time for everybody and Jacksonville turned out en masse. It was as an old negro said: While watching a passing parade a visitor set down a jug, which promptly foamed over and left a little pool of Florida syrup where it stood. Soon a foot was in it, followed by the testy inquiry, "What is that stuff? The old darkey replied, "Boss, dis town is so full of fun dat it biles out abovee de sidewalk". *Gala Week proved to be such a success that an association was formed to perpetuate it by making it an annual affair. It was held yearly until 1904, increasing in magnitude until it became a State affair which was widely advertised. The carnival of 1903 was the most elaborate ever held in Florida. Gala Week as a distinct celebration ceased with the Trades Carnival of 1904. Even now one sometimes hears the remark, "Have you seen George? You'd better hurry, hurry, hurry", all of which carries the memory back to old Gala Week in the days before the fire.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 205 SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR *The U. S. battleship "Maine" was destroyed in Havana harbor February 15, 1898. War was declared against Spain April 25, 1898. Treaty of peace at Paris December 10, 189. In 1896, when the Cuban revolution was at the height of its military success the romantic and hazardous business of filibustering men and arms from the Florida coast to Cuba reached considerable proportions. There were several local boats engaged in this occupation; their names were often in the press dispatches of the time and were familiar to the American public. There was one the fame of which extended throughout the civilized world, the St. Johns River tugboat "Three Friends". Filibustering On the dark, raw night of March 11, 1896, the Three Friends made her first get-away as a filibuster. Loaded with arms and ammunition for the Cuban insurgents she drove rapidly down the river toward the bar, with such speed that the small fishing craft along the river were thrown up on the banks by the swell she made. The revenue cutter Boutwell was lying off Jacksonville at the time and immediately started in pursuit of the Three Friends. A fisherman at New Berlin trying to launch his boat from the platform where it had been thrown, was asked if he had seen a boat pass that way; his reply was, "Some dboat passed here throwing my boat up on the platform, and if she kept on at the same rate of speed she will by now have reached a place too hot for you to catch her in". At the mouth of the river the commander of the Boutwell enquired of the pilot if the Three Friends had passed during the night. The reply was, "God knows what passed here; something the color of blue dawn, with her forward deck piled high with boats and her after deck filled with boxes. The swell she made in passing washed our decks and floated our boats". The Boutwell then returned to Jacksonville. Out at sea the Three Friends turned toward the south and at dawn was far down the coast driving full speed toward the Florida Keys. Her coat of white had been changed to gray and in great white letters she bore the name
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206 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA "The Ox". The day passed without incident and nightcame on. While off Canaveral at 9 p. m. the lights of three vessels were seen ahead; it proved to be a tug boat with a tow, but it was sufficient to cause a scare. Onward the Three Friends sped; the night passed and the greater portion of the following day. That afternoon she anchored behind one of the Florida keys, near the Stephen R. Mallory, a filibuster from Cedar Keys, likewise loaded with arms and patriots for the Cubans. At daylight the Three Friends started south for safer anchorage among the keys. Near Turtle Harbor a strange steamer put out to sea fleeing like a startled bird. It was the famous filibuster Commodore, which, mistaking the Three Friends for a revenue cutter, headed for the Bahama Banks. The crew of the Three Friends was likewise frightened at the strange event and believed for a time that it was a Spanish gunboat bent on capture. Near Indian Key the schooner Ardnell transferred her Cuban patriots to the Three Friends and the latter headed for the open sea, passing out over Alligator Reef just as the sun was rising. At 9 o'clock that night the light at Cardenas was sighted. It soon clouded up, became very dark and began to rain. The Cuban pilot, who had now taken charge, missed the place previously agreed upon as a landing place by two miles and before anyone was aware of it the Three Friends was among the breakers. With great difficulty the filibuster backed into deeper water, threw out her cable and began landing her cargo of Cubans and munitions of war, unaware that she was off a Spanish town and not more than a few hundred yards from a Spanish fort. The last boatload of Cubans had scarcely been launched when the searchlight of a small Spanish gunboat was thrown on the beach, revealing the presence of those on shore engaged in burying their arms and ammunition. The Spaniards opened fire on the Cubans on the beach and they in turn fired at the searchlight on the gunboat and the light went out. All of this was exceedingly interesting to the crew of the Three Friends lying close by awaiting the return of the last boat from shore. The crew had their guns ready to repel boarders from the gunboat, when by the aid of a spy-glass a large Spanish warship was detected less than a mile away. The captain of the Three Friends gave the order, "Do not use your guns as it will attract the attention of the large gunboat on our port side. Get your axes and lie under the
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 207 bulwarks and if the small gunboat tries to board us, use them". Just then the boats returned from the shore, the men pulling with all their might. The boats were made fast instantly, the anchor cable cut, and the Three Friends started ahead full speed on her race for life. The first streak of light was visible along the eastern horizon, but overhead hung dark clouds from which a light mist was falling. The tug was running parallel to the line of the coast while the gunboat was headed across her bowthe Three Friends had been discovered. Nearer and nearer the two steamers approached each other, but the Spaniard having the shorter course to run held his smaller opponent an easy prey. Then came the order, "Line all the men up on the port side and have them ready to get into the boats. We shall run into the Spaniard as we head and both may be sunk, but we will have the advantage of having our boats overboard and our men ready; he will have to lower his and we can get the start and beat them back to the Cubans we have just landed". On getting nearer the Spanish cruiser the wheel of the Three Friends was put hard a-starboard and she turned at right angle and headed west. The wind blew her smoke back upon her track and the Spaniard, thinking she had doubled, turned his bow toward the rear. In another moment they were lost to each other in the darkness and rain. The Three Friends made straight for Key West where she arrived at noon. Here ended her first trip as a filibuster. Seven more she made, everyone as hazardous and exciting as the first, but the Three Friends was marked with a lucky star and passed through them all unscathed. Among the other boats well known in these waters that became famous for their filibuster expeditions to Cuba were the Dauntless, the Commodore and the Bermuda; these with the Three Friends were known as the "Cuban fleet". The Bermuda made a number of trips to Cuba, but was finally detained at Jamaica by the British authorities. The Commodore foundered under suspicious circumstances off the Florida east coast January 2, 1897; her cargo of arms and several of the Cuban patriots aboard were lost. The fame of the little Dauntless was almost as great as that of the Three Friends; she was once captured by the U. S. S. Marblehead, but later got out of the scrape and though under constant
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208 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA surveillance continued to make an occasional get-away for Cuba. *The Three Friends and the Dauntless were fast boats for their day. Soon after war was declared the Three Friends was chartered by the New York World and used as a dispatch boat between the war zone and Key West. The Dauntless was the dispatch boat of the Associated Press in Southern waters during the war. The Bermuda sank in Delaware River in 1900. The Dauntless is now in service running on Chesapeake Bay, and the Three Friends still plies the waters of her home, the St. Johns River. By the summer of 1897 the Cuban revolution had reached a low ebb as a result of the inhuman policy of the Spanish Governor Weyler. Day after day for months the American people had read about the horrible conditions in Cuba and public sentiment had reached a state that the United States was about ready to intervene when the announcement came in January, 1898, that Weyler had been recalled and a new form of limited self-government promised the Cubans. The Cubans rejected it and the fire of revolution broke out afresh. Gen. Fitzhugh Lee, U. S. Consul-General at Havana, asked that an American warship be sent to Havana to protect American interests if necessary. The battleship Maine was sent and while anchored in Havana harbor was destroyed by an explosion at 10 p.m. February 15, 1898, resulting in the death of 2 officers and 264 men. The finding of the board of investigation that the explosion originated on the outside of the ship made war with Spain unavoidable, and on April 25, 1898, President McKinley issued a proclamation that war with Spain existed. In less than a week after the Maine was sunk, and two months before war was declared, Florida began her preparations for war. On February 20, 1898, among the first, if not the first order of a military nature, bearing on the impending crisis, was issued from Tallahassee to the Jacksonville Naval Militia in part as follows: Lt. A. R. Merrill, Lt. J. H. Bland, Ensigns Miller and Gibbons, with such petty officers and signalmen from the Third Division of Florida Naval Militia, Jacksonville, as may be necessary, are detailed to make a reconnaissance of the Atlantic coast as far as practicable with a view to locating proper sites for signal stations and to secure such other data as may be obtained and be of value from a military standpoint.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 209 Immediately upon receipt of these orders the survey began at the mouth of the St. Johns and it was the first in this part of Florida in relation to the Spanish-American war. War Chronology 1898 March 6: Gen. J. M. Wilson, Chief of U. S. Engineers, made a military inspection at the mouth of the St. Johns. April 4-10: Local military companies recruiting to war strength. April 15: Two companies of negro troops under white officers passed through en route to Key West; first troop movement through Jacksonville. April 18: Jacksonville Naval Militia offered its services to the Government; services accepted and unit ordered to recruit to war strength. Officers: A. R. Merrill, lieutenant commander; J. H. Bland, lieutenant; Cromwell Gibbons and F. D. Miller, ensigns. April 23: Jacksonville Naval Militia called to the colors; ordered to establish signal stations at the mouth of the St. Johns River. May 3: Jacksonville Light Infantry and Jacksonville Rifles, having volunteered, were called to the colors; ordered to hold themselves in readiness. May 12: Practically the entire white population of the city turned out to wish Godspeed to Jacksonville Light Infantry and Jacksonville Rifles, entraining for Tampa. The roster of the Rifles at this time was 106 officers and men, and that of the Jacksonville Light Infantry 91. May 26: Wilson's Battery volunteered for service. June 1: Censorship of troop movements inaugurated. June 12: Full roster of each company of the First Florida Regiment appeared in the Times-Union and Citizen of this date. June 13: Jacksonville designated as the commissary depot for the Seventh Army Corps.
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210 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1898 August 2: Convalescent hospital was opened at Pablo Beach. October 15: Company E (Jacksonville Light Infantry) 1st Florida, arrived from Tallahassee. An immense assemblage was at the depot to greet the company and included the 4th Illinois regiment of Camp Cuba Libre and the band of the 161st Indiana. When the procession started up-town, the band played "Dixie" and the crowd went wild. November 14: Company E (J. L. I.) entrained for Tallahassee, having been ordered back to be mustered out. December 4: Company E (J. L. I.) mustered out at Tallahassee. Each man was given a blue satin badge with a spread-eagle in the center, and inscribed, "Mustered in May 23. To hell with Spain. First Florida Regiment, 1898. Mustered out December 4". January 27, 1899: Company F (Jacksonville Rifles) was mustered out at Huntsville, Ala. Duval County's Honor Roll Spanish-American War John J. O'Rourke of Jacksonville, and E. W. Houston of Mayport: Killed by the accidental explosion of a dynamite mine under test at the test station at St. Johns Bluff, July 10, 1898. Private Franklin B. Willard (J. L. I.) of Jacksonville, died at Camp Wheeler, Huntsville, Ala., September 20, 1898, of typhoid fever. Lieutenant J. Hugh Stephens (Rifles) of Jacksonville, died in hospital at Savannah, October 27, 1898, of typhoid fever. Private William Jones of Jacksonville (mustered out with J. L. I. and joined Co. D, 9th Illinois), died in camp near Havana January 7, 1899, of spinal meningitis. Camp Cuba Libre Ten days before war with Spain was declared C. E. Garner advanced the idea of an army camp for Jacksonville. Mayor R. D. Knight then became active in his official capacity, and
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 211 the proposition was developed through a joint mass-meeting of citizens and Board of Trade on April 29. Maj. Gen. J. F. Wade arrived on a tour of inspection for camp sites May 18, and recommended Jacksonville for a camp. On May 21, Brig. Gen. H. W. Lawton, of General Shafter's staff, came to Jacksonville to select the site. After visiting several proposed sites, one in East Springfield was selected, located between Ionia Street and the Fernandina railroad, and Third and Eighth Streets, the main factor in the selection being the transportation facilities. The Second Illinois and the First Wisconsin regiments, the first troops to arrive here, came in on the evening of May 22; the next morning the tented city of volunteers in East Springfield began to rise, and by night the white canvas gave evidence that a considerable body of troops was already in camp, the First North Carolina having arrived during the day. General Lawton was in command until succeeded by Brig. Gen. A. K. Arnold on May 28. Maj. Gen. Fitzhugh Lee arrived the next day. On June 4, General Lee designated Jacksonville as headquarters of the Seventh Army Corps and officially named the camp here "Cuba Libre". Early in July an epidemic of typhoid fever started in Camp Cuba Libre. This was in the day when the treatment of the disease and the cause of its spread were not well understood, and scores of men died before the epidemic closed. Screening was not used, and it is remembered that flies swarmed in the tents and mess places. Heavy rains in June and July kept the locality wet, as city drainage had not been extended to the camp, and there was not enough natural fall to carry the water off. A great deal of complaint arose about it and many unfavorable reports were published in the Northern papers. *An interesting feature in this connection was that the Government had general and thorough tests made for malaria and found that the camp was entirely free of it. The original camp site in East Springfield was finally abandoned. This first change was made by the Wisconsin regiment which moved to the vicinity of Fifth and Silver Streets July 29. One by one the other regiments were moved to the high ground north of the cemetery, near Phoenix Park and Cummer's mill, or Panama where Torrey's Rocky Mount-
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212 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA ain cow-boys (Second Wyoming Cavalry) had pitched their camp in the beginning. The greatest number of men here at one time was 29,000. All were white volunteers, and all infantry, except Torrey's rough riders. The first to leave Camp Cuba Libre was the First Wisconsin, which entrained for home September 6, to be mustered out. The following is a complete list of the regiments in camp here, with their commanders, together with the dates of arrival at and departure from Jacksonville: 1898 Arrival Departure May 22.... Second Illinois, Col. G. M. Moulton ............... Oct. 24 May 22.... First Wiconsin, Col. S. P. Schadel ................ Sep. 6 May 23.... First North Carolina, Col. C. F. Armfield ......... Oct. 24 May 24.... Fifteenth Iowa, Col. D. V. Jackson .............. Sep. 13 May 29 ... Fourth Illinois, Col. Casimer Andel .............. Oct. 24 June 3..... Second Virginia, Col. J. C. Baker ................ Sep. 19 June 3 ..... Second New Jersey, Col. E. W. Hine............. Sep. 22 June 6 ..... Fourth Virginia, Col. G. W. Taylor .............. Oct. 26 June 14.... Forty-Ninth Iowa, Col. W. G. Dows .............. Oct. 25 June 21 .... Second Mississippi, Col. W. A. Montgomery ...... Sep. 12 June 28 .... Second Wyoming (Cavalry), Col. Jay L. Torrey..Oct. 24t July 22.... Third Nebraska, Col. Wm. Jennings Bryan........Oct. 23 July 30.... First South Carolina, Col. J. K. Alston .......... Sep. 23 Aug. 3 .... Second Louisiana, Col. Elmer E. Wood ........... Oct. 22 Aug. .... Second Alabama, Col. J. W. Cox................Sep. 16 Aug. 7 .... Second Texas, Col. L. M. Oppenheimer .......... Sep. 20 Aug. 8 .... Ninth Illinois, Col. J. P. Campbell ................ Oct. 28 Aug. 10 ... First Texas, Col. W. H. Mabry ................. Oct. 22 Aug. 11 ... First Louisiana, Col. W. L. Stevens .............. Oct. 8t Aug. 13... First Alabama, Col. E. O. Higdon ............... Sep. 16 Aug. 13 ... One Hundred Sixty-First Ind., Col. W. T. Durbin.. Oct. 23 Aug. 15 ... Sixth Missouri, Col. Letcher Hardeman .......... Dec. 9 Aug. 19 ... Fourth Immunes, Col. James S. Pettit ............ Oct. 10 Aug. 28... First Ohio, Col. C. C. Hunt ..................... Sep. 13 Sep. 16.... Second South Carolina, Col. Wm. Jones..........Oct. 21 The departure of the First Wisconsin on September 6 was followed at irregular intervals by other regiments for mustering out, until eleven had gone, including the First Louisiana, which was mustered out at Jacksonville. On October 4, the Fourth Immunes entrained for Fernandina en route to Cuba. About this time the Government ordered the transfer of the camp from here to Savannah, and the first to leave for tliMrturd out at JaklbvUl.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 218 the new camp was a battalion of the Fourth Illinois, the balance of the regiment following a few days afterward. The Sixth Missouri was the last to leave Camp Cuba Libre, a battalion of that regiment remaining here until December 9, to guard property. The final closing of Camp Cuba Libre was on January 11, 1899, when the last soldier departed; by a strange relation of names he was Capt. R. E. Lee, of the Sixth Missouri. St. Johns River Fortifications The survey of the river made by General Wilson in March, 1898, resulted in a decision to erect emplacements for 8-inch breech-loading rifles at St. Johns Bluff, and the construction of these works was begun early in April. On April 15, the United States flag was hoisted there, to speak defiance to the Spanish, who from this same elevation made the charge upon the French fort, Caroline, 333 years before. St. Johns Bluff had now witnessed the flags of five nations flying over nearby fortifications, in turn French, Spanish, English, Spanish, Confederate, and United States-a historic spot indeed. Great difficulty was experienced in getting the big guns to the top of the bluff. A "tram road" was laid up the slope and they were pulled up by power. The works were completed about the time Cervera's fleet was destroyed, the event which made it plain that no heliograph or wig-wag message would ever be sent from the signal station on Mt. Cornelia, Fort George Island, to the battery on St. Johns Bluff that a Spanish fleet was off the bar. *The battery at St. Johns Bluff was dismantled in October, 1899, and the guns sent to Pensacola; but the concrete works and ammunition bomb-proofs still remain in almost perfect condition. The position is accessible for automobiles and is well worth a visit, not only for the historic interest, but also for the magnificent view obtained of the St. Johns River; for today, as Laudonniere said in his time, "A man may behold the meadows divided asunder into isles and islets, interlacing one another, a place so pleasant that those who are melancholic would be enforced to change their humour". In July, 1898, the channel between St. Johns Bluff and the mouth of the river was mined with dynamite mines, and navigation practically closed for a while. The test station
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214 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA where the mines were tested before placing in the river, was at the base of the bluff. A distressing accident occurred here; while undergoing test, a mine exploded, killing two men and seriously wounding an officer. The mines in the river were exploded late in September, 1898, and the channel cleared. Local Conditions During the War When General Lee designated Jacksonville as the commissary depot of the Seventh Army Corps, and issued notice that so far as practicable supplies would be purchased locally, it meant a great deal to the merchants carrying the necessary lines. The wholesale provision and hay houses reaped a harvest. During the five months the troops were here, they were paid $2,160,000 and this too in large measure was spent in Jacksonville. It has been said that some valuable business property in the down-town section represents profits derived from concessions at the camp. In a business way the camp did much for Jacksonville. Barring the wave of typhoid that swept Camp Cuba Libre, the service of the volunteers here was not an unpleasant one. The men, of course, were under military discipline, but "off duty", and that was often, they flocked to the city, bent on having a grand, good time. Unfortunately there was considerable drunkenness among the soldiers, as Jacksonville was a wide-open liquor town in those days. It was considered only a prank when one day an officer rode his horse into a saloon, up to the bar and took his drink on horseback. And another, as Mary and Martha, the police-patrol horses, galloped by in answer to a call, a squad of soldiers jumped aboard and broke "Black Maria" down. Again when a company swooped down upon a squatter commissary near the camp, and with kind consideration left the proprietor the remnants of pasteboard boxes and paper sacks. So the camp news day by day was filled with echoes such as these. It did not seem like war, but more like a large body of troops off on a frolic. This body of men was made up of the flower of young manhood of their respective States, as volunteers for war usually are. A strong attachment grew up between them and the people of Jacksonville. The residents invited them freely into their homes. During the sickness at the camp delicacies of all kinds were sent out to them; many ladies of
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 215 the city volunteered their services and assisted the Red Cross nurses in the work, while in numbers of cases convalescents were transferred to the homes here, and nursed back to health by members of the family. Lasting friendships and some happy marriages resulted. When the time came for the soldiers to go, Jacksonville saw them leave with regret. They did not forget; when the city was burned in 1901, expressions of sympathy came from all over the country from them and contributions to the relief fund too, the New Jersey regiment, as a body, contributing substantially to the fund.
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216 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1898 March 25: Stonewall Jackson Camp, Sons of Confederate Veterans, organized at preliminary meeting. Permanently organized April 1, 1898. Officers: T. T. Stockton, commandant; Jack Maxwell, first lieutenant commander; F. P. Fleming, Jr., second lieutenant commander; C. N. Welshans, adjutant. May 6: F. C. & P. through passenger train from Pensacola ran into an open switch in the terminal yards; engineer Amos Roberts was killed and fireman J. Sewall died from injuries. June 16: The Confederate monument in St. James Park (now Hemming Park) was unveiled by Miss Sarah Elizabeth Call, accompanied by a salute of thirteen guns by Wilson's Battery. This was during the Spanish-American war, and taking part in the ceremonies were regiments of both Southern and Northern men of Camp Cuba Libre. General Fitzhugh Lee was in the reviewing stand, while on the piazza of the Windsor hotel stood a grandson of General U. S. Grant. Thus both the North and the South were represented in the unveiling of this monument to the valor of the Confederate soldiers of Florida, a gift to the State by Charles C. Hemming, a former resident of Jacksonville and a private in the Jacksonville Light Infantry in the War Between the States. July 9: Clyde Line steamer Delaware was burned off Barnegat, N. J,; passengers and crew were all landed safely. December 22: The Mayport, new steamboat built to ply between Mayport and Jacksonville, caught afire at her dock in Mayport, was cut loose and drifted out to sea burning. 1899 Severe Freeze February 12-13: The afternoon and early evening of the 12th were rainy and very cold. About 9 p.m. rain changed to sleet and an hour later turned into snow. It snowed nearly all night, and by sunrise of the 13th, the ground was covered to a depth of two inches, not considering drifts, and the temperature stood around 10 degrees F. The temperature con-
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 217 1899 tinued below freezing all day of the 13th, not rising above 27 degrees; snow remained on the ground all day, and in sheltered places for several'days afterward. The vegetable crops were destroyed, fruit trees killed and some forest trees hurt beyond recovery. Widespread damage resulted to the plumbing of the city and plumbers were kept busy for two months making repairs. This was the coldest weather since the freeze of 1835. March 12: The plant of the Cummer Lumber Company northeast of the city was destroyed by fire. The loss was estimated at $253,000. April 14: Joseph Jefferson opened an engagement in Jacksonville with "What Shall We Do With Her". This was followed by the other plays that had made him famous as an actor, including "Rip Van Winkle". May 20: Cigar factory of G. H. Gato in North Springfield burned. September: Jacksonville quarantined against South Florida on account of yellow fever there; it was a modified quarantine. October 5: The first wireless message received in Florida came to the Florida Times-Union and Citizen reporting the progress of the yacht race between the Columbia and the Shamrock. The Marconi system was used. The service was satisfactory and frequent bulletins were posted from wireless reports. November 18: The wholesale grocery house of Baker & Holmes Co., and the supply house of E. O. Painter & Co., together with considerable surrounding property in the viaduct section, were burned in a fire that resulted in a property loss of $100,000. 1900 March 2: Fire destroyed McMurray & Baker's wagon factory at Main and Church Streets; three firemen injured; property loss $20,000. March 24: Admiral and Mrs. George Dewey visited Jack-
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218 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1900 sonville. They were entertained at the Windsor hotel and given a royal reception here. June 7: Lightning struck the ferryboat Commodore j"/ ~ Barney while she was on the ways in South Jacksonville undergoing repairs, and killed four negro laborers and severely shocked eleven other men. June 19-22: Last Democratic State convention was held at Jacksonville. It was a memorable one, not only because it was the last convention of the kind held in the State, the * system being changed afterward to the primary system, but also for the number of ballots necessary for a nomination for Governor. The candidates were, W. S. Jennings, Fred T. Myers, W. H. Milton, D. H. Mays and J. D. Beggs. All withdrew except Jennings and Milton, and on the 44th ballot Jennings was nominated, receiving 192 votes and Milton 90. August 21-25: Jacksonville Light Infantry and Atlanta Artillery on encampment at Pablo Beach, named "Camp Wheeler". December 27: Dr. Neal Mitchell purchased the Forsyth Street side of the Everett hotel (now the Aragon) from the Penn Mutual Life Insurance Co., for, according to the local news item, $30,000.
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MAY 3. 1901 When "Old Jacksonville" ceased and "New Jacksonville" began. From a remarkable painting by Harp. Bnd. Copyrighted The fire started at the extreme left about 12:30 p. m.; the dense smoke shows the fire burning the down-town business district six hours later.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 219 CITY DESTROYED BY FIREt (Friday, May 3, 1901) Shortly before 12:30 p.m., May 3, 1901, sparks from a nearby negro shanty ignited particles of fibre laid out to dry on the platform of the Cleaveland Fibre Factory, located in LaVilla, at Beaver and Davis Streets. Watchmen soon noticed the jets of flame and poured bucket after bucket of water on the burning mass, but other fragments of this highly inflammable material took up the flame and carried it into the factory building. The immense room was at once a roaring furnace. In the meantime an alarm had been sent in, at 12:35 p.m., but when the firemen arrived with their horse-drawn apparatus, the building was already doomed. A fresh westnorthwest wind was blowing, and when the roof of the factory fell in, particles of burning fibre were carried away and fell upon neighboring buildings, whose wooden roofs were as combustible as tinder, owing to the prolonged drought. The fire then spread from house to house, seemingly with the rapidity with which a man could walk.a Progress of the Fire By one o'clock, Hansontown, a suburb of pine shanties, northwest of the city, was all on fire, and not long afterward the flames spread eastward to Bridge (Broad) Street. The wind had gradually increased, and burning shingles were carried into the city proper; the firemen, standing under a canopy of smoke and flame, were even now powerless to cope with the conflagration. About this time telegrams were sent to St. Augustine, Savannah, Fernandina, Brunswick, and Waycross, for assistance. The Fernandina company was the first to arrive, and two hours and thirty minutes after the message was sent to Savannah most of that department was at the union station here. These companies performed valuable services.a The following account of the progress of the fire was given in the Florida Times-Union and Citizen, May 4, 1901: With incredible speed the fire spread, continuing to widen its devastating line of march. By 2:45 o'clock (p.m.) the handsome residences in the vicinity of Julia and Church Streets were blazing, the fBibliography: aFlorida Times-Union and Citizen, May 4, 5, 6. 7, 1901: b"Acres.of Ashes," by Benjamin Harrison; cFinal Reports of the Jacksonville Relief Association.
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220 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA flames in the meantime having converted into smoking piles of ashes the thickly built portion of Ashley Street, between Cedar and Hogan. The vast majority of these houses, as indeed are most of the residences in Jacksonville, were frame structures. They burned like cigar boxes, like chaff, as the thundering, mighty, lurid storm-wave of fire rolled to the east, ever to the east, and swept the area bare. At twenty minutes past 3 the Windsor Hotel was in a blaze. This great box-like building, covering the entire block bounded by Hogan, Duval, Julia, and Monroe Streets, burned with awful fury. Fortunately all the guests had warning and the building's upper floors were empty when the fire came. The burning of a hotel like the Windsor would ordinarily be regarded as a disaster in itself, but yesterday it lapsed into relative insignificance, even though alone its destruction involved a loss of $175,000. A few minutes later the St. James, which has been closed since April 19, was a mass of flames. Although partly a brick structure, it, too, burned like tinder. By this time, in the general cataclysm of destruction the loss of individual buildings was lost sight of. Isolated houses, one and two hundred yards to the eastward, were burning, and fresh nuclei of flame were being added. Still progress was steadily to the east. Twenty minutes prior to the ignition of the St. James, houses here and there east on Duval from Laura were burning. All in a moment a blinding typhoon of smoke and dust came with overwhelming power, blowing eastward, and it was necessary for those in the street to run to escape it. For a time it seemed that the fierce advance was straight to the east. House after house succumbed. No effort was made to save buildings now. Every one knew that to save any building in the track of the fury was impossible, and on and on it sped. Churches, public buildings, and shops were destroyed. At 4:30 o'clock St. John's Episcopal Church neighborhood was the center of the conflagration. It lived but a few minutes. The Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception, St. Joseph's Orphanage and the Convent soon fell prey to the devourer. Now the blaze raged along Duval and Adams, but the wind changed and the conquering blaze veered to the south. The armory was burned. In the space of a few minutes the fire crossed blocks southward, and beautiful home after home became a torch, its light lost in the monstrous mass of red illumination. The Duval Street viaduct was on fire at 5 o'clock. The vacant meadow over which it passes was covered with furniture and household goods. The fires were raging all this time in the section north of Adams and east of Laura. The Massey Business College building became ignited on Main Street, and irresistibly the flames swept toward Bay Street. Until now it was thought that Bay Street would escape, but the thought was in vain. The terror was bending in a fatal embrace to the South. The roar and the crackle resounded as the great pinions of flame moved skyward, sending showers of cinders far into the St. Johns. The Emery Auditorium was a victim. Then the Board of Trade building, At
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 221 the Seminole Club, the Metropolis publication building, the City Hall building and market, and the Hubbard building in turn were burned. In the last were great stores of dynamite, powder and ammunition, and there was explosion after explosion, adding to the dangers that surrounded the firemen on every side. Then to Bay Street the flames ate their way. The new Furchgott building was in a few minutes blazing, and the leap to the Gardner building, towering six stories high, was easy. The heat was intolerable. Building after building on the opposite side of the street was soon a mass of flames. Night had fallen. Looking east from Hogan, Bay Street from Laura and beyond, showed only the reddened scene of fire. From the windows of the Commercial Bank Building (southeast corner of Bay and Laura), the serpentine tongues were shooting. It was soon a skeleton. It seemed that there was nothing to prevent the fire's advance westward. All the afternoon, the Western Union offices, corner Laura and Bay, were crowded with people sending messages. The Western Union force stood to their posts nobly. The young ladies of the force, cool and calm, were standing to their posts, even when the building forty feet across the street was crumbling. It was feared that the flames would creep westward, burning the dockage and entire water front and the Bay Street buildings west of Laura, wiping out the buildings between. But the fire department was making a gallant stand. Engines were placed at Hogan and Bay, playing steadily on the buildings at Laura and Bay. About 7:30 o'clock the wind died. It was a blessed relief. The flames had lapped up everything in their way from the Cleaveland factory to the Duval Street viaduct, and back on Bay to Laura. The flames were under control at 8:30 p.nm The rapid on-rush of the flames caught many people in a trap at the foot of Market Street. This was called the Market Street Horror, because for a time it was thought that there was a heavy loss of life at this point. But all escaped except Henry Bounetheau and an unknown negro man., Spirit of the People During the progress of the fire a blanket of smoke and flame covered the city, almost shutting out the light of day. Persons of every class and condition struggled in the streets, but the rough were tender now and the strong supported the weak. Kindly, brave, heroic deeds were done on every hand. Fainting women and terrified children were rescued from burning buildings by men whose all, except the clothes they wore, was even then being consumed. In the storm of fire, 4
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222 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA friends and relatives became separated; some one would take a child from its mother's arms and proceed until a wave of humanity forced the two apart-then the mother's voice would add a new terror to the uproar. When the churches caught, frenzied negroes yelled, "De Lawd am angry wid us, 0, people, prepare to die!" and some would rush toward the flames, only to be caught and dragged away. Wagons piled high with household goods threaded their way through the crowds; then sparks would ignite the bedding, and a wild horse and a burning wagon would rush madly along the streets. Exhausted, one would drop a burden and another would take it up. From a flaming house furniture and bedding were taken by willing hands for some old lady, simply to gratify her, as everyone knew that wagons could not be had to move the things away. A gentleman hurrying down the street with a bundle of precious articles, overtook an aged couple pushing a sewing machine. "Madam, you must leave this and save your lives," he said. "How can I, sir", sobbed the old lady, "This machine is the only support of my poor husband". Without a word the gentleman threw away his bundle, raised the machine to his shoulder, and staggered on down the street, with the old couple at his heels. b The human tide struggled on, whither no one knew. Then came the report that a new fire center had started ahead, cutting off retreat. Caught in a fire trap, the stream of humanity turned in the direction of Springfield, or to the docks along the river. At Market Street bridge over Hogan's Creek, the jam of people made passage like that of swimming against the tide. Into this mass passed the whisper that the gas works nearby must soon explode. The struggle became fiercer, but at its fiercest a woman fell, and there was a general pause until she was lifted to her feet. By this time families in Springfield were loading their effects on wagons. Some had sent the women and children of their families to the suburbs, but now became uneasy about their fate, as the wildest rumors were afloat as to occurrences everywhere. Others wandered in front and around the flaming district seeking the lost-highly excited, but peaceable and helpful. Meanwhile, tugs and rowboats, launches and vessels of every kind were busy in removing those who had sought the wharves as a place of safety. There were thousands of narrow escapes. Sick people were carried to places of supposed
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 223 safety time after time, only to find yet another removal necessary. Men would shoulder a trunk and start down the street with it, but before going far the flames would overtake them, and they would drop the weight and run for life. Ladies left home and were hurried away by anxious friends, but the fire would catch their dresses, and urge them on with pitiless lashing. A young lady hurrying down the street had her hat roughly pulled from her head; looking around in astonishment, she was met with "Madam, excuse me, but your hat is on fire."b That night the inhabitants settled in vacant lots and under the trees of the surrounding territory. Here the families were camped, with no attempt at separation; friends were twenty feet away and mourned for one another during all those terrible hours. Some had piled furniture so as to support bedding or rugs for a canopy, and so made an excuse for a tent and a pretense of privacy. In many cases a few trunks became a little house for a baby; from other little shelters issued the moans of the feeble and sick. But there was sympathy of the sweetest and dearest kind. Someone had brought a frying pan, another a coffee pot; there was a little money with which to buy food from the stores around. One woman had left her purse and all the belongings of a comfortable home, but she had carried eight eggs in a small basket for hours. All these were shared. All shared what was the common stock, though none knew where he would find his breakfast. Penetrating these groups came those whose houses in the suburbs had been spared. "Come with me", said a lady to a friend just found; "my house is safe." "Have you room?" "I have a crowd, many of whom are strangers to me, but I shall find a place for you." All through the dreadful night parties and individuals, many of whom had likewise lost their homes, went among these groups, seeking to comfort and encourage them.b Such was the spirit that animated the people. Relief Measures The morning after the fire the citizens assembled in massmeeting in the U. S. Government building, to consider relief measures; a committee was appointed to act as a temporary relief committee. Among them were men who had gained experience in the yellow fever epidemic of 1888, and subse-
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224 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA quent measures were based largely upon this experience. At this meeting over $23,000 was pledged for relief purposes, and before noon food supplies were being issued to those in need of them. The next day, Sunday, the Jacksonville Relief Association was formally organized On May 13, an appeal for assistance was sent out, followed two days later by a statement to the American people concerning the situation here. The generosity with which its own citizens and the people of the country at large dealt with the stricken city, is indicated by the report of the Association, as follows: Cash donations, $218,489.87; from other sources, $6,423.85; total, $224,913.72. The amount of supplies received outside of the cash contributions, such as food, clothing, tools, sewing machines, etc., approximated $200,000. The various transportation companies hauled these supplies free of charge, as did the express companies also. The Western Union Telegraph Company transmitted messages to and from the Association without charge. In the distribution of supplies, eleven commissaries were established in different parts of the city, from which, in the beginning, ten to twelve thousand people were fed daily; the numbers were gradually reduced as the people became selfsustaining. The total number of rations issued was 200,242; pieces of clothing, 89,985; articles of bedding, 5,767; pairs of shoes, 2,728; sewing machines, 477, besides sundry articles of household supplies, and 172 sets of carpenters' tools. For the purpose of giving employment to the idle, and at the same time to clean up the burned district, work was given to 1,673 persons and 113 teams. These cleaned more than 22 miles of streets, filled up low and insanitary places, cut down thousands of tree trunks and telephone poles, dug up and hauled away over 3,000 stumps of trees, and removed debris from church, school, and hundreds of other lots in the burned district. The work of the sanitation committee was devoted to removing dead animals and other noxious substances, repairing broken sewers, and maintaining sanitary conditions in the various relief camps. Through the labors of the lodging committee, within a short time after the fire, every homeless person in the community was provided with a temporary, but comfortable shelter. Twelve thousand tents were sent here by the U. S. Government. This committee distributed
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MAP OF DISTRICT BURNED MAY 3, 1901 (Burned area in black) n 5°TBKX SPt'INGIELsO HiX X _ Ad = _: -r yWe C r ox r '03/075-1~ 71r "Clo.'1 *,m~-u^=S'ml[ m m **,]h//,,,W inuV ! 'C Ecid mmlmul Z m^a mi m m:. mbm .. m m, IC -Ek~ -m ¢~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~;
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 225 7,483 articles of bedding, besides articles of furniture and household utensils to those who had no means of providing these necessary articles for themselves. The transportation committee provided over 5,000 persons with transportation to all parts of the country. In most instances transportation was furnished free by the railroads and the steamboat lines. Appeals for help were referred to the emergency committee, for investigation; over 3,000 appeals were made in writing and thousands in person.c Women's Auxiliary A women's auxiliary was organized soon after the organization of the relief association, and a great deal of suffering was relieved through the efforts of these ladies. They had a bureau of information, to which all women came and made known their needs; commissaries of food and supplies; a receiving station; a dispensary, where medicines were kept; nurses were provided when necessary. They had a sewing tent, and many needy women were given employment making sheets, pillow cases and other articles, which were distributed among the fire sufferers. They also had a purchasing department, an employment bureau, and a medical aepartment.S Notes on the Fire In 8 hours the fire swept an area 5 /8 mile from north to south and 1% mile from west to east, embracing 466 acres in the oldest and most populous portion of the city. City blocks to the number of 146 were burned over, and 2,368 buildings destroyed. Every public building, except the U. S. government building, was burned, together with the public records, though those of the county judge's office in the court house went safely through the fire. Twenty-three churches and ten hotels were burned. Within the fire area only three buildings escaped-one at the northeast corner of Adams and Jefferson, another on the river front at the foot of Laura Street (the fire was checked here and the building is still standing, in the rear of the West Building, southeast corner of Laura and Bay Streets), and the third a small novelty works at Beaver and Washington
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226 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA Streets-all at widely separated points at the very edge of the fire. The monument in Hemming Park, although centered in the hottest part of the fire, went through it all unscathed. About its base had been placed pile upon pile of household goods, and when these burned, fury and heat were added to that of the surrounding burning blocks; but only the cement at the base of the monument showed a reddened glow. The bronze soldier at the top stood firm amidst the withering torrent of fire about him. The fire crossed Adams Street at only one point west of Laura Street-between Cedar and Julia, where a small building and some lumber were burned. It crossed Hogans Creek at one point, immediately east of Main Street, and burned Hammatt's wood yard. The west half of Duval Street wooden viaduct over Hogans Creek, East Jacksonville, was burned. When the wind changed and blew from the north for a short time, the swirl of heat carried over the river caused a perfect waterspout to form and travel along the water front. No damage resulted from it, though several boats narrowly escaped destruction. Some of the excited citizens shot rifles at the waterspout in an attempt to break it up. Perhaps this is the only instance of record of such a phenomenon developing from artificial heat. From a careful compilation, 9,501 people were directly involved in the fire, in business or otherwise; 8,677 resided in the burned district and were rendered temporarily homeless. It was estimated that 15,000 were present in the burned area; that only 7 lives were lost was remarkable. Lives lost: White, Henry D. Bounetheau, Mrs. Waddy Thompson, William Clark, Mrs. Solon Robinson, and Mrs. Grace Bradley; colored, March Haynes and an unknown. The city and the county jails were burned, but the prisoners were taken to a place of safety in advance of the fire. As a precautionary measure martial law was declared on May 4. Besides the three local companies, troops from Starke, Tallahassee, Gainesville, Palatka, Live Oak, St. Augustine, Lake City, Orlando, and Jasper, and for a time detachments from the U. S. revenue cutters "Forward" and "Hamilton" were on duty in the city. The troops remained on duty three weeks, and a provisional company, formed from the three local companies, until July 13.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 227 The total value of all the property destroyed by the fire was approximately $15,000,000, of which $4,000,000 was uninsured. Upon the remaining $11,000,000 there was insurance of $5,650,000. The net loss to property owners was therefore $9,350,000. It was the largest fire, both in area and property loss, ever experienced by any Southern city of the United States, record to 1924. The flare of the great conflagration was visible in Savannah, and its smoke was seen at Raleigh, N. C. Rebuilding The fire was on Friday afternoon. Saturday, the people spent in recovering from the daze of the appalling catastrophe. Those who had lost their homes set about finding shelter for their families or in locating missing members and friends. The streets were still too hot to travel, but here and there where there was no brick paving people could be seen poking into the ruins in an effort to recover some lost possession. Even now the narrow fringe of blocks south of Adams Street west of Laura was being made ready for the business of Jacksonville, with partitions and shelving going up. (Here for several months merchants, bankers, doctors, lawyers, real estate agents, contractors, saloon keepers and others of every line of business elbowed their way in and out of this congested district.) Sunday, worship was held in the parks or under the trees outside of the fire district. A shower of rain had cooled the streets somewhat and property owners were everywhere looking the situation over. Some could be seen stepping off or measuring as a preliminary thought to rebuilding. Relief measures were taking form and by Sunday night the people had pretty well collected themselves. Monday, May 6, the rebuilding of Jacksonville began. Building permit No. 1 was granted to Rudolph Grunthal for a temporary shack at the northwest corner of Main and State Streets, but a mile away, at the Merrill-Stevens plant, sills were already laid for the first structure to come under shed in the burned area. In a few days temporary shacks were springing up everywhere. The first brick for a permanent structure in the fire district was laid May 21 for a building at the corner of Adams and Bridge (Broad) Streets owned
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228 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA by Porcher L'Engle. Henceforth the rebuilding of Jacksonville was upon a scale too extended to follow in detail. By the end of the year 1901 the number of building permits for permanent structures in the burned area represented nearly one-half the number of buildings destroyed in the fire. The labor situation during this time was, as a whole, satisfactory. The building trades immediately after the fire issued notice that there would be no advance in their wage scales. At first there was some complaint that laborers were leaving their jobs and subsisting upon the relief commissaries, but the system of distribution was soon changed so as to prevent this. There was a flurry in the lumber mills caused by a demand for a 10% raise in wages. All in all, however, there was no serious set-back in the first year of Jacksonville's rebuilding; the people were not in a humor to put up with wrangling or strife, and when labor agitators appeared here in connection with a cigar strike at Tampa they were run out of Jacksonville.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 229 1901 June 17: Fire in the Foster building at the northwest corner of Bay and Clay Streets resulted in a property loss of $40,0000. July: The Clark building, better known as Castle hall, on West Forsyth Street near Laura, was sold for $25,000; and the vacant lot 107x120 at the southeast corner of Main and Forsyth for $30,000. September 9: Henry Clark's sawmill on East Bay Street was destroyed by fire; loss $45,000. September 21: Main Street car line extended to Phenix park and park opened. The name "Phenix" was suggested by Mrs. F. Q. Brown, wife of the president of the street car company, in commemoration of Jacksonville's rise from its ashes. November 6: City council passed an ordinance designed to separate white and colored passengers on street cars; contested by the negroes. November 19-24: Florida State fair held in a tent 150x300 feet; located at grounds of Jacksonville Driving Club at Hogan and Eighth Streets, Springfield. December: Full lot, 105 feet square, at the southeast corner of Hogan and Forsyth Streets (where Seminole Hotel is now), including wooden store buildings sold for $48,000. 1902 February 16: Jacksonville Lodge, Knights of Columbus, instituted with 50 members by D. J. Callahan, Territorial State Deputy of Virginia. Officers: J. D. Burbridge, grand knight; P. A. Dignan, deputy grand knight; J. F. Meade, chancellor. July 18: Carpenters' strike; demand 8-hour day and wage scale of 25 cents. A general strike in building trades in Jacksonville was called the next day, and practically all work upon construction under way was stopped. Estimated that 2,500 men were out. The strike lasted officially nearly a month, but the backbone was broken long before when
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230 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1902 many men returned to their jobs upon the 9-hour day plan, but with a slight increase in the wage scale. July 27: Pier and warehouse at the foot of Catherine Street used by the Clyde Boston Line was destroyed by fire; loss $30,000. October 1: Consolidated Naval Stores Company organized in Jacksonville with a capital of $3,000,000; W. C. Powell, president. 1903 February 11: Florida Automobile Association organized: W. W. Cummer, president; Charles A. Clark, Fred E. Gilbert, John G. Christopher, vice-presidents; F. P. Hoover, secretary; M. Hoover, treasurer. This was the first automobile club in the State and its purpose was to create interest in automobiles and good roads generally. April 17: Organization of the first Mothers' Club in relation to the schools of Jacksonville: Mrs. W. W. Cummer, president; Mrs. R. Pollard, secretary. This was the start of the Mother's Clubs that were afterward united in the federation. May 13: A week of heavy rains terminated on May 13th in a downpour that lasted several hours and covered all low places with a sheet of water. From Bridge (Broad) Street to the union depot and throughout the railroad yards was a lake, caused by the overflow of McCoys Creek. Row boats were used in that locality and a naphtha launch crossed Bay Street near the depot. Springfield park and the waterworks grounds were flooded. It was the worst flood in Jacksonville's history and damage to railroad trackage was heavy. There was no flood-wash, however, and no loss of life. September 8-16: Encampment of State troops at Camp Jennings at the old fairgrounds in Fairfield. November 2-7: Gala Week and Trades Carnival, the most elaborate carnival ever held in Jacksonville. The United States Government cooperated by sending a troop of the famous Seventh Cavalry, a battery of artillery from Fortress Monroe, and the warship "Newport", and the British sent
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 231 1903 the warship "Alert". The city was fully decorated. The stage lay between the St. Johns River and the carnival grounds on Eighth Street, and for five days the crowds surged back and forth with a spirit of fun and frolic and such good nature that during the week the police made only 75 arrests. Each night the festivities closed with a spectacular display of Pain's fireworks. There were elaborate coronation ceremonies: W. F. Coachman was King and Mrs. W. Pruden Smith Queen of the Carnival. 1904 April 29: First games of the South Atlantic Baseball League: At Macon, Macon 10, Jacksonville 2; at Augusta, Augusta 7, Columbia 8; at Savannah, Savannah 0, Charleston 3. August 30: The new Duval theatre was christened by Jacksonville Rifles' Home Minstrels. September 20: New ferryboat Duval, built at Jacksonville, made her first trip on regular run between South Jacksonville and Jacksonville. October 24-29: Trades Carnival. The carnival this year was successful, but not as elaborate as that of 1903. Rain interfered considerably with the festivities. October 25: Fire in the E. 0. Painter fertilizer plant in the viaduct section caused a damage of $30,000. 1905 March 5: A boiler explosion in the city electric light plant in Springfield at 4:45 p. m., caused the death of Fred W. Ellis, chief engineer; L. N. Cairo, a visitor, and John Davis, negro fireman at the plant. A part of the building was wrecked by the explosion. March 16: The owners of the old St. James hotel property (the entire square bounded by Duval, Church, Laura and Hogan Streets) offered to convey the property to the City of Jacksonville for the sum of $75,000 if the city would accept the same and forever maintain it as a public park to be known as St. James Park. There were no strings tied to
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282 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1905 the proposition and the city was given the privilege to pay for it in installments. The city turned the proposition down. April 3: F. E. Gilbert, driving a Victoria touring car, made the first through automobile trip from Jacksonville to the beach. He described it as a "terrible journey". July 1: "Jim Crow" law passed by the last Legislature became effective in Jacksonville. The negroes boycotted the cars and contested the law, which was later declared unconstitutional by the Supreme Court. August 22: Cashen's sawmill in East Jacksonville was destroyed by fire. October 17: City Council passed a new "Jim Crow" law, effective November 7, 1905. October 21: President Theodore Roosevelt visited Jacksonville. 1906 April 12-13: Automobile races at Atlantic Beach. Joe Lander, of Atlanta, drove a Thomas car 5 miles in 4 minutes 55 seconds and 1 mile in 57% seconds, breaking the existing world's record for stock cars. April 28: City cremator in Stewart's Addition destroyed by fire. May 7: Naval stores yards of Wernicke-Mariner Chemical Co., in the western part of the city, suffered a $65,000 fire loss. October 9: Fire gutted J. D. Horn's Department Store at 7-9 E. Bay Street; loss $35,000. December 26: Wilson Dry Goods Co., Bay and Hogan Streets, burned out with a loss of $25,000. The year was marked by general building activity in all parts of the city and suburbs. Among the larger business buildings completed were the Consolidated and the Realty Buildings. Murray Hill subdivision was put on the market.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 283 Ice Trust Cases, 1906 Charging combination in restraint of trade and extortion in the price of ice, W. J. Bryan, county solicitor, worked the case up against the local ice companies into many counts and started suit. The companies were acquitted on the first count, and there was a-mistrial on the next; but there were twenty-odd more to come. After the second trial the ice companies agreed to the demands of the attorney and dissolved the combining agreements, lowered the price of ice, offered better service and equipped their wagons with scales. These suits gained wide publicity. 1907 January 10: Ralph Owen, driving an Oldsmobile, reached Jacksonville from New York, having made the run in 15 days. First through trip by automobile. Owen was accorded a great reception by automobilists here. March 9: Dixieland Amusement Park along the riverfront of South Jacksonville opened. This was an attempt to afford a place of general amusement for the people of Jacksonville and vicinity, a place where entertainments, fairs, theatricals, athletics, and contests of every character could be held. When finally completed it was an attractive resort and was well supported for a time; but when the novelty wore off it began to go down and finally collapsed. April 18: Severest hailstorm in the history of this section swept over the vicinity at 3:45 p. m., accompanied by a terrific wind. Much damage was caused in Dixieland Amusement Park. A tug boat was sunk and its captain drowned and another man was blown from a pile-driver and drowned. No serious damage resulted in the city, except a wholesale breakage of glass by hail. The hailstones in some instances were two inches in diameter and in sheltered places remained unmelted until the next day. June: First officers of the Town of Pablo appointed by the governor: Mayor, H. M. Shockley; treasurer, J. Denham Bird; clerk, G. W. Wilkerson; city council, J. E. Dickerson, E. E. Willard, William Wilkerson, E. E. Suskind, Alexander Stevens, W. H. Shutter, C. M. Greiner, T. H. Griffith, C. H. Mann.
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234 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1907 June: First officers of Town of South Jacksonville appointed by the governor: Mayor, S. M. Scruggs; clerk and assessor, J. F. White; treasurer and collector, W. W. Swaim; marshal, Percy Bowden; council, H. B. Philips, E. C. Broward, O. H. Buchanan, W. P. Belote, E. A. Pabor. August 4: Armour fertilizer factory struck by lightning, caught afire and was destroyed. August 12: Union operators in the telegraph offices left their keys under general strike orders. December 20: The building No. 421-27 W. Forsyth Street destroyed by fire at 2 a. m.; loss $60.000. Occupied by a vehicle company and for storage purposes. Money Panic of 1907 Starting with the failure of a brokerage concern in New York on October 22, a frenzy of fear spread like wildfire over the country, and immediately banks everywhere began fighting one another to secure and hold as large a supply of currency as possible. They could not issue additional bank notes to meet the emergency because in order to do so they would have had to purchase government bonds which would have depleted their funds still further. Many of them issued substitutes for cash, such as clearing-house certificates, and it was afterward ascertained that $500,000,000 of this "panic money" was issued in the United States during the last three months of 1907. Savings banks usually availed themselves of the 60 days' notice provision. In many instances continuous holidays were declared, especially noticeable being the instance of California when October 31 to December 31 was declared a continuous holiday, in order to enable the banks to decline payment and to prevent the forcing of collections that would have driven many business houses into bankruptcy. Numbers of large business establishments in different parts of the country went into the hands of receivers, while railroads suspended improvements and threw their stocks on the market. During all of this confusion and fear it speaks well for Jacksonville's banking institutions that they issued no clearing-house certificates and did not limit withdrawals. There p ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~~~'
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 235 was no bank failure here. Considerable labor unemployment resulted from the curbing of building operations during the panic, principally in city improvements. Work on the new Seaboard shops was stopped for a while. New construction plans were temporarily abandoned. But the storm soon blew over and Jacksonville emerged without an important business failure, perhaps as few cities of its size had done, due, it was said, to some extent to the fact that the people had been made calamity proof by the trying times of 1888 and 1901, and knew how to keep their heads. 1908 Jacksonville recovered rapidly from the business depression of the preceding fall and general building operations and improvements were soon under way again, showing plainly that the progress here increasing year after year since the fire of 1901, was substantial and legitimate. The bridge over McGirts Creek to Ortega was built and soon afterward an extension of the street car line made that subdivision accessible. Street car lines in Springfield were also extended and made possible the development of the western part of that suburb. In the summer work started on Jacksonville's first ten-story building and this marked the beginning of a five-year epoch in which all of the skyscrapers forming the skyline of the city today were either completed or commenced. All in all it was the most prosperous year Jacksonville had ever experienced up to that time, notwithstanding the so-called panic of 1907. There were unusual events, plenty of them, during the year, but they were of a nature properly belonging to other chapters and are recorded there. 1909 February 24: Fire destroyed the Taylor block, south side of Forsyth Street between Main and Laura. The building was occupied by Jacksonville Electric Co.; offices, and lodge rooms. Loss including contents about $75,000. March 27-April 17: Spring meet (horse racing) at Moncrief race track.
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236 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1909 August: First pneumatic cash system in Florida installed in Cohen's department store on Bay Street. September 25: Jacksonville-Miami Steamship line opened with the departure of the steamer "Magic City". The line did not prove a success. The Magic City was sunk in a collision near Mayport February 16, 1910. September 25: Dutch S. S. Zeeburg was driven on the south jetty by high winds. Became a total wreck. October 3: First taxi service in Jacksonville was inaugurated by a company headed by J. E. T. Bowden. The fleet numbered fifteen, all Fords. A week later the cab drivers went out on strike because an employee had been discharged. October: A $40,000 fire on Bridge (Broad) Street between Forsyth and Adams. A building owned by J. E. T. Bowden was destroyed with heavy damage to the Newport hotel. November 20: First wireless commercial message received in Jacksonville; it came from the Clyde steamer Huron out at sea to the wireless station on the Aragon hotel, making reservations for passengers aboard. November 25: Race meet opened. St. James stables and other well-known horses here. December 5: Warehouse fire; occupied by West, Flynn, Harris Co., and C. W. Bartleson Co.; $50,000 damage. December 20: High pressure fire service in the business district put in operation. 1910 March 15: Fountain memorial to Mrs. B. F. Dillon unveiled in Springfield Park. The memorial was erected by the Springfield Improvement Association in appreciation of Mrs. Dillon's efforts for the civic improvement of Springfield. March 18: The launch "Dispatch", owned by Capt. Seth Perkins, came through the inland waterway from St. Augustine to the St. Johns; opening of the canal and the first boat to make the trip.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 237 1910 April 1: Boat house of the Florida Power Boat Club in Riverside destroyed by fire and along with it 13 locally owned power boats, among them several fast racing boats. July 4: When the result of the Jeffreys-Johnson prize fight in Reno became known in Jacksonville bands of negroes assembled in the western part of the city and rumors of trouble began to spread. Crowds of whites patrolled the down-town section and as might be expected there were frequent disturbances. Brickbats were used in some cases and at one time it appeared as though serious rioting could not be avoided. The saloons were ordered closed and the police took extra precautions. The event passed over without anyone being killed. July 28: Formal opening of Atlantic Boulevard, South Jacksonville to Mayport road. History of Atlantic Boulevard Soon after the Jacksonville & Atlantic railroad was completed to Pablo Beach (1884) E. F. Gilbert acquired a tract of land at the beach for development purposes. He promoted the idea of a road from South Jacksonville to Pablo, a wagon road, for this was long before the appearance of the automobile. At his own personal expense he engaged a surveyor, Francis LeBaron, to lay off a route and after severe hardships in the swamps and marshes they finally completed the survey. Mr. Gilbert now got up a petition signed by prominent people, requesting the County Commissioners to build a road using convict labor. This they finally agreed to do and the work started in September, 1892. About two-thirds of the distance was graded and the first bridge to span Pablo Creek was built when there was a change in the membership of the board and the work was soon afterward abandoned. In 1902, the question of an improved road to the beach was revived by Fred E. Gilbert, pioneer automobile dealer of Jacksonville, who took up the work started by his father. It was a long fight with much opposition from various sources and it was not until the spring of 1906, when the first automobile races were held at Atlantic Beach, that the appeal for a hard road to the beach became generally accepted as a necessity. The matter was frequently before the board of
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238 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA County Commissioners, but no agreement could be reached as to what kind of material to use. It was at this stage when the panic in the fall of 1907 spread over the country and the whole matter was temporarily dropped. Again the road question was revived soon after the first of the year (1908) and the matter definitely decided to build the road, a part of it shell and the balance brick. Actual work started in May, 1908. On December 13, 1908, though the road was only partially completed, an automobile party headed by Charles A. Clark passed over it, making the run from South Jacksonville to Pablo Beach in 1 hour and 45 minutes. These were the first automobiles to pass over the future Atlantic Boulevard. The road continued in a partially completed condition for another year and a half and it was not until July 28, 1910, that the formal opening of the highway was celebrated. A hundred or more decorated cars moved in parade through the down-town streets, then crossed over on the ferry and assembled in South Jacksonville. The christening took place at the new concrete bridge over Little Pottsburg Creek, when Miss Marie Hyde broke a bottle of champagne over the north approach and officially christened the road "Atlantic Boulevard". The assemblage then drove to the beach to witness automobile racing by local drivers. The ceremonies ended with a brilliant banquet at the Continental Hotel. This celebration marked the completion of the road from South Jacksonville to the end of the Mayport road. Some months later the boulevard was extended to Neptune and a big celebration of the event was held at Pablo. The building of Atlantic Boulevard was the beginning of highway development in Florida and it started the agitation for highways in the Southeast, for as soon as it was completed scouts were sent out to blaze the way for what then became highly advertised as a prospective Atlanta-Jacksonville highway. This agitation eventually resulted in the construction of the highways out of Jacksonville northward. The increasing travel over the road to the beach finally began to tell upon its construction and in 12 years it became a patch-work of repairs showing stretches of at least five kinds of paving material. With the growing popularity of the beaches after the Jacksonville-St. Johns River bridge was built the road became entirely inadequate.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 239 In May, 1923, a county bond issue of $2,550,000 was authorized for building highways, including the construction of a first-class concrete highway from South Jacksonville to the beach, a distance of 15.8 miles. After considerable discussion it was decided to construct two one-way roads, each 16 feet wide, and the contract therefore was awarded to C. F. Lytle in January, 1924, for $786,600. The highway is now in course of construction, being (Dec. 31, 1924,) about twothirds completed. When completed it will be a magnificent boulevard, following the route of the old road, except that some of the curves have been flattened out. Provision has been made for lighting Atlantic Boulevard all the way to the beach, and it is said that it will be one of the longest "white ways" in the world. From the fact that Atlantic Boulevard was the parent of the highways in this section and has held the interest of Jacksonville for so many years as the connecting link to its playground, its history may well be perpetuated. 1910 During the summer of 1910, burglary upon burglary was reported from every section of the city, principally from the residential districts. The police made many captures, but the burglaries continued, all chargeable to the work of a fictitious character called "Barefoot Bill". People got out their old shotguns, polished up rifles, put their pistols in shape, and for two or three months nearly every dwelling was a modified arsenal. The burglaries ceased in August, but it was never known whether the real Barefoot Bill was ever put behind the bars. October 23: Cashen's mill in East Jacksonville destroyed by fire. November 8: The vote on the adoption of a State-wide prohibition amendment resulted in Duval County: For 1,742; against 5,003. In Jacksonville the vote was: For 1,424; against 4,232. 1911 January 11: Fire gutted the warehouse of the Hubbard Hardware Company in rear of the retail store on south side
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240 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1911 of Bay Street between Main and Laura; property loss $40,000. January 22: Large warehouse fire in the wholesale section east of Broad Street viaduct; property loss estimated at $60,000. W. B. Johnson Grocery Company, E. Bean & Company, and Flynn-Harris-Bullard Company were the firms that suffered. March 31: Automobile races at Atlantic Beach. Louis Disbrow driving his Pope-Hartford "Hummer" broke four world's records for speed and won a cash prize of $1,000. His average for 300 miles was 77.08 miles an hour. April 1: Derby at Moncrief race track; final day of the annual meet and the last of professional horse-racing at Jacksonville. Effect of the Races There were three meets held here-the first in the spring of 1909, and the others in the winter and spring months of 1909-10 and 1910-11. The effect of the races on Jacksonville and its people was nowise good. The increase in crime as an attendant feature and the methods pursued by the criminals told plainly that the most dangerous criminal element of the country was attracted here. "Stool-pigeons" hovered around the local sports and professional gamblers fleeced them. "Playing the ponies" was a temptation that many residents, including women, could not resist-and they lost, numbers of them all they possessed. The moral and financial wreckage in the wake of the races was plainly evident. The races were held at a season when the hotels customarily were filled anyway and the high-class restaurants usually had all they could do. It was only a substitution of one class of visitors for another, to the detriment of Jacksonville. The money that passed from local hands to the bookmakers was bundled up and shipped by express out of Jacksonville. The local banks handled little of it. Banking records of the time indicate nothing in this respect; while the business of the banks showed a substantial increase over former years, it was not due to the races, but to the legitimate money being used in pushing Jacksonville's skyline upward.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 241 1911 The Florida Legislature in 1911 passed anti-racing laws prohibiting professional horse-racing in this State. April 19: Destructive sawmill fire in the western part of the city; Doscher-Gardner and Jacksonville Lumber companies involved. Property loss in the neighborhood of $70,000. October 26: Arrival of the Glidden automobile tourists from New York. The tour started from New York City October 14, and its progress southward was followed with wide publicity. Upon its arrival in Jacksonville a holiday was declared and a celebration took place. The tour was under the auspices of A. A. A.; it was a good-roads pathfinding affair as well as an advertising proposition. The Maxwell team won the prize, being the only team to finish the run from New York with a perfect score. Some well-known people joined the tour, among them the governor of Georgia. December 11: Fire destroyed the stables at Moncrief race track. 1912 January 9: Canning factory of C. B. Gay Company destroyed by fire; property loss about $20,000. January 25: Warehouse and foundry of McMillan Brothers and warehouse of South Atlantic Blow Pipe Company on East Bay Street burned. January to March: Smallpox scare. On January 30th, the local Board of Health issued an order for general vaccination as a means of preventing a spread of the disease and the development of a serious epidemic. It was estimated that 30,000 persons in the city and vicinity were vaccinated. To March 15th, 149 cases had been reported but no deaths. The danger was considered at an end about the middle of March. April 1: Serious fire oh W. Bay Street near Main; R. J. Riles, and the Great A. & P. Tea store suffered heavy losses, and water and smoke damaged Furchgott's men's store considerably.
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242 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1912 April 18: Woodrow Wilson, candidate for President, spoke to an immense audience that packed Duval theatre and overflowed far into the street. Street Car Strike October 28-November 19: Motormen and conductors of the Jacksonville Traction Company suddenly walked out on strike October 28th, completely tying up the street car system of Jacksonville. A feeble attempt was made to operate the cars during the day by the office force of the traction company, and likewise on the 29th. On the 30th strike-breakers were imported, whereupon rioting and violence began. Some of the strike-breakers were severely beaten and the situation became so serious that the local authorities were unable to cope with it. A request for military protection was sent to the governor and on the night of the 30th four military companies were mobilized. By the evening of November 1st, two regiments of infantry, a company of coast artillery, and a cavalry troop, 21 companies in all, practically the entire military force of the State, were on riot duty in Jacksonville. Serious rioting continued, although the cars were operated under military escort. This situation prevailed for a week or more. Everywhere, not only in the outlying sections, but in the center of the city also, acts of violence were committed, the lives of passengers on the cars endangered by missile-throwing and in several instances by shooting into the cars. Attempts were made to tear up the car tracks. On November 11th the general trades issued a call for a sympathetic strike in Jacksonville, giving five days' notice, unless the business men of the city forced the traction company to accede to the demands of the strikers, their demands being that it recognize the recently formed carmen's union. This the traction company refused to do. By this time, however, the striking employees were tiring of the strike and public sentiment had become pretty well crystallized against it. Conditions had improved decidedly by the 12th, and the last of the troops left for their homes. Striking employees were beginning to apply for reinstatement and the traction company took them back without prejudice. The strike was officially declared off by the carmen on November 19th.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 243 This was the most serious labor disturbance in Jacksonville's history. It was said that many of the older employees morally opposed the strike and condemned the violence. 1913 January: Brentwood subdivision in North Jacksonville put on the market by C. W. Bartleson, B. F. Hampton and associates; and Neptune subdivision at the beach by the Atlantic Seashore Company, G. A. Carroll, president. Murray Hill Heights brought prominently forward by the Jacksonville Development Company. Pronounced activity in all outlying subdivisions around Jacksonville and at the oceanside. January 20: Florida Cotton Oil Company suffered a fire loss amounting to $45,000. March 27: Halsema's planing mill in East Springfield destroyed by fire; loss $45,000. April 6: Life-saving Station No. 1 established at Pablo Beach by the U. S. Life-saving Corps. Service comprised 19 volunteers equipped with the surf boat "Patrol" and lifelines. Moving pictures were taken of the ceremonies. April 22: St. Johns River Terminal Company's pier at the foot of Washington Street burned; property loss $30,000. This fire brought a recommendation by Chief Haney for a fire-boat. June 13: A $20,000 fire in the Astor Building, corner Hogan and West Bay Streets. June: A city planning commission was advocated by the Jacksonville Real Estate Exchange. July 13: First trip of the ferryboat "Arlington" inaugurating the ferry service between East Jacksonville and Arlington. July 14: A $15,000 fire in the Holmes building on the west side of South Main Street. July 17: South Jacksonville voted a bond issue of $65,000 for improvements. Qualified voters at this time 96; vote for bonds: For, 62; Against, 14F
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244 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1913 August 1: Juvenile court held its first session. August: Arden subdivision put on the market by RaleyHamby Company. Advertising slogan, "In the Forest of Arden". 1914 January 17: Fire swept the Atlantic Coast Line export docks in Fairfield; loss $100,000. April: Last of the tall buildings comprising Jacksonville's present (1924) skyline was completed. Story of Jacksonville's Skyline The wonderful way that Jacksonville weathered the frenzied financial panic of 1907 had much to do with the most remarkable building period in the city's history, by attracting the attention of capital on a large scale. Prior to the panic the scars and vacant places in the down-town section had largely disappeared; but the business blocks were mostly of the three and four-story type, with several five-story, and two six-story buildings looking down upon them, while the seven-story Consolidated building on East Bay Street loomed above them all. The tower of the U. S. Government building at Hogan and Forsyth kept watch over the city towering far above everything else. There had been a rumor before the panic of a taller building than seven stories to be constructed, but it was generally considered "street talk", and it was not until June, 1908, that a skyscraper for Jacksonville became an assured fact when ground was broken for it on the north side of Forsyth Street between Main and Laura. And so the ten-story Bisbee building was the pioneer skyscraper here. As originally designed it was only 26 feet in width; but just as it was being completed and almost ready for occupancy the owner suddenly decided to double the width, tore down the east wall and increased the width of the building to 52½ feet. In the meantime two other ten-story buildings were rushing toward completion, for following closely the announcement of the Bisbee building ground was broken in August, 1908, for the Atlantic National Bank building immediately east of the U. S. Government building, and soon after that
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THE STORY OF J ILLE'S SKYLINE Jacksonville's Skyline in 1908. View from Dyal-Upchurch Bldg., S. E. corner Main and Bay. TheSkylinein194-19. Ve, omsepinasboe f®S? * R''S The Skyline in 1914-1924. Vi m s a m e p i n t a s a b v e The Skyline in 1914-1924 . View from same point as above.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 245 for another building advertised at the time as the Commercial Bank building, but which developed into the Seminole hotel at the southeast corner of Hogan and Forsyth. The Atlantic National Bank building was completed in October, 1909, and the Seminole hotel on January 1, 1910. Of the three skyscrapers, the Atlantic National Bank building was the tallest, owing to the greater height of its ceilings; still the tower of the Government building close by looked down upon it. But the Government building by this time had surrendered its guardianship over the city, for on September 18, 1909, the solid copper cross washed in pure gold was permanently placed on the steeple of the Catholic church 178½ feet above the sidewalk and ten feet higher than the pinnacle of the Government building. Jacksonville now paused in tall construction to catch its breath. In the spring of 1911, an office famine set in and to meet it the Florida Life Insurance Company broke ground in July, 1911, on the east side of Laura Street between Forsyth and Adams for the narrow eleven-story building that stands there today, now known as the Florida National Bank building. It was completed in August, 1912, and for a short time held the honor of being the tallest office building in Florida. Down in Arcadia resided a capitalist and while Jacksonville was resting after its first spurt skyward, he came here to look'the situation over. The courtesies accorded him by the business men on every side pleased him; he was impressed with the city and the splendid progress it had made, and straightway he made up his mind to convert his holdings and invest them here. And he did; he gave the city a building that pushed the skyline upward to a height unbelievable for Jacksonville. The beautiful building at the southwest corner of Forsyth and Laura Streets was what he erected. Work on the foundation for the Heard building began in October, 1911. Reinforced concrete piles, 650 of them, were sent down by a water jet to solid rock. The foundation work was slow and tedious and required four months of day and night labor to complete. Work on the superstructure commenced in February, 1912, and on June 21st the American flag was tied to the first column of the last tier of uprights and raised with a hurrah-a little ceremony customary with steel workers. In April, 1913, the Heard building was completed and occupied. It is 105x81
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246 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA feet ground dimensions, built of steel, tile and brick, fifteen stories and basement. In height, balance, and beauty of architecture it continues unsurpassed in Florida; for years it was the central figure for every advertisement of Jacksonville. The Mason hotel at the northwest corner of Bay and Julia Streets, the dominating skyscraper in the western part of the business section, occupies the site of the old Acme hotel, which was torn down to make way for its modern successor of twelve stories. The Mason was completed and thrown open to the public December 31, 1913. The last of the tall buildings contributing to the skyline of Jacksonville as we see it today, the Rhodes-Futch-Collins eleven-story building on the west side of Main Street between Monroe and Duval, was completed in April, 1914. So Jacksonville's skyscraper skyline was produced within a period of about five years. But construction here during this time was far from being confined to the tall buildings. The enormous St. James building occupying the entire block north of Hemming Park, 315x210 feet, was completed in October, 1912, and the Union Terminal building on East Union Street in June, 1913. A number of five, six and seven-story buildings were erected also, but their prominence was hid by the taller construction-Jacksonville had pointed its guns high and was shooting for elevation in the business section. *Perhaps the highest point of construction in Florida at present is the Weather Bureau arrow on top of the Heard building, 248 feet above the sidewalk. The lift-span of the Jacksonville-St. Johns River bridge reaches a height of 228 feet above the water. The remarkable building prosperity was apparent everywhere in the suburbs by the erection of hundreds of homes. This led to new subdivisions in all directions, many legitimate, some too far in advance of necessity, and a few were "wildcat". By the close of 1913 there had been issued since the fire of 1901 permits for buildings within the city limits with a total valuation of $38,872,000. Evidences of overconstruction began to appear in the spring of 1914, and Jacksonville did the sensible thing to do, she slowed down in her building activities.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 247 1914 April 9: Fire, originating in the Pablo hotel at Pablo Beach, destroyed the hotel and also eleven houses in the heart of the town. May 6-8: Twenty-fourth annual Confederate reunion held in Jacksonville. The veterans were splendidly taken care of and there was only one death among them while here. It was estimated that sixty thousand visitors, including veterans, were in the city. June 1: The so-called restricted or "red-light" district in LaVilla was closed by the mayor supported by the city council. July 1: John B. Gordon Camp, U. C. V., No. 1794, organized. M. R. Tutt, commander; F. M. Ironmonger, first lieutenant; P. M. Jamison, chaplain; W. H. Lucas, adjutant. August 26: Home Telephone Company started service. September 15: Pablo Beach voted a bond issue of $35,000 for sewerage and eleceic lights. The vote was: 68 for; 10 against. November 14: Jacksonville-Orange Park highway opened with the completion of that part from the county line along the river in front of Orange Park. This highway was built at intervals: First to the Jacksonville city limits at Donald Street; then to Ortega; and to the Duval County line in 1912. 1915 January 3: Serious fire in the six-story Dyal-Upchurch building at the southeast corner of Bay and Main Streets. The roof was burned off and the upper stories gutted. The total property loss from fire, water and smoke was in the neighborhood of $60,000. January 15: The American Trust Company was held up at 2 p. m. by bank robbers. They forced the president, F. W. Hoyt, and the office force into the vault and locked them in, and made their get-away with $1,500. One of the bank officials returning from lunch a short time afterward released the prisoners from the vault. March 11: A $25,000 fire in the Bowden building at the southwest corner of Bay and Broad Streets.
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248 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1915 April 9: Ortega sawmill and electric light plant burned; loss $25,000. May 3: Union Lumber Company plant on the south side of the river below Jacksonville burned with a loss of $25,000. May 4: Fire on the south side of Bay Street between Cedar and Clay gutted a brick building occupied by Tyler Grocery Co., Jacksonville Supply & Grocery Co., Thos. Nooney & Sons, and Atlantic & Gulf Grocery Co.. The property loss was $40,000. July 19: Arcade moving-picture theater opened. October 1: Charles E. Davis package law prohibiting the sale of liquors in less than half-pint packages went into effect. October 1: Fire, caused by the explosion of a gasoline tank, destroyed the plant of the Palmetto Machinery and Boat Works on the pier at the foot of Ocean Street. October 22: Warehouse of H. L. Sprinkle & Co., on the south side of Bay Street near Ocean, was destroyed by fire; loss $35,000. October 26: In the presence of a throng of people th. memorial to the women of the Confederacy in Dignan Park (now Confederate Park) was unveiled by Miss Jessie Partridge. The memorial is constructed of granite and bronze; it is 47 feet in height and cost $25,000, of which one-half was given by the State and the remainder by popular subscription. The figure on top represents a woman clasping a halffurled Confederate flag; and that beneath the canopy another teaching the children of the South the true story of the war. "Florida's Tribute to the Women of the Confederacy" is a masterpiece of artistic beauty and Southern sentiment. It is generally considered one of the most beautiful memorials in the South. October 27: City storeroom, building and contents, Pearl and Fifteenth Streets, destroyed by fire; loss $20,000. October 31: Ten dwellings burned in a sweeping fire at Pablo Beach.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 249 October: National rifle matches held at State Camp, Black Point. December 9: Church of the Good Shepherd (Episcopal), Oak and Gillmore Streets in Riverside, destroyed by fire. 1916 January 28: Attempt to burn the union depot apparently in tn effort to cover up a safe robbery in the baggage room; many trunks were damaged or destroyed. The fire loss was $34,000. February 17: Guests of the Windsor hotel heard the roar of the Pacific ocean over the telephone, marking the inauguration of long distance telephone service to San Francisco. February 19: The old' Atlantic hotel on the hill back of the south jetty was destroyed by fire. This hotel was built in 1874 by Capt. W. A. Jameison and in the early years was a popular seaside resort for the people of northern Florida. It was a frame building of 25 rooms. April 14: Lumber plants of Rentz Lumber Co., and the Gress Manufacturing Co., on McGirts Creek were burned; doss about $75,000. May 7: Train shed and docks of the Florida East Coast Railway Co., in South Jacksonville were burned; loss $65,000. June 8: Fire in the Stuart-Bernstein clothing store on the south side of Bay Street between Main and Laura damaged stock to the amount of $37,000. June 17: Lumber shed and four million feet of lumber were burned at Carpenter & O'Brien's mill at Eastport; loss about $70,000. June 24: Second Florida Infantry mobilized at State Camp (Black Point). The regiment remained in camp here until October 2d, when it entrained for Texas frontier service. It returned to Florida from this service March 15, 1917. July 5: Murray Hill elected its first town officials; Hugh Lauder elected mayor. August 15: A $30,000 fire on the south side of Bay Street between Cedar and Clay, in a brick block occupied by
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250 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 1916 Tyler Grocery Co., Nooney & Co., Farmers' Produce Co., and United Produce Co. September 22: Fire destroyed the plant of the Florida Cotton Oil Co., on the western edge of the city; loss $85,000. October 11-25: National rifle tournament at State Camp (Black Point). December 1: Planing mill of the Gress Manufacturing Co., on McGirts Creek opposite Ortega, burned with a loss exceeding $50,000. December 5-9: Duval County fair. Business Depression, 1914-16 The general business conditions just before the European war started in August, 1914, were such that the supply and demand of commodities contributing to the means of living were close together. The margin of profit in most lines was small and wages were likewise low, but in relation to both the purchasing power of a dollar was one hundred cents. This was the situation when Jacksonville in the spring of 1914, finding itself fully rebuilt, began to slow down in construction which resulted in considerable labor in the building trades being released and becoming idle. Then came the bursting of the bubble of paper speculation that had developed and attached itself to the legitimate activity of the rebuilding era. So there was already complaint of "hard times" in some quarters, here before the World war broke out, but it was of a nature to gradually adjust itself, had it not been for the war. The South with its large cotton crop on hand was immediately affected by the war; within a month firms and individuals everywhere were appealed to to 'buy a bale of cotton and help the farmer out", and as a further aid it was recommended that all shipments so far as possible be made in cotton sacks. Florida was doubly affected, because her chief export business-naval stores, fertilizers, and to a certain extent lumber-practically ceased, and as Jacksonville was the principal export point for these the effect here was immediate and serious, for the curbing of these industries threw many people out of work. The question of providing for the
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 251 city's unemployed became a vital one. Both City and County were doing work under bond issues, which gave employment to a fraction of the unskilled labor; and in the winter 1914-15 the Real Estate exchange started a "Build Now" movement to help the idle in the building trades. Several other plans were devised for the same purpose; all of them were helpful, but the situation was too broad in scope to be materially relieved by sporadic local efforts. The year 1915 was a hard one for everybody-business man, property owner, and wage-earner. Money was tight; those that had it did not turn it loose, and those that did not have it lived largely on credit. This was a condition that drove many firms out of business. Two local banking institutions closed their doors. Taxes and interest on mortgages remained unpaid-on July 1st less than 50% of the city budget for the preceding year had been collected. It was the same with the county, or worse, for county affairs were in such a state at the end of the year that it was necessary to float a bond issue of $299,000 to meet outstanding indebtedness. It was even seriously suggested that a receiver be appointed for Duval County. During the summer and fall of that year it was estimated by rental agents that one-third of the stores, one-half of the dwelling houses, and 60% of the office space in Jacksonville were vacant, although rents had been greatly reduced. In some cases owners offered their property practically without rent to desirable tenants to prevent deterioration. The North at this time was enjoying an era of extravagant prosperity, having converted its factories, mills and industries to war-time production; large salaries and high wages were offered both skilled and unskilled labor and the employed as well as the unemployed, farm labor and city labor, were drawn out of the South by this magnet. In a way it helped the unemployment situation here, and contributed to the vacancies referred to above. All of this was not purely a local condition, however; it was the general condition of most of the South, through which Jacksonville fought its way. While it cannot be said that local business conditions showed a marked improvement during the winter 1915-16, still they were certainly no worse than they had been and the tendency was better. Several moving picture studios had located in Jacksonville and others were making inquiries
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252 HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA with a view to moving here; this was pointed to as a favorable sign for an upward trend of business. *Some years later the moving picture industry did reach considerable proportions in Jacksonville and plans were drawn for quite an art city near Camp Johnston; but public sentiment turned against the business and those that were here picked up and moved away. The business of the port increased considerably, especially as an oil terminal. Nevertheless properties continued vacant and taxes were a burden. Labor recruiting agents persisted in their activities to drain the South of its remaining labor content. In the fall of 1916 the increasing cost of living became the topic of public discussion in Jacksonville. Mass-meetings were held to devise means for combatting it and general boycotts were suggested. The charge against merchants of profiteering was often heard, but in most cases the charge was unjust, for their troubles were as great as others and: their struggles just as hard. The real causes of the burden were two-fold. By this time the food stocks of Europe had become exhausted as a result of the war and America, hardly raising enough to supply its own needs, was called upon to feed the Allies, who offered high prices for foodstuffs. This, of course, influenced prices at home, white flour being the principal item affected. Decreased incomes in the South magnified the rise in prices beyond the actual increase and the merchant got the blame. *The decade beginning in 1914 furnishes a valuable record for the study of business extremes, and indicates that the safest and happiest position of the business pendulum is neither at the point of lowest margin of profit nor at that of big profits and high wages, but swings in a decidedly smaller arc between the two. 1917 February 12: University club formally organized: Cecil Willcox, president; M. H. Long and Fons A. Hathaway, vicepresidents; H. Ulmer, secretary; F. C. Reese, treasurer. February 18: Plant of the Gibbs Gas Engine Co., on the South Jacksonville waterfront, was burned with a loss of $30,000.
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HISTORY OF JACKSONVILLE, FLORIDA 253 1917 February 28: Duval County Federation of Women's Clubs was organized. April 8: Fire of unkn |